Conference vmszoo::rc

    My hope's are to build a balsa USA EAA biplane. I have the kit,it
    just remains to find the time. I plane on useing sig coverall and
    alot of suggestions from the notes file on painting. I'm going to
    try for a metal flake green and white paint sceme(sp) with maybe
    a gold checker board under each wing and some red pin striping. 

    I'M ALMOST DONE MY FIRST RC PLANE. I'M COVERING MY
    "GOLDBERG EAGLE 63" WITH RED AND WHITE MONO......
    THE KIT WAS PRETTY EASY TO ASSEMBLE! THE DIE CUT
    PIECES WERE REAL EASY TO FIT. COVERING THE WING IS
    A LITTLE TRICKY BUT CAME OUT VERY WELL. I SHOULD BE DONE
    WITH THE REST THIS WEEKEND. I DON'T KNOW WHAT I'M GONNA
    BUILD FOR A SECOND PLANE YET BUT I'M SURE LOOKING FORWARD
    TO IT!!!!!
    
                   TOM
                  
    

    My ambition is to get off my dead-a** and finish my radio assisted
    antique old-time free flight, an 80" Playboy.  This will be powered
    by a replica Super Cyclone .61 on spark ignition and will have
    3-channels of control; rudder, elevator and engine cutoff.
    
    Once the Playboy is off the bench, I'm not sure whether to start
    a new Ugly-Stik [for water-flying] or an Andrews Aeromaster-II.
    I may do them both before launching into my next scale project which
    could be any of the following:
    
    	* 80" Hawker Hurricane (Mick Reeves kit or Brian Taylor plans)
    	* 75" P-51B Mustang (Masterscale kit)                         
    	* F-6-F Hellcat (Holman semi-kit)
    	* Macchi C-202 Folgore (from Dave Platt plans)
    
    Except for the Hellcat, these ships would all be O.S. 1.08 powered.
    The Hellcat would probably be powered by an O.S. .61FSR or long-stroke.
    
    Adios,	Al

    Well, I'm starting from ground zero.
    
    First, build the Goldberg Piper cub for next summer's flying
    (it's on order - I hope to get it in by Christmas)
    
    Also build me a flite-box. My mechanic want his tool box back 
    
    FInish the Scat Cat. I need expoxy for the wings (foam core).
    The stuff is in the same order as the Piper. I think I'm going to
    try my hand at spray painting on this one.
    
    Finally, get into the glider business with the Aquilla.
    
    md

                First I'll  fininsh  the  Robinhood  80 I bought from Dan
        Snow.  I'm  quite  far with it having covered the wing, installed
        the servos and the engine plus a number of other details.
        
                The real project is  to  build  a Royal Spitfire together
        with Bill Clark.  We  started last Wednesday.  It's going to be 5
        channels  with  retracts  and probably powered  by  a  1.20  four
        stroke.
        
                And then, of course, I'll be flying as much as I did over
        the summer.
        
        Anker

    1. Finish my basement (family room, office, shop, laundry)
    
    2. Great Planes Super Sportster 20, with OS 25FSR (already have
       the kit, I've hidden it out of sight to try to keep from starting
       it until #1 is well underway).
    
    3. Refurb my Kadet Mk II with on-board camera (Kodak disk) to do
       some more photography next year. Needs better shock mounting
       for the camera, plus the plane's been sitting for a year so it
       needs a good going-over.

    4. (unlikely to get to it) Experiment with UHF radio system
       - anybody got an old 4+ channel radio they'd let go real cheap?
    
    Dave Hughes

    1. Finish rebuilding the trusty PT40.  Its done except for repainting
    and putting it back together.  
    
    2. Finish new SIG Kougar, wing is done, fuse is 75%, and tail feathers
    are started.  I will be using the AL CASEY SUPER-COVERITE & SPRAY
    method of finishing.  Just sent order off today for an O.S. 46SF
    ABC and a Futaba 5NLP Conquest PCM radio.
    
    3. Would like to build a pattern ship like the FK AEROPLANE "Skyleader
    40" or some other 40 size mid wing ship would be tops.  Any body
    know any good ones?
    
    Chris

    
      My project this winter is to build my first scale aircraft.It
    will be the FLAIR "ETRICH TAUBE",I plan on putting the new O.S.
    45 four stroke in it(i can't think of the exact details),which
    is going to be my first time playing with a 4 stroke also.
      As for note .8 keep us informed as to how that SIG KOUGAR 
    handles when your finnished with it I'm a SIG fan.
    
