Conference vmszoo::rc

Finally got my hands on my new Masterscale P-51 kit last night and, though I
haven't had a chance to "really" go through it yet, I thought I'd give y'all 
a few "first impressions of it.  The basic vitals are:  span-75", wt:-~15 lbs,
engine: .90-1.08.  Scale is ~ 1/6.

First thing I noticed was Mark's Models has either sold out the old JEMCO
designs (if not the entire business) or has changed it's name to Dynaflite.
The kit retails for $295.00 but can be had from Tower Hobbies for $279.00
per their latest catalog (the BIG one for `88).  I really lucked out and got
mine for a piddling $100.00...I even offered the guy more (out of guilt) but
he'd have none of it.  Obviously, I'm not crying about it.

The kit is packed in two ~ 9 x 9 x 48" boxes with the plans, instructions and 
all balsa/ply parts and hardware packages in one box and all the molded parts,
canopies, etc. in the other.  Right off I was surprised to notice that canopies
are supplied for all three major Mustang variants; the "greenhouse" with rear 
side-windows for the A, B/C models (only difference in the B & C was point of 
manufacture and, maybe, prop), a Malcom hood for use with the A, B/C windscreen
and rear window glazing and, of course, the familiar bubble canopy for the D
model.  I intend to do a B with the Malcom hood, always my favorite variant.
I've found a color drawing of a B/Malcom from the 8th Air Force done in Olive-
drab/light grey with D-Day invasion stripes, 8-kill markers, "many" bomb mission
markers and the "appropriate" name, "Shanty Irish" on the nose with a Shamrock-
in-a-circle personal nose-art badge.  If I can find additional (and adequate)
documentation on this bird, this is the one I want to replicate.

So far, the thing I like best about this kit is that it is "almost" all balsa.
I'm not too crazy about the fact that the upper and lower nose as well as the 
belly scoop is largely shaped with vacuum molded ABS plastic but the construc-
tion drawings/photos show these pieces well supported/braced by internal struc-
ture so they may work out OK.  Bare minimums, I'll fiberglass the ABS pieces on
the inside with 2-oz. cloth to give them a little more strength/crack-resistance
or, if I think it's necessary, use them as plugs to make fiberglass parts or re-
place them, altogether, with built-up wood structure...we'll have to wait `til 
I get that far to know for sure what makes the most sense.  Other than this, I
think I'm gonna' like the kit as a whole: parts are provided for building the
cockpit, exhaust manifolds/fairings, gear-door liners, auxilliary tanks and/or
bombs, gun fairings, etc., etc.  They even show you how to rig a functional/
scale exhaust system (I may not use this - I have it on the MiG-3 and it's neat
but awfully messy; exhaust residue gets EVERYWHERE), sequence the inner/outer
gear door operation and more.  

In glancing through the instruction package, it appears that Jim Meister tried
to cover virtually all the bases to produce a highly accurate/detailed model of
the P-51.  He's included instructions for creating panel lines, rivets, many 
other surface details, applying lettering and markings and weathering.  Many of 
his techniques are identical to those I use and have described in this Scale 
column.  Others, which I find to differ (or be alternative/better methods), I'll
pass along in this topic as I run into them.  Don't get too anxious, however...
I want to get my current old-timer Playboy project off the bench before starting
construction on the Mustang so it'll be toward the end of the year before you
start seeing progress reports.

Meantime, as I dig through the kit in more depth and study the construction se-
quence, I'll report any items of interest, pro-or-con, that I run into.  In par-
ting, my wife is glad I'm building an American fighter...while she likes it, she
has always thought of the MiG-3 as "that dirty Commie airplane."

Adios for now,	Al

    Attn: Bob Day,
    
    I couldn't access yer' node (KERNEL::) on VAX-mail for some reason
    so I'll put this in the scale topic as it is somewhat germane to
    the subject.
    
    In the batch of RCM&E's you sent me, the mag's plans service has
    a plan I'd really be interested in seeing/buying.  However, it looks
    a little "fiddly" [to use one of yer' euphemisms] to order from
    outside the U.K.  Any chance I could get you to consider ordering
    the plan and sending it along to me [for appropriate compensation,
    of course]??
    
