Conference napalm::musclecars

On my 76 Camaro, I'm considering some upgrades to the brake systems in the next
year.  One is to use the larger diameter rotor/spindles from a Caprice and 
swap over the tie rod ends and ball joints as needed.  Some of the car nut 
magazines have covered this.  Also, putting in a posi rearend with the disk
brakes looks attractive.  With that it may be required to put in a new master
cylinder also.  Other magazines have covered that.

To make it optimal, a brake proportioning valve may be needed.  Has anyone done
any of this work?  Any things to be careful of?  What's the optimum method of
setting up that proportioning valve?

put the brakes on,
Matt

Matt,

A timely question about the preportioning valve.  I need to install a 
preportioning valve also.  When I put the Chryco 8-3/4" rearend in the
Vega, it dramatically increased the rear brake swept area and now the
rear brakes will lock up too easily.

The fix is to install the Mopar preportioning valve ($60something in the
Jeg's catalog) and dial back the pressure to the rear brakes.  A friend
just added one to his Challenger and the installation is no big deal. It
just splices into the rear brake line.  Just cut the line, install 2
fittings, double flare the tubes, and bolt it in.  I plan on doing mine 
in the next month.

Mark

      My brother used the Mopar valve on his Buick and it worked
    fine.  This was needed after he converted his GM A-body drums
    to late 70's Trans-Am disks.
    
    Rich

    Rich,
    
     Do you have an details of the conversion. I know that the spindle
    height of the F-body is much greater than the A-body's, requiring
    excessive shimming of the upper A-arm to obtain a proper alignment.
    
    Btw: In this months Hot-rod there is a brief statement about putting
    Camaro 1LE brakes using late model Caprice spindles and aftermarket
    A-arms on a '65 Chevelle.. Now there's some stopping power.
    
    Chris

    I've been doing some research on putting disc's up front on the '55.
    It looks like I can use rotors and calipers from '69-'72 A-bodies or
    '69-'74 Novas.  This will supposedly work with the stock spindles.
    Also, converting over to dual res master cylinder.  In everything
    I've read it's been suggested that an adjustable proportioning valve
    be used to help tune the system.   The only big-buck part is the 
    caliper mounting brackets which will run me about $175 through
    Danchuck. 
    
    This may not be the correct place for this but while I'm in doing the 
    front brakes and suspension I'm also going to swap out the original 
    '55 heavy duty springs to lower the car about 2� inches (as oppossed
    to raising it 3" for the gassser look as it is now...).  I understand
    that '67-68 Camaro/Firechicken springs will give me the 2�" I'm 
    looking for.  I've got a decent pair of '69 Camaro springs from a 
    (I beleive) 307 car.  Does anyone know what differences there may be
    between these and '67-68' springs?
    
    Thanks in advance for any help,
    
    /jim

    Re-1
     None. That is the 67, 68 and 69 Camaro's all used the same size/type
    spring. The spring rate may be different, as the 307 did not come with
    any upgraded handling package, so the springs may be "soft".
                                                               John M.
    

    John,
    
     Right except for '67's which used monoleafs as well as some '68's.
    
    Chris

    Thanks, John.  I've got a small block in the '55, if that was your
    question.  It sounds like it's a safe bet to at least give it a try.
    The suspension travel will be limited a bit but I can't afford dropped
    spindles right now.
    
    /jim

      RE: .4 
    
    Chris, I can give you as much detail of the swap as you want.  Right
    off I can tell you that it is a tough job.  Don't listen to people who
    say you can get away with the stock upper A-arms.  The stock arms will
    physically work, but your front end will not come close to alignment.
    
      The car in question was a '72 Buick Skylark that had the stock drums
    and power brakes.  1978 TA backing plates, rotors, and calipers were
    used to make the swap as well as tie rod ends and ball joints.  
    (I remember something about 1979 TA parts not working correctly, maybe 
    due to a metric tie rod end??).  Since everything was apart, new Skylark
    front springs were installed. To cure the shim problem on the upper
    A-arms, a pair of properly sized, tubular, upper A-arms was used.
    A Mopar Direct-Connection prop. valve was used adjust the line pressure
    front to rear.
      The total job took a LONG time, mostly due to learning about the swap
    along the way.
      The before and after front end height is nearly the same, but cornering 
    is improved and braking is excellent.
    
      I have probably forgotten half the details, but if you have any other
    questions let me know and I will get the answers from my brother.
    
      BTW.  If you want to see how the swap looks when finished, I can
    show you as my brother still has the car.
    
    Rich

       Rich, when the adjustable proportioning valve was added to the rear
     brake line, was the line still attached to the stock proportioning
     valve? Or do you have to create a new line out of the master cylinder
     to bypass the stock valve?
    
                                                             Thanks, Eric.

      The valve was put in-line between the master cylinder and the stock
    proportioning valve.  The stock valve was still used.
    
    Rich

    I own a 1989 Thunderbird Supercoupe that I love. It has one problem
    IMHO and that is the brakes. They seem to be sensitive to warpage when
    stopping/slowing from high speed (100+). I wonder if getting the rotors
    drilled and changing to another type of pad would be of help. Anybody
    go any ideas?
    
    Larry

	I've had the same problem with my '90 SuperCoupe.  There is a 
	recall out on the front brakes that I had done several months ago.
	If you haven't had the car in to the dealer in a while, I might be
	worth a call to check the latest service bulletins.  This freebie
	netted me a new pair of front rotors (Already had warped two sets).

	I doubt getting the rotors drilled would help.  They are already
	vented, so I would expect the heat dissapation to actually get worse
	if you drilled them.  The major benefit of drilling them is to
	remove foreign material from between the rotor and the pad during 
	braking, not provide extra cooling.

	If I warp the front rotors again, I'll be replacing them with a 
	beefier unit.  I don't know where I'd get them.  Probably either
	Ford Motorsports, or maybe one of the non Ford aftermarket places
	like JFZ.  I might also consider routing a dryer duct from under 
	the front spoiler to the wheel wells to help cool the brakes.  

	Good luck,
	--Dave

    re .4 and .9
    	Instead of using tubular A-arms one could use the "Problem solver 
    camber kit".  This is offered at Western Auto.  If you do not have a
    Western Auto around write me a note and I will get you the part number.
    The problem solver is the rod that goes between the upper A-arm
    bushings(forgot the name of the dang thing since its been a while since
    I last did an alingment).  It has an offset to accomodate the new 
    camber/caster angle that aging, saging frames often experience. It will
    work fine to give about 1.5 degrees of camber(should be enough). They
    cost much less than new A-arms.  They cost about 20.00 dollars each.

Hi,
I don't know if I typed in anywhere about this truck, but anyway what we are 
dealing with here is a 55 ford pick up, 302, C4. The brakes are now giving me
problems. Stock front drums. The master cylinder is relocated from under the
floor to a more conventional location on the firewall. We used a more modern
master (new) from a 71 maverick, with a proportioning valve (used) out of a
drum braked LTD. Every thing worked perfectly, for a while. Now what's happening
is the front brakes lock and won't release. The pedel pumps up very hard and 
won't back off. If you crack the bleeders fluid comes out under pressure.
Any clues what would cause this ???

				Thanks,,,
					Brian,,,

See reply in CARBUFFS

You've blocked off the bleed hole.

Additionally;

	the mc probably isn't adequate
	the "proportioning" valve isn't needed except to light the dash 
indicator and is probably screwing up the front-rear balance