Conference vmszoo::rc

    Tom,
    
       Did you finish your Stinger?  How about a report on it.
    
                                               Regards,
    
                                               Jim

Tom, I have the RCM article and drawings on the Twin Cities
Flybaby project.  Be glad to shoot them and pass them on.  If you
want them send me a mailstop offline.

BTW -- been meaning to get back to you on your trim tips.  Did
the trick; I went back to square zero and reset everything with
the Robart meter, and it flew great.

Last week I had a dicey time with it though.  I took off and had
a sharp turn to the left, so I panicked and cranked in full right
aileron and proceeded to put on a wonderful aerobatics
demonstration till I finally cranked in full left rudder.  Whew!

This week I'll leave the aileron out and crank in a teensy bit of
right rudder for a much calmer flight.  The plane is, when
trimmed :-), a delight to fly, thanks again for the info.

    Thank's for the invite on the Plans but I already have them.  Compared
    to the factory drawings they are a little off.
    
    I'm using the factory drawings to get an as exact shape and size as
    I can.  They Twin cites flybaby is really standoff scale.
    
    
    Tom

     Last night I went over the factory drawings and did some comparisons
    between the hardware used with hardware sold by Proctor.  I found that
    a majority of the parts needed can be purchased and with some
    modifications will yield a beleavable representation.  There are still
    a few items that I'll have to fabricate completely from scratch but
    this will reduce the needed efforts.  It will also end up reducing the
    wallet by 122.50 + shipping.  But then it's all in the cause of being
    realistic.  So what ever...  
     Yesterday I recieved a package from UPS and Gator RC containing a plug
    in wing rod and some other misc. items. 29.90 to be exact.  I'm keeping
    a running tally like Kay usually does so we'll see how it turns out.
    
    To date we are looking at;
    
    	Wing tube and misc items	29.90
    	Hardware (90%)		       122.50+shipping
    	Wood,engine mount and scale
    	instrument kit			74.95
                                 ------------------
                                       
    	Total to date		       227.35
    
    
    
     Item still needed;
    
    	1/5 Scale pilot
    	3 1/4" wheels
    	Covering
    	Paint
    	Engine
    	Muffler
    	Hinges
    	2 9601 Futaba servos
    	
    
    
    	Tom	

    I recieved my wood order from Balsa USA yesterday.  $ 88.23 including
    shipping.  ALso I figured the hardware requirements incorrectly.  I 
    was figuring on to many turnbuckles of one type so that figure will
    drop to 85.00+ shipping.  
    
    I'm wondering if the 3/16 spruce inner frame sheeted with 1/32nd
    plywood will be to stiff to work with.  Any comments?
    
    
    Tom

My designs do not have any formers between the one at the wing
trailing edge and the one in front of the stab.  I've never had
any trouble with weakness in those areas.  Everytime I do a model
like this I feel a little queasy because most designs have at
least one bulkhead in this area -- but mine come out lighter in
the tail.  The Robin has several transverse spars in this area,
but I did it to duplicate the framing of the original.  I think
you'll be ok that way, but the secret of success is to have
perfect fitting glue joints so the box will be properly stressed.

