Conference terri::cars_uk

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978
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234

Perhaps Mr Mod can tidy things up and collect them all in one topic?

    
    Can someone out there please tell me the normal cc for the MGB
    
    John Foulds
    

	1800cc (probably 1798 if you want to be picky)

	unless it's a V8, in which case it's 3500cc.

	Jonathan.

    1798
    picky
    

�	unless it's a V8, in which case it's 3500cc.
    
    	3528cc?
    
    Mark

	Ok, ok...

	I do know, being on my third Range Rover...

	Mind you this one's a 3.9. And no I don't know the exact cc.
	Wonder if anyone's put a 3.9 into a BGT yet? That should be
	fairly lively!

	Jonathan.

    
    	I've seen MGBs racing with 3.9s, and, yes, they are 'fairly
    	lively'! :^)
    
    	Mark

	3528 is correct of course, but then there was the MGC too and
	that was 3000 cc or was it 2997 cc.

	-John

    Re -1.
    
    The MGC is quite different.
    Heavy engine giving worse ride; different front suspension;
    different body panels (hood, doors)
    
    Nice combination is MGC body with V8 engine (Red Rooster....)
    
    Hans

    
    Re .9
    
    I thought that the bonnet was the only different panel with
    the C, all the other differences being mechanical (uprated
    suspension for the heavier more powerful engine etc). They're
    a bit of a classic these days; I nearly bought one a few
    years ago but it's original red had been badly resprayed to
    black which put me off at the time. I wouldn't have thought
    anyone would want to put a V8 into one, the whole point of
    having a car like that surely is to keep it original.
    
    Jonathan.

	Having a proper MGB note is a good idea, however this is
	the only MGB note that can't be found by dir/tit=MGB.

	Anyway for starters -

	MG 'B' type introduced late '62. 1798cc 4 cyl engine with
	twin SU carburrettors. Engine originated from some largish
	saloon (Austin A90 Atlantic?). Exhaust system by luck or
	judgement made it sound as if it produced twice it's 95 bhp.
	Original engine had 3 main bearings only.

	4 speed gearbox with no synchro on first. Overdrive extra.
	By modern standards a pretty stiff to change device, 
	particularly when very hot.

	Monocoque construction, first for an MG, of enormous strength.
	Aluminium bonnet, and window surround.

	Double wishbone front suspension with shock absorbers forming
	the upper link. Solid rear axle on semi eliptic springs with
	lever arm shocks. This arrangement did not produce anything very 
	exciting in the handling department being somewhat outdated
	even then. Surprisingly enough though other more pretentious
	marques such as Marcos still adopted this arrangement years
	later.

	Front disc brakes and rear drums, single circuit.

	Leather seats with small shelf at rear which was built over
	the batteries (2 x 6V). Black finished metal dashboard with
	large instruments and simple toggle switches. Space for radio
	and speaker. Archaic heating and ventilating system.

	Fixtures and fittings all chromed ie Bumpers, grille, wipers,
	badges, handles etc. Original model identifiable by it's
	pull out type handles.

	13 in pressed steel wheeels with wires a common extra. 155 tyres
	originally.

	Hood mechanism pretty awkward to use.

	Performance: about 12 secs 0-60 mph, maximum 108mph.

	Changes
	-------

	64  Gets 5 bearing engine and oil cooler, wider wheels. GT
	model arrives too.

	67  Gets revised engine with a bit more torque, proper folding 
	hood, reclining seats (a bit later).

	70  Cost cutting model has leather seats replaced by plastic,
	most chrome bits replaced by black anodised, leyland badges.
	Rostyle wheels standard. Is going down hill fast. 

	75 ish Black bumpers fitted, ride height raised plus other
	tasteless changes. Has just gone off the side of a cliff.

	78 ish Gaudy trim, tiddly instruments, other tat. Now descending
	at close to terminal velocity.

	80 Reaches the bottom. Sales have dropped, to be discontinued, 
	along with the factory that made it.

	81 Some 60's spec models made as a final goodbye, called LE.

	-John

    
    Sorry if this is a rathole, but...
    
    John, what Marcos used Cart springs and lever shocks 'years later' than 
    1962?
    
    Mark
    
    

    
    Now for some MG stuff.
    
    The LE had rubber bumpers didn't it? Not 60's spec at all!
    
    Mark

>>           <<< Note 1266.11 by HAMPS::LINCOLN_J "Where sheep dare" >>>

>>	Having a proper MGB note is a good idea, however this is
>>	the only MGB note that can't be found by dir/tit=MGB.

    The MGC used a old 3.0Litre straight six producing some 140ish BHP (I
    will get the exact spec tonight)
    
    Grant

>    The MGC used a old 3.0Litre straight six producing some 140ish BHP (I
>    will get the exact spec tonight)
    
It was the Austin Healey straight 6 and it went like .....

that is if you could stop the wheels spinning :-)

btw over about 120 mph you needed a *LOT* of cement in the boot to maintain
a semblance of stability...

they are great fun though...I liked the one I was lent for 2 weeks despite the
padding behind me to enable me to reach the controls...the owner had modded it
he was 6'6" and had to re-site the seat as far back as it would go...

...fond memories :-)

 .... are you sure that it was an Austin Healey motor ???

 I used to think this, but was told that it is the old Austin 3.0litre
 six, as used in the Austin Princess, and that the Healey was something
 different again.

 Mark

    
    Wasn't the C engine out of some commercial vehicle?
    
    Mark

    The C 3.0Litre was the same engine as used in the Princess 3Litre.
    
    Grant

    ...rathole, but ...

    But what did the Austin Healey use ??? Wasn't there a four-pot version 
    of the Healey 3000 ???

    RE -1: FOUR POT HEALY: It's named 100/4 smaller engine.
           This was the first engine the big healy was released with.
           The 6 pot was introduced with the 100/6 type.
    
    Re 1266.11: A Four synchro box was introduced I think about 1968.
                Most MGB's have no aluminium bonnets.
                MGC's have them anyway as well as doorskin and bootlid.
                
    I can recommend literature: The A, B & C, wherein the total history
    is to found of the MG A - C series. I can't recall the author now.
    Nice book.
    
    
    

No, I'm not 1000 percent sure, but I'm pretty sure it was an Austin Healey
straight six under the bonnet...

lots of carbs/exhausts/other bits and pieces...very much shoe-horned in !

    Started with brakes refurbishment now.
    
    As the discs are heavily rusted, I'll have to replace them.
    Are there replacements discs other than normal?
    	- ventilated
    	- MGB V8
    
    What is needed to have above changes working (calipers)
    
    Hans

    Notes closed and referred to here are:
    
     234  VESUVE::WHEELWRIGHT  15-JUL-1988    39  MGB - a classic, or just an all
     333   PILOU::SACANELL      3-OCT-1988     1  MGB Hardtop wanted
     621   DELNI::OLESIN       31-MAY-1989     2  MGB Won't Start
     978  RDGE44::JONESK        8-MAR-1990    10  MGB Alternator problem
    1002  RDGE44::JONESK        2-APR-1990    27  Low MGB oil Pressure
    1004  HOO78C::DUINHOVEN     3-APR-1990    11  MGB Wirewheel exchange price wa
    1013  ANNECY::MATTHEWS      6-APR-1990     9  MGB handling :-(
    1032  TOOTER::RGILBERT     18-APR-1990     0  79 MGB CARBURETION
    1053  RDGE44::JONESK       30-APR-1990    17  MGB tail lights gone. Assistanc
    1165  RDGE44::JONESK       25-JUL-1990     9  Dislodged Engine Mounting on MG
    1256  CSG002::BAKER        12-OCT-1990     6  71 MGB Heater Control -
    
    Richard (co-moderator)

    Has anyone had any experience of upgrading the later raised suspension
    models of the "B"?  The Ron Hopkinson anti-roll bars looks a good first
    step, less roll without the expense of a harder ride.  After that what? 
    Telescopic shocks on the rear?  V8 front suspension mods.? Are the
    gains worth the time and effort?

