T.R | Title | User | Personal Name | Date | Lines |
---|
190.1 | | SPKALI::THOMAS | | Tue Jun 09 1987 08:31 | 15 |
|
Next time when your hinging the aileron put a hinge about 1/2
inch from the end. I definately sounds like flutter. Check all
surfaces. Also check your servo gear train. Flutter can eat gears.
One fix is to rehinge the surfaces. An alternative to try first
is to go out and buy some clear vinyl tape and seal the aileron
hinge gap. This usually fixes the problem.
Like I said next time add the extra hinge at the end. Also
laminating two pieces of aileron stock helps produce a stiffer
piece than one piece alone. Try the tape I think it should solve
your problem. Also seal the rudder and elevator. Also reduce the
control surfaces throws after you seal the hinge gaps. You'll
find that sealed surfaces are more effective.
Tom
|
190.2 | ANOTHER POSSIBILITY | PUNDIT::COLBY | KEN | Tue Jun 09 1987 08:46 | 5 |
| I do not know how you have your wing attached, but if it is
held on with rubber bands, a possibility is that the rubber bands
are making the sound. This can make a real loud racket.
Ken
|
190.3 | Flutter with rudder?? | MJOVAX::SPRECHER | | Tue Jun 09 1987 13:03 | 4 |
| Along the same lines, I have a Super Kaos 60 with K&B pumper. On
full bore level flight it has a tendency to wiggle back and forth
like the rudder is glitching. Is this rudder flutter or is this
a characteristic of this plane? Whats the cure?
|
190.4 | Any more ideas? | LEDS::HUGHES | Dave Hughes (LEDS::HUGHES) SHR-4/B10 237-3672 | Wed Jun 10 1987 16:38 | 21 |
| Thanks for the suggestions so far. The ailerons and elevator hinge
gaps have been sealed since I built the plane. I used Ultracote
folded into the hinge gap and ironed on. I didn't seal the rudder
hinge gap.The hinges are the solid plastic type, no hinge pins, so
they are pretty stiff.
There is a hinge near the end, but not as close as 1/2 inch. The
servo is new and very little play, and there is very little play
at the aileron horns. However, the outboard ends can be twisted
fairly easily (the ailerons are not very stiff).
It is a bolt on wing, with a very stiff saddle (no foam tape, just
epoxolite to make a smooth matching surface).
I'm suspicious that the ailerons are just twisting to cause the
flutter, but how do I prove it? I'd like to be pretty sure before
I go as far as replacing the ailerons or anything more drastic.
Any more ideas, folks?
Dave
|
190.5 | | SPKALI::THOMAS | | Thu Jun 11 1987 07:57 | 8 |
|
The only way I know f proof is by an educated ear. One final
suggestion short of cutting off the ailerons and making new ones'
is to remove the bottom covering of the ailerons and laminate some
1/64 plywood to the aileron then recover.
Tom
|
190.6 | Change the test conditions... | TONTO::SCHRADER | | Thu Jun 11 1987 09:22 | 20 |
|
Here is something that might work. I've never tryed it on a model
but full scale aircraft designers sometimes use the same princeaple.
The frequency that the control suface resonates depends on the
stiffness of the suface (the twistable aileron tips in your case)
and the mass (actually moment of inertia) of the surface. Increasing
the stiffness or decreasing the mass should increase the resonant
frequency. So.. if you attach a small weight to the aileron tips
then go out and recreate the conditions which caused the flutter,
if the tone (i.e. frequency) of the flutter is lower or it isn't
there anymore, then the weights on the aileron tips affected the
flutter and therefore it is the ailerons which are fluttering.
This should work for any surface so they could be tested one at a
time to find out which one is fluttering. If you actually try this
be very sure to attach the weights securely so that the high speed
airstream can't pull them off and check your CG. Also, I would
seal the rudder hinge gap.
GES
|
190.8 | | SPKALI::THOMAS | | Fri Jun 26 1987 15:34 | 28 |
| One method I've seen for adding a counterbalance to the control
surface is to install a typical control horn out at the tip of
the control surface so that the holes that normally a clevis
would be attacked to are adjacent to the hinge line. Take a small
length of 1/16 wire (2") and bend a right angle in the wire app.
3/4 of an inch from one end. Add a small wheel collar to the wire
and then make two more right angle bends.
Front view Side View
IE. _______ .
| |
| |
| __<----Wheel collar |
--------| |-- (.)
