Conference terri::cars_uk

    re note 544.15:
    
    Could it be Autocavan not Autocaravan you're looking for.  Autocavan
    sell Voltswagon copy parts, and are based in Aldershot, phone number
    27627.
    
    Hope this helps
    
    Carol Levell
    The Crescent, Basingstoke
    

>    sell Voltswagon copy parts, and are based in Aldershot, phone number
         ^^^^^

	Is this Volkswagen's new electric car ?

	Gordon :-)	    

    Has anyone ever bought anything from Autocavan for their Golf ?
    
    (Or know of anyone who has ?)
    
    Rich.

    I haven't bought for a golf from Autocavan, but I have bought quite a
    few bits for Air-cooled Vw's from autocavan, Their range is quite
    large, and quality didn't seem to be too bad either, prices, cheaper
    than VAG, and have more custom/old stock than VAG.
    
    Trouble is, the Farnham branch ina bit fiddly to find!
    Carl.
     

    Too right John !  I couldn't find it.
    
    Give us a hint ?

    I hope this reply is not too late,please forgive me for the delay.
    
    coming along the Hogs back, ( I know it best from this way) from an
    easterly direction, you go past the Hogs back Hotel, carry on untill
    you get to a windey "s" bend, I think you go down a small hill to it,
    After this you come to a narrow piece of the road,with a couple of
    houses/pub, and with a small local garage/petrol station on the left,
    and on the right there is a turning, take this, It is very small and
    winding, you will come to a set of traffic lights(and houses), straight
    accross, and it is about 100/200 yards on your right, but still hardly
    signposted!, it looks a bit like A CARAVAN SITE!, there are usually a
    few beetles sprinkled around the place to guide you!
    
    Good luck, I seem to remember getting lost the first 2 times I went
    there!
    
    Carl.
    
    off

    Maybe the wrong place but....
    
    can anyone recommend a good guide/manual for Golf's. Not GTi's but
    the standard form. I have a Golf Memphis which is a French 'special'
    run, basically standard running gear but different trim. I'd like
    to get a bit more info on the engine and running gear than is provided
    in the owners guide, so that i can fix things myself when necessary,
    but looking around the carb its got more pipes and tubes coming
    off it than an american 'soap' hospital patient 
    
    Back in the old days of running a Ford i'd get a Haynes manual which
    generally seem to explain things in easily understood terms (hit
    nut A with hammer B etc..)
  
    Any suggestions ?

    I don't know which size engine you have, but I have read both HAYNES
    manuals for the MK1 golf.  I think that the manual for the
    smaller (1.1, 1.3) engines is easier to read, as it attempts to
    cover less model variants (blue binder).  However the manual for
    larger engines also covers Scirocos (sp?) and Jettas, also American
    versions of the Golf (with emmision controls) is had a brown binder.

    Rob.

I currently have a GOLF Haynes manual (1.3cl) was what I got it for, it's OK to
use, apart from the Haynes habit of saying "now just unclip the part..." (which
invariably needs a large amount of leverage to remove :-)) it's not too bad.

I think it covers up to "A" registration.   If that's the one you want, I could
lend or sell or come to some other arrangement...with my copy, send me a mail
if you, or anyone else is interested.

J.

    Thanks for both replies, but the car is a '90 model and 1.8 engine.
    At least you've both indorsed my old faith in Haynes.
    
    Cheers
    Tony.

    What cost can I expect to pay for a new clutch to be fitted to my
    1.8 MK1 GTI?  It seems to have trouble biting for a brief second
    under full accelleration when changing up into 3rd (very important on
    B roads for overtaking after a r'bout).

    I would loke to have a go at it, but it's constantly raining/cold/dark
    and I have heard that it can be hard work.
    
    Thanks in advance,
    Rob "who doesn't like being rained on or cold".

    
    Some of these 'one-stop' type places sometimes offer clutches 'fitted
    free' - I've never tried them. - BUT I would check the price they are
    charging for the clutch itself before deciding how 'free' the fitting
    really is! 
    
    Also, I've no idea on the quality of workmanship, but from some of my 
    experiences with exhaust fittings I would approach with caution!
    
    Elaine

    'bound to be #200 plus - my VAG garage charges @25 per hour, and
    all genuine parts are well expensive. 8^(
    
    Rich.

The clutch kit from VAG costs about �100 inc VAT - it's considerably cheaper 
from Autovolks.  If you're not diying, then try them for the job too - I've 
got no personal experience but have heard the odd good report.

The job took me about a day myself, the only hard bit was reinstalling the 
gearbox - getting the clutch centralised exactly enough without the special 
tool.

Mike.

    Are there any 16v owners out there?
    
    Is it true that is is normal for the oil consumption to be high in the
    first 10,000 miles (e.g. 2 litres in 1600 miles). Why??
    
    Nigel

-.1>    Is it true that is is normal for the oil consumption to be high in the
   > first 10,000 miles (e.g. 2 litres in 1600 miles). 
    
    Yes, extremly high oil consumption, especially for the first 2,000
    miles.  I needed to check my oil every 200 - 400 miles with motorway
    trips being the major problem.  This appears to be typical.  Stories of
    the oil level being off the dipstick are not uncommon - I was close.
    
    Having 22,000 on the clock now I only need an occaisonal top-up, do 
    check the level if you do a high speed long run.  I'd better not define 
    what I mean by high speed - if you know what I mean!
    
   > Why??
    
    The engine compartment shouldn't rust, its got a fine coating of oil.
    Why it's built like this, I can't say.

Yes, they do seem to use a lot of oil.  The official answer is that the hard 
piston rings used in the 16V engine need a lot of miles to bed in properly.  
You may or may not choose to believe this.

It is also possible that the extra valve guide oil seals cause more loss and I 
guess it's possible that VW choose to have the engine consume oil (ie wider 
piston to bore tolerances) for some engineering reason.

I expect the oil to get burnt;  if it's sparying over the engine compartment, 
you've got a problem!  What you see is, I think, the protective wax coating.

Mike.

    What is interesting is that VW only "prescribe" the first oil change
    at 15'000 Km, if the piston rings are bedding in, they are loosing
    some of their volume, are they not ? and that 'volume" ends up in
    the oil.
    
    We took my brother's 16v staight from the dealer's to Holland (1200
    Km) and we used about 1.25 litres of oil on the way up, a bit less
    on the way down.
    
    The car now has 13'000 Km and uses much less... (same story as previous
    note).
    
    

    OK, how often should the Oil and Filter be renewed in an 8 valve
    GTI?
    
    What oil filter do you use?  Anything special?  Where can it be
    brought and how much will it hurt my pocket?
    
    What oil do you use?  Any of that synthetic stuff?  How much do
    you pay for the oil?
    
    thanks,
    Robert "who doesn't know when the car had an oil change last, and
    has had it for � year".

    Well, I have the US version 8 valve GTI engine (1.8 liter, 90 hp).  Oil
    and filter ought to be changed every 3k miles, but depending on how
    many rallies I do, it may get changed more often.
    
    I use Castrol GTX 20w50 in the summer and 20w40 in the winter, but I
    recently moved from New Hampshire to Georgia so will probably keep
    20w50 in it year 'round.
    
    Dave

Tha handbook recommends changing the oil every 10000 miles.  I change my oil 
and filter every 5000 miles.  May prevent some damage and only costs about 
12 pounds.  I use VW filters and conventional SG oil, although I am trying VWs 
synthetic at present as I bought it cheap at VW Action.  Usually I buy oil 
(Duckhams) in B&Q as it's cheaper than a filling station. 

Mike.

    You went to VW Action too eh?
    I cant remember seeing that many Golfs, apart from a couple of Demon
    Tweeks jobs!
    
    Carl.

    I've got synthetic in my 8v - it was like that when I bought it
    second-hand. The car uses almost no oil whatsoever, and apart from
    its last service (40,000), I,ve never topped it up !
    
    Probably something wrong !!!
    
    Rich.

8v Golfs don't use oil unless they have a problem - usually worn 
valve guide oil seals at 40-50k miles.

Mike.

I noticed an F reg Golf GTI 16V smoke really badly when pulling away from the
lights.

Seems like they have something in common with XR2's

Mark.

    re .108
    
    	cheers for the good news. Now if only I can get the drifting
    to the left sorted out, and misfiring when cold, and keep my licence
    after the court case, I'd be REALLY HAPPY.
    
    Rich

    (This is really a reply to some quite different note about a Polo,
    but someone asked me to put it here).
    
    To have the valves reshimmed on my 1982 GTi cost me about �25,
    I think, at the Basingstoke VW dealer, whose name I've forgotten.
    But in fact they didn't use any shims, so that might put the
    price up.
    
    	John

    
    Has anyone tried using the Weber "Big Throat" or the Neuspeed Throttle
    Body ? They are supposed to be extra big throttle bodies for the fuel
    injection system and will "increase the hp by 10%". There are even 
    intake manifolds especially machined ported, polished for the Neuspeed
    contraption and will "give an extra 7 - 10 hp". (I saw all these in a
    US car magazine).
    
    Are they suitable for a European spec GTI or GLI ? Do they really work
    ?
    
    
    SH

    What year Golf/Jetta?  For the Mk I versions, the throttle body
    off the Mk II Scirocco is supposed to work just as well.  Trying
    to use a Mk II Golf/Jetta TB on a Mk I car is a bit difficult because
    they've swithed the orientation of the intake manifold, but the
    Scirocco's wasn't.
    
    Also, certain ones from Audi are supposed to work (80, 90 and maybe
    100)
    
    If it's for a Mk II version, I'm not sure, haven't got one to play
    with.
    
    Dave
    
    PS - all this is for US version cars, but I think it should apply
    to Euro spec ones as well.

    It's a Mk I Jetta GLI. Will the throttle body off the Mk II Scirocco
    improve the performance ?
    
    SH

    Let's both try it and see!  I have a Mk I Golf GTI (US spec) and
    I am adding the Mk II Scirocco TB to my list of parts to acquire.
    I'm getting a used Grp A (rally) head for it next week and in addition
    to a lightened flywheel and heavy duty motor mounts, I'm planning
    to fit the TB soon.
    
    Basically what I've told you is what I've been told by a knowledgeable
    source.  I'm going to try it and will let you know what I find out.

    Dave

    
    Can anyone out there tell me the timing, dwell angle and the spark plug
    clearance gap for a 83 European spec Jetta 1 GLI (1588cc). I guess it must
    be the same as the Golf GTI (1588cc). Bought the car without a handbook
    and couldn't find the Haynes manual for the Jetta. Guess they aren't
    very popular out here.
                                               
    Thanks in advance.

    Did you know if the 10amp Indicator Fuse is blown, the green indicator LED 
    in the instrument panel glows.  When you then swich on a turn signal, the
    light goes on permanently and the indicators do not blink.
    
    This took many hours of troubleshooting this past weekend, the fault
    appeared after dismantaling the dash to cure a slight resonance inside.
    
