Conference terri::cars_uk

       I've just read all the replies to this topic. I have to admit that,
       up until a few weeks ago, I never thought I'd ever be entering a
       note here! But in January, after 15 years of motoring (and about
       20 cars) I bought my first mini -  a 1977 Clubman 1100 Berkeley
       Convertible.

       It was originally intended as a car for my wife, but I've given
       her my lease Peugeot 205 and I'm driving the mini myself. It's been
       a long time since I had so much fun driving a car!!

       Several types of convertible are mentioned in this note, but not
       the Berkeley. Does anyone know anything about the company (is it
       the same company that used to make cars)? The conversion is
       extremely professional, with a well made hood  - totally
       waterproof (it's been thoroughly tested). It has an oval shaped
       rear window, and proper side windows.

       Any information gratefully received.

       Ian (looking forward to Summer).

    
       Hello All,
    
                 I have just become the proud owner of a 1966 Austin Mini.
       This is the first Mini I've owned, and I require some info on this 
       car.
                 The car is in a pretty sorry state, the floor is a la
       "Flintstone's" saves on the petrol but murder in the wet. The front 
       end is in need of replacement, new wings, hinge panels.
    
                 Would it be best to use original BMC panels were possible
       or use pattern panels from the likes of "Pop-On"?
    
                 The car's original colour is a "battleship Grey", very
       much like a gloss grey primer. I've been thinking of changing it to 
       Red or BRG with a White room. Would it be better to retain the
       original colour for value considerations?
    
                 It also has a 850cc engine at present, I don't have the 
       documents as yet so can't tell if it's the original engine. Is there
       anyway I can find out? Also is it possible to tune the 850cc to a
       decent degree for road use or would it be advisable to change it for
       a large lump?
    
    
                    Thanks in advance.
    
    
                                    Alan(who's_now_got_a_new_toy)      
    
               
     
    
                 

    Alan,
    
    The big advantage of original pannels is that they fit properly
    - they do tend to be a bit more expensive though. I used "non-original"
    pannels for my Spitfire MK3, and had nothing but problems to adjust
    them properly, they were cheaper, but I spent days after adjusting,
    and finally had to ask a body shop to do it.
    
    Regarding any modifications to A series engines, buy David Vizard's
    book on A series tunning. The 850 can be tunned, but he recommends
    at least a 998 lump be used as a base. There is notably one very
    interesting chapter on bolt on modifications, which I particularly
    appreciated.
    
    Paul (1275GT)

>     It also has a 850cc engine at present, I don't have the 
>     documents as yet so can't tell if it's the original engine. Is there
>     anyway I can find out? 

       Write to the DVLC and request copies of all the original
       documents. I've done this several times in the past, and the docs
       you get back can be really fascinating. 

       I've just done this for my mini, and discovered that it had spent
       some time as a works vehicle for a firm of plumbers in Glasgow. It
       also gave me the date that it had been converted to a cabriolet.

       The address is DVLC, SWANSEA, SA99 1AN.  
       (The postcode is important).

       Ian.

    
    Hi All,
    
           Can anyone tell me if all 848cc Mini's have removable cover
    plates to allow access to the cam followers. I was under the impression
    that this was only a feature found on Cooper engines.
    
           Also is there anybody who has an offside rear lens for the
    original style rear light cluster, or can you still buy these from
    Lucas or some of the mini specialists.
    
                       Thanks.
                                 Alan.
    

    re .100
    
    There was an ad in Thoroughbred and Classic Cars for a company (in
    England) that makes 'authentic' reproduction lights and has an
    extensive stock of NOS (New Old Stock).  Don't have it handy.
    
    	-Barry-
    

    Re .100 ....
    
    850 engine
    
    ---- casting number '12 1456', '2A 628' or '2A 629' on head beneath
    rocker cover (careful could also be 998)
    ---- casting number or plate riveted to back of block stating '850'
    ---- measure bore (62.9mm)                                          
                                                                        
    998 engine                                                          
                                                                        
    ---- casting number '12 1456', '2A 628' or '2A 629' on head beneath 
    rocker cover (careful could also be 850)                            
    ---- casting number or plate riveted to back of block stating '998'
    ---- measure bore (64.6mm)
    
    998 Cooper engine       
                      
    ---- casting number '12G 295' or '12G 206' cast in head
                      
    1098 (1100) engine
                     
    ---- Engine mountings on front plate
    ---- Temperature guage connection in cylinder head
                                                      
    1300/1300GT engine                                
                                                      
    ---- no removeable tappet covers                  
    ---- Engine mountings on front plate
    ---- Temperature guage connection in cylinder head
    
    Mini 1275GT engine
    
    ---- no removeable tappet covers
    ---- engine mountings in standard Mini location
    ---- head retained by either 9 studs or 8 bolts+1 stud
    
    1275 'S' engine
    
    ---- head retained by either 9 studs or 8 bolts+ 1 stud
    ---- removeable tappet covers
    ---- measure stroke (81.3mm)
                                
    1071 'S' engine             
                               
    ---- head retained by either 9 studs or 8 bolts+ 1 stud
    ---- removeable tappet covers
    ---- measure stroke (68.26mm)
    
    970 'S' engine
    
    ---- head retained by either 9 studs or 8 bolts+ 1 stud
    ---- removeable tappet covers
    ---- measure stroke (61.91mm)
    
    Note   1275GT Mk IV head has 9 studs
           1300GT, MG1300Mk II. late Cooper 'S' have 11 stud heads.
    
    Source:
    
    "Guide to purchase and DIY Restoration of the Mini -- All Models"
    
    Author: Lindsay Porter
    
    Pub: Foulis
    
    ISBN #: 0 85429 3795 
                 

Prompted by note 1195.?,

Does anyone have any performance figures/info on the 'new' mini cooper.

Thanks Ian.

    Here's some intresting info. The other day I caught  a peek at, I think
    it was FAST CAR of some other simular magazine, someone is producing
    twin cam 16v heads for the mini engine. Pictures showed a nicely
    machined alloy head with twin 40mm webber carbs with very short bell
    mouths. I beleive there was mention of a full stage 3 head. If nothing
    else that is going to be a real mean mother. If anyone is really
    intrested I'll try and grap the mag and tell more.
    
    
    Garry

It would be a pretty expensive mod to the block as well to get a timing chain
up into the head: A series engines have the camshaft down in the block, with
pushrods and so on to transfer the motion to the rockers up top.

Or am I missing something?

Scott

    A very good point, I really didn't read much of the article. However
    thinking about the picture of the head ,it had pullies at the end of
    the camshafts. It looked like it was intended to be driven via a
    toothed belt. I really pass on the ins and outs of it . I'll read the 
    article and give a better account of whats what.
    
    Garry

    
    Sure it wasn`t a BDA or some such beasty???
                                                  Dougie

re: .106

   You wouldn't need to modify the block. Just drive the overhead cam from
   the end of the crankshaft using a toothed belt. You would have to leave the
   original cam in place to drive the distributor and possibly the fuel pump.

Mark

    Re:- the 16 valve head.
    
    
    The block uses is a standard 1275cc block , although its bored to 1293.
    The head itself has been prototyped and tested but as yet is not on
    sale. The expected sale price is thought to be around �2700, just a
    touch expensive. The head is a complete new design and has been built
    and designed for racing.  The cams ( don't say who's ) are driven off
    the the crank via a  toothed belt.  The cam operation has been
    designed simular to that used by the ford pinto ,with tensioners etc.
    The article chunters on more about the effort put into the design and
    less about the technical details. The valves are bucket and shim jobs
    but have been specially designed as there was nothing that would do the
    job. There's obviously more to it than meets the eye but not mentioned.
    It breifly mentions oil and has pictures of gearbox modifications.
    
    The testing has been on a dyno and track. Flow meter tests show that
    the air flow in the 16 valve head is far and away better that a
    current full race head.  Dyno tests for the engine show it produces in
    the order of 180-200 bhp!!!!!! Track testing with a 40mm webbers on at
    (track unknown) by someone called Glyn Swift ( races in Metro turbo
    challenge) sound promissing. He thought that the engine was a lot
    quicker that his turbo race engine although the chassis was not really
    up to the power, to quote "its bloody quick".
    
     For anyone intrested its in septembers Fast car magazine.
    
    
    Garry

    I suppose since I started this topic yonks ago I deserve the right to 
    re-open it. 
    Anyway since I last wrote I have purchased a 1967 850 Automatic and I
    want to buy a Mini Mayfair for day-to-day use. My problem is that they
    were never a great seller here in Ireland and I know I will have to
    import one from Northern Ireland or the mainland U.K.
    
    What am I likely to get for about �3000 sterling i.e. how new,
    condition?
    
    Also, what were the specifications of the Mayfair?
    
    
    Any help appreciated,
    
    Billy

    
>    Also, what were the specifications of the Mayfair?
    
Er, 1000cc engine, different gear box to "normal" minis (20 1st, 45 2nd, 
70 3rd, 90 4th), goes like a "bat-out-of-h**l" (mine used to happily do 90 on
the flat...), once you change the pirelli tyres it comes with to Michelin 
Radials, handles beautifully.

There is one drawback, the brakes (drums all round) are really not up to the
improved speeds it is capable of.  You have to anticipate well... 

The interior is positively luxurious (again compared to normal minis). The 
controls are standard.  The guages are in the normal mini layout, another minus 
is that it doesn't have a clock, the rev-counter replaces the clock found in 
cheaper minis.

Mine stood up well to commuting 100 miles a day for a year, and then 150 miles 
a day for another few months (before I got the Nova).  Nothing went wrong with 
it, and it was serviced every couple of months (6000 mile services), it had 
done approx 65000 miles in 18 months, by the time Fleet took it off me :-(

Fuel consumption was between 38 and 45 mpg (depending on how I drove it !)

It did have the annoying Mini engine problem of the distributor cap getting 
filled with water when there was a *lot* of spray around, but this was cured by 
fitting a rubber glove over cables, cap and casing....simple and cheap !

Nice little car anyway :-)

    Re: -1
    
    Thanks for the info. Just a few more queries:
    
    Is a sunroof standard?
    What kind of seat material is used?
    How much will I pay for a good '86 model?
    Were they all black?
    
    Billy

    
>    Is a sunroof standard?

No.

>    What kind of seat material is used?

That sort of short furry type of seat covering...

It was tan in my Red Mayfair...I've seen a dark bluey/grey in a blue one...

>    How much will I pay for a good '86 model?

Heaven knows.....were they made in '86 ?

Mine was a January '89 model.

Try looking in the Car buyer's guide...

>    Were they all black?

Oh, no....red, white, blue, black, green  etc, etc

Hi,

A limited edition of the legendary Cooper have been produced. Germany has 
received 500 cars. Any colour you like as long as it's green with a white roof 
and two white stripes on each side of the bonnet with John Cooper's signature.
1300 cc and producing 61 hp with cat. Wheel arches and aluminium sports rims.
Luxurious interior by mini standards: wooden dashboard with rev counter etc.
sports steering wheel, smart cloth upholstery. Rest still the same ie. 4 forward
gears, small petrol tank etc. Price in Germany: 16,500 Deutschmarks which is 
approx. 5,500 pounds sterling. Think I'll get one for my birthday!!

Cheers
Mitch_who_owned_his_first_mini_in_1968
(I still even remember the number plate: CTG 124 B)

    �limited edition of the legendary Cooper
    �approx. 5,500 pounds sterling.
    
    Worth going to Germany if you want one of these, as I believe it costs
    over �7000 on the road over here.
    
    - Roy

    It's about �9000 in Ireland.
    
    Billy (who's picking up a '67 Mk.1 Cooper on Saturday)

    
    The 'original' (1990) limited series in the UK was 8000 on the road.
    List was 7.5k (no discounts available) + delivery, road fund etc.
    I liked the car but hated the tacky sunroof. Yuk! 

    The one available now is cheaper, doesn't have a sunroof (not sure
    what the insides are like) and there is a 'Cooper S' kit which
    raises the power to 80bhp (�1200). Sounds fun :-). 

    

    There is a garage in Edinburgh that has an original Cooper S this car
    is in EXCELLENT condition thay are looking for around the #7000 mark.
    
