Conference terri::cars_uk

    
    With the way the wind whips at you in the 23 looking cool is
    unavoidable!
    
    More like damned freezing!
    
    Mark

    
    What sort of effect has the salt had on the alu? Cleaning it with a
    nylon scourer and Jif bath cleaner seems a bit agressive! Does it have
    a matt or mirror finish to the alu? (I meant originally, not after the
    salt has got to it!). Why use Autosolv afterwards, and what sort of
    'finishing cream'?
    
    There is an article in Decembers 'Low Flying', the 7 owners rag, about
    using the 7 in the winter. It suggests:
    
    a) don't do it
    b) don't have bare aluminium
    c) if none of the above, coat the car in Vaseline...
    
    I can just imagine going into the chemist and asking for 47 jars of
    vaseline please!!!
    

Talking of spray oils for keeping the muck off, for locks and the like
(as well as large bare metal surfaces) I use PJ-1.

It's primarily a motorcycle chain lubricant and is the same viscosity as,
say, WD40. However, after about a minute of contact with air, it becomes
much thicker and doesn't wipe off.

You could wipe a reasonably thick coat of this on and it won't even wash off !

Come the summer, Jizer or the like will fetch it all off again. An added bonus
is that it doesn't 'fling off' but I guess as your car isn't chain drive that 
wont be of much use :-)

Ross

    
>>    I wonder who tightened it up before the fire...
    
    shouldn't that read -
    
    I wonder who DIDN'T tighten it up before the fire...
    

    ...and I wonder who will certainly tighten it, and check it, and
    re-check it, next time :-)

    
    It's not likely to be at the get together tomorrow night then?

    Mark
    

    
    If you don't mind a ride try MOTEST at the bottom of Egham hill.
    
    They're open Saturdays and Sundays and don't charge for a retest,
    so if they fail you, you can go away and do the work and bring the
    car back (in 14 days or less) and they won't charge for retesting
    it (better than paying twice!).
    
    They also allow you to watch their operatives doing the test (which
    I think is a legal requirement, but not all garages do) and if you
    tell them about the engine they'll probably let you start it up
    and stop it yourself.
    
    Mark
    
    

Yes, I know that OneStop (Basingstoke Rd, Reading) is a dirty word, but that's
where I have the Marlin MOT'd.  You can book a time with them and stay around
whilst the car is done.  Each time it's been done, they've let me sit in the
car for the brake tests etc. 'cos "It's obviously a bit special...".  The only
problem that I can see with OneStop is getting the 23 onto the ramp.

    Try this one,
    There is a freindly local garage, near me, I have seen customers sit in
    their cars to do the MOT tests, although I left my Beetle there whilst
    I went to work for welding to be done, I mentioned that if he could
    check it over quickly to see if anything else was needed for the M.O.T.
    then that would be good. I came back that day expecting the worst( you
    know.. �250 + parts + vat sir!) but I was confronted with a new MOT
    certificate, and a bill for �65 welding and MOT, apparently it took
    4hrs of labour to do it !
    
    Not bad eh...!
    The garage is in a little place called Netheravon, about 45mins drive
    from basingstoke, the garage is called "Rod Smith, The Garage"
    and is the only one in Netheravon.
    
    Carl
    

    
    Re .87
    
    Sack the mechanic!
    
    Mark

    
    You mean the one who nearly forgot to re-bleed the rear brakes before
    the test run? :-)

    I note from the current "Auto Classics" that a Series 1 Landie
    with 2800 miles on the clock is available.
    
    Its fitted up as a fire-tender ...
    
    Mike Day
    

    
    That sounds a good vehicle to add to the collection - what about it
    then, Derek?
    
    Elaine :-)

    
    I'm missing something. Why is Number 23 in dock? Have you bent it?
    
    Number 6
    

    
    Singed more like it! :^)
    
    Mark

    
    It recovered from the roasting, and did a couple of test runs,
    but now has a wobbely starter motor, and due to lack of electricity over
    the weekend, not a lot of progress was made!
    