    When I tested the fuse (without removing it from the fuse box), it read
    ok, because I was reading another way through the circuit!
    
    Ah well, I learnt something that day...
    Rob.
    
    p.s. Wonder how much a new VW instrument cluster part would have been
    from the dealers (including the fuel computer, rev counter, etc...) if I had
    actually broken the thing, like I suspected for a good few hours?
    
    p.p.s Did the previous note get a reply elswhere?

    After reading the recnet notes about timing belts breaking, I am
    rethinking changing my timing belt on the Golf.
    
    I phoned the VAG Garage when I bought the car (at 69K miles), and asked
    about timing belt lifetimes.  Their reply was that the belts are very
    reliable and can be left alone.
    
    What have you other VW owners done with yours?
    Cheers,
    Robbie.
    
    p.s. Touch wood!

    not that I own a VW, but my MAZDA gets its' timing belt replaced every
    96,000 km.  It's about the only service I strictly adhere to.  It just
    went through its second change.
    Hope yours dosen't decide to quit soon.
    JP

RE: Timing beltschange on VWs

Check the CARBUFFS notefile on this.  There was just a series of notes in there
about a VW where the belt let go and the valves banged the pistons. The labour
alone was close to US$400. A note this morning said that exhaust valves cost
around $181 *each* here in the US.  A belt change costs around $125 over here. 
It's your car.  You make the decision on how much risk you are willing to
assume. 

Jim

You don't hear much about VW cam belts breaking unlike Fords or Peugeots, but
I did change mine at about 40k mikes when I fixed a head gasket leak.  I was
thinking that it might be time to change it again as the engine has now done
81k miles.  It's an easy if fiddly job on the Golf, the main problem being to
get the three timing marks lined up correctly and keep them that way while
fitting the belt.

Mike.

             <<< DLOACT::APP$DISK:[NOTES$LIBRARY]CARBUFFS.NOTE;1 >>>
                                 -< Carbuffs >-
================================================================================
Note 180.720                         VW Note                          720 of 770
RECYCL::MCBRIDE                                      15 lines  24-JAN-1991 08:07
                      -< Some good news on timing belt  >-
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    I received a call from the dealer (Rick Starr) yesterday with an
    estimate on the timing belt and associated damage.  Bracing myself for
    extremely bad news, I was more than pleasantly surprised at the service
    I received.  I appears the Service Manager contacted VWoA and
    negotiated a parts/labor split.  VWoA agreed to pick up the parts with
    "customer participation on the labor charges".  Considering the plight
    I was/am in with the car firmly out of warranty, and neglecting a 
    maintenance item, I feel pretty good about how this is turning out.  My
    bill has been estimated at $250.00 - $300.00 for the labor.  The parts
    may include a minimum of 8 valves and possibly two pistons.  I don't
    know what this would be but it doesn't appear that I will have to pay
    it.  The funny thing in all of this is I did not whine, whimper, beg or
    cajole the service folks to follow through like this.  
    
    Brian
             <<< DLOACT::APP$DISK:[NOTES$LIBRARY]CARBUFFS.NOTE;1 >>>
                                 -< Carbuffs >-
================================================================================
Note 180.732                         VW Note                          732 of 770
SASE::SZABO "I play just what I feel"                19 lines  25-JAN-1991 12:36
        -< What Bentley says about changing the camshaft drive belt... >-
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    According to my Robert Bentley `Volkswagon Fox Service Manual':
    
    	The [camshaft drive] belt is installed for the life of the engine.
    	However, to guard against unexpected failure, the publisher
    	recommends periodic inspection of the belt, as well as the
    	additional precaution of belt replacement at 60,000 to 70,000
    	miles (96,000 to 120,000 km) or every 4 to 5 years.
    
    I haven't checked my owner's manual yet, but the part about "installed
    for the life of the engine" suggests that VW doesn't consider
    replacement necessary at all.  That's strange, especially since many VW
    owners tend to change them at ~60K mile intervals anyway...
    
    Also, did the VW 1.7L engines also "require" belt changing?  I ask this
    because my Omni 1.7L (VW, basically) engine went 150K miles without any
    belt changings, and still ran beautifully when I sold it...
    
    John 
    

    
    I recently sent off for a 'Variable Interval Chip'.  I have now
    use it for a few weeks and don't know how I lived without it!
    
    It is merely a replacement front wiper relay, which can be plugged in
    where the original came from.  It apparently works with most
    Volkswagens and many other cars.
    
    It's a really cleaver little chap and can provide a delay between
    single sweeps of 2-45 seconds.
    
    You just swich onto the intermittent setting and then back to OFF.  The
    front wipers do a single sweep, then the thing starts timing.  As soon
    as your windscreen is wet enough to require another sweep; swich back
    onto intermittent.
    
    That's it, the sweeps will then be done at that interval.  No squealing
    across a dryish windscreen and no unnecissary wipes.
    
    You can adjust the interval if the rain gets softer or harder by simply 
    repeating the above (OFF, wait, intermittent), it's much more simple 
    than it reads!
    
    It's especially great on the motorway and crawling in traffic.
    
    It is sold through Audi VW Car Magazine and costs �15.
    I will find the address if anyone is interested.
    
    Rob.

    
    Buy a Porsche, variable wipe from 1 - ~60 seconds. (also 3 speeds)
    
    
    Must admit, sounds like a good idea though. What we really need is a
    sensor on the screen, for all wipe modes.

     Wow, what an idea:
     Automatic wipers, lights, seat recognition, engine tuning.
     Bet they can't manage an automatic gearchange though!
     

     Isn't the Maestro the car which tried to chat to you or something?  
     Personally I would go without a lot of drivewr comforts before I would 
     live with that!
     
     
     Now, don't forget to buy those discount advance tickets for GTI 
     International in May, at the Road Research place in Crowthorn.

Re .123 the variable wiper thingy

Sounds really useful, where do I get one/ is it easy to fit?

Kev

     Changing:
     The front wiper relay in the fuse box (under the glove box) takes about 
     30 seconds to find, then allow 1 minute to plug in the new relay in place 
     of the old!
     
     It is actually called a 'Doduco Interval Chip', and is just a very 
     sophisicated relay.  It's sold through Audi Volkswagen Car Magazine.
     
     I ordered mine over the phone using Visa, tel: (05255) 4019
     
     Or the address is:  	Interval Chip
     	  			Autometrix Publications
     	  			Market Chambers, 
     	  			High St.
     	  			Toddington, Dunstable, Beds.
     	  			LU5 6BY
     
     	  	Cheque for �15.49 payable to 'AutoMetrix Publications'.
     
     The guess the relay is the same on MANY other cars as the thing works on:
     Citroen BX, CX, Vauxhall Nova,Astra,Cavalier,Carlton, Senator, 
     Peugeot 205,309, Porsche 928,944, SAAB 900, 9000, Volvo 340, 360
     
     I didn't realise that there are such standards in the car industry!
     
     Now, just don't wish for it to rain when you get it!
     Robert.

     If the pictures in Auto Express are anything to go by...
     
     The old ones will be worth more when the new one is released!
     
     

    �1400.00 to �1850.00 - unfortunately I doubt you'll get better than
    that for any GTi. (with 0% NCB)
    I'm told the CO-OP are good with young drivers, try them and see what 
    you get.
    
    ..Craig  
    

I've got a 5 year old 8V GTi. The exhaust has been replaced - in two stages,
as the different mufflers blew. Both times, I was away from home, and had a VW
garage do the work.

The back box cost me just under �100 - in the UK. the front and mid-section
cost me a further SFr 120 - about �45. A 16V may well cost more - I don't know
- however I can't imagine that it would cost THAT MUCH more!

One thing that you might take note of is running costs. the 8V seems to be 
more reliable. I know of a couple of 16Vs that have pumped oil over the
road...

My 8V has clocked up 130,000 Km (80,000+ miles). I've had for 20 months, and
done 35,000 miles. In that time (apart from 3 services) its had the two 
exhaust parts, 2 new front tyres (about to be replaced after only 18,000 miles)
and new back pads.

     I wouldn't worry too much about the �800, sounds like fiction.  You could 
     get an all stainless steel free-flow (nice sounding) exhaust system for 
     about �150.  That would last.  
     
     By-the way I have read about a design fault in early 16v exhaust 
     downpipes restricting flow.  Was certainly fixed by E reg. 
     
     I haven't driven a 16-valver, but would definitely suggest a think about 
     what you really want.  It's a lot of premium you are paying over the 
     8-valve.  The 16v has more power than the 8v at all engine speeds, but a 
     much more peaked torque curve makes the car feel less able when not 
     driven hard.
     
     A few did do well at the standing � mile at GTI international though!
     
     Best of luck.
     Robert.

the 8v is quite a bit cheaper to insure than the 16v version too.


...art

    Somewhere back in this particular topic the subject of decent shocks
    for the Gti came up.
    
    My Gti 'seems' to roll quite a lot - but then my previous car was a
    Porsche with sports suspension. it has 47k miles on the clock and was
    an company car before I had it (a firm of auditors), so it was
    regularly serviced in terms of engine, but what about the shocks ?
    
    My question:
    
    	Does the team think that it would be worth my while investing in
    	some Konis, or should I go for decent tyres (or perhaps I should
    	go the whole hog and do both) ?
    
    Tony O.
    
    P.S. Fatuous remarks will get the tongue-lashing they deserve    :-)

>    My Gti 'seems' to roll quite a lot - but then my previous car was a

	I would get rid of that god awful towbar that you've got on the back
	of that crate !

	Alex :^)

	PS Your windscreen is knackered !

Tony,

	My recommandation is if the shocks are suspect, then you would be well
advised to change them, as this can have quite a noticable effect on the car.

	Are your current tyres in need of replacement ? If not then my policy is
is to leave them until they are nearing replacement time before wondering about 
what to do replace them with. If they are, then maybe it would be a good idea
to wait till the shocks are replaced (if you do change them) before deciding
whether you need to get a different size tyre. As far as tyres goes, it is a 
good idea to get a decent make, problem is there is still a wide choice !!!!