    
    Ian.
    
    P.S They also have a Testarossa if anyone is interested?? :-)

    I'm hoping to be in the Ayr plant for a week in the near future.
    Having a '67 Mk.1 Cooper 998cc and a '67 848cc Automatic, I was
    wondering if there are any good Mini specialists in the Ayr/Glasgow
    area.
    
    Any names/addresses/phone numbers?
    \
    Billy

    Having being unfortunate enough to collide with a stone chip last
    Sunday, the windscreen in my '67 Mk.1 Cooper was shattered.
    
    2 questions: 
    
    1) What year were laminated screens introduced for Minis
    2) Will a more modern screen fit a Mk.1?
    
    Billy

    Hi,
    
    I am the proud owner of a black MINI Mayfair '84 and I love it!
    
    But...,
    I hope someone can help me and give me some advice on the following
    problem.
    
    When it rains, the open space next to the dashboard is getting wet,
    sometimes it even has a little "pool" in it (if you know what I mean).
    Also there comes water from behind the little heating thing in the
    middle of the dashboard.
    
    What can I do about this?? I am not technical or anything, so do I have
    to go to the garage for this?? I already told the people from the garage 
    this, but maybe I can do something myself?
    
    Any suggestions are welcome ofcourse!
    Thanks in advance,
    Ilse.
    
    PS: Are there any Dutch readers who are member of the Dutch
        MINI-7-club? 
    
    
    

    there went something wrong when I gave my reply (.123) a title!
    
    
      

�    there went something wrong when I gave my reply (.123) a title!
    
    You can actually correct/change the titles on your notes.
    
    Use the command :-		SET NOTE/TITLE="correct or new title string"
    
    and it will update it (if you are the original author, or a moderator).
    
    J.R.

    I bought a K&N air filter for my '85 Mini City E, hoping that it would
    marginally increase performance.   I did this mainly because all my
    'rally' friends swear by K&N, and reckon it's the most easy and least
    costly mod. to do to a car.
    
    Why then should it make the car difficult to get up to 70mph, you
    honestly have to floor it!  It also messed up my fuel economy, but then
    I expected that.  Since getting the new filter I have replaced it with
    the standard filter and suddenly the car is infinitely more refined(ie.
    induction roar), fuel economy is back and only minimum amounts of
    throttle are needed to reach top speed.
    
    Anyone know why?
    
    Matt. (C133 CBK)

Ahhh Gi'day...�

    Cause you  just  screwed  up  the tune, big time.  This IS one of those
    Hi-flow  jobbies,  isn't  it?  Induction  roar will always be more on a
    filter that a mozzie can fly through without pulling in his wings.

    He's right you know.... The K&N allows a far higher through-put of air,
    and your mixture will need to be adjusted to suit. As it's probably an
    SU carb, you'll probably also need to change the jet. Evidence of this
    air-flow is there for all to hear when you clog it!
    
    Cheers, Laurie.

	K&N's should let more air flow through the engine than any standard
	filter.  However, this will alter the fuel air mix.  I guess that
	more flow must mean a weaker mix.  So, if you add a K&N, then have
	the car re-tuned.

	Dave

RE:  You'll probably have to change the jet.


Don't you mean the "needle(s)"?

I did the same thing on my Midget and the sucker would run way too lean, that is
until I put on new needles.  Now it really cooks!

-Al

    I changed to KNs on my Doly-Sprint-engined Triumph-TR7,  changed the 
    needles and then had it tuned.  Noise from air intake was very noticable
    (but not when I added the Triumphtune sports exhaust !), but main
    change was the more instant throttle responce.  The instructions say
    you must regularly oil these filters - I never did, as they charge
    a fortune for the special oil!

	I regularly clean and change the oil on mine, if you don't they
	get dirty and richen the mixture...

	Dave

    re: K&N's
    
    Thanks for the response!  What jet should I use?, and how easy is this to
    fit because as you can probably tell I've had very little experience
    with serious work on car's. (Basically I've cleaned the spark plugs and
    other general maintenance.
    
    	Matt (With the cutest Red Mini ever)

    Oh I almost forgot!
    
    How can I stop the filter from resting on the bulkhead because I can't
    figure out a way and when you start the car up in the morning the
    filter thumps the bulkhead and does it no good whatsoever.
    
    Also, what sort of performance increase should I get with it on (and
    with the carb set up right), and will the fact that the A+ has an
    economy cylinder head make any difference?
    
    Matt.  (Words have not been created to describe the Mini!) 

    
�Re.134 
�                      -< The Self-Preservation Society. >-

    An "Italian Job" fan?
    
    I think getting the correct needle is a job for the experts. 
    
    |   If this is the needle then each of the 'segments' (not visible)
    |   has a differnt diameter. I can't remember how many segments
    |   an SU needle has, but it is a lot. The diameter of each of the
    |   segments is listed in an SU guide and is measured in thou'
    |   The different segments correspond to the different positions
    |   the needle will be in in the airflow, depending on things like
    |   engine revs, throttle opening, ignition advance/retard etc.
    |
    
    I used to have this sort of stuff done by an SU agent in Woking.
    It would take about half an hour of revving the engine at different
    speeds, listening, measuring the exhaust gases, trying different
    needles until he was satisfied that the needles were roughly ok. 
    Then, you'd get to take it for a run and come back with comments. 
    Using the comments, his own knowledge and a big book listing all
    the needles, their diameters etc he'd come up with some other
    variants and the process would start again.
    
    

What's the going rate for an original 1961 Austin Mini in excellent condition
and 45000 miles on the clock?  Some body rust in the seams, but nothing serious.
Eberything else looks perfect, particularly underneath.

tempted.....

Brian

�    I think getting the correct needle is a job for the experts. 
    
    K+N should be able to tell you just which needle to fit...
    
    As for avoiding the filter/bulhead contact, does the engine have
    a steady bar fitted at the top.  If not, I believe you can buy these,
    or fit stiffer bushings in existing mounts (which will lead to more
    noise and vibration getting into the car).
    
    J.R.

    Hi there,
    
    I'm glad to see that this topic is "alive" again.
    And because of that, I'd like to ask the readers to read
    reply .123 again. I really hope someone can help me with
    my problem.
    
    By the way, are there any Dutch readers who are a member 
    of the MINI-seven-Club???
    
    Thanks in advance,
    Ilse*
    
    
    
    

A request:-

		Has anyone out there got a Mini Mayfair steering wheel just
		lying about the house, getting in the way.   And would like
		to see it back in service on a cute red mini!

		You have!

		Oh great, because if anyone's got one I'd love to buy it off
		them because I'm a little too tall for the normal City E
		steering wheel.

		Matt B.
		

I used to have a 1975 Clubman which, no matter, how much bathroom sealant I
injected into the thing, or how much I fiddled with the door seal, and door 
fitting, I could not stop the little bugger leaking!

So I buy a 1985 City E!  And it does the same!

I think they call it sods law, or 'design flaw'.

	Matt B.
 

    
    
    Would anyone consider a 1700 Ford Crossflow, on a Mini 'box, in a
    racing Mini shell a fast car?
    

    
    
    Hi All,
    
    
           Its about time for the Mini owners gathering at Stanford Hall,
    Lutterworth. I have not seen any advertising for this event in the
    Classic Car type mags. Does anyone know when it is on this year, last
    year it was 16th Sept. 
    
    
                          Alan.
    
    P.S  If a 1700 Xflow in a mini is classed as a fast car what about a
    twin cam Lotus in a Mini Clubman Estate.
    
    
                                      

    Re .143
    
    
    Or a 1.4 Turbo A Series in a standard mini bodyshell, or a 3.5 Rover V8
    in the back of a minivan.
    
    Clive

    Lets face it just about every engine has been squeezed into those
    little beggers!
    
    
    Ian.
    
    
    

    The 1700cc Ford Crossflow would ahve the same BHP of 130 and would cost
    considerably less, and be more reliable, it would have less torque or
    course though.
    
    Does anyone know anything about Oselli engines, because it looks like
    I'll have to go for a 1293cc engine as the insurance company won't
    touch me if I get the 1700.
    
    	Matt.

    
    I could give you an address for Oselli!
    
    S.

    Right.
    
    About 4 months ago I was whinging in this topic about a K&N air filter
    and fitting it to my Mini.
    
    I have decided that this weekend is the time to try to put it back on
    and increase the mixture accordingly.
    
    My question to everyone is.....
    
    Is what I propose viable, ie. I'm not going to naff my engine up.
    
    And has anyone got any suggestion as to how to go about tuning the
    engine once I have put the new filter on?
    
    Hope you can help,
    
    	Matt.
    

>>    Is what I propose viable, ie. I'm not going to naff my engine up.
>>    
>>    And has anyone got any suggestion as to how to go about tuning the
>>    engine once I have put the new filter on?
    
    It certainly is viable.
    
    As for re-tuning your engine, if it's bog standard at present, then
    K+N, or the company who flogs you the filter, will be able to give
    recommendation for which needle/jet changes you need...
    
    Only disadvantage I can see is the increased noise - do you care ?
    
    Other possible problem could be carb icing, as you will no longer
    be getting a warm air feed (if you set the air intake up before).
    I shouldn't think this is too likely to be a real problem though.
    
    J.R.

    
    I agree about the carb icing, as at the moment I do have a warm air
    feed to the current air filter.
    
    As for the correct needle, is it possible to increase the mix with the
    current needle so that it will work right or have I definitely got to
    find an S.U. dealer and get a new needle?
    
    Matt.
    
    P.S. Who much would a new needle cost, and can it be fitted myself, and
    I tune the engine OK afterwards?

>>    As for the correct needle, is it possible to increase the mix with the
>>    current needle so that it will work right or have I definitely got to
>>    find an S.U. dealer and get a new needle?
    
    I would think that getting the specified needle would be your best bet.
    Any SU tuners out there who can pass comment on this ?
    
    The needle itself should be a very cheap part, easily fitted.
    
    It is actually possible to modify the shape of a needle to increase
    the richness of the mixture at a given point in its range by the
    simple method of filing it !  This will be a very hit-or-miss affair
    and I certainly wouldn't recommend doing it without a rolling road to
    check the results as you go.
    
    I would guess that the car will run fine without changing the needle,
    although it will in theory be running a bit weak.  Maybe some other
    tweaking could avoid this, but I'm not a Mini-type so don't know much
    about setting up these engines/carbs (although I've got a large pair
    of SU's sitting in my garage whic fit on a 2-litre Opel engine).
    
    J.R.

    ... and don't forget the spring. To tune the SU, the needle and spring
    can be changed, although if all you are changing is the air filter, I
    would suspect that only a change of mixture is needed.

    
    Well according the MGOC (who may or maynot have a vested interest in
    this) whenever you move from paper air filters to K&N you should always
    replace the needle .... a change of mixture doesn't do it for some
    reason and it just makes the engine run rough and dirty!
    
    Steve

    Well, I would suggest that before you change the needle you try to
    get it running properly by mixture adjustment. I say this because if
    you spend around 4 quid on a new needle the same as the one fitted and
    it proves to be impossible to richen the mixture enough.....  I would
    suspect though, that a mixture change will do it, in which case, by all
    means buy a new needle when you're happy.
    
    The previous note regarding filing the needle brings up an important
    point on SU needles. The have a "profile" by which I mean that not only
    are they tapered like a needle, but their circumference varies along
    their length. The purpose of this is to allow more petrol at certain
    stages of accelleration, and are designed to fit in with specific fuels
    demands at certain revs. A symptom of this is flat spots or spluttering
    during accelleration. If you do find you need to change your needle,
    speak to an expert. I'd suggest one of the SU restoration people who
    advertise in the Classic mags. They're usually happy to help, and will
    probably know (and will supply) the correct profile.
    
    Laurie.

... and the spring determins the rate at which the dashpot allows the
needle to rise with respect to the induction generated by the engine.

The "correct" needle on its own is not always enough. I would suspect
K&N should be able to recommend the appropriate needle and spring for
the new filter.

>>... and the spring determins the rate at which the dashpot allows the
>>needle to rise with respect to the induction generated by the engine.
    