    Jonathan

MGC engine:

3 litre straight 6 based on that used in many earlier models, eg:

Austin Healey: 100/6 and later
Austin A95/A105    |
Austin Westminster |....fairly nasty big saloons made in '50s 
Wolsley 6/99, 110  |    and '60s; all much of a muchness.
Riley 2.6          |
+various trucks I think.

The engine as fitted in the above (including the AH) was originally 2.6
litre, later enlarged to 3.0. For the AH, not to be confused with the
earlier 2.6 litre four (lifted from the Austin A90 Atlantic) which was
fitted to the AH 100. 

I think for the MGC this engine was altered from four main bearings to 
seven, and in this form fitted also to the then-new but shortlived "Austin
3-litre" saloon. This was the strange l-o-n-g car based on the shell of the
Issigonis designed Austin/Morris 1800 (giant version of the mini, otherwise
known as the land crab), with elongated bonnet and boot - and rwd. It kept
the hydrolastic suspension of the 1800 and was probably potentially an 
excellent car but like most BL cars of the time under-developed. Sorry to
ramble. 

Have a feeling that the works team stayed with the 4 main bearing engine
for the racing MGCs. Didn't the same applied to the B, i.e. 3 bearing 
engine preferred to 5 for competition? Sure I read it at the time.

I think the B engine lives on - in the very tenuous sense that the current 
Rover 820 dohc 16v engine still has the same spacing between the cylinders,
for production line continuity reasons. 

- Richard

    
    Moderator, should I mention MG Magnettes here or under another topic?
    
    Billy

    Billy, It's very nice of you to think about the location first.
    
    A dir/title=MG produces an enormous list (try it!). All bar about 2 on
    the MGB. Hence our trying to limit the list from growing further.
    
    I think your subject of the MG Magnettes could well deserve a topic of
    it's own, so as not to get lost amongst the B fans.
    
    Go ahead, make our day :-)
    
    Richard

    RICHARD,
    
    HERE'S A LIMBO STATE: something for sale, but MGB releated.....
    
    Anyway, my spare part supplier has an MG B body (new) for sale.
    One of his regular customers did not purchase it at the end.
    
    Including V.A.T. DFL 10,000.-  (Price I think is negotiable)
    
    I anyone is interested, contact me. (838-3065 @UTO)
    
    
    Hans

    
    Hans,
    
    That is more than twice the price of a new body in the UK, perhaps you
    should start importing them!
    
    Colin

    THANKS COLIN,
    
    I'LL TELL HIM!
    
    Cheers,
    
    Hans

    Going back a few notes... Brake modifications
    
    Hans 
    
    If you want to add V8 discs to a B you need V8 calipers which will cost
    you an arm and a leg if you haven't got any to exchange. However, I
    understand you can construct them using part of the caliper from a
    Triumph 2000 mated to the original caliper. This will allow you to
    accommodate the thicker discs.
    
    I got this mod from the local MG garage where one of their employees
    had tried it although I haven't got round to it yet myself.
    
    If you're going to modify brakes like this I'd renew all seals and make
    sure you know what you're doing!
    
    Mike

    Thank you Mike,
    
    
    As the beast is equipeed with wirewheels, it's better to have the car
    treeted with care.  So hard breaking demands will not be the case.
    As it will cost some money to go for the V8 types, I'll stick with the
    normal ones.  Callipers seem to be o.k., disks need skinning.
    
    
    Cheers,
    
    Hans

I saw 4 scarlet open top MGB's on a transporter today...

All with California Plates !!!

think they are coming home ?

:-)

    re .34
    
    Anyone, who knows the importing company for these U.S. imported
    MGB's?  It might be usefull for me as parts supplier.
    U.S. MGB's are quite different on some details.
    
    Hans

    As a matter of purely academic interest, does someone convert these Bs
    to RHD for UK use?
    
    Steve

    
    The British classic car market has been swamped by US imported cars 
    in the last year (take a glance through any of the magazines).
    
    The E-Type's price fall is to a great extent due to the large number
    of good condition US cars which have been re-imported and converted 
    to RHD spec. (NB This is only a relative fall, prices are still high).
    
    MGs are much the same. They've started to reach a price where it's 
    worth buying cheaply in the US and importing (converting to RHD to
    get an even bigger profit margin). No doubt MGB prices will come down
    too, once saturation of the market has been reached (one thing that
    Marcos owners will never have to worry about!).
    
    Another factor in pushing MG prices down is the fact that it is
    possible to build virtually brand new cars from the Heritage shells
    and reproduction parts available.
    
    Mark

    If anything, the prices of the MGB have gone up rather than down in the
    last year or two. It never was really very expensive compared to the price
    of the parts. Also, they are easy to DIY.

    Introduction of the new bodyshell at around Ukl 1500, makes a rebuilt car
    'worth' around Ukl 8000.

    I wouldn't have thought that the cost of shipping, and converting to RHD
    would make it a worthwhile investment, unless you can pick up very nice
    MGBs for less than Ukl 3000, although with the current exchange rate,
    perhaps you can ...

  Mark

    
    	I looked in California at MGBs,  and you could certainly get a good
    example for $5000 to $6000 (i.e. 3000 pounds).   In fact I nearly went
    for an MGA at about $6500,  basically very sound,  great bodywork.
    
    Cliff

As a general comment, I don't think the MGB had as devoted a following in
the US as the MGA did. One reason may be that while the A was being made
there were no US sports cars to speak of and it was a no nonsense car. (Yes, 
there was the Corvette but those early ones weren't half the car the Sting Ray 
was). A's were raced extensively. Once the B came along, interest seemed to 
drop off. At least interest from the enthuiasts. And once the DOT rules came 
into effect, few people wanted them at all. Also, by that time the design was 
pretty dated.

Today B's are still not expensive whereas A's command higher prices generally.
In the last few years I've known people pay to have a scrap yard take a B
away (not a good one, but one that could have been saved). Another reason
A's are more popularis that they are eligible for all vintage racing whereas B's
are not.

As far as restoration is concerned, the B is a much more daunting task than
an A. The unit bodys tend to rust badly and the interiors are more complex
and more expensive to put right.

I have the chance to buy a U.S. 1973 MGB engine and transmission (4-speed) that
was taken out of a wrecked MGB with 2,000 miles in 1973.  This is my neighbor
so I believe him on the mileage.  He was an MG mechanic for years in the 60's
and early 70's.  He said he oiled the cylinders before putting the engine away
and the engine does turn.  The engine has all the pollution gear, plus the two
SU's.  The transmission has never been split from the engine since it left the
factory. 