			 Alan
			~~~~~~

	Better idea ! Keep the shocks and replace the car ! :^)

	Alex

Well, ignoring the comments about getting another car, I have the Bilstein
sports suspension pack on my MKII GTi and have found it very good - basically
different springs & shockers - only problems have been due to reduced ride
height (about 2" lower than the standard GTi) when the tyres can rub the
wheel arches if a pothole is hit at high speed. Now I'm coming up to 100k miles
(December 86 D Reg) and I am thinking about replacing the shock absorbers (the
garage say that they are ok, but the ride doesn't seem as stiff as it used to).

Nigel

Keith,

I was under the impression that the '87 Gti's did NOT have the hardened valve
seats required to run unleaded - does it specifically state in your owners
handbook that you can (or has your local VW garage told you so) ??

I would stay on the safe side and run 4* until you know for definate.....


Nigel

     Hi Keith,
     
     Since D-reg, the 8-valve GTI's have had Digifant Engine Management.
     I understand this has the appropriate knock sensor and can retard 
     ignition timing itself.   
     
     I'd be very surprised if your's didn't have hardened valve seats.
     
     Check with the dealer to be sure though.  Try the VAG dealer in Reading, 
     Royal Berks Motors. Tel. (0734) 666111
     
     There is reported to be a slight difference in performance using 
     unleaded.  You could used 'Super-Green' petrol without the performance 
     loss.
     
     Cheers,
     Robert.
     
     BTW.  My '83 vintage GTI is temporarily on a diet of 4-star until I 
     isolate the cause of some pinking under slight throttle openings.

    >>     <<< Note 544.144 by PAKORA::KCORMACK "The want syndrome sufferer " >>>
>>                       -< VW runs better lead free..... >-
>    Got home and delved out a What Car supplement on which cars can and
>>    can't be run on unleaded. The supplement said you could the Golf on
>>    unleaded. What it didn't say was should I be mixing them. The car runs
>>    much better on unleaded.
    
    The reason for mixing leaded and unleaded is if you don't have hardened
    valve seats (if you don't the higher temperatures of unleaded will burn
    them away). If the car doesn't have hardened seats then it's regarded
    as not suitable and would be identified as such.
    
    These magazines don't just look at the timing, they also look at the
    valve seats. So if it say no, it's completely no, and if it says yes
    it's completely yes, no need to mix (and let's face it, if you can use
    unleaded there shouldn't be any excuse why you don't.)
    
    Richard

    I have an '87 GTI, and run on unleaded all the time no problem.
    Performance seems marginally better with super unleaded. I have
    never put in leaded fuel.

    Advice required on buying a second-hand GTI!
    
    I've heard of an E-reg with 42000 on the clock (it's at a main dealer). 
    The asking price was immediately reduced to �6200 because I will have no 
    trade-in. 
    
    Q1	How much lower could I expect the price to go :-)
    
    Q2	What critical areas should I check on the car?
    
    Q3	Any hints on best-value financing and/or insurance?
    
    Thanks in advance,
    
    Mike

	From a VAG dealership you should expect:

	o A full service history
	o A warranty - probably parts and labour
	o �200 off for cash i.e. not their finance
	o one years road tax

	As its an E-reg check if its '87 or '88. as there were
	a number of changes made at this time. i.e. Wipers on the
	correct side, no half-lights in the side windows, door
	mirrors mounted at the front corners of single panel windows.

	If the car has these modification it is likely to be '88
	and this will help with the re-sale value.

	The car is less than six years old so it will still have its
	paint warranty intact. But make sure you get the garage to
	fixup any scratches or dents as these would invalidate any
	future claims.

	The car should also have is six year roadside recovery plan
	still in action. This gives you the benefits of something like
	the AA or RAC for free for the first six years of the car. This
	is also trasferable when the car is sold.

	I'm half expecting the first Golf that offered these deals to start
	rusting and breaking down on their 6th year anniversaries.

	The rest is down to what it looks and drives like!!!

    thanks Graham,
    
    I couldn't get them down below the �6200 (from �6750), but they *are*
    going to upgrade the Radio/cassette (which will save me a few bob!)
    
    There's a three-month full parts and labour warranty, full service and
    valet, and a promise to beat any bank loan rates for finance.
    
    You're right, I probably could have bought cheaper, but I'm reasonably
    happy with this dealer (Martins of Basingstoke) and feel it's worth
    buying there. (which is more than you can say for most main dealers,
    whatever the make!)
    
    Thanks again,
    
    Mike

    I know you like Golfs Mike, but how many do you need :-)
    
    Are you chucking in the lease scheme or is it a pressie for the mrs ?
    
    Roy

    Christmas is coming early this year for 'er indoors!

Mine's '86, with 90,000 miles on the clock, and running up about 1500 miles
per month.

Things to look out for:

- Seat wear. I've got a big bum, and it is wearing out the side support on 
  the seat. I've put an unsightly patch on it to stop it getting worse.

- Back brake discs (not pads) looking corroded. The Golf doesn't put enough
  wear 'n tear on the back brakes, so oxidation occurs. Mine are badly
  marked - however they work just fine.
.
.
.

Ummm... can't think of anything else that's gone badly wrong. I've replaced
the battery and had a hiccoughing fuel pump that needed replacing, but
that is all. Mechanically, it just goes and goes and goes...

Cheers

Steve

With regard to the VAG Warranty....

In my experience, it's not really worth the paper it's written on.

There's a book that's so loaded with small print of what's not covered by the 
warranty, that it's 2 inches thick.

They don't tell you about this book when they sell you the warranty though, you 
only come across it when you try to claim off it.

    Hi Keith,
    
    thanks for the reply. I wonder what the insurance hit will be for
    young_ish-at-heart folks like me and she! They will probably slap a
    loading factor on our premium because we're old and crumblies!
    
    :-)

re .147
>    Q2	What critical areas should I check on the car?

I should check the exhaust - in my experience, the original exhaust
lasts about 5 years.

>    Q3	Any hints on best-value financing and/or insurance?

The Co-op and Frizell are the cheapest 2 I found this year for insurance.

Carol

	I've got a 1988 VW Golf GTi (8 Valve).

	Yesterday I accelerated in third gear, on a straight section of
	road, to change up to fourth. I did'nt make it to fourth as there
	was a very loud bang from the front of the car.

	To cut a long story short, the front engine mounting broke. I've
	been told by the VAG garage that this is very rare on any of their
	cars, but especially a car that's only done 50,000 miles.

	Anyone have a similar experience?

	Graham

	PS I was very impressed with the VW "On Call" recovery service.

    Graham,
    
    Will VW pay for the dry cleaning?
    
    Rob. 8-)

	No but they are paying for a Hire Car while mine waits for
	the new part. So rare that they don't carry the spare at a
	main dealership repair centre.

	I think this is great service for what is a second hand car
	for me.

	Graham

    A few weeks ago, the battery got flattened on my '87 E-reg (lights left
    on all day) It killed the clock/computer because the car had to be
    jump-started (and I had to program the radio stations back in ).
    
    I eventually 'phoned AUTOVOLKS and they suggested disconnecting the
    battery and re-connecting it saying that sometimes cures it.
    
    I tried it over the weekend and - hey presto ! - I've got my clock and
    ever-so-handy-and-amazingly-ccurate fuel computer back.
    
    It seems that the gradual buildup of charge from a flat battery wasn't
    registered by the clock and so it didn't re-boot itself.
    
    That's the end of this week's handy fact on Golf Gti's

    
    Just after Christmas somebody stuck a screwdriver or something into 
    the Drivers side door lock of my Gti, I think I might of disturbed them
    as the alarm didn't go off and nothing was taken.
     This week it was repaired at Binnies in Epsom, but the trouble is they
    told me they had to replace the whole lock and now I've got one key for 
    the door and one for the ignition !! Is this standard or are they 
    pulling my pilsner ??
    
    Chris

    I had the same thing happen to my Astra and the garage told me I could
    order the same lock IF I knew the lock number.  Luckily I did but the
    lock apparently had to be manufactured specifically!  perhaps thats why
    it took them 9 weeks to get it!!!
    
    	Jon.
    

    
    I don't know if its the case with all makes but with renault you can
    get complete lock sets si everything remains the same.
    
    
    Martin

    
    My wife had the same thing done.  She just had the door skin repaired

    Yup,
    I have had the same done to my MK1 Golf.  I straighened up the metal
    skin and covered with about 10 coats of touch-up paint.
    
    In place of getting the door repaired or replaced you can buy "armour
    plates", which fit on the door under the lock.  The � inch round the
    door handle/lock is covered, there are lugs which stick out inside the door,
    making such entry very difficult.
    
    Apparantly made of miltary spec hardened steel.   I think about �40 a
    pair is the cost advertised in VW/Audi Car.
    
    I haven't bothered, I don't which I would rather have dent out of the
    way; the door skin or the quarter-light glass!
    
    Regards,
    Robert.

    Anyone know when this years VW 'GTI International' takes place at
    the TRRL Crowthorne? Last year was 11/12th May.
    
    -Roy

Roy,
It's tomorrow and Sunday; May 9th and 10th.  9am-5pm both days.

Transport and Road Research Laboratory, Crowthorn, Berkshire.

o Concours d'elegance opens 9.30am on Sunday, entries till 12.30pm.
o The Quarter-Mile sprint will now have 10 classes, I wonder if anyone   
  will have the guts to race a VR6 engined Golf or Corrado?
o VAG (UK) will be providing two new MK3 Golf GTI's for use in the     
  Slalom course.

Aparently, the TRRL will have a new name by now.

Rob.

    Thanks Rob,
    
    -Roy

    Any first-hand comments or opinions on the Mk III GTI, especially
    compared with the Mk II?
    
    Thanks - Nigel

    Hi,
    
    does anyone else have this experience ?
    
    It's actually a '89 Jetta GTX, which I believe has the same engine as a
    Golf GTI, engine code PB with Digifant and hydraulic valve lifters.
    
    It's been giving me fairly loud clicking noises below 2000 rpm.
    Usually past 2000rpm it's gone. It sounds like the same clicking noise
    with the earlier solid lifter engine except that it's louder and goes
    away. Usually, once the engine is fully warmed up it's greatly reduced
    in volume.
    
    I've checked with the Volkswagen Area Workshop Manager (over the phone)
    and he described the problem to me exactly and said that it was due to the
    hydraulic valve lifters and that it's a common problem and to ignore
    it as it did not cause any problems.
    
    I'm puzzled as I didn't remember having that problem when I was test
    driving a '86 Golf GTI.
    
    Besides isn't the hydraulic lifters supposed to be quieter ? Or do I
    not have a hydraulic lifter engine ??
    
    Has anyone encountered the same problem ? Any known way to cure it ?
    It's more irritating than other thing else. 
    
    
    Seow-Hurn

Does anyone know if and when the mk3 cabrio is coming out?



	Ian

    .170�    It's been giving me fairly loud clicking noises below 2000 rpm.
    .170�    Usually past 2000rpm it's gone. It sounds like the same clicking noise
    .170�    with the earlier solid lifter engine except that it's louder and goes
    .170�    away. Usually, once the engine is fully warmed up it's greatly reduced
