Conference vmszoo::rc

    The following is the manufacturer's sales pitch on the Great Plains
    "Spirit"2 meter glider.
    
         "The Great Plains Spirit, piloted by Paul Carlson, captured
          1st place in the 2 meter class at the 1990 AMA Nats.  And,
          in 1991, it captured the international vote for 1991 Model 
          of the Year!  
    
          Easy to assemble and very durable, ... the Spitit is designed
          around a 2 meter triple-taper platform, polyhedral shape, and
          low wing loading, and is an excellent thermal chaser.  It's 
          easy to build, even for the beginner, with detailed plans and 
          instructions to guide you through every step of assembly.  
    
          Hardware, canopy and molded cockpit are also included.  The 2
          meter wing features a modified Selig 3010 airfoil and triple 
          taper planform with low wing loading.  This design provides
          excellent turing and smooth, stable flights with interlocking
          constructon.  
    
          The Spirit can be fuilt for 2 channels or as a 3 channel with
          optional spoilers.  
    
          Tower's 1991 catalogue shows the retail price at $47.95 and their
          price at $39.95 (their April Flyer has it on sale for $34.99).
    
    Specifications:
    
    Wing span:  78.5"
    Wing area:  676 sq. in.
    
    Weight:     30 oz.
    
    I have ordered one of the above and it is being flown in on an L1011
    for qiuck delivery.
    
    Regards,
    
    Ollie
    
    
          platform, p
    
          
    
    

    A few weeks ago I got 4 short flights on a Spirit while helping
    a couple of jr. hi. age kids do the maiden flights.
    
    It has a nice looking wing, and an enormously wide fuselage, although
    I think that of any balsa fuselage after flying fiberglass
    hi-performance types. Overall, it gives an impression of strength
    and durability when compared to a Gentle Lady.
    
    It was too breezy to let the kids have any stick time (ya, sure,
    you big meany!) but it seemed to handle the wind better than a G.L.
    Rudder response flying downwind was sluggish,but conditions masked
    true capabilities.
    
    The area for nose weight is an open top box under the forward canopy.
    The kids had used a handful of nuts and bolts for weight. On landing,
    the canopy would fly off and the nuts and bolts would spew across
    the grass. After the third session of searching through the grass,
    I suggested they invest in some lead sinkers and epoxy and come
    back when the wind was calmer. Haven't seem them since, but then
    neither have I seen the two IBM salesmen that I helped out with
    their G.L. , last weekend. Is there a moral here ?
    
    Terry

I just built one and have flown it about 10 times. Compared to my old Gentle
Lady, it flies 100 times better! I bought mine after watching Dan Snow fly his
at the field we fly at in Acton MA during lunch. It looked very stable in the 
air and had a nice easy glide to it. I got my best flight on it today (8+ minute
flight) after a so-so launch(maybe @75 feet - correct me if I'm wrong Kay.)
We were using a small upstart and it didn't have the UMPH, in calm condition,
to get the plane up to a somewhat comfortable height. 

I've flown the ship in somewhat windy(15-25 mph gust) condition also and found
that it does penetrate pretty good. I could give her a little up elevator with
the nose pointed in the wind, gain a little height, and then point the nose down
and head back upwind. All without loosing too much altitude.

I did make one modification to the plane. At Dan Snow's suggestion, I increased
the rudder size by an inch(just move the TE out an inch.) With the mod, I can
really swing tail around in a nice flat turn. Don't know what it's like without
the change.

I know of a few more who have built or are building Spirit in the area(Central
MA/Southern NH), so maybe they could are their thoughts as well. I'll be using
the Spirit in my first glider contest on the 18th in Maine. I don't care how I
do, but know I'll have a great time flying the Spirit!!!

-Lamar 

    What I strange week....  Monday Ollie (.0) calls me and asks my opinion
    of the Spirit and the closest I had ever been to one was reading the 
    Tower's ad...  Wed. I was lucky enough to read Dan Snow's FOR SALE ad
    first, and I am now the proud owner of one!
    
    One of the big questions that Ollie and I discussed was if there was 
    enough room for full size servos...  Well, since I had to move the 
    servo rails anyways, and since I have a lot of S-28 servos, I went
    ahead and put 2 full size servos in..  They actually fit with a little
    bit of extra room!  I don't think you can use a full size for the 
    spoilers though, as that servo ends up underneath the canopy.
    
