Conference vmszoo::rc

    Kay,
    
    Congratulations on yer' new flight box.  Hope you enjoy it as much
    as I do mine.  Did you get the extra drawer-set for it or are you
    not interested in the extra drawer space?
    
    I got mine with a Sonic power panel pre-installed and, perhaps as
    a part of the installation, they mounted a miniature phone jack
    on the tote-caddy adjacent to the holes intended for carrying screw-
    drivers, etc.  Also, a miniature phone plug was provided for
    connecting to the desired fuel pump lead. 
    
    I mounted my Sonic electric fuel pump directly to the narrow side
    of my 1-gallon fuel can and installed the phone plug to the pump
    lead.  To use, I remove the caddy and connect the power panel to
    the 12vdc motorcycle battery.  Then I remove the fuel can, plug
    the pump into the jack on the caddy and pump/drain  fuel via the 
    switch on the power panel.  This seemed much simpler to me than
    trying to rig the box where the fuel can remains in the box at all
    times and the caddy always has to be returned to the box in order
    to pump fuel.   

      |
      | |      00	 Adios,      Al
    |_|_|      ( >o
      |    Z__(O_\_	(The Desert Rat)

>< Note 988.0 by HIGHFI::ALLEN >
>                           -< Beginner's Field Box >-

My favorite kind of question.  The answers are of course only an
opinion but hopefully others will chime in also and you will see
a consensus in the reply's.

>  I'm interested in putting together a field box and am wondering
>about a few hundred things. First should I spend the $30.00 or so
>for one from a hobby store? Is it worth more than the $30 dollars 
>in pain and aggravation not to build one myself? If I do wish to
>buy one what is the best on for the money? 

You would be hard pressed to get any field box for less than $30
(unless you find a used one some place - I have one for sale!).
So a good figure would be to allocate 30-120 for a field box - depending
upon how serious you are about flying and how good you feel like being
to yourself.  I started with the tower hobby deluxe flight box (or was
hit hobby shack?) for about $30 in kit form.  By the time I got it assembled
and painted it probably cost another $10.00 (not counting the fact that
I ruined a blow dryer on it!).  OK - so two years later I spoiled myself
and asked for a Custom Woodcraft flight box for Christmas ($120.00).
Doesn't seem to hold any more than my older smaller box but I still love it.

Bottom line is EVERYBODY that flys power planes needs a good flight box.
The definition of good varies quite a bit.  Visit a few different club
fields on weekends and you will see several different flight boxes many
of which are custom designed by the modeler.

I maintain that a good flight box is an absolute necessity.  If you 
don't have one you can get very frustrated with the hobby fast.

>What accessories MUST a beginner have?
>What accessories SHOULD a beginner have?

I had trouble with MUST and SHOULD so here is a list of both
I'll let you decide which.  Remember you probably have a friend
or an instructor that you can rely on to live out of his
flight box while your getting started in the hobby so you don't
necessarily have to purchase everything at once.  In fact later
after you have a full flight box you might still rely on your
flying buddies to share the load - that is not everyone should bring
epoxy and spare screws and ...

Minimum flight box:

Spare glow plugs.
1 gallon of fuel.
spare props
Ni-Starter
Dave Brown six shooter fuel pump
glow plug wrench
prop reamer
bottle of cleaner (409 or simple green)
paper towels or rags
screw driver
pliers
(cheap set of allen wrenches - metric and American)
chicken stick
small notebook and pen

>What are some of the things that are real NICE to have?

Electric Starter
Gel Cell battery for above
Electric fuel pump
Power panel for above
Expanded scale voltmeter
Spare parts for specific planes (10x24 nylon screws, rubber bands, etc.)
CA glue
Epoxy
Ball Drivers
After run oil
Duct tape

>How do all of these affect my wallet?

Too bad you didn't come to the DECRCM meeting last night.  According to
AJ they are free:-)  This kind of stuff will nickel and dime you to death.

> I recently got my hands on a Tower catalog and found I could very 
>easily spend a few hundred dollars on "Accessories" and wish to spend 
>my money on what I really need to get my (not completed yet) plane 
>up in the air. I'd like to get together a field box shopping list
>in order of importance.

I've been flying RC now for about 3 years and haven't started an engine
with my finger yet.  I consider the electric starter a safety item.  That
is not to say I haven't stuck my finger in a prop - I have - but I have
probably saved myself several other painful experiences by having an
electric starter from day one.

