T.R | Title | User | Personal Name | Date | Lines |
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703.1 | This is worth much less than 2�... | LEDS::ZAYAS | | Mon Sep 19 1988 20:28 | 5 |
|
I've never used one, but the people I've seen use them have
always had trouble. I'd suggest running a 3rd line into the tank
for filling and plug it when not it use. Just leave the end of
this 3rd line handy at the bottom or side of the cowl.
|
703.2 | fuel valves/fuelers | BTO::BREAULT_B | | Mon Sep 19 1988 21:23 | 11 |
| Thats what I'd always done in the past and never had a problem.
I just thought I'd try and get fancy this time. You know, a new
gadget to try out. Don't all R/C's have gadgetitis?
I always figured those things were mainly just another place for
potential problems, ie; air leaks, fuel leaks ect; but I thought
I'd ask for advise from the noters in this file so I wouldn't be
wasting my time and money.
You gotta admit they look like a pretty neat gadget! Right?
Bernie
|
703.3 | they work ok | RICKS::KLADD | | Tue Sep 20 1988 10:07 | 15 |
| i recently put a dubro kwik filler in my jug. to keep line from
tank to carb as short as possible, i use a 3rd line like you
mentioned and pluged the other fitting on the filler. works good,
only problem is theres a little resistance and my 6-shooter pump
has a little difficulty pushing fuel thru. electric pump will be
just the ticket.
i also use another fueler on my cap. dont remember who makes it
but its black and teardrop shaped. i only run the normal 2 lines
cause the valve is "on the way to the carb". it works good but
can be tricky, if you open the valve ALL THE WAY, it shuts off.
hafta find the sweet spot and remember where it is. works good
otherwise.
kevin
|
703.5 | | VTMADE::SOUTIERE | | Tue Sep 20 1988 10:37 | 15 |
|
Well, I guess that answers my question about fuel fillers!
I was getting ready to order the Dubro "Kwik Fill" for my Super
Chipmunk. Guess I'll use the old third line and plug routine,
at least I know it works.
What I do is glue a piece of brass tubing through the fuse.
I then glue the third line to the tubing. On the outside of the
fuse you will only see about 1/4" of brass tubing sticking out.
I plug this by using a little plastic cap that you can buy at any
Radio Shack. They are mainly used on tiny toggle switches and
come in a variety of colors. It fits very snug and works great!
When in place, its all you will see sticking out of the plane.
Ken
|
703.7 | fuel filler/fueler | BTO::BREAULT_B | | Tue Sep 20 1988 16:57 | 11 |
| Thanks for help on this one. I've decided to save a few bucks on
this one and go the route Ken describes he uses.
I guess this goes to show that old ways are still sometimes the
best.
Neat idea Ken. You should send it into "FOR WHAT ITS WORTH" in
RCM mag. Thats one I've never seen. I to am gonna try it.
Bernie
|
703.8 | | VTMADE::SOUTIERE | | Wed Sep 21 1988 08:47 | 4 |
| Geesh guys, you're making my head swell! Isn't it amazing what
you can come up with when you're lazy!!!
Ken
|
703.9 | Siphoning problem? | CLOSUS::TAVARES | Oh yeah, life goes on... | Wed Sep 21 1988 11:17 | 9 |
| Does the filler tube to the outside of the plane have to be located
above the highest point of the tank to prevent siphoning? And the
other end of the tube, inside the tank, does it have to be located
as low as possible?
Also, it would be trick to put the filler tube into the tank at the
rear and run the tube up to a fake "scale" filler, or some other
disguised airplane part...anybody had experience with gluing into
the plastic that the tank is made of?
|
703.10 | No problem...... | VTMADE::SOUTIERE | | Wed Sep 21 1988 13:38 | 59 |
|
RE: < Does the filler tube to the outside of the plane have to be located
< above the highest point of the tank to prevent siphoning?
Yes, unless you have some sort of check valve installed to prevent
the fuel from flowing out. Since I have no check valve, my filler
tube comes out of the fuse at a higher point in reference to the
filler tube in the tank itself. However if you decided to put the
inlet below the tank level, you would only lose fuel when you remove
the fill hose and when you put your cap on. The cap fits snug and
doesn't vibrate off during flight. (At least mine hasn't yet!)
RE: < And the other end of the tube, inside the tank, does it have to be
< located as low as possible?
No! The filler tube extends about 1/4" to 1/2" inside the tank.
RE: < Also, it would be trick to put the filler tube into the tank at the
< rear and run the tube up to a fake "scale" filler, or some other
< disguised airplane part...anybody had experience with gluing into
< the plastic that the tank is made of?