    Other than that, it looks like a clean airplane..  I'll let you know
    how it flies next week!
    
    cheers,
    jeff
    

    You got a very nice plane there, Jeff. I still remember it buzzing past
    me as I circled in a thermal it's first day out. Dan got a 35 minute
    flight as he "specked out" and HAD to come down to go back to work (I
    HATE when that happens 8^). That particular plane is a very nice model.
    I've seen a few at varying degrees of building skill and they've all
    flown well.                     

    Does great planes sell any other glider kits besides the Spirit?
    
                                                          Regards,
    
                                                          Jim

    Hurraaaaay, I finished the Spitit.  Now if I can get Jeff out to the
    field to check it out and teach me how to keep it in the air for 10 or
    more minutes I will be if "hog heaven".
    
    Since I added 1 a training edge of 1 1/4 inches to the rudder and added 
    a 45 degree balsa stick to the leading edges of both the rudder and stab, 
    (for gapless hinges), I came out with a readward CG.  After adding 4 1/2 
    ounces of lead to the ballast box, I achieved balance.  Then I got smart 
    and cut the balsa nose cone in half, hollowed it out, revmoved the 4 1/2 
    ounces of lead from the ballast box and then put in 2 1/2 lead ounces in 
    the nose cone and again balance at the CG.
    
    This Great Plains Spirit kit was fun to build.  The fuse is self
    aligning since the bottom is laid out on the table, the ply bulkheads
    are then installed followed by the sides and finished with the top. 
    All are fitted into the bulkheads which forcees an aligned fuse.
    
    The wing ribs are dye cut which just puch out of the balso sheet and
    fit flawless with the leading/traiing edges and with the spars.
    
    I elected to make a one piece wing mounting with rubber bands (the are 
    also options to built a once piece wing for wing bolts as well as a two
    piece wing).
    
    Hav'nt weighed it yet (still trying to find a "gram scale" for you
    purists since pounds and ounces will totally confuse you).
    
    Look forward to flying it this week end.
    
    Regards,
    
    Ollie
    

    
    I built a two piece bolt down wing (not an option) one piece bolt down
    wing is an option though. I put small cracks in the fuse every time I
    had a rough landing. So I finally got fed up and now have a rubber band
    mounted wing and very happy with it. I did stock tail surfaces and also
    had a rearward c.g. that required a lot of lead (don't know weight).
    

    Thanks to Jeff Friedricks my Spirit flew Saturday and Sunday with no
    major problems.  A Cox .051 with power pod was used for this test
    flying.
    
    One observation was that the Spirit flies much faster after engine cut
    off than with the engine running.  It seemed to fly more like a slope
    soarer than a floater.
    
    We had trouble with the air in the line so I changed it out on
    Saturday night and the problem continued to be present on Sunday.  We
    feel that the use of the D&R Pod with tank has too narrow a base to
    strap on with rubber bands since there in a LOT of virbration with the
    engine running.  Sooooo, I am constructing a 1/16 ply base to 
    mount the pod on using two bolts and then applying exoxy over the botton of
    the pod to the ply base.
    
    Regards,
    
    Ollie    
    attach it to the 

    Yes, it was interesting flying Ollie's plane..
    
    First off, the D&R pod does not give you very much clearance above the
    wing...  We cut more than a few of the rubber bands as we were fiddling
    with the engine.
    
    We also were getting a lot air in the fuel line....  It appeared to be
    vibration induced..  The D&R pod has a very narrow base and moves
    around a bit.  Hopefully the addition of a permanant, larger base to 
    the pod will help both of these situations.
    
    I must admit that I am still not comfortable flying the Spirit (mine or
    Ollies'.  I think I am still flying it too slowly in general...  And
    with the power pod running, I was always trying to gain altitude, but
    ended up stalling it more than anything.  Once the engine stopped, I
    would let the nose come down and it was flying a bit better..  I guess
    I have been flying the gas bags too much..
    