    
                                  KEEP'EM FLYING
                                  JERRY

>    	What is everybody building this coming winter? I guess
>    this will turn out to be an updated who's who and what's being 
>    built.

I've been meaning to create this entry but Tom beat me to the stick.
This is timely since most of us know now what we've bought ourselves
for Christmas.

I really like reading about all the in progress projects but I warn you
that when you put an entry in here we'll keep you honest.  If you say
your building a Corsair we will hound you for progress reports, expect
pictures in the spring, and will look for your name in the national 
magazines.

I took Al's advice and ordered a Paasch(sp) model H air brush, and an
incidence meter.

I ordered a Great Planes Big Stick 20.  I plan to put it on skis
and put my JR single stick radio into it.  The goal is to get stick
time this winter so that I can effectively use the single stick
radio on a good scale ship in the spring.

I just (today) bought 3 used engines.  I'm looking into 60 powered
scale plans - I'll keep you posted.

I think I'll mount aluminum skis on the plane by making a 90 degree
bracket and putting two aluminum landing gear brackets on the plane.
Then screwing everything together.  I'll set it up as a tail dragger
tho in fact the tail won't touch the snow.  Any thoughts?

P.S.  I've got a gaggle of before, during and after pictures of the
Jeep.  I sent them to Al Casey.  If anybody wants to see them send me
mail.

              _!_      
Bye        ----O----   
Kay R. Fisher / \     

================================================================================

    RE .9
    Jerry,
    
    About the Kougar I'm building; its the only SIG kit (my 2nd plane)
    I've built.  Not as simple as the PT40, but I like it so far.  The
    instructions have you jumping around building different assemblies
    before you can complete any one section.
    
    As for flying,  I know 3 peole at our field with Kougars (1 has
    a 60 in it - a real screamer but glides like a rock), 1 with a Kobra,
    and 1 with a King Kobra.  They all swear by them, very aerobatic,
    nice slow landings, etc...   The King Kobra appears to be the best
    flyer, it just looks more stable (smooth)...probably due to its
    size.
    
    I'll keep you posted,
    Chris
    

    Well,
    	I guess the best way to get myself moving is to advertise my
    grand plans for the winter months:
    
    1. Finish my Tippo (only covering and painting left to do)
    
    2. Build my Aeromaster Bipe (kit in hand, not started yet)
    
    3. Keep out of trouble.
    
    
    Charlie
    

(Gad, not too many glider fans in this file.)

I just picked up a Top Flight Metrick 2 meter glider. This'll be the second
plane I've built, and just from the plans it looks like it'll be a
lot more tolerant of less-than-perfect landings than the last one. Just
for extra adventure I think I'll throw on the optional spoilers.

I just finished off a little side project that I installed in the first
plane. It's an onboard battery checker circuit. Using a few parts that were
available in our lab, I built a circuit that with the press of a button
will load down the battery and present it's status in a row of LEDs. In
an afternoon of flying, I can never really tell how low the batteries are
getting, so now I can check the discharge state in a few seconds.

Dave

	Over here we have a 51 week winter, so I get a fair bit
	of building time..... on the starting blocks we have:-

	1.. My 1/4 scale Bucker Jungmann. I've looked into the box
	    a few times and there's a lot of wood in there.. I'll
	    start this after the ----
                                     |
                                     V
					
	2.. 1/4 scale Extra 230 that Santa is going to slip under the 
	    Christmas tree for me... I think the box must be too big 
	    for Santa's sleigh, 'cos he's keeping it up in my loft for
	    now.. I'll put my OS 90fsr into this one, and the intention
	    is to finish it in the Jaguar colour scheme.

	3.. I picked up a Graupner/Heim Bell 222 fuselage kit the other
	    day.. If I can find sufficient pennies in the piggy bank I'll
	    get the machanics for it... Realistically this is a few months
	    away yet... But the epoxy fuz is a real beauty, working retracts
	    aswell...

	4.. I've gotta extract the Hellcat from the loft and finish the
	    paint job off.. This got put aside while I built a new WOT-4
	    for a friend.

	5.  Make good all the crashes I'm bound to have over the next few
	    months...

	6.. I'm gonna get a real circuit out of my Bell 47G.. A long figure
	    of 8, way out in front of me... I can get half of one (figure
	    4? ) then the bottle goes.... I see a whole bundle of 5 pound
  	    notes go flying past and slow down... keep at it I s'pose. I
	    guess maybe the crash will be softer in teh snow...


	    cheers

	
	    bob

    
    I've learned not to bite off more than I can chew - like Kay says,
    it can make you look lazy when summer comes around and you haven't
    done half of what you planned.  So, my winter goals are...
    
