Conference terri::cars_uk

    Could the heater control levers be moving but not doing anything ie
    have the cables detached themselves from the control levers?

A pipe comes out of the top of the radiator and into a heating matrix (ie a 
small radiator) set in the bulkhead (sorry can't remember where).  It may go
via the carb as part of the automatic choke set-up.  Behind the heating matrix
is a little flap, this opens and closes as you move your heater controls.  So,
it is either not moving or is moving and the matrix is not getting hot.  I
suppose that the fan might have stopped working, however, these are so noisy
that you would have noticed.

To test for either of the above problems, remove the fan.  It's held in by 
3 self tapping screws.  Have someone sit in the car and waggle the temperature
control, if the flap, which is on the right of the small matrix as you look 
towards the back of the car, isn't moving then the control cable has slipped
off or broken.  If the flap is working then, is the heating matrix getting
hot?  Just put your hand on it - if it is cold, then there's an air lock.  

If the car is running warm, then hot water should be going to the heater matrix,
there's no seperate thermostat for it.

Dave

PS If you ever decide to break your car, I can make you a good offer on your
rear axle. 

    
    Well, the levers work, the air warms up _somewhat_, but hot, it ain't. 
    
    The fan works....I replaced it only a year or so ago 'cos the other one
    started rattling.
    
    How would I get rid of an air lock?
    
    	- Andy

    I had one of these cars/problems. The heaters dead easy, under the
    bonnet, near the passenger side hinge the heater is located. Easy to
    see, it's a big black unit, with two pipes going in. The matrix comes
    out by undoing the clips on both pipes, removing about two screws, and
    it slides out into the enginer compartment. 
    
    Now on mine, it had all furred up inside. I got some radflush, made up
    a solution and poured it into the assembly (lying on it's back, pipes
    pointing skyward. Left it for several hours, reverse flushed it (make a
    note of flow and return connections) with a hose from the cold water
    tap. Repeated. 
    
    Eventually got a beatiful hot flow out of it.
    
    Richard 
    
    p.s. if you want to leave it soak, connect a bit of hose between the
    feed pipes, and you can use the car!

    Thanks, that'll do the trick, I'm sure.
    
    	- Andy

    
    When re-filling the cooling system you should first make sure that
    the heating fan is on (as far to the right as poss) and that the
    heat lever is on the red.
    
    Then start the engine with about 2000 rpm and THEN fill the cooling
    system. After about 5 minutes drop the revs down to about 1500 rpm.
    Leave the fan blowing and the heater on hot and top up the cooling
    system as needed. Leave the rad cap off of course.
    
    After about 15 mins you should be OK.
    
    Jeff.
    

    WELL...I'd like to continue this little chat about mark v cortina's...
    
    I think cortina's are excellent cars, cheap, comfortable and easy
    to maintain...(agree?).....
    
    I also have problems with my cooling system and at the moment replacing
    a leaking radiator...but before hand my heater didn't produce any
    heat what so ever.....unfortunately couldn't afford a brand new
    one ..so.. i obtained a capri one...fits ok (with a capri bottom
    hose)......i haven't tried any of the previous comments made but
    i'm sure i will (when time becomes available...)....
    
    Also, to add, I would like to do a few things to make my cortina
    a little special...ie: lower 2 inches...if possible (depending on
    cost)...put some nice alloy wheels (with low profiles)...but nothing
    over the top...
    
    Its only a 1.6L but i have made this car very smart...no rust believe
    it or not....there's only one other thing and thats a noisy rear
    axle....
    
    I have a twin choke weber to put on it (with manifold)...would this
    make a lot of difference...(speed)(fuel economy) etc....or does
    anyone have any suggestions on making it go that little faster
    But plse consider cost as the twin choke only cost 15 pounds...
    
                  craig...
    
                      
    
    

	See notes elsewhere, but here goes:...

	1.   Let the engine breath.  A better carb and a better 
	exhaust manifold really help.  The exhaust particularly, however
	that'll set you back 70/80 pounds (Janspeed are good).

	2.   Electronic ignition makes things smoother, better fuel economy
	and more grunt.  Another 80 pounds blown.

	3.   Electric fan, lets the engine warm up more quickly and gives you
	a bit more grunt (no power drain most of the time).  Another 80 or
	so gone.

	4.   Better handling?  Tricky this.  Try replacing the void bushes
	at the back with solid ones.  Pretty cheap this, they're not much.
	Even better, fit adjustable shocks (ie harder), about 20 pounds a 
	shock.

	Really, the problem is that the 'tina is a heavy car and the 1600 isn't
	that powerful an engine (I presume you mean the OHC, the OHV is even
	weaker).  The GT is a much better bet.  Also, the front axle set up is
	almost designed to wallow and there's not much that you can do about
	that.