The engine/transmission is located in the United States and will be paid for
with US dollars. Do you know how much I should offer the guy?  He says it's
worth some money and that I should make him an offer.  If I buy it, I will buy
a new body shell and a parts car to make a super MGB. 

Thanks,
Jim

    As I've got an ex-US type, I'd like to advise to following:
    - Have all cylinders checked for correct pressure
      This engine (probably 18GK series) have an airpump.
      All airpump engines prone to cylinder head cracks.
    - It is hard to obtain the parts for the ELC - EEC engines.
      Airpump, gulpvalve, evaporate loss system takes much more, than 
      just the running engine with clutch/gearbox.
      You need all other kind of funny supporting hardware, like:
      tubing, filters for ELC box.
    
    I have been advised by one of the Dutch MG CC technical advisors:
    de-federalize the engine!
    
    It will give the car a much cleaner look, better performance and less
    breathing problems.
    
    Maybe anyone in US can check with US MGB association.
    
    I assume $1000.- is enough. You still have to pay for transport as
    well...
    Although the engine has all pollution gear, it still might fail 
    the US M.O.T.  Their law is very nasty nowadays!
    
    Hans

RE: last

Thanks for the input.  I am located in the US along with the engine and
transmission, so I would like to keep the pollution control equipment on the
car due to stricter clean air requirements now being instituted.  Transport
is not a problem since the combo belongs to a neighbor.  We could put it in 
a wagon and pull it the 200 meters to my house if necessary.

Jim

    RE: last
    
    Jim,
    
    Because you're located in the USA, I'd strongly recommend to get in
    contact with the US MGB association.
    
    Spares are obtainable through Moss, somewhere in California a.o.
    
    Cheers,
    
    Hans (NL)

    A quick question for all you old english carbuffs....
    
    A mate has got a 1970 mgb gt which has run fine for years, and now
    refuses to run at all. It turns over and has got a spark, there is
    petrol getting to the carbs (SU's) but refuses to fire.
    	He ran out of petrol a couple of weeks ago which is the only thing
    I can think of which may have caused a problem, but then again I didn't
    think it was possible to block SU's, especially both at the same time?
    
    Has anyone got any ideas, could it be ignition related rather than fuel
    related?
    
    
    Thanks,
    
    Tim

    Will it fire if the carbs are primed by pouring a small quantity of
    gas into them?  If so, I would suspect that some trash was pulled into
    the bowls and is now clogging the jets.
    
    Keep us posted...
    
    Jack
    

    I'd think of clogged jets too.
    
    In the Dutch MGCC magazine was a trip report, wherein a funny problem
    was discussed, which looked similar.
    
    There appeared to be a hole in the inlet manifold, so the engine 
    did not suck the mixture from the carbs, but out of the air directly.
    
    Hans

does anyone know how long the 1275cc engine stayed in production for the
MG Midget, before changing to the 1500cc version?

ta,


...art

1966 to 1974

    Dear John,
    
    I have a 5 liter MGV8 I have owned a MGC,MGZB,MGTD,and many a MGB.
    Engine size varies with year make and model.
    
                                                   John L

Does anyone out there have any idea how much MG's are going for these days.

Soft-top, reasonable-good-very good condition.

Any engine size,  MG or Midget.

    
    Midget 1275 or 1500
    
    A1 condition 	3500+
    
    Sound & driveable	1500-2500
    
    Restoration job	800-1300
    
    There are gaps in the price ranges 'cos you can very rarely get them
    for that price (so I've found, prove me wrong). 
    
    Nev.

Thanks Nev.

    
    
    THIS NOTE IS FROM HANS DUINHOVEN
    
    Hello all,
    
    The MG is slowly moving to a better condition, but is taking a lot of
    time.  I am now busy restoring the carburettors and there has been a
    problem: there are no replacement bushes anymore in holland. (To serve
    the butterflys spindle). There is also another argument about my cars
    colour.
    
    Are there any replacement bushe available within the Uk, if so could
    you please supply the address etc.
    
    Carburettor type is HS$ made by SU. (USA spec. MGB GT serial number =
    GHDUB239829G Date manufactured - February 1971.
    
    What difference is there between British Racing Green and Mallard Green
    (My interior is autumn leaf).
    
    Thanks for any info you can provide
    
    Regards
    
    Hans
    

    
	Hans,

    	With regard to the carburettor bushings... 
    	I would think that any machine shop would be able to easily 
    	fabricate these.
    
    
	With regard to the colour...
        According to the Moss Motors Catalog (U.S.) the green color
	for the 1971 MGBs was called New Racing Green with a factory
	color code of BLVC25.  The equivalent aftermarket colors would be:
		DuPont #30012	Ditzler #44446	R-M #BM 167

	For what it's worth, here is a list of all of the green colors
	listed in their chart.

+----------+-------------------+----------------------+-----------------------+
|  Year(s) |  Color Name       |     Description      |        Color codes    |
+----------+-------------------+----------------------+-----------------------+
|  1964-70 |  British Racing   |  Medium Dark Green   | Factory - GN25        |
|          |             Green |                      | DuPont  - 8194        |
|          |                   |                      | Ditzler - 43342       |
|          |                   |                      | R-M     - BM 079      |
+----------+-------------------+----------------------+-----------------------+
|  1964-70 |  British Racing   |  Medium Dark         | Factory - GN29        |
|          |             Green |     Yellow Green     | DuPont  - 8193        |
|          |                   |                      | Ditzler - none listed |
|          |                   |                      | R-M     - BM 078      |
+----------+-------------------+----------------------+-----------------------+
|  1971    |  New Racing Green |  Very Dark Green     | Factory - BLVC25      |
|          |                   |                      | DuPont  - 30012       |
|          |                   |                      | Ditzler - 44446       |
|          |                   |                      | R-M     - BM 167      |
+----------+-------------------+----------------------+-----------------------+
|  1972-73 |  Green Mallard    |  Dark Green          | Factory - BLVC22      |
|          |                   |                      | DuPont  - 30014       |
|          |                   |                      | Ditzler - 44638       |
|          |                   |                      | R-M     - BM 169D     |
+----------+-------------------+----------------------+-----------------------+
|  1973    |  Limeflower       |  Dark Lime Green     | Factory - BLVC20      |
|          |                   |                      | DuPont  - 30010       |
|          |                   |                      | Ditzler - 44448       |
|          |                   |                      | R-M     - BM 166      |
+----------+-------------------+----------------------+-----------------------+
|  1974-76 |  Tundra           |  Olive Drab          | Factory - BLVC94      |
|          |                   |                      | DuPont  - 43278       |
|          |                   |                      | Ditzler - 44978       |
|          |                   |                      | R-M     - BM 178      |
+----------+-------------------+----------------------+-----------------------+
|  1976-80 |  Brooklands Green |  Medium Green        | Factory - BLVC169     |
|          |                   |                      | DuPont  - 44630       |
|          |                   |                      | Ditzler - 45190       |
|          |                   |                      | R-M     - none listed |
+----------+-------------------+----------------------+-----------------------+

	I don't know how accurate this chart is, but I hope it'll help!

	Jack

THIS NOTE IS FROM HANS DUINHOVEN.

Is there anyone, who can give me a hint for repair of the steering column.
It is a U.S. MGB GT feb. 1971 with a colapseable column type with steering
lock. There has come some play in the part,where the column will break in
case of an accident. Reading the diy manual, this is a common problem for
the U.S. version of the M.G.B.