Bye          --+--
Kay R. Fisher  |
---------------O---------------
================================================================================

    Items needed
    
    Minimum
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------
    a couple extra props (per engine size used)
    a couple of glow plugs (RC Longs)
    Plug wrench or 5/16 nutdriver
    Glow fuel (RC type unless using an .049) 
    Chicken stick( Piece of dowl with rubber tubing outside )
    Fuel Pump (Hand crank or electric,If electric the wet cell 12v.battery)
    Glow driver (Nystarter, If you have thewet cell option then only
    		 a glow plug clip)
    	      (In addition if the wetcell option is used the a power
    	       distribution panel will also be needed)
    Misc.screwdrivers and allen wrenched.
    
    Option
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Electric starter,(if used the wet cell and power panel are required)
    Tachometer
    DVM (digital volt meter)
    Pliers
    adjustable wrench
    Misc. nuts,bolts,screws,washers,etc.
    Insecticide
    Bandaids
    glue
    Wing bolts or rubberbands
    
    
    
    
    For beginners I like the flight craft field bow. It's molder plastic
    comes assembled and doesn't need to be painted. Necessary items
    can be stored in it's one drawer. It has a space for a battery,power
    panel and gallon can of fuel. it also can be had for under 30.00
    
    
    Tom                                      
    

    Hi CRASH (used to be my name once upon a time),
    
    	If you can afford it, go with the starter!  I can remember plenty
    of times sweating my buns off sitting in a field in 85 degree sunshine
    trying to finger start a stubborn engine.  It was not a pleasant
    experience.  Of course, then you will need a battery to operate
    it.  I just recently purchased a NI STARTER and love it.  It comes
    in handy when you walk away from the flight box and the engine dies.
    Attatch it, flip the prop with a chicken stick and your off and
    running.
    
    	I also carry a bottle of CA and some 5 minute epoxy along with
    some clear 2" wide packing tape (comes in handy when your covering
    rips) and some spare fuel tubing.  It might not be a bad idea to
    carry an extra prop nut and washer too.
    
    	A key thing that Kay mentioned was to share the cost with fellow
    RC'ers.  I fly with my two brothers, and we all pitch in to buy the
    major items.  
    
    Good luck with training,
    Ken

    Hi Crash,
    
    As for what goes in the box... I'm still fairly new so I add something
    most every week. I think the previous replys give you a pretty good
    idea though.
    
    Your other question was whether to buy or build and no one else has
    answered. My suggestion is; if you have decent woodworking skills build
    it! I built one, and if I do say so myself its as nice as any pre-built
    or kit and it cost <$10.00. I do a lot of woodworking and had plenty of
    scrap plywood laying around. The only things I bought were feet, drawer
    pulls, and paint. If you had to buy the lumber I think you can still
    get by for under $15.00 and you get *exactly* the box you want. 
    
    If you decide to build your own wander up and down the flight line at
    your field and look at all the boxes. Note the features you like and
    those you don't and then design your box. Ask people at the field if
    you can measure their boxes for features you want. Plan for everything
    you know you want now as well as those things you think you'll want in
    the future. That way you don't have to start over when you add that gel
    cell and power panel you've had your eye on. If however, after a month
    or a year of flying out of your custom made box you find you really
    don't like it you don't have enough money tied up in it to feel bad
    about building yourself another. 
    
    If you'd like specifics on the one I built, or if they'd be of interest
    to anyone else let me know. I'll either post verbal details here, or
    if really enough interest I'd be glad to put together a set of plans 
    and mail 'em out.
    
    Good luck either way,
    Randy

Knew I'd forget a few things.

1.  Sun Glasses
2.  Sun Tan Lotion
3.  Check Lists
	a.  Night before check list
		Charge Tx & Rx
		Charge Ni-Starter
		Charge 12V battery
		Fill fuel tank
	b.	Pack car check list
		Plane(s)
		Wing(s)
		Struts
		Radio(s)
		Lawn chairs
		Jackets
		Camera
		Snacks
		Hat
		High Start
		RC Magazine (to read during short rain storms or when waiting to
					 meet your flying partner (who is always late))
		Flight Box
		A nice gift for your instructor (not on my list but I'm dreaming)
	c.	Pre-Flight check list
		Hinges still secure?
	    Prop tight?
		Clunk stuck?
		Fueled up?
		Rx on
		Tx on (watch sky for falling planes)
		Throttle back to fast idle
		Check direction of all controls
		Ni-Starter on

Bye          --+--
Kay R. Fisher  |
---------------O---------------
================================================================================
		
		
		

I believe that another pursuit of this hobby, besides repairing
crashed airplanes, and fiddling with engines, is to find/invent
the Perfect Field Box.  To this end I've applied no end of
intense brain power and searching energy in the last few years.