    1.  Finish Great Planes Cap 21 (.40 sized) glass/epoxy covering,
        painted finish, OS .45FSR engine.
    
    2.  Design and build in-flight circuit to do various couplings and
        failsafe detection.  Looking for a good low-power CMOS one-chip
        microcomputer to do the job.  It will sit between the receiver
        and servos.  Main thing I'm looking for is flaperon mixing with
        flap-elevator coupling, but I don't want to rip apart my Futaba
        7FGK-AM transmitter.

    3.  Modify Super-Sportster .40 (bought from Fred) for Enya 46-4C
        4-stroke engine.  Finish paint job (over super coverite).

    4.  Do lots of skiing, maybe France this year (Austria last year
        was great!).
    
    5.  I think I've already bitten off more than I can chew!


    Bill

    
    A few projects going this winter...
    
    1. Move into new house, build workshop (made a deal with my wife, and
       managed to get an 20x18 area in the basement just for RC use).
    
    2. Finish the Great Planes CAP 21. (fuse done, no starts the wing)
    
    3. Build the clipped wing with flaps for the Goldberg CUB. Its been
       half done, and in the queue for a while. Add skis while I'm at
       it.
    
    4. Start on the GP Rockwell Commander Shrike with twin .40's. I've
       got the wings almost done, and ready for sheet balsa covering.
       If anybody has built one and has any suggestions, hints, or novel
       ideas, my ears are always open.
    
    5. Build a bigger field box.
    
    6. Fly as much as possible!
    
    		Steve
    

    
    	I have to finish my Eagle 63....been saying that now for the
    3-4 months I've had the kit, and haven't done it yet!  S'pose
    I should rearrange my schedule a bit?
    	That's my only project, unless you include debugging my RC car.
    
    	Where does the time go????
    
    	Brian
    

  Well..............

  Someday I hope to finish my Kadet Sr. It's about 75% complete but like
most everyone else, the time just isn't there to work on it lately.

  Finish the repairs (covering) on my Piece o' Cake from the last 'landing'.

  Get my Deep Vee (that's pronounced 'boat') together and ready for any
open water I can get near.  At 5 feet long I don't need a lake - the ocean
will work fine on a fairly calm day.

  Buy and build a small (18"-24") Deep Vee for screaming around in the 
local ponds.

  
  Hey Dan, you should put the floats on your plane today.  The last weather
report said:

"Major coastal storm....could mean deep snow north and west of Boston"
                       
   The storm will hit sometime early tomorrow and last into Saturday.  

  Jim

  

    Ahhh! The joy of building.
    
    I am 90% complete on a Adante Gliger I started in late Oct.  It's
    a very nice kit and looks like will be a good performer as well.
    
    Next project is a 1/4 scale B&B Laser 200 with Q50.  Kit is glass
    and foam.  I saw the new Airtronics radio gear at a show in Chicago.
    The new PCM stuff is slick and will run just short of $400.  One
    nice feature is during loss of signal.  You can pre-program a control
    setting that is implemented when a glitch occurs.  On the glider
    you just go to full spoiler and a little rudder.
    
    Have'nt seen much 1/4 scale action in the notes file.  Out here
    in Wisconsin 1/4s are taking over.  We fly on sod farms that have
    all the room required to land 747s.
    
    regards,
    NCMWVX::VOSS

                           -- Flash -- Flash --
    
    The FK Aeroplanes "Jetstar" has arrived in record time.  I ordered
    it from Mutchlers on Thursday and it arrived Monday.  That's fast!
    
    The bummer is that its my christmas present and the wifey sez 
    "no build, until christmas".  Okay, so I have two on the bench that
    need to be finished.  Sheesh, details!
    
    I am impressed with the kit, it looks to be a fast builder.
    
    
    Tom T. - Help me on selecting retracts, Mutchler's sez use Rhom
    or Spring-air.  Did'nt you say that Rhom won't fit.  What did you
    use on the Skyleader and Speeda?
    
    Chris

    Dan,
    
    Re .22 - As for as I can tell, you don't need to stop the prop from
    spinning after the motor is shut off.  The guys with Electras power
    up from Hand Land for about 1 min., then glide until another 1 min
    boost is needed to gain altitude.  When the things flying you can
    see the prop spinning all the time, but powered fly produces a loud
    humm as the prop beats the air.  Here's to success.   An' keep us
    posted.
    
