Conference vmszoo::rc

    It sounds to me that you're using too low a heat for the monocoat.
    Monocoat is one of the highest heat coverings I've used. I've gone to
    the point of melting it and backed off a little in some applications.
    I'd try going a little hotter on the iron and practicing with some
    scrap. Well sealed monocoat won't separate from itself. You'll tear it
    before the seam will separate. I run my iron at about 1 o'clock (if you
    consider the medium setting noon). Keep in mind that every iron is
    different and that scale is just there for reference. Almost every
    other covering I use down in the 10:00 to 11:00 range (below medium)
    
    There's a temperature table for various coverings in here somewhere (I
    know, big help 8^) as well as the recommendation in the instructions
    (that paper you tear off and throw away when unwrapping it). A meat
    thermometer is a good ballpark for getting close to recommendations.
    Try to be careful and not scratch the sole of the iron (or go out and
    buy one of those fancy, custom, iron temperature gauges).
    
    Take your time and seal the edges well and you'll be fine. The cap
    strips are the only way to do this easily (but the WOT4 note has a
    different method that uses glass and makes an entire wing panel BEFORE
    putting it on the plane)

>	My question is, will this be enough to really hold? I have had some
>	problems on other planes with the Monokote coming loose on the 
>	trailing edge of the elevator and rudder. I figured that this was
>	due partly to the seams being across the airflow. If I do the wing the
>	way I plan, the seams will be with the airflow. I am also wondering
>	about the overall strength of the wing, using may small peices of
>	Monokote instead of one large piece?

Just coat the entire wing one color (white) then put the red stripes on top.
Monokote adds a lot of strength to a wing and in general Chipmunks will not
suffer from the additional weight of a bit of Monokote.  When you yank
back on that stick and pull a tight loop the Monokote on the bottom of the
wing is doing it's structural job.  Other places in this notes file they
talk about better ways to put Monokote on top of Monokote and decrease
the bubbles.  Might consider red Monokote trim material.  This doesn't
iron on but rather just sticks on.  But if you do be careful - you only
get one shot at placing it on straight - then it sticks forever.

Bye          --+--
Kay R. Fisher  |
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	I have used both the trim sheets and the solvent with varying results.
	The trim sheets don't seem to be 100% fuel proof, once they get fuel 
	on them, the adhesive seems to get soft and work its way out from 
	under the trim. At that point the edges of the trim start to lift.

	The Bubble-Free solvent seems to work well for small areas. It 
	definitelty makes the trim stick. If I try to move the trim after it
	has touched the solvent, it leaves most of the color layer of the 
	Monokote behind.

	Maybe I need to convince Top-Flite to produce Monokote in stripes.


Jim

    You can spray a monokote surface with window cleaner, "float" the trim
    material into position then squeegie out the window cleaner and the
    trim will stick as you squeegie it.  This also helps keep the bubble
    issues to a minimum.
    
    I too find that the trim bleeds eventually or just peels loose.  If you
    can stand the weight, clear coat the job when your done.  It will look
    permanently waxed and the seal is excellent.
    
    Will

    
    
    I was doing some trim work on a new plane with the colors blue, red and
    orange. The only trim color I didn't have was red but I had some reg.
    monocoate and used that as trim when the plane was all done there were
    several bubbles with the trim but not one with the regular monocoate
    red. Has anyone else seen or done this? I built a Sterling Fledgling
    with the Chipmunk Red white and Blue all with monocoate and no trim
    material It's the prittiest plane I got.
    
    Bruce 

    Another covering question. I am building a 2m Spirit. I would like to
    cover the aft end of the canopy (the part which extends beyond the
    cockpit) with monocote to match the LE color of the wing (pearl white).
    Can I cover the plastic canopy with monocote, should I paint it
    instead, or should I just forget the whole thing. I have tinted the
    canopy with brown RIT dye which resulted in a bronze tint.
    	A second (non-covering) question. The rear end of the canopy does
    not quite touch the LE of the wing. There is about an 1/8" space which
    bothers me. Could I use hot water on the extension to bend the canopy
    down permanently or could I use a heat gun (cautiously) without
    deforming the parts I don't want changed. All ideas will be
    appreciated.