    
    Thanks for the help there 981.9
    
    Much appreciated...
    
    Can you tell me where else in notes I could find out more detailed
    info...
    
    changing the subject...
    
    I have an offer of swapping my MKV CORTINA X 1981 FOR AN OLD "C"
    REG MK1 WITH 1.6 CROSSFLOW ENGINE...
    
    Its been customised inside (excellent job..i must say) and the outside
    is all original...all it needs is a good respray...all other aspects
    are good...(the floor and chassis is solid....
    
    Would this be a good swap...?
    
    Do you think it would be a good investment..?
    
    and how hard are parts to find...?
    
    craig...
    
    
    
    

    
    If you really want a Cortina to go faster, there's no substitute
    for a bigger engine. Since the 2.3 V6 was fitted the 2.8/2.9 should
    also fit without too much trouble and a 2.8 should be FAIRLY easy to
    pick up secondhand too. 
    
    People I know who've had the 2.3 Cortina say that it is a good engine
    (not a lot of power, but more torque than the 2.0) and a 2.8 would be 
    a real pleasure.
    
    There used to be a Savage Cortina with the 3.0 V6 Essex (and also a 
    5 litre Mustang engined Capri!), which had quite a reputation as a 
    Q-car.
    
    All of Dave's suggestions are good for improving the power of the 1.6,
    but it'll never burn rubber unless you carry out some radical tuning
    and then you'll need to rebuild the engine every few thousand miles.
    
    BTW I agree that the Mk V was a nice looking saloon (why they replaced
    it with a jelly-mould with portholes for windows I'll never understand!).
    
    Mark

>>    I have an offer of swapping my MKV CORTINA X 1981 FOR AN OLD "C"
>>    REG MK1 WITH 1.6 CROSSFLOW ENGINE...


take a look at this months CAR magazine; its got a guide on buying 'classic'
cortinas; some of which were worth a surprising amount of money



...art

    Go for the old MK 1, it has a lot more class.

    If it is heavily modified, I don't suspect it will be worth in
    financial terms as much as an unmodified one. But then again, 
    you could always consider 'classic rallying' in it ...

  Mark

    
    
    re: mk1 cortina's
    
    When I first saw the mk1 i thought it was a really ugly car...but
    it seemed to grow on me....
    
    The person i'm buying it off has another two...on he is restoring
    and the other is rally prepared (for use in the classic rally's)
    
    That looks tremendous but he had lots of money to spend...which
    i don't have...
    
    It still has all original parts on the outside but the door panels
    have been done in black vinyl..but it has a 1500 GT dash and centre
    console....
    
    BUT..I'm sure it'll be good fun doing little bits of restoration
    every now and again to bring it up to scratch....
    
    The only other let down is it has all the door and rear windows
    in black perspex....it has weller wheels...preferably i'd like the
    mini-lites on it...its been lowered.. 
    
    so...could be worth thinking about...
    
    craig...
    
    
    

    
    Re The Mk1
    
    Unless you've got money to spend and want a car which is BOUND to be
    trouble at some time, avoid it like the plague.
    
    A modified Mk1 isn't going to be worth much (unless you discover it 
    used to be a Lotus Cortina and then you've only just started), and any
    car that age is going to have problems lurking.
    
    If you have the time and money to get it back into original spec and 
    get the mechanics up to A1 condition then go for it, but if not, you'll
    just end up with a very old car.
    
    Mark

    
    
    I was worried about that...cause i'd have to use it to go back and
    forth to work..and home to birmingham
    
    And I only know basic car mech's....so...i'm umming and arghing...
    
    craig...
    
    
    

    I drove a '62 Anglia as my normal form of transport for several
    years. At the time (1981) my girlfirend had a 1978 Fiesta 1.3 Ghia.

    Of the two cars, the Anglia was by far the more reliable. Old technology
    winning out ...

    We even used the Anglia to tour europe on two occasions !!!

    Old Fords are not that much trouble. The main problem is body rot, but
    you say that the body is in good condition on the Mk I. Mechanical parts
    are also easy to come by, and the cars are really easy to work on.

    In terms of reliability, I wouldn't expect to see a lot of difference
    between the two cars, after all, an X reg Cortina is not exactly a spring
    chicken itself, is it ...

 Mark

    
    I'd hardly say being more reliable than a Fiesta 1.3 Ghia was a 
    recommendation! (From experience :^()
    
    Also remember that you are talking about a car which is now 28 years
    old! Mechanically they may be easy to fix, but getting the parts may not 
    be so easy on demand. This would obviously be a factor if the car is
    to be used as day-to-day transport with no backup.
    
    Also, if you think it's difficult keeping a 10 year old car in good
    nick structurally, you can increase that by an order of magnitude for
    a 30 year old car, with inferior paint work and rust protection (the
    metal may be thicker but the rust can get at it easier).
    