Regards,

Hans Duinhoven.

    I'm just about to re-construct the steering on my '74 MGB - does anyone
    have any hints, shortcuts etc (additional to the Haynes manual!) before
    I dive in with both feet? The car is left hand drive, but I'm not sure
    if this causes me any problems, I've succesfully changed bushes and
    kingpins, but the rack and column could be another matter. I also
    appear to have a leaking seal on the rack where the steering shaft
    enters - does anyone know of a source for this sort of item or am I
    looking at a new rack? 
    
    Thanks in advance for the flood of replies!!  Bill 

    
    You should be able to replace a seal (try one of the MG specialists who
    advertise in the classic car press). Actually swapping a steering rack
    is no big deal, but get the tracking sorted once you've reassambled the
    car, this isn't really something you can do accurately on your own.
    
    Mark

    Anyone any good on electrics on an MGB ('79) ?
    
    Problem : When turning the ignition on the ignition light 'flickers'
    and the relay clicks. Car starts OK. Whilst running the ignition light
    can come on for seemily NO reason at all. Sometims revving will get rid
    of it, sometimes just time will, once the car stalled. More recently it
    would come on when I braked, and my indicators also stopped. I can also
    get into the situation when I have no red light whilst engine is stopped -
    though the car will start.
    
    This sounds to me like a short. Any ideas on where to look. I've
    replaced the fan belt, the the two relays (ignition and ?).   I think
    the problem is around the relays but all wires look OK. 
    
    Any ideas, similar experiences ?
    
    Thanks
    
    ---Rhys

    
    	Can anyone help me.
    		My younger brother has just passed his driving test,and is 
    adement that he wants an MG.Can anyone suggest a good,reliable and
    cheapish to insure MG.
    
    	Cheers
    
    			Andy....MUFC
    

    He's obviously very young. I'd recommend a Metro.
    
    Actually, if he insists on a real MG, then about the only one he's
    likely to get insurance for is a Midget. Even then, he'd better be
    rich. To bring him back to earth, I'd suggest he gets a few quotes...
    
    The cheap part, buying the car, will set him back around 3-4 grand for
    a very good example.
    
    Laurie.

    To answer my own question - the problem was due to a dodgy connector
    on the brown lead from the relay to the fuse box - Mr RAC found out 
    for me this lunchtime after I broke down .
    
    ---Rhys

	Folks (experts and duncards all), how much would you expect to
	pay for a good condition MG-BGT?  Plus, at what age do children
	get too large to fit in the back?

	Dave

    See note 31.941 in the Reading conference for an example (I believe
    this one's still available, so you might be able to do a deal...)
    
    Richard
    

    My nearly 10 year old daughter has difficulty in sitting comfortably
    for more than short journeys in our GT. The last long (Ayr/Salisbury)
    trip was about 18 months ago, which the two children survived fairly
    well, albeit with a few stops thrown in - taking the back cushion
    out helped the height problem, but not the comfort!
    
    Bill 

Dave,

	I would say that �3500 would be about the right price for a "good"
condition MGB GT, and if you could stretch to say �5000, then you're looking at
some really nice examples.

	I have no experience of carrying kids, but from what remember of reading
articles in the club magazine, your average size kid is getting a bit big at
about 8 years old.

	If you want to have a look at some "for sale" magazines to get an idea of
price then mail me.

Chris.

    re .66

    Good Heavens - now there's an optimist for you.  Some owners are still
    asking that price range but if you look around the cars that are
    selling, which are very solid, usable examples are going for nearer
    �2000.

    Jonathan

In my opinion anything in the �2000 range is a half way house and not worth the
money. You are better off picking up something really cheap and getting it
restored, or spending the extra to get one that has already been restored and is
not going to cost a fortune in bodywork repairs. That is of course assuming you
want a model that you want to keep and looks good. As with all old cars,
mechanical repairs are cheap compared to structural ones.

    re .68 true in 1989, alas not true today.  Pop down to Beech Hill and
    look at the noticeboard for sale offerings.

    Jonathan (MGB owner since 1979)

I think you two may have different ideas of what constitutes a good buy.

Dave.

    The other factor is that of people who buy a rough car to do up, most
    don't.  And rough MGs can get rougher than you might imagine.  So you
    end up with a banger that's cost you more to buy than a banger should,
    expensive work to keep it on the road, and bleak prospects when you try
    to sell it.
    
    I'd get one that's sorted.
    
    Richard
    
    PS If you do do it up, it'll cost you more in total than one that
    someone else has done....
    

    .70

    Perceptive man :-)


    Incidently, this all reminded me how motoring has changed over the
    years.  I remember in Cambridge, my chums (the Andrew's) family car was
    an MGB roadster.  Three kids under five crammed behind the seats was
    the only way they travelled.  Ah, the joys of early sixties motoring.

    Jonathan

	Well I did pop down to Beech Hill and try my (3 year old) son
	in the back of a GT.  He fitted fine in leg room and in height
	but the rear seat looks a liability (it stops before his head).
	It would be very low for my (5 year old) daughter.

	I phoned the owner's club (very helpful) and the chap there said
	that he had not fitted rear seat belts as once fitted you had
	to use them.  Now, maybe I am overly anxious about safety but
	I would like head restraints and seat belts for my offspring 
	(and myself).  He suggested visiting the owner's club rally
	at Knebworth this weekend (5th and 6th June).  This seems a
	good idea, but is it members only?

	Meanwhile, yes you can get an MGB GT for 2000 pounds, but
	I'd rather spend a little more (ie 4500) and not have to 
	restore it.  Part of the reason for this is that I do not
	have time to build another kit car and I do not want to drive
	an uninteresting car.  So, I can either buy a mini and leave
	the Marlin in the garage or I can sell the Marlin and get an
	interesting car.

	Dave

� 	an uninteresting car.  So, I can either buy a mini and leave
� 	the Marlin in the garage or I can sell the Marlin and get an
� 	interesting car.

Well Dave I never thought I'd hear you say that. :-). 

The Knebworth  do  is open to anyone.  I went 4-5 years ago; if you like MGs
its  unbelievable  -  I've never seen so many...  I'd like to have gone this
year,  but its too far.  We'll probably go the Northern event at Harewood in
September. 

I'd be  interested  in  what you eventually think about the idea of a GT for
the kids. As you say the safty factor is worrying. 

Mark

	Mark I never thought you'd worry about kid's safety, is there 
	something that you haven't told me?

	Yes, even the thought of parting with the Marlin is hard to
	take; but leaving it in a garage and not using it is worse...

	Dave

	Mark's gone awful quiet, but I'll assume that there are folks interested
	in this.

	I went yesterday (Sunday) with the family and it was a glorious event.
	Incredible numbers of MGs (of all flavours) and other stuff to do
	(beer tent, parts, displays).  We took a picnic and spent the day there.

	As for children fitting, an owner kindly let my children climb into the
	back of her BGT.  They fit quite well using seat belt fittings (captured
	nuts) that are used in the B but not in the BGT.  The seat back is a bit
	short and for children double harnesses would be better.  However, it
	is possible to fit a bar across the back of the seat and anchor seat
	belts to that (using the adult seat belt mounting point).  The BGT owner's
	children were 4 and 8 and fitted well (the 4 year old was taller
	than my 5 year old daughter, and she's tall).