    Also affected by the weight (density) of the oil used in the dashpot...
    
    That near enough covers the working of an SU carb (except for
    the jet and accelerator pump) so it shows that they are relatively
    simple, and that they can be easily adjusted.
    
    It also means you have more scope to get things wrong if you start
    mucking around without any facts to go on (which I can't provide).
    
    J.R.

    RE: last two.
    
    Ooops, I forgot to mention those aspects. Quite correct, both of you.
    
    If I remember correctly, springs are marked with coloured paint to
    indicate strength. I use ordinary 20/50 in my dashpot.
    
    Laurie.

... and they don't have accelerator pumps (or the old ones don't at least).

    Humm, interesting...
    
    My Spitfire is K&N equipped (SU HS 2's) I did change the springs from
    yellow to red if I recall correctly, but I did not change the needles -
    performance and fuel consumption are very positive - the carburators
    were new though.
    
    Did I do something wrong ?
    
    Paul

>>... and they don't have accelerator pumps (or the old ones don't at least).
    
    I'm sure that some SU's do have them, but I couldn't tell you which ones.
    
    J.R.

    Thanks for the help all.
    
    I'm now even more confused than before!!
    
    I can't seem to find an S.U. dealer around Reading so I've had to can
    changing the filter until I've spoken to them, saying that of course, I
    would love just change the filter, increase the mix and hope that all
    is well, but I've tried it before and I couldn't manage it then.
    
    Plus, K&N have just brought out a new filter for the Mini which
    actually clears the bulkhead (as the one I've got now doesn't)!!
    
    I could put on the current filter for the minute but I can't set it up
    right.  In the future, however, I have an RC40 exhaust system planned,
    new outlet/inlet manifold and 1 1/2 inch carb, with the new K&N on. 
    Should gice me about 22% extra power. (That's an increase from about
    40bhp at the fly, to about 50/50bhp.)
    
    Oh and by the way SU's don't have accelerator pumps, at least none that
    ever went on a Mini.
    
    Has anyone seen the Mini Cooper 1.3i ??
    
    It's supposed to have about 63bhp, which for an injected 1.3 engine
    seems a little low to me, when you think that the MG Metro engine
    produced about 72bhp in standard form.(I know which one I'd rather have
    though!)
    
    
    
    And another thing.......
    
    <BEST RANTING HEAD ON>
    
    Why could Rover improve the Mini fuel tank
    because I filled up yesterday, drove off round the Woodley roundabout,
    thumped into a manhole cover and a Cavelier Behind me went nutty on the
    lights and horn, I thought "Oi sod off leave me alone, I mean I'm not
    that threatening on the road".  Anyway, he abviously saw gags of petrol
    jumping out of my tank because there was tons of it down the back of my
    car.  I blame Rover for not fitting a locking fuel cap as standard!!
    
    <BEST RANTING HEAD OFF>
    
    Matt.

>>    Oh and by the way SU's don't have accelerator pumps, at least none that
>>    ever went on a Mini.
    
    I'm pretty sure the ones I've got do have a pump, but they are
    about 2-inch in size, not the sort expected to be fitted to Mini's.
    I haven't looked at these for some time though, they are presumably
    buried somewhere in the back of my garage, so I cannot confirm this.
    
    Thinking on, I probably have a Haynes manual for SU carbs from
    about the same time I had the carbs.  Perhaps that will be easier
    to find than the actual items themselves.  But should I bother ?
    
>>    Has anyone seen the Mini Cooper 1.3i ??
    
    Not me, is this a 'current' model of some sort ?
    
    If so, I would guess that this is of the basic (single point ?) form of
    injection, which makes it easier for an engine to pass emissions tests,
    rather than for any real performance gain.  Perhaps not.
    
    J.R.

    Here's a small question for those of you with sporty Minis...

    Given a Mini 1000 Clubman with a well worn engine and gearbox, if you were
    to replace said parts, would you replace them with...

	a. 1000 engine + box

	b. 998 cooper engine + box

	c. 1275 engine + box

	d. 1300 engine + box

    I'd like a bit more go than the car has at the moment but don't really want
    a highly tuned engine with no go except between 4500 and 4750rpm. :-)

    I'd like more go throughout the rev range and plenty of useful "grunt".
    Yes... yes... I know it's not going to light the tarmac up, but sensible
    suggestions about which engine would be best would be helpful.

    Also... I'm assuming (probably a great deal) that an engine swap with one
    of the above will just be a spanner job ? I know I'll probably need new
    this that and the next thing, but so long as I can buy it and bolt it on
    I don't mind. What I don't want is...

	"Why not go for a turbo where you only have to reshape a few panels"

    Thanks for any advise,

Ross

    
    A friend of mine, long ago, replaced his 850 engine with a 1300 cc
    engine. As you say, it didn't exactly light up the tarmac, but it
    used to suprise a lot of people! This engine had plenty of grunt
    (relatively) compared with the smaller engine.
    
    Mark

    Hmmm... that's what I figured but I was wondering about the pro's and con's
    of the 998/1275/1300 comparison. As that well used saying goes...

	"There ain't no substitute for cubes"

	...so I guess a 1300 would give best low down pull and be relatively
    relaxed about motorway cruising but is that correct ?

    I helped put a 1300 engine with a cooper head into an 850. To say it
    has plenty of grunt maybe a bit of an understatement. I can't remember
    what box it had but we ended up changing it. It handled very nice ,
    cornering at speed was quite nice. The only - point was the exhaust, we
    put a Janspeed system on it. Although it was no tighter than normal
    behind the head it was a bit more difficult to fit than normal. Another
    thing we did was to put the second fuel tank in the boot. If your
    intrested I'll try and find out what box it ended up with.
    
    Garry 

    
    You've got to be a tad careful if you want to replace a small engine
    with the 1300 because with the more powerful engine you've also got to
    uprate the brakes/suspension/insurance/etc..
    
    Personally if I had a 850cc Mini and I wanted to give it some extra go
    then Id go for 1000cc which with certain tuning bits on it should give
    you about 55-65bhp which in a car the size of a Mini will certainly
    give you some go, compared to an 850cc that is.
    
    Plus with the 1000cc you stay in insurance group one (or whatever it's
    changed to now), and you should be OK with the drums that you;ve
    probably got already.
    
    I'm welcome to be shouted down though!!
    
    Matt.  (who's got a 1000cc and mightily happy with it, but I've got
    	    disc brakes so nah!)

    Bearing in mind insurance costs...
    
    1000 cc engine (or perhaps 1100cc)
    Kent 286 Cam
    Janspeed Exhaust with RC40
    Single 1.75" SU carb (HS6) with K&N filter
    
    Should be a relateively cheap, and efficient way to pep things up quite
    a bit. As for motorway cruising in a Mini... Forget it.
    
    Laurie.

    
    Re last couple.
    
    Ross has already got a 1000 cc engine. He wants to up that.
    
    Mark

� To say it has plenty of grunt maybe a bit of an understatement

    Oh goody....  :-)

    As for the exhaust, what's the verdict on various types ?

    I've read about an "RC40" exhaust. What's that when it's at home ?

    Also... what sort of carb(s) would be good with such an engine ?

   (and who is this Vizard chappie anyway ?)

� Ross has already got a 1000 cc engine. He wants to up that.

    No... not neccesarily (sp?).

    I just want a bit of "go" and if I can achieve the same sort of ends with
    the combination that Laurie suggests, I'll look at that as well. How would
    the 1000+kit option compare to a standard 1300 for example ?

    
    I don't know about Minis specifically, but insurance companies are usually 
    happier with a bigger engine than a tweaked engine (odd though that
    might be).
    
    Mark
    
    PS Wouldn't a hotted up 1000 mini be LESS driveable than a 1300?

RE:     <<< Note 427.169 by NEWOA::SAXBY "Is Bart Simpson the anti-Christ?" >>>

�    Ross has already got a 1000 cc engine. He wants to up that.
    
    Not the way I read it....
    
    The answer to the insurance question, is to get a couple of quotes...
    
    I would say that a 1000cc tuned as I suggested would rev more freely,
    and provide faster acceleration than a standard 1300. Top-speed, and
    cruising speed are largely academic on a mini, IMO. Mini engines are
    notoriously "stifled", and simply opening up the gas flow works
    wonders, hence my reference to 1.75" SUs, K&N, Janspeed manifold, and
    a RC40 exhaust. This last, is a type of system with a high
    through-put, but the required back-pressure, and noise limits. I don't
    know the technical details, but they are generally considered the best.
    A Janspeed or Peco system will also improve things dramatically. The
    cam I recommended will improve the power band dramatically, without
    being silly.
    
    It's a question of how much you want to spend. It's almost limitless
    really.... You could certainly easily spend a thousand quid. A perusal
    of CCC or Fast car, will yield lots of info and adverts.
    
    Of my suggestion, the carb comes from an All-Aggro so get a scrapper,
    the cam is about 85 quid; the exhaust around 100 quid; the filter
    about 35 quid. Thinking about it, a Kent 286 cam might be a bit
    vicious, perhaps a 276? Leaving the cam out, fitting the rest should
    provide an increase of 15-20% on your standard BHP. The cam will widen
    the power band.
    
    Laurie.

    
    Yep on re-reading Ross' note you're right. He just wants more go, I
    really meant to point out that _I_ brought the 850 engine into the 
    conversation and that Ross already had a 1000 cc engine.
    
    Still, I'd rather have the bigger engine myself though. :^)
    
    Mark

    If you really want to hot up a 1000cc block , I read in some car
    tweeking magazine some time ago that there is or possible would be a
    head conversion that converted the little chappie to a 16v twin cam.
    
    Expensive but the performance looked good, the tester thought it had
    more poke than a mg metro turbo.
    
    
    Garry

    There is a really good book on this subject. David Vizard ???
    
    I would suggest a 1000cc, 731 cam, 1.5 SU, a bit of porting
    and polishing ...
    
    The previous comments about uprating the rest should be taken
    into account. This is how my Mini, modified as above, bit the
    dust, or more accuratly the keep-left sign and traffic light !!!

    
    Might be worth talking to Avonbar in Addlestone (nr Weybridge).
    They used to specialise in warm to nutter bstard minis and did
    loads of different conversion kits that they would either fit
    for you or let you do yourself.
    
    Richard.
    

    
    For a simple, one day job I'd replace it with 1300, although I'd check
    the crank clearance if using an 850 gearbox, the earlier ones didn't
    have the same internal casting as the 1300 boxes. Just rotate manually
    before baolting it all back together. (alternatives are 1. get 1300 box
    and replace 1300 diff with the one from the 850 or 2. remove 850 gearbox
    internals and grind out sufficient space , I've seen one done this way)
    
    I'm assuming the differential ratios will be different on the 1300 box,
    they always used to be.
    
    PS. From memory to split the engine/gearbox you'll need a decent puller
    to remove the flywheel preferably hydraulic, and stand to one side as
    you wind it up, they can jump 6ft when they come off.
    
    Cams, valves, pistons, carbs can be fun and very rewarding but can
    take quite a while to get setup correctly.
    
    PPS. I have a second tank (LH?) and an unmodified 12G295 head if
    anyone's searching, which I could be persuaded to part with now.
                                                         

    How much for the head?
    
    And what engine did it come from?
    
    Matt.

    Well... the 1000cc engine lunched itself last Friday night. Oil pressure
    dropping all the way home (55 miles) until it ran it's bearings and a
    roller bearing broke up. I replaced the oil on Sunday and there were some
    LARGE peices of metal floating about and when running the sound was of
    some large chunks of metal bashing into each other. It ran but the noises
    were pretty terminal.

    So... after ringing a few places (including Avonbar) I came to a final
    spec. and have entrusted Mini Spares in London to do it. I was planning to
    do it myself, but what with the change in so many parts and my doubting it
    would run afterwards, not having a garage I could use etc.. etc... I 
    decided to "get it done". And besides... the cost of having it done was 
    quite reasonable. The engine however, is somewhat more...

    Here's the spec...