    
    That wans't my point. Rather,  I'm planning on duplication the actual
    structure almost 100% except for some additional members to support the
    plug in wing tube and such.  This means that the sided of the fuse will
    be constructed of 3/16 spruce with an outer sheeting of 1/32nd plywood.
    I was wondering if this would being to stiff to accept the taper in the
    tail section.
    In addition I plan to use 3/16 spruce for the vertical and horizontal
    stabs abd again this is app. 1/5th the thickness of the full sized
    aircraft.  The two horizontal stab halves and the vertical stab will
    be assembled with tubing installed (like a sailplane) to allow then
    to also be plugged in.  Then the stabs will be secured with a
    turnbuckle and cable arangement between the vertical and horizontal
    stabs and the bottom of the fuse at the rudder post.  I hope that this
    will secure them from ocoming loose from the fuse and also add strength
    the the tail assembly.
    The first four ribs of each wing panel will be made from 1/16 plywood
    as these will be a major load bearing area. I plan it install the wing
    joiner tubes into the ribs so that the "Scale" location of the spars
    and shear webs will be glued to the front of the tube. A non scale but
    hidden set of spars will be installed just behind the joiner tube with
    shear webs.  This will be glued to the rear of the tube.  The front
    spars will be 1/4 x 1/2 spruce.  The rear spar will be 3/16 square
    spruce.  A third spar made of 3/16 spruce will be installed to frame 
    where the aileron goes and to also help carry load. The spars ar flush
    mounted on the ribs so when the leading edge sheeting and cap strips
    are added the spars will not show up when the wing is covered.  The
    remaining ribs in the wing panel will be 3/32nds balsa sheet stock. Cap
    strips are pnly 1/8" wide again to represent a scale width to the
    real ribs.  The onlt deviation to the scale wing will be the addition 
    of a piece of 1/16 x 1 1/2" trailing edge sheeting to the underside of
    the wing. This will be used to add strength to the TE and I hope it
    isn't really visible during judging.  A 1/4" dowl pin will be installed
    at the LE and near the TE of the wing panel to help locate the wing to
    the fuse.  The flying wires will then be used to keep the wing from
    coming loose from the fuse rather than being really functional flying
    wires.  The aileron servos for each wing panel will be installed in the
    panel and accessed from the bottom by a nonscale hatch.
    I'm planning on using an OS90 or OS70 or Enya 80 four stroker for
    power.  I know that any of these engines will fit under trhe cowl so
    I figured that I'd build the framework of the plane and cover it and
    then see what I need for weight and power up front. 
    
    Should be interesting.  I've been planning the construction on and
    off for some two years.  Hopefully it will make the construction that
    much smoother.
    
    
    Tom

    Tom,
    
    If you build the stick structure fully and then attach the 1/32"
    sheeting to it you shouldn't have any problems. Building the sides flat
    and sheeted will produce stress in the structure when you pull it
    together. If you add the sheeting afterwards, it will be relaxed in the
    bent position and add more structural strength (or should I say less
    prestressing)

Ok.  I realised as I was rushing off to a dentist appointment
that I didn't make my point clear.  What I meant was that I
regularly build the tail section with little reinforcement and
have had no trouble.  As Jim pointed out the 1/32 is quite
capable of carrying the load; it is the equivalent of 1/8 balsa.

In the front of the model, from the firewall to the back of the
wing, I think I'd back up the skin with some 1/8 ply on the
inside of the spruce frame.

    
    On the real aircraft the wing area is supported with a 1" laminated
    plywood structure that has lightening holes and area opened to route
    the aileron controls through.  On the model this will be duplicated but 
    slightly enlarged where the wing joiner tube passes through the fuse
    sides.  The back side of the joiner tube will be mounted against a
    scale bulkhead.  I'm going to add an additional half bulkhead in front
    of the joiner tube in the fuse and then drill a hole through both of
    the bilkheads and the joiner tube.  This will secure the tube inside
    the fuse.
    
    I did some figuring lst night and determined that the joiner tube will
    need to be bend, actually cut and then welded in order to get the scale
    3 7/16" dyhedral under each wing tip.
    
    
    Tom

    I need to figure out how to cut a 15/16" hole is some 1/16 plywood.
    the hole must be round because the wing joiner tube will be installed
    inside it.  Any help is appreciated.
    
    Tom

Tom,

	I'm not sure what sizes they come in, but most hardware stores have
circular drills used for drilling round holes in doors for mounting door knobs/
locks. Picture a round metal tube with teeth around the edge for drilling, and
a center drill bit extending slightly beyond the outer rim of the "tube drill"
for center punching/stablizing the whole process.