Are you talking about putting a hole in the tank and gluing a filler
tube into it? There's no need to go to that extreme. All you have
to do is run your filler line from the tank to what ever location on
the fuse that you desire. I have about 5" of tubing between the tank
and the fuse (so I don't get kinks in the line). You shouldn't have
any problem pumping fuel through a fair amount of tubing, especially
using an electric pump.
This is my set up in my Eaglet!
| |---------| |
| | fuel | |
| | tank | |
| | | | <- fuse
| | | |
| | | |
top view | | ------- | |
| | | 1 2 | | |
| | | |3 | | | 1 = filler tube
| | --|---- | | 2 = muffler tube
| |___|_____| | 3 = carburator tube
| | |
| | |
| | |
| |__________ <- inlet
| |
|________________|
-----------------
engine
compartment
Hope this isn't confusing.
Ken
|
703.11 | How to drain? | K::FISHER | There's a whale in the groove! | Wed Sep 21 1988 13:59 | 17 |
| The interesting thing about a filler tube only going to the center of
the tank is that it can't suck fuel below that point. So how do you
remove fuel at the end of the day. On my Aeromaster I set it up just
as you describe (only the fill goes out the bottom of the fuse and I
put a screw in it when flying). In order to remove fuel at the end
of the day I have to flip the Aeromaster on its back and suck fuel out
the muffler pressure line cause that goes to the top of the tank (now
the bottom).
Seems like you would also want a klunk on the fill line but they
would probably get tangled up. Is there some simple correct way
to do this?
Bye --+--
Kay R. Fisher |
---------------O---------------
================================================================================
|
703.12 | | WRASSE::FRIEDRICHS | Planned Insanity | Wed Sep 21 1988 14:22 | 8 |
| To drain you simply tip the plane forward. No, you will not get
all of the fuel out, but that's true of any setup.
When I use this setup, I only extend the tube to just inside the
plug. There is no reason for the brass tube to go any further...
jeff
|
703.13 | Maybe this will work??? | RICKS::MINER | Electric = No more glow-glop | Wed Sep 21 1988 15:33 | 28 |
| I think I've got an idea that extends this idea and fixes Kay's
pumping-out-at-the-end-of-the-day problem.
Just use a normal "2 line" tank with the normal klunk in the tank.
Then just put a "T" connector in the carburator line and attach the
fill tube to this. (I think Robart sells plastic "T" connectors.)
NOTE: In the following crude drawing, the filler tube goes down.
Actually, this would go up and above the tank as was discussed.
__________
| |
Tank | ================= < From Muffler
| ========T====== > To Carb.
| Klunk / | |
|======/ | |
|__________| =========] Filler tube with cap
_____
| \
| \ Silent POWER!
_ ___________ _________ | Happy Landings!
| \ | | | | |
|--------|- SANYO + ]-| ASTRO |--| - Dan Miner
|_/ |___________| |_________| |
| / | " The Earth needs more OZONE,
| / not Caster Oil!! "
|_____/
|
703.14 | this worked for me | LEDS::HUGHES | Dave Hughes (LEDS::HUGHES) NKS-1/E3 291-7214 | Thu Sep 22 1988 11:19 | 17 |
|
I have used a 3 tube system: Carb, muffler, and filler.
The filler tube must be sealed during flight or you'll lose the
pressurization from the muffler tap. Since you're sealing it,
it can be routed anywhere (doesn't have to be above the tank).
Sullivan tanks are designed to take up to three tubes, so no
modifications to those tanks are necessary.
I used a shortened klunk to get the filler tube to the bottom of
the tank for de-fueling. The filler tube came out the bottom of
the cowl, and I used a spare brass pushrod fitting (the ones you
can solder onto a braided pushrod to get threads for a clevis)
as a plug for the filler. Worked great on my Kadet.
Dave
|
703.15 | AT LEAST ONE VOTE "FOR" FUEL-VALVES.... | PNO::CASEYA | THE DESERT RAT (I-RC-AV8) | Wed Sep 28 1988 12:38 | 39 |
| In defense of fuel filler-valves, I've used an older style one from
Robart in the ol' Yeller Peril for 6-7 years with no problem
whatsoever. This is molded in red plastic and has a rotating type
valve which is turned approx. 40-degrees to fill/defuel, then returned
to the original position to run. In the fill/defuel mode, the valve
interrupts the clunk-to-carb line, isolating the carb from the fill
circuit. all tank/engine/muffler connections are routed through this
valve so it looks a little snakey in the engine compartment but works
just fine....never had a problem.