    (All efforts were in the direction of the design and manufacture of
    a de-humidifier!)
                                                                       
    Elaine

   > I'm going to try and get some track time some time march-april 
   > at Castle Combe. 
    
    Be interested to be there to see that if you're prepared to advertise
    the when. 
    
    I've heard so much about this b****y car I wanna see it do its thing in
    anger 
    
    :-)
    
    Rich
    

    
    You'll miss the 25th March round at Snetterton!
    
    Imagine if Ayrton Senna didn't start racing until half way through
    the season! :^)
    
    Did you know that 85 different people scored points in Group K last
    year? It sounds as if you'd have to try NOT to! 
    
    Good luck and let us know when you're starting and we'll come along
    and cheer!
    
    Mark

My friend has received his Sylva Clubman and hopes to have it racing in May,
so look out for some competition.  He'll be in the 1600cc unrestricted class...

Dave

    RE:: The alocated number 42
    
    Is  this not the answer to the ultimate question?
    The one that deep thought pondered for yonks?
    
    Perhaps you ought to call the car:
    
    " The meaning of life, the universe, and everything "
    
    I live about 15 mins away from Thruxton, so If you ever race the 23
    there, or wherever, I would love to see the result of all this elbow
    grease is!
    
    Carl.
    (ps. if you need info' on track conditions there, ie, wet, dry, etc, I
    drive past it every day!)

    
    Had any practice? I was supposed to be doing Pembrey on the 20th,
    but the circuit changed hands and we lost the booking... Not to
    worry though - still got Oulton, Knockhill, Cadwell and Brunters.
                        
    Bi||.

re: .107

    Bi||, when will you be at Oulton ??? I may come along for a look-see ...

   Mark

    
    On the afternoon of Friday 20th - stay tuned for further announcements!
    
    Bi||.

    
    ...not to mention the 'spare' hoses/joints etc all over the dining 
    table and the living room floor and in the attic........

    
    Does the 23 have a roll over cage or bar? If so check that the base
    plates for the main hoop have a 3 bolt fixing. The replacement bar for
    the 7 for '90 has 3 bolts, and Eric-the-7-builder confirmed that a
    friend of his had to put 3 bolts through the  base plates in his racing
    Midget, despite being welded in place.
    
    I'll be going to Oulton to watch, if the 23 is competing.
    
    Best of luck, David.
    

    
    The approved bar for the 7 for '90 is the same. Three bolt base plates,
    two support struts from the top of the hoop to the rear of the car,
    each with a single bolt through them (12mm). The cross brace is welded
    across the diagonal of the hoop. There is a forward strut from the top
    of the hoop to the chassis rail in the passenger footwell (= no
    pasenger). Therefore looks like the roll bar on 42 should be legal too.

    
    If you've got the copy of Autosport, could you write up the incident?
    Whose Seven was it?
    
    Bi||.

    On the race kit front, I have just finished shelling out pots for
    overalls , gloves etc. I noticed that you missed the Helmet,was that
    diliberate or did you just forget. I went through this process not 
    long ago and found that helmet prices are almost what the vendor can 
    get away with. If you are still pondering on the helmet I found a motor
    cycle dealer selling helmets considerably cheaper than a racing outlet.
    I ended up buying a Bell M2 , its both BS6658 type A and  Snell. In 
    Ripspeed ( nominally ripoff ) it was #160, Finished paying #129 for
    the exactly the same thing with a very recent manufacture date form
    First Line Motorcycles in Arnos Grove, London.  The rest of the kit I
    got a reasonable deal from Demon Tweeks, It still cost pots. The real
    pain was with gloves, I finished up buying Sparco Profi , the best
    fitting but more than that had good palm padding. I was getting sore
    hands using unpadded Sparco Top.  If anyone is intrested in the phone
    number or address for first Line mail me and I'll sort it out. Thier
    helmet selection is fairly extensive including BELL,SHOEI,AGV,SIMPSON.
    