    Mark

    
    
    Thanks for the info ...
    
    I just wanted a little advise before jumping into something I may
    regret...so...Its time to make a final decision...
    
    About my radiator....I have just had a bit of bad luck...hee hee
    (but i wasn't laughing earlier this morning....
    
    I finished putting on my radiator after a long ordeal...I took off
    the hose that fits onto the water pump...and it was so old I spent
    a few hours trying to fit it on using all kinds of lubrication...
    
    BUT....I gave up...so...the next day i bought a capri hose which
    fitted ok and then replaced the alternator...(which i took off to
    give me more room....)...whilst fitting it on two nights ago, I
    dropped one of the locking nuts down the drain...(it now sounds
    as if I'm a blooming plonker..)...so yesterday I replaced that and
    this morning I started up the car and filled the radiator with
    water...and I found the reconditioned one I had spent 3 days trying
    to fit had a bigger leak than the one I took off.....
    
    ARRRRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHHHHH !!!!!!
    
    NO SYMPATHY PLEASE...
    
    My own fault...
    
    craig..
    

    
    When I've sorted out the rad problem...
    
    I have the heater problem...and what do you suggest I try first
    before taking out the matrix and flushing it..?
    
    
    craig...
    

Check the heater control cables from the sliders on the dashboard are
operating the heater properly: if on'e come adrift, the "vanes" in the heater
could be permanently shut, or set to "arctic blast".

Check the air inlet to the heater isn't blocked up with twigs/leaves, etc.

Check the heater hoses (the long ones that seem to wrap round the engine three
or four times then disappear without trace!) aren't kinked or blockes, and that
they are connected properly.

Check there are no airlocks: not sure how you're supposed to do this, but try
disconnecting the top heater hose, and pouring water in until it's full, then
re-connect it.

Try "Radflush" on the whole system before taking the matrix out.

Scott

    Make sure that there isn't an airlock in the system? Might just be that
    you're not getting any hot air from the heater 'cos the hot water ain't
    getting to it....... 

    oops.... got beaten to the obvious by .22             ..... ;^)

    
    
    I have checked the control arms for the heater in the car and they
    are all ok...and also i have tried getting any air locks out but
    its still the same....
    
    There is a correct amount of air coming out.....so...if it is blocked
    with twigs/leaves would there still be air coming out ?
    
    cause i can't understand whether twigs/leaves would stop just the
    hot air coming out.?
    
    
    craig..
    
    
    

    Way back when... I had a Mk4 cortina with heater problems. The heater
    matrix is under the bonnet, held in by 2 screws - dead easy. 
    
    Get a bit of pipe, take the two heater hoses off and fit the pipe to
    regain circulation. Then take out the matrix and at your leisure flush
    it through. I reverse flushed it with a hose from the tap, then left it
    standing on it's back, filled with RADflush for 24 hours, then reverse
    flushed it again.
    
    Eventually I put it back in and it was BRILLIANT!.
    
    Richard

    
    Here is how to ensure that you reduce the risk of
    air locks when re-filling the cooling system.
    
    First of all, before you start the engine, make sure that the
    heater controls are on hot and the airways are open. Directed
    to the wind screen or the footwells, either way will do.
    
    Make sure the switch for the blower is on full. 
    
    Then start the engine and make sure the revs are around the 2500
    mark.
    
    SLOWLY pour in the corrrect amount of water/anti freeze mix until
    the fluid level is about � inch below the radiator neck. If your
    thermostat is working correctly then you won't be able to get
    all that much fluid in to begin with.
    
    Wait for the thermostat to open. The water level will drop when
    this happens so pour in (SLOWLY) some more fluid.
    
    Drop the revs down to about 2000 but keep the heater on at full blast.
    
    You'll see lost of air coming out so leave the rad cap off and keep
    topping up as needed. Check the engine temp, it should be normal.
    
    A method to help with expelling air is to gently squeeze the top and
    bottom rad hoses.
    
    It should become obvious that there is no more air to be expelled
    so a final top up and then replace the rad cap. The inside of the
    car should be hot as well due to the heater.
    
     ********************************************************
    
    If you heater still does not work then a reverse flush of the
    cooling system sometimes helps. Failing that you'll need to take
    it out and replace it or otherwise. As mentioned in a previous
    note, check that the heater controls operate correctly.
    
    
    Jeff.
     
    
    

    
    
    thank for your help .26 and .27
    
    One more question....If the matrix was leaking in anyway...would
    it cause water to come in under the bulk head...cause just recently
    some water has been appearing on the n/s front floor...(the same
    side as the matrix...)
    
    
    craig...

�    Make sure the switch for the blower is on full. 
    
    That is [usually] an electric fan - what difference will that make ?
    