	So, I'm convinced, my wife's convinced and we're going to do it.  
	Unfortunately, this means selling the Marlin (a big decision that
	I've been avoiding for a while).  It'll be a wrench (a hell of 
	a wrench).  Meanwhile, anyone care to take me out for a spin in their
	MG BGT?  I can offer a spin in the Marlin in exchange...

	Dave

    Dave,
    
    You're welcome for a spin in my MGCGT, if you don't mind the noisy
    exhaust that's just developed over the weekend.
    
    
    Jason.

    
    Hello-
    
    The batteries in my '67 MGB no longer hold a charge.
    I've looked at the simple, cheap, and obvious causes:
    loose fan belt, low water in the batteries, loose 
    connections, and so forth. But none of those suspects
    seemed to be guilty. On Saturday last, I took the car
    for a 120-mile jaunt and parked it in my driveway. An
    hour later, there was not enough current to turn the
    engine over. 
    
    I live in New Hampshire, USA and must order parts by mail.
    Before I start ordering batteries or other stuff, I 
    decided to check with fellow MGBers regarding their
    experiences and thoughts on the matter. I've  had
    the car only a few weeks, my first MG since my last B,
    another '67, was stolen in 1972.
    
    Thanks for all replies.
    
    Jeff
                 

      This problem is very familier to me. Pull the generator and put in a
    new set of brushes. If the batteries are still good, this should take
    care of the problem. If the batteries, or even one of them are bad,
    replace them with a single 12V battery. I did this several years ago
    and have never been sorry.
    
    	Al
    	1967 MGB-GT

Last time I had this happen the negative pole had a crack in it - solution 
replace the battery.

	Well I've just (2 weeks ago, just before my holidays) 
	bought a 1977 MG BGT (Tahiti blue).  I read Lindsey
	Porter's book (Buying and Restoring MGs) from cover
	to cover and took the checklists with me when I looked
	over prospective cars.

	I bought mine from an MG specialists called Richardsons
	in Staines and it had been pretty much rebuilt a year
	ago (new wings, castle rails, inner and out sills, rear
	lower wings, doors - both sides).  However, it does have
	a rather old engine (81K) which is weeping oil out of
	the front tappet cover (common).  Richardsons gave me
	various guarentees which, on my second visit, another 
	customer who had bought two cars from them confirmed.
	For example, it doesn't have a Webasto sunroof but 
	they said they'd give me the next decent one that showed
	up in their breaker's yard (they only break MGs).  They
	also had the car re-MOTed for me and so it has a year to
	go before the next one.	

	Whilst old, the engine is not feeble and it pulls well.
	Unfortunately the exhaust is of the totally loud variety,
	I'll be dumping the middle (cherry bomb) section and putting
	a decent manifold on it.

	I'm just having a bar made up to anchor rear seat belts
	to (to give a four way anchorage) and I've just ordered
	new stuffing for the driver's seat.  Oh, and it has the
	thicker anti-roll bars at the front and a spax conversion
	at the back.   So, unless I do something radical, the handling
	is as good as it gets.

	Impressions?  Well compared to the Marlin it is much heavier
	and doesn't accellerate so well up to 60 although it is better
	afterwards.  I'm not totally confident yet (not chucking it
	about much as per the Marlin) but I like the feel and position
	of it.  One thing I do like is that the engine will pull from
	any revs in any gear, so you can go into ultra-relaxed 
	mode and ignore the gearbox (after a revvy 1600 I'm having
	to make fewer changes).

	Any advice (other than "sell it quick!") gratefully received
	and should anyone wish to chat about these achronistic cars
	will find a willing partner (me).

	Dave

Welcome to  the  club  Dave!.  Needless to say when I'm next in REO, I'll be
round for a chat.  Going to be very interested in your rear seat mods. 

Mark

	Ok, so I like old cars, but sometimes working on them is a bitch.
	You know the little 1 hour jobs that take days.  Well, the MG I 
	bought was leaking oil from the front tappet cover.  So, saturday
	morning I start the arduous task of working my way through the
	air filters, carbs and exhaust manifold to get at it so that I can
	replace the gasket.  After putting the choke linkages back wrongly,
	(HAYNES: "lift off the carburettors as one unit..." - Pah!), 
	dismantling and putting them back properly (all new gaskets and
	gasket goo) I think that it was perhaps arduous but 4 hours well
	spent.  No more dribbles of oil from there, at least.  I had also
	cleaned out the tappet cover and replaced the blocked pipes from
	it to the carbs (crank oil vapour recycling?).

	What I failed to do was to tighten the tappet cover fully and as
	I was driving along yesterday I notice two things.  Firstly at
	over 50 miles an hour the car is doing a good impression of 
	a steam ship, smoke pouring out the back.  Secondly, the oil 
	pressure is very low (it's normally quite good).  I tighten up
	the tappet cover (you can at least do that without dismantling
	anything.  Drive home, still with large amounts of smoke over 50 mph.
	I spent last night cleaning off the side of the engine and the
	exhaust pipes near it and just for completeness tightening the
	tappet cover.

	This morning, guess what?   Clouds of smoke over 50 mph and there's
	still oil dribbling from the tappet cover (I can't see it dribble 
	but I cleaned it before I set off and there it was when I got here).
	By the way, I think that it is oil burning off of somewhere 'cos 
	yesterday after I stopped and opened the bonnet it was like the
	tap room at the Dog and Microwave in there.

	Right, now over to the experts.  Can you get the tappet cover
	misaligned?  How tight is properly tight?  Can you over tighten
	them?  Is it possible that what is really happening is that
	there is too much oil vapour recycling into carbs, in which case
	would that generate smoke under the bonnet?  Any ideas on this
	one?

	Dave
	

If I  remember  correctly,  there is only a single bolt holding the cover in
place.   Could  it  be  that  its been tightened too much and its warped the
cover?.  Does it look like there is oil leaking from around the cover?. 

I think  you should call the club and talk to one of the experts (0954-31125
is the only number I have).  I've always found them very helpful. 

Mark

	The number is now 0954-231125.

	Having gone out at lunchtime it is probably oil seeping around the
	tappet cover plate.  That plate is as tight as it will go.  It is
	tightened via a single bolt in the middle.  All I can think is that
	I've not quite got the cover on straight or that I've somehow 
	warped it.  If it was warped before it would have leaked as
	much oil as this.  However, I did tighten it using a short spanner 
	and so I cannot see how I could over tighten it.

	The only other idea I've got is that I did add some redex to the 
	petrol the last time I filled it up and that this is burning out
	the cylinders.  However, that doesn't explain a blue fug in the
	engine bay (and oil leaking out of the cover does).
	
	Dave

	Well I've just had a word with the MG owner's club technical 
	expert and he agrees with my diagnosis.  The tappet cover is
	leaking (more than it was).  It is (apparently) possible to get
	it on not quite straight and he recommends, yes you've guessed it,
	starting again.

	Dave

    
    I wonder ....
    
    Is it really steam?
    
    I say this as after the rebuild of my Midget after a minute or so of
    running it did a great impression of a steam train too!
    
    The thing was I did not have a one way valve from the inlet manifold to
    the crankcase breather ....
    
    Now you say that you unblocked this tube ... could it be that your B
    needs one of these valves too, and now that the tube is unblocked, the
    engine is sucking lovely oil into the engine from the crankcase?
    
    Its a possibility!
    