Steve

    Steve,
    	I know of these, but they tend to leave a rough hole. All of the
    bits I've found are either 7/8 or 1" in size. No one seems to make
    a bit 15/16 in size. I was wondering if there is such a thing as a
    metric wood bit that might come a little closer to the 15/16 of an
    inch dimention.  If all else fails I'll resort to a 1" Forsner (sp)
    bit and fudge the fit in the wing. Thinking of it now I could off set
    the drill hole so that when the joiner tube is installed it is wedged
    between the shear webs and one side of the hole. This would provide a
    tight fit on the sides with a 1/32nd gap on the top and bottom of the
    hole.
    
    Tom

    Another alternative would be an Xacto knife and a compass (one of the
    good ones with the thumb screw adjustment)

Yet another way.  Assuming your joiner tube is made of something hard
like brass or aluminum - just sharpen it's end and spin it for a drill.

If it is cardboard (some are) harden one end with zap and burn your
way thru (I haven't tried that).

A third way might be to set the fuse on a fence post then take
careful aim with your 12 gauge shot gun loaded with slugs.  If you
do this over your shoulder using a mirror and set up a plate to
ricochet off and you can do both holes with one slug.  If you want
to get this right the first time you have to wear a coon skin cap.

But be sure to add the cost of your buntline special to the model 
cost.



Born on a mountain top in Tennessee,
greenest state in the land of the free.
dum dee dee dee dum dee dum dee dee dee
and he kilt himself a bear when he was only three.
Davey, Davey Crockett,
King of the wild frontier.

Hey - anybody remember the name of the captain of the river boat?

Boy was that a tangent.

It probably doesn't have to be straight because invariably you can't get
the two holes perfect when you put the tubes in and look at the wings.
You need slightly oversized holes then epoxy shut the excess after the
wings are lined up. 

But why are we telling you this.  This is the kinda building question that
we are always asking you Tom.  

Is there another Tom Tenerowicz?  One a novice and one an expert?

Perhaps, so will the old Tom please tell the new Tom how to drill a hole:-)

Hey Tom T.  I have a Tom T. Hall tape...

"I love little baby ducks, old pickup trucks, and..."

Sorry - there I go again.

I think the day I was born they added "tangent" to the dictionary.

Bye          --+--
Kay R. Fisher  |
---------------O---------------
################################################################################

    More probable if the fact that the doctor dropped you on your
    head.:-)
    
    Here's the plan,
    
    1, Cut a plywood blank 2" x 11" from 1/8" ply
    2, Cut 8 additional blanks from 1/16 ply
    3, Drill 1" hole in 1/8" plywood blank
    4, Transfer shape of rib to 1/8" blank
    5, Cut and sand shape of rib into 1/8" blank
    6, Drill 1/16" blanks for 1" hole.
    7, Using the 1/8"rib transfer rib shape to 1/16 blanks.
    8, Cut and sand blanks to shape.
    9, Use 1/8" rib template to cut remaining 3/32nds ribs for wing.
    
    The dyhedral will be cut into the wing joiner tube and the tube welded.
    The tube will be a semi perminant part of the fuse.
    
    
    Tom

    
    
      To give this note some needed CPR I'll be reporting the construction
    of the Walt Moucha Flybaby here.  I got his kit as a Christmas gift
    and will be building it shortly (when it arrives).  I've spend about
    20.00 on phone calls talking to Walt about the kit and what he did to
    make the design more manufacturable.  Primarly only one item was
    changed.  that being the wing location.  The wing on the full sized
    flybaby sits on the bottom of the fuse and because it's a clark Y
    foil the Trailing edge hangs down below the rear bottom of the fuse.
    To get away from having the cord TE hanging in the breeze Pete Bower
    designed a different cord rib that has an up swepted TE.  So the last
    rib bay has the curved TE.  To get away from this,  the kit has the
    wing embeded into the fuse more.  I'll be changing the wing location 
    and the appropriate ribs to get back to the scale up sweep.  I'm also
    going to make the plan with plug in wings.  This will mean cutting
    holes on a few ribs and making new fuse plywood doublers.  This lends 
    itself to change seeing as they need to ne changed to lower the wing.
    