	1300GT Silver Seal Engine
	3.44 Silver Seal Gearbox
	Complete clutch
	Radiator
	HIF6 1�" SU Carb, manifold, air box etc.
	Cooper freeflow exhaust manifold
	RC40 exhaust
	Electronic ignition
	etc...
	etc...
	etc...

    Quite a long list in fact... but when finished, it should pep up the
    performance a bit. We shall see...

    Next is the bodywork and then the brakes.

    I'll let you know what it goes like next Monday

    
    How much was the quote on that lot?
    
    Matt. - (Who really wouldn't mind having it done to his Minge!)

    The whole lot was �1400 (inc. VAT) - but somewhat negotiable

    Maybe that sounds a lot but consider that I had a 'dead' mini and try and
    buy a half decent replacement for �1000.

    Yes... it could have been cheaper, I could have trolled round the breakers
    locating bits here and there and maybe, just maybe it would all have worked
    at the end of the day. This way I KNOW it'll work and I'll have some redress
    if it doesn't.

    Thanks to Lawrie and Mark for the suggestions.

Ross

    
    What's the difference in your insurance with the new engine?
    
    Matt.

    
    Hope you can't tell us too much about how it goes by next Monday. Lot
    of notes for a new lump -- I might be tempted to run it in a little
    first .... (-:

    
    Can you get under-frames for reclining bucket seats for Mini's, 'cos
    I'm going to get a new seat for my little darling soon and I've yet to
    see any mention in magazines of the frames needed to mount them in
    Mini's.
    
    Anyone got any experience with fitting different seats to Min's?
    
    Matt.

    Matt I know a chap who has Recaro's straight out of an Escort RS Turbo
    in the front of his Mini. I don't know what is required, if any in the
    way of frames, but I could ask him. They are very comfy seats, and you
    can usually pick them up out of the classifieds at the back of
    Performance Ford magazine.
    
    Gary.

    Gary,
    
    I'd be most grateful if you'd ask your mate.
    
    I'm only planning on getting one seat though for several reasons:-
    
    o I can't afford to comfy seats.
    o I like to my passengers less comfortable than myself..?!
    o I'm the only one in the car when I drive 170 miles back home and
      that's when I need the seat most, around town the seats I have are
      fine.

    OK Matt I'll do that. If you are going to buy a Recaro from one of
    thoses classified adds you may find that it is difficult to get a
    single one. The owner probably doesn't want to have the hasstle of
    splitting a set.
    
    I'll get back to you. He works here in Belfast in a music shop, so if I
    get the chance I'll phone him, as I am just abou t go go on my lunch
    break now !
    
    Gary.

    
    I was going to get a single Cobra reclining seat, they seem ok, however
    if a good deal came up on a Recaro......
    
    Matt.

    
    
    Matt, 
    for get the seat....just get a bucket, turn it upside down and......:-)
    
    
      Alan...

    Matt used Recaros can be a bit pricey. My friend got his front pair (in
    excellent condition) for 200 quid, which isn't all that bad compared to
    the new cost.
    
    Gary.

    
    In case anyone's interested I've got a bucket seat fitted now, a
    Corbeau GT4.  Very comfy, and it makes the car go quicker as well(?).
    
    I might have to cut an inch of the subframe all round as my head kinda
    touches the ceiling but you can't have everything when your 6ft 2 and
    driving Mini's can you?
    
    Next on the goodie list:-
    
    	o Brake Servo;
    	o Wider shoes;
    and o a 1275cc engine of some description.
    
    Only time will tell,
    
    	...Matt

    
    Does anyone know of a really good Mini garage local to Reading as I've
    got to get an oil leak fixed pretty soon.
    
    Cheers in advance,
    
    	Matt.

Just down the A34 nearer to Basingstoke than Reading

But the Rover garage at Sherfield-on-Loddon  used to work miracles on my mini.

The name is Dodds.

    
    
    Thanks, I'll give them a go.
    
    	Matt

    Any fair personnel should know a lot about fixing bumper cars
    
    Bazza
    

    
    HOWARD don't have a go at Mini's!!  Or I'll take back all those nice
    things I said about your Spitfire.
    
    	Matt.

You'd use a Mini as bumper car?

Take it to a garden centre.

Gordon

�        You'd use a Mini as bumper car?
�
�        Take it to a garden centre.
�
�        Gordon
    
    
    Wot?
    
    
    	...Matt
    

Don't they do lawn mowers at garden centres then?

Gordy

    Yeah, but they have better engines
    
    Bazza
    

    
    Lads save your abuse, I'm immune to people pulling my leg about my car
    so naff off.
    
    	...Matt

    
    What car ????
    
    Chris
    

Don't worry Matt,

they are a nice little car (until one needs to commute long distances)...


just keep in mind all those lovely tiny parking places that all those big fat
cars can't get their bonnet into :-)

    
    That's my view on the subject, my little car is quite fast enough for
    nipping about a bit and it's a whole lot better looking that most
    modern jelly-mould-blob-mobiles.
    
    Plus group one insurance and 65 to the gallon on a run.
    
    Mini's, can't beat 'em really...
    
    	...Matt

    Cant believe the 65 mpg, even on a run !!
    
    Bazza
    

    A run means just like it says Baz. Matt has a hole in the footwell
    whereby he sticks out his legs and runs along in order to preserve fuel
    :-)
    
    GAry.

    
    I define "a run" as bombing down the motorway at 60mph, and yes I do
    manage that sometimes.
    
    Not all of us need/or want massively powerful cars lads.
    
    	...Matt

    
    Bombing at 60 mph? :^)
    
    Mark

Is the "and yes I do manage that sometimes" referring to the 60 mph or 65 mpg.

Chris   _who_thought_you_said_you_weren't_going_to_rise_to_all_this

    
    Lads, Lads, Lads....
    
    There's no need to try and wind me up, as I said earlier I've heard it
    all before.
    
    Have a nice weekend.
    
    	...Matt

    How come you can say that about not wanting a powerful car when 6
    months ago you were spouting on about buying a strenghened mini sub-frame,
    putting a fourteen hundred enginein it, upgrading the brakes etc etc....
    
    Make your mind up Matt, one way or the other !!
                                          
    Bazza

    
    I'd love a faster car Barry but you've got to be fairly happy with what
    you've got havn't you?  Otherwise your always naffed off with your car.
    
    True though, if I had the money I'd invest it in a faster car but I
    ahvn't at the mo and I like my current car alot, even if it is rather
    sedate by modern standards.
    
    Matt.

    That's alright then Matt, I just wondered whether the speed passion was
    still burning inside.
    
    Bazza
    

His speed passion has been satisfied by the the new bucket seat.

Gordy

    
    Yeah Barry I still feel the need for speed but I'm fairly happy with
    what I've got, but that doesn't stop me from thinking - "Oh if I had
    the money I'd get a ..........".
    
    Anyway most of the cars I really like (which arn't Mini's) are either
    too rare or/and much too expensive.
    
    	Matt

    Like ??
    
    Bazza
    

    Hi,
       I only just started reading this notes conference, and this
    mini-note in particular. I suddenly feel very old! 
    
    I used to race a 970 (one of the 400 mentioned earlier) in Special
    Saloon car races in the early '70s. It was VERY fast, I was timed
    through the radar trap at Thruxton at 131mph, and it would leave ALL of
    the then supercars for dead on acceleration (I finished second in a six
    hour race, beating Porsche 911s, Aston Martins the lot, it was very
    satisfying). 
    
    The car was totally modified, weighed little more than a tea tray, and
    ran on (then) the latest Firestone racing rubber - IB19s I think they
    were called.
    
    I haven't seen mention of Richard Longman in these notes (I haven't
    read them that thoroughly tho'). Richard was probably the greatest Mini
    Racer of all time, and for many years did a lot of the development for
    Leyland (after their competition dept closed). He developed the ultra
    short stroked 1380 and then 1440 minis as well as the LCB (Long Centre
    Branch) exhaust manifolds which developed a lot more top end power.
    
    Richard now develops very powerful Pukeot 205 kit, and it seems for
    about 500 quid you can bolt on some massive horsepower!
    
    Before anyone asks, I don't have any bits left, I sold the lot fairly
    recently and was surprised how much it fetched. I now drive a 2CV, and
    revel in the fact that I don't care about speed anymore - I get my
    kicks flying an aircraft I built myself, it's a lot safer really!
    
    Reading through this note makes me realise I may still know a lot about
    making a mini go and handle, so if I can help please ask!
    
    Nigel
    

    
    Hi there,
    
    It's really good to have someone on my side for once!
    
    I've been a Mini fan since I started driving 3 years ago and spend most
    of spare time wondering how I can afford to make my little car go
    faster, you know how it is?
    
    Anyway time for lunch,
    
    	...Matt

� I was timed through the radar trap at Thruxton at 131mph...

    Hmmm... that's quite some gearing. Do you know what the options are with
    regard to raising the gear ratios on a mini gearbox so that, for example,
    you loose the current first gear ratio, second becoming first, and add a
    much higher top gear ?

    131mph, that's pretty damned quick.
    
    I can pull over 6000rpm in 5th in the Frogeye, and even with a 3.8:1
    diff, that's "only" ~120mph. What kind of engine did you have? Mine's a
    short stroke 1400, which will rev up to about 7000RPM.
    
    Ross, I hear tell there's a five-speed mini box on the streets...
    
    Laurie.

    I honestly can't remember the numbers, BUT....my racer had a straight
    cut gear set, driving througha Salisbury LSD, the output ratio was
    lower than the standard 3.9:1, but the revs were the thing, 
    it pulled around 8500 - 9000 rpm in top gear, given a longish run.
    
    If we are talking 'standard' gear sets, you can't do a lot, but I know
    you can get a Jack Knight 5 speed box, but it's around 1200 quid!
    
    Mine was a competition gear set, in a modified 850 casing, with solid
    'Hardy-Spicer' output shafts (the doughnuts wouldn't take the grunt).
    
    The engine produced 100 BHP at the Flywheel (doesn't sound so much
    today does it?). 
    
    The 970S engine was a beautiful thing, it must have made a great little
    road car - I saw one for sale about 4 years ago, must admit to being
    tempted!
    
    NR 
    

    120 in a frog-eye isn't hanging about either! I raced one of those too
    (before the mini), but only in Healey Club events, I doubt mine ever
    got to 110! I replied to your previous note inadvertantly, while
    replying to the 'other' one. The 970S engine had a steel crank, it was
    a purpose built competition engine, the low production numbers were for
    homologation purposes only. If you can find one, you could use it in
    the frogeye, but obviously you would have to get a non-transverse
    crank.
    
    There must be better kit available these days, or has 'A' series engine
    tuning stagnated around the early 80's?
    
    NR

RE:                     <<< Note 427.224 by CURRNT::RAMSAY >>>
�                           -< I like Frog-Eyes too! >-
    
    Look in topic 1262 for details about my Frogeye.

    Briefly, it's a 1400 based on a Marina 1300 block, with fully ported
    head, rim-flo valves, Kent 286 cam etc, etc. It too was purpose built,
    but we decided that as it was for a quick road car, rather than a race
    car, we'd keep it sensible, and trade performance for reliability. Top
    rev range is around 7500. All-in-all, however, it's no ordinary
    Frogeye. The original had a top speed of about 80, and 0-60 of 23
    seconds!! I tried to find a steel crank, and couldn't get anything
    (non-transverse) under a grand, and that was too much.
    
�    There must be better kit available these days, or has 'A' series engine
�    tuning stagnated around the early 80's?
    
    I reckon it has, which is a shame really, because the engine is a
    delight to play with, and dead simple. The only really new thing
    around, is a twin OHC xflow head, running in at around 2500 squid. Not
    an option in my case! However, I'm happy with it the way it is, it's
    more than fast enough for normal road use, especially with the lid off.
    
    Laurie.

� I hear tell there's a five-speed mini box on the streets...
 
    Yes, me too. Unfortunately, I saw the price.

	> �1000 !!   
   

RE:  <<< Note 427.226 by UPROAR::WATSONR "Dunno man... just got here myself !" >>>

�� I hear tell there's a five-speed mini box on the streets...
� 
�    Yes, me too. Unfortunately, I saw the price.
�
�	> �1000 !!   
    