    Steve

	It's a possibility, but it's not steam 'cos it smells a whole
	lot like oil (and its blue).  As for the crank breather stuffing
	lots of oil into the carbs - I don't think so.  If it is, I can't
	see how you get blue smoke in the engine bay.

	What I'm going to do, is (without removing carbs et al) loosen the
	cover and see if I can swivel it into position.  If I cannot do
	this, then I may go the whole hog and remove the manifolds.  In
	the end, if I've no joy, then I'll take it to Beech Hill who I am
	sure will (for a fee) sort it out.

	Anyhow, thanks for the thoughts.

	Dave

    I suspect you have two unrelated problems. Smoke from the exhaust
    cannot result from a leaking rocker cover gasket, so that's probably
    down to the Redex.
    
    As for the rocker cover gasket, do you have the standard cover, or
    one of the aluminium jobbies ? If it's the standard one, then the
    gasket should more or less self locate, if it's the other type, try
    sticking the gasket on with grease before putting it back on. Infact,
    with either type, a layer of grease on both surfaces of the cork seems
    to help.
    

	It doesn't smoke all the time just when I get above 4000 revs.
	There is definitely smoke in the engine bay and it is losing 
	oil.  Last night I loosened the bolt holding on the (completely
	standard) tappet cover.  I then waggled it about and it had
	around 20 degrees of movement.  I then slowly tightened it up
	(waggling it between strokes) and when it was fully tightened
	I could still move it (by pushing/pulling on the pipe that comes
	out of the front of it) but only about 10 degrees.

	I'll be ringing the technical department again...

	Dave

    
    To totally rule out my possibility, simply remove the breather pipe
    from the crankcase and stick a cork in it.
    
    If it still smokes over 4000 revs, then thats my one sorted!
    
    Steve (I know how annoying these things can get to be!)

	Have you checked the colour of the plugs - if its burning oil you could
have another problem which has reared its head as a coincidence.

	This rings some very familiar bells....

	A while back (year or more) a fellow noter did a rebuild on his car and 
had similar problems - and I just cant find the note. We were all racking our
brains for that and I think it turned out to be a warped cylinder head.

	Do you know anyone with a compression tester, it would be worth checking 
it. 

	Meanwhile turn the rocker cover upside down and tap the hole down 
(up really) to effectively increase the height of the rocker box, thus giving the 
screw a little more purchase on the gasket, or you could pack the screw out with
washers as a temporary fix. Sounds like the problem is only there when the oil 
pressure passes a certain point.

Andy

	I've just dug my way down to the cover (and I mean literally
	just) and there's a couple of interesting things.  One, the
	cover is dished (inwards) just where the bolt goes, two, the
	gasket (new) that I had fitted was not square on the back of
	the cover.  It had several kinks and was thicker in some 
	places than others.

	Now a further question.  In this type of cover it looks like
	theres the caked up remnents of some wire wool like substance.
	So, should the cover have some sort of stuff inside it (why I
	don't know).  Plus, should there be a non-return valve 
	somewhere between the pipe coming from the cover and the
	pipes into the inlet manifold?

	I'll be taking the cover and gasket along to MG Spares in
	Beech Hill tommorrow.  Luckily I don't need the car until
	Monday.
	
	Dave

Re: .93	

	Ding !

Re: .94

	The "wire wool" is a kind of sludge filter to stop any big bits going up
 the pipe.


Andy

    Hallo,
    
    My name is Walter Gijselinck from Belgium and i am looking for a
    workshop manual for an early MGB ROADSTER ( from 62 to 67).If somebody
    can help me send me a mail bis6::gijselinck thanks in advance...
    
    
    Walter

	I've now put the tappet cover on (after some impact 
	technolodgy to straighten it out) with a new gasket and
	hey presto it went "home" much better and now doesn't 
	leak.  Mind you one of the float chanbers started to
	leak and required a little tweaking; that is take out
	the little rubber grommet with a bent paper clip and
	put it all back together nicely.  I was very wary of
	over tightening that arrangement and so it took a 
	couple of attempts (with a short screw driver) to stop
	it leaking.  Flushed with success, I renewed the rocker
	cover gasket.  Easy.  I put some oil in (after loosing a
	load via the tappet cover) and hey presto a lot of 
	it dribbled out onto the manifolds.  Guess who'd put in yet
	another MG gasket badly?  I'm going to avoid gaskets
	in future.

	Now, the next question, how on earth do you get the heater
	control knobs off?  I've tried poking it with a pin and
	so far, no luck.

	By the way, the MG owner's club do a book catchingly
	titled "MGB Pre-1978 Workshop Manual" cat # 001 for
	19.99 UKL.

	Dave


	

    RE: .96
    
    I know they're more expensive than places in the UK, but have you tried
    Angloparts in Mechelen? They have pretty well everything you could
    possibly want for any MG ever made (they cater for Triumph Spitfires
    too). What's not in stock, they can order. It's worth a visit, if only
    for the parts catalogue.
    
    Angloparts
    Brusselsesteenweg 245
    2800 Mechelen
    Belgium 
    015/42 37 83
    
    Cheers, Laurie.

	Yes it's me again.  I've read the manual and looked at the
	pictures in the restoration guide but neither tells me
	how you adjust the position of the seat runners.  I believe
	that there are 3 positions and the driver's seat seems to be
	in the most rearwards (ie at full rearwards adjustment the
	back of the front seat touchs the front of the back seat).
	That's too far back even for me and unfortunately too far
	back even when it's fully forward for my wife.  Before I
	put the new seat foam and webbing in she was fairly comfortable
	but now she needs a cushion behind her back.

	So, I'd like to move the seat runners one adjustment forwards,
	trouble is, how?  I've taken the seat out before and there is
	no adjustment to the floor mounted bit of the runners so it
	must be in the mounting to the seat frame, is this true?
	
	Dave

	Well MG folks, despite the response to the last 
	question I'll ask another one:

	Do any of you MG owner's at DEC Park have a club
	exhaust fitted?  If so, which one and what does it
	sound like?   Mine is a Falcon s/s exhaust with
	one box and a vague bulge somewhere else in the pipe.
	It sounds awful loud.  I've had comments like "when
	are you going to fix the exhaust?".  Before buying 
	another exhaust I'd like to hear it.

	Dave

    Hope its quieter than the Capri Club exhaust I recently bought
    (unheard). Still, its nice to be a boy-racer at my age :-)

    I have to say I noticed that it was a trifle raucous the other night as
    I followed you out of DECpark.  I have a Falcon s/s too of some seven
    years standing but I don't *think* mine emits quite such a blast
    (having rarely been on the outside when it lumbered off into the blue).

    I would say you have a strong case if you want to take it back to
    Falcon.  Mind you, that would be a fine game.

    Feel free to come and compare exhaust notes.
    
    Jonathan

	I'm going to have the carbs balanced and the car generally
	set up , maybe that'll make it quieter.  As for Falcon, they
	are a heap of steaming manure and I wouldn't normally touch
	one; this one came with the car.

	Dave

    re 1266.103

    When I had my Falcon fitted it was commented (FWIW) that it was fine
    quality, far above the norm compared to most s/s jobbies that they came
    across... 

    Thus:

    London stainless steel exhausts are a quality, but more expensive
    alternative (�170 for the Volvo Amazon compared to �130 for some
    generic version through Prettys).