    Walt uses a balsa frame with a 1/8" inner doubler from the firewall to
    the TE of the wing.  I'm going with a 1/16 inner fuse doubler from the
    firewall to the TE and an outer sheeting of the entire fuse side with 
    1/16 ply. In the cockpit area thin framework members will be added for
    scale realism.  Walt used aluminum sheeting on the top deck as did the
    full sized plane.  In the kit he opted for balsa.  I'll be using
    aluminum.  Walt uses 3/8" stock to make the vertical and horizontal
    built up stabs.  I'll be opting for 1/4" as this is stock and making
    them plug in.  This is how the real plane has them.  I can't think of a
    better way of simulating the fit of the full sized plug in stabs with
    anything other than plug in stabs.  They will be sceured with rod
    braces.  I'm goint to use a different cowl that what comes in the kit.
    the kit supports the J3 style cowl used on many Flybaby's.  The
    pictures I have is of a flybaby with a P11 style cowl.  This was pipers
    first production effort at an enclosed pressure cowl.  It lead to the
    PA18 style pressure cowl.  I have the cowl.  It came from fiberglas
    masters.  
    
    The kit is supposed to build to 12-15 lbs.  I'm going to use the OS108
    I currently have.  To should fit into the cowl with the Davis Diesel
    muffler I have without any holes needing to be cut into the cowl.
    
    The engine presently is running on with a 16/6 prop and can be heard to
    speed up in the air.  I know it can take more pitch.  A scale prop
    would be 17" in diameter.  I may try running a 17/6 and see if the
    engine will fly the plane with this set-up.
    
    I'm planning on installing the elevator and rudder servos (3, 2 on
    elev.,1 or rudder) behind the cockpit.  I'll install a hatch in the
    bottom of the fuse where it won't show.  Aileron servos will be 2, one
    in each wing panel.  The throttle servo may be installed on the
    firewall inside the cowl.  Not sure on that.  RX and battery will be
    below the fuel tank in the nose of the plane. If I have enough room to
    position the fuel tank to one side of center I'm going to try and use
    the scale fuel guage as an on/off switch location for the RX.
    
    I need a source for some hex bolt and phillips screws with about 1/16-
    3/32nds head diameters.  Small, but these are about scale sizes for the
    hardware that secures the top deck sheeting, wing screen and the
    landing gear.  I plan to make some plastic pieces to simulate the
    landing gear hardware out for flat sheet stock.  The gear will actually
    be wire with wood installed over it. 
    
    
    I found the previous owner of the plane I have pictures for.  He has
    since sold the flybaby but sent me a letter with detailed answers to my
    questions on Manuavers flown, construction, and finish.  He even gave
    me the paint brand and numbers off of the old cans he had.  He'd
    forgotten he even had them.
    
    
    
    
    Tom

    Yesterday I mailed out my order for hardware to Proctor.  With
    shipping it came to 94.00.  Still waiting for the kit.
    
    						Tom

    You can call the EAA at 800 843 3612 and ask for a copy of "Building
    the Wood Airplane" which is a reprint of the EAA series of plans for 
    the Fly Baby that ran in the early 60's.  It costs about $10.00.  
    
    Will

    
    Where's the FlyBaby stand??   Well,.........
    
    
    I'm still waiting for Walt Mocha Models to ship me my kit.  There
    best guess is that they'll be shipping kits wednesday of next week.
    That puts the start of construction in the middle of february.  We'll
    see.  I did pick up a Forsner bit to drill out the 1" holes I need
    to install the tube for the plug in wings.  Once I get the kit I'll
    be laminating eight ribs with 1/32 ply and making two new center cord
    ribs from 1/8" ply.  Then I'll make a fixture to accurately position
    the ribs in a drill press.  Then they can be drilled to accept the plug
    in wing tube.  I found an older cardboard tube so the clearance will be
    minimal.  After this is done I can build the wing panels and then the
    tail feathers.  My plan is to do this and the start on the fuse.
    