My current field box is about 18 inches long by about 10 inches
wide.  The center section is like the traditional carpenter's
tool box, with an open bin on the upper level and a drawer on the
lower level.  I have a compartment for my transmitter along one
of the long sides, and the drawer opening on the opposite lower
side. 

On one end of the box I have a compartment with a 16 oz fuel
container made of a Nalgene (ask any camper) bottle with a Dubro
hand crank fuel pump (I fly small planes at this time, and
usually wreck them before I run out of fuel).  I also keep a
spray bottle with cleanup solution on this side.  On the other
end there is a similar compartment with The Nicad That Ate
Chicago (44 Ampere hours!) and a can of WD40 that I use for
afterrun oil.  

The entire box is painted with lime green epoxy, and has lots of
stickers on it -- I like to put stickers on the box and on my
planes.

BTW the bright color does not keep me from driving off
without the box like I did last weekend.  I think I need a long
cord tied one end to the box and the other end to my neck (or
another part of the anatomy!). 

I have found the following difficulties with this box:

1.  I need space for long items like props; a vertical bin. They
now clutter up the small drawer.

2.  There should be some kind of rack in the open space for tools
like a screwdriver and a hex wrench.  Currently, when I need
these items, I have to reverse the box end-to-end (more on that
next), or move the transmitter, to open the drawer.

3.  In my regular starting procedure, I put the box with the fuel
container end nearest the plane and fuel up.  Then I reverse the
box end-to-end and connect the Nicad.  The transmitter normally
leans against the drawer.  I want to have the fuel and battery
accessible on the same side, but want to keep them at opposite
ends of the box for balance.  I am concerned about fire/explosion
if one or the other is led to the same side (and, I concede that
this is really foolish). 

4.  I carry the transmitter with the sticks facing out.  When I
walk, my leg brushes the sticks, causing great trauma to the
sticks.  I have to take care and carry the box with the tx facing
out and the drawer next to me.  I shouldn't have to make that
choice; the best solution is to stow the tx with the sticks
facing in. 

5.  There should definitely be provision for a starter motor.
Currently, I prevail on the sympathy of those who watch me crank
endlessly, then shut down after starting up because the flight
line is full.  Thanks Randy and Steve!

6.  I believe that a box should be no more than 20, maybe 24
inches long at the most, and use height efficently to get the
stowage space/compartmentalization.

I want to make a new box, but I've been stuck in the design phase
for most of this last season.  Someday the Muse will strike.  I
also don't want to give up my nice collection of stickers on the
old box.

    JOhn,
    
    I caution the fuel and battery assecc at the same end of a box for
    fire related reasons. Rather try one of those coils of fuel tubing
    that they sell for refueling a plane. I forget who sells them .
    
    My current box whixh I built is a modified copy of a guys box at
    my field. It stands a total of 12 inches tall 10 inches wide and
    24 inches long. one end houses the wet cell. The cover to this
    compartment houses the power panel. Vent slots are also cut into
    this cover. The remaining room in used to store my aircraft electrical
    starter. The opposite end contains my fuel bottle which is a Tupperware
    container, 1/2 gallon. The remaining room is for the helicopter
    electrical HIGH TORQUE starter. The center section has two drawers.
    one for tools and the other for parts. I use old servo plastic boxes
    and two small fishing lure tackle boxes to keep the misc. oarts
    somewhat sorted. Above this is an open tray. To the rear of the
    center section is a compartment for the transmitter. The top handle
    is made from a 1" piece of pine. It serves as a handle and a seat.
    
    
    
    Tom

>< Note 988.9 by CLOSUS::TAVARES "John -- Stay low, keep moving" >

>I believe that another pursuit of this hobby, besides repairing
>crashed airplanes, and fiddling with engines, is to find/invent
>the Perfect Field Box.  To this end I've applied no end of
>intense brain power and searching energy in the last few years.