    Rosco, good(ish) news. In this month's Your Classic, I found the
    following (on page 5).
    
    Mini Spares Centre (081-368-6292) now offers a five-speed gearbox kit
    for competent DIY mechanics. Capable of withstanding input torques of
    up to 220blft, it costs �587 exchange.
    
    Mini Sport (0282-78731) also has a five-speeder offering 21mph per
    1000rpm in 5th. Fully built, and ready to fit for �1150 exchange.
    
    This might help a bit.
    
    cheers, Laurie.
   

    

Is the new 5-speed box helical or straight-cut, from what I've read they havn't
managed to make a helical one yet?

Has anyone seen the new Cooper with fuel injection, it's supposed to change the
sound of the engine and reduce power a little I heard?

	...Matt

>>Has anyone seen the new Cooper with fuel injection, it's supposed to change the
>>sound of the engine and reduce power a little I heard?
    
    
    I've not seen one yet either, but as the reason for going to injection
    was the adoption of a catalytic converter I guess any performance
    drop-off would be due to that rather than the injection itself.
    
    
    Stevie.

    I've seen a few about, even had a play with one now that my engine is run
    in. Should have seen the look on his face when I pulled away just as quick
    as he did.  :-)

I've only seen a few of the injection one's so far, they seem to always come in
British Racing Green (Metallic) for some reason.

I don;t like to think about 1275cc Mini's at the moment as on my way home last
night I encountered a very attractive young lady in a 1275GT who took great
pleasure in rubbing in the fact that I've only got a 1000cc engine.

Soundly thrashed is the phrase that sprang to mind.

Oh well,

	...Matt

� Is the new 5-speed box helical or straight-cut, from what I've read they havn't
� managed to make a helical one yet?

    They have now !

    
    Can anyone help me!
    
    		This evening i'm going to have a look at a Mini Mayfair for
    someone.The car appears to be in good condition externally,but can
    anyone suggest things that I should look for while i'm driving or just
    general pointers.
    		The Mini is B reg,with 55,000 miles.
    
    				Any help would be greatfully received.
    			Cheers Andy..The-novice....
    

    Apart from normal checks for rust/brake efficiency/gearbox&final-drive
    noise, and obviously general engine condition, 
    I suggest you drive it (slowly) on full-lock, both ways; listen
    for clicking/knocking CV joints, can be relatively expensive to
    replace. (It's been a long time since I checked a mini over!).
    
    Nigel

It should go like a bat-out-of-hell...(for a mini)   :-)

I've two Mini's and in my very limited experience look for the following things
plus anything else anyone tells you and all the usual things:-

1. Try putting it in reverse and listening for a real big crunch as it goes in, I
have no idea what it means if it does but it's a worn something or other.  As a 
new gearbox is about 400 quid it's best to make sure your getting a good one.

2. Check under the carpet in the boot for water 'n' stuff, this is one of the
big places for a Mini to go.

3. Check for signs of overspray in the engine bay, on the Pipes and the water 
bottle.  Could have had a front end thump.

4. Look down on the grill and see if it is true this really will show up any
front end damage in the past. I can prove this is the front of my Mini looks
very wonky because the previous owner used it as a brake.

5. Look under the carpet in the front for water, this can be a pain to fix if
you try to mend it at a later date because it could be leaking in from anywhere.

6. Make sure the engine sounds "right", ie. loud but not too loud, gearbox makes
the right sort of winey sounds.  

7. Check the clutch out by moving away from stand-still quite quick and listening
for a grggrgggrggggrg sort of sound from the clutch, and the car doesn't move that
quickly forwards.  If you hear it you'll need a new clutch soon (About 40 quid)

8. Check for engine mount wear by driving along and then taking your foot off the
throttle and then putting it on , then off then on.  If you hear a big *DONK* 
every time you do it you've got some worn engine mounts. (Just like mine!)

9. Check all the electric's once again they are a real pain to mend.

10. Look in the oil filler cap for a white gunge, this means that the car either
has a blown head gasket, an leak from the water to oil systems eklewhere, or the
guy who owns it put a lower/higher grade of oil in than it should have, thus 
causing condensation and thus water in the oil.

11. Water temp should be about half way up the gauge, at least it has been on
all the Mini's I've driven.

12. Check for play on the steering column by looking at the wheel with your head
out the window and turning the wheel.  There should be no play at all.

13. Check for oil leaks under the car. ie. start it up, roll it forward a few
feet then engine off, chat to the owner, five mins later, reverse it back a few
feet and check the patch it was parked on.  It may leak a little, but your looking
for a patch rather than one or two spots.

14. Find out if the owner is in any Mini Clubs, if should be in better condition
if he's got some interest in the marque.

15. Can't think of anything else at the mo., so feel free to draw on this or
ignore it, if you can wait I've got a buying guide for Mini's in Miniworld from
a couple of months back and in covers it much better.

Well in general give it good going over and **don't be afraid just to leave it**, 
there are hundreds of Mini's out there and this may or may not be your's.

BTW  Mini are dirt cheap to fix so be prepared to put up with a little misuse
over the years of ownership by other people.  

Good Luck,

	Matt Biggin.   (Extn. 4242.  REO D4/5B)

P.S. In case you've never driven a Mini it should round corner's on rails should 
pull cleanly from about 2700+ revs to about 5000 if your willing to listen to it 
that high, the gear change should be pretty precise apart from 1st to 2nd which 
never seems to be smooth.

    	
    Thanks for all the advice.I'm taking the mini out tonight so i'll check
    the points that you've mentioned.
    
    			Thanks again!
    		Andy..
    

    
    
    I was driving my Mini back home on Monday night and suddenly a bit of
    brake squeel that I've had for ages turned into the biggest grinding
    sound I've ever heard a car make!
    
    Assuming it was the pads worn out I got a new set and last night fitted
    them.  I don't think I've ever seen brake pads as worn as these.  Down
    to the metal totally on one pad!!!!  I glad so say that's all that was
    wrong, because when it went it sounded alot like a failed wheel bearing
    which would have meant the car going to a garage....
    
    Matt-breathing-a-sigh-of-relief-Biggin.

    re -1,
    
    if it was down to the metal it may be worth while replacing the discs
    as well.  The grooves that would have been made by the worn pads will
    only serve to decrease the efficiency of the brakes and wear the pads
    down quicker.
    
    Shaun (Who has also suffered this problem in a Mk3 Escort !)

Re: .239

Don't think Minis have disks....not unless it's a Cooper...

Drums can take a bit of pad metal :-)

    
    Cooper's, 1275GT's, and all Mini's with 12 inch wheels have front disk
    brakes.  Actually the disks they put on modern standard Mini's are the
    same as the one's on the 1275GT, just you don't get a brake servo.
    
    The metal-on-metal contact is only on one disk, on one side and I
    didn't score it deeply because I refused to drive it making that noise.
    
    I'm going to check the pads in a couple of months and if they are
    wearing unevenly I'll change the disks for new one's.
    
    Cheers,
    
    	Matt Biggin.

        A question for the panel.
        
        My son's Mini has a split outer drive shaft boot.
        
        I was wondering if anyone has attempted to replace one of these 
        and can comment on the method for extracting the dive shaft from 
        the diff. unit.
        
        The Haynes Manual has a picture of a special tool for this, but 
        also mentions using some form of level to pull it out. Does any 
        one have a tool I could borrow? Alternatively describe the 
        dimensions of the level?
        
        Any comments gratefully received, either here or by phone on DTN 
        830-3197 or at home 0491 682009.
        
        Regards, Howard.
        
    

Something along the lines of a crowbar always worked for me.

Normally takes one or two blows from a hammer to the lever and then the joint
should spring free. The only damage you have to watch, unless you're REALLY
heavy handed, is to the side of the casing itself.

You will generally need the mini jacked up quite high to get the ground
clearance for a longish lever. (or park over a hole)

M.

    In that case, park anywhere over Basingstoke and you should be OK.
    
    Gary.

    
    
    In case anyone is interested, I had a Volvo owner swipe the back of my
    Mini about a month ago, I had it mended plus a few other things that
    needed doing.  And the insurance company coughed up no problems!
    
    All in all a totally excellant turn-up.....
    
    cheers,
    
    	mattB

    Right well as everyone was thrilled to hear that the rear-end damage to
    "my little baby" was mended a while back, I shall give you the latest
    instalment......

    Some git in a VW Golf Driver swiped the side of my car, in a car park
    in Henley at the weekend, luckily the man had a conscience and left his
    phone number.  He dented the door, the front/driver side wing, the seam
    is all bashed in and some of the main body monocoque panel is kinda messed
    up.  Oh and he swiped off a wheel arch as well.

    On recent estimates this should add up to almost 650+ squids to mend
    so I hope his insurance company don't play silly buggers.

    Ho hum, the trials and tribulations and owning a car I suppose.

    Cheers,

    	MattB

    Sorry to hear that Matt.  Still you are lucky that the bloke is a
    decent sort and left his number, even though he can't drive.
    
    Gary.

                  
    Insurance companies and car parks don't go together. Last time I heard
    about this kind of situation, admittedly 15+ years ago, the insurance
    company wasn't liable for incidents on private ground. Such as car parks.

    It may be that you will soon find out how decent the chap is if it has to
    come out of his pocket.

    Chris

    I;ve go his address and his car reg. number so if I can't seem to get
    the repair mended a swift trip to London with a few of the lads in the
    car should do the trick!!
    
    		;^)
    
    I was lucky last time I had an accident, I don't know what kind of
    result I'll get this time.
    
    I live in hope,
    
    	MattB

	My Montego was rear-ended whilst prked in a car park.

	I stated this on the insurance claim form (my own, no-one left their
	number) and I had no hastle with this part of the claim.

	Heather
	(The hastle I had when the keys were stolen is written here somewhere)

    
    I'm hoping that as the guy admitted it was his fault then the insurance
    claim should be straight forward.
    
    MattB

    �   I'm hoping that as the guy admitted it was his fault then the insurance
    � 	claim should be straight forward.
    
    	That might just complicate things horribly!  Every insurance policy
    	I've ever had has explicity said that the person covered must *NOT*
    	admit liability.
    
    	Ian.

    
    �I'm hoping that as the guy admitted it was his fault then the insurance
    �claim should be straight forward.
    
    Not worth a jot. It'll probably work out ok, but be prepared to
    fight!!!!
    
    I had a case once where a woman drove into my car, apologised and got
    her husband to offer to pay for the damage. Obviously, she neglected to
    mention how much damage she'd done to my car and her husband almost
    passed out when I told him! I then had months of acrimonious dispute
    with her insurers and still ended up only recouping 75% of my excess
    and losing my NCB...
    
    Mark
    
    PS I have also had a case where I just sent in the claim form and got 
    a cheque by return of post, with no ill-effect to my NCB.

    
    I shall wait and see, I've got to get a quote or two for the repair and
    send in the claim form to my insurance legal dept., they said they'd
    sort things out.
    
    Cheers,
    
    	MattB

    Anyone know if it's possible to replace the main/big-end bearing shells
    on a mini (1300cc) without removing the engine from the car ?

Ross (who ran a bearing last night... again)  :-(

Re: .255

I shouldn't try it, because you will just waste time and end up dropping the 
engine out anyway, and it's a lot easier with space around the engine...

    Besides, you don't drop the engine, you lift the car.... 8*)
    
    Richard

    ...and unless you can work through the sump plug hole,
    I don't see how you can mamage it anyway. After all
    the gearbox is in the sump...

    Hi.
    
    My son has been restoring a 1975 Mini Innocent for a year now. 
    
    We now require to locate an original Innocenti ignition/steering lock 
    assembly.
    
    Rover and Mini Spares haven't got a clue where I could get one from. 
    However I was wondering if anyone would be willing to assist in the 
    location of such a part from a French/Italian scrap yard.
    
    The assembly is easily removed from the steering column complete with 
    the cables and connector.
    
    If you could assist we'd be very grateful. I'm sure a few beers could 
    be offered to cover your trouble.
    
    Below I've included details for my location and telephone numbers.
    