-- | /
| /
| /
| /
| /
| /
Slide the upper part of the wire thru the control horn
bottom hole and then back thru a higher hole. Adjust the wheel collar
to secure the wire and then add weighht to the wire that extends
forward of the hinge line. They used common fishing sinkers as
weight.
Tom
|
190.9 | Flutter status report | LEDS::HUGHES | Dave Hughes (LEDS::HUGHES) SHR-4/B10 237-3672 | Mon Jul 06 1987 16:15 | 19 |
| Well, it wasn't much work so this weekend I replaced the ailerons.
I took a number of the suggestions that I received here and elsewhere:
o Stiffer aileron stock
o Laminated top and bottom with 1/64 ply (they're stiff now!)
o Extended the wing tips the width of the ailerons so the ailerons
are more protected from turbulence at the tips
o 4 hinges per aileron, instead of 3, one about 1/4 inch from the
outboard ends.
o Filled the gap with ultracote (had done this before, anyway)
Today was the test flight. The results were encouraging - a high
speed pass in front of me resulted in only minor noise, which I'm
sure isn't the ailerons this time. I think it's the ultracote on
the wing itself is flopping because it's not stuck down well to the
ribs. Forming a very nice drum/resonator. I'll work on that next
and see if it's completely cured.
Dave
|
190.12 | Here's a suggestion | LEDS::COHEN | | Wed Jun 28 1989 12:00 | 18 |
| >Up again, and, you guessed it - aileron flutter. Down again. This time, we
>find the torque rods haven't worked themselves loose. The torque rod is 4"
>long from servo to aileron, so it can twist, like a Macpherson strut in a
>car.
Really, you mean Torsion Bar. A MacPherson Strut is the shock absorber,
It only goes up and down (actually, it does twist, since it provides the
upper pivot point for steering, but it's supposed to do that, there's no
torque at all, it's anchored at the top, but free rotate at the bottom).
I don't suppose that makes any difference to your problem though.
If you can get the wing apart easily, you might try using a push-pull
NyRod at the center of the aileron, rather than the current torque rod
at one end. That would eliminate the torque-twisties altogether, and,
since the actuating force on the aileron would be applied at the center,
instead of the end of the strip, you are effectively halving the length
of the aileron, and so reducing the ability to flutter by half
(actually, it'de be doubling the fundamental frequency of vibration).
|
190.13 | Is it really flutter?, this may help | DIENTE::OSWALD | Randy Oswald | Wed Jun 28 1989 14:46 | 23 |
| Ajai,
I have a GP Trainer 40 that had serious problems with the ailerons. Basically
they were extremely ineffective. I tried sealing the gap - no effect. Adjusting
things so there was a little washout - no effect. Lengthen the throws - no
effect. And on and on. I took a long hard look at the plane and finally came up
with a solution that fixed the problem. In fact the ailerons are now so
effective that I have reduced the throws to almost nothing.
My evaluation of the problem on the T40 (it applies to the T60 also - I'm
helping a friend build one) is that the ailerons simply aren't big enough
for the extremely thick, symmetrical airfoil of the T40/60 wing. They
never get close to clear air to do their job. The airfoil is 2+ inches thick
and the ailerons are less than half of this wide.
I replaced the stock 3/8 X 1 rectangular ailerons with 3/8 X 1&1/2 inch tapered
aileron stock and viola - super effective ailerons. Now, I'm no expert, so my
evaluation of the problem may not make aerodynamic sense, but the problem is
definetly solved.
Hope this is of some use. My T40 is a fun plane now that it works.
Good Luck,
Randy
|
190.14 | I think Randy is on to the best fix | CURIE::ANKER | Anker Berg-Sonne | Wed Jun 28 1989 15:46 | 21 |
| Re: <<< Note 239.1468 by DIENTE::OSWALD "Randy Oswald" >>>
I saw Ajai's plane yesterday and noticed how thick and
short the ailerons are. Also the fact that they flutter so
easily indicates to me that the airflow around them must be wuite
turbulent. There is a poor transition from the trailing edge of
the wing to the aileron, which would help create turbulence, so I
believe Randy's solution is the way to go. Tapered ailerons that
trasition well from the trailing edge should eliminate the
tendency to flutter.
_
/ |
| _====____/==|
|-/____________|
| | o \
O \
O
Hang in there! o_|_
|
Anker \_|_/
|
190.11 | Yeah, it really *is* flutter. | HPSRAD::AJAI | | Wed Jun 28 1989 15:55 | 27 |
| Randy,
Your T40 seems to have come with narrow ailerons, strangely enough!