I use a Du Bro Kwik-Fill fuel valve on the MiG-3, flush-mounted
in the bottom of the engine/tank-compartment hatch where it's all
but invisible. This valve has only two connections and is installed
in the clunk-to-carb line. A special fitting/nozzle is attached
to the fill-line from yer' fuel pump; when this fitting is inserted
into the valve, it automatically shuts off the line to the carb
so incoming fuel can _only_ be delivered to the tank...this is an
important asset when dealing with an inverted engine installation
such as the MiG's. I've run this valve in the MiG for nearly 5-years
with absolutely satisfactory results...not one problem with it,
period!
Both of the valves described make defueling a breeze, just hook
up and reverse yer' pump. Since the valves are connected directly
to the clunk, you can suck the tank as nearly dry as is possible.
It should be mentioned that both of these valves are intended for
glo-fuel _only_, no gasoline or diesel.
While I also tend to echo those who encourage simplicity and consider
most gadgets 'just-another-place-for-a-potential-problem,' I've
been totally satisfied with the two fuel-valves mentioned above
and plan to continue their use 'til such time as they cause a problem.
They sure clean-up and simplify the fueling operation.
|
| | 00 Adios, Al
|_|_| ( >o
| Z__(O_\_ (The Desert Rat)
|
703.16 | BETTER ISOLATE THAT CARB.....!! | PNO::CASEYA | THE DESERT RAT (I-RC-AV8) | Wed Sep 28 1988 12:46 | 18 |
| Re: .13, Dan,
The 'T' fitting installation you suggest will work _BUT_ you'd better
pinch off the line to the carb with a hemostat or equivalent while
fueling. Like electricity, fuel will follow the path of least
resistance and I can guarantee you'll pump as much or more fuel
into the engine as you do into the tank, at least 'til the crankcase
is full...this is 'especially' critical with an inverted engine.
That's what I like about the Du Bro Kwik-Fill; it isolates the carb
from the incoming fuel, eliminating the possibility of flooding the
engine while fueling.
|
| | 00 Adios, Al
|_|_| ( >o
| Z__(O_\_ (The Desert Rat)
|
703.17 | Dubro Kwik Fill GAS and GLO | CSC32::M_ANTRY | | Thu Sep 29 1988 01:21 | 6 |
| I have the dubro Kwik fill on my 1/4 scale GAS powered plane for
both Smoke Oil and Gas. They do make both glo or Gas versions of
it and I think they are just great. I have had mine stick in the
in position when you pull the filler plug out but a quick wiggle
freed it.
|
703.18 | kwik fill are a nono for me!! | BZERKR::DUFRESNE | VAXKLR - You make'em, I break'em | Thu Sep 29 1988 11:07 | 8 |
| MY dubro kwik fill has been nothing but trouble.. It jams either
open or doesn't close properly, resulting in poor fuel flow to carb..
(and a balky engine)
I think I like the quick fill described by Al for his Yellow Peril.
Now, what is the brand for that sucker ?
md
|
703.19 | IT MAY BE HARD TO FIND...... | PNO::CASEYA | THE DESERT RAT (I-RC-AV8) | Thu Sep 29 1988 11:20 | 23 |
| Marc,
I'm pretty sure the valve used in the Yeller Peril came from Robart,
however, I'm not sure it's available anymore. I haven't seen it
advertised in quite some time. You just might find one hanging
on the dusty back shelf of some hobby shop though. It's basically
a round/cylindrical shaped affair with a square mounting bezel with
four mounting holes (one at each corner) at the front. Four
fuel-tubing nipples emanate from the backside of the cylinder. As
I mentioned before, it's molded in RED plastic so it shouldn't be
hard to spot, should you run onto one.
I'm amazed that so many have had problems with the DuBro Quik-Fill
valve. Mine has bee absolutely flawless and I know of several modelers
who are using them with complete success. Even our own Chuck Collier
(who could break an anvil, given the chance) uses this valve
successfully. Maybe we're just lucky.................??
|
| | 00 Adios, Al
|_|_| ( >o
| Z__(O_\_ (The Desert Rat)
|
703.20 | Tower has it (maybe)... | IDO725::MCKEE | We have the technology... | Thu Sep 29 1988 11:36 | 13 |
|
Tower Hobbies has the Robart fueler listed in their catalog.
Robart Ultra Fueler ROBQ1205 $3.80
They also show the Dubro fueler in both gas and glo versions.
Dubro Kwik-fill DUBQ0650 $8.50
Dubro Kwik-fill (Gas) DUBQ0655 $9.50
Jim
|