    Living in Hope,
    
    Howard Easton.
    DIGITAL Equipment Co. Ltd. 
    1000 First Avenue,
    Newbury Business Park,
    Newbury. 
    RG13 2PZ
    Berkshire.
    
    DTN:      (-774) 6355
    Tel:      - 44 635 526355
    Fax:      - 44 635 526240
    Telex:    94012247=DIGI G
    X.400:    C=GB/ADMD=GOLD 400/PRMD=DIGITAL/PN=Howard Easton/
              O=DIGITAL/OU=REO         
    Internet: [email protected]  
    
    

I have recently aquired a 1978 Mini 1275GT, and there are a few problems I need
sorting out with it.  I have little idea when it comes to cars - trying to learn
though!

Currently, it has a problem starting.  Turn the ignition, and the engine turns
once or twice, then dies, without catching.

It won't go above 75mph, and the power is down aswell.  I've heard this could be
the vacuum plate, but what else could it be?

Occasionally, the revs drop VERY low (500rpm or less) when I come to a junction.
This happens if the engine is very hot (just below the red) - is this normal.



This is my second Mini, but the other one was taken from me too soon, when
someone wrote it off for me!  I didn't get enough time to learn about the many
intricacies of Mini's.

All help appreciated.

Mark

    It sounds very much like distributor related problems.  Poor starting
    and overheating.  Dropping in revs could be related as well due to
    manifold vacuum leak.  Suspect the vacuum advance on the distributor. 
    Check the vacuum advance pipe is connected properly.  If it is, trying
    taking it off the carburettor and sucking on it.  You shouldn't be able
    to suck for long without going a funny colour.  If you're able to
    continually suck air through, there's either a split in the pipe or the
    vacuum advance chamber is bust.  You can get them from Lucas (or Rover)
    for about �15.
    
    Also, take the distributor cap off when you suck on the pipe and see if
    the backplate moves. 
    
    It's usually worth changing the centrifugal advance springs as well if
    you replace the vacuum chamber.
    
    Course, it could be the carburettor...
    
    Ian
    

Cheers, I'll give it a go, though I might be able to con the guy who tuned it
recently into fixing it for nothing!

Mark

    I agree with .261
    
    Check the vacuum circuit isn't blocked or leaking.
    
    Laurie.

Yup - vacuum advance was jammed.  A cunningly placed washer soon fixed that.

I discovered that my 1275GT has something similar to an 850s gear cogs, for
rapid acceleration - this results in a top speed around 85mph.  I suspect that
my rather large wheels may bump this up to 90, but it's still a tad slow.

Anybody have any idea of the cost of replacing them with 1275 spec cogs?

Also, does anyone know the phone number for Mini Spares?




Mark

    
    Top speed of 85 - 90 sounds reasonable for a 1275GT.
    
    The gears in question would be the final drive, which as I remember
    aren't in the gearbox at all, but behind the clutch housing.  There was
    a wide variety of different ratios on different
    Minis/Metros/Allegros/1300's/name any Leyland car etc.  They're quite
    pricey new, you'd be better of getting a set from a scrap yard.
    
    I've got Mini Sport's number (0202 778731) but not Mini Spares.
    
    Ian
    

As an aside, if you want truly blistering performance from your mini, you can fit a
1400 Turbo version of the A series. There used to be a firm in Addlestone, Surrey
called Avonbar (? memory is going) who did all sorts of bizarre things to the trusty
old A series. They did some strange things to the O and S series as well.

Clive

    My B reg bog standard Mayfair used to get up to 85mph, but took a
    while to get there, it was one of the first 12in wheel models and the
    gear box had longer legs than my (then) girlfriend's P reg 1000.
    
    Andy

    Can anyone suggest a secure petrol filler cap for a mini? One that
    can't be opened by hammering a screwdriver into it & turning.
    
    Andy (who is down a tank full of petrol!)

    
    It's all a waste of time because you can just disconnect the pipe at
    the bottom of the tank and fill any convenient container,
    
    well you could on my 1970 model anyway,
    
    Ian ( who lost more than a tank full in his day !)

    Oh bum
    
    Andy

    Right then, I've got the little Min back on the road and a few things
    could be wrong.
    
    When accelerating and the engine is cold(ish) theres a sort of knocking
    sound from the engine in time with the speed of the engine. (Its pinking
    slightly as well but that's because it was tuned just before I got it &
    all the books say to set the strobo. timing to 7-8 deg. BTDC and this
    engine always ran better at 5 deg.) But this knocking sounds a bit
    ominous, any ideas?
    
    Changing from 3rd to 2nd when the engine is doing anything but idling
    revs. produces a noise not unlike trying to change gear without using
    the clutch. 1st to 2nd is OK, as is 3rd to 1st. Blipping the throttle 
    doesn't help, nor does double declutching. Its probably livable with 
    if it involves a gear box dismantle, but I live at the top of hill & 
    unless I can make a quick drop from 3rd to 2nd I have to virtually 
    start off again in 1st. This same noise is sometimes apparent going up 
    into 4th but it feels more like a snatch (not half as bad).
    
    It also appears to be losing oil from the dipstick, is it just over
    full?
    
    Andy

    When running at a steady speed in 4th, can you make the noise come and
    go by gently pressing and lifting the throttle slightly? Is the noise a
    rumble rather than a rattle, or a definite knock? 
    
    Laurie.

    I'll try the 4th gear thing. I wouldn't describe the noise as a rumble,
    it rather puts me in mind of say (I know its not this) a piston hitting
    the top of the cylinder every time it goes up. I was checking out Haynes,
    and it sort of fitted the description of 'piston slap' they said. What
    is this exactly?
    
    As to the gear crunch, Haynes was talking about gearbox problems and
    whether it was worth fixing them etc. and said that if it was a fault
    like 'beating synchromesh with a fast gear change' the gearbox could
    still have many thousands of miles left. Bingo! I thought. Slowing down
    the change eliminates the problem so perhaps I'll leave that one be.
    
    Andy

    Is when the rings get a little worn and/or the gudgeon pin too, and the
    skirt of the piston hits the side of the cylinder.

    ...and does it go knock, rumble, bang or rattle.
    
    The Min has 110,000 on the clock with out any major engine over hauling.
    
    Andy
    
    PS Sorry it has 10,000 on the clock, the carry 1 dropped off the end
    due the the 5 digit display.

    I would vote for the piston slap theory.  Spridgets and Mini's were
    prone to that.  I bought a new set of pistons with rings and (we yanks
    call 'em) 'wrist pins'.  It was a fairly easy job on the older cars.
    
    Bob
    

    I tried the top gear acceleration, but didn't hear the noise I heard
    before, lots of pinking tho'. In fact, I can't reproduce it at all 
    now. Puzzling.
    
    Now, anyone know where all the radiator water is going? :-)
    
    Andy

    
    Anyone going to the Mini 35th birthday event at Silverstone, August 
    Bank Holiday? Looks as if it will be a good do, pity the cavalcade is
    to be limited to 1000 cars tho'. I'm still wondering whether mine 
    will make it or not. (And unless the weather is cool enough to let it 
    run at normal temperature *without* the heater on hot and the fan on, 
    I'm wondering whether I can make it :-)
    
    Andy

    Interesting point on my A-series....
    
    At idle, depressing the clutch pedal used to noticeably change the
    speed of the engine (ie. lower it). Very worrying.
    
    2000 miles later (the engine was new) the clutch release bearing eats
    itself. Having replaced it, the problem has dissappeared.
    
    Does this indicate that my old clutch release bearing was totally
    knackered? I hope so!
    
    The clutch was/is a turbo item, non-verto.
    
    Dan

    
    
    I have been searching for Mini Conference's but I only see small topics
    on the wonderful cars.
    
    Does anyone know where I can Get cheap insurance on my Mini...  It will
    hardly be driven so <5000 miles I can Do..??
    
    Thanks 
    
    
    G@H
    

    If your mini is old enough you can try getting a classic car policy,
    which normally has options for limited mileage (as far as I know, only
    classic cars and specials (kits, etc) enjoy this limited mileage
    policy.... it is hard to come by on any new car).
    
    Adrian S. Flux may be able to help you. I only have their kit car dept
    number lying around, but I'm sure if you phone them they can put you
    through to an appropriate department. It's 0553 691266.
    
    It might be worth trying them even if you're mini isn't that old.

    Grant Dearest,
    
    It may be better to buy a classic car in the first place.....
    
    Andy..B 
    
    

    
    I own a 1971 Austin Mini,  Hi-lo's, Modi Exhaust, 12" Minilites, 
    
    I also have LCB, twin SU's but havn't fitted them as yet.
    
    Now it's only a 1000cc but I'm debating whether to sell or not..???
    
    Perfect for a Metro 1.4 engine..  Will it fit..??
    
    Thanks 
    
    
    G@H
    

    
    
    Andy, 
    
    There's nothing like having a project to work on and see the end
    result..
    
    Some of us arn't in your position....
    
    A Fake Rolex wearing, Range Rover Madonna Vogue driver, who made his
    millions thought delegation to the PCBU Support team..!!!!
    
    
    Thanks 
    
    
    G@H 

    Metro 1.4... if you mean K-series, it IS possible to fit one but it's a
    LOT of work! Plus, the mini I saw had a GTi engine fitted and for some
    strange reason was pig slow. So I wouldn't bother.
    
    If you want a Metro 1.4, then take an A-series out to 1380 or 1399,
    balance it all, slap on a race head, 1 3/4" SU and all the trimmings,
    and watch those hot hatch bots disappear into the horizon ;-) !!!
    
    Keep in touch, we'll natter about minis all day!
    
    Dan
    
    P.S. You're LCB and twin SU's will do the car a favour. What exhaust
    was you going to put on with the LCB ?

    No't forget a decent cam, say a Kent 286.
    
    Laurie$1380_A_Series_Frogeye.

    I prefer my 276 with high ratio rockers.... makes it that little bit
    more road-friendly.
    
    But yeh, don't forget a decent cam... what about a scattercam +
    rollers?! Waaaaaheeeeeyyyy!

    
    Well.......
    
    My father works for an exhaust company so he's currently building a
    stainless for me, Single box jobbie, centre upswept.
    
    My thoughts are whether to sell it or not, it has been dry stored for 4
    years and I have been working on it for 1 year.  It's going in for it's
    MOT on monday and anything that needs doing they will do....
    
    Once it's passed then I can Modify it or sell it....  It's perfect for
    Modi's and cos of the year (1971) it's faily rare..!!!
    
    Anyone want a Mini..????
    
    
    G@H
    
    

    Why sell it?! Mod it!! Waaheyy........

    
    Well, Im running out of intrest in the old beast......  If someone
    offers me the right money I'll take it if not I'll Modi it...!!!
    
    If anyone wants the full spec leave a note...!!!
    
    Oh...  I'm sure I can put 165x60x12 on my Cooper Minilites one garage
    said I couldn't but Miniwolrd say I can....????
    
    G@H
    

    What size wheels are they?
    
    Was it the width or the height that was supposed to be the problem.
    165/60 sounds about right to me. Certainly they shouldn't be too wide
    for your arches, wheel width should be around 5". I would say those
    tyres should be fine. Do they rub on full bump ? Have you lowered the
    beast, in which case they might pose problems.
    
    Dan

    
    
    Well Im running Hi-Lo's rear at the mo but haven't got round to doing
    the front yet....  But yes they are 5" alloys....!!!
    
    Clearance at the rear is fine but I'll have to get round to doing the
    front... It should be okay...!!!!!
    
    Thanks
    
    
    G@H
    

yeh - my old 1275GT had 155x70x12s on, and the clearance at the front was
minimal....especially with the arches on to ensure that over 1 inch didn't stick
out from the wing...

Mark

    I didn't know you're an ex-mini owner, Mark?! You didn't sell it to
    anyone in Portsmouth, did you? Was it white?....

Spooky (nearly)...

	It was indeed (off) white, but I flogged it to someone in Newbury
	Got 525 for it.  Not bad for a T reg...

	Also had a brown V reg 1000cc aswell (my first car infact) but some
	swine hit it whilst it was parked outside my girlfriends...saw 'em
	do it aswell.  Got that one patched up and sold it (in case the chassis
	was twisted)...