    
    Good Racing
    
    Garry
    

    Yeh , I would aggree that there is no point in paying more that is
    really nessesary. I fail to see the point in spending pots on
    nomex lined helmets like the xfm-1 bell or the grv4 shoei. With the M2
    you sure don't get any extras. The only reason I went to that extent is
    that in rainy conditions I have had problems with the visor misting
    even with anti misting gunge on it, the M2 has a large  air
    vent in the chin that comes straight through without being vented all
    round the helmet. I hate trying drive through fog. If anybody knows of
    anything better that Holts anti-mist or crystal clear THAT WORKS, I
    would be only too pleased to hear.
    
    
    Garry

    One of the oldest (and still then best in my book) anti-fogging trick
    is to smear a bt of washing up liquid on the inside and wipe until
    clear.  It works well, but needs doing frequently - but above all it is
    CHEAP (in comparison to a some of the 'special' liquids which don't
    seem to do the job as well either).
    
    Rob
    

    Rob,
    
    	Gave the old washing up liquid a whirl. I was out running in /testing/
    	doing some lap timing on saturday . The weather was perfect , set
        some quick times ( I still ache today ) but not a hint of misting.
    	I tend to get really hot under those conditions and just the heat
    	generated inside the helmet is enough to start the visor misting.
    	I'll save my money and go and buy a bottle of squeeze of something.
    
    
    	For the benefit of those who don't know me I race a 100cc National
        Kart , Not quite a noble/lotus 23 but , it goes like the wind. The
    	fastest lap I did saturday was 38.15 sec (with slicks past thier
        best) round a track around the mile lenght.  I'll leave others to
        work the average speed,but without expensive timing equipment  I
    	reconed to be doing 100 coming off the main straight.
    
    
    
    
    	Garry

    
    
    	Averaging 90mph, with a top speed of 100mph? Sounds like a fairly
    	bland circuit...
    
    	Bill

    I think I'm correct in saying that the lap record for Crystal Palace
    when it was still raced on was set by a 100 National. The main reason
    that a 100 national kart is so fast is that it has no gearbox so no
    time is wasted changing up and down the box through a tight twisty
    circuit. Also with very responsive steering you can litrally flick the
    backend round without really loosing time or speed. The net result is
    alarming top speeds with fully tuned engines and a 0-60 in the bat of
    an eyelid ,2 - 3  seconds wouldn't be unreasonable. All at about 2"
    above the track surface.
    
    
    
    Garry
    
    

    re: .140
    
    Derek-
    
    Why did you change one of the brake masters for a 'static' bias setting
    instead of using an adjustable 'bias bar' to allow the front/rear brake
    bias to be changed 'dynamically' (for the track and conditions) ?
    
    Just wondering....
    
    	-Barry-
    

    
    Good luck on Sunday Derek!
    
    If I sober up by then I'll think of you!
    
    Mark

    >> CHEST::SAXBY
    
    Now there's a name from the past!
    
    Have you signed in?
    
    Ian.

    
    > unintentional selection of reverse 
                                     
    ??????
    
    Did you do this ?

For interest, here's what happens when you change into reverse while moving
rapidly forwards...

A friend of a friend worked in the motor industry, and one day had a car on its
way to the scrapyard.  Mechanically it was fine, so he thought he'd try out the
above.

In the event, it was rather unspectacular.  No engine leaping through the bonnet
or back axles being ripped off.  Just a very unpleasant grinding noise followed
by reverse doing a good impression of neutral.

On dismantling the gearbox, he found the only damage was a reverse gear neatly
stripped of its teeth.

Or so I'm told...

Scott

    
>>shooting down a very bumpy road at night  with your bum on the floor
>>with front end skipping around is quite interesting.
    
    You can say that again!
    
    Hopefully, this weekend we'll get my seat made up, so I can drive it
    and get my own back! 

    
    If anyone is interesteed the 23 is on it's trailer in DEC Park car park
    until about 4.00pm this afternoon, when it's off to Snetterton!
    
    It will also give some idea of the amount of space required to carry
    round a spare set of tyres, full toolset and camping gear!
    
