Conference vmszoo::rc

    
    I just got off the phone ordering my ASP 91 2 stroker.  Seems they've
    redesigned the crank shaft on these and expect a shipment in the last
    calander week of April.  By then I should have the framework completed.
    I'm going to use the Davis Diesil I-so-mounts so installation of the
    eingine mount will be easy.  Simply drill the mounting holes to 1/4"
    diameter in the firewall and insert the Isomount.  Then when you
    tighten the bolts the rubber expands securing the isomount to the
    firewall.
    
    
    Tom

    
    
    Last nights work on the Jungmeister was installing the front balsa
    blocks,firewall and the cabane struts.  The front struts need to be
    installed before the sheeting can be attached.  This will cause
    problems and did last night but has to be lived with.  I started
    carving the top and bottom blocks.  Boy a job and a half.   The top
    block is about 1/2" to thick and 1/2" to wide.  Add to this that the
    corners get some serious rounding and there i about 1" of material to
    be removed.  Also those cabane struts I had to install are right in the
    area.  After about an hour of hacking away with a utility knife and
    then my modelers plane, I've got the top block to where I can take over 
    with my electric sandes to finish the rough work.  It's actually
    starting to look like the nose of a Jungmeister.
    
    I forgot,  I added some fuse side stringers and rough out the vertical
    stab.  The stab is made from a piece of 1/8" balsa with a 1/4" square
    stick on both sides at the rudder hinge line.  The to this you add 1/8
    x 1/4" sticks where the ribs are located.  These 1/8 x 1/4" sticks are
    then block sanded to for the shape of the ribbed airfoil.
    
    Tonight before my club meeting I hope to get to some of the rough
    sanding and possible sheet the right side of the nose.  This will leave
    the front deck, around the cockpit and the read deck left for sheeting.
    
    I've been toying with the idea of cutting some lightening holes in the
    stabs, rudder and elevator.  Al indicated that his "Yellow Pearl" is
    tail heavy requiring him to add lead to the nose.  But then again, Al
    is using an OS60 and I'll be running a 91 with a metal engine mount.
    Any ideas?
    
    Tom 

    
    Work on the Jungmeister was very limited last night as I had a club
    meeting to run.  I did manage to get the right side nose sheeting done
    and added some wood filler at a few locations.  This should be hard
    today and I'll be able to sheet the remainder of the fuse tonight.
    That will allow me to rough sand all of the carved blocks and give
    this bird that distinctive bull nose rounded front.
    
    Yesterday UPS devivered my new Fiberglas Masters cowl.  Very nice unit.
    It has all of the engine blisters molded in and looks quite good.
    The mold used to make the cowl is interesting in that it's a three
    piece unit.  You can tell bebause of the three mold lines that will get
    sanded out in the finishing process.
    
    More later,  actually hope to get the wings built by the end of easter
    day.
    
    Tom

    
    It's been a few day since I was at work(long weekend vacation) and
    quite a bit has been dome on the Jungmeister.
    
    I finished up the sheeting of the fuse on thursday evening and then
    went to work on the tail feathers.  These are 1/8" balsa with a 1/4
    square on the top and bottom at the hinge lines then 1/8 x 1/4" balsa
    strips are glued down where the ribs are simulated and then sanded into
    shape.  the vertical and horizontal stabs are simply rounded off at the
    LE.  The rudder and elevator are straight tapers from 1/4" to nothing
    at the TE.  This done I started work on the wing.
    
    The wings are opwn structure with a 3/8 x 1/4" laminated spar on the
    top and bottom with an additional 1/4" spar rearward.  The TE is a 1 x
    1/8" sheet layed flat with the TE of the ribs notch out to accept this
    sheet.  LE is 3/4" square material.  You assemble both outer panels for
    either the top or bottom wing.  This includes the assembly of the
    ailerons.  Then a center section is assembled and the outer panels are
    joined to the center section.  The Bottom wing had app. 1 1/4"
    dyhedral. To date I have the bottom wing framed up.  I need to add some
    balsa filler material where the wing bolts go and then sheet the center
    section with 1/16 balas and the glass this area.  I should get to this
    tonight.  Then it's on to the top wing.
    