    Chris

    Dan,
    
    Perhaps, if prop breakage is a real condideration on landing, you
    can apply an old free-flight gimmick.  They simply attach a music-wire
    skid to the firewall, angled back slightly [no wheel, just a skid]
    to keep the prop clear of the ground on landing.  It adds virtually
    no weight, no drag and is essentially invisible in flight.
    
    Chris,
    
    If the kit mfgr. recommends Rhom or Spring-Air retracts [they both
    fit the same or similar mount pattern], definitely go with the Rhoms.
    I have it on "good authority" [namely Dan Parsons] that the Spring-Air
    gear is troublesome to setup correctly and can be unreliable due
    to the criticality of the setup.  The idea "sounds" great but, in
    practice, doesn't appear to deliver the goods. The Rhom system is
    a mature, well proven product that I know you'll be satisfied/pleased
    with. 
    
    Adios,	Al

    My speeda documentation states that MK is the prefered retract.
    
    You asked my opinion so here goes. 
    
    	1)  I wouldn't install retracts on that plane.
    		Reasons, weight,wing area,installation problems and
    	   unnecessary aggrevation.
    
    	2)  See # 1.
    
    
    If you do decide to install retract then a word to the wise.
    
    
    		""PLAN""
    
    You had better plan every part of the installation out. Like were
    is the air cylinder going to fit?  Etc,etc,etc. Also don't plan
    on putting anything else than a .60 in it or you won't get the vertical
    performance out of it that your looking for.
    
    You asked what did I do on the speeda and the skyleader? I used
    fixed gear with Kraft slim line wheel. Can't even tell that they're
    there. I was disappointed with myself on the skyleader. Even though
    this was to be my beat the shit out of it plane I got heavy with
    paint and didn't meet my weight goal of 5.5 lbs. With the Speeda
    I haven't finished it yet. I have to install the servo tray and
    then cover the wing/horizontal stab and then paint the fuse. Right
    now the plane weight 5 lbs. withthe engine and gear installed. I
    shooting for 7 lbs. If I don't exceed this I expect that I'll get
    excellent performance out of the muffled .61 OS longstroke. If
    not then there is always a pipe. However that wasn't the intent.
    The speeda was to be a backup for my new T2A MKIII and a ship I
    could take to the field and have a lot of smooth fun with. Still
    doing pattern manuavers but in a more relaxed format that practice
    with the T2A MKIII.
    I'll say it again. If I were you I would build it with fixed gear
    and install an OS 61 FSR,HB PDP Blitz or Supertiger .61 . This would
    yield you a great flying pane and a competition grade pattern trainer.
    
    
    						Tom

    Al,
    Thanks for the comeback, but after some investigating and reading
    Tom's reply, I think fixed gear is going to be the setup.
    
    Tom,
    Definition - Retracts = $ + hours + lbs. + headaches
                                          
    The documentation I got with my "Jetstar" consists of one (1) 11x14
    sheet of paper showing the wing incidence, thrust line, pipe placement,
    etc and not much more.  I talked the wife into letting me check
    it out before she wrapped it up for Santa to deliver.  I like what
    I saw.  I was at the hobby shop last night and found the cables
    for the controls that you talked about.  The very flexible small
    cables, right?   I need another one of those deluxe control horns
    for the dual rudder control, do you know where I can get them? 
    And if not, I guesss I can cheat and join the stab halves with wire
    and only use one horn for the elevator.   Lastly, do you exit ALL
    controls rods under the Hor. stab?
    
    Thanks,
    Chris
    
    BTW - These are really nice kits,  I'm glad you suggested them.
    Two of my flyin buddies are getting them too, since they saw mine.
    
    PS - FK had the nerve to put Deluxe A.R.F., builds in 4-8 hours
    on the box.  Deluxe, yes - ARF, never.
    
    

    Chris,   To set up the rudder you will drill a hold in the rudder
    to install a hardwood dowel from one side of the rudder to the other.
    This dowel will then be sanded flush with the rudder surface and
    the glassed to add strength. A hole will then be drilled thru
    the hardwood dowel (known as a hardpoint) and then a 4-40 threaded
    shaft screwed thru the hole. To the 4-40 shaft you add two aileron
    connectors ( one on each side of the rudder. To these aileron
    connectors the clevis/ball link from the cables is attached.
    