    If anyone wants a 'guided tour' giveme a 'phone 830-6920
    
    

    
    Poor Elaine,
    
    Another Bank Holiday weekend spent in Burghfield Common! :^)
    
    Mark

    
    And another exciting days entertainment for the neighbours.
    

    Derek-
    
    WHY are you worrying about cooling the rear brakes?  Fronts should be
    doing most of the work.  Have seen very few (in fact, can't remember
    any) race cars (worked on- Formula Ford, Sports 2000, IMSA GTU, Camel
    Lights, etc.) that worried about cooling rears.  
    
    What is the 'indicator' that the rears need better cooling?
    
    BTW- I'm not doubting, just asking.
    
    	-Barry-
    

I've only got bits from six types of car so far, with two more to come; I'll
have to find a few more.  But I will have some genuine MGA bits, just to give
the car some culture... (OK, it's only a couple of chrome escutcheons...)

Scott

    But don't forget to put the rear tyres on the front. Failure to carry
    out this simple task could invalidate your warranty and increase
    understeer.
    
    	Dick

    
    What comments could anyone make about oil changes and the 23? :^)
    
    How did the racing go at Pembray (As the announcers insist on calling
    Pembrey!)? Did you get the all important 6th signature?
    
    Mark
    
    

    
    Yes, we got it, but not the best day's racing we've had - Derek will
    probably get around to a writeup  in the 'racing' note

    Your fuel tank - I don't suppose that 'baffling' would help, would it ?
    
    I expect it would be ineffective (compared to oil sump baffles) as
    petrol is not bery viscous.  If it did work, would it then make the
    problem worse, by preventing petrol returning to the pickup area ?
    
    What about 'foam-filled' tanks, do they help ?  Can you modify your
    existing tank easily (to become foam-filled) ?
    
    A possible remedy would be to have a 'clunker' attached to your
    pickup pipe inside the tank.  These are used in some radio-controlled
    model applications, but I am not sure it would be suitable.
    
    This works by having a flexible pipe from the end of the pickup, the
    end of which is weighted.  As a result, it is 'thrown' around the tank
    in the same way as the petrol, so it should be submerged most of the time.
    
    Of course, in modelling, the fuel tanks are smaller, so movement is less.
    It is for this reason that I doubt it would work in your situation, but
    at least it is an idea...
    
    
    Further possibility - two fuel pumps, two pickup pipes, mounted in
    opposite corners/ends of the tank.  Could you then 'tee' the outlets
    of the fuel pumps ?  At least you would get the extra feature of a
    backup if the pump packs up - I see you buy them in pairs anyway !
    
    Do you have a pressure regulator between the pump and the carbs ?
    I wondered if this would provide enough of a reservoir to avoid
    the problem, in a similar way to your idea of a separate 'small' tank.
    
    
    Oh well, perhaps I had better shut up now.
    
    John

    
    A BMW part!!!!
    
    Derek, this is bound to ruin the handling and slow the car down!
    
    Mark

Wassa banjo bolt?

Scott

    re:  .185
    
    	"Small SOUTH american guitar........."
               ^^^^^
    
    Y'all had better meant Southern part of the Yoonited States of 'Merica,
    boy, or us good_ol_boys gonna get ya, like they did in that there
    movie, Deliverance with MR. Bert Reynolds.  Git thar in time for the
    start of the movie and y'all will see an hear some real banjo pickin'
    and grinnin'.
    
    	-Barry_who_couldn't_resist-
    

    
    What about the new seat lining, for the No. 2 driver? :-)

Why not fit adjustable pedals, � la Marcos.  Then Elaine can drive it without
all the hassle of needing an extra seat ;-)

The pedalbox on the Westfield is adjustable......the problem is that it takes 
two hours to effect the adjustment. This does make it somewhat impractical!

Like Derek, I've gone for changing the seats. This only takes 30 seconds or so.

Dick

    Why, Dick, does Elaine drive the Westfield, too?

