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Conference vmszoo::rc

Title:Welcome To The Radio Control Conference
Notice:dir's in 11, who's who in 4, sales in 6, auctions 19
Moderator:VMSSG::FRIEDRICHS
Created:Tue Jan 13 1987
Last Modified:Thu Jun 05 1997
Last Successful Update:Fri Jun 06 1997
Number of topics:1706
Total number of notes:27193

920.0. "Low Power Electrical Connectors (Recvr, servo, etc.)" by AUGGIE::SEGOOL () Tue Mar 07 1989 08:45

    
    I currently have a Futaba radio and I'm thinking of buying
    an Airtronics radio. The main reason for the Aitronics is 
    that they are certified for 1991. My question is, are the charging
    connectors for these radios different of would I have to make up
    different connectors to attach the radios to the same charger/cycler?
    Both the receiver and transmitter connectors are in question. Thanks.
    
    Mike
T.RTitleUserPersonal
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920.4ConnectorsLEDS::LEWISTue Mar 07 1989 13:439
    
    Airtronics and Futaba use completely different connectors.  They
    are _definitely_ not compatible.  I like the Airtronics connectors
    better because they don't leave those three pins sticking out
    waiting to get bent.  The male connector has a sleeve that protects
    the pins.
    
    Bill
    
920.5and...LEDS::LEWISTue Mar 07 1989 13:4810
    
    Forgot to mention that I'm not sure about compatibility between
    the Airtronics and Futaba transmitter charging jacks (last memo
    was about the airplane side).  I think the jacks are the same but
    not sure about polarity.  Simple thing to check.  I assume this is
    an issue because you don't want to use the factory charger that comes
    with the system?
    
    Bill
    
920.6Round Peg Square HoleLEDS::WATTTue Mar 07 1989 13:579
    Airtronics and Futaba Charging Jacks are similar but NOT compatible.
    Servo connectors are not compatible either.  The best thing to do
    is stick with one brand if you already have some equipment so that
    you can mix and match servos, chargers, and cyclers.  I wish I had
    followed this advice and saved the trouble of making adapters for
    my cycler and charger.
    
    Charlie
    
920.7Try Dean's for compatibilityPEE47::COXSo Speedy, how do we get zeez brains?Tue Mar 07 1989 15:3023
    Many of the more experienced members of our club convert their systems
    over to Dean's connectors, shich are available from ACR R/C and most
    large mail order places and local hobby shops.  Here's how:
    
    Buy a handful of Servo pigtails that match your Rx, lets say Futaba. 
    Solder a Dean's three pin connector to the other side.  
    
    Solder Dean's connectors to all your servos.  The beauty of this is its
    easy to take advantage of different servos in your collection and also
    the great buys of Royal and ACE servos which can be had with leads only
    or Dean's connectors installed.
    
    Use Dean's charging jacks and put Dean's connectors on your battery,
    charger, ESV, etc.
    
    You may ask why convert to Dean's and not all Futaba, JR, AirTronics,
    etc.?  Simple, Dean's is inexpensive, easy to find, allows you to build
    your own harnesses -AND- they are easy to use!
    
                --|--             Happy (con)Trails!
                 (O)             
          _______/ \_______       Scott Cox
    
920.8EZ as 12345678K::FISHEROnly 7 Days till Phoenix!Tue Mar 07 1989 16:0617
>    You may ask why convert to Dean's and not all Futaba, JR, AirTronics,
>    etc.?  Simple, Dean's is inexpensive, easy to find, allows you to build
>    your own harnesses -AND- they are easy to use!

Can't tell you how many times I've been tricked into thinking that the
heat shrink tubing that comes with the deans connectors actually fits.

Slide the heat shrink on the wires, solder the wires, try to slide the 
heat shrink back, curse, cut all the wires, slide larger radio shack
heat shrink on the wires, solder the wires, slide the heat shrink back.

Real easy:=)

Bye          --+--
Kay R. Fisher  |
---------------O---------------
================================================================================
920.13I say No to the Dean's FixLEDS::WATTThu Mar 09 1989 11:4213
    I think that converting to Dean's connectors is costly and risky.
    Cost wise, a pigtail for futaba is about $5 where a whole servo
    is only about $15 on sale.  Adding another connector to each servo
    pigtail reduces reliability.  Connectors can separate and the place
    where vibration causes broken wires is at the solder joint on
    connectors.  The solder wicks up the wire strands and stress develops
    right where the solder ends.  I recommend avoiding modifying or
    soldering any flight pack connections.  THe manufacturer has tried
    to minimize this problem and an inexperienced customer can really
    screw things up with bad solder connections.
    