    I've ordered a cockpit kit from Pica and am waiting for this before I
    install the wing hold down blocks. Once installed I'll be able to
    install the elevator and rudder servos and make up the control linkgae
    for the tail wheel.  The tailwheel sits app. 4" forward of the rudder
    and I'm going to install a seperate rod to actuate this.
    
    
    Tom

    
    I finished up sheeting the bottom wing with 1/32" plywood in place of
    the 1/16 balsa.   There is no, yes (NO) fiberglas required on either
    the top or bottom wing.  Oh well...
    
    Presently the construction is almost complete.  The top wing is
    finished and mounted to the cabanes.  The bottom wing is done and
    mounted to the fuse excepting it's missing the pushrod and bellcrank
    assemblies to control the ailerons.  The tail was mounted last night
    along with the vertical.  One fairing block was carved,sanded and
    installed.  One more to go.  I only need to install the last fairing
    block, sand the airframe and make the wing struts and the plane is
    ready for covering.
    
    Talking to Al the other day he mentioned tha if he were to do it over
    againg he'd modify the cabanes to make them more rigid.  So taking that
    advise i added a modified strut between the two main cabane struts. 
    The "Z" strut starts at the bottom of the rear main strut and angles up
    to the top of the front strut. Then it takes a rearward bend running
    parallel to the bottom surface of the top wing and is secured at the
    top of the rear strut.  Three attachment points. Seemed to really
    stiffen up these struts.
    
    I have golf tonight and need to make it to the hobby store before I
    make the wing outer struts so I don't expect to get much accomplished
    tonight.  Perhaps the remaining rear fairing block.  I also installed
    a seperate pushrod for the tailwheel.  Still waiting for my 21" roll
    of worldtex from Balsa USA, cockpit kit from PICA and my engine/engine
    mount from INDY.  I did get a card from INDY or friday indication my
    engine would be shipped to me withing 15 days.  Luckly using the Davis
    Diesel engine Iso-mounts will allow me to install the engine after the
    airframe has been finished.
    
    
    Tom

    Tom,
    	Two things to be careful of with the Davis mounts:
    
    
    First, don't tighten the screws too much or the rubber piece will break
    where the screw threads go in.  It doesn't have to be very tight to
    hold.
    
    Second, the screws stick through a bunch and can puncture your fuel
    tank if it can shift forward in a hard landing.  Make sure that can't
    happen.  Someone I know actually drilled a hole in his tank when he
    installed these mounts on a plane.
    
    Charlie
    

    
    Thank's Charlie,
    
    I'm running a J'Tech mount and the Jungmeister only allows for a 12 oz
    tank.  Installing the engine side mounted allows sufficient clearance
    on either side of the tank.  
    
    I still need to cut out a 1/4" plywood firewall and secure it to the
    1/8" firewall supplied in the kit.  Once I locate where the engine
    mounting holes go I plan to drill out the existing 1/8" plywood
    firewall and the 3/$" thick balsa collar that the firewall is glued to 
    out to 3/8" side holes.  The new 1/4" firewall will have the 1/4"
    holes drilled in it to accept the Iso-mounts.  This will hopefully
    allow the mounts to slip threw the 1/4" firewall and have some area to
    expand.  
    
    I know, 12 oz doesn't sound like enough fuel.  Fact is my OS108
    (90 is the same size case with smaller piston) is very fuel efficient.
    
    O can fill up the 16 oz tank I have in my dragon lady and fly for 10+
    minutes and still have a few ounces of fuel remaining.  I hope to get
    10+ minutes with the ASP 90.  That is sufficient time for me. 
    Heck, it will give me a reason to land:-).  I'm really excited and
    can't wait to get this bird flying.  At 60" span with a fuse width of
    app. 7" and fuse height of 10" the top wing stands 15-18" off of the
    floor,  this plane has a "Presence" about it.
    