    .170�    in volume.
    
    Hydraulic valve lifters will click for a second or two when cold
    starting the engine. No more.

    Whats the best way of getting 2nd VWs ?
    
    Winton

re.173:

Although stealing is growing in popularity I recommend buying as the best way to
get a 2nd VW.

Dave.

RE: .170

Yeah, I have read about a few problems with hydraulic tappets.  It's 
the small oil ways to each tappet which get blocked.   A solution to 
this is to use some good flushing oil at your next service.

I can probably dig out an article of this exact problem, send me a mail 
with your internal address if you would like it.

Robert Screene @REO     

    Thanks for the info. 
    
    Did anyone suffer from this problem ? (noisy hydraulic tappets)
    Did doing a flush finally cured it ? I'm being irritated to death !!
    Just waiting for my next oil-change (using Shell TMO so don't want to
    waste it on a early oil-change yet).
    
    I'm also thinking of changing the shock absorbers. Was thinking of
    using the Boge Pro-gas. The aim is to achieve a better handling car
    without lowering the car (via springs). Is this a good choice or should
    I use the Bilstein Sports (or Sachs ??) ? I've got some float at speed
    and a lot of bump-tumping noises on rough roads (used to absorb these
    nicely). Guess the shocks must be shot.
    
    Also are there any recommendations on exhaust systems ? Something that
    is free-flowing (more hp) but not too noisy ? I've used Supersprint
    and liked them but found it pricey and difficult to get here (didn't
    find one to fit the Jetta II). I've been offered a Ansa system and a
    Devil system but haven't tried them before.
    
    
    Seow-Hurn

    .176�    Did anyone suffer from this problem ? (noisy hydraulic tappets)
    
    Be careful. The noise indicates that there is something mechanically
    wrong (too much play, belt out of sync, ...?). I would get this fixed
    asap.
    
    .176�    I use the Bilstein Sports (or Sachs ??) ? I've got some float at speed
    
    I've always been very happy with Bilsteins. They are much better than
    everything else. My experience with the Boge is with Lancias, and only
    the electronically-controlled ones would provide acceptable ride (and
    only when switched to the correct setting ie the hard one). I've used
    Sachs on a 911. They were soft and comfortable, the car was set this
    way so result was good (and fun).

Hi Seow-Hurn,

I have Boge Gas shocks inside standard GTI springs on my MK1 Golf.  They 
are very slightly more firm, but very similar in harshness to a MK II Golf 
GTI which I drove recently.  In restrospect I would renew the rear shocks 
with new original equipment dampers, nothing stiffer.  

I had the front ones changed first.  This made a dramatic improvement to 
acceleration and braking feel, when compared to what I assume were 70k mile 
original fitments.

Soon after the fronts, I had the backs renewed.  This resulted in 
absolutely NO floating round fast sweeping bends.  However the considerably 
lighter rear means bumps are absorbed less than at the front.  The rear end 
just tucks round beatifully, I have driven nothing as well balanced.  
Remember your Jetta does have a little more weight at the rear.  

I have read nice things about Sachs, good control while being comfortable. 
 
In comparison to your Jetta GTX, this probably has softer suspension than a 
MK II GTI model.  And then, the MK II GTI does come with slightly stiffer 
suspension than was standard in my MK1 described above.

Do think about supple gas shocks on the front (like the ones I have), but 
think seriously before you commit to gas shocks at the rear.  It's great 
cornering, but you can almost leave your seat over sleeping policemen 
ramps!

Progressive "comfort" springs might rectify this, but it's really hard to 
find any which don't lower your car, loosing the little suspension travel 
the GTI has.

Exhaust - a friend recently investigated this one for a similar car to 
mine.  He decided on a Sebring rear box.  I think it was stainless steel, 
free-flowing and is more quiet than the so-called "original spec" quick-
fit I had put in mine a couple of years ago.  The Sebring has just the 
right sound, quiet but purposful.  Yeah, 2BHP increase sounds about right. 
He mentioned there may have been a small change at high engine speeds, but 
nothing dramatic.  It was about �100 for the rear silencer.

Devil's are really, really offensively loud, forget those.

Good luck,
Robert.

    Robert,
    
    which Boge gas did you use - Turbo gas (yellow colour I think) or
    Pro-Gas (orange/red colour). The Pro-Gas is supposed to be
    "Progressive" with a "comfort" zone and a "sporty" zone. The problem is
    that my car already feels that way !!! Soft initially but push it
    further, it surprises with good grip. Unfortunately, I'm getting too
    much float at speeds now (shocks at 79k km). The Jetta GTX is supposed
    to use the same shocks and springs as the Golf GTI.
    
    Did you change your springs when you changed to the Boge shocks ? I
    would have thought that Boge shocks are all pretty soft, in fact I was
    afraid that the Boge will be too soft and wallowy on the Jetta. (Those are
    the only sporty shocks that I can find here, without going to sport
    suspension (shock/spring) kits).
    
    BTW, received your article on tappets, thanks !
    
    Regards
    
    Seow-Hurn

Hmm, 

I was told they were "Turbo-Gas" dampers.  I think the names have since 
been changed.

The rear shocks are read, I think the fronts are Yellow.  I didn't worry 
about it at the time.   It anything I would say the red ones at the rear 
were harder.

I kept the standard GTI springs, still plenty of life in those.

I wouldn't worry about them being under damped, I'm not sure that you mean 
about comfort and sport zones, though.

Rob.

    
    Well, the marketing fluff used those exact terms - Comfort and Sport
    zone for the Pro-gas. It's supposed to be soft initially (comfort) and
    leading to stiff (sport) as the load increase. 
    
    
    Seow-Hurn

	Im looking to change my car very soon and love the look of the Golf GTi,
Im waiting until March for the 16valve version but fear it will cost too much 
on the car scheme. Can any of you with the Mark 3 GTi give me some good honest
feedback, likes and dislikes, MPG, handling characteristics etc.

	I realize this could be a little biased, but Im not interested in how
it compares to other "Hot Hatches" as it isn't really one ( no offence meant !)

	Your info greatfully received.....


Andy

    
    Andy,
    
    I've got the latest Golf in GTi guise (is that a Mark 3?). I've been
    struck by the following:
    
    - Good build quality, ergonomics; very well equipped.
    - Excellent space, both for all passengers and in the boot.
    - Well weighted controls; excellent power steering, progressive
      throttle and brake, enjoyable gear change.
    - Well implemented engine management; doesn't exhibit the low speed
      shunt typical of small French Gtis.
    - Reasonable torque, not much power. Part throttle response promises 
      more than full throttle acceleration can deliver.
    - Fun handling. Communicative steering, little body roll, a balance
      that can be adjusted by the throttle and minimal torque steer. It
      handles well, with mild and progressive understeer that will
      react to increased steering or reduced throttle. It will oversteer,
      but if you know enough to provoke it, you probably know enough to
      enjoy it and sort it out.
    - Poor damping / shock ratings. VW really need to sort out the chassis
      when it comes to ride on bumpy or undulating roads. The car drives
      through bumps, rather than over them; in this respect, it lacks the
      finesse of the afore mentioned French Gtis.
       
    In summary, its not really a hot hatch but if you can see beyond the 
    0-60 time then it does offer a very civilised combination of pace,
    balance and creature comforts. I'd heartily recommend it.
    
    William.

    I'd agree with everything in -.1 after 3 months with my new GTi. Apart
    from anything else it has the first power-assisted  steering that I
    really like.
    
    MPG is about 10% down on my old GTi. I also find that I'm typically
    using one gear lower than the old one when I want any kind of
    reasonable acceleration (maybe that's why the MPG is down!).
    
    I suspect it only really gets buzzing with the 2.8 engine.
    Alternatively I'd love to try it with GM's hot 2-litre engine (as in
    the Astra GTE 16v).
    
    I heard some critic's comment to the effect that as the GTi was getting
    older it was getting more solid, heavy, slow, and dependable just like
    its owners. It's my fourth consecutive GTi, so that did strike a
    sensitive spot!
    

I get mine delivered on Monday 15th, so I can't say anything yet but I'm 
looking forward to running it in and I'll add more when if anyone cares when
its been run in a little.

Dave

Stepping back a decade...

I have an intermittent problem with my MK1 Golf GTI (K-Jetronic 1800cc 
engine).  When accellerating briskly (not a footfull); just enough to keep 
up with moderate-fast traffic, the engine sometimes hesitates.

It's as if one of the strokes didn't happen, or missed it's entrance to the 
scene!

   The problem only seems to occur more after 20 minutes driving.  

   The problem does not always occur.
   On the whole the car runs perfectly and pulls like a train (express!).
   It happens whether ambient temperature is mild or very cold.
   Regardless of whether that was 20 minutes of clear driving or queueing. 
   Can happen anywhere between 2500-5000 revs, it's not like a flat spot.
   It could happen when lugging in 5th or in full flight in third.
   The hesitation is rarely severe.
   A couple of times it has done a kangeroo skip away from a t-junction.

I have recently changed the following, the problem now seems a little less 
severe, but still present:
  New coil, new HT leads, new distributor cap, new rev-limited rotor arm.
  Cleaned the fuel metering venturi and flap with petrol.
  Cleaned free-flow K+N air filter
  Added three bottles of fuel-injector cleaner over 4 months.

My next targets:
  Replace spark plugs (they looked fine about 3 months ago and are about 6 
                       months old).
  New In-line fuel-filter
  The electronic fuel pump is sometimes VERY noisey (bee's in the boot),   
  however this is about �100 to replace!

This has me very perplexed.  Any suggestions are welcome.
Robert.

Do any of the dash board lights flicker when the engine starts 
to buck like this?  There is a weak spot in the ground strap from
the engine to the chassis and battery.  It connects to the
engine/tranny through the tranny side motor mount which doesn't
always make a constant and good ground.  Try running a heavy
guage wire from the negative terminal on the battery to one
of the 17mm (19mm?) bolts holding the tranny to the engine for
an extra ground strap.

We had this problem on the rally car ('83 Rabbit GTI, US spec)
and it would only show up on rough roads, but not while we
tried to debug it in the driveway or on smooth roads.

It's cheap and worth a shot!

Dave

Nice idea Dave.

I did check the condition of the battery-engine-body earth strap about a 
year ago.  Cleaned all around all three bolts to which it attaches.

I guess it could flex as the engine leaps from one end of the bay to the 
other as it moves on it's mounts.  I'll have a look into this.   I'm 
waiting for a new fuel filter and spark plugs.

The symptoms are never more than 1/8th of a second hesitation.  Just a loss 
accelleration, not a total loss of power.  The car doesn't slow down, it 
just doesn't speed up.

After that I guess it's a modile crypton tune.  I'll probably pay �35 to be 
told my timing and co% mixture are fine!

Further suggestions very welcome.
Cheers,
         Rob.

These mobil tuners are ok, but have you considered using
Phegre engineering in Pheonix Green (south of Reading)?
They only about �40 for a rolling road tune, and they're
very good...

Dave

Thanks Dave,