    Incidently, why do you think Falcon are "steaming manure"?  When it
    comes down to it you get the quality that you pay for.  Falcon are
    *cheap*!

    Jonathan

	I used to know a chap who was once their financial director.
	Plus a friend who had one of their exhausts threw it away
	after a couple of years 'cos it went rusty.

	Dave

    Still think you should check mine out, no idea what they go for now
    (mine cost �50), it's reasonably quiet.  The worst problem is that it
    is bound to the final fixing point by a jubilee clip after a hasty
    repair on the Promenade des Anglais and hence has a slight tendancy to
    rattle against the body when the car reaches its resonance speed of
    about 65mph.

    London stainless steel exhausts are on 071-622-2120.

	Well, I went mad and had the MG tuned. It is now quieter (but
	can hardly be called quiet) and looks like it'll return a 
	third more mpg (it *was* badly out of tune).  Plus I've repaired
	the overdrive circuits (whoever re-wired it wasn't an
	electrical engineer) and fitted a new choke cable (the old
	when came off in my hand last night).  I still do not like the
	tinny/rorty note in the exhaust...

	Dave

    I heard on BBC Radio Oxford this morning that Inghams? tha main
    supplier of MG parts is moving to the old MG factory in Abingdon.
    
    Tyrone
    

    I'm in the middle of tracing what appears to be a terminal noise from
    the engine/geabox of my 74 B, and not wanting to take the engine out
    yet again (long story), I'd like to know if it's possible to remove the
    gearbox without the engine to check on the condition of the clutch,
    input shaft etc.. Having looked at the clearance it doesn't seem possible,
    but if anybody has accomplished this feat I'd be interested to know
    how!
    
    Thanks,
    		Bill

I tried on mine, I couldn't do it. Even with a club hammer on the 
obstructive bits of body work I couldn't do it !!

This was a 78 B. 

    Somehow I had the impression (fading memory probably!) that you could
    remove the box by separating it from the engine, moving it rearwards
    slightly and rotating through 90 deg to clear the starter protrusion -
    does this seem possible or just wishful thinking?
    
    Bill

Well, I'm not sure. But it seemed to me that to do this you had to release so 
much of the engine, mountings, exhaust, carbs, etc, that even if possible, it 
was going to be easier to yank the whole lot out. Particularly considering 
how easy this makes it to do any work or investigation required.

	When I bought my MGB GT that's exactly what the garage
	did to put in a new clutch.  It's a 77, so maybe there's
	more clearance....

	Dave

    Dave,
    	Thanks for the note of optimism - I'll be lying under the car
    tonight, so I'll see if it looks feasible. My main intent is to be able
    to run the engine without the gearbox, to isolate the noise (major
    clatter, but not big ends, timing chain or valves).
    
    Cheers,
    		Bill
     

    Re .114
    
    Surely you can just disengage the clutch ? (Of course that wouldn't
    stop noise originating in the clutch)
    
    Andrew

    I'm not sure where the noise is coming from, but my latest theory is
    that I may have put a little too much strain on the gearbox input shaft
    or somehow damaged the spigot bearing when I put the engine in last, so
    you can imagine my reluctance to take the engine out again. Having
    spent most of yesterday evening lying under the car it looks possible
    to get the 'box out but I'll report tomorrow on my progress.
    
    Cheers,
    	Bill 

Please be real carefull ..... remember if you start the
engine without the gearbox attached the engine mounts will
be de-tuned and the engine could shake about much more than 
intended. I have seen a horid accident where the vibration
was so great that the car fell of the jack / stands.

Regards,

Nick.

    Thanks for the warning - fortunately I came through relatively
    unscathed this weekend. After some fairly intense investigating I
    finally found the source of the noise - a flywheel loosely connected by 
    6 bolts and no dowels. I spent the rest of the weekend wondering
    how long I had before the thing came off completely and took my feet
    off...
    
    Cheers,
    	Bill
             

Hello,

I am in the process of restoring a 1967 B Roadster, I have had specially made
a set of Spax shock absorber brackets for the rear suspension. Can anbody
tell me the Spax part number I need to buy.

Also due to the fact I now work in France I am looking for a reasonably priced
specialist to finish the welding/painting of my B's bodyshell. Any 
recomendations ?

Thanks in advance

Graham
 

Hi,



Last week we enjoyed a week of South England holliday.
I'm working on an MGB, and we are about ready to deliver the car to the
garage for repainting. 
It's a '78 Texan MGB and we are still looking to find the real color for it.
Some coulors don't look so well with a rubber bumper type.
I have a book with the original color numbers, but still a colorcard does not
tell what a real painted car will look like.
So the journey gave us some opertunaty to see what colors are popular in
England. I really did not knew there are still so many out there, they must be
good those cars!

As it happenned we passed a garage in W. Sussex were we spotted a yellowish
MGB GT rubber bumper type. We both liked the color.
The name of the garage is "FLOWMOTIONS LTD" in the neigbourhoud of "COWFLOW".
I'm not 100% shure about both names as we were travelling by motorcycle in
group and had to carry on.
We passed the garage at a roundabout when coming from Horsham on the A281 i
think.

Could somebody please look in the yellow pages for the phone number of the
garage? Please include the zonal code and explain what to dial when phoning
from outside UK. Here we need to drop the leading "0" from the zonal code.

Many thanks.
Erik, a Belgian MG admirer.

    I think the following colours go fairly well with the rubber bumpers:
    
    Black (cos you can't really see the bumpers)
    Lemony yellow (black & yellow contrast re: wasps & bees)
    British Racing Green (cos BRG looks good on any MG)
    
    ... but my yellow pages isn't from that area. Sorry.

    HI,
    
    Thanks for the info.
    We considered already the British Racing Green, it looks good but the
    contrast one would get with a ligther colour is not there.
    So I went out to the British car shop (Anglo parts) to buy some spray
    yellow paint.
    I took the "snapdragon yellow" (sun yellow) wich MG used in 1980 and the
    "inca yellow" which they used in 1978-1979. I painted the two backsides
    of the car and put the rubber bumper on again to see the contrast.
    The "inca yellow" will possibly become the colour as it is more a
    classic colour.
    
    As a coincidence I met another MGB owner at the gasstation with, Youve
    guessed it, a Yellow MGB chrome bumper!
    He had it painted by a Spanish paintworker whom used the brand
    "GLASURIT". The name of the coulour for that brand (wich is very close
    to inca yellow, but somewhat lighter) is called "AMARILLO MALGRAT
    (ROV)" LEY 4643/00S. This specification came out of its Spanish books
    under the chapter BMC.
    Is it possible that MG manufactured cars for the southern countries
    somwhere down there or that they used coutry specific colours?
    

    Hi,
    
    
    
    At a car show I lately saw some MGBs with badges on the front side
    wings. Some of them had a "Leyland" badge on both wings.
    Some others had small "Union Jack" badges on the sides.
    I assume tye Leyland badges are original, because LEyland possibly one
    owned MG. But are the Union Jack badges genuine and in which years were
    they placed on the MGBs?
    
    Regs,
    Erik.

    
    I would think the Union Jack badges were not original. I have seen many
    classic cars with one of these small badges that they have obviously
    added on.
    