Ain't it the truth.

>The entire box is painted with lime green epoxy, and has lots of
>stickers on it -- I like to put stickers on the box and on my
>planes.

WOW

>I want to make a new box, but I've been stuck in the design phase
>for most of this last season.  Someday the Muse will strike.  I

FYI notes 367.* and 415.* are about flight boxes and a chunk of
the rambling note around 239.1284 thru 239.1288 are about the Al Casey
"Custom Woodcraft" flight box.

I still maintain the neatest flight box I've seen was made by a guy
in the 495th where it was 2 pieces.  Both clipped together and
went on a K-Mart 2 wheel luggage carrier.  The bottom section was for
weekends and to top section was for lunch hours.  I described it more
fully (but not better) in note 367.6.

Seems like the perfect flight box is someone else's and nothing
can contain everything you want and still be light.

Bye          --+--
Kay R. Fisher  |
---------------O---------------
================================================================================

Dave Masterton, ex World Champ F4C, turned up at our 1985 Nats with the 
ultimate field box that contained everything to rebuild or fix just about 
anything.

















                    A 20' Semi Trailer.











Sorry guys; frivolity prevails.


John.

    I've got a Carl Goldberg flite box that has worked great.  The layout
    is logical and well balanced and for 27 bucks it sure beat cutting
    all of the pieces out myself.  I sanded it and filled the dents
    and painted it with mahogany colored poly eurethane then sprayed
    the whole thing with a clear coat of eurethane.  It looks like a
    whole lot more work than it was.  Its dolled up with a few
    strategically placed chrome come decals from AMA and looks real
    nice.  I lined the top with blue felt and the drawers with yellow
    felt.
    
    I have a basic philosophy about flite boxes, I just carry the essentials
    to fly.  I do not carry my workshop in a box!  No CA, no epoxy,
    no spare wood etc.  I've seen too many nice airplanes totaled after
    a sloppy or hurried repair done at the field under less than ideal
    conditions.  
    
    My list of goodies is:
    
    Fuel on one end
    Battery on the other (gel cell)
    power panel above the battery  
    Starter on the top
    A slot for my radio on top
    A slot for a fuel bulb and Db Meter on top    
    top drawer - spare props - timer - spare spinner - spare prop nuts
                 spare wing bolts - tie wraps - spare fuel tubing 
                 spare glo plugs
    bottom drawer - screwdriver - hex driver - pliers - cutters - knife
                    two ni starters - glo wrench
    
    I can still carry it!  Needs no wheels and fits in the trunk of
    my car!.
    
    Will
    

    The following is almost entirely a reorganization/plagiarism of the
    earlier replies with few new items added.  This reorganization
    partially reflects my own use of a hierarchy of locations for support
    equipment.  At the fields near MKO, the car parking is near the pit
    area, so the car trunk is part of the support environment --- my
    cleaning stuff, for example, is always in the truck, not the box. 

Absolute minimum flight box for a powered plane:
    
    Transmitter
    Fuel
    Fuel pump (such as the [manual] Dave Brown Six Shooter)
    McDaniel's Ni-Starter or equivalent
    Chicken stick
    Wing bolts or rubber bands as appropriate
    AMA card, frequency clips, etc. as required by the field
    
Additions for a Spartan but not *absolutely minimal* flight box:
    
    Spare, pre-balanced props and an appropriate wrench
    Sun Glasses and/or cap for (safety) visibility reasons
    Rag and a small bottle of cleaner
    
Additions for a fatter flight box:
    
    Electric Starter & battery
    Expanded scale voltmeter
    Spare glow plugs.
    Glow plug wrench
    Spare linkage fittings
    Extra prop nut and washer 
    Spare wheel, collars, and that tiny wrench
    Duct tape
    Some spare fuel tubing
    Screw driver
    Pliers
    Allen wrenches - metric and American
    Misc. nuts,bolts,screws,washers,etc.
    Small notebook and pen
    CA glue (medium thick, not ultra thin)
    
First class flight box:
    
    Electric fuel pump
    Glow plug driver
    Gel Cell battery
    Power panel for above
    Epoxy
    Tachometer
    Kneeling rug     for snow, ice, or slightly muddy pits
    Helper to carry the damn thing; else have wheels on it
    