    Cheers,
    jeff
    

    I had a power pod that I scratch built in the 70's that served me well.
    It was an 1/8th" plywood pylon that arched forward to which I attached
    some .049 metal motor mounts (angle iron style for 1/2A profile C/L
    planes) and on the bottom I trimmed the pylon to match the wing shape.
    I put about an inch of 1/16th" sheeting sticking out both sides and
    fiberglassed it in place. I then used foam rubber glued to the bottom
    (wing side) to dampen vibration and a piece of 1/16th" wire through the
    middle of the pylon and bent back to hook over the wing dowels
    (sticking out the fuselage sides). I had a slot cut in the center of
    the pylon and the crossing rubber bands went through this and the base
    stuck out enough that the straight front to back ones overlapped it.
    The 4 minute engine run with my TeeDee .049 and tank mount got me as
    high as I could want from my "too small for a hi-start" field.

    Thanks for the information, Jim.  If my solution does not work then I
    will follow your suggestion.
    
    I am also considering buying a Cox tank w/ motor mount and screwing it
    onto a Sig power pod.
    
    Regards, 
    
    Ollie

    Well I got my Christmas present early, a Spirit 100.  Its the Pikes
    Peak Soaring Society winter project.  We have about 10 abuilding.
    
    From looking at the instructions, plans and starting to punch out the
    balsa, I would say that it looks like an interesting kit.  Not for a
    first time builder however.  There are too many choices in building
    that are not particularly well described, and there are a few small
    details missing in the instructions.  
    
    Construction choices:
    
    1.  Obviously, sports wing or advanced wing
    
    2a. If advanced wing, the supplied wood has a slight polyhederal, but 
        the instructions suggest that you can build it with dihedral wings 
        by cutting straight joiners from scrap plywood. 
    
    2b. If sports wing, spoilers. 
    
    3.  Rubber band or bolt on wing.  (I would be interested in any comments
        on which is best and why)
    
    4.  Optional ballast box over CG.
    
    5.  Type of pushrod to use.  
    
    Sports wing with spoilers has other constraints, because the spoiler
    servo displaces the radio.  The radio can be moved back to where the
    ballast box would be if it is not included, otherwise it has to be put
    aft of the ballast box behind the CG.  Aft of the ballast box leads to
    some long wires that have to trail over the ballast box.  As this is
    the configuration I am thinking of building, and I would like to
    include the ballast box, I am in a quandry.  
    
    One solution may be to cut of the mounting brackets on the spoiler
    servo, stick it to the forward bulkhead with servo tape and then try to
    squeeze a micro receiver in behind it.  
    
    BTW, the kit contains enough wood for one wing and some.  If you built
    the sports wing first, as I will probably do, you are left with the
    ribs and inner trailing edge.  Most of the wood you would have to buy
    to build the advanced wing is standard, the only problem is with the
    leading edge, and the backside of the flaps and ailerons.  
        

    
    On the Spirit. I built the bolt down wing and I hated it because on
    every bumpy landing something would crack around the bolt down plate
    area. I suspect similar problems on the 100. I finally switched to
    rubber bands. I'm a beginner pilot so I have bumpy landings often.
    Also the bolts will never break, they are to thick.
    
    I managed to squeeze an s133 and the radio into the front compartment
    on the spirit. I would think you could do the same on the 100. I did
    this by velcroing the radio sideways to the wall (it was NOT a micro
    rx) and the servo attached to the other wall. I had to trim some of the
    canopy balsa base so the servo arm didn't hit it.
    

    If you're going to build the poly (sport?) wing version, I'd forget
    about the spoilers and go with flaps. More versatile, actually does
    you some good on launch, better landing control, can be used to enhance
    thermalling characteristics. Spoilers are an anachronism.
    
    Also, the bolt on wing is far superior to the rubber bands
    aerodynamically, structurally, esthetically.
    
    The Spirit 100 is a good blending of the old time U.S. thermal duration
    philosophy with more modern multi-task capabilities. Don't handicap it
    by veering toward the former when you could be experiencing the
    advantages of the latter.IMHO.
    
    Terry

    I had not thought of doing flaps on the Sports wing, and neither had
    Great Planes, it is not an option that they support, but it is an
    interesting idea.  I don't know whether it would work.  I will
    investigate further.
    
    The other possible option for putting the receiver forward of the
    ballast box is to build it with rubber band wings and put the receiver
    where the front wing bolt plates go.  However this requires rubber band
    wings.  
    
    I had thought of doing the velcro mounted receiver along side a servo,
    but I was unsure of using a micro servo for the spoilers, after all
    there is quite a lot of friction in the spoiler tubes.  
    