    	     Use two of the horns in the kit for the elevator. One horn
    per elevator half. DO NOT attach the two elevator halves together.
    Attaching the two halves together reduces your trimming flexability.
    
    
    					
                                            	TOM

    sound a bit complicated to me.. here is the suggestion I got to
    set up push-pull for the rudder on my CUB:
    
    Cut from 1/8th plywood a semi-circular plate. notch plate at center
    on round side. Also notch rudder. drill holes 1/8 diam at appriate distance
    on straight side of plate. insert piece of GOLd-N-ROD insert (that's
    the yellow part) into holes. Glue in place. Insert Kwik-links in
    hole. attatc plate to rudder. Glass if needed. Attach cable to Kwik-link.
    
                    .... ....
                  .    ...    .
                 . 0         0 .
                -----------------
                   ^    ^    ^
                   |    |    |
                  hole notch hole

                       Front of plane
    			 that way
    	                     |
                             V

    md

    Tom,
    
    Re.28  I remembered the dowel for the hard point, I took crappy
    notes as we were covering lots of areas when we talked.  I got it
    now though.
    
    Also, had a serious talk with another guy from our field concerning
    pattern.  He and I and two more of my buddies are going to dedicate
    ourselves to flying pattern ships in hopes of competeing some day.
    Basically, noone right now flies it because they are afraid of pattern
    planes.  One guy who flew a Supra-fly crashed it and bought another,
    but flies every plane he's got other than the "Fly".  He's not
    disciplined and can't figure out why he does'nt do worth a darn
    in the competitions.
    
    You said too, that an O.S. .61 SF was too much engine for the
    "Jetstar". Please explain, as I thought there was no such thing
    as too much, you just throttle back.
    
    re.29
    
    MD, looks OK but it does not provide for rudder throw adjust at
    the control, you are limited to changing servo arms, right?
    
    Chris

     
    	You lost me on the "MD".
    
    As far as the 61 long stroke goes I'm more concerned with torque
    and the amount of vertical area you may have than the speed the
    ship would go. Actually the speed of the ship should be just less
    with the 61 long stroke.  They are designed for torque at lower
    rpms os typically you run big bite (9-10) pitch props in the 11
    to 12 inch diameter range. I just really think that with the Jetstar
    you would have to be on the rudder a lot every time you changed
    your throttle setting. Also the supertiger and the HB an quite
    a bit less in price.
    If you asked me for one and only one suggested engine right now
    I'd probably tell you to get an HB 61PDP Blitz. Id also say to
    try and keep the weight down to 6-6.25 lbs. I have a Dalotel
    that weights 6 lbs. ready to fly. 62 inch wing with 625 squares
    and a .61 HB PDP Blitz in it. Runs excellent, Idled excellent right
    out of the box and has more power than I really need. With this
    set up there is no problem doing 300-400 ft. loops. The engine
    doesn't even sound like it's working. 
    One suggestion might be t assemble the ship minus an engine. Weight
    the ship,radio and the add 2 1/2 lbs for engine and finish.
    
    engine suggestions.......    0-7 lbs
    				Supertiger,HB OS61 FSR
    
    You may want to see if you can carve out some of the fuse formers
    if possible. They are usually beefy. Also I've been using a squared
    off wing tip for the last few ships and like the way the ship responds
    to snap roll commands. 
    After Christmas send me a copy of the plan and I'll mark it up with
    suggestions.                        
    
    
    					Tom

    Tom,
    
    MD is Dufresnes's initials.
    
    I'll copy the plans (I kept them out of the box) for the Jetstar
    and drop them in the "goat mail" in the next few days.  Mark the
    notes on them as you have time.  
    
    Regarding engines, I thought it might me the torque of the SF that
    concerned you.   I know I'm asking alot lately, but can't right-thrust
    offset that?  Or are you seeing the torque in one of your planes?
    
    Chris
    

    Chris,
    
    Tom'll surely correct me if I'm wrong but thrust offsets are un-
    desireable in pattern ships owing to the trim changes [rudder] that  
    result from changes in throttle setting.  When the name of the game
    is precision you want "everything" set as staight and square as
    is humanly possible.
    
    Adios,	Al

    Al,
    
    The Jetstar plans show 1 degree of down-thrust and 1 degree of right-
    thrust.  Gotcha!  Now you're gonna say "1 degree ain't much"!  Well,
    I say it ain't "Zero" :-)
    
    Chris

    Chris,
    
    They, "could" be using the 1-degree down/right thrust much as I
    use it which is merely to insure that no up/left thrust exists.
    We agree that it ain't zero but it ain't much.
    