The Moss has adjustable pedals: I didn't like the original shape of the cortina
pedals (too long), so cut 4" out and re-welded them.  They're now at the wrong
angle, so I've got to cut and re-weld them again ;-)

Scott

My formula ford has -

	adjustable pedals (takes an hour or so to move after removing
			most of the bodywork)

	adjustable seat	  (three positions. less than a minute to move)
			(you should also readjust the anit-submarine
			belt after doing this though)

	adjustable steering wheel position - up/down and forward/back
			  (remove half of the bodywork for forward/back)

	adjustable shift lever position
			  (haven't done this yet but must do it)

And I still can't get it to fit the way I want!!!!

I don't know if I dare go home tonight - anyone looking for a lodger?

    Yes - if you left me have a go on your new bike!
    
    Rob

�    that the fuel tank was damaged. It was obviously pushed up very hard by
    
    Well, you did mention a few problems with this tank.
    
    Perhaps you might be able to improve things now ?
    
    J.R.

	Elaine, compared to what your hubby has written about the calamities
	he's had, this is minor!


	You can lodge with us if you can fix an overheating problem for me!!!!

	You can even play with our R-reg landrover that keeps blowing the fuse
	for the dash-board light!

	Heather

    Wots a "swirl-pot"?

    Thanks for the explanation, Derek.
    
    Give me a few more days and I'll think of another dumb question to
    ask.......

I was asking about anti-roll bars some time ago.  I was just curious as to how
you made them adjustable, but having seen your photos I now know.

I don't think I need the complexity of an adjustable one; I just need somewhere
to mount the existing 'tina one (so far the only suitable place is through the
middle of the sump!).

I'll wait and see what the handling's like before worrying about fitting it
though...

Scott

�I don't think I need the complexity of an adjustable one; I just need somewhere
�to mount the existing 'tina one (so far the only suitable place is through the
�middle of the sump!).
    
    I assume you're thinking is not too fixed on this one.
    
    Normal installation of anti-roll bars seems to be with ends in a
    'trailing' direction, but there is no reason they cannot be
    fitted in a 'leading' direction.
    
    Maybe that would allow the bar to pass through some other
    structure, such as the bell-housing !!! ;-)
    
    Seriously though, I have heard of a.r.b.'s being reversed so
    that they are not affected in a front-end shunt (on rally cars).
    Main proviso would be whether the bar is used for suspension
    location or not, when compression forces would differ.
    
    J.R.

The cortina front arb is not part of the suspension geometry.  There is no
chassis to fix it to in front of the front "axle", so its already behind the
wheels with the ends facing forward.  The engine sits behind the front axle,
hence gets in the way of the arb...

The bit about the sump was a sort-of joke, anyway.  Yes, in its standard form
the arb can't fit, but I can easily get a blacksmith to heat and bend it so it
can be used.

Scott

	Wandering off the 23 subject still further....

	The Marlin has the same problem, they just don't have a front arb.
	No one could accuse the Marlin of rolling and I've never seen one 
	with one.  In the Marlin's case, the arb would have to find its way
	through some very substantial chassis members.  Oh, and it fits on
	a Cortina, 'cos the engine sits over the front suspension member (on
	rubber bushes), not (way) behind it as on the Marlin.

	Dave

Perhaps we should re-name this topic...?

The arb on the 'tina is in front of the engine, and probably below it too, with
the ends pointing backwards...

As I said earlier, I'll wait and see if the car needs one before going to all
the bother of trying to fit it...

Scott

When buying mini tie-bar bushes, there are two extra bushes in the packet that
serve no useful purpose (well, none that I can see).  They're rigid plastic
rather than rubber, but are about the size you want, I think...

Scott

...and stop the 23 from exhibiting front engine/front wheel drive tendencies

    I keep stumbling across notes that bring me to tears/howls.  The 23 was
    one of my favorite cars when they were new (never drove one, mind you).  
    
    Are these still available in new kit form?  Probably no chance to get
    it street legal in the USA, I guess.
    
    Question - are you going to make this topic into a movie?  I'd love to
    see it.  Might even buy the video  8')
    
    Sounds like great fun (as only those of us who have ever lived with chronic 
    greasy fingernails can define the word).
    
