Conference vmsnet::car$note:carbuffs

Has anyone heard of a rivit-nut installation tool ??

I bought steps for my Jeep and I need to install these rivit nuts into
the frame to bolt the steps to. You push them into the hole and with
this tool you collapse them so they pinch the frame. Well they give you
a nut and bolt assembly for "manual" installation but this method does
not work !

Anyone have any ideas where I can rent or borrow one ???

Randy

Most body shops have them.  That's what you need to install a factory roof 
rack on a replacement roof or to install the spoiler on the back of a 
station wagon.

Does anyone in the Nashua area have some machinists' dye I can borrow?  This is
the dark blue stuff you paint on parts and then assemble them to see where
contact is being made. I need to see where the axle is rubbing the bearing cup
on a bicycle I am restoring. 

Thanks,
Jim 

	Anyone know any places in the GMA/Nashua area to purchase used
air tools?

	Also, while we are on the subject what are the specs/brand names
to look for or watch out for in purchasing air tools?

thanks,

Rick

    How much air pressure do you have? 90psi or 175psi
    
    Many cheaper tools will run quite nicely on the high pressure of a 2
    stage 5hp or larger compressor. I bought a cheap $75 3/4 drive impact
    wrench for removing the Bud lugnuts on my trucks. At 90psi it just
    wimpers. For the few times a year when I need to use it, I could not
    justify an expensive good one ~ $500
    
    
    Steve

    I've acquired sets of Proto combination wrenches, Klein combination
    wrenches, Klein 3/8" socket set, Klein nutdrivers, Klein screwdrivers, etc.
    
    I've read the previous replies about names like SK, Snap-On, etc., but
    I didn't see either Proto or Klein mentioned.  Anybody have an opinion
    on their quality?  I'd guess they are pretty high in quality, but
    that is just a guess on my part.
    
    				-John

    
       Klein and Proto are Industrial tool jobbers.  You typically see
    those tool names inside factories and they also supply aircraft
    mechanics. They also make some really strange tools you will only see
    for aircraft or locomotive maintenence.
    
    -john

    Back to air compressors.  I just picked a compressor and have some
    questions on distribution.  I plan on running  hard line around my
    shop.  Most of my air tools don't need a lot of air and would do fine on
    a 1/2" line.  However I do plan on using it for sandblasting.  From what
    I hear, the more volume, the better off you are when blasting.  The pipe
    coming from the tank is 3/4".  I would like to put a filter and regulator
    on the main pipe to prevent as much moisture as possible from getting to
    the tools and the sand.  Prices for regulators and filters with 3/4"
    openings are twice that of ones with 1/2" openings.  What kind of pressure
    drop can I expect if I use 1/2" hard lines for everything?  The compressor
    is rated at 17.9 cfm at 100 psi and has an 80 gallon tank.  The shop that
    I bought this from at auction used 3/4" steel pipe for all distribution.

    My second question is about what type of line to use.  This has been
    discussed a lot in this file, but perhaps opinions have changed.  The
    three possibilities as I see it are PVC (schedule 80), copper water pipe
    with soldered joints, and threaded steel.  Although everyone seems to
    think the first two options are fine, I am uncomfortable with the fact
    that the directions that come with the compressor and other warnings that
    come with PVC and copper piping explicitly say that they should not be
    used for pressurized air lines and are not safe.  In particular there
    were some discussions in rec.crafts.metalworking a while ago about the
    dangers of using PVC as distribution piping because it is not meant for
    that application and the failure mode is to explode, sending shrapnel all
    over the place.  There was even one contribution that claims to have
    been in the room when a PVC air distribution line failed.  However the
    added cost and work associated with renting a pipe threader and buying
    all of the steel line doesn't appeal to me either.  Random educated
    opinions appreciated.

    Cheers,
    --Dave

    I have 3/4 inc copper in my basement with my 17+cfm 175 psi compressor.
    I plan to use 3/4 in copper in the new barn as I go along. I am also
    debating the issues around sandblasting. I have a 210 cfm (well when it
    was new) gasoline driven compressor and was thinking that if I wanted
    to use that, just get a long chunk of the hose that it came with 1" ID
    I think and leave the tools/spraying system with the 5 hp AC job with
    3/4 copper.
    
    Steve

I used to have 1/2" PVC all around the garage.  When we expanded the garage I
took out the PVC out and installed 1/2" threaded pipe.  I bought the pipe in
pre-cut/pre-threaded lengths and a variety of connectors.  If you have some
flexibility in where you run the lines, you can buy different lengths and
plan your layout that way.

I can't comment on the flow of 1/2" vs 3/4", but if you drop from the main
supply line (1/2" or 3/4") down to a normal rubber air line to the sand
blaster, does it matter what size the supply line is?

Dave

    
       Pipe size only matters where air VOLUME is concerned. The pressure
    will stay the same in a parallel circuit. (-;
    
        Also...there is more restriction to flow in one 90 degree elbow
    than there is in a 4 foot section of straight pipe. Elbows Kill air
    volume to devices like air motors.
    
    -john

    Some good points.  I'm going to take a look at some blasting setups to
    see what they use for a hose.  If it is 1/2" or less, I guess using 1/2"
    distribution pipes would be fine.  I do know they like high volume.
    This will pretty much always be a single user system.  I guess I'll
    check the price difference when I go to install it to see if it is too
    much more to put in iron pipe over copper.  I'm also going to check some
    used tool dealers to see if I can can get a 3/4" regulator and filter 
    combo for cheap money.  If that works out, I suppose there is no reason 
    not to go with 3/4" lines.

    Thanks,
    --Dave

    Compressor help!
    
    My EMGLO compressor has started making a popping sound that it never
    used to make before.  It seems to happen when the compressor is at
    max PSI, and I am not using any attached tool.  While I use a tool
    it is ok.  When I stop, the loud popping noise starts.
    
    The compressor has a belt driven pump (oil type) from an electric
    motor.  In the past it would get up to max PSI, then the pump would
    stop pumping, even though the electric motor and belt are still
    spinning.  I am not sure if it is still functioning this way.  If it
    is not, perhaps the popping noise is excess PSI being blown off
    somehow.  I will check this weekend to verify.  If anyone can tell me
    how this feature works, perhaps I can check those components for any
    problems.
    
    In the meantime, any advice you may have with this type of problem
    is greatly appreciated, as always...
    
    Thanks, Mark