Conference terri::cars_uk

    Reviving a very old topic...
    
    One of the wires that supplies the heated rear window with power has
    come off on my Espace. Does anyone out there know how it should be
    fixed back on?
    
    Is there a glue that conducts electricity? Is superglue conductive?
    
    Any suggestions welcome.
    
    Thanks
    
    John. 

    John,
    
    There is some conductive paint I got from Charlie Brown's can't
    remember what it's called, I just went and asked for "some of the stuff
    to fix heated rear windows"!!!
    
    Greg

Use a sticky-pad, or glue, to fix the connector back to the windscreen.  Then
use the conductive paint to "join" the connector to the heated strip.  The
paint's also useful for repairing breaks in the heated strip (if it's the
surface mounted variety).

Scott

    
    Thanks guys, that sounds like it could work - I'll give it a try.
    
    John.

    
    Update on refixing the broken wire on my heated rear window.
    
    Got some conductive paint, stuck the wire back on with super glue,
    painted over the connection. Works like a treat. Well it lights up my
    test lamp. Have to wait until winter to see if it warms the window as
    well!
    
    Thanks for the tips.

For those without the benefit of a DECwindows interface to Notes, the previous
note said:

Conductive epoxy glues are available - silver loaded - look in an RS catalogue!

By "RS Catalogue", I don't think that Dave (you are THE Korman in NaC?) meant 
the bolt-on goodies book for Escorts (spoilers, walnut veneer revolving ash 
trays; 24" auto-peeling go-faster baby-on-board stickers - that sort of thing); but
rather "Radio Shack", a USA shop chain. I believe that they're known as
Tandy in the UK.

    
    I think he more likely was refering to the electrical company RS
    who sell lots of absolutely useless electrical components are 
    hughly inflated prices. :^)
    
    
    
    Until you need one and then they're a brilliant idea!
    
    Mark

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Note 1952.0                      Steamy windows!                      No replies
PEKING::GERRYT                                        9 lines  16-NOV-1992 13:25
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    I've got problems with my Heated Rear Window element....
    
    There's a current to it, and a currnt at the other end (earth), but the
    window doesn't de-mist!
    
    Any ideas?
    
    Tim
    

    Anybody know the answer?  My Car has just developed the same problem. 
    Switch lights up, but window doesnt demist.  The radio, which uses the
    HRW element as an ariel, still works fine.
    
    John

    re .22
    
    When you say there is current to the HRW what do you mean ? Have you
    measured the current ? Have you measured the voltage across the HRW
    terminals, or the voltage between the terminals and ground ?
    
    Andrew

    Re .25
    
    Its a Rover 800 Series.  Before the HRW stopped working altogether, I
    noticed that two "elements" were not working.  Anyone got any ideas ?
    
    
    John (Annoyed cos this isnt covered by my warranty)

    re .26
    
    If just two element stop working that is probably because those
    elements were damaged. I.e. the conductive material on the glass got
    scraped off. These elements are rather prone to damage (especially if
    you carry long items in a hatchback or estate so that they touch the
    glass). They can sometimes be repaired with conductive 'paint', but
    this is not easy. (Sometimes the lines on the glass are actually
    several layers, with the top layer being insulating. In that case you
    have to remove the insulating layer before putting on the 'paint').
    
    It is possible (but unlikely) that all the remaining elements also got
    damaged in that way. More likely it is some other fault in the circuit,
    possibly where the wires are attached to the glass, or possibly where
    the wires flex to go between the main body and the hatch/tailgate.
    Should be easy enough to find with a voltmeter.
    
    Andrew

re.26

When I got my new 216 last year, I found the heated rear window did not work.
On investigation, this proved to be no more than the plug next on the rear
window not being properly seated. Quick push and it has been alright for 
a year.

	Dave

    ref 24
    
    I am not electrically literate!
    I only have a cheap multimeter.
    
    There is a current of over 10V feed to the window.
     "	"	"	"	"       from the other end of the heater
    element.
    I have cleaned up the earthing point metalwork under the earthing
    screw.
    I can't understand why it doesn't work.
    
    Conjecture...
    After the current leaves the fuse box, does it feed into a 'rectifier'
    (little black box) which sits on a circuit over the fuse box, and this
    then feeds the current?
    If so, and there was a fault with the black-box, might it not send
    too little current through to heat the elements up ?
    	
    Tim
    

    re .29
    
>    There is a current of over 10V feed to the window.
>     "	"	"	"	"       from the other end of the heater
>    element.
    
    (Ignoring the fact that you measure current in amps. I presume you mean
    'there is a voltage of over 10V...')
    
    A cheap multimeter is fine for this purpose.
    There should be a voltage of >10V at one end of the heater, and about
    0V at the other end. If both ends are at (or near) 12V then the problem
    is in the return circuit. If both ends are at 0V then the problem is in
    the supply circuit. There are no rectifiers in the circuit, but
    there may be a relay which is controlled by the switch (This saves
    having a switch and wiring capable of handling the HRW current). This
    relay will (probably) have 4 connections to it. 3 of these should be at
    12V and one at 0V. If only 2 are at 12V then the relay is broken. If
    only 1 then the switch (or wiring to the switch, or possibly the fuse
    or wiring between the fuse and relay) is broken. If all 4 are at 12V
    then the return circuit from the relay to ground is broken.
    
    Assuming that both ends of the HRW measure 12V from the ground, you
    need to find where the return circuit is broken. Start by connecting
    the meter between one side of the HRW and ground. You will see 12V. If
    you can tell which side of the HRW is supposed to be connected to
    ground then follow the wire from that point, checking the voltage to
    ground at every point you can. When you find a point which shows 0V to
    ground you have passed the break in the circuit (You should check that
    it is really connected to ground, by measuring the voltage between that
    point and the HRW - it is VERY easy to get confused if the meter shows
    0V because you did not make a good connection with the probes !).
    
    Andrew