    The other thing that I did not say, and a primary reason why I would
    not recomend it to beginners is that they only have the plan for half
    the wing.  They are not very clear on how you build the other half of
    the wing.  They do have plans for two half wings, the sports wing and
    the advanced wing, but they are both the right half wing.  If they had
    done the left half wing of one and the right half wing of the other,
    you could probably have built the wing on the plan as I think that the
    rib spacing and the outline are the same for both wings.
    

    Well now that I am home and looking at the plans, I can see that I am
    wrong about the two wing halves being for the right wing.  There is a
    right sports wing and a left advanced wing.  Well that answers one
    problem.  
    
    On flaps with the sports wing, I took the root wing caps and compared
    them.  The two wing sections do different things just about where the
    flap hinge is, and where the advanced wing has extra wood to make up
    for this.  If you used these pieces with the sports wing, you may have
    a tricky sanding job to get the wing section right.  I am not going to
    try it first time around. 

    I've flown my 2 meter all season with flaps and it's one of the best
    mods I put in. Mine started life as a Gentle Lady kit but nothing
    remains original. The fuselage was lengthened, rudder enlarged, and the
    flaps added. The wing is a S3021 airfoil and I can get a great launch
    by dropping the flaps about 3/16". It launches much higher this way. I
    also have reflex and they drop a full 90 degrees for those steep, slow
    decents for landing points (with down elevator mixed in to push the
    nose down). Flaps on a poly wing are a lot of fun and worth the extra
    work. Mine are the last 2" of the ribs. I use aileron linkage to move
    them and have the servo mounted in the wing center section.
    
    Actually, while reading these last few, I didn't understand why someone
    didn't suggest a wing mounted servo for either flaps or spoilers...

    As for building the other half of the wing, here's an old trick...
    
    (warning, this method basically destroys the plans.  Make a copy first
    if you want to save them.  Also, try this on a corner first, in case
    the paper doesn't allow this to work.)
    
    - Cut the wing plan off of the rest of the set of plans.
    - Once you have built the panel on the front side turn the plans upside
    	down on your building surface.  
    - Apply light coating of vegetable oil to the back side of the plans. 
    	spread it around, but don't use too much.  Let the plans soak the
    	oil up.
    - Once you can see the ink from the other side through the paper, wipe
    	off as much oil as you can.
    - Cover the plan with wax paper and start building other half.
    
    
    A bit messy, but usually very effective..
    
    cheers,
    jeff
    

    
    	to add to Jeff's note...  Once building is completed, if you roll
    the plan up you can fill the center with Speedy Dry or Kitty Litter
    and this (over time) will soak up the majority of the oil.  If you can 
    place the prepared plan in a warm space (attic in the summer) the
    process goes much quicker.
    
    
    							Tom

    I've heard the oil trick works real well. Another person once said they
    made the plans go transparent with clear dope... Pam cooking spray is
    just an aerosol oil and might make it less messy/more even.
    
    Generally, I just reverse leading/trailing edge positions and go at it.
    The spars are already positioned by the notches and you just really
    need the rib spacing/alignment which should be perpendicular to the
    leading and/or trailing edge.

    re .17
    
    What's to prevent you from building the inboard wing panel as an
    advanced wing, using the extra pieces to build the flaps as per the
    plan, and then building the outboard panels as the sport wing without
    the ailerons ?
    I was under the impression that the advanced wing has about the same
    polyhedral as the aileron wing, or so it appears from the pictures.
    
    As Jim says, mounting the flap servo upside down in the center section
    is the best way to do it. That way the servo stays in the wing and
    simplifies the linkage.
    
    Of course all this is easier said than done, if you've never seen/done
    it. But it's not difficult at any rate.
    
    Terry

    Different ribs for the two wings probably means that the advanced ribs
    are cut to allow a flap hinge piece. You could modify the poly wing
    using the advanced wing as a template pretty easily. Well worth the
    extra hour of head scratching in the long run.
    
    The way I figured it with mine was that worst case, I locked the flaps
    in the normal position and I hadn't lost anything. It gives you
    something to grow into and once you use them, you'll put them on every
    ship you build in the future. Makes a nice transition to the advanced
    wing.
    
