| T.R | Title | User | Personal
Name | Date | Lines |
|---|
| 131.1 | Dry Stripping in yellow pages? | SALEM::NORCROSS_W | | Wed Apr 13 1994 10:57 | 6 |
| I don't know where you are located but try to locate a place
advertising "dry stripping". There are many new types of processes
now like plastic beads, glass, even baking soda. One would be
appropriate for what you are doing. They could probably also recommend
what to cover it with once done.
Wayne
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| 131.2 | is it really worth it? | CSLALL::NASEAM::READIO | A Smith & Wesson beats four aces, Tow trucks beat Chapman Locks | Wed Apr 13 1994 11:28 | 14 |
|
Glass beading will clean it and it'll get dirty again -- even if you
coat it -- because the surface is rough. The coating will only prevent
tarnishing, it won't keep it clean.
Spray it down regularly with a good cleaner and rinse the dissolved crud
away (a DIY car wash works pretty good for this) with soapy water.
...or get it polished.
BTW, you have to take it off to glass bead it. Most automotive machine
shops can class bead it for you as they normally glass bead cylinder head
combustion chambers and gasket surfaces when they do valve jobs.
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| 131.3 | | CSLALL::NASEAM::READIO | A Smith & Wesson beats four aces, Tow trucks beat Chapman Locks | Wed Apr 13 1994 11:29 | 4 |
|
.........and the clear protectorants tend to yellow over time and are a
pain to get off again.
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| 131.4 | | TINCUP::MFORBES | It's NOT your father's Chevy Vega | Wed Apr 13 1994 11:40 | 9 |
| >>> ...or get it polished.
Speaking of which, the intake system that I picked up this past weekend has some
very slight oxidation/haze to it (it's polished aluminum). What is a good way
to shine it back up? Is there a product that I can use with a rag or do I have
to go buy a buffing wheel?
Thanks,
Mark
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| 131.5 | Wenol orange tube stuff is super for getting the grunge off | CSLALL::NASEAM::READIO | A Smith & Wesson beats four aces, Tow trucks beat Chapman Locks | Thu Apr 14 1994 11:39 | 6 |
|
Wenol (orange tube, followed by purple tube)
Flitz (leaves a protective coating as well as obliterates minute scratches)
Simichrome
Mothers
actually, any good metal polish, finish w/ silver polish
|
| 131.6 | have you thought of powder coating | SSDEVO::DELMONICO | M_DelMonico "440's are forever" | Fri Apr 22 1994 09:42 | 5 |
|
You may want to look into "powder coating" the intake. This process
tends to fill the pores in the metal and produce a flat surface
which would collect less dirt.
|
| 131.7 | You could buy a marine manifold | SALEM::NORCROSS_W | | Mon Apr 25 1994 07:00 | 16 |
| In Trailer Boat mag this month is an ad from Edelbrock for a marine
version of their Performer and Performer RPM manifolds. To protect
against the effects of "the harsh marine environment" (ie: salt water,
etc) they "iridium coat" all external surfaces and all internal
surfaces of the water crossover passages or coated with a
multi-layered, chemically applied protective coating. Otherwise,
comparing pictures from the Hot Rod PAW ad, these manifolds look the
same as their automotive version. Even the Edelbrock part numbers are
close: for SBC auto = #2101, for SBC marine = #3101. Of course with
any part that is sold in the marine world there is a price difference.
In PAW ad for auto version: $97. Suggested retail for Marine version:
$252.95!!
Is there such a thing as iridium in a spray can or maybe your local
plating company could do it.
Wayne
|
| 131.8 | | CXCAD::C_WILLIAMS | Hammer | Wed May 11 1994 15:11 | 21 |
|
Hit the local plating company to have it done. No sprays.
Another possibility is anodizing. Most of the 'colored' aluminums are
anodized. As an example, the "Earl's" aluminum connectors for steel
braided lines (the blue and red connectors) are anodized aluminum. Be
careful, however, as it scratches quite easily. In fact, for working
on those aluminum connectors, they sell aluminum tools with the hope
that it'll scratch less than using hard steel tools. Colors tend to be
blue, red, black, gold, silver, and CLEAR. There is also a stronger
black called "hard black anodize". That is pretty tough to scratch.
The gold anodize may be iridium, as I believe that is a gold color.
Powder coating has come a LONG ways in the past five years or so. You
can now get any color imaginable with a variety of material types such
as epoxies, acrylics, and I can't remember what else. In the old days,
powder coating was tough but couldn't handle high temps and could
scratch quite easily. Best to talk to the powder coating dudes first,
and ask questions. If you don't use it, it's at least worth a tour of
the shop!
|
| 131.9 | NO anodizing of castings | TROOA::GILES | | Thu May 12 1994 17:41 | 14 |
| You CANNOT effectively anodize cast aluminum. It's too porous and the
chemical bath gets into these pores and eats them away. If the part is
anodized afterwords it looks like hell because the pores also hold
more dye than the smoother surfaces an these appear like black pinholes
(which they are!). Buffing and polishing the aluminum casting before
anodizing doesn't help much.
Powder coating or painting is the best bet. Try the paint route, it's
cheaper and if you don't like it it can be blasted off and then you can
try the powdercoat. I've had excellent results with paint by cleaning
the surface properly, priming, painting and then BAKING the items at a
minimum of 350 degrees.
Stan
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| 131.10 | | CXCAD::C_WILLIAMS | Hammer | Fri May 13 1994 10:34 | 15 |
|
Didn't quite think about the fact the intakes are CAST aluminum. All
I've ever anodized is machined (Gawd I'm sick of the word: BILLET)
aluminum. I've personally never anodized CAST Al.
I think there is a topic in here somewhere on powder coating. For
$100, you can do a whole rack of parts or an entire frame. It's
surprisingly cheap. My only concern is what kind of temperatures it
can handle. But now that there are a variety of types of Powder
Coating, one type must be able to handle fairly high temps.
Mine is painted. Easy, cheap, easy to touch up, easy to change.
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