| T.R | Title | User | Personal
Name | Date | Lines |
|---|
| 1144.1 | OUT DAMNED SPOT... | GHANI::CASEYA | THE DESERT RAT RC-AV8R | Thu Aug 13 1987 11:37 | 11 |
| As Ken suggested, K2R spot remover ix simply excellent for sponging
oil out of oil-soaked balsa wood. Simply spray on a thin layer
over the affected area (soaking the wood is not necessary/recommended)
and allow to dry. You'll notice a "yellowing" of the bone-white
K2R powder as oil is absorbed into it. Now merely brush the powder
off. Repeat this process 'til no more yellowing is observed and
you will have removed ALL the oil yer' likely to. At this point
you might brush some balsa-rite on the problem area to insure a
good bond when you Mono-Kote it.
Adios, Al
|
| 1144.2 | | SPKALI::THOMAS | | Thu Aug 13 1987 15:14 | 16 |
|
I hole heartly agree with Al's step of using Balsa Rite applied
to the balsa prior to covering.
One other suggestion is a modification of the heat iron method.
Use your heat gun to warm the surface. You can scraps and dab
the oil up with papertowels. If you weren't in a hurry to fly
this ship(say over the winter) you could pack the ship in a box
filled with speedy dry. In the spring the ship would look almost
like it was made of new balsa wood.
However use caution when/if you heat the oily surface. Do this
is a well ventilated area. You indicated that you covered the surface
with CA. Warmer/hot CA will give off fumes.
Tom
|
| 1144.3 | Try MEK; it works to. | RIPPER::CHADD | Go Fast; Turn Left | Thu Aug 13 1987 19:09 | 19 |
| Re: .22
I have used and it works a solvent called MEK, don't pick me up if the spelling
is incorrect but I short for Methyl Ethyl Keytone. Don't get it confused with
PEKP the catalyst for polyester resin.
Simply brush it on liberally and the oil just disappears. A secondary use is as
a paint striper when you do a repaint job.
As with all solvents be careful not to inhale the fumes or get it on your
hands. I don't trust any of them with my health.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Re:.24
Bob, You had better come to OZ so we will teach you how to fly then you can
enjoy the delights of an oil soaked wing.
John.
|
| 1144.12 | fuse totalled from mid to front | BRYAN::ARCHER | Brian Archer DTN 444-2137 | Tue Sep 13 1988 21:22 | 34 |
| Well, my $6.00 torch was pretty good....except I now wish I had a soldering
type tip on the end. I scorched just a bit of my plane...until I broke out
a heat shield. I'll keep using it though. The solder connections were
excellent! I had some great flights with the repaired Strikemaster! In
fact I performed my first (and second, and three in a row) barrel roll!
On to my next project.......I let a friend fly the Kavalier....CRASH!!!!!
My main concern was that he felt worse than I did. Anyway, the wing is not
bad. I just need to glue the two halves together again. They separated in
an even split on the seam. I may even convert the alierons to flaperons in
the process!
Alas, the fuselage is a different story :*( The fuse is totalled from the
front to the back of the "cockpit". From there back, its in perfect
condition. The control rods and surfaces are still in perfect working order!
My question is.....from those experienced in re-kitting, what is the best
way to proceed from here! I have ordered a fuse kit from SIG (and already
recieved said kit). Is it best to try to piece the forward half of the
fuse to the existing back? Or is it better to remove the rudder and
elevator from the remainder of the fuse and build a whole new fuse to mount
them on (from the fuse kit, of course).
I just looking for some more free advice.....and wanted to let y'all know
I'm still at it (and having a great time.....I'm hooked).
I've been fondly gazing at the Super Aeromaster I puchased....winter
project at this point. I'm putting an O.S 61 SF-P (also gazing at it!) in
it. Whadda'ya think???
If anyone gets to Michigan, let me know!
Cheers
B-
|
| 1144.13 | the long and short of it | K::FISHER | There's a whale in the groove! | Wed Sep 14 1988 10:29 | 21 |
| >What are the applications for the three different wing configurations
>listed in the plans. Kay, which one did you use...with what engine...and
>how does it fly?