	Probs get another when I graduate, so I can go for interviews etc
	then go for a Cavalier SRi, or some other pokey sort of thing ;-)

Mark$Mini_freak_it_would_appear

    Yeh, seriosuly off-white in patched all over the car?!
    
    Did it have a wooden dash fitted?
    
    I've seen a mini just like this down in Pompey, it belong to a student,
    he's a member of our Mini club down there (Loony Uni Mini Club). We
    have great fun every tuesday night!

    
    
    Does anybody want one so they can join this note...???
    
    Offers in the region of ......�350.00
    
    Thanks 
    
    
    G@H
    
    

Off white as in just Leyland white paint, faded over 16 years, with non-faded
Leyland white on the wings/front sill where i'd removed the rust.  Never got
around to t-cutting the rest.


Nope - plain old triple-instrument offset dash and ludicrously small steering
wheel 8-)

And a super-loud stereo aswell!!

    Super-loud stereos? Now we're onto a topic I enjoy.... go on!

Oh, the usual 50W stereo connected to unfeasibly large 100W speakers on the
"parcel shelf" so that no-one can ride in the back without industrial strength
earplugs.

    Aaah. Yeah, they accomodate some lovely sized speakers, mini parcel
    shelves, don't they?! And what fun it is cutting through the steel so
    you can get the blighters in (please don't tell me you had shelf
    speakers!).
    
    Dan

cutting through the steel, the "sound proofing" and nearly the extra large fuel
tank aswell!!!

Would have had shelf speakers in the rubbish-pods by the rear seats, but the
holes weren't quite big enough. and I didn't have the means to enlarge them!!!

M

    Hmmm, you don't wanna do that! Them petrol tanks don't take to holes
    very well..... ;-]
    
    Dan

    Grant
    
    Drop me a note with the full spec - I might be tempted into a winter
    project (mail to John T Gray @REO)
    
    Tks John

    
    
    John, 
    
    
    Sent this morning to you...!!!
    
    
    G@H
    

    
    Re. .280
    
    >Does anyone know where I can Get cheap insurance on my Mini...  It will
    >hardly be driven so <5000 miles I can Do..??
    
    If you haven't sold it yet...
    
    Being a 1971 model you should be able to get 'Classic' insurance with a
    limited mileage agreement - you can always disconnect the speedo cable
    if you are going to go over the agreed mileage ;-) - but I'm not sure
    that the underwriters will like the mod's.
    
    I'm insured through Lancaster (with a 6000 mile limit) their 'phone number
    is 0480 484848.
    
    
    Steve.
    
    PS is there a 'Classic Car' topic in here somewhere? As an occasional
    reader I can't be bothered to go hunting...
    

>    PS is there a 'Classic Car' topic in here somewhere? As an occasional
>    reader I can't be bothered to go hunting...
    
you could look at the following topics...

   234  VESUVE::WHEELWRIGHT  15-JUL-1988    40  MGB - a classic, or just an all`
   313  STOPIT::SAXBY        16-SEP-1988    56  OPEL MANTA - Future Classic ?
  1020  AYOU33::RICHARD      12-APR-1990    10  Non classic cars as investment?
  1548   VOGON::MORGAN       12-SEP-1991    15  Classic Car
  1682   NEWOA::SAXBY         3-FEB-1992    15  Classic Car Insurance.
  1875   NEWOA::SAXBY        27-AUG-1992     4  Classic Parts?

Chris.

re.307:

Chris, rather than to provide the answer to the lazy person, it would be far
better to tell them how to do it themselves. Anyway, if they truly can't be
bothered then they are not interested in the answer,.

Dave.

    Out of interest, anybody out there wanting 4 5.5"x13 KN Minator
    (Minilite-replica) alloy wheels?
    
    I fancy getting some RFX's or Rimtech's, but won't bother unless I can
    find somebody who'll buy my old ones.
    
    Dan

    
    Re. .307
    
    Thanks Chris.
    
    Re. .308
    Wrong, I am interested, but not fully conversant with search
    facilities.
    Right, I am extremely lazy! :-)
    
    Steve.

    Come on, somebody must want these wheels.....! They're not that bad,
    honestly!

    I don't want 'em Dan, but I can vouch for your honesty...
    
    ...This is a legit sale for legit reasons and these wheels are rather
    sexy!
    
    BARGAINS GALORE!
    
    Trev.

    They'd look nice on your Metro, Trev {:-|

    Yeah right! A bog-Standard Metro City with Alloys!!!
    
    Hmmmmm.....

    Perhaps you should specify your price...
    
    Laurie$already_has_some.

    Umm... I guess something like �130 will secure them ...
    
    ???

    Can someone list the name and phone no. of a Mini Cooper distributor.
    (preferably Kent/E.London area).
    
    I'm trying to find this out for a friend who needs to find out the
    price and availability of a new exhaust system.
    
    Thanks
    
    Royston

    Name : MiniSpares
    Tel  : Find it out for tomorrow, unless you can look it up.
    
    Do you want a standard exhaust? Any old quickfit will supply one for a
    measly amount. A nice meaty one? We're talking dosh now.... ;-)

The MiniSpares number is in this conference at least once if you fancy browsing
through

Mark

    �MiniSpares number is in this conference at least once if you fancy
    �browsing
    
    Thanks guys but a pointer would be a great help.
    
    Royston
    

    Minispares: 081 368 6292
           Fax: 081 361 4398
    
    I order through Colin, who looks after the international market and is
    very helpfull. They have great catalogues and ship quickly.
    
    Paul

    Thanks Paul. I've passed on the info.
    
    Royston

    Urgent help required (ie. TODAY!)
    =================================
    
    Is there a significant height difference betweem Metro Thermostat
    housings and Mini ones?
    
    Basically, here's the problem :-
    
    I've just bought a MiniSpares Ultimate Engine Steady and a left & right
    hand gearbox engine steady (although the stupid &r$eholes sent me two
    right-hander's....). The engine steady fits over the thermostat and the
    left-hand exhaust manifold stud.
    
    Unfortunately it sits too high to go over the stud. I think I have a
    metro thermostat housing, so question is..... do I need to get a mini
    one? Are they different or will I be wasting my money? Is the different
    visible or not?
    
    Any help received soon greatly appreciated! Cheers,
    
    Dan

    Okay sorted.... mini one is different. A lot shorter.

    Yeah but what was it you were saying about the Metro one having more
    connections on it? Is it going to work???? ;-)

    
    
    Hey....
    
    what happened to all the Mini Owners out there ...!!
    
    My Mini is now back on the road after 5 years....
    
    and it goes really well....
    
    
    G@H
    

    What's happened to it in 5 years then?
    
    Dan$interested

    
    Well, 
    
    Iv'e had it for 1 year, replaced Engine, Gearbox, Subframe, Interior,
    Installed Hi-Lo's Tweeked & Polished.
    
    Before that it sat in a garage for 4 years not running....
    
    It's a 1971 Morris Mini..  White.
    
    I'm in current talks for a Metro 1300 engine, gearbox, vented disks and
    an uprated carbs, cam and exhaust from my fabricated 2.5" single box,
    centre exit loud mutha.
    
    
    G@H
    

    Excellent!
    
    Make sure you get a 3.44 diff (or 3.1 if you're an economy freak). The
    1275 engine will probably take well to a 1.75" SU if it doesn't already
    have one, along with an MG metro or (even better) Torquemaster inlet
    manifold. As for the cam, maybe a 266 Megadyne or a 276 is you really
    fancy a stretch, but in a 1275 anything above that will be getting a
    bit daft. Free flow air filter & exhaust are obligatory, of course!
    
    You know about putting metro vented discs on a mini, I presume?
    
    Sounds good. It's not that white one here at DECpark with an incredibly
    sad Max Power sticker & bubbled tinted windows, is it ?!

    Does the silence mean it IS that "Max Power" mini?
    
    <titter, titter>

    all 998cc's of it :-)

    Yeah, but it goes faster with a "Max Power" sticker on the back and
    tinted (cough) windows.
    
    Come on, will the owner please step forward and admit to owning it?
    
    Or we'll have to sit outside and wait for you to leave.

    
    
    Yeh..Yeh Okay... It's mine.....!!!
    
    But what have you all got Mini City's with a subscription to Mini
    World.
    
    G@H
    

    
    
    Ah... Forgot to mention Newish Mini City's..!!!!
    
    
    G@H
    
    

    Getting close.
    
    I've got a Metro City (stop laughing) until I can afford something
    different.
    
    And Dan? Well, he's got a mini
    
    kind of...

    
    Well, Well... 
    
    There is nothing wrong with Metro's, I own the Cherry Metro Advantage
    in the DECpark Car Park.... Plus the workhorse of a Mini..
    
    What's Dan " The Man's " Mini like...???
    
    
    GaH
    

    Red. I think that sums it up. I'll get him to tell you the details.

    Oh you own that Metro Advantage that always parks near us!
    
    Dan$small world isn't it

    
    Well, from this conf the spec seems something like
    
    Red Mini xxx cc, with Mini Spares Engine Steady, and an attempted K&N
    Air Filter Bolt on....!!!!
    
    Come on Dan tell us the full spec.... or is your spec that
    shameless...!!!
    
    
    
    GaH
    

    OOoooo you're asking for a full spec?! How can I resist........

    P.S. It's a mini in disguise.
    
    have none of you seen it in DecPark then?

    
    
    Stop the C$#p....  Put your spec where your mouth is...!!!!
    
    
    GaH
    

    He can't, he'd put you to shame. You must've seen the "mini" in the car
    park seeing as you've parked near it on several occasions.

    Okay.... it'll take a while to type tho'. Hold on :-

    
    
    It can't be that "great" because I would have noticed it....!!!!
    
    It's a shame that some people can try and slag off other's when they
    havn't got the Gonads to compare notes...
    
    In My Book a Mini owner is a Mini owner and thats it....  Everyone has
    their own tastes....  What a Shame you don't have the same view .. I
    feel Sorry for you..!!!
    
    
    GaH
    

    The one thing yours is has that Dans hasn't is a Max Power sticker.
    
    I wonder if my car would go faster if I had one?!?

    Where are you in DecPark, I want to see your face when you read Dans
    spec.
    
    HEH HEH

    Avonbar 1380cc A+
    Omega 73.5mm pistons
    Lightened, balanced con-rods, crank (+tuftrided), flywheel & clutch
    Avonbar Stage III race head, 37.6x29 race valves,guides & db/springs
    Kent Megadyne 276 cam
    Titan 1.5:1 roller rockers
    Modified MG Metro inlet
    Janspeed LCB + RC40 single box
    Modified 1.75" SU, needled & jetted to suit
    Aldon Ignitor electronic ignition
    3.44:1 diff, standard gearbox (yikes thats gonna last long)
    Turbo clutch
    Obligatory K&N, stub stack
    HC oil pump, 11-row oil cooler & thermostat
    Ultimate engine steady (still needs another one)
    
    Metro discs & 4-pot calipers at front
    Mini drums at rear
    Servo assisted
    KN Minator 5.5x13" rims
    Toyo 185/60 HR13 tyres
    Gas Spax adjustables
    GTM HiLo's
    
    Central locking, Foxguard alarm, hard & soft top
    Alpine 7514L stereo, 2 subs, 2 mids, 2 tweeters, amps, CD, x-overs, etc
    Metro GTi seats
    NO tinted windows
    NO stickers ;-)
    Metro radiator + fan
    Mountney s/wheel, alloy gearknob, extra few dials,
    
    Revs --> 7000rpm, 98BHp @ flywheel (70 @ wheels)
    
    <yawn> Phew, there you go, happy now? Wanna race ;-) ?!

    Sorry did I forget to mention the body :-)
    
    
    It's a kit, mate. Mini parts in a different body. GTM Rossa, that's
    what it is. Sorry for misguiding you.

    HAR HAR HAR 
    
    You've just put his fireworks out Dan!

    
    
    Hummmmmm,  Where are you parked.... I'll have a look...
    
    Well for someone how didn't know how to bolt on a K&N Filter it's a
    good spec.. Very good spec..  It must have cost a bit....
    