    Good luck...maybe I can see you run in September when we come over.
    
    Cheers...Gary

>>Would it pass American regs??  

Depends on the state. too.  Some states don't test emissions (northern New
Hampshire for example), but othere are VERY stringent (California, Maryland,
Washington DC).  FWIW, local regs are:
	<2% CO
	<3% nitrous
	some other very low measurement for HCs
Interestingly, CO2 is very high (think about it ....)
California is about 4 times harsher than Maryland, I think.

Wouldn't be so sure about the side impact specs, if I were you.  My UK Volvo
wouldn't pass them if I'd brought it here.

Brian

	I didn't think that the Noble 23 (or any other) had got German TUV
	approval.  Not neccessarily because of poor safety features (let's
	hope that it is stronger than the real 23s were), but because of EEC
	regs around lights, bumpers and the like...

	Dave

>>	hope that it is stronger than the real 23s were), but because of EEC
>>	regs around lights, bumpers and the like...


caterham 7's have TUV approval - which I'm quite surprised at since
they don't have any bumpers of any form

I wonder what TUV approval actually is since quite a few 'kit-cars' claim to
have this 'approval'

i've also seen ads for disks that keep wheels clean of brake dust that also 
claim TUV approval!



...art

    A number of years ago, when I lived in Atlanta, we had an annual
    classic sportscar tour (from Atlanta to a rural site) for charity the
    weekend before the vintage races at Road Atlanta.
    
    One year my wife drove the Rover (SD1) and I drove the Elan.  A friend
    showed up in his non-registered, race ready Lotus 11.  We had a county
    sherrif police escort from the start to the county line.  About 2 miles
    into the next county, one of their 'finest' pulled him over for driving
    a race car on the street.  It took a call to the State Police to let
    him continue, since this was an event sanctioned by the Governor!
    
    You might have a slim chance to street register a 23 if it were
    considered a 1960's car, since you would only have to meet the bumper,
    etc. requirements of that day.  However, it better have turn signals, a
    horn, hi/lo beam headlights, tail lights, muffler and all the other
    'safety' equipment for road use.
    
    	-Barry-
    

re: 561.217
>    
>    Question - are you going to make this topic into a movie?  I'd love to
>    see it.  Might even buy the video  8')
>    
>    Cheers...Gary

Gary 

I have shot some Video of Derek's 23 at Pembrey S. Wales. The problem here 
is the different standards in each country and Derek negotiating his 
royalties. Technical problems we can fix..Derek's fee well?

Dave

    
    Me too.
    
    I captured Derek pulling off probably his greatest outbraking manouvere
    ever at Druids at Brands in September. It makes great (if brief) TV!
    
    Mark

    Maybe you can all get together and create a "Best of...".  After
    conversion to VHS, I'm in for a copy.  I think a better idea is to 
    watch him firsthand - racing anywhere in September?
    
    Cheers...Gary

    Could be a short movie.......
    
    Dick

    Going back some time this could be deemed as cheating but.....
    
    I 'm not sure if Derek uses slick or not but if you do, then I have
    found something that can give you an edge. A company Hauser racing sell
    a liquid called grip...... Its tyre preperation, all normal sales blerb
    about what it does. Well it softens the rubber, so if you have a really
    crap tyre that is hard as hell it softens the rubber. It leaves no
    trace what so ever, sneaky hu. I tried it on a cheng shin , nippon slip
    on Kart tyre which is realy crap. there is a noticable difference in
    the tyre rubber compound. It doesn't damage the tyre in anyway .
    
    
    Draw your own conclusions...... 
    
    
    Garry

    Derek,
    
    
    	Did you see last weeks Autosport??? Towards the back there was a
    picture of a Forwell formula K grid with an ultima on the front row.
    I think that it was a Cadwell but don't quote me on that. Could this
    mean that you have made the pages of autosport. What next????
    
    Garry

> We have now received our final instructions for Brands. We are on last. This
> means a Sunday morning start from home at 8am.
    