    Naturally, the first requirement would be that the plan is still
    available...it was as of the `86 issues of RCM&E but could be out
    of print presently.  Anyhoo, the one I'm interested in is "Plan
    RC/1378," a 74" span P-51B Mustang designed by Dave Vaughan, described
    as a "super scale replica for .60 motors and 4-7 function R/C."
    
    The size is perfect for what I've determined to be the optimum-size
    scale fighter and nothing in that size is available [that I'm aware
    of} here.  Also, the fact that it is designed for a .60 indicates
    to me that it has been engineered with weight-conciousness firmly
    in mind, another approach I happen to subscribe to.  I'd likely
    put a .90 in it and appreciate the lightweight airframe and potential
    for favorable weight/power loadings.  
    
    If there's a way you could assist this American Cuzzin', please
    lemme' know how we could go about it.
    
    Gracias amigo,	Al

    Randy,
    
    The Top Flite P-51 is also pretty loose, scale-wise.  It'd be fine
    for developing/experimenting with finishing techniques but don't
    expect it to be competitive beyond the fun-scale level.
    
    The two best (most accurate) P-51's around at the moment are the
    Masterscale P-51 from Dynaflite and the Dave Platt P-51.  Either
    of these will, however, be much more work intensive and require
    a higher degree of piloting skills.
    
    Hope this helps you amke the decision of how to get the project
    started.

      |
      | |      00	 Adios,      Al
    |_|_|      ( >o
      |    Z__(O_\_	(The Desert Rat)

Thanks Al.

I'm not looking for a competetive model yet. I want a good flier that I can
practice technique on. I plan to do a full scale finish on a fun-scale type
airframe. I am currently leaning to reproducing the "Big Beautiful Doll" which
just happens to be the ship in full color on the front of "P51 in Action". I
think it has one of the more pleasing (read interesting but not gaudy) paint
schemes from WWII.

Does anyone know of other sources of color photos of this ship or any others
from the same squadron? Also does anyone have a phone number for Top Flite?
I'd like to give them a call and see if the B to D conversion kit is still
available.

Keep the info coming.

Randy

    Randy,
    
    For a pure, out-and-out fun-scale Mustang that looks nearly as good
    (better, in my opinion) in outline and is a friendly, forgiving
    flier, I'd sure recommend the "Fun Scale Mustang .40" or (my
    preference) "Fun Scale Mustang .60" from Dynaflite.  These kits
    can be had from Tower for $39.99 and $54.99 respectively.  They
    are very simple to build and look and fly great.  Ask the man who
    flew one...., how 'bout a testimonial, Snoman?? 

      |
      | |      00	 Adios,      Al
    |_|_|      ( >o
      |    Z__(O_\_	(The Desert Rat)

    Randy,
    
     Al's recommendation on the .60 size DYNAFLITE is a good one!
    I'm presently building one and the instructions and the wood
    quality are pretty good. It is going together pretty well with
    not alot of detail. Two guys in one of the clubs I fly in have
    a Dynaflite Mustang and they love them. I think Dan Snow built
    one also, Charlie Watt was tellin' me........ Charlie suggested
    running a .60 4-stroke in it. I have a K&B .61 2-stroke that I bought for
    my TOP-FLIGHT CORSAIR, I was thinking of putting it in the Mustang
    but after running the ENYA .90 4-stroke in my GOLDBERG ANIV. CUB,
    I might just pick up the .60 4-stroke for the mustang! I love the
    sound of them 4-strokes and they seem to run pretty well.
     whatever you decide, I wish you luck and lots of fun in the air! 
    
    	Regards,
    
    		Tom

RE:Note 1022.2                   Mustangs, Info wanted                      

>Does anyone know of other sources of color photos of this ship or any others
>from the same squadron? Also does anyone have a phone number for Top Flite?
>I'd like to give them a call and see if the B to D conversion kit is still
>available.