    
    Tom 

    
    Last night I got some time to work on the cockpit interior.  Presently
    the dash board is finished and will be installed once I cover the front
    deck.  I also started to make the interplane struts and ended up
    breaking two of the gray nylon fittings supplied in the kit.  Al had
    mentioned these were brittle and he was right.  I'll most likely do
    some surgery tonight and remove the remaining ones from the wings and
    replace them with Goldberg hardware that is not brittle. I aalso
    finished up the fairing blocks for the tail feathers and installed the
    cockpit floor.  I'm still awaiting the covering from Balsa USA and will
    have to give them a call to find out were it is.
    
    Later.
    
    
    
    Tom

    Last night I cut out the gray "N" strut fittings and replaced them with
    the Goldberg hardware.  the fitting seems a little bit thinner but a
    much more flexable material.  I also tried my hand again at covering
    with the new 21st century fabric covering at a much lower temp.  It so
    far seem to have worked much better.  I still have a problem with a few
    small corners that end up with a bubble of fabric that will not stay
    down.  Luckily for me it at the bottom of the rudder post.  I have
    ordered a 15' roll of fabric from Balsa USA that I'm waiting for (in
    yellow the major base color of the bird), but the rudder will end up
    being red.  Since this will need paint anyways, I figured I'd give the
    21st fabric another try.  I also have to cover the landing gear.  This
    will also get paint so it will be another test bed for the covering.
    I picked up a 1/4 scale pilot and it looks a lot better like the
    picture of the full scale bird I have.  The 1/5 pilot just looked too 
    small.  I hope to finish up all of the little details that need to be
    done before covering, including installing the servos and controls this
    weekend so I can jump on the covering job once the yellow gets here.
    
    Still waiting for the engine.  I also need to pick up a can of yellow,
    red and black paint.
    
    
    Tom

    
    Work has again started since I recieved my covering from Balsa USA.
    
    To date the fuse bottom and sides and tail feathers are covered, along
    with the top wing and it's two ailerons.  I've left the rear turtle
    deck stringers uncovered to facilitate the installation of the
    pull/pull cables for the rudder and the pushrod for the elevator.  Once
    these are installed I'll finish up covering these stringers.  I've also
    left the area between the vertical and horizontal stab and the sheeted
    areas at the cockpit and nose uncovered.  These will get plastic film
    to resemble being covered in metal.
    
    Color scheme is a combination of a couple of pictures I have.  The
    entire aircraft is yellow with a wide red bar at each wingtip on the
    top wing.  Inside these bars is a white cross.  The tail feathers are
    all yellow except for the rudder which is red with a white cross.  The
    cowl is yellow and there is a black stripe that starts at the top and
    bottom of the fuse directly behind the cowl and then tapers to a point
    at the cockpit.  Adjacent to the cockpit is a green heart.  The
    aircraft ID number is in black block letters on each fuse side and the
    bottom of the bottom wing.  The landing gear is yellow.  Interior of
    the cockpit is aluminum with a brown headrest.
    
    Still waiting for the motor.
    
    
    Tom

    Last night I finished up covering the top wing.  The design of this
    plane has no sheeting on the wings.  Hence the ribs show up threw the
    covering.  So, to wach rib location I've added a piece of covering app.
    3/16" wide to simulate a rib covering.  I added these thin strips to
    the vertical and horizontal stabs and the rudder as well.  Tonigt I'll
    start the control installation for the rudder and elevators.  This done
    I'll be able to finist covering the stringers that make up the
    turtle deck.  My Ultracote yellow covering should be in within a few
    days and that will allow me to finish up the fuse.
    
    I did make it to my local hobby store last night to pick up some odds
    and ends needed to finish the covering job.  In the bag going home were
    three cans of spray paint (for the cowl, fuse side stripe and rudder)
    and a number of misc. items.  Our club building contest is a week from
    today.  I doubt I can get it finished enough to enter it.
    