    
    Tom

    
    
    Still no Flybaby kit from Malt Moucha Models.   I called late last
    week and he is now saying back ordered kits (that me:-)) will be
    shipped today, monday!!  We'll see!   
    
    In the mean time I'm putting a gremlin back together.  Need to finish 
    the wing and make two new vertical stabs.  Then fit the controls.
    
    							Tom
    
    PS, when the kit comes in I'll give an open box evaluation and then
    an building progress report.
    
    
    

    
    
    Walt Mocha Models called up yesterday because the plastic wouldn't go
    through the bank.  Seemed they got a number wrong from my girls card.
    
    Well....  I know now that they've shipped the kit.  
    
    Guess I'll have to spend some time in the shop cleaning up and getting
    ready for some serious building.  I came across a piece of 1/4" sheet
    glass.  I've been thinking of putting the plans down on the bench top
    and then the glass.  Then using some thin strips of double sided tape 
    to adhere the wing spars and ribs in place on the glass over the plans.
    I wonder if it will come out straight?
    
    
    Tom

>>  glass.  I've been thinking of putting the plans down on the bench top
>>  and then the glass.  Then using some thin strips of double sided tape 
>>  to adhere the wing spars and ribs in place on the glass over the plans.

    If the glass is not scratched up, consider attaching the spars and ribs
    to the glass with instant CA.  When the wing structure is finished, a
    sharp blow to the root should crack it off.

    I have used a similar technique with hot glue and plywood to jig a
    structure made of pine (not a model).

    Alton who vaguely remembers reading this but never tried it with balsa
                                             ---------------

    
    Interesting idea Alton!   I had thought of something a little different
    over the weekend.  I thought to glue a series of 3/8" thick sticks onto
    the glass and use these to pin the wood structure down.  
    
    I'll consider your idea but worry that the removal of the structure
    from the glass could damage the structure.  Perhaps we'll see!  
    
    In thinking of using the glass I've decided to draw a few lines on both
    sides of the glass sheet.  These will hopefully be spaced identically
    on both sides and be used as reference lines if the need arises.
    
    
    Tom
    
    
    P.S.  Hopefully the kit will arrive today!  UPS is delivering
    today,right?  Or are they off today?
    
    
    I'd love to start the wing tonight.  It will take me about one hour
    to prepare the inboard ribs with plywood laminations and 1" holes
    to accept the wing joiner tubes.  I have a club meeting wednesday and
    would love to have one or both wing panels built.
    
    

I tried the balsa on glass idea when I built the wings for my Spirit. Maybe I 
just wasn't careful enough but I had problems. The CA wicked down underneath
the sheeting and I had a devil of a time getting the wing free. I still have
to go back and fix the bottom sheeting in a couple of places some day. Tom, I 
like your idea about gluing down sticks and then oinning the structure to that. 

    
    
    An ideal situation would be a glass sheet with an etched grid on both
    surfaces.  If the grids were identical, the bottom grid could be viewed
    through the glass and placed on the plans.  The top grid could be used 
    to locate the structure.  Now if it was a grid with a rule attached...
    
    This gets more and more complicated, every time you think about it.
    
    
    No matter how flat a surface yoiu start out with, once you put
    something down in order to hold the structure down your building
    surface is suspect.  I wonder how those magnetice building boards are?
    anyone ever have an opertunity to use one?
    
    							Tom

    Ajai used the magnetic building board. His comments are in the Wot4
    notes.
    
    A sheet of drywall, waxed paper and pins works well FWIW.
    
    What about an Adjusto Jig?? 

>>  I wonder how those magnetice building boards are?
    
    
    I own and use (no wise cracks, Reith and Friedrichs) one lying on a
    woodworker's workbench.  Although I do use the magnets, my primary use
    of the product is for the ruled steel plate on which I use six blocks
    of steel (at six pounds each; 2x3x4) and bags of birdshot to hold the
    victim.  The magnets are usually used to hold the balsa against those
    blocks.
    