I did the short/short configuration. I haven't flown it enough yet to
really comment intelligently - but Charley Watt has the long/long wing
version and he flew mine at the last fun fly so maybe he will comment on
the various wing configurations.
I've got an old OS61 black head heli engine and presently it is not running
too reliably - probably fuel tank position problems or muffler pressure.
But during the first two flights when the engine ran better it had plenty
of power and this is an old engine without Schneurle porting.
About the repairs on the fuselage - I can't say that I would know what to
do myself in your case. Generally I never feel that the plane is as good
after I do extensive repairs and since you have the new fuse kit I think
you should build everything new that you have parts for - that way
it is straight and light. On the other hand I'm pretty lazy and might
be tempted to hack saw the front off and just do that - probably end
up being crooked, heavy, and not as sturdy.
|
| 1144.14 | Broken noses | RICKS::MINER | Electric = No more glow-glop | Wed Sep 14 1988 10:54 | 22 |
| RE: < Note 669.13 by BRYAN::ARCHER "Brian Archer DTN 444-2137" >
When I crunched the nose of my Electrostreak, I just cut off the
damaged part at an angle, made some new fuse sections from sheet,
and started gluing. I re-inforced the area around the joint with
1/32" plywood on the inside. However, since the 'streak is scratch
built, I couldn't just order a new fuse kit.
I'd recommend saving the fuse kit for more disastrous crashes and
buying some balsa to rebuild the crunched one. Just make SURE you
glue everything on straight. (I used a fuse jig on mine.)
_____
| \
| \ Silent POWER!
_ ___________ _________ | Happy Landings!
| \ | | | | |
|--------|- SANYO + ]-| ASTRO |--| - Dan Miner
|_/ |___________| |_________| |
| / | " The Earth needs more OZONE,
| / not Caster Oil!! "
|_____/
|
| 1144.15 | I rebuilt! | VTMADE::SOUTIERE | | Wed Sep 14 1988 11:49 | 12 |
|
I guess it depends on the time you want to spend on rebuilding
a fuse vs. the time its going to take to build the kit and move
the tail feathers, servos, gas tank etc...
I HAVE rebuilt my Eaglet after a crash with similar results. I
ended up re-fitting all the broken parts (or at least most of them)
and bracing up the weak areas with thin sheeting. The plane is
definetly heavier (I can't do outside loops anymore) than it was,
but I didn't have to buy another fuse.
Ken
|
| 1144.16 | Do which ever is easiest | LEDS::WATT | | Wed Sep 14 1988 13:52 | 14 |
| Do whichever is less work. If building a fuse and transferring
the tail feathers and other whole and undamaged parts is not too
much more work, then you will have a 'new' fuse when you are done.
I flew Kay's Aeromaster a little and I also have one (with the
two big wings), but I didn't really get a chance to really see the
difference in wings. I think I would build the small wings like
Kay did if I were do build another one. My Aeromaster rolls a little
slow even with the maximum deflection I can get. I am now flying
mine with a .91 Surpass 4-stroke on it and it really performs.
I flew it with a Supertigre 61 2-stroke for a while and then converted
it over to the 4-stroke.
Charlie
|
| 1144.4 | HUH?? | CTD024::TAVARES | John -- Stay low, keep moving | Mon Nov 06 1989 17:14 | 4 |
| I think you guys have been sniffing too much Balsarite and MEK --
what does your answers have to do with repairing tailfeathers?
|
| 1144.5 | Here's an answer | CURIE::ANKER | Anker Berg-Sonne | Mon Nov 06 1989 17:18 | 18 |
| Re: <<< Note 1144.4 by CTD024::TAVARES "John -- Stay low, keep moving" >>>
When I got tired of the same thing happening all the time
to my SIG Riser, I simply drilled two holes into the two elevator
halves and inserted a piece of wire bent into a square U. I was
able to insert it without detaching the tailfeathers and it works
a whole lot better because of its slight springiness.
_
/ |
_----____/==|
/__====-------
|-
/
/
Hang in there!