Hi Randy,
if your looking for color photos of mustangs in general you might take a 
gander at one of the scale documentation catalogs. The one I have is from
Scale Model Research. A quick check shows photo paks available for two P-51B's,
one P-51C, and twenty seven different P-51D's. They also offer a three-view to
go along with most of the photo paks. I've delt with SMR with good luck. There's
another company with a name like Scale photo and Plans Service that's probably
another good place to look.

Good luck,

Dan Eaton

Thanks to all who offered advise on possible kits. After reviewing all the
input, both from here, and knowledgeable parties in my club, I decided on the
Top-Flite. For all of those who recommended the Dynaflite thanks, your input
was heard and appreciated. The final deciding factor was that both of the local
people who will be giving me advice/help and perfroming the initial test flights
prefer the Top-Flite.

So, I ordered the plane from Phylin' Phil - it should be here Thursday. Sheldon's
did indeed have the B-to-D conversion kit, so that too is on the way. 
 
If there is any interest I will post progress reports from time to time.

Thanks for all the help.

Randy

Ok, I'm game.

Mssrs. Moderators, if you think this ought to be a note unto itself feel free
to move it and give it a more appropriate title.

Now, for the first installment.

As I have mentioned this is to be a practice model for a Master Scale Mustang
to be done sometime in the future. Thanks to John Tavares I now have copies
of two scale plan and photo catalogs. Both have 15 to 20 D series Mustangs,
but of course neither have the one I want, or any one from the same squadron.
One of them (I don't remember which) does have a set of generic details and
I plan to get that and a 3-view. I'll post the specifics and my impressions of
them when they arrive. The Squadron Signal book "P51 Mustang in Action" does 
have a fair color painting on the cover and a nice 90 degree b&w side shot
inside as well as some textual description so I ought to be able to do a fair
job on matching the color scheme. I'll continue to research other sources as I
really like this particular plane and would like some better color renditions
to work from. The plane is Col. J.D. Landers "Big Beautiful Doll", squadron
designation WZ(star)I. If anyone has or knows of any documentation on this plane
please let me know.

Now, on to construction. Before I start building I want to get a wing and fuse
jig. The Adjusto-Jig looks to be pretty good, so I'll probably order one from
Tower. Any comments on this or any other would be appreciated. I haven't run
across a topic on jigs. If there is one a pointer would be nice, if not
perhaps someone would like to start one?

Thats all for now. I'll give another installment on the quality of the kit on 
Friday if it arrives as promised on Thursday.

Randy 

Randy - here's something else to think about.

I have an Adjusto jig and it is handy and I like using it - BUT...

Don't assume that you can use the Adjusto or any other specific jig
on the Mustang.  Some wing designs are significantly more difficult
to put on a jig than others.  The easiest is a constant cord that
you design yourself.  That way you can put the spars in places that
will be out of the way of the jig rods.  If you're wing has a straight
leading edge or straight trailing edge you can live with that.
Taper is more difficult.  Some experts can get ANY wing on a jig.
I can't.  I would bet that the mustang would be a difficult wing to
get on a jig.  The central problem would be how to determine accurately
where to drill the holes in the ribs for the jig rods.

Bye          --+--
Kay R. Fisher  | Who wishes all instructions had sections for building on a jig!
---------------O---------------
================================================================================

Well, the kit and the conversion package arrived on Friday and I've had the
weekend, excluding flying time of course, to examine both.

Overall I'm somewhat disappointed with them. Perhaps I'm spoiled, but the
quality of the wood, die-cutting, and the instructions is not what I'm used to.
I've built 2 Great Planes and 1 Goldberg kit and the Top Flite can't hold a
candle to either in any of the listed categories. Nothing is wrong, it just
doesn't measure up to the extreme quality of the Goldberg or GP kits.

The kit is fairly complete as such things go, and the instructions are
adequete if you've built enough other kits to know how one goes together. I'd
guess one needs at least two or three of the trainer/intermediate type kits
under one's belt before it would be reasonable to attack a kit like this. As a
for-instance, there is no mention of glassing the wing center section.

On the plus side the outline is pretty good. I haven't got my scale 3-views
yet, so I can't tell how accurate it is, but one of the guys at the field says 
that this line of kits was designed by Dave Platt for TF and is pretty accurate,
except of course for minor changes necessary to improve flight characteristics.
The wing tips, ailerons and flaps are pre-shaped, the rest of the beast is built
up of sheet and block balsa, with a lot of sanding and carving necessary.

