Conference vmszoo::rc

    
    
    	To start this off...  I was looking for a 2 meter sailplane and
    didn't want the usual Gentle Lady.  I found an advertizement for 
    a fiberglas fused faom winger sailplane in Model Avaition.  It being
    called the "Stinger".  I called the add and found out that the plane
    had been designed and marketed as a slope soarer but that I could
    order it with a number of airfoils.  I was interested in the plane as
    a thermal duration 2 meter design.  THe designer told me that a few
    were being flown as such.  So I ordered it..
    
    THE KIT
    	The stinger sports a fiberglas 3/4 fuse, balsa covered foam wings
    and a preshapened horizontal stab.  It's a "T" tail design with the 
    elevator cut from the horizontal stab.  It also uses flap a rons for
    aileron and flaps.  The radio is secured to a center keel and a
    fiberglas nose cone slides over this.  Included in the kit is a plan
    sheet wing hold down blocks and a dyhedral brace.  It's radio layout
    is for two servos in the wing cord.  One to run each flap a ron and an
    elevator servo mounted to the plywood keel.
    
    My Plane
    
    	I ordered the plane with a 2014 airfoil.  This has required me to
    add filler strips to the fuse wing saddle and glas them in to match the
    2014 airfoil.  I've also added a rudder so the plywood keel now houses
    two 9201 mini servos. The std radion RX and a 500 ma battery will also
    be mounted to the keel.  I've decided to split the flap a rons into
    seperate flaps/ailerons.  This has required me to routs a cable from
    the center cord out to the aileron horn location.  I did this by
    mounting a 5/32nds rod into a drill and drilling my way out app. 20"
    into the wing.  I layed the sheeted wing panel on it's bottom and
    guided the rod along the bottom sheeting.  I then used a pin to verify
    the location of the end of the rod.  Then I drilled a 5/32nds " hole
    using a braass tube from the top of the wing to the bottom sheetig.  I
    again verified the locatio of the tube with a pin and the drew a curve
    to join the two channels.  The balsa sheeting was removed and a yellow
    inner jacket routed out into the wing from the center cord. Once
    secured I re-enstalled the sheeting and cut off the excess.  To run the
    flaps I'm using the torque rods supplied with the kit.
    
    
    Tom
    

>                   <<< Note 1323.0 by SA1794::TENEROWICZT >>>
>                        -< "Stinger" Construction Note >-

OK - as though we're starting off with a fresh start.

How about a description of what a Stinger is, why
you decided to purchase it, price, expectations, etc.

Bye          --+--
Kay R. Fisher  |
---------------O---------------
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    	Kay,
    		The stinger is a slope design by a guy named Vern Hunt.
    I purchased it because it was one of only a few 2 meter planes that
    came with a fiberglas fuse and presheeted wings.   Add to this I
    could get it in the airfoil I wanted and that sealed the deal.
    
    
    What you get...
    
    
    		In the box is a pair of presheeted wings, a 3/4 fiberglas
    fuse, a fiberglas nose cone, a preshaped horizontal stab/elevator and
    a bag of some wood parts and hardware.
    
    
    		The glas fuse is made to extend from app. 2" in front of
    the wings LE to the end of the vertical stab. This includes a cut out
    for the wing saddle and the installation  of the elevator pushrod.
    		To this you glue a 1/4" plywood keel and it's 1/8" plywood
    supports.  This reenforces the nose and is where the radio is mounted.
    A nose cone slips over this to cover the radio and finist the fuse.
    The fuse also has wing hold down blocks in the front and back of the
    wing saddle.  Two bolts are used. One in the front and one in the back.
    The horizontal stab is preshaped so you have to transfer this shape to
    the fiberglas vertical stab and remove that material.  The elevator is
    cut from this stab and the stab glued to the vertical. This joint in
    reenforced with glass cloth.
    		The wings come presheeted as I've stated before.  You cut
    the aileron/flap out of the wing and cap them with 1/8" balsa at the
    LE of the aileron/flap and the TE of the wing. Per the kit you install
    two servos in the wing center cord to run the flap " a" rons.  
    
    
    My plane.
    
    Mods.
    		1) split the flap/aileron into seperate flaps and ailerons.
    
    		2) add rudder to the TE of the vertical stab.
    
    		3) add a hook for the winch.
    
    
    
    
    To date..
    
    		Last night I was able to get one aileron and both flaps
    finished and ready for hinging.  They will be covered before I hinge
    them.  The other aileron has the LE cap installed and squared to the
    top and bottom surfaces. 
    
    		I still need to install the wing bolt blocks and sand the
    keel a bit to allow the nose cone to fit properly.  Then install the
    radio and then finish.
    