    Charlie
    
920.15Why do they do This?LEDS::WATTFri Mar 10 1989 08:486
    As was mentioned here before, Futaba's new stuff is NOT connector
    compatible with the older AM stuff like the Conquest.  Therefor,
    you can stay with Futaba and still have a round peg and square hole.
    
    Charlie
    
920.16Deans connector wiring standard?COOKIE::R_TAYLORRichard TaylorFri Jan 24 1992 01:0526
    Well, a good idea or not, I have decided to go the Deans connector
    route for my batteries.  The idea is to get Sanyo Rx packs ($9.00 from
    Tower), Radio Shack DPDT switches ($1.50) and Deans connectors for the
    charging jack ($6.50 for 6 from Tower).  I intend to solder the battery
    to the switch directly and then put on two connectors, one a Deans for
    charging and the other a manufacturers for plugging into the Rx.  The
    total cost is about $14 compared to $25 to $30 for the manufacturers
    battery and switch. 
    
    My only question is whether there is a standard way of wiring up Deans
    connectors?  I have the 3 pin connectors as they are on special now and
    you effectively need three pins for proper polarization.  How do people
    wire these up for servo connectors? 
    
    If the connector is:
    
              pin, gap, pin, pin
    
    I would have thought that the best thing would be to have ground in the
    middle and wire up a servo connector as:
    
             power, gap, ground, signal
    
    and that the power connection would be the same without the signal.  Or
    maybe I should ground the signal as well.  How does anyone else do it?  
                        
920.17Here's how I do itOLCROW::PHILLIPSDECtp Engineering TAY1-2 DTN 227-4314Fri Jan 24 1992 09:0524
I use the Deans 3 pin connectors on all my battery packs. I swap one male and
female pins on each connector like so:


		      ----------------------------
		      |		|		 |
  ------------>	      | signal  |  power   gnd   |
  |		      | female  |  male    male  |
  |		      ----------------------------
  |				    ||      ||    <------ male pins
connector blocks					|
  |							|
  |			  || <---------------------------
  |		      ----------------------------
  |		      |	male	| female   female|
  ------------>	      | signal  |  power   gnd   |
		      |         |                |
		      ----------------------------

I think I picked this one tip up from the ol' Desert Rat hisself!  I believe
this wiring setup(signal, power, gnd) is the way Futaba and JR packs and serovs
use.

-Lamar
920.18CLOSUS::TAVARESJohn -- Stay low, keep movingFri Jan 24 1992 10:103
Yes, though I've since standardized on Airtronics, my deans connectors
are wired with signal,gap,power ground.  This is the pattern
recommended by ACE when I put my radio together.
920.19JR 321 servo wiring ?KBOMFG::KNOERLEMon Jan 27 1992 09:306
    I need to convert my JR 321 servos to our Multiplex connectors. There
    is an orange, red and brown cable. Could someone please tell me what is
    what ? (Signal, +, GRND)
    
    
    Bernd
920.20The answer is closer than you might think...KBOMFG::KLINGENBERGMon Jan 27 1992 12:228
    Re.:-.1
    
    Bernd,
    
    schau' doch mal in den CONRAD Katalog in Deinem Schreibtisch...
    
    Liebe Gruesse,
                   Hartmut
920.21ExperiencesCOOKIE::R_TAYLORRichard TaylorTue Jan 28 1992 16:0712
    Well I did it.  Next time I will change the following: 
    
    1. I used an open Radio Shack DTDP slide switch, (2 for 89 cents), and
    wrapped the switch in duct tape to keep out dirt etc.  Next time I will
    use a better switch that is already sealed. 
    
    2. After wiring up the switch with ground on one side and power on the
    other, I looked inside a spare Futaba switch.  They use a DPDT switch
    but common the ground and connect the power to both poles of the
    switch. The ACE catalog also suggests that you wire up their switch in
    this way.  I suppose that it is in case one pole fails, you still have
    the other.  Next time I will follow the industry standard.