    Adios,	Al

    re .30: Ya if you use cable. If you use treaded rod, the kwik-link
    is adjustable at the rudder.
    
    re .32: he did it !! he did it !!. My name got mangled again...
    yeech!! Waht is you you guys putting the "s" or an extra one after
    the "n"... 
    
    
    md

    Re -1   
    Guilty, I put "'s" to show possesive and did'nt know I added the
    other "S".
    
    A thousand apologies,
    
    Chrissssssss

    
    
    	Sorry to interrupt the flow, but here are my winter plans. 
    First I'm going to finish my flight box, kinda get everything to
    fit in one place rather then three boxes I have now. It will be
    heavy but I'd rather grab one thing and know I have everything.
    
    Build my first scratch built, an Electrostreak from AMA plans. A
    4 channel electric pattern type.  I have the plans, balsa and will
    use the radio and LT50 out of my Leisure Wasp.
    
    Next I hope to spruce up my Super Kaos and practice the pattern
    and try a contest in the spring.
    
    Finally build a ducted fan.  So far I have the K&B 7.5, Macs pipe,
    Turbax I fan and just received the plans from B-Line for there Sport
    Eagle.
    
    						TOM from PA

>    the electric conversion of my Piece O' Cake. (Still haven't come
>    up with a name for it.)

Sorry Dan - I can't resist - how about "Burnt Cake".
I can see it now - motor stalled, smoke coming out of the battery...

              _!_      
Bye        ----O----   
Kay R. Fisher / \     

================================================================================

    Dan,
    
    No apologies required...I have conceded in the past that there are
    some very practical applications for the plastic film coverings
    and I'd think an electric would be a prime candidate due to the
    weight considerations.  As a matter of fact, I plan to use an iron-
    on covering (though not a film) on the Playboy antique oldtimer
    I'm getting ready to finish for the same reason(s), namely weight.
    
    BTW, please don't get offended now as this is meant in the most
    humorous of ways...when you mentioned needing a name for yer' re-
    configured Piece o' Cake, the "very" first thing that popped into
    my mind was "Piece o` S**t".....whatcha' think???  :-) :-)
    
    Adios amigo, 	Al

    Long john are for sissies . I grew up in Labrador where winter start
    with Labour day & finished around Pentecost. The real measure of
    o man up there is how long he can stand the cold. Using long jouhn
    was tantamount to cheating. No, just invite Al up to these parts wearing
    nothing more than a tank top & cut-offs. That should really get
    him to appreciate the sport better
    
    md

                Winter project number one is done!
        
                The Robinhood  I  bought  from  Dan  Snow had it's maiden
        flight yesterday.   The  Maloney 125 is a great engine!  (Yes Dan
        125, I traded the 100 for a 125) The spark/gas combinations makes
        it idle like adream.   We ran one tank of gas through it and then
        took out out on the runway.  It was blowing pretty hard, so I was
        a tad nervous, but what the heck,  it's  only  countless hours of
        work,  several hundreds of dollars and my prestige  that  was  at
        stake, so I gunned it!  Everything went very  smoothly - it has a
        funny roll when you give it aileron, at first the  ailerons don't
        seem  to do anything and then suddenly they take effect.   I  had
        left  the  struts  at  home so I resisted trying some aerobatics.
        Takeoffs and  landings are real fun with a big plane.  Now to get
        a camera mounted in it.
        
                One comment.   The  CG  was about an inch further forward
        than on the plans.   After some deliberation I decided to give it
        a go anyway.  It didn't seem to have any adverse effect.  I tried
        to throttle back to see if  it  would  drop  the nose into a deat
        dive, but no, just a beautiful glide.
        
        Anker

    
    	Anker,
    		Congradulations of the succesful flight. Now if you
    were to say that you were going to put it on ski's then that I would
    call a winter project.
    
    						Tom

        Re:< Note 381.47 by SPKALI::THOMAS >

                I thought I did!  The torque ski's are sitting in the box
        waiting for the  white stuff to cover the ground.  1/4 scale skis
        look real impressive!
        
        Anker

RE: < Note 381.43 by JOULE::SNOW >


  Hey Dan, why not just call it a 'SNOW JOB'?  


  Jim

    Dan,
    
    I wasn't gonna bite, but oh well.....  According to my daughter
    [a beautician/hairdresser by trade], there's a monument in France
    erected on the "very" spot where Cassanova got his first blow-dry.
    