All-in-all I think I can build a respectable sport-scale ship out of the kit,
assuming that I apply a lot of patience. I did a little building last night,
gluing the doublers and such on the Fuse sides. I need to get some replacements
for the wing spars, as they are too warped to be used, and then I can start on
the wing. Installing retracts ought to be lots of fun, but Phil doesn't think
there will be any problem.

I've decided to waive the wing jig. This beastie has a double taper wing with a
kink about 1/3 of the way out on the leading edge, so I'll take Kay's advice and
just do it carefully by hand. I'm going on a weeks and a half vacation so I
won't be doing much more work 'till I get back. I'll update you all then on any
progress.

Randy 

Since the last installment I have:
	1. Finished the basic fuse. This wasn't to difficult, involving only
	   the gluing of the ply/balsa fuse formers to the balsa sides. I was
	   somewhat surprised that there were no triangle stock braces on any of
	   the formers. Being paranoid I added 1/4 inch braces to the rear
	   formers and 3/8 to the two that carry the maple engine mounts.

	2. Left wing panel completed, right started. Nothing out-of-the-ordinary
	   here. I have omitted all parts pertaining to landing gear. I'll have
	   to do some customization when the Spring Air retracts come in.

Next steps are to:
	1. Finish the right wing panel and put the wing up until the retracts
	   come in.

	2. Devise a steerable tail wheel assembly that can be placed at the
	   proper location. The kit shows either a fixed tail wheel at the
	   scale location or a steerable one at the end of the fuse a-la a
	   Cub. Any suggestions on how to do this are welcome.

	   Attach the nose, turtledeck, and radiator blocks and sand, sand, sand

It'll be a little while before I do more work as I crashed my Trainer 40
last Saturday and I want to get it repaired before the weekend.

Randy

In looking at this note I see its been a long time since the first update. Well,
since then...
	1. The Spring Air retracts I wanted turned out to be very hard to
	   locate. My pusher, Phlyin Phil, has wholesale accounts at both 
	   Great Planes (Tower) and SIG, but neither carry the line any more.
	   He finally contacted Spring Air directly and ordered them. He also
	   found that, for reasons unexplained, the manufacturer has severed
	   relations with both companies. The only mail order house/distributor
	   he works with now is Sheldons.

	   Anyway, the retracts came in last week. I spent Saturday and
	   Sunday (about 10 hours) getting the first one in. After trashing and
	   replacing 3 ribs I finally got it right. The second went in in only
	   2 hours. There's just barely enough room, but they're in and look
	   great.

	2. Last night was spent in installing the flap and aileron servos and
	   getting associated pushrods in place. What a pain!. There aren't any
	   holes in the ribs so I had to make em. The results work, and the
	   structural integrity of the wing is fine, but to me it looks sloppy.
	   I laid the rods across the top of the ribs from the servo to the
	   bellcrank and marked the line of travel. I cut holes in the ribs
	   below the mark and ran the rods. I then enlarged the holes until the
	   rods ran free. It works, but as I said it aint pretty. For future
	   reference - does anybody have a more accurate/neater method?

	3. While waiting for the retracts I constructed a cockpit console which
	   looks pretty good for a scratched effort, acquired and painted a
	   pilot, and fabricated an armored seat back that is much closer to 
	   scale than that supplied with the kit. All thats left in the cockpit
	   is to detail the radio and fabricate the seat proper and headrest. 

	4. Phlyin' Phil has some Robart diamond tread scale wheels on order.
	   I need them to fabricate the wheel wells before I can sheet the wing.
	   While I'm waiting I'll to clean up the wing, add some shear webs
	   (the kit doesn't provide or call for them), and add some backing for
	   the flap and aileron hinges. The wing trailing edge is 1/8 X 5/8
	   soft balsa. It doesn't inspire much confidence in its load bearing
	   capabilities.

I guess thats about enough for now. More in a month or two.

Randy

First the questions.