    This approach makes very, very true structures.
    
    Alton who would be seriously injured if he were to ever drop one of
    	  those steel blocks on a foot.

    
    Well, I'm back, from a day of vacation that is...   The kit arrived
    yesterday.  Two boxes.  Cowl in one bax and all the wood in the other
    box.  Plans are excellent.  I have to rate the wood as a "B" however.
    he uses lite ply for ribs.  I can't figure out why but he does.  A few
    of the cap strips are really hard.  I have to use them on the bottom of
    the wing where the airfoil is flat.
    
    Last night I got one wing panel framed up and installed the top center
    section sheeting, LE and TE sheeting.  Tonight is a club meetings so
    I hope to get the cap strips finished and the bottom center section
    sheeting done. This wold complete one wing panel.  Thursday will see
    the other panel framed.
    
    Later...
    
    
    Tom

    I spent about 30 minutes in the shop last night before my club meeting
    working on the Flybaby.  I installed the wing tip and the top and
    bottom wing tip blocks.  I didn't ready the instructions or look at the
    plans all to well when I was installing the LE sheeting and ended up
    cutting it off one rib short at the wing tip.  SO, I ended up splicing
    this area and sith a little sanding it will be goog as new.  I should
    be able to finish up the cap stripping on this panels and start the
    other panel tonight.  I'm planning on going to the hobby shop to pick
    up some 3/32nds sheeting.  I'm not pleased with the cap strips they
    included in the kit and will substitute.  Also theywere supposed to
    send me a set of wheels and a tailwheel.  These are missing from the
    shipment.
    
    
    Tom

    
    Sorry for the Typo's in the last note.  Have to retrain my fingers...
    
    
    When the kit arrived tuesday I spent about an hour figuring out what
    I would have to change to correct the wing for scale outline.  Then
    I called the Rat himself and spend a few minutes discussing it.  Al
    seemed to think that if the judges picked up on the wing they'd only
    deduct a max. on one point from scale outline.  So on his suggestion,
    I decided to build the wing per the kit.
    
    Al's doing OK,  He seemed in good spirits.  He didn't bring up his
    work status so I didn't ask.  I'm sure our thought are with the Rat.
    
    
    						Tom

    
    	I've been putting time in on and off from working on the house
    and going to the WRAm show.  Presently I have one (the left) wing panel
    complete except for a good sanding and sheeting on the bottom center
    section.  I also worked most of friday night and some of sunday on the
    right panel.  This (right) panel is built and sheeted to the same
    extent as the left panel except that I've built the left aileron but
    as yet haven't touched the right.  That's tonights business.  Also I
    still need to get to the hobby store and pick up some additional
    3/32nds sheeting and some 1/4 scale hinges. Hopefully the wing will be
    completed by mid week including being joined at the center section and
    fiberglased.  This will allow fuse construction to start latter this
    week.  I'm working on a tight schedule.  The NAT's are coming...
    
    Look to the wram show note for a few other details...
    
    
    Tom

    
    I finished up the cap strips on the second wing panel and built the
    aileron for this wing panel.  I still need to install cap strips on
    this aileron and a control horn plywood support on the other aileron.
    Also, I hinged the left aileron to the wing panel.  Tonight will see
    the completion of the second aileron including hinging it.  I'm also 
    going to install both aileron servos in the wing.  The ailerons aren't
    any bigger than those on my last (LA-1) pattern ship so I'm opting
    to install two futaba 9601 servos in the wing for the aileron control. 
    The speed of the "Flybaby" should be slower than the LA-1 so the stress 
    the servo sees should actually be less.  I need to install the servos
    and control horns and then a small piece of balsa where the exit wire
    will come out of the wing. With this done I'll put the two wing panels
    aside until I'm ready to join them.  This won't come until I'm ready to
    install the wing onto the fuse.  I figure they'll be easier to handle
    this way.
    