Hi Earle,

The method that works best for the lexan body cars is to paint from the 
inside. With the tinting done this won't give you white. Monocoat won't 
stick so the best you can do is to mask it and spray the outer surface. 
As far as the rear canopy area goes, without a frame in that area, it 
moves around quite a bit. You might consider putting a soft balsa strip 
around the inside and then sanding it to the contour of the wing. With 
the rear part painted, this wouldn't show and would help seal it. One 
step further would be to trim the canopy even with the front of the wing 
and then build the painted part up out of wood and cover it as part of 
the wing. You could leave a 1/4" of the canopy overlapping this section 
for a good seal.

Unless you have a form to support the canopy, using the heat gun is going 
to give you a wavy surface since things will settle at different rates at 
different places.

>                 <<< Note 1358.6 by SOLVIT::SOARNG::TIMMONS >>>
>                           -< Monocote and Canopies >-
...
>    	A second (non-covering) question. The rear end of the canopy does
>    not quite touch the LE of the wing. There is about an 1/8" space which
>    bothers me. Could I use hot water on the extension to bend the canopy
>    down permanently or could I use a heat gun (cautiously) without
>    deforming the parts I don't want changed. All ideas will be
>    appreciated.

I agree with Jim.
But not enough can be said about NOT using heat on the canopy.
If you heat it up you will screw it up and wish you had never
started - does this sound like I've been there.

When clear plastic parts are not a perfect shape - you have to accept that
or throw them away and start new.

Your mileage may vary - but I'll bet a Fribble that you can't improve
the canopy with heat!

Bye          --+--
Kay R. Fisher  |
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Kay, Jim

Does the same apply if you heat the canopy in warm water? I seem to remember 
having luck with thin plastic bent this way, but I never tried it on a canopy!

Cheers

Nigel.

PS No.... I don't know why it might be better, but I think I was OK 8^)

it would work better due to better temperature control. Even with live 
steam you'd be talking less heat than a monocoat heat gun.

    You can get the monokote to stick to the canopy if you use the trim
    solvent for monokote.  
    
    Will
    

    re:.11
    Yup. I tried this over the weekend and it werks! (Just had to match the
    wing color!). Also, I felt like taking chances soooo..... I DID use my
    iron to smooth out the wrinkles and further activate the adhesive. NO 
    canopy deforming. I just kept the iron moving (temp. control around 2
    3/4 on a Tower unit). I will probably use a bit of RC-56 on the edges
    to seal the Monocote-canopy bond to keep it from unraveling.
    	I also used a bit of balsa as a "former" on the inside of the
    canopy to give it the final shape I wanted. I roughened up the inside
    of the canopy slightly (under the covering area) and glued it with
    RC-56. The jury is still out on this part as I left it clamped
    overnight and did not remove it this morning.....Perfection is only an
    ECO away!

    I don't know if this note will be seen or not, this file has been
    very inactive. Im looking for ways to cover foam wings OTHER than wood
    followed by glass cloth and finishing resins or low temp film. Maybe
    I should reword that. Are there any other ways to cover foam besides the
    above mentioned. Is there any way to get silk span to stick to foam
    prior to painting. I know you can spray them with Pactra formula U but
    it leaves the grain of the foam showing. Is it hard to cover foam with
    cloth and resin? Thanks for any and all suggestions.
    
                                                      Jim

                     <<< Note 1358.13 by CSLALL::ONEILL >>>
                               -< covering foam >-

    I don't know if this note will be seen or not, this file has been
    very inactive. Im looking for ways to cover foam wings OTHER than wood
    followed by glass cloth and finishing resins or low temp film. Maybe
    I should reword that. Are there any other ways to cover foam besides the
    above mentioned. Is there any way to get silk span to stick to foam
    prior to painting. I know you can spray them with Pactra formula U but
    it leaves the grain of the foam showing. Is it hard to cover foam with
    cloth and resin? Thanks for any and all suggestions.
    
                                                      Jim

Wrapping paper - use white glue.

Bye          --+--
Kay R. Fisher  |
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Re: -.2

You can also cover foam with thin card stock like used for posters.  Glue can 
be either white or epoxy.  Very strong for the weight.  Just paint it or clear 
coat.