Conference vmsnet::car$note:carbuffs

    What is the recommended procedure for seperating panel weld....I need
    to replace the rear panel (below trunk lide and between quarter panels)
    The original rear panel and quarter panels are joined at a 1/2" flange
    with repeated spot welds. 
    
    I concerned that if I try to use an air chisel that I might distort the
    good quarter panels.
    
    Also, once I do fit and weld the new rear panel in place (mig/spot
    weld), how do I ensure a waterprrof seam. I've seen some seam sealer
    stuff in the Eastwood catalogue...is this the correct way to seal a 
    body seam?

    Eastwood (I think) sells a special drill for breaking spot welds.
    You could also try grinding them off if you can get at them.
    A sharp wood chisel works well some times (use goggles and have a grinder
    handy)
    
    Steve

	As -1 mentioned, they make a special drill bit (it has a spring loaded
 center, and looks like a 3/8" hole saw). You drill out the spot weld, and
 once the panel is off, you grind off the left over.... You install the
 new panel with a Mig welder to minimize the heat distortion.....

	To seal, auto body/paint store have the seam sealer (approx. $20.00
 for the can)...... It seems that all Fords leak at the rear quarter panel
 seams by the rear window ;-(........

	Norm

    
        Because a factory seam cannot be duplicated, Field replacements
    of welded body parts are done with a butt-weld. That way, no moisture
    can ever make its way through a imperfect lap seam. A bad seam will
    show rust-through in less than a year in very humid/salt use areas
    of the country. Consult a well established body repair shop and see if
    they will let you watch a welded panel being replaced.
    
    -john

    My brother does autobody work and when he "clips" a car he doesn't use
    any factory seams. He uses them as references and cuts next to them.
    He then MIG welds the bone yard "clip" back on. A little bondo, prep
    and paint.
    
    Renis

	I agree with the last two, that most bone yard clips are mig welded
 back on not at the factory seam, but below on the panel where a body line
 will hide the repair. But when replacing a rear quarter with a factory
 replacement panel, they will re-weld it on at the factory seam......

	A friend who is a Auto Body instructor at a local school says that
 there is less chances of heat distortion if welded at the seams..... Again,
 YMMV if not done correctly....

	Norm

I have a friend who is considering selling a 1996 Accord EX.  The car has a 2
inch diameter dent just below the rear license plate on a piece that is painted
the exterior color of the car.  I looked at it and the piece can be unbolted
from the trunklid and a new piece painted and reinstalled.  Should I advise
my friend to have the work done before putting it up for sale or sell it as
is and deduct for the dent?  Other than the dent, this is car is like new
with a little over 10K on the odometer.

Jim

    
    I vote to have it repaired. One less thing for the new owner to worry
    about. Your friend can even save the old part just in case any potential
    buyers ask about previous dents or damage. I suspect the car is in mint
    shape otherwise...why detract from that?
    
     Besides, if the new owner is getting a loan, surely the bank won't be
    dishing out "extra" money to repair a dent. Max. loan is usually the sale
    price of the car, so some buyers would need to pay for the fix out of
    their pocket (and deal with the inconvenience of not having their "new"
    car for a couple of days or so.) Also insurance companies are bound to 
    depreciate the car if they do an insurance inspection (like they do in
    MASS when getting Comprehensive (and/or Collision?) coverage.)
    
    /Charlie
                                       

>	I agree with the last two, that most bone yard clips are mig welded
> back on not at the factory seam, but below on the panel where a body line
> will hide the repair. But when replacing a rear quarter with a factory
> replacement panel, they will re-weld it on at the factory seam......

OEM replacement panels are the same as production line panels.  Often 
they're slightly irregular panels that need a bit of hand fitting (won't 
fit if they're robot-installed but work just fine with some adjustment)

Cut rate shops will cut the panel up and MIG a portion of the original panel 
and fill the distortion with bondo.

Quality shops will remove the spot welds and re-weld the panel at the 
original spot welds.....that's the way the door pillar and right quarter 
were done on my '79 Volare when my mother drove it out in front of the '89 
Nissan.


...totaled the Nissan, slightly dented the Volare.