    
    Tom
    

    
    I got to work on the Stinger last nigh for awhile.  I'd been fiddling
    with different rudder shapes and couldn't find anything that seemed to
    look right.  Then it struck me.  The rudder was staring me right in the
    face and I didn't see it.  So,  I cut the rudder out of the molded
    fiberglas that was the vertical stab.  I left sufficient material to
    support the "T" Tail and faced the new opening with balsa.  This
    brought back the stiffness that had been a part of the molded stab.
    Tonight I hope to get to making the rudder out of the fiberglas shell
    I removed last night.
    
    I also got the wing tips sanded.  I had cut the wing cores at 45 degree
    angles.  I then faced this with 1/32" plywood.  If I can get the wing
    mounting block cut tonight I may just be able to finish the
    construction tonight.  All that would reamin in to mount the radio and
    make sure exerything works before covering and finishing.  I may opt to
    go with purple wings and horizontal stab with a white panel on the
    bottom of one wing and the Lime yellow fuse and rudder.
    
    
    Tom

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Last night I got the rudder made from the fiberglas shell that I'd
    removed the night before. I'll be using a tape hinge so the hinge
    line for the rudder is all to one side.  I also got the wing hold down
    blocks cut and glued into place.  Tonight I'm going to try and get the
    wing drilled and secured and all of the control surfaces hinged.  If
    I get this done I should start covering this weekend.
    
    
    Tom
    
    
    
    I still need to install a toe hook and will most likely go with the
    design discussed within this file.  However, I have another question
    regarding toehooks.  How large or small does the mounting block
    need to be?  Should I be concerned about spreading the load
    over a large surface area?
    
    
    

    I'd consider tying it into the keel you've got in there if possible.
    You need to figure out whether you want the tow hook to pull free
    before the wings fold or not. A good zoom launch is going to put quite
    a bit of pressure on the hook. I've always installed it into a 1"x3"
    piece of 1/8" plywood glued into the fuselage bottom (but these are
    built up wood fuselages) I've never had one pull out even when I've
    folded wings (they managed to drag the fuselage quite a distance along
    the ground). The long skinny piece of ply allows me to move my hook
    forward and back to tune the launch angle.

    What is the projected finished weight of the Stinger?  How much wing
    area does it have?  Are the aileron/flap servos mounted in the wings?
    
                                                       Thanks,
    
                                                       Jim

    
    
    	I haven't wrote an update for quite some time.  The plan
    was to get rid of this plane but failing that, it looks like
    this ship will be finished after I get the aurora construction
    completed.  Once the aurora is completed I'll be spending my time
    getting the fuse painted.  This will take a few weeks so the
    Stinger will most likely be brought down from the attic and 
    completed.  I plan to install a 12" dyhedral brace made of 1/8"
    balsa laminated with CF tape.  the material is already done.
    I need only cut a channel in the joined wing and then fit the
    brace.  Then I'll finish installing the wing onto the fuse and
    she's basicly ready for finish. I hope to paint her yellow as I'm
    painting the Aurora fuse.  All control surfaces will be hinged using 
    the tape method Terry outlined for the legend.  I may use trim
    monocote instead of clear tape to see how this works.  I may even
    install the rudder on the Aurora with a tape hinge.  I's like to use
    the tape hinge method on all of the aurora's surfaces but am leary
    about the flight stresses.  the rudder will be the test and if
    acceptable perhaps the next pattern ship will see the tape hinges used
    throughout.
    
    	Getting back to the Stinger I can see the plane with a yellow fuse
    and horizontal stab/elevator.  Plump crazy wings with a window of
    white  on the bottom of one wing panel.  Rudder will also be yellow.
    
    
    
    Tom

    Hint: DON'T use trim Monokote for hinges. Too "brittle", tears easily
    if it gets a nick, and is a pain to work with. It can be used to seal
    the hinge line on a previously hinged surface.
    
    When using tape hinges on wet power planes, remember that fuel will
    loosen the tape unless the edges are sealed with something.
    
    Clear Scotch vinyl tape seems to work pretty well. Beware the cheaper
    brands until you test their long term adhesion.
    
    Terry

    Thank's Terry,
    
    	For the pattern plane, I'm running a tuned pipe with an exhaust
    exit diverter.  The end of the diverter ends up hanging a few inches
    below the fuse and this really limits the amount of fuel exhaust that
    tends to get onto a plane.  In the past I'd have to wipe the bottom
    of the fuse after every flight.  Now with the diverter I can fly an
    entire day without any real build-up.  Two minutes cleanup and she's
    as good as new.
    	Again, I plan to use the rudder as a test on the Aurora.  The
    stinger will get tape on all control surfaces.
    
    
    	Tom