Conference vmszoo::rc

    
    I guess I need to ask this a different way. I have some covering that
    is lifting off an area that has epoxy on it. Its an edge an keeps
    coming up. I don't want to have to recover the whole area so I'm
    looking for something that will make the covering stick ( the covering
    is fabric) I tried Balsarite but all that does is leave a film that
    just peels off after it dries. It terrible to try and sand it Balsa
    rite not to mention the fumes. Any takers?
    

    I've used Balsarite before and it sure didn't leave any film. It's
    very much like a clear dope. You have to sand alot of it off because
    it raises the grain in the wood, but then it still sticks pretty
    well. As a matter of fact, you can use clear nitrate dope instead of
    Balsarite and it does the same thing. When it's dry, you iron the 
    covering back down and the balsarite is activated by the heat of the
    iron. It's always worked for me. Don't know what to tell ya.
    
    You "are" ironing the covering back down aren't you??????
    
    Steve

    
    RE: 1480.2
    
    Yes, I am ironing the fabric back down. What has happened is that I
    have had to peel back some of the fabric to get at the work area. Now
    this peeled back fabric has lost some of its backing. No problem just
    sand off the left over from the wood (that has epoxy over it). I put
    the balsarite on, over the epoxy, and when I went to sand it, it was like
    trying to sand 30 minute epoxy...difficult. Plus as I sanded it and it
    became warm from the friction, it peeled of the wood. Now this was also
    true for the area that did not have epoxy but was just plain wood, it
    also peeled off.
    Question is do I have to sand down the bumps and bubbles completely or
    will they smooth out when I iron down the fabric?
    

There are multiple flavors of Balsarite. There's one for use with films 
which is an "enhancer" (read: they left out some of the glue) and there 
is the one for Micafilm. The "enhancer" is the equivalent of Nitrate dope. 
The Micafilm version has good adhesion qualities for just about anything. 
I've used it with Easter basket plastic film (yes, it shrinks with heat 8^)
If your covering has lost it's glue through the repeated attempts to seal 
it down, you need the Micafilm version now.

I don't understand why you're sanding AFTER you apply the Balsarite. I'm
sure you're removing what you put on. Balsarite should have the 
consistancy of paint. You should brush it on, let it dry, and iron the 
covering down. Sanding is a preparatory step BEFORE painting it on. 
Balsarite should be thin enough that you can put it on without lumps and 
bubbles. Any unevenness will level out when you heat it with the iron.

    The balsarite that I'm using is suppose to be for fabric. Its rather
    thick. It has the consistency of honey and does not brush on very easy.

    
    I tried heating the balsarite up to above room temperature of 70
    degrees. I have been using this stuff in the basement and its only
    about 64 degrees down there. I never realised that this stuff would be
    so sensitive to temperature. At 70 degrees the viscosity is lower and
    it flows much eaiser with no bubbles or bumps. There is still the issue
    of sticking to the epoxy area. There is an improvement over not using
    balsarite but not much. By the way it sticks it seems that over time it
    will just start to curl up again in this area. I guess the only answer
    is to recover the wing in this area so the edge does not end at the
    spot with epoxy but goes beyond it. This is the first time I have used
    balsarite and using it for areas of wood it works fine but anything
    else I would give it low marks, but I guess it was not designed for
    anything else. Any ideas on what would work on wood that has epoxy on
    it?
    

    Get the piece that keeps coming loose ironed down.  Get a piece of
    clear monokote and iron it over the offending area going about an inch
    out from where it keeps coming loose.
    
    Will

    
    RE: .7.....Thanks sounds like a workable alternative.

After you iron it down carefully go around the edges with thin CA.
Carefully - so as to not make a mess.  It is not unusual for folks
to CA the edges down on Monokote to resist peeling up from fuel.

I did this to one of my first gliders and never had any edges coming up.
If recent years I have only done this in problem areas.

Also I believe both types of balsarite should have the consistency of water.
But I can't for the life of me remember which is which in regards to supplying
the missing adhesive for Micafilm.  I do know from experience that the wrong
kind is useless for ironing - I've done that.

Bye          --+--
Kay R. Fisher  |
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    Regular Balsarite is for Micafilm and acts like an adhesive.  It is
    pretty thick and gummy and it melts if you put an iron on it. 
    Balsarite for Film is just Nitrate dope.  It is thin and it will not
    act as an adhesive.  It's used to prep the surface under film that has
    its own adhesive.  
    
    Charlie
    

    
    The Balsarite that I used says on the can for FABRIC, which is what I
    am using. Even when I raise the temperature above 70 degrees the
    consistencey is still thick, not at all like water.