Back in the vehicle:
    
    Bottle of cleaner (409 or simple green and/or alcohol)
    Paper towels or rags
    Trash bag (also serves as a body bag for the remains)
    Spare parts for specific planes (spinner, etc.)
    Insecticide
    Bandaids
    Sun Tan Lotion
    Provision for protecting the plane during transportation
    
Workbench:
    
    Cycler and/or chargers
    After run oil
    DVM (digital volt meter)
    Prop reamer
    Prop balancer

            
Check Lists
    
    Night before check list
    
        Charge Tx & Rx
        Charge Ni-Starter
        Charge 12V battery
        Fill fuel tank
    
    Pack car check list
    
        Plane(s)
        Wing(s)
        Struts
        Radio(s)
        Lawn chairs
        Jackets
        Camera
        Snacks
        Hat
        High Start
        RC Magazine (to read during short rain storms or when waiting to
                     meet your flying partner (who is always late))
        Flight Box
        A nice gift for your instructor (not on my list but I'm dreaming)

    Pre-Flight check list
    
        Hinges still secure?
        Prop tight?
        Clunk stuck?
        Fueled up?
        Rx on
        Tx on (watch sky for falling planes)
        Range check Tx/Rx
        Throttle set to fast idle
        Check direction of all controls
        Ni-Starter on

    	Don't forget a stick such as a popsicle stick for mixing e-poxy.
    It's also nice to have a count-down timer to measure flight time.
    The frequency identification and flag. If your club uses maked clothes
    pins for frequency control don't forget that. 
    Gloves for the winter time. Its also nice to have 2 cradels attached
    to the flight box to hold the plane while fixin. In the trunk I
    keep a fire extinguisher.
    
    

    One important item should be mentioned in all of this and
    that's a FIRST AID KIT!!
    
    Tom
    

    One more thing that I've been wondering about. Since this will be my
    first contest season (as it will for several of us from the Acton
    group), what are the most useful things to put into your flight box
    that might be out of the ordinary. I'll be carrying CA, epoxy, scrap
    balsa, tape for covering repairs, spare bolts and rubber bands... What
    else might be helpful in a pinch?

    re. last few
     
    Ruddervator is the name of the v-tail surface.
    
    Set them up with as much throw as the linkage will allow, reduce
    as necessary after test flights.
    
    A field box should also include CA kicker, scisorrs, small screwdrivers
    both flat and phillips, Swiss Army knife, clevises, servo extension
    cable, spare battery, spare servo arms, x-acto knife, single edge
    razor blade, duct tape, lunch, and a case of Evian water (east of
    the Mississippi). ;^).
    
    Terry

>   <<< Note 399.676 by ZENDIA::REITH "Jim Reith DTN 226-6102 - LTN2-1/F02" >>>
>                -< What's in a well stocked field repair kit? >-

Don't forget all kinds of cloths - extra sweater and jacket.
Extra socks and boots - frequently the dew in the morning will leave you with
soaking wet feet that will bother you the rest of the day.

Human factors - bring a lawn chain, camera, soda and ice, snacks.

>    balsa, tape for covering repairs, spare bolts and rubber bands... What
>    else might be helpful in a pinch?

I also have epoxy, post-its for mixing epoxy and Kleenex for the mess.

If possible some device to quick charge - just in case you forget a switch on.

And last but not least - make a check list for packing the car.
There is an earlier note somewhere about check lists.

Bye          --+--
Kay R. Fisher  |
---------------O---------------
################################################################################

    The field box topic is 988.*      I'll move these entries there later.

    For a glider field box, add:

    	weights		for trim and for ballast

    	spare hi-start rings, etc.

    	spare hi-start flag and fishing line 
    		(in your vehicle, not the box; for replacing a line in a tree)

    	clear office tape for mending Monokote holes

    	small towel for wiping dew off a wing

    I carry a small traveler's bag instead of my field box.  Surplus bags
    of the type "given" to tour participants can be bought for a dollar. 
    That gets a canvas bag 5 by 11 by 12 high with a zipper top and a
    water-proof bottom and a side pocket.  Not a bad deal.  The transmitter
    fits inside, and the shoulder strap frees the hands.

    Spare wing rods for those slightly too agressive launches.
    
    Which reminds me..............
    
    Steve