    
�    SLOWLY pour in the corrrect amount of water/anti freeze mix until
�    the fluid level is about � inch below the radiator neck. If your
�    thermostat is working correctly then you won't be able to get
�    all that much fluid in to begin with.
    
    Do you expect this guy to start an engine with no water in it !
    
    The thermostat would not operate until the water with which it
    has contact is at the required temperature (somewhere about 9O
    degrees C - I think).  If you have 'hot air' on the other side
    of the thermostat, it will have very little effect (until too late).
    Basically, do not 'run' your engine with no coolant in the system.
    
    Of the advice regarding air-locks etc, in these replies, there are
    a couple of points that should be considered.
    
    One rule when filling a cooling system, the heater controls should be
    set onto the 'hot' setting - this usually opens a valve to allow
    water flow through the heater matrix.  If you do not open this, then
    you are quite likely to get an air lock.
    
    If any component of your cooling system is not functioning correctly,
    it is often a good idea to 'flush' this component.  It would be quite
    acceptable to 'short circuit' the heater matrix with a simple hose to
    allow you to work on this component, whilst still allowing the engine
    to run with an adequate cooling system.
    
    The coolant should comprise the specified ratio of anti-freeze, as this
    usually provides 'anti-corrosion' properties as well (very important if
    you have an engine with an alloy head/block).
    
    
    If you do not get 'hot' air through your ventilation system, do not
    automatically assume that the heater matrix is at fault.  As has been
    suggested, airflow could be causing the problem, or water flow through
    the hoses which comprise the cooling system (and the heater).
    
    J.R.
    
    	whatever you do, don't overheat the engine whilst waiting for
    	the heater to function as you expected...

    On the cortina the heater controls have no affect on the water flow
    through the matrix. It's a continuous flow system, with air diverted to
    or away from it. As the top hose to it is about the highest point in
    the system, you can try JUST fitting it, and with the engine running,
    gently pull it SLIGHTLY off till you get water coming out.
    
    Re water in the foot well: yes it COULD be the matrix leaking, it could
    be other things, e.g. the air inlet into the box has a well at the
    bottom, and a drain hose to flush away rain water. This could get
    blocked by leaves etc over the years.
    
    I remember on my MK3 cortina (which had the same system) the garage I
    bought it off replaced the OHC cam just before selling it to me. Now
    the cam comes out the back of the engine, so there are 2 ways to do
    it!. 1 is head off!. 2 is remove heater duct, cut a hole in the
    bulkhead, and take the cam out through the ashtray/radio aperture!!!!
    Guess which they did!. 
    
    My drive was a steep incline, the first morning I came out, and the
    footwell was full of water up to the door!. They hadn.t covered over
    the hole in the bulkhead, you could see it if you took the ashtray
    out!!! Guess who was ever so annoyed :-)
    
    Richard

    
    WELL...I have a lot of experimenting to do...
    
    I must say the response to this has been fantastic...
    
    Any other buisness anyone would like to continue in this
    conversation..?
    
    because i'd be quite interested...!!
    
    thanks again...(everyone)		
    
    craig..
    
    

    Re: quite a few back (someone mentioned Anglias)
    
    Picture the scene two weeks ago: Parked in a line, Volvo 340, '67
    Anglia, 2nd Volvo 340. The night was freezing and neither Swedish-built
    car would start. Strange considering that the VOLVO should be well used
    to near Arctic conditions. 
    
    What was the Anglia doing in the middle?
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    Being used to jumpstart the Volvos!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1
    
    
    
    
    I'm proud to say that the Anglia is mine and will start first turn
    (literally) no matter how cold the weather.................
    
    
    
    
    Dead chuffed,
    
    Billy

    Re . 33: Volvo 340 is Dutch manufactured; in fact they are 
             originally designed by DAF, before Volvo took over.
    
    Reliability of old Fords:
    I had a Mk1 1500 CC suffering of leaky cooling hoses every other week.
    Worst was the leak was spraying the cooling liquid into the ignition,
    so I came to a standstill immediately.
    Also the car was rusty and the front struds came right through the
    body!
    
    Cheers,
    
    Hans
    
    

    
    
    HI..  
         Well finally I have fixed my heater problem...
    
         I had a tip from a friend and he said use caustic soda...
    
         It worked...Its a pleasure having heat back in the car..And
         when I was getting so used to scrapping the ice on the inside
         of the windows...
    
         Thanks for the advice though everyone...
    
         I have also made a final decision about the mk1 cortina, since
         my relation has decided to drop the price especially for me,
         to a mere 500 pounds !!
    
         I think I'll enjoy this car...Its something different..
         
         Just a little concerned about parts etc...
    
         I'll join the mk1 owners club and that should make my life
         a little easier..
    
         craig..