    - Jonathan

    re: .122
    
    He had it painted by a Spanish paintworker whom used the brand
    "GLASURIT". The name of the coulour for that brand (wich is very close
    to inca yellow, but somewhat lighter) is called "AMARILLO MALGRAT
    
    I'm curious about the brand "GLASURIT".  That name came up when I had
    some parts of my BMW motorcycle painted.  I'm not sure if Glasurit is
    what I ended up with, but it was about $65 for a half pint.  Whew!  I
    wondered if Glasurit was a brand name or a type of paint.   ???
    
    Bob

    Glasurit is a brand name, using, I believe, a colourful macaw for its
    logo.
    
    Cheers, Laurie.

Laurie is correct about the logo.  Glasurit is a urethane paint made by BASF.  I
believe that my 1989 325i had a Glasurit paint job.  I think that Porsche's come
with Glasurit, as well.

The guy at my local paint shop can't say enough good stuff about it.  90% of his
sales are to body shops and he said he is selling more and more Glasurit as time
goes by.  Its supposed to be very durable, but no worse than Acrylic Enamel to 
apply.


I'm planning on using it for my MGA.  They can mix any colour, so I'll give him
the codes I have for MG "glacier blue" and he can cross reference with the
glasurit guide to mix it up. 


-Al

    I cannot say that the paint on my two-wheeled beemer is especially
    durable; It has little pits all over the front surfaces.  It is very
    attractive when clean and polished, however.
    
    Bob

	MGs *never* had little Union Jacks on them.  For a time
	the sides of the front wings had a BL label on them (black
	grill to black bumper, if my memory serves me correctly).
	However, most restorers drop the BL labels if they replace
	the wings unless they're after absolute accuracy (mine doesn't
	have them).

	Oh, and Inca Yellow looks great with black bumpers.  Mines
	Tahiti blue and that doesn't look bad either...

	Dave

    Dear MG-folks
    
    Since a few months I am busy restoring a B.
    The body has been stripped and at the usual places welded-in.
    At the moment I am at the spraying-job.
    
    When this has been finished there will be a moment an engine
    has to be fitted in. Alas, there is not one available at the moment!
    
    I've been thinking of getting over to England to get one, maybe
    one from a Morris Marina or an Austin Princess from the scrapyard.
    
    Does anyone have suggestions to that, maybe with some price-indications
    or addresses?
    
    BTW I live in Holland, in a little town called Diepenveen,
    which is located in the east of Holland near Apeldoorn.
    
    
    Thanks for any info!
    
    Greatings,
    Ron
    

	Ron,
		the MG owner's club is the best place for
	addresses.  You have to be very careful about second
	hand engines.  There's a company called Richardsons which
	is just off of the M25 (can't remember the address), they
	specialise in MGs and have tons of spare bits.  If you're
	keen I can get you the address.   The price of a reconditioned
	engine (from the owner's club) is around 550 pounds with a 
	bit more for an unleaded head.

	Dave (77 BGT)

    RE 1266.131
    
    Dave, thanks for your reaction.
    
    I will contact the owner's club. I have also the possebility of
    restoring an engine with a friend, who has a workshop with all
    equipment. A scrap-engine is an option, so if you have any idea about
    the price of that? I need a gearbox and transaxle also!
    
    Greetings,
    
    Ron
    

	From memory (the owner's club magazine).  An axle costs
	around 200 pounds and I guess that a scrap engine wouldn't
	be very much (100 pounds); there are usually a few advertised
	in the magazine.   Shame your friend's not in the UK, I 	
	could do with an engine rebuild - mine goes ok but it 
	burns and loses more oil than I want...

	Dave

    Dave, thanks for your reaction.
    
    I will contact the owner's club. I have also the possebility of
    restoring an engine with a friend, who has a workshop with all
    equipment. A scrap-engine is an option, so if you have any idea about
    the price of that? I need a gearbox and transaxle also!
    				^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
    Greetings,
    
    Ron
    

	Why would you need both, I ask myself - or are they for different cars? 
I thought that a Transaxle is a Gearbox and Differential (usually the rear axle)
combined?

				Malcolm.

    Malcolm,
    
    Excuse me for my English, but I meant the connecting piece of
    hardware between the gearbox and the differential!!
    
    Ron
    

	I've had my MG BGT for a year now and still cannot
	figure out (from the handbook or the car) how the
	lever controlling air flow through the vents works.
	Fully forward (towards the front of the car) and
	full back (towards the back of the car) - same result.

	Any ideas?

	Dave

    Have you verified that the connection between the lever and the
    wire/rod is still sound?
    
    I've had this problem on non-MG cars and the problem has been fixed as
    follows:
    
    At the far end of the lever there's a drilled pillar through which the
    actuating rod or wire passes.  The rod/wire is gripped by a grub screw.
    But with time the grub screw slackens off, so moving the lever slides
    the pillar up and down the rod/wire.  Retighten the screw and "bingo!"
    it all works again.

	No, I haven't verified that something is not connected.
	I kinda didn't want to dismantle the console without
	good reason.  I would like to know which way is supposed
	to turn it off so I can figure out if there's a difference
	in air flow - however small.

	Dave

	Maybe this should go in the small questions note, but the car
	is an MG and so...

	I purchased some alternative air filters for the SUs (they are
	little pancake filters with SU attractively written on them).
	When I fitted them I noticed that I had a slight misfire at 
	around 3500 revs.  I took them off and I still had the misfire.
	I traced that problem to a dodgy low tension wire when I fitted
	new points and a condensor (and a distributor cap and new
	HT leads).  I fixed the dodgy wire with dodgy connectors from
	Halfords (all that I could get at the time) and those failed 
	after 50 miles [aside: it's really interesting driving at 50
	mph down a motorway because the engine misfires above 2500 rpm].
	I fixed the dodge wire again and all was well.   In a fit of
	enthusiasm I fitted the new filters back on and guess what, I
	now have a slight misfire at around 2500 rpm.  Not higher and
	not lower.

	Now, I could put the old ones back on and see if I still have
	the misfire but my guess is that it isn't an electrical problem
	(I think that I've solved it) and that the carbs need to be
	better set up to cope with more air gushing in.  However, I'm
	a little worried that I still have a dodgy low tension 
	connection.   Ideas at this point would be welcome.

	Dave

    Check out your points. I put a new set of points in my spit and had
    exactly the same problem. Cheapo halfords points dont seem to line up
    right sometimes due to bad manufacture and at high revs even though
    your gap is set well the spark arcs over the outer edge of the contact
    surface, hence the misfire. A quick look with the cap off will show if
    the points are bad.You should also see this with a dwell meter at high
    revs.
    			brian.
    			

    I think I may have seen the some of the new MG in London today.They
    looked like TVR's,but there were MG badges on  the wheels...
    
    Tyrone
    

The MG Owner's Magazine was delayed by two weeks this month
so that they could feature the MGF.  They got it just right,
I was watching a news article about the launch and hey presto
Mr Postman sticks the magazine through my letterbox.

It's mid engined and looks like a cross between the MX 5 and
the TVR.  There's a touch of the rubber bumpered B about the
front grill.  The Owner's Club magazine is a friendly witness
but they gushed about the car.  I certainly looks nice and
at 15K the price is about right.

Dave

I'm sure the answer to this is in this conference somewhere - but I can't 
find it!

Is the new MG rear wheel drive?

Real let down if they are producing another Astra/Golf/205 boy racer clone.

Rupert

    The new MG is the MGF.
    
    A dir/tit=mg will find the MGF note 970.
    
    Royston