    
    Tom
    
    PS  Still waiting for my engine from Indy RC
    
    

    
    
    Over the weekend I finished up the one lower wing aielron I'd missed
    finishing, finished installing the bottom 1/32 plywood center section
    sheeting, installation of the front wing bolt (this was my option)
    and finished making the "N" strutts for the wings.
    
    I still need to hinge the rudder and elevator halves, install the
    rudder and elevator servos and control hook-up's and then I can finish
    covering the fuse.  Once this is done I can finish up the cockpit
    interior and then paint the fuse and cowl.
    
    
    Tom

    
    It's been awhile and I've been rather busy with yard work to do
    anything on the Jungmeister but have made a little progress.
    
    I've installed the elevator halves and the rudder and run tubing
    threw the fuse for the cable pull/pull rudder control and an opening
    for the elevator push rod.  this done I covered the top rear turtle
    deck stringers with fabric.
    
    My ASP 91 came in a few weeks ago.  Looking at mounting this I ended up
    running into a problem.  The kit was designed around beam mounts for
    the engine with the fuel tank sitting on these mounts behind the
    engine.  With the noise requirements we have at our field, I wanted to
    rubber mount the engine so opted to install the beams (for structural
    reasons) and then cut them off flush with the kit firewall.  Trying to
    install the engine now using a radial mount ended up putting one or
    more of the mounts into the space for the fuel tank.  Hummmm...
    
    what to do??  Well, I'd also wanted to use the davis diesel iso-mounts
    set-up nad also needed to figure out a way of mounting the cowl.
    
    What I ended up doing...
    
    
    
    
    OK,  I started with a 7" box drawn on a piece of 1/4" plywood.  Inside
    this I drew a 5" box.  Thge stock round firewall being 5" in diameter
    and the cowl being 7" in diameter.  I then drew four arms out from the
    corners of the 5" box to the 7" box. Where the arem intersected the 5"
    box the angle was flared out.  This was then cut out on the bandsaw to
    give me a 5" square with arms edtending out from the corners.  I then
    located the engine mount onto this new 1/4" firewall and drilled the
    mounting holes.  Fron the rear of the firewall I counter sunk the holes
    to accept a countersunk bolt. I mounted the engine mount to the 1/4"
    ply with four bolts from the rear of the ply with the nuts adjacent to
    the front face of the engine mount.  This assembly was then positioned
    against the fuse firewall and four mounting holes were positioned to
    accept the davis diesel iso-mounts at the four corners of the 5"
    square.  The holes in the fuse were enlarged to 1/4" to accept the
    iso-mounts and the assembly secured.  In trhis way I can still remove
    this new firewall and get at the tank yet the engine assembly is rubber
    mounted.  The four arms are used as mounting points for the cowl.  One
    interesting side benifit is that whenever I do an adjustment to the
    Isomounts for vibration or thrust alignment the cowl is part of the
    assembly.  Hence, the relationship of the prop to cowl never changes.
    
    The engine is side mounted and will require a slight modification to
    the davis diesel pitts style muffler to provide clearance. 
    
    I should commence ernest work on this project tonight.  I'm hoping to
    fly this bird by the 17th of this month at our club meeting at our club
    field.  As a rule we meet at the field during the months of june, july
    and august.
    
    
    Tom

    
    Last night I installed the servo rails and the elevator, rudder and
    throttle servos.  I'm running 4031's on the elevator, rudder and
    eventually the ailerons.  I also made and installed the elevator push
    rod.  This being made from a fiberglas arrow shaft with a 4/40
    threaded end at the elevator end and a music wire with "z" bend
    at the servo.  I then proceeded with installing a clevis arrangement
    onto the tail wheel puchrod.  This plane has the tailwheel app. 4"
    in front of the rudder hinge line.  The plans call for a slip fitting
    with an intricate bent tailwheel wire to intersect the rudder push rod.
    Hearing this ends up as a problem area (Al C.) I decided to run a wire
    pushrod inside of a plastic jacket internally to the tailwheel.  This I
    hooked up last night.  I then proceeded to start to cover the front
    area of the fuse with plastic film.  The nose is interesting and
    difficult because of the bull nose rounded section.  A lot of heat and
    time do however yield a smooth finish.  
    