    
    							Tom

    
    Last night I got the wing panels finished and started working on 
    the tail feathers. The elevators in framed and thehorizontal stab about
    3/4 completed.  they still need to be shaped and sanded.  Tonight I'll
    complete the horizontal stab and hopefulle complete the rudder and
    vertical stab.  That will set me up for starting the fuse this weekend.
    
    Tom

    
    I had a rather busy weekend building.  Friday nights we usually go out,
    but when I got home I found my lady sick in bed.  So it was a baby
    sitting night.  SHe got to sleep about 8:00 and I started building.
    I had one fuse side all framed up so I pinned this side down on my
    building baord and covered it with plastic wrap. The other side was
    then build right over the first one.  This is a std. stick framing
    construction method.  You try and follow the plans as best as you can
    on the first side and then you try and build a mirror image of the 
    first side regardless of any flaws in shape it may have. This way you
    can get to almost identical sides.  I have to say they are really close
    to being exact twins.  After this, I finished framing up the horizontal
    stab and then called it a night.  
    
    Sat. morning she was feeling better and we had to do some shoping so we
    started the day off with breakfast out.  We ended up getting back to
    the house about 1:00 and I installed the new mattress for the water bed
    (that was the shopping we had to do), filled it and had it all buttoned
    up by 3:30.  I then started the fuse construction.  In and out of
    the shop for mini breaks and dinner and by 7:00 the fuse was all framed
    up.  I called it a night.
    
    Sunday, we had company come in from Maine so in between I got the
    rudder and vertical stab framed and started on the landing gear. Later
    last night I tack glued the rear blocks in place and carved then to
    shape.
    
    The fuse, wing and tail feathers now need a good sanding and then I can 
    start covering the fuse.  Once this is done I can install the
    tailfeathers and then the aluminum fairings around the tail and the
    front aluminum decking.  I hope to bick up a 1/4  scale pilots bust
    this week so I can figure out the placement of a cockpit floor. I also
    need to install some hardwood strips to secure the aluminum to the
    fuse. 
    
    Top

    
    All of the rough framing is completed and it's now on too the finer
    detailes.  
    
    I spent last night installing the main landing gear.  This required
    that I cover the bottom front of the fuse with fabric and then poke
    four holes in the covering to allow the gear legs to slide into the
    mounting blocks. This done I then wire wrapped the two main lets and
    the cross axle together and soldered then using the new torch I bought
    at the WRAm show.  Did a great job, best soldering I ever did on a gear
    set-up.  This done tp both sides I started work on the gear wire
    fairings.  the kit inclides some 1/2 x 1/4 balsa with a slot cut down
    the center to make the fairings.  This is not scale in size the full
    sized fairings being 4" wide. At 1/4 scale the fairing would need to be
    1" wide.  Also they will probably be to soft to withstand any landing.
    I used balsa alone once before on a ship and they ended up cracking
    after a short period.  SO...
    
    I opted to laminate up the fairings with 1/32 plywood outer shells with
    a balsa filler.  I have one outside shell done with a 1/8" balsa
    filler.  To be scale I need to add a second layer of 1/16 balsa and
    then install the inner 1/32 plywood shell. I had intended to use an
    aluminum strut fairing for the axle (scale) but couldn't figure out how
    to install it and be able to solder the axle/gear.  So I'll be probably
    making one from 1/64 plywood with a balsa LE.  Today I hope to stop at
    the local hobby store and pick up some plastic sheet stock.  I'm going
    to use this to simulate some hardware used to install the scale gear to
    the fuse.  I've also found some tiny hex bolts made of brass that will
    be installed threw the plastic sheets into the framework of the model
    to simulate the bolts that holds on the hardware.
    
    The last thing I did last night was install 1/4 x 1/2" hardwood strips
    to the fuse to allow me to screw the front deck and turtle deck
    aluminum sheeting to the fuse.  I'm still looking for some small headed
    1/2" long phillips cap head screws for this.
    
    
    Tom