| T.R | Title | User | Personal
Name | Date | Lines |
|---|
| 1626.1 | What is Wing Loading | LEDS::WATT | | Mon Sep 12 1994 13:44 | 8 |
| Bruce,
What is the wing loading on this project? Some scale projects
produce a pretty difficult model to fly if the loading is too high.
Canards can be tricky if it stalls before the wing. You can run out of
elevator on landings. Maybe why dual rates are recommended.
Charlie
|
| 1626.2 | | 30411::REITH | Jim WRKSYS::Reith MLO1-2/c37 223-2021 | Mon Sep 12 1994 13:48 | 7 |
| Bruce, could you post some of the other specs on the model? weight,
dimensions, wing area... I do like the Long EZ (I almost had my wife
talked into one before a local rolled his into a ball near the house,
killing himself)
I hope to be able to follow the construction this winter (my next
contract is looking more and more like it'll be outside DEC)
|
| 1626.3 | Advantage of RC | LEDS::WATT | | Mon Sep 12 1994 13:57 | 5 |
| That's the beauty of RC. You walk away from all of your crashes....
unless you manage to crash into yourself. :-(
Charlie
|
| 1626.4 | It ain't over yet 8^) | 30411::REITH | Jim WRKSYS::Reith MLO1-2/c37 223-2021 | Mon Sep 12 1994 14:01 | 1 |
| Yeah, and you get to practice your composite layup techniques 8^)
|
| 1626.5 | | DNEAST::MALCOLM_BRUC | | Mon Sep 12 1994 16:20 | 14 |
| This Long-EZ is a 1/5 scale version. 62.6" wing span, Weight is
6-7 lbs. and the wing area is 630 sq. in. Dave did say that you need
maximum elevator movement, or it will stall on landing. Maybe when I
get it built I'll bring it down for it's maiden flight.(before I re-kit
it!!) ;^(
This plane also can have the front wheel to retract.
How does the weight vs wing area sound?? I'm sure it's not trainer
type??
I would like a discussion on covering this bird. Would .045 birch
plywood be to heavy or is fiberglass the only way to go??
Bruce
|
| 1626.6 | | VMSSG::FRIEDRICHS | I'd rather be flying! | Mon Sep 12 1994 17:02 | 31 |
| I've never worked with birch.. I guess the real question is, what
are all of the layers between foam and the clear coat?
Normally, it would be something like...
foam
balsa/obeechi/?? sheeting
fiberglass cloth (with polyester or epoxy resin)
Layer of poly or epoxy to fill grain
paint
clear coat
If you replace the sheeting with .045 birch, you still need to seal
the grain. How much stronger (or weaker) it will be with the
birch I can't answer.
If you want to replace the paint and clear coat with Monokote, you
could probably do that. But you still have to have sheeting underneath
it. You might want to increase the thickness of the sheeting slightly
so that you do not melt the foam and you have a bit more strength.
Be careful though.. If they are sending you pre-cut foam core wings,
then you might want to use the layers they suggest so that you do not
change the airfoil too much.
Fiberglass and paint is more difficult but the results are worth it.
Look up the earlier note titled "Let Us Spray" (#288, I think) and it
talks all about fiberglass and paints.
cheers,
jeff
|
| 1626.7 | Pretty High Wing Loading | LEDS::WATT | | Mon Sep 12 1994 18:00 | 7 |
| at 7 lb, I work it out to 25.6 oz/sq ft. This is high wing loading but
not unflyable. Keep it as light as possible or you will have a
handful. Make sure that the CG comes out EXACTLY where it's supposed
to without needing added weight.
Charlie
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| 1626.8 | The GremTwin flew at near this wingloading... | 30411::REITH | Jim WRKSYS::Reith MLO1-2/c37 223-2021 | Mon Sep 12 1994 18:54 | 11 |
| Well a normal Gremlin wing is 588 sq inches and my twin was 6 pounds
and I felt that it was on the verge a bunch of the time. The big thing
to remember is to keep the speed up and stay away from stall speed.
Yeah, I guess I'm interested 8^) I personally will probably use obechi
(.024") with epoxy and maybe some CF and glass under the skins and then
the Red Devil spackle and water based poly for a sealer/finish/ I'd
then spray the final surface with epoxy paint. I would stay away from
polyester resin on a foam project because if ANY of it gets into the
core, you have a hollow wing real quick. I never trust that my epoxy on
the sheeting is enough of a barrier (plus I don't like using the
polyester resin indoors during the winter building season)
|
| 1626.9 | Not that Excessive | LEDS::WATT | | Tue Sep 13 1994 08:43 | 7 |
| There are plenty of scale projects at this wing loading - but most are
larger. High wing loading is worse on a small plane than on a larger
one. I agree with Jim on construction technique. I use epoxy
exclusively for glassing and I would sheet and monocote the wings.