    But, now, back to the subject at hand......  Al

    Bit off the beaten track, but the last reply talked about hinges
    and it reminded me...
    
    What is a "full length film hinge covered top and bottom" for an
    aileron? The construction article I was reading was using Solarfilm for
    covering the wing and the writer recommended the above hinge as "fiddly
    but worth it". 
    
    Keith.

    Keith,
    
    The hinge setup you refer to is made from the same plastic film
    used to cover the model.  I'm not exactly sure how it's done but,
    basically, two strips of film, the length of the control surface,
    are carefully ironed together, lengthwise in the middle, then ironed
    onto the wing T.E, then to the control surface.  From there the
    wing/stab/rudder is covered with the same film as you normally would.
    
    The claimed advantages are: nearly invisible hinges, "zero" hinge-gap,
    totally free movement and no moving part/non-wearing hinges.
    
    I've never tried this method but am told by those that have that
    it's a crackerjack technique.                     
    
    Adios,	Al

    re "film hinges"
    
    Why make your own??  Granite State R/C sells iron on gapless hinges
    in a variety of colors (including white).  They make them by sewing
    2 pieces of iron-on fabric together.  Apply just like Al said.
    
    They are slick and assure that there is no gap.  It works well for
    sport ships.  Perhaps Ron or one of the other pattern flyers can
    say if they hold up under that kind of stress.  Clearly, they would
    not be "right" for most scale ships.
    
    Cheers,
    jeff
    

    Hey! Snow-man,
    
    I still like the name I suggested better.	Al

    
    Dan,     How about ELECTRAGLIDE ??
    
    					Tom

    I'm sure you mean Professional Operating System!

    Only if you paint it blue !
    	
    Good luck with it!  If noise complaints cost many more fields, we're
    all going to be 100% electric soon.
    	
    Bill_(4wd_electric_our_specialty)
    

    Dan,
    
    Boxing gloves are in the mail (with the check I sent :-) ), but
    you have to drink a case of Colorado Cool-aid before you an' Al
    mix it up.  That should be a sight.
    
    Wadda ya' mean, time to test glide it, but no powered flight?  All's
    you had to do was move the stick on the left. ;-)
    
    Chris

  

  Yeah Dan, I think I can help you out, but you have to wait until I 
re-weigh my POC.  I can't remember the weight off hand.  

  Let me know when you are going to be flying your version, I would 
like to see it!


  In the immortal words of The Desert Rat....Adios amigo!    Jim

    
    	Since this is on projects, I have a question for you all...
    I am building an Eagle 63, and just started gluing the Fuse together
    this weekend.  I noticed that my fuse is warped, starting from the
    back of the cabin section, going all the way to the nose.  Both
    sides being warped to the right, looking from the tail.  
    	Has anyone else encountered this, and if so how did you correct
    it?  (So far, I have only glued the area behind the warp, and weighted
    the nose against the warp and done some test gluing there.)
    
    
    		Any help/advise would be greatly appreciated!!
    
    	Brian
    

        Re:< Note 381.67 by AUTUMN::NOYES >

                I'm not sure  whether  you  are  referring to a corkscrew
        warp or just a bend in the fuselage.  If it's a corkscrew I would
        cut all the glue joints  and reglue it without the warp.  If it's
        a bend I would spray the bent part  of  it  with  window  cleaner
        (contains ammonia that softens wood) and hold the fuselage in the
        straight position overnight.
        
                I recommend the purchase of a fuse and wing jig - such as
        the  ones  Tower  Hobbies  sells,  to  eliminate  both  of  these
        problems.
        
        Anker

    
    YAY! YIPPEE! HOORAY! GOLLY! WOW!
    
    Okay, now that I have that out of my system, it's time for a flight
    report. Went out to the field around 3:00 this afternoon. The wind
    was about 15 mph or so, but dead down the runway. I did my pre-flight
    inspection, then my range check, then stood around for a few minutes
    trying to get my nerve up. I finally decided that since I had flown
    my POC in worse wind, that was no excuse. Besides, the wind should
    give me a little extra lift, meaning time to react if the motor
    wasn't strong enough. So, after taking a deep breath, setting all
    trims to neutral, I turned the motor on, took a couple of quick
    steps and gently tossed it out in front of me. Before it got ten
    feet away I knew what was going to happen, had to get full down
    trim into it to keep it from ballooning up on me in the wind. After
    that it flew exactly like the POC, with 2 very minor exceptions,
    it flies about half again faster than the POC, and required right
    rudder trim under power. Even with right trim in, I notice a definite
    momentary left roll when I turn the motor back on after a glide.
    Must be the torque from that big 9-8, (sorry, it's not a 9-11 like
    I thought) prop.
    	There were no other nasty surprises that I could see, though
    I was only up about 5 minutes, doing some left and right hand turns
    fighting the wind. It was when I decided to bring it down that I
    discovered what makes this set-up far superior to the POC. The wind
    direction was variable, and when I got blown off line,(which happened
    3 times) I just turned the motor back on and went around to try
    again! (Just like a real model airplane Kay!!)
    	Last night I took the wire whiskers off and put a small formed
    aluminum landing gear on. It will save the prop, and I am now building
    skies for when de snow flies. (Not one word Al, control yourself!:^))
    