    
    Tom

    Last night I went over a fellow modelers and picked up a used
    aeromaster (original Andrews kit) for 50.00  .   It needs some work to
    get back into flying condition as one wing LE is crushed about 6" and
    the elevators have been pieced together with a plywood splice.  The
    plane is all white with german crosses so it will most likely also get
    some Formula "U" in yellow or red on the bottom of the bottom wing and
    horizontal stab.
    
    The Jungmeister got a little attention late last night with the
    addition of a few pieces of Ultracote on the sheeted sections of the
    fuse.  These film pieces are being cut to kind of simulate the metal
    sheeting. Kind of...   I should get to the remaining film covering
    tonight and possibly even start on the installation of the cockpit
    kit. 
    
    
    Tom

    
    Over this past weekend I finished up the covering job on the fuse of
    the Jungmeister.  I also fit and installed the cockpit kit and the
    MGA 1/4 scale pilot's bust.  The plastic sheets of the cockpiot are
    painted aluminum with the dial faces stuck to this.  the side pieces
    are glued to conform to the curved fuse sides and then were painted.
    I hope to install a push/pull rod type one/off RX switch into the
    control board of the cockpit.
    
    Last night I painted the tank compartment, and F1 area with white
    Plast-Enamel and this morning put on a second coat.  This will seal up
    this area and allow me to do the final installation of the tank and
    engine firewall/cowl.  This week I'll work on finishing up the bottom
    wing, installing the control system and covering.  Maybe if the weather
    holds this weekend will see the black paint sprayed on the fuse and
    cowl.  I need to get to the top wing and paint the red bands on the
    wing tips some time this week.  That way I can mask them off for the
    white crosses.
    
    
    Tom

    
    One interesting note...
    
    As I was covering the nose of the Jungmeister I was faced with that
    big round bull nose of the fuse.  The covering just didn't seem to want
    to fit. I could cut a number of seams and do it with strips but I
    didn't want to see all od those seams. What to do??  I ended up doing
    something I'd read years ago and finally found in my gray matter.  
    
    I started the sheet off by positioning it and then securing the
    rearward seam.  I then secured the lower and center edges.  This
    resulted in a rather large excess of covering at the rounded nose.  I
    proceeded by heating the covering and pulling it forward over the nose.  
    This resulted in shrinking the excess away and securing it to the round
    nose. I then trimmed and secured the forward edge.  Thre were still
    some smaller ripples of covering at the nose.  With a little heat
    applied sparingly I was able to clean these up and produce quite a good
    looking nose job.  I fowled up one small area using to much heat but it
    will be hard to see with the cowl on.
    
    
    tom

     Little work accomplished after golf.  Did get two coats of 
    Plastic-enamel on the firewall and the Rx switch installed
    threw the dash board on a push/pull set-up.  Oh, forgot, I 
    installed the tank.
    
    
    Tom

    When last I update this note I'd hoped to have my Jungmeister ready for
    my clubs June meeting.  This did not happen.  However I do see the
    light at the end of the tunnel.  Lately I've been finishing the radio
    installation and fine tuning the "N" strutts.  I still need to finish
    some detail with a black stripe on the fuse and the ID numbers on the
    fuse sides and bottom right underside wing panel.  Tuesday I tried to
    paint the cowl and ended up making a mess with a bad can of Formula U.
    Last night I sanded down the cowl so now it awaits a second try (with
    a different can).  I'll probably now do the test hops without the cowl.
    Last night I also installed a solid wire throttle pushrod and did most
    of the work installing a pull/pull cable set-up for the rudder. 
    Tonight I should complete the rudder control installation and turn my 
    attention to the aileron servo installation.  If I get this done I
    might just try and get the fuse masked off so that I can spray  the
    black stripe on sat.  
    
    Writing this, I didn't realize really how close I am to having this
    kit flight ready.  I'm pumped now...
    
    Tom