    How civlised can you get ?
    
    Mark

� illness has delayed things

    
    Derek,
    
    Have you got any plans to put that spoiler on the front of your 23 yet?
    
    Mark

>> How do you cut and trim expensive perspex windscreens

Rather you than me!  I'd leave it to the experts!

    
    The 'experts' don't want to know! :-)
    
    (It was Lee Noble from Noble Motorsport who told us how to cut and
    drill perspex... basically you 'melt' it rather than cut it, the
    perspex must not be cold before you start, and you use blunt drill
    bits!) 
    
    It's stll worrying though.........

And just think, if you hadn't taken the plate off these problem wouldn't have
existed.

Simon 
	;-)

�Needed to have a headlight adjusted at the MOT station and got warnings
�about the tyres yet again. 

    I haven't read all the earlier notes in this topic, so why do they
    moan about your tyres ?  Are they 'scrubbed' (got money to burn ?) ?
    
�Next race is next Sunday at Snetterton!.
    
    Hope all goes well
    
    J.R.

�    oh yes they think the exhaust note is loud as well!
    
    Since you got a pass, does this mean that they are 'enthusiasts'
    at your mot testing station ?
    
    J.R.

    
    Someone told me that the exhaust noise level isn't an MOT fail/pass
    item, they just tell you if you have an exhaust which is too noisy.
    
    Mark
    
    PS This was on a TR8 with a 230 bhp engine and a 3 inch diameter
    exhaust!

    ...and all this before you finished overtaking!
    
    ;-)  Rob

>> sucks up too much muck from the bottom of the tank.

Why not drain and clean the tank?

Scott

You'd never get this problem with an MR-2

	(Do they go fast enough to suffer fuel starvation ?)

		Rik

    
    Derek,
    
    Have you progressed the plans for a front wing?
    
    Do you still think one is neccesary?
    
    Mark

     Derek,
     
     What's the advantage on a bigger master cylinder?

	The best way is to do it by hand ! Use one of those little sticks
	with a sucker on the end. Stick the sucker on the valve, then start 
	with the coarse valve grinding paste (it normally comes in a double
	ended tin, one end coarse the other fine). Put the stick between
	your palms and rub your palms togother, this will make the stick
	spin. Every few minutes have a look at the seat and when there are
	no highspots, change to the fine paste and repeat the procedure.
	Make sure you clean all the coarse paste away when you change to the
	smooth.

	It does take quite some time ! Do not take the easy option and use
	an electric drill 'cos this only operates in one direction. It is most
	important that you make sure that the seal is good whatever way the
	valve is turning.

	Hope that helps ! I do not envy you at all !

	have fun ! And enjoy those blisters.

	Alex 

    
    Looks like we've got a fun evening in front of us..... we're still 
    aiming to make Pembrey! Sign-on at 8am Sunday morning.......
    
    Elaine

    You used to be able to buy a device for an electric drill, that would
    convert the single-direction-only motion to a few-rotations-clockwise,
    a few-rotations-anti-clockwise. The obvious application for this was
    for valve grinding. You may still be able to buy them, but it takes all
    the fun (?) out of it! Also, it is imperative that you clean every
    grain of the paste away - the particles are very hard and will
    score/wear/scratch your engine away effortlessly. When I worked for a
    particularly unscruplous mechanic, he would sort out his debtors by
    lifting the bonnet of their car and tipping a can of grinding paste
    into the oil filler pipe. A blow-up would ensue within a very few
    miles!
    
    Phil Gill.

    You don't *have* to do them by hand, as a previous noter said, you can
    buy a valve-lapping tool for an electric drill; worth the expense. If
    you insist on doing it by hand, you can save yourself some effort by
    making up a small bow and twisting it once round the stem of the
    lapper. By moving it back and forth, you can acheive the desired
    effect.
    
    Keep lifting the valve every few turns, it helps to keep the paste on
    the surface to be ground.
    
    And they're right about that paste... clean every drop off. use petrol,
    diesel, or paraffin.
    