    Another trick I've been doing is either copying the parts or cutting
    new ones and keeping the originals as templates for repairs. Doing that
    you could end up with three wings: stock poly, poly with flaps,
    advanced with flaps and ailerons.

I don't disagree with any of the previous notes however...



Here is what I suggest.

Pick a wing type from the listed options and follow the instructions
to the letter.

Bye          --+--
Kay R. Fisher  |
---------------O---------------
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    I talked to Sal last night at NorthEast Sailplanes (more on that in
    another topic) I asked him about the Spirit 100 and he said that he
    wasn't too impressed. The 7037 airfoil is good for the type of ship
    this is supposed to be but the built up wing ends up with who knows
    what airfoil. He said that they would have been better off sheeting the
    entire wing since the cap strips come in an area where the airfoil is
    critical and suddenly you've got a varying airfoil due to the dips
    between the cap strips. He said that the 3010 wing performs much better
    overall and most people have gone and built that less critical wing and
    been happy. Keep in mind that Sal doesn't carry this plane and it is
    undercutting most of his standard class ships (which is why people are
    looking at them). He said that a set of foam wing cores with the 7037
    airfoil would improve the characteristics of that version due to
    having the airfoil written on the ribs...
    

    Well I finished my Spirit 100 today.  Bolt on Sports wing with
    spoilers.  Finished weight 49.5 oz which includes about 4 oz of lead in
    the nose.  The box gives the finished weight as 50-65 oz.  
    
    For pushrods I used Sullivans steel wire in plastic.  I was very
    unimpressed with their suggestion for how to build the rudder pushrod. 
    They kit it with a hole for the pushrod casing that comes out of the
    top surface in front of the beginning of the vertical fin which lets
    the unsupported pushrod flop around for 7 inches before it gets to the
    rudder.  A neighbour had used solid nonflexible wire in a plastic
    casing.  I put an extra bit of balsa on the fuse top alongside the
    vertical fin and then cut a long hole in it using a sharpened brass
    tube.  the pushrod casing went in this hole.  
    
    The other fun part was getting the servos in.  There are four bays
    ahead of the leading edge of the wing.  The first is for weights.  The
    second is for battery.  The third and fourth are for rx and servos.  I
    originally intended to put 2 standard servos in the third bay for
    rudder and elevator and then put a mini rx and mini servo for servos
    for spoilers in the fourth bay.  However standard servos do not fit
    into the third bay, you have to use minis.  So I put a standard rx in
    the third bay, two standard servos in the fourth bay and then put the
    mini spoiler servo (an Airtronics 141) sideways behind them.  It is a
    close fit but it seems to work.  
                          

The July 92 issue of R/C Soaring Digest has an article on Spirit 100
construction tips.



Bye          --+--
Kay R. Fisher  |
---------------O---------------
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>                                              <<< Note 1321.35 by LEDS::KLINGENBERG >>>
>                                               -< Where can I borrow RCSD 7/8/1992? >-
...
>    Is anybody willing to loan to me the July and August issues of RCSD to get
>    me a copy of the construction tips articles?

I'll get them tonight.

Bye          --+--
Kay R. Fisher  |
---------------O---------------
################################################################################

    Since noone has answered the last question so far, I'll add another one
    (go figure):
    
    Is anyone familiar with the differences between the Spirit and the
    Spectra (other than $ 25)? I'm looking into replacing my Elektro-UHU
    with a simple electric glider that I might use mainly for
    'Sunday-flying' or people that wnat to try their hands on the sticks.
    
    Are there any real differences between the kits that justify the $25?
    If it's just the motor and the harness (which I'd replace with a BEC
    controller anyway), I might as well save the 25 dollars, do the
    modification myself and invest in a better motor.
    
    Suggestions welcome!
    
    Best regards,
                  Hartmut

    Sorry Kay, conflicting entries! Thanks for looking for the RCSDs!
    
    Hartmut

RE: Note 1321.37 by LEDS::KLINGENBERG
>>                  -< Spirit and Spectra - what's different? >-

    I own one of each (thanks to the George Mills "clearance sale").

    The Spirit is a 2 meter glider (no motor).

    The Spectra is a Spirit that has the nose modified to accept an
    electric motor.

                                    - Dan

    Hi Dan, good to hear from you! We need to get in touch anyway to
    discuss plans for KRC! 
    