    What is the shell then (year/model etc)
    
    Baring in mind that I have just got mine running... so give me time
    with the old convertions and we'll see......
    
    G@H
    
    
    PS Too good to be true.... I can read Mini World as well..!!!!
    
    

    I can't believe you haven't noticed it before.
    
    It's the short dumpy Red bath tub that occasionally sits out in the
    rain (not today unfortunately).

    
    Ahhhhhhh
    
    I have seen it....  so explain... why slag of mini's when you don't own
    one..!!!!
    
    Nice car, nice spec... but doesn't turn me on..!!!
    
    The only thing that does is the engine spec...  As i Say give me
    time..!!!
    
    
    
    GaH
    

    Only jokin' 'bout the dumpy bit Dan ;-)

    It's not here, I'm afraid, I rarely drive in.... I get a lift with old
    Trevor Allen y'see.
    
    I don't know where you read that I didn't know how to put a K&N on ?!?!
    
    It's 1991 vintage, fibreglass body ... looks nothing like a mini. Low,
    two seater, red, removeable roof (or softtop), mid engined. Front looks
    kinda like a 911 (supposedly) and rear looks vaguely like one of those
    rare 2-seater BMW Z1's (supposedly) .... it's weird anyway :-)
    
    See y'around some time then!

    Hey, let's get one thing clear:
    
    I don't slag off mini's, I slag off :
    
    o Max Power stickers
    
    o Tinted windows 

    Whooaaa hey! I'm not slagging of mini's I love em! I owe my car to the
    little blighters!
    
    
    I was slagging off Max Power stickers

    
    Okay....
    
    The Sticker is a bit overstated for a current 998cc.... but horse's for
    course's...  You might not like it... tough!!  I think the Mag's pretty
    good not as good as Mini World...  
    
    All im saying is that I am working on something I like and enjoy and
    you the same...  I think it's just sad of some peoples view's...
    
    GaH
    
    

    Rightyho. That's sorted then.
    
    Yeah the good thing about all mini's is there amazing ability to whip
    round corners at unusual speeds.... in fact, performance wise, I'd
    reckon it's there biggest asset.... forget the power, it's nice if you
    have it, but I've seen bog standard 998/1275's run rings round a lot
    more modern, powerful, bigger 'wanna-be's .... I'm sure you'll agree,
    long live the Min!
    
    Unfortunately we all know it's dieing in a few years time.
    
    Sorry if I sounded a bit critical, I was only winding you up ;-]
    
    Cheers,
    	Dan

    
    
    Yeah well, 
    
    During the past year it's been the case of... right that bit's finished
    and I find something else wrong...  All this work 3 MOT Fails and
    unknown amounts of cash it's on the road...  now the fun begins...!!!
    
    Even though it's a 998 cc it goes okay but I do want more power..  it
    handles okay but I want more..  I have the base now I need to finish
    it..!!
    
    For 23 years old it's in a pretty good state....  My age stops me going
    for too much power due to insurance...  but by me putting in a 1275
    Metro engine/box (Approx 75 BHP - standard) in and all the widgets and
    gadgets it will only increase my insurance by �55.00.
    
    All work and no play..!!!
    
    
    GaH..
    

    Agreed. Yeah, try and get hold of the MG engine. I now loads of guys in
    the mini club I'm a member of (down in Portsmouth) who've put metro
    engines in. The A+ is a lot more reliable, refined and pokey too!
    
    You've done a nice job of it, matey.... and the exhaust particularly
    horny :-) !!

    
    Hummm  the exhaust is a bit too load for my liking ... but it's reduced
    a lot of back pressure but it wakes the neigbourhood up..!!
    
    GaH
    

    hahaha! Excellent .... yeah I don't think I'm too popular with the
    neighbours either. Because there's so little room at the rear end you
    can only fit in the rear RC40 silencer box .... I haven't been told off
    by El Plod yet, though. If I could make it a bit quieter I would, but
    it really is about as quite as I can get it at the moment without
    sacrificing power and putting a standard 1 litre mini silencer in it
    (and that would _not_ do!).

All right then Grant, what is all this  "I'm A Love Albatros..!!!" bit about?

What is A Love Albatros anyway?  Not only that, does your lovely lady know about
this?

Sorry about the Rathole!

				Malcolm.

    
    Ahhhh Malc.. 
    
    I thought you had departed this sinking ship... Iv'e not seen your
    around...???  How the devil are you..??
    
    As for the "Love Albatros" bit it's from bottom, with Rik Mayle and Ade
    Edmundson..
    
    And yes my fine, young, firm, Loverly lady does know about it..!!
    
    Nice to hear ya again..
    
    GaH
    

    
    Does anyone have a wooden dash with centre speedo that I can use as a
    template as I don't like the layout on the made ones.
    
    GaH
    

    
    
    Perhaps another good idea would be for people to list their Mini/Metro
    and alike spares here.  I certainly always look out for spares etc..!!
    
    
    GaH
    

    I've got some metro front hubs c/w bearings and ball joints, new.
    
    �30 the lot if you want 'em.

    Plus a coil, dizzy cap, leads, etc.... but I think I might keep them
    just in case!
    
    Verto clutch release arm?
    LCB manifold (cut up a bit, mind)
    Braided oil cooler pipe (2 lengths, for mini)
    
    etc etc!

    
    
    What type of LCB..??? 3-2-1 or 3-1..??
    
    Inlet mani to go with..??  
    
    GaH
    

    Hmmm.... there's only one LCB so I thought (it's not a 3-1).
    
    It's missing a T-piece though (but I think you can get these
    separately).

    All right then panel, how about this one.
    
    What is it when then hazard warner switch makes the clicker click,
    disables the indicators as it should but doesn't actually flash the
    lights?
    
    I've replaced the indicator clicker (behind the speedo podule) and the
    hazard clicker (in the engine compartment on the bulkhead) with
    correctly rated units. I've replaced the dashboard switch with a
    genuine Rover switch (�15! 15 bloody � !!).
    
    In the dark theres's a feint glow from the indicator dashboard lights
    and under normal use the indicators (all bulbs involved) work fine.
    What do I check next?
    
    The car is an April '85 Mayfair. 
    
    Puzzled,
    
    Andy
    
    PS Talking of spares, anyone have a butterfly valve for the fresh air
    ball vent, mine's broke & permanently open (and its starting to get a
    bit cold even with the heater on). Again, a new Rover item would 
    buying half the fresh air system as a unit, and would incurr a second
    mortgage.

    Could be that one or both of the items you replaced could be defective.
    
    Could be that there's a wiring fault that is earthing the supply out
    before it gets to the light units -- but one must ask why isn't that
    affecting the normal function of the turn indicators?

    Actually strange you should mention that, the indicators packed up day
    before yesterday :-)
    
    I moved the hazard clicker to the indicator clicker & the indicators
    started working again (albeit a little hesitant -
    CLICK...click......CLICKclickCLICKclick.......CLICK..click...), so I
    reckon the indicator clicker is faulty.
    
    Although the two clickers are in different shaped boxes (one's round,
    the other square), they are marked the same rating (something like 
    2X5W 12V), is this right? I would have thought the hazard one would 
    have been more W's cos its driving more bulbs. This might also explain
    the very low levels of light from the bulbs when in hazard mode.
    
    Andy

    Ahem (sorry for being pedantic)
    
    clicker = relay
    
    ;-]
    
    sorry, couldn't resist it!

    ... not quite. The last one I took apart was a rigid contact arm
    reaching out over a pre-formed bi-metal plate which was in contact with
    the contact arm when cold. The plate was a sort of pyramid shape with
    an apex height of only 1 or 2 mm. When the circuit was switched on the 
    plate warmed up & attempted to bend away from the arm, but because of 
    the pre-formed stressing couldn't until it reached a certain force 
    when it would come away with a click. The metal would then cool down 
    as there was no longer any warming current through it, and click back 
    making the circuit again. Nothing to relay, see?
    
    This was a good 10 - 15 years ago, so the modern clickers may be
    different, but not on Minis I think. Austin Rover (who made my Mini,
    and my workshop manual) called them Flasher Units.
    
    Andy
    
    P.S. Indicators & hazard warners now work fine after some new 'flasher
    units' from the local Rover garage.

    Oops, there I go again... sorry! Okay, Political Standoff - "Flasher
    Unit" it is...!

    My engine is rocking all over the place, this engine steady just isn't
    good enough. Anyone know of good place to get the following :-
    
    	o Adjustable ultimate engine steady (Avonbar already suggested)
    
    	o Right-hand Allegro 1300 engine steady
    
    	o Left-hand Mini GEARBOX engine steady (not ENGINE steady)
    
    Or else does anyone with some decent brackets and a welder fancy making
    me one up?!
    
    Regards,
    	Dan(engine wobbling all over the shop)

    Anyone still out there?!
    
    Anyway, re.-1, I put a lower hearbox engine steady on along with an
    ultimate engine steady using Cavalier bolt and bushes - thing's solid
    as a rock now.
    
    Dan$trying_to_breathe_some_life_back_into_this!

    I read in Mini World last night that the magazine team bumped (not
    literally!) into someone on the Italian Job run who had welded half a
    footpump between engine and bulkhead as a temporary fix. It, er,
    appeared to do the job :-o
    
    Andy

    :-o !!!!!!!! Hahahaha! A novel idea, I s'pose! Never thought of that,
    myself....
    
    Cheers,
    Dan

    Oh no, Grant, you're letting the mini AND the metro go? I hope this is
    to finance the monster 1430cc KAD Mini roadster tucked away in the
    garage somewhere ;-) !!
    
    Cheers,
    Dan

Dan, 

No....  Iv'e just bought a VW Golf Ragtop, BBS, Karmen Kit Etc...  and my intrest in Mini's has gone 
Sadly as now I can Floor the Golf and overtake people..!!!!

Anyone wants the Mini... being in sales i am willing to haggle..!"!!

GaH

    Oh well, never mind. It was fun while it lasted, surely?
    
    Cheers,
    Dan

Yeah.... T'was fun....but I will always like the Mini's and 
maybe one day i'll start again...??!!!

GAH

    P.S. Grant - someone's nicked one of your rear speakers :-)

    Help please
    	I have a mini city (W REG) I also have a 1300 metro engine which
    	I would like to put into the mini.
    	The problem I have found in doing this is there is a breather pipe
    	that goes from the clutch side to the timeing cover which the mini
    	engine hasent got well not in the same place.
    	The only think is will it make any diffrents if I change the
    	timieing cover for the mini cover.I would like to change it because
    	the fan wouldent be able to turn and that not to good i think.
    
    	P.S sorry about the spelling.
    
    						ALAN AND SHERMAN.
    
    						
     

    The 1000cc had just one crankcase breather, on the clutch bell
    housing.
    
    1275cc engines had two - the clutch bellhousing one and, as you say,
    one on the timing cover.
    
    The extra engine breather really is preferable so if at all possible
    you want to keep it. 1.3 minis still have the 2 breathers (as far as I
    know). From what you say, I gather the fan is fouling on the breather
    mechanism.
    
    Well, you *could* swap the timing covers, if the timing chain/s are
    identical on each engine (I seem to remember some engines had single
    timing chains, and some had twin??? But I don't know). There would be
    no problem running the engine with just one breather, although in the
    interests of economy and reliability, the more the better.
    
    By far preferable, if at all possible, is to find a fan that will clear
    the new breather setup. Take a look at some modern 1275cc minis, I'm
    sure they have the extra breather..... if you can swap for one of these
    later setups, you could keep the extra breather.
    
    Good luck!
    
    Cheers,
    Dan

    THANKS DAN
    	THE ONLY THING BEING I DONT KNOW ANYBODY WITH A 1275
    
    	AND NEXT TIME GET TO THE POINT QUICKER OK .
                                                 
    
    					ALAN.

    Oops, soz.

    Deer Alun,
    I priferhd the spellung  mista  kes  BUT know i've goat a sore
    head could yoo turn douyn the voluoom.
    
    [email protected]      
                 
        
        
        
       

    	I'm so sorry 
    		I will not do it again.
    
    
    			meet you in the play ground at 4.....
    
    
    					this note just for Mini people.