Anker
|
| 1144.6 | ENGAGE EYEBALLS BEFORE PROCEEDING..... :B^) | PNO::CASEYA | THE DESERT RAT (I-RC-AV8) | Mon Nov 06 1989 17:45 | 24 |
| Re: .4, John,
Look at the dates of the replie, amigo, then go back an read the base
note...Jeff copied some _old_ repair suggestions into this new topic.
Jeff,
I'd also though of what Anker suggested, using a piece of music wire to
rejoin the elevator halves. If you can't flex the elevators enough
up-or-down to drill into them from the hinge line, you could cut a
narrow slot, bury the wire in the slot then fill with balloons and
touch-up. Orrrrrrr........
Did you say the elevators were originally joined with a piece of dowel?
If so, you might be able to trim the dowels back to stubs short enough
to be able to telescope a piece of brass tubing over them with plenty
of CYA or epoxy. Don't trust it? Then drill a tiny hole through the
tubing, dowel, et al and pin it together for security.
|
| | 00 Adios, Al
|_|_| ( >o
| Z__(O_\_ (The Desert Rat)
|
| 1144.7 | | VTFARM::SOUTIERE | | Tue Nov 07 1989 12:16 | 9 |
| Anker,
Are you inserting the U-shaped wire on the back-side
of the elevator?
I've presently got the split-elevator set up on my
Chipmunk and one side is a bit loose and I don't want to un-hinge
the elevator to fix it.
Ken
|
| 1144.8 | | CURIE::ANKER | Anker Berg-Sonne | Tue Nov 07 1989 13:07 | 22 |
| Re: <<< Note 1144.7 by VTFARM::SOUTIERE >>>
Ken,
No, the idea is to insert it at the front of the
elevator, right up against the bertical and horizontal stabs. If
you are able to bend the elevator close to a 90 degree angle it
should be possible, with some swearing, to drill the holes and
insert the wire. Inserting from the back is an intersting idea I
hadn't thought of. I can't see what wouldforce the elevators to
move together in that setup, however.
_
/ |
_----____/==|
/__====-------
|-
/
/
Hang in there!
Anker
|
| 1144.9 | fiberglass and ca | DACT42::BDONAGHY | | Tue Nov 07 1989 14:34 | 12 |
| How about wrapping some thin stips of fiberglass around the dowel
(wrap it around the break. if it broke in the middle )
and using thin ca glue to make it permanent. The fiberglass comes
in strips that are 1/2 to 1 1/2 in wide and three feet long. Cost
about $1.50 . You just cut it with sissors , a dab of ca will keep
the ends from fraying. Wrap it around and hold in place with your
fingers that are inside a plastic sandwich bag (your fingers) and
thin ca it. ten seconds later , solid as a rock. Epoxy thined with
rubbing alcohol works ok , messier and takes longer to dry.
Bob in Phila.
|
| 1144.10 | Loose paper in cockpit problem | K::FISHER | Stop and Smell the Balsa! | Tue Nov 07 1989 14:56 | 18 |
| Interesting subject - OK - picture this.
My Aeromaster has a Canopy that after I put it in
place it completely sealed the cockpit.
My instrument panel was composed of a LN03 file
that I cut and glued to the fire wall with rubber
cement. Worked fine for over a year. Now my instrument
panel is floating around the cockpit.
I really don't want to cut my way in and certainly don't
want to re-paint anything. How do I get the paper
back in position and glued down? If it ain't easy
I won't do it!
Bye --+--
Kay R. Fisher |
---------------O---------------
################################################################################
|
| 1144.11 | Inst. panel fix? | ROCK::MINER | Electric = No more glow-glop | Wed Nov 15 1989 17:57 | 20 |
| RE: Note 1144.10 by K::FISHER "Stop and Smell the Balsa!"
>> -< Loose paper in cockpit problem >-
How about this:
Poke a small hole in the blasa that was used as the base for the
instrument panel. Then, move the fuse around until the paper is in
the correct position and then squirt a drop of CA or "Elmers" glue
in through the hole in the balsa.
_____
| \
| \ Silent POWER!
_ ___________ _________ | Happy Landings!
| \ | | | | |
|--------|- SANYO + ]-| ASTRO |--| - Dan Miner
|_/ |___________| |_________| |
| / | " The Earth needs more OZONE,
| / not Caster Oil!! "
|_____/
|