Fourty pounds for a local rolling road tune sounds very attractive.
Do you have any more details for Phegre engineering, they are not listed in 
my Reading area Yellow Pages.

I have also read about a tuning company called Automotive Developments (VW 
Motorsport Centre).  They apparantly have a really fancy rolling road 
hooked up to a PC.  Some software gives easy before and after power/torque 
plots.   Oddington Garage, Oddington, Oxford (0867)33226

Sounds an interesting way to waste �40.
Rob.

	The number that I've got for Phegre is 025 126 2133,
	they're just near Hook.  If they're a bit slack and
	feeling generous you can get a tour of the workshops,
	very interesting, they renovate Lagondas.  Last time
	I was there they were working on Clark Gables.  I'll
	be taking the Marlin to them in a few weeks.

	Dave

New fuel filter fitted.   A little improvement
New spark plugs fitted.   Seems to have fixed it.

The old ones had only been in for 6 months, however they appear to be the 
wrong temperature rating (Bosch W5DC's).  My manual states W6DC's for the 
1.8 engine, W5DC's are only for the 1.6

I spotted getting sent the wrong ones this time, obviously didn't the last 
time!  Now, I'll just try to be happy that everything under my bonet looks 
brand new.

Cheers,
Rob.

RE: .185

	Mr Flanders - How is the new Golf !

There is still no date for the release of the 16v yet for anyone who is 
interested....

	Andy

It's still running in, and the engine is (I suspect) still tight so the fuel
consumption is still high (compared with my previous GTi) at about 30 mpg.
All the new features (electric sun-roof, electric door mirrors etc.) are really
very pleasent but I'm still getting to grips with the power steering. Great for
parking, but it can be a little sensitive once its on the move (or maybe I'm a
little heavy handed).

I like the appearance of the new bodyshell, for me the whole car seems lighter
than the Mk 2. From the inside, it has a greater glass area and you don't feel 
as 'closed in' as the Mk2 (mind you by comparison I thought the Astra were/are 
really claustrophobia inducing ). My only criticism of the interior is that the 
seats don't seem to grip as well as the Mk2 ones.

The engine (already) seems very smooth, pulls quite well (not revving it too
hard yet) and seems to accellerate as well as my old one (assuming similar
rev limits etc).

In conclusion, I'm looking forward to the next 3 years with this car.

Dave

    First minus point for my new Golf after 3 months. The driver's window
    decided to stay down (naturally at night on a cold Friday, 60 miles
    from home!). It required a replacement motor. 

�    First minus point for my new Golf after 3 months. The driver's window
�    decided to stay down (naturally at night on a cold Friday, 60 miles
    
    Well, VW put faith in their electrics.
    
    Good job that Alfa don't (didn't) !  My GTV6 has electric windows, but
    there is a winder handler in the glovebox 'for emergencies'...
    
    J.R.

	Have any of you Mk 3 Golfers had a chance to have a good run down the 
motorways yet. I tend to do a fair amount of motorway driving to and from North 
Devon so it would be great to know if the car has any anoying vibrations or if it
doesn't like sitting at 70 or 80. 
	Also whats the stereo like, the glossy's dont give any details - just
that it has eight speakers. Are there any nice features ? like music search and 
METAL tape facilities etc.....

Andy

The tape/radio is a (probably) bog standard SONY thing in mine. I don't think 
it's got metal tape facilities (but then I only use metal tape at home, and 
only use fairly bog ordinary ferrics in the car), and it doesn't have music 
search. On the other hand then radio seems very good, with separate manual and
seek tuning controls and up to 24 presets, and is removable.

On the motorway, it seems quieter in terms of engine noise that the Mk2, but with
50 series tyres is rather more sensitive to the road surface than the old 60
profiles.

Something that rather took me by surprise is that the wheel bolts (5 of them) are
larger than the other Golfs (and then Mk2s) so for locking wheel bolts you need
the ones for an Audi (and Martins want �91.04 + VAT for a set).

More later

Dave

	I tried the Golf GTi on Saturday and I was impressed !

	Not with its performance but with its ride and handling, also the build 
quality seems superb. However - I'm really cheesed off with the fact that you
cant get ABS on it, so I'm not sure if its a contender anymore.....

	Has anybody got any suggestions on other cars I could consider ?

	
Andy_who_is_really_cheesed_off_and_might_get_a_cavalier_16v_for_the_hell_off_it

    
    16 v should include ABS.
    
    
    Hannu

	You are absolutely right, the 16v will have it and ETC as standard.
The trouble is I want on the 8v, I've just spoken to the V.A.G. garage and they 
are talking directly to HQ to come up with some answers. One thing emerged from 
this little chat though, it seems the problem lies with putting ABS into a 2.0 
litre RHD car. It appears there isn't enough room to fit it all in as the ABS 
unit sits on the end of the brake servo.

	Unofficially - putting 2 & 2 together - it would appear that this is 
also what is holding up production of the 16v GTi......


Andy_who_has_just_quoted_for_a_16v_Cavalier_and_Astra_GSi

    The car list on VTX says that ABS is an option on the GOLF GTI.
    

	The ABS option is refering to all the other models in the range.....

Andy

Hi,

My Mk1 Golf now has 117k miles on it's clock.  It's using a little water 
and a little oil, about three times the frugal amount when I had it at half 
the mileage.

I have had three water hoses burst (are there any left to replace!), and 
have (carefully) struggled a little way to a dealer or home.

I intend to have the cylynder head off and de-coke and re-grind the valves 
a little.  I have bought a rocker cover gasket, cylynder head gasket, 
camshaft oil seals, valve seals, and new bolts and inlet and exhaust 
gaskets from a dealer.

I have looked brielfly at the Haynes manual and will have the assistance of 
a reasonably experienced parent (an engineer/home mechanic 1960-1976!).  I 
don't want to remove the engine.

Any comments on the task at hand would be appreciated.  General gotchas 
with such a job, extra parts I may require (doing it on a Bank Holiday), 
and especially from anyone who has seen the oily bits of a water cooled VW 
lump.

Rob.

  Buy a new timing belt as well and put it on.  You might have some trouble
  with the exhaust manifold nuts and/or studs.  Some of the nuts will come
  off and some will take the studs with them.  Either way is okay.  You
  might want to buy some new nuts and maybe studs just in case you have to
  damage one taking it out.
  
  Depending on intake (carb vs fi) you might find easier access if you take
  the intake manifold off first.  In which case you'll need a new gasket
  for that too.
  
  The lower bolt holding the timing belt cover on, down by the alternator
  and sticking out to the side has always been a problem for me.  The head
  is a hex key and it's very easy to strip.  On most of my VWs I tend to
  leave this cover off once I remove it the first time just because of this
  bolt.
  
  Do you have the instructions for aligning the pulleys when you put the
  timing belt back on?  Obviously it's very important, but also fairly
  simple.  The book should cover that and your friend might know it anyway.
  
  Not to cause you any more grief, but you might find that the oil
  consumption is being caused by worn rings as well as valve guides and
  seals.  That's not a bad job either, except that you do it all from under
  the car.  Save that for the next holiday.....
  
  Dave

I think Mr.Haynes states how to make such a device, or do you think I 
should try to rent one?  I guess I should also get hold something to help 
grind the valves (and two grades of paste?).

Thanks, I think I'll buy a couple of exhaust studs and nuts.

Any more?

Rob.

  With the Mk1 Golf you have shims to adjust the valves.  If you are doind
  a valve job you will have to re-adjust them afterwards.  For this you'll
  need an assorment of shims.  You could take the measurements after it's
  all back together and then buy just the ones you'll need.  I used to have
  a pile of them taken from various engines we had taken apart, but not any
  more, plus I'm a bit far away.....
  
  You'll also need the two tools for depressing the shim cups and
  removing/installing the shims.
  
  Dave

Nice point Dave.

I just read the section really closely and came up with grinding paste (2 
grades), pipe cleaners for oilways, and 8 containers (one for each valve 
assembly).

Oh yeah, and some replacement oil and anti-freeze.  Any more?

Anyone got some spare blu-tac in case I find a crack in the head? 8-)

Beginning to almost look forward to this job.

Rob.

Took it apart. I was very happily surprised with the condition of the head 
and bores.  No cracks, a little carbon around the valves as expected.  
Cleaned them all up, ground them in a little to that the valves and seats 
are beautifully smooth.  It hasn't made much difference to the valve 
clearence which is still right on spec as before.

A very hard 2� days worth of work and �130 in parts has paid off, much less 
 noise and pulls very smoothly.  I think I upset the timing a little bit 
as the pulleys were not in the place as they should have been and I had to 
reset the distributor timing.

I think I'll give it a couple of days before a crypton/rolling road 
escapade to see of that smoothing of the cast alloy inlet ducts in the 
manifold pays off!

Cheers,
Rob.

  Now that it's back together I would double check the cam timing by lining
  up all the marks on the pulleys.  The dimple on the back side of the cam
  pulley should line up with the top of the head (not just the lip on the
  cam cover), the dimple and the V notch on the crank pulley and
  distributor shaft pulley should line up too (forgot which is on which.)
  
  Having the cam timing off and making up for it with the distributor
  timing might work, but isn't correct.  Once it's all set, you should be
  able to advance the distributor so it idles around 1200 rpm to get a
  little more top end power.
  
  Dave

Yeah Dave, that's my worry.

We carefully lined up the cam pulley with the top of the head before 
dissasembly, and left the car stationary, in 5th to ensure we didn't move 
the bottom end crankshaft.

However when reconnecting the timing belt, a slight shunt was felt 
somwhere the belt had moved one or more teeth as the bottom slack was 
taken up.  My guess is that it was the loose belt moving a few teeth over 
the mid pulley (linked by a shaft to the distributor isn't it?).

On trying to start the car it would fire but didn't really want to know.  
So I went back to basics and removed the lower timing cover and found the 
lower two pulley marks you describe.  When the crankshaft pulley and 
camshaft pulleys were in exactly the right place, the mid shaft was way out 
(20 degrees).  I corrected this against the belt and made matters worse, 
now that car was trying to backfire when it eventually started.


My guess is that the specialist who changed the timing belt for me about 
two years ago forgot to line this mid shaft up (after a similar mishap 
to mine) and merely corrected the problem the easy way, by using a strobe 
light and adjusting the distributor.  Net result perfection at the time, 
but extremely confusing for the next bod to rely on the timing dimples 
(me!).

I DO think the camshaft and bottom end are to within one tooth or even 
spot on as spec.  I just don't think I have a hope of setting the advance 
without a proper crypton.

Looks as though the spec for my 1.8 DX engine states timing should be 6 
degrees BTDC at idle.  Are you sure that advancing it is going to help top 
end power?

Is there an alternative way to double check piston position to cam timing?

Any further comment is very much appreciated.
Rob.

p.s. timing belt allen key was really easy, I had a key which was part of 
my socket set!

  From your note it does sound like the pistons and cam/valves are okay,
  just the dist is off.  I don't use a timing light so maybe someone else
  can help you set the dist timing back to normal.
  