	1. Did anyone tape last nights "Wings" on Mustangs? I only noticed it
	   was on by accident and didn't get the whole thing. If anyone got it
	   I'd sure like a copy and would be happy to send a tape.

	2. This isn't really a question, I'll be in the Marlboro-Westboro
	   area next week. Anything interesting going on? I arrive on
	   Monday and will be leaving early Saturday afternoon. I notice that 
	   the Club meeting is Tuesday night. May I come? If so how do I get
	   to where it is?  Thanks.

Now on to the update on the Top-Flite Mustang...

After getting the wing nearly ready to sheet I decided I wasn't at all pleased
with the retract or servo mounting schemes so, I cut a new set of ribs and
am in the process of re-building the wing. I cut several extra of each rib and
have built a mock-up on which to test various ideas I have on mounting retracts
and servos. I now have a retract mount that I like and am working on the servos.

Other than that I have been so busy rebuilding planes so I have something to
fly that I haven't got anything else done. More later

Randy

    Randy,
    		You may want to take a ride to Hanscom airfield. It's
    in the area adjacent to RT 95. Back in 83 there used to be a 
    Mustang hangered there. One hanger over from the DEC hanger. Id'
    call DEC aviation services and ask them. They may know.
    
    
    Tom

    John,
    
    First I should tell you up front that any scale ship that meets your
    first criteria (scale/accuracy) just flat will not meet your third
    criteria (ease of building).  It's just a fact of life that the more
    accurate the model, the more building will be required.  With that out
    of the way, we'll get along to your question.
    
    The engine size you indicate narrows the field quite nicely.  I know of
    only one P-51 kit that falls into the correct size range for the O.S.
    Max .90 2-cycle engine.  Additionally, it's a pretty good/complete kit
    which will build about as easily as any, maybe a bit easier.  The kit I
    speak of is the Jim Meister designed Masterscale P-51 which I think is
    kitted nowadays by (I think) Mark's Models.
    
    The kit is mostly of conventional balsa/ply construction with a lot of
    ABC moldings to take the pain out'a carving/sanding the more complex
    shapes so vital to the overall beauty of the Mustang.  (Frankly, I
    _prefer_ the balsa blocks, sheeting, strip-planking, etc. of yore to
    plastics but I know many newer modelers like the stuff.)  For a scale kit,
    the plans are excellent with numerous easy-to-interpret isometric
    drawings by Jim to explain/detail the fine points of the trickier areas
    of construction.
    
    As is the case with ANY P-51 which claims to be accurate, the placement
    of the landing gear is a problem.  The -51's gear sat so close to the
    leading edge of the wing that it's virtually impossible to locate any
    brand of retract unit far enough forward.  Jim shows an alternate
    (semi-scale) location for the gear but, if you want it right up on the
    L.E. per full-scale, Jim also shows a lash-up you can make to get the
    strut up where it belongs while driving it with a retract unit located
    a bit aft in the thicker portion of the wing.  Were I you, I think I'd
    opt for the semi-scale location as it doesn't detract from the scale 
    appearance all that much (it'd take a purist to spot it) and, once
    airborne with the gear up, it looks identical to the more scale
    version.
    
    The scale gear location is more for the contest-minded modeler to
    garner maximum static points as virtualyy any judge worth his salt
    _knows_ about this feature of the Mustang and the many ways it's been
    gotten around.  Therefore, he's bound to spot the compromise but, even
    if you wanted to compete occasionally, the semi-scale location will
    only cost a point or so of static.
    
    The Masterscale Mustang is as accurate as they come, arguably as good
    (or better) than Platt's 1/5 scale, 84" version though I've watched
    Platt and Meister almost come to blows arguing whose was best.  I
    believe they're equally accurate...it's just a matter of size requirement.
    
    If you were inclined to scratch-build, Mike Beaulieu's plans service
    has a 75" P-51B plan available.  (BTW, the Masterscale kit yields a
    model with [as I recall] a 74" wingspan.)
    