My T60 has 1 1/4" ailerons, and Charlie -Chuck-Yeager-Ace Watt, my
test pilot and instructor, had no complaints about the effectiveness
of the ailerons. Your 1 1/2" wide modification is pretty close to
mine, so...
We heard a distinct, low frequency buzz a number of times, with a
number of experts watching intently, so I don't think there was any
mistake in the verdict.
Anyhow, I have currently covered the hinge line gap with film on both
sides of the wing, hacked off the aileron from the wing tip until the
first hinge - about 3" in all - and stuck it to the wing. The idea is
that there is no movable surface present to be fluttered by the wing
tip vortex. A second thing that happens is that I now have a hinge
supporting the extremities of the ailerons, per the GP guys advice.
That's 3 pieces of advice rolled into one, so let us see what happens.
Yo Test pilot, let go fer it!
ajai
|
190.10 | A word from the Desert Rat on Flutter. | HPSRAD::AJAI | | Wed Jun 28 1989 18:20 | 41 |
| From: PNO::CASEYA "RC-AV8R" 28-JUN-1989 10:58:03.40
To: HPSRAD::AJAI
CC: CASEYA
Subj: FLUTTER
Ajai,
First, congratulations on the successful first flights on yer' T-60; second,
condolences on the flutter problem.
I'm not sure I ever encountered flutter on a T-60, though I'm sure it could
happen to _any_ airplane, under the right circumstances. Flutter can result
from any number of causes: sloppy/loose linkage(s); sloppy hinges; too wide a
hinge-line gap; etc.
My most recent encounter with flutter was with the ol' Yeller' Peril which,
after I don't know how many hundred flights began to exhibit aileron flutter.
The cause was sloppy linkages resulting from the normal wear of hundreds of
flights. Since the Jungmeister has 4-ailerons, I wanted to avoid having to
completely rebuild the linkages (which were plenty safe, just sloppy). So, I
decided to try sealing the already pretty tight hinge-line gaps first on the
advice of a local pattern and race pilot. If this failed, I figgered' I was
doomed to tear into the 4-ailerons' associated linkages.
I sealed each gap from underneath by flexing the aileron to full up deflection,
then applying a strip of clear 3M upholstery repair tape (available in most any
hardware store) the length of the gap and adhered to the trail edge of the wing
as well as the lead edge of the aileron. In this way, the movement of the sur-
face is not restricted but it is stiffened considerably. This solved the flut-
ter problem on the ol' Peril, I'm happy to say.
The fellow who recommended the fix to me swore he could fix _any_ flutter prob-
lem using this technique so you may wish to give it a try on the T-60. You
might opt to use Monokote instead of the tape I mentioned but I think the key
is adding stiffness to the surface as well as sealing the airflow through the
gap which, I think, is the realm of the tape more than Monokote.
By all means keep me/us informed of yer' progress. And, hang in there...there
are always a few teething problems to sort out with a new bird.
Adios, amigo, Al
|
190.15 | brass lined edges can flutter | UPWARD::CASEYA | THE DESERT RAT (I-RC-AV8) | Mon Apr 16 1990 12:13 | 74 |
| RE: .-1, ERIC,
I'm tickled we could help you solve yer' problem! Be sure and update
us as to yer' progress and results.
Chuck Collier and I went out Saturday AM to put some Top Gun practice
flights on his Jug and the ol' MiG-3. Chuck was instantly plagued by
aileron flutter which mystified us both as everything'd been
rock-steady on the previous flights. I put three flights on the MiG
and slaked a little rust off in the process. Everything went fine and
the MiG is ready to go, but those $#@*^&% rubber pushrods (Gold 'n Rods)
got me again; on the first flight, I noticed I had _gobs_ of up trim in
the elevator while preparing to start the engine. Those blasted
pushrods had expanded from the 90F temperature as they always do (and
the mfgr has the unmitigated gall to claim they are "temperature-
compensated"...now I'm here to tell you that, IMHO, that's nothing
short of a bald-faced lie!