  All I do to raise the idle is loosen the 13mm bolt holding the dist down
  (while the engine is running) and gently turn the dist until the idle
  raises to about 1200rpm.  Tighten the bolt and all set!  You can raise it
  to about 1500rpm, but then you'll need a constant supply of high octane
  fuel to keep it from pinging under load.
  
  Dave

It had a brand new fuel pump a few months ago so I should hope the system 
pressure is up there with the gods!

But surely the (slow) idle speed is also VERY dependant on the idle 
adjustment screw on the throttle body.  It could be timed at 6 degrees BTDC 
and it's just that your slow idle happens to be adjusted to 1500rpm.

Or did you have the dist at spec and adjust slow idle to 950rpm, then 
advance the timing to get 1500rpm, hence giving a quantified increase.

I am still learning about all this stuff and am probably missing something 
basic!

Cheers,
Rob.

  I didn't play with the throttle body at all.  I just twisted the dist
  which raised the idle.
  
  Dave

Had the sump off the Golf the other weekend and replaced the Big-End 
bearings.  

Crank shaft was in really good shape, no ovality.  The top big-end shells 
(the one's that get the most hammering) were only slightly worn, very 
impressive considering 115K is now on the clock.

I noticed some oil is getting blown (sucked?) into the air-inlet just below 
the injection air metering unit.  There's also quite a bit of oil/gasses 
inside the rocker cover when the engine is idling with the oil filler taken 
off.  I have been told this is normal in the past.

I can't seem to find mention of an oil breather in the Haynes manual for 
this Bosch K-Jetronic Volkswagen engine.  

I just read Note 772.35 which mantioned worn piston rings not helping this 
problem by letting more pressure past than normal.  I have checked my 
compression and it reads 154,178,180,200 lb/ft  going for cyl 1-4. The 
specs say 150-180 is normal, so I don't think poor compression is to 
blame..

I would appreciate any thoughts.

Rob.

Which model Golf?  We have an '85 Jetta (Mk II) and there is an oil breather on
the top of the valve cover.  I've removed the f/i and replaced it with a Weber
so I simply attached a rubber hose from that breather to the inlet on the carb
housing.

Of course, I'm in the US so maybe they did something different for the European
models.

Dave

Hi Dave,
Where abouts is your Oil breather?  Is it on the top of the rocker cover, 
or a turret type thing into the back of the engine block?

It's a Mark 1 Golf with the later 1800cc DX engine with Bosch K-Jetronic 
mechanical fuel-injection.  

I wouldn't be surprised if you Jetta is a bit different, you probably have 
all sorts of extra re-circulation pipe-work under there!  If it's a GTI 
of '85 I think it probably had the same type of injection as mine.  That's 
before the "Digifant" electronic management was used to lower production 
costs and raise economy.

Thanks,
Rob.

p.s. Wern't you racing a MK1?  Can I mention brakes...  I'm using fast-road 
"G-Force" front pads on standard vented disks.  My Mk1 has the horrible 
cross bulkhead brake linkage to the servo so the brakes are quite dead.  
Would you go for braided brake hoses to the front, or the �150 ($215?) 
linkage uprate which some specialists offer here.  What would you expect 
the hoses to cost?

Rob, Yes, I was rallying a Mk1 GTI here in the states and Canada.  The oil
breather was on top of the valve cover (there are no rockers....:-)), there was
nothing sticking out of the block.  On the diesels they had a crankcase
ventilation line coming from on top of the oil filter housing as well, but not
on the gas versions.  If your cover doesn't have a vent, you can probably find
one in a junk yard that has one.

The '85 Jetta we have has the 1800 (as did the '83 GTI) and both came with the
same type of fuel injection, the non-Digifant type.  The Jetta did have a bunch
of extra hoses before I switched to a Weber.

The '83 had the vented disks too and I found that the stock VW pads lasted about
twice as long as some Ferodos I tried.  I bought some metal brake lines for it
as well, about $40 I think.  Since mine was LHD, I didn't have to deal with the
brake linkage you have.  The brakes a quite good, so I would look at the
linkages first.  It might be worth your while to see what you get for the �150
and see if you can fabricate something similar for a lot less.

I bought my first lower stress bar for my '78 Rabbit, but after seeing what I
got for my $$ I've made my others.

Dave

Thanks Dave,

Mine does have a breather on top of the camshaft cover (!!!), I mentioned 
it because I'm dropping a little oil from a very wierd place! ...

On inspection I think some oil has been getting sucked out this breather 
down a pipe linked to the  vacuum present above the air filter, below the 
air metering flap.  

I guess it's designed to stop excess oil leaking as it is then burnt off in 
the combustion process.  It's Just that the air filter and bottom of the 
metering unit have a fair coating of oil which I guess drains down the 
linkage pipe from the oil breather when the engine is stopped.

It may be due to the oil filter comming loose in the past.  God knows what 
effect that had on system pressures for the oil and air mixture.  Any 
guesses??????

Lower Stress bar - piece of 5mm aluminium angle, drilled 2 holes and cut 
out a wide slot for the bottom of the clutch housing!  Forget the 40-140 
pounds specialists want to charge here!   I have read that the full 
triangulated jobs give even more rigidity at the front.

I just had to replace the front pads.  Both pads in the front left caliper 
were down to the linings, but both of the front right pads had only worn 
half as much.  Any ideas of the cause?

I also noticed that the front left cv boot is completely torn and has 
disgraced itself with all it's greasy content.

Is there much involved in undoing the driveshaft and getting the old one 
out from the wheel hub?  I am also interested in this procedure because I 
have to remove and probably replace the damper on the other side as it's 
rubber bump-stop is missing.

The UK front rhd brake linkage is a work of lightweight art, but fails in 
it's purpose miserably!

e.g.           |pushrod into servo
               |
o=pivot point oo                                o  
              o--------------------------------o o
		  pullrod			 | pushrod from foot pedal
                                                 |

I have seen a "superbrake conversion and it replaces the 6 pivot points 
with a single big twisting bar across the bulkhead which transmits the 
pressure using a solid arm welded to each end.  I don't have the guts to 
attempt re-working such a critical part of the car.  For over �100 I'll 
probably live with it!

Rob.

>It's Just that the air filter and bottom of the 
>metering unit have a fair coating of oil which I guess drains down the 
>linkage pipe from the oil breather when the engine is stopped.

Had that happen on my '83 GTI too.  On the Thunder Bunny (Mk 1 Golf, 1600cc
SuperVee engine, 158bhp, useful revs from 6500-8200rpm) we just had the oil
breather dump into a metal can.  On the diesels, they use this oil blowby to
lubricate the valve stems.

>Lower Stress bar - piece of 5mm aluminium angle, drilled 2 holes and cut 
>out a wide slot for the bottom of the clutch housing!  Forget the 40-140 
>pounds specialists want to charge here!   I have read that the full 
>triangulated jobs give even more rigidity at the front.

On the Mk 1 Golfs the stress bar was really needed.  On the Mk 2 and Mk 3 they
aren't needed as much, but do help.

>I just had to replace the front pads.  Both pads in the front left caliper 
>were down to the linings, but both of the front right pads had only worn 
>half as much.  Any ideas of the cause?

What I have found, is the inner left pads wears the fastest and the outer right
the slowest, with the other two about the same.  If most of the turns you take
(exit ramps....slip roads??) turn right, the left side of the car has more
weight on it.  If you brake during these turns, the left side pads produce more
heat to slow the car down than the right.  The inner pad heats up more than the
outer pad so it wears faster.  Look at the types of roads you drive on and where
the braking happens in the turns.

>I also noticed that the front left cv boot is completely torn and has 
>disgraced itself with all it's greasy content.

Replace it, the CV joint is shot.  However, they make great puzzles or paper
weights once they are all cleaned up.

>Is there much involved in undoing the driveshaft and getting the old one 
>out from the wheel hub?  I am also interested in this procedure because I 
>have to remove and probably replace the damper on the other side as it's 
>rubber bump-stop is missing.

You need a 12 point 8mm (10mm maybe) hex socket to remove the inner joint from
the tranny housing.  For the outer joint you need a 30mm socket and a long
breaker bar.  It has around 175 ft lbs of torque on it and it's probably rusted
too....  Do this step first with the car in gear and someone standing on the
brake pedal.  You should be able to remove the entire halfshaft without undoing
the two lower strut bolts from the wheel hub, but they don't effect the
alignment like they did in the Mk 1, so you can if you have to.

Here in the US we've found it's cheaper to buy a complete axle with two new CV
joints all set to go that it is to buy one replacement CV joint from VW.  It's
also a lot less mess.

For replacing the right side strut, you don't have to do anything to the CV
joint or halfshaft.  Just undo the two lower strut bolts and it drops right out.

If you start playing with the tower bearing or spring, get a good spring
compressor or bring it to a shop with one.  The springs can be deadly if not
held in place when removing thhe tower bearing.

Dave

    re .221
    
>>>What I have found, is the inner left pads wears the fastest and the outer right
>>>the slowest, with the other two about the same.  If most of the turns you take
>>>(exit ramps....slip roads??) turn right, the left side of the car has more
>>>weight on it.  If you brake during these turns, the left side pads produce more
>>>heat to slow the car down than the right.  The inner pad heats up more than the
>>>outer pad so it wears faster.  Look at the types of roads you drive on and where
>>>the braking happens in the turns.

    While it is true that on a turn one side of the car carries more weight
    this does not mean that it has more braking effort. There is no effect
    at the brake calipers from additional weight on the wheel. The pressure
    in the brake fluid should be the same, and the speed of the wheel
    should be very nearly the same (if anything the inner wheel is going
    slower). The only way you would get different amounts of braking is if
    one wheel locks (or you have ABS which gets activated), but I dont
    think you would be going that fast into a bend (rear wheels maybe, but
    not front !). If you notice a pull to one side or the other when
    braking in a straight line then one set of brakes is not working
    properly, and this should be corrected. I suspect the different wear is
    due to a 'rougher' disc.
    
    There may well be some effect on the tyre wear from turning one way
    more than another, but that is a different matter. In any case in the
    UK we dont have the tight turns at highway junctions that are common in
    the US.
    
    Andrew

Thanks.



Dave,
>> You should be able to remove the entire halfshaft without undoing
>> the two lower strut bolts from the wheel hub, but they don't effect the
>> alignment like they did in the Mk 1, so you can if you have to.

It IS a MK1 Golf/Rabbit.  Lower strut bolts?   Where are these and what is 
their purpose?  Are we talking about the two eccentric bolts which hold the 
front camber geometry in place?  Do I have to move them to release the 
outer cv joint???

Is halfshaft what I probably know as the "driveshaft"?

What sort of grease do I pack inside the cv boot.  How do you find it's 
best to fill the thing up and seal it?  (I do think my Father was a medium 
sized grease gun hiding in his shed somwhere, might this help?)