    Thanks for your reply, but that's about what I knew. My question is: Is
    there any significant difference in the design (different fuselage to
    accomodate batteries, shorter nose, beefed up structure, whatever), or
    is it just minor (Miner?) changes that I could do myself on a Spirit
    kit and save a few bucks and getting an Astro motor instead of the
    Goldfire. I'd love to check your planes out and compare them (and the 
    plans/instructions), if possible.
    
    Best regards,
                   Hartmut

RE: Note 1321.40 by LEDS::KLINGENBERG
    Hartmut,

    There are some modifications to the fuselage.  I didn't build either
    of these and haven't really even looked over the plans too much yet.
    (I bought them from George completely built.)

    Perhaps we could get together for dinner sometime soon and you could
    look them over?  Let's talk about this off-line through e-mail.

    RE: KRC.  It looks at the moment as I will not be able to go (again)
    this year.  :-(  The money is just too tight in the budget right
    now although I might be able to figure it out between now and then.

                       _____
                      |     \
                      |      \                          Silent POWER!
      _        ___________    _________   |            Happy Landings!
     | \      |           |  |         |  |
     |--------|-  SANYO  + ]-|  ASTRO  |--|              - Dan Miner
     |_/      |___________|  |_________|  |
                      |       /           |     " The Earth needs more OZONE,
                      |      /                       not Castor Oil!! "    
                      |_____/

    Was just browsing the other day ( I do get some time at home! ) when I
    realised that we had not mentioned the 2M Spirit recently.
    
    JUst thought you might like to know about it's aerobatic performance.
    
    I've had mine a couple of years now and I keep it as a good old
    standby. Getting bored with mooching around the sky a month ago in a 10
    - 15 mph wind at Beacon Hill ( I only slope soar ) I got to trying to
    find the aerobatic limits of this plane.
    
    Mine does consecutive inside loops, spins quite well, does outsde loops
    and will even go from outside loop to inverted and maintain it for a
    short while. I have not managed any decent sort of roll yet.
    
    JUst in case you are begining to disbelieve me - I do have a one piece
    wing and it is glassed with .6 oz and epoxy on the centre section.
    
    This plane will not tuck under - I can just push it thru to completye
    an outside loop - great.
    
    Unfortunately, I had not built it for aerobatics and on my last flight
    ( of course it was the last one ) the battery pack came lose and I lost
    the plane over the back of the hill when the elev servo went full up
    and the rudder full right!!!!!
    
    I thought it would be comprehensively re-kitted whenit went looping
    over the back of the hill but 1/2 hour later I had retrived it and it
    had just broken the wing at the outer dihedral break - simple Zap and
    film patch job.
    
    They certainly bounce well when they are light.
    
    Thinks - maybe I should build an aerobatic machine for even more fun ..
    
    ;-)
    
    Brian
    

I've done the battery eject manuever while sloping my Ninja. Didn't help 
my CG much 8^)

    That's a neat show maneuver. I once watched a guy at our club launch a
    Delta plane (don't remember the name) from Robbe. It had a pusher prop
    running full bore and started at a fairly steep angle. The construction
    this poor guy had done on the plane was sloppy, though. The wind picked
    the canopy and threw it away, and the receiver pack followed directly.
    The CG was WAY wrong now, the plane came down like a limp leaf, still
    being heavily pushed by an uncontrollable engine. Too funny...

    LIMP LEAF!
    
    I must stow that one away for future use!.
    
    E

    Hmmmm. I just completed a Spirit recently, and found it to be a pretty
    docile plane, not very aerobatic at all. Couldn't get it to do an
    outside loop. Doesn't penetrate very well either. It weighs about 32
    oz, so maybe I should try ballesting it up.
    
    The Spirit is notorious for shedding batteries in flight. That canopy
    is pretty loose, so I took the precaution of securing the battery pack
    with a couple of balsa sticks glued over it.
    
    Dave
    

Seemed to "penetrate" ok on the first flight...

    Yea, The aerobatics got so violent that the pilot ejected!  And the
    penetration was fine!  However the flight was very short.  That poor
    Spirit couldn't take Jim's winch with a stuck solonoid. :-(
    
    
    Charlie
    

    The wing loading of mine is 7.3 ozs per square foot - up to 10 mph it's
    OK but I really have to fly it down above this - the aerobatics are the
    easiest way to lose height!!!!!!
    
    Brian