    In either case, the model must be kept at a maximum of ~15-lbs to
    perform satisfactorily on a .90 2c.  A 1.08 will give you a little more
    tolerance, weight-wise, at no expense other than a slightly taller
    cylinder head which will fit a bit tighter, inverted in the cowling.
    A .90 will do fine, however...just be weight conscious as you build.
    
    There're some thoughts for you to mull over.  Let us know if there's
    anything else you need or if/when you assemble a plan to get the
    project started.
						 __
				|      |        / |\	   	       
      	         \|/		|______|__(o/--/  | \	   	       
      | |        00	       <|  ~~~  ____ 04 ---- | --------------------
    |_|_|        (O>o		|\)____/___|\_____|_/	   Adios amigos, Al
      |     \__(O_\_	        |	  |___/	 o	   (The Desert Rat)

    I am currently constructing a Dynaflite Scale P-51 Mustang.
    Has anyone out there ever constructed this particular kit?
    The manufacturer claims that a 40 - 60 size engine will
    fly this little beast.  I have a slightly used YS 60 engine
    that I would like to install.
    
    I am anticipating fitting problems because the documentation
    (what little there is) states that the engine compartment is
    designed for a K & B 40 and OS MAX 40 SFR.  I am really 
    looking forrward to installing the YS because of the anticipated
    vertical performance and other nifty things.
    
    I would appreciate any info anybody has regarding this puppy
    even if it's with a smaller engine than my YS 60.
    
    Mike L.

    What happened to this here Mustang file. Did any of these planes get
    finished ? I really would like to do a "B" model and the TOP_FLITE is
    the on that would fit my budget better. Speakin of Someday an comments
    on the Byron Mustangs or the EZ kits. That is in case I hit the
    lottery.
    Thanks

I haven't got beyond my last update. I've now got three flyable planes, with one
more on the way. Hopefully these will keep me flying through the winter so I can
finish the Mustang and begin work on an A10 (a joint project with my flying
buddy Steve Bittrolff).

    
    Picked up a Dynaflight 40 size Fun Scale Mustang at the WRAM show. I
    had flown a 60 size a couple of years ago. Loved the way it flew, but
    after about 6 flights stuck it straight in from about 30' due solely to
    pilot error.
    	I'm trying to decide now whether to be conservative and fly it with
    a 48 Surpass, or a little crazy and put a Super Tigre 61 in.
    Conservative? Me??? In either case I'd like to mount the engine
    inverted but was wondering if anyone has had experience running the
    Super Tigre's inverted. I'm planning to add flaps and a bomb drop as
    well. Should be able to get the plane flight ready under 4 pounds.
    
    	I'll probably start this after I finish the glider, which I plan to
    fly this week-end.

Hi,

Does anybody have any info or experiences with the Midwest Mustang (40).

I'd also like to know how much the kit costs over there + shipping charges to
the UK.

Thanks,

Ian.

    For all the supposed interest in Mustangs (doesn't *everyone*
    ultimately build a Mustang and a Cub?) this note has been devoid of
    much activity.  Since I'm in the process of building the Top Flight
    Golden Edition P-51D kit, I'll post some comments in here as I get the
    chance.
    
    I'm about half way thru with this 1/7 scale kit (65" wing), having completed
    construction of all the built up parts, ie, wing, fuse, tail feathers. 
    I have just over 100 hours invested so far, and am at the point of
    fitting the fuel system, retract system, and controls. I chose to put
    in a retractable tail wheel to enhance appearance when flying, but this
    was a very time comsuming task.  Then, in order to allow access to the
    tail wheel pneumatics in case service is ever needed, I built a very
    complicated hatch in the curved belly just forward of the tailwheel. 
    What a job that was, but it turned out pretty good.
    
    I built the nose section per the instructions and markings on the
    firewall, then read in the latest issue of RC Report that this will
    result in the engine shaft being 3/8 inch too high in the nose!! 
    Bummer.  Seems TF made a mistake in marking the position of the engine
    mount on the firewall.  I'm not sure how much this will degrade the
    scale appearance or the flight characteristics, but I ain't happy about
    it.
    