Thanks for the interest,
Rob.

Rob,

	Ok, for some reason I thought it was a Mk II....  Yes, the lower
stress bar helps a lot.

	The two eccentric bolts *might* have to be loosened or removed to
get the end of the halfshaft (driveshaft) out.  Depends on how much you
managed to pull the hub out and bend the CV joint to one side.

	If you buy a CV boot kit (just the rubber boot, not the whole 
joint) you'll get the metal bands and a tube of grease for the joint.  I 
have bought larger tubes in parts stores.  You should be able to buy 
generic CV joint grease.  No need for a grease gun, just use your hands!!

	Can you buy the Robert Bentley manuals for the VWs over there?  
They are the best repair manuals you can buy in the US for the VWs and 
really show you every step of the way.

Dave

Thanks Dave,

I haven't seen any Robert Bently stuff over here.  I just re-read my 
previous note.  Contrary to my claim; my Father wasn't a grease gun, but he 
does HAVE a grease gun!

It's about 1 degree centigrade outside this morning and I guess it's 
hindering even the small amount of grease left in the outer joint.  There 
is some terrible knocking comming from the left side when I turn even a 
slight right hander.

Would you be pretty sure the joint is shot and order a new one at about �45 
(in international currency; that's 22 pints of beer!) as opposed to having 
to re-assemble and dismantle the thing twice?

Rob.

  Rob,
  
  	Yes, it does sound as if the CV joint is shot.  If you can find the
  complete halfshaft with joints, go that route.  Otherwise, get ready to
  get very greasy and replace just the outer joint.
  
  	We're in a heat wave right now, up around 70-75�F which is nice
  because I have to redo the fuel lines, filter and pump on our '85 Jetta
  today.
  
  Dave

Do I take it you mean it's good because any spilt fuel is going to 
evaporate real quick?  I just ordered the c/v joint and boot kit.

Good luck with the job.    Rob.

  Rob,
  
  	No, it's just that I'd rather be outside under a car when it's 70�F
  than when it's hovering around the freezing point....  Everything seems
  be working ok on the Jetta now, although it does stumble a bit at
  constant throttle and hesitated a bit under full load when I first took
  it out for a test.  Looks like it will still be 'my' car for the rest of
  the week because the wife doesn't feel confident with it right now.
  
  	What year is your VW?  I have a spare (slightly ratty) Bentley
  manual for the 1975-1979 models.��  Inte��reste��d.
  ����
  Dave��
  ��
  ps - sorry for th��e ���������� strange characters - noisy phone line

Thanks Dave,

It's the last of the MK1's; 1983.  Nice light bodyshell, 1800cc engine.
Loads of mid-range torque to weight (137lbft2/tonne).

Thanks for the offer of the early manual.  I just found an add for newly
imported, Robert Bently manuals, guess what's going to be on my letter to
santa!


I did the c/v joint change last Friday.  The driveshaft cane out quite 
easily, it was a splined drive I needed to undo it from the final drive, I 
was quite upset once i'd got it all up on axle stands to find I had the 
wrong hexagonal key available!

I have a new set of progressing rear "comfort" springs.  I'm hoping these 
will work better with the stiffer rear gas dampers I had fitted a couple of 
years ago.  Apparently its quite easy to change the rear springs, you don't 
need a spring compressor because there's plenty of travel within the damper 
.

Any good tips for this job?

Thanks,
Rob.

  Rob,
  
  	Glad the hear the cv joint work came out all right.  The rears are
  much easier.  The only tricky part is holding the top nut still while you
  unscrew the shaft.  The nut is held in a metal washer that is shaped like
  a dish, so a normal wrench (spanner) doesn't work very well.  On the
  rally car I cut a 90� piece out of the washer so I could fit the 17mm
  wrench on the nut properly.  Do one side at a time so you will not forget
  which order all the rubber grommets and metal washers go!
  
  	I also remember the rear axle needs to be pushed down to get the
  shock out.  You might need a freind to help you with that.
  
  Dave 

Thanks Dave,

All went well with the springs. 

I went for a pair of progressive "comfort" rear springs from a reputable 
specialist over here for �20 each.  Claimed to lower the car by 25mm, I 
said I didn't really want to lower the car, reducing suspension travel.  
However the guy told me that the rear may end up higher, since the 10 year 
old springs may have sagged a bit.

Un-compressed, the new ones were about 25mm shorter than the originals.  
Once on the car the new rear ride height is now 10mm higher on both sides!

Things are a bit more "fluid" at the back.  Turn in slightly not as crisp, 
but it's a difference I'll learn to like!  I've only pushed it slightly 
round one cornet and I liked the way the car felt balanced.  A little less 
like a go-kart.

Also, definately less road feel through the bottom!
Thanks,
Rob.

Hi,
If I drive over 95 mph, I now notice the odd black cloud following me.  The 
previous notes mention about the head being rebuilt recently and given new 
valve guide oil seals, so I suspect the oil scraper rings and noted a 
slightly low compression (at the low end of the haynes limits) on number 1 
cylinder.

I'm frustrated that I didn't make a note of each cylinder bore size when 
checking each for ovality when the head was off.

I guess I'll have to take it off again, measure up, order the rings and buy 
a simple ring compressor, then wait a couple of days till the parts arrive.

What other things should I replace while I'm in there, the little end 
bearings inside the pitsons spring to mind.  I've already replaced the big 
end-bearings at the crank end.

Any experience and comment greatly appreciated.

Rob.

A 'simple' test would be to fly along at 95+ and when the black cloud 
appears, shut the engine down, pull over and then pull the plugs.  Look for 
oil on them and that would verify if oil is getting into the combustion 
chamber (in large quantities) and which cylinder is worse than the others.

This test might not be easily done on the highways however.

Are you sure it is oil smoke and not an over rich mixture?  Maybe there is 
some WOT setting/switch that is dumping too much fuel into the intake?

The spark plug test above would tell you if it is oil or too much fuel 
causing the smoke.

You could also have a friend with a good sense of smell follow you......

Dave

Hi Dave,

Would the oil burn off within a � a mile of the fast test?  I could drive 
along, then pop into my Father's driveway just past the exit and then pull 
the plugs.  Do you think the plugs would still look oily?  My guess is not, 
as normally the rings do a marginally ok job when not pushed, such as 
driving in normal traffic, which would quickly burn them clean?????

Any decription of the oil smoke vs. the rich mixture smoke???  Someone here 
mentioned black vs blue smoke.  I goess it was slightly blue, but it's hard 
to tell glancing out the rear view mirror.

General performance seems fine, pulling low down well.  It does hunt a 
little bit at idle, but I assumed that was where I haven't changed the 
plugs for around 6K miles.  Idle stability doesn't seem a strongpoint of 
K-Jetronic.

I colleague sat behind me in a car park queue mentioned about "quite a lot 
of smoke (white)" when crawling in traffic in a stone cold engine (5 
degrees c external temp).  I guess this is where my journey in to work is 
now about 3 miles so the exhaust isn't drying out all the condensation by 
the time I get there, hence the extra steam in the evening as water 
collects.  The car consume much coolant/water.

Thanks for the time.
Rob.

    Rob,
    
    To do a proper "plug chop" test you need to drive at the speed you have
    the problem at, then switch off the ignition and disengage the gears at
    the same time, so that the engine doesn't turn. You then coast to a
    halt, and examine the plugs. This is used frequently to check the
    mixture on a loaded engine. As the first reply said, it ain't easy on
    the Queen's Highway. And yes, you probably will burn your fingers. 8^)
    
    Nigel
    

  Rob, just had a thought - what revs are you turning at 95 in fifth?  Just
  use those revs in 1st or 2nd until the smoke appears.  You might be able
  to do the plug test at a lower speed....?
  
  How about a rolling road?
  
  Dave

Hmm.

I've seen it as low as a constant 90mph which is 4500rpm in fifth.
Wouldn't the load on the cylynders be much less at 4500rpm in a lower gear? 
Or isn't that related to the troubleshooting?   

Also the smoke can't be made to appear, for example it seems to arrive when 
I get a little keen on the motorway half way though a 30 mile journey into 
London. I do accelerate hard occasionally when I see a nice clear road and 
have yet to produce any smoke through provocation.  My guess is it's 
related to how hot the block is. 

Does this set any bells ringing???

Thanks again,
Rob.

>I've seen it as low as a constant 90mph which is 4500rpm in fifth.
>Wouldn't the load on the cylynders be much less at 4500rpm in a lower gear? 
>Or isn't that related to the troubleshooting?   

Yeah, the extra load might be a factor which is why I slipped in the thought 
about the rolling road.  Of course, if it isn't reproducable all the time, it 
might cost a bit to stay on the rolling road for a few hours.....

From you previous note you indicate the engine consumes water/coolant.  That 
indicates a break in the head, head gasket or possibly the block.  How 
pronounced in the white smoke during regular driving and how much coolant is 
it using?

Do you notice a drop in power when the smoke appears?  Any surging?  I had 
something similar on one of my VW diesels - They didn't install a crankcase 
breather so the oil vapours would build up in the crank and eventually start 
getting past the rings.  The engine would take off on its own and a *very* 
thick cloud of blue/black smoke would come out the tail pipe.  It was fun 
because the throttle would have no effect on engine speed anymore.  VW (US) 
did a recall and installed a breather pipe to the intake.

Dave

Wow!

We have a serious bottleneck getting our of the Reading DECpark Car Park, 
the car can be started from cold and have to crawl mainly around idle for 
20-30 minutes at a pace I could crawl faster than; before getting to an 
open road allowing 20mph driving.   The white smoke seems to remaing until 
I have driven the car a little way, I guess it's just where the engine 
doesn't warm fully at idle in 15 minutes?

I don't notice any white smoke once the engine has done � a mile and 
warmed up, certainly nothing after 2-3 miles when the Oil temperature has 
come on-line, at over 50 degrees on the computer.

Water consumption.  Seems to vary.  It needs � a litre of water every 
other month.  During that time I've driven around 1100 miles, but with 
lots of cold start idling mentioned above.

Remember it's white smoke when cold, dark blue-ish smoke only then 
hammering on a motorway.  

No surging, no loss of power.  Do you think the black smoke could be 
related to the pressure in the camshaft cover/breather pipe I mentioned 
last November, reply .220
> Mine does have a breather on top of the camshaft cover (!!!), I 
> mentioned it because I'm dropping a little oil from a very wierd place! 
> On inspection I think some oil has been getting sucked out this breather
> down a pipe linked to the  vacuum present above the air filter, below 
> the air metering flap.

I guess it now uses a similar amount of oil as water, say � litre per 1500 
miles.

Thanks for your interest.
Rob.

A simple way to figure out if is the oil breather:  Disconnect it from the 
intake and route the line to a suitibly sealed container that can hold a pint 
or so.  Make it easy to remove and empty because it will fill up with oil 
eventually.  This way, any oil blowby will go to the can and not back into 
the engine.  Leave it this way for a few weeks and see if the black/blue 
smoke goes away at speed.

The white smoke sounds normal although the constant need to top up the 
coolant is not really normal.  As long as there is no white smoke once it's 
warmed up I wouldn't worry too much.