Charlie
|
| 1626.10 | | 35989::BLUMJ | | Wed Sep 14 1994 11:13 | 2 |
| I have done experiments using 1/64"(.016") birch to sheet foam wings.
Unfortunately it comes out pretty heavy. Use balsa or obechi.
|
| 1626.11 | | DNEAST::MALCOLM_BRUC | | Mon Sep 19 1994 16:08 | 24 |
|
Recieved the kit last friday night. Opened the boxed and every thing
looks very nice. The wood was grade "A" no warping, checks, or twists.
There was some problems with the foam but nothing a sanding block
couldn't fix.
The wing comes in 6 pieces, "the root, middle, and tip (8 counting
the rudders.
What else has caught my eye is the tolerances. Measurements like
5. 21/32"
There is also a "Diagram of Measurements for the proper winglet
(rudder) positioning". This has 5 different measurements to comeup with
the right angle of the winglet.
I will say this plane will take all winter to do it right.
You can also order for 12.95, a scale documentation package. In the
package you get an 8x11 copy 3-view drawing of Mike Melvill's Long-EZ,
7 3x5 color photos of the plane from 6 different angles, a two page
letter from Mike stating the flying characteristics including his
airshow. Also a design and material for a canopy-stay...PLUS a detailed
drawing showing size and location of 6 "VORTILONS". These are used to
staighten the airflow over the wing. And last a reference list of mag.
articles which feature the Long-EZ. Looks like a must.
Bruce
|
| 1626.12 | | DNEAST::MALCOLM_BRUC | | Wed Mar 29 1995 17:20 | 24 |
|
Well I've got two more days as a DEC employee so I better try and fill
ya'll in on the plane.
The plane went together very easily. The hardest part was joining the
wing sections and COVERING!! That is a pain in the butt! Everything is
going OK with the covering it just takes a long time because it's my
first time.....
All I have left to do is to paint it, add some servos, and she is
ready!
I'm not sure that I am.
I'm going to paint the canopy a dark bronze, the plane will be White
with dark green trim, and I'm using Krylon paint. This being a pusher I
have little concern of fuel proofing.
It is a very pritty ship!!
Bruce
|
| 1626.13 | | RANGER::REITH | | Wed Mar 29 1995 17:38 | 13 |
| Hi Bruce. Where ya headed? Gonna have email access?
Thanks for the update. I hope to be able to see that plane on a visit to Sidney
sometime.
I'd worry about fuelproofing even still since it isn't too hard to spill fuel
while filling/topping off a tank. Also, handprints might be tough to get off if
you've got gooey hands from dealing with the stuff. Probably not a problem to
shoot a coating of K&B epoxy clear over the whole thing once you're done.
Best of luck and keep in touch.
Jim
|
| 1626.14 | | DNEAST::MALCOLM_BRUC | | Thu Mar 30 1995 09:25 | 19 |
|
We've been sold to the highest bidder....SCI Systems.
My job will stay the same for now but as you all know things could
change.
It is still up in the air if we will have e-mail OUTSIDE of this plant.
Probably not!!
I would like to thank all of you for the indepth knowledge of this
great sport you've shared over the past few years. I hope if/when I
get some free time I can get down south to see ya'll again. Take care
and may God bless!!
Bruce
|
| 1626.15 | Be careful with Krylon | WMOIS::WEIER | Keep those wings spinning! | Thu Mar 30 1995 10:03 | 23 |
|
Bruce,
If you have been keeping up with my entries in the "Let Us
Spray" note, you will see that the Jury is still out regarding Krylon.
In fact, I am still in the middle of testing the Krylon clear. I have
now let it dry for 5 days, tonight I will take a portion of the test
piece and expose it to raw fuel. I will delay "fuel testing" the
remainder of the test piece for another 2 days.
If you are just putting a base coat on, Definately use something like
Century 21, Formula U, or even rustoleum, all of which are fuelproof.
If you are using a clear coat, K+B seems the way to go to ensure both
fuel proofing and appearance.
Jim R. is right, just fingerprints/raw fuel spills could wreak the
finish. I would hate to see the finish on a nice looking Long Eze get
damaged.
Good luck in your future modeling and job activities.
Dan
|
| 1626.16 | | DNEAST::MALCOLM_BRUC | | Thu Mar 30 1995 10:29 | 13 |
| -Dan
Yes I have been reading with antisipation on the "let us spray" note
hoping to find an easy way out! The clear coating turning yellow scares
me. I was hoping that the results were in with the Krylon before they
unplug the notes file.
I am using Krylon primer now and still sanding if rustolium IS fuel
proof then I might switch to that, I'm looking for a perfect spray
job out of a can and I know it won't happen.
Bruce
|