    There are many challanges to this project that I keep tackling as I go
    along.  The latest is how to hide the muffler for the YS120 I
    installed.  Its beginning to look like I'll have to hang it out the
    lower left side of the cowling, ugh!  No room inside for it.  BTW, what
    are people using for YS120 mufflers?  The engine comes without a
    muffler so I'm not committed to any particular one right now.  All I
    got was a curved header tube that attaches to the exhaust port and
    I assume a muffler goes on the end of this.  Right?
    
    I plan to paint this bird, so soon I'll be glassing, priming, etc.  I am
    reviewing many of the entries in "LET US SPRAY" to get familiar with
    this procedure.  
    
    I need additional help/info on the following if anybody can help:
    
    -Is a scale cockpit available, and from who?
    
    -Has anyone built this plane who can report on flight characteristics?
    
    -Any suggestions for an enclosed muffler?
    
    -Anyone got ducumentation on the "Big Beautiful Doll" version flown by
    Col Landers out of Duxford England?  That's the one I'm modeling.
    
    -Since I'll be adding on-board glow, I picked up a unit at an auction. 
    It says that it needs positive going pulses from the RX to operate. 
    Does JR use positive going pulses?  If not, guess this one is
    worthless.
    
    As usual, all help is much appraciated.
    
    Thanks,
    Joe  

>                                               <<< Note 1022.32 by MKOTS3::MARRONE >>>
>                                                       -< Top Flight P-51D >-
>
>    For all the supposed interest in Mustangs (doesn't *everyone*
>    ultimately build a Mustang and a Cub?)

I did.

...    
>    -Is a scale cockpit available, and from who?

Yes.  I forgot.

...
>    -Anyone got documentation on the "Big Beautiful Doll" version flown by
>    Col Landers out of Duxford England?  That's the one I'm modeling.

Yes.  I forgot.

Seriously - there is an outfit that advertises in EVERY "R/C Scale Modeler"
magazine for cockpits.  I believe he has the same molds that were furnished
with my Royal Zero.  It was kind of a pain to build but kinda fun too and
I was pleased with the end results.

Documentation should be easy - "Big Beautiful Doll" is probably the most
photographed Mustang of all time.  When Kevin and I went to the Scale
Masters in Dallis a few years ago Charley Chambers won with his version
of "Big Beautiful Doll".  

I'd be willing to bet that photo packs are available from both Bob Banka 
(Scale Model Research) and Jim Pepino (Scale Plans and Photo Service).

If your going to the RAM show both have had booths in the past and
bring lots of photo packs.

I just happen to have old versions of there catalogues right here and...

A quick look at Scale Plans and Photo Service - don't see "Big Beautiful Doll"
but I'll still bet he has a photo pack on it - I do see 26 other Mustang
photo packs.  If you can get to his booth and browse thru the photo packs
you may pick a different mustang!

A quick look at Scale Model Research - don't see "Big Beautiful Doll"
there either - but another 30 Mustang photo packs.

But like I said - I don't have the latest catalogues.

Give them a call...

Scale Model Research
2334 Ticonderoga Way
Costa Mesa, California 92626
  Bob Banka (714)979-8058

Scale Plans and Photo Service
3209 Madison Avenue
Greensboro, North Carolina 27403
  Jim Pepino (919)272-5239

My catalogue lists Dr. Lyle F. Pepino as President - but I could swear the guy
who really runs it is named Jim.

Both Bob and Jim are great guys to talk to and will tell you all about the
color schemes and which ones are easy to model and where the real planes
are located and etc.  Well worth a couple of phone calls.

But whatever you don't order a catalogue unless you like scale models :-)

I love the names on these mustangs...

Shangri-La
Bald Eagle
Cloud Dancer
Miss America
Glamorous Glenn III
Lou IV
Miss Coronado
Miss Suzanne
Minuteman
Rascal
Shark Jaws
Obsession
Paul I
Excalibur III
Heavy Metal
Man O' War
Flying Undertaker
Singapore Sally
Ho Hun
Cottonmouth
Double Trouble
Specter
Dago Red
Jeannie Too
Jolly Roger
Snoopy
Jumpin' Jacques
Skoal Bandit
What's Up Doc

So many airplanes - so little time.

Bye          --+--
Kay R. Fisher  |
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