Dave (planning to take the '24 out cruising this weekend if the weather stays 
dry)

           <<< WANLAD::DUA1:[NOTES$LIBRARY.GENERAL]CARS_UK.NOTE;3 >>>
                                  -< Cars UK >-
================================================================================
Note 385.17                       Alloy Wheels                          17 of 17
WSTENG::HICKMAN "Peter Hickman"                       6 lines   2-MAR-1994 10:12
                             -< Alloys for a VW? >-
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I'm thinking of replacing the wheels on my VW Golf Cabrio. However some distant
memory of mine says there is something different or odd about VW wheels off-set?
Is this true and if so what should I be looking out for when looking for the new
wheels? Thanks in advance.

Peter.

Golf GTI Mk3 5 Door (aka Boris The Dub) - Half Term Report.

Boris is now half way through his lease period (3 years - 60K miles) so I 
thought I would write a bit of a half term report........

Up until this morning Boris has provided me with totally reliable transport 
(more of this latter !) The ride and handling have been acceptable and good 
respectively. The engine is very good - will rev or slog equally well - and 
driven in my usual granny style manages 34 - 37 mpg. 

Boris is very quiet when cruising on the motorway and generally behaves in 
a fairly sophisticated way which is pleasingly out of line with the "hot hatch" 
image. Unfortunately he is also out of line with the quality VW image 
(which in the UK is now a bit of a - motor trade - joke). The quality of the 
interior  fittings has always been poor and I have given up trying to get an 
interior that does not make a collection of noises every time Boris looks at a 
bump. The standard fit Sony slide out radio cassette is appalling and getting 
worse. 

So will I be driving Boris home tonight ? NO WAY........ he disgraced 
himself this morning on the A34 coming into Newbury (AVOID at the 
moment at all costs !). The electric cooling fan motor seized then burnt out, 
the water temp went off the clock and I limped him into Ridgways garage. 
They said tut tut and I said "I'm glad not everything in my life is as 
unreliable as this Volkswagen" ! Boris is the first new car to let me down the 
previous ones where a Ford and an Austin !

Summary:-

Boris fails to deliver the premium quality that his premium price make 
obligatory. This model is not recommended.

Regards,

Nick. 

    While unfortunate, I think it's a bit extreme to cast aspurtions (sp?)
    on the whole Golf range because of this one incident!
    
    Poor Boris, though.
    
    

    I'm pretty sure it's general knowledge within the morot trade that the
    New (Mk III) Golf is a complete dog as far as reliability goes. Anyone
    remember the CAR article with "DO NOT BUY THIS CAR" in 2" high script when
    reviewing their long term test VR6 (V6R ?) Golf.

    I'm now at 25,000 with my MK III GTi 3-door.
    
    I like it. Not quite as nippy as my previous ones but definitely nicer
    to drive. The power steering is just right compared with others I've
    tried.
    
    Buts - only one real problem which was the driver's side window motor
    failing in the first week (of course it failed wide open on a freezing
    night 60 miles from home). Also as mentioned before, a lot more squeaks
    and rattles than any of my previous three GTis, and that's one of my
    personal hates.

I drove a Mk II GTI 16V, and thought it a rattley car!

I can't believe the claims they make.

Mark.

    should have bought an Xr3i...
    
    :-)

    I hope that was intended as a joke!
    

    Yep..:-) :-)
    
    Paul (3i cabriolet owner)

    Can anyone tell me the size of the wheels/tyres on the 16V GTI? I have snow
    chains for those, but I need to get some for my Cavalier. A quick
    answer will be most helpful - I won't need to climb through the attic
    tonight to find them!
    
    Thanks
    Mike

205/55x14 I think, but that's the US model.

Dave

    Hi,
    I am currently looking out for an 8v Golf GTI on the second hand
    market, something '88 - '90 would be in my price range. I understand
    that after 1990 the GTI has become less of a sports car, slower etc. Is
    this true. 
    
    I had a quick look at an 1988 model with 93,000 miles, but it seemed to
    be nearly perfect. Should I steer clear of one with that sort of miles?
    Does anyone have any tips on what to look out for when buying?
    
    I would be grateful for any help.
    
    Thanks, Kevin.

General VW/GTI issues:

Check cv joint boots, inner and outer for rips, tears, etc.

See if the timing belt was replaced around 60k miles.  The valves will not hit
the pistons on te 8v (at least the US version) so if the belt breaks, the engine
will simply stop running.

Check the engine mounts for slop, especially the front one.

During a test drive, see if the 2nd gear snychro is working properly - that one
gets eaten up if the car has been abused - I know it was pretty well shot on my
'83 GTI rally car.

See if any of the carpets get wet when it rains.  The plastic liners in the
doors leak sometimes.

Check the water pump and radiator for dripping, they may be due for replacement
at 93k miles.

The engine itself should not be a problem at 93k miles, but a number of things
on the car may be getting worn out - brakes, shocks, tower bearings, etc.  How
long do you plan to keep this car?  With the proper care, you should be able to
get 150k+ miles out of it, so replacing what is worn now should be worth it in
the long run.

Nigel Dutt should have some input since he had an '88 GTI I think, unless this
is his car!! :-)

Dave

    Kevin,
    
    I've seen this on a Scirocco and have been told that's it's common for
    all VWs.
    
    For RHD versions check the point that the clutch cable enters the
    bulkhead. 
    
    As the clutch is on the LH side the LHD version has a short cable that
    goes directly from clutch to bulkhead. On the RHD version the cable
    goes over the engine (get's cooked) and is longer. Hence it gets stiff.
    
    The outer cable is held by the bulkhead and hence takes all of the
    operating pressure. After some use it can have a metal fatigue effect
    on the bulkhead and pull a hole through it. This is not rust related so
    can happen on immaculate looking cars.
    
    The good news is that there is a repair plate that can be welded in.
    The bad news is where you have to weld it.
    
    Of course if this happened in the states they'd all be recalled and
    done free!
    
    Peter
    
    
    
    

    
    re .252
    
    VW models before 1990 are faster, because catalytic converter is not 
    installed. Power loss with catalysator is at the most with 16v models. 
    
    
    
    Hannu 

I sold my '86 LHD GTI 8v last year, with 230,000 km on the clock (140,000 miles).
In all the time that I had it, I lost a fuel pump, and a battery.

It never consumed oil, and just ran and ran and ran...

At the end, it was getting some surface rust on the leading edge of the doors.
Other than that no problems.

-Steve

    re .252
    
    Thanks for your help in my search for a GTI.
    
    I had another look and at and drove the one I saw with 93 K on it. The
    car has four owners but, except for a small leak in the bottom of the
    rad I cannot find anything wrong with it. In terms of condition it is
    the best GTI of that age group I have seen and there no problems on the
    road, everything is nice and tight etc.
    
    The only fault with it on the road it thet it seems a little bit slow
    compared with some GTIs I drove two years ago when I was last looking
    for one ( I got an Accord instead). There is no smoke of back pressure
    form the engine, so it is unlikly to be in need of a rebore, what else
    is the likley cause of the lack of speed. Also, there is a very slight
    tappet noise, is this normal.
    
    Thanks again, Kevin

> There is no smoke of back pressure
>    form the engine, so it is unlikly to be in need of a rebore, what else
>    is the likley cause of the lack of speed.

Check plugs and wires.  You can also advance the dist a bit to get more power.

> Also, there is a very slight tappet noise, is this normal.

Generally, yes.  Change the oil and see if that helps it.

Dave

Hi Kevin,

Check for un-even wear on the front tyres, if it's not scrubbing on the two front 
tyres then you'll probably be looking at one with a straight chassis and definitely 
looked after wheel alignment.

If not, it may just be the camber/tracking or could be because of an out-of-line 
bodyshell from a past accident.

Any scraping noise if you push the clutch pedal very gently, this would probably 
indicate clutch problems on the way.  Also is the clutch very stiff? Again, 
probably a cheap or end-of-life clutch.

Any noise from the steering rack or c\v joints going to either side lock at parking 
speed.  Not terrible to replace, but a resounding clonk could help the price down.

Here's some detail I found of model changes, I think it's a bit more detail than 
in Parkers...

| Mar-1984 | VW Golf     | Launched mk2 range. Roomier, quieter, better brakes, 
			   front suspension with subframe. Poor    
| Oct-1984 | VW Golf GTI | Standard Sunroof                                        
| Aug-1985 | VW Golf GTI | Deeper front spoiler, twin exhaust pipes                
| Jan-1986 | VW Golf     | Revisions. Hydraulic tappets and self-adj clutch        
| Sep-1986 | VW Golf     | Revisions. standard height-adj seat. Stereo             
| Aug-1987 | VW Golf     | Revisions no qtr-light 4slat grille,rhd wipe,
			   steering w,column controls, sil mouldings, rear 
| Aug-1987 | VW Golf GTI | New wheels, upgraded trim,Digifant EFi engine can run
			   unleaded without adjustment.                            
| Aug-1988 | VW Golf     | Revisions wide angle side mirrors. Heated washers. 1.6 
			   CL catalyst less mpg and 72bhp
| Aug-1989 | VW Golf     | CL+GL standard c/l.  GL gets big bumpers. GL retains 
			   absence of driving lights.
| Aug-1989 | VW Golf GTI | New gearbox code 'AUG' has lower 2nd gear, much better 
			   acceleration as hits 3rd gear at better revs
| Aug-1990 | VW Golf GTI | No e/w(548 option) Standard Fogs, pas, sunroof, c/l     
| Aug-1991 | VW Golf GTI | standard e/w, bbs Alloys, trim and upholstery as 16v    

err...My '87 Golf's clutch has been making a rubbing/scraping sound for about 4 
or 5 years - 45k miles.  Does this necessarily mean that a breakage is 
imminent? (The noise just appeared, and has never got worse).

Hi,

The noise might just be a clutch release bearing or input shaft perhaps. If so, 
it's not an indication of a catastrophic problem, especially if you know the car.  

If buying an unknown, I'd just be inclined to look at other examples.
Rob.

Oh dear, there goes my chance of flogging it!



err...flogging as in "selling", not as in "whipping with a branch".

Cheers.

Could some kind person with a Golf GTI manual covering the F reg 8V model
please look up for me how to turn off the intermittent rear windscreen
wiper (without turning off the engine)

My car came with no instruction manual, and there seems no obvious way to
do this.  (I expect the answer will be so obvious I will kick myself!)

Thanks,

CArol Gilroy.

    
    Quite simple.... it is a toggle, press the stalk back to turn the
    function on, and again to turn it off.
    
    Now it took me 6 months to find out that there was an intermittent
    position on the front wiper :-(
    
    Also, that backwards motion of the stalk can generate a lot of stress 
    in the plastic (mine broke after about 75,000 miles, it had been
    getting stiffer and stiffer over the previous months) And the
    replacement cost about 90 pounds including labour at a VW dealer.
    
    

    RE: .264
    
    With my Mondeo the first time I took it for a drive, after buying it,
    the rear window was a bit misted up and somehow I got the intermittent
    wiper going it took about � hour of pushing, pulling, cursing... to
    somehow make it stop. Lucky enough I had the "user's guide" at home -
    and it was a simple push on the end of the wiper "stalk" that starts
    and stops it!
    
    Dave