Anyhoo, I had to guess at how much down trim to dial in and I guessed
too much; takeoff roll proceded pwefectly 'til I got to full-throttle,
at which time, the tail came up past level and no power on heaven or
earth could stop its going over on the nose. But, no harm done save
for a broken prop, scratched spinner and slightly dented ego. I
replaced the prop, reset the trim and had no further problems, making
3 letter-perfect takeoffs and landings (which are always my first
concern when competition draws near). So I've goat a spinner to
repaint...big deal, that'll take all of an evening or two but I'm
gonna' cut outhe prop clearances, prime and paint a backup spinner in
the process so, if this ever happens again, I don't have to advertize
my stupidity for the remainder of the meet.
But, back to Chuck. He tried a few things at the field but the flutter
persisted through 2 subsequent flights so we went back to his place and
tried to sort things out. We took out a minute amount of play in the
aileron linkage but Chuck'd convinced himself that the new nav lights
and lenses he'd added since the 1/8 AF Fly-In must be setting up some
turbulence. I doubted this and said so but hey, you gotta' try
everything that might help, right. We were back at the field about two
hours later and tried it again...NO JOY! The flutter was still there
just as bad as before. Then I overheard a guy in the pits telling
someone he'd read that flutter was primarily the function of having the
CG of the control surface itself too far back...a light went on when I
heard this. I asked Chuck, "Didn't you tell me you outlined the
ailerons and flaps with brass tubing to clean up the contours?" "Yep!"
he said, "I sure did...looks nice, doesn't it?." "Rip 'em off," I
commanded. "Whaaaaa....??" Chuck responded, he's eyes wide in
disbelief.
I was taking a helluva chance here but felt I was right so I explained
that the ounce or so he added to the very trailling-edge of the
each aileron was more than enough to shift the surfaces' CGs back and
induce the flutter. Chuck wasn't a happy camper as, with the aid of a
scalpel, he peeled the tubing off of bothe ailerrons. I balanced one
of the pieces on my finger, testing its weight up and down, and offered
that it was plentty heavy enough to be the culprit (I hoped). We
refueled, fired up the monster Zenoah G-62 and Chuck taxied once more
for takeoff. (I had my fingers crossed [both hands] behind my back,
not totally convinced that I might not have to run for my life if the
problem persisted.)
Chuck made yet one more rule-book takeoff and retracted the gear. The
moment of truth was at hand as Chuck dropped the nose, getting the
aircraft stepped and making a max-speed pass...we watched, we listened
and EUREKA! NO FLUTTER!! Numerous successive passes proved it was no
fluke and we rejoiced that this ominous problem had been put to bed. I
never liked the idea of using tubing for this purpose in the first
place but NOW I have a good reason for that dislike. Chuck's happy and
we BOTH learned something first-hand.
__
| | / |\
\|/ |______|__(o/--/ | \
| | 00 <| ~~~ ____ 04 ---- | --------------------
|_|_| (O>o |\)____/___|\_____|_/ Adios amigos, Al
| \__(O_\_ | |___/ o (The Desert Rat)
|
190.16 | brass on the very trailing edge | UPWARD::CASEYA | THE DESERT RAT (I-RC-AV8) | Tue Apr 17 1990 17:52 | 32 |
| Re: .-1, Kay,
Chuck outlined the very edge of his aileron and flap trailing edges
with ~1/16" brass tubing to straighten/smooth out the overall wing
contour at the trailing edge. The tubing was not cut in any way
(except in length) and was CA'd right to the surfaces' trailing edges.
Also, he reasoned that this provided him with a hard dam, if you will,
whereby he could apply fillers to the aileron/flap surfaces and block-
sand the waviness out of them without getting the trailing edges too
thin. I told him I wasn't crazy about the idea when he did it but never
guessed it would have the near-disastrous effect it had. I've seen this
done using 1/16" dowel but the stuff is hard to find and I'm not sure its
weight might not've been enough to've caused the same flutter problem
Chuck experienced using the tubing. Lay yer' left ear on yer' left
shoulder as you look at the terminal drawing below and I think you'll
get the idea.
o <---- 1/16"brass tubing
/ \
/ \ <---- aileron (or flap)
hinge-line ----> /_____\
The lesson learned is to watch the weight in the aft 3/4 of the
aileron's width and keep it light to avoid flutter. I know I'm gonna'
watch this especially closely from now on.
__
| | / |\
\|/ |______|__(o/--/ | \
| | 00 <| ~~~ ____ 04 ---- | --------------------
|_|_| (O>o |\)____/___|\_____|_/ Adios amigos, Al
| \__(O_\_ | |___/ o (The Desert Rat)
|