    	Needless to say I am extremely happy with the plane. This was
    my first successful flight since June! I haven't flown since then
    except for the disaster with the Train-Air 40 when I tried to fly
    on my own, so it was a while before the knees stopped shaking.
    
    Happy Holidays To All,
    Dan
    

    Dan,
    
    Good to hear of the success of yer' project....way-to-go!!!	   Al

  Alright Dan!  I guess this means that Al's name for the plane
just doesn't fit!  Maybe I'll convert my POC to electric this
winter.


  Jim
  

    
    Thanks Al and Jim,
    	Just wanted you guys to know that I have finally given the thing
    an official name, "Pilgrim-1". Got 4 more flights on it this afternoon,
    weather was perfect, temp near 50 and wind about 5 mph, maybe 15mph
    up about 75-100' or so. Looks like I'll need to add about 1/2 oz
    of nose weight. Now that I've proven the design, I'll finish painting
    the cowl and complete the trim work.
    
    Merry Christmas to all.
    
    Dan
    

  BTW Dan, my POC weighs just over 2 Lbs and the CG is 2 7/8 inches back
from the leading edge.


  Jim

    Well, I bought a Futaba YS .45 FS for the Jetstar.
    
    I bought it because I'm partial to this size engine, but only after
    doing some research.  I called Futaba out in Compton, CA and spoke
    with their "technical expert".  He stated the following power output:
    
    Engine	w/muff	w/pipe
    
    .45		1.75 HP	 2.0 HP
    
    .60		-------  2.5 HP
    
    I have'nt run it, but so far, quality appears to be close to OS
    except that the casting is not quite as good.  It is Manufactured
    by Yamada of Japan.  It appears that Futaba has some interest in
    the company.  The instructions are the only thing that has Futaba
    written on it, the rest says "Yamada".
    
    PT40 - almost finished repainting, then just a matter of reassembly.
    
    Kougar - Started covering wing and stabs with Dan Parsons .6 oz
             and envirotex.  I'm pleased so far, but process is slow
             due to the 24 hr. cure period of the epoxy.
    
    Jetstar - I won't even try to start it until the other two are of
              the bench.

OK guys - making any progress on your winter projects.

I just completed my Drifter II glider and brought it in to work today
for show and tell.

Now on the the Big Stick 20

then the Aeromaster Bipe

then the Berliner-Joyce.

Come on - let's see some progress reports.

              _!_      
Bye        ----O----   
Kay R. Fisher / \     

================================================================================

    All the majors sub-assemblies have been completed for the CG CUB.
    
    I plan to mate the wings this weekend.
    
    The Tote box is half done.
    
    md

    PT40 - Has been finished for a few weeks now, just waiting to fly.
    
    Kougar - The entire plane has its white base coat, and last night
    I started to mask it for colors (Thunderbird paint scheme)
    
    Jetstar - in 6 hrs. I have the wing and stab joined, tipped, and
    sanded smooth.  Now fitting them to fuse.  Rhom retracts have been
    fitted to the wing.  The nose gear presents a problem, due to the
    spring coil being on the wrong side of the plane.  It will interfer
    with the pipe & fuse, so it will be modified.
    
    That's all folks....
    

    re Goldberg CUB: Wing all joined up: Piec o cake.. This is on big
    mother. not to put ailerons & stuff, then plug holes & stuff.
    
    md

    re .7
    Let it be known that my "winter project" Super Sportster 20 has
    been finished, as of today July 18, 1988. It was successfully
    flown today by our Ace #2 test pilot, Charlie Watt! It's going
    to be a handful for me, but I'm excited about learning how to
    fly it.
    
    The other 3 projects I had planned in 381.7 are not finished yet,
    but don't worry, winter's not over yet!
    
    Dave Hughes