    Good luck, Laurie.

    Chaps
    
    I've tried an electric lapper but I had real problems making it keep
    grip of the valve. I ended up using the the hand tool.
    
    peter 

    What do you want to know about dowels ??? These are standard on all
    engines aren't they ???

    
    I don't know if all engines originally have these dowels - but most engines
    I've worked on have therefor 'lost' them!
    
    Elaine

    But if the dowels are missing, getting the head exactly aligned
    must be a real problem. Most of the studs/bolts I've seen holding
    heads on are quite a loose fit in the head ...

�how do sierra rear calipers and discs attach?
    
    To avoid comments such as :
    	"I don't know, the dealer attends to the brakes on my car'
    you may need to be a bit more specific on what you need to know.
    
    
    I guess you want details of how the calipers attach to whatever
    form of upright is used and how the disc mates up to the hub...
    
    I can see this leading to some other related questions :
    
    Which models of Sierra have rear discs, I would be surprised
    if they all had them ?  Were the discs to come from a specific
    model of the Sierra/Sapphire range ?  Was it definitely the rear
    discs that you would need to use, not front discs on the rear
    as you have at present ?
    
    What is the diameter of these discs, compared to the old ?
    How much will this change your front-to-rear brake balance ?
    Will they fit within the same size wheels ?
    Would you have to change wheels at the rear to have a Ford
    stud pattern, assuming you have an Alfasud setup at present ?
    
    J.R.

�Brake Balance? Its adjustable.
    
    I knew you had adjustable brake bias, but I wondered if this would
    have a large enough range if you were increasing the efficiency of
    the rear brakes by an appreciable amount - which I would expect to
    happen if you increase the diameter of the rear brake discs.  Then
    again, the pad area may differ too, so there could be quite a difference.
    
    I suppose if you did find the balance too far off, you could change
    one of the master cylinders to bring it all back into line.
    
    Heck of a lot of variables in this, aren't there ?
    
    I suppose you may want to consider the gearbox and diff ratios that
    this new box would provide.  I guess that (and reliability) would be
    of more importance than different braking effort, which you can see to.
    
    J.R.

    
    Re .300
    
    
    Direct replacements or something different?
    
    Mark

    Wouldn't it be simler to list the things which are not being replaced ?
    
    	Rik
    
    PS Congratuations on the good lap times keep it up.

    
    Sounds like your Noble is going to look less like a 23 next season.
    
    What does your sponsor feel about all this extra development?
    
    Mark :^)

>>build things, which is what racing kit cars are all about. Isnt it?
    
    Sounds like it  :-)
    
    Did you eventually cure your fuel surge problems ?
    
    Find any source(s) for a diff/gearbox oil pump (presumably electric) ?
    
    J.R.

 Lee Has sold the design on. Apparently the address is in last months
Kit cars international. I 've contacted  Lee but he hasnt got the phone number.
	Please can some one with the mag help?


		Derek

    re last
    
    Whats this Derek? Change of heart noting without the non de plume?
    
    Mail me and arrange a suitable time for a get together.
    
    Dave

    
    Re .311
    
    Maybe asking about a Noble 23 would give away the game if he asked
    with the Nom De Plume? (In case anyone hadn't rumbled it already! :^)).
    
    If there's no ad for the 23 in the KI issue, why not post the
    magazine's editorial number? They should know who's got the plans now.
    
    Mark

�    magazine's editorial number? They should know who's got the plans now.
    
    Kitcars International - Editorial   (0924) 469410
    			    Advertising (0293) 886998
    
    J.R.

bye bye

    Well, for all you Autosport and Motoring news readers... yes its
    true the 23 got T boned by the only other genunine racing 23.
     The 23 has severe chassis damage neccessitating a complete strip down
    of all the panels and cutting out the bent tubes and welding in new
    ones. This will take months!!.
    	I had concussion for a couple of days but I'm okay now. ( Its a new
    helmet for '94 though).
    
    		What a note to leave on!!!
    
    				bye Derek