Conference vmszoo::rc

    Kay, 
    
    There used to be a coupla' backplateless plastic spinners on the
    market but you may be out-of-luck for an aluminum one.  I know it'll
    hurt like fire, but you just may have to bite the bullet and cut
    the nose back to provide clearance for a backplate.  As you now
    know, you should "always" fit the spinner during construction, if
    only to properly shape the nose contour smoothly into the spinner.
    
    Hope you find something..., adios,	Al

    Kay,
    
    Wait a minute...a light just came on.  Seems like I just read about
    a new line of backplateless aluminum spinners in a recent new product
    review.  Lemme check it out over the weekend and I'll letcha' know
    what I find on Monday.  Whatever I saw had to be in this month's
    issue of either M.A.N., Model Aviation or SR/CM iy ya' want to do
    some checking at yer' end.  The only hitch might be availability,
    i.e. if it's a brand new product, it may not be in the shops yet
    and you'd have to try to get one direct from the mfgr.
    
    Adios,	Al

    Bingo,  I finally thought of one of the two spinners I had in mind.
    Hobby Lobby sells the spinners in packs of six for 6.99.  They
    come in assorted colors, and one of each of the following sizes come
    in the pack; Size 1.5, 1.75, 2.0, 2.25, 2.5, and  2.75 in.  These
    are plastic spinners, that don't need backplates.  
    
    If you'd like, send me VAX mail @ arcana::jorgensen with you LOC/MS
    and I'll send you a copy of the page along with the order blank.
    I've ordered from Hobby Lobby, and the order comes to the Boston area
    within about a week.  They are VERY reliable, and their graupner props
    are GREAT also(you may wish to try them... one prop takes alot of abuse.)
    I'm note sure if you need an aluminum spinner, but I'm quite sure
    someone makes one... just give me some time and it'll come!!! ;-).
    Or Al will surely come up with it, if I don't.

    /Brian ...keep um out of the trees 

    Re: -.5,
    
    Brian's reply solved the mystery for me too.  I pored through all
    three current magazines this weekend, finding nothing, and was
    beginning to think I must be losing my grip.  Brian's mention of
    the Hobby Lobby catalog evoked a "EUREKA!" as I now remember seeing
    the backplateless spinners as a new item in the new 1988 Tower Hobbies
    catalog.  Now all I have to do is find the ad and determine whether
    they were aluminum or not.  For your application I shouldn't think
    it'd make much difference whether the spinner was plastic or metal,
    especially if it saves you having to hack up the Jeep's nose to
    accomodate a backplate.                 
    
    Adios,	Al

    
    	ROYAL offers a backplateless spinner. The front screws off to
    reveil the prop nut. They are plastic.
    						Tom

Do Fox still make spinners. I have used the 1 1/2" Slim Jim for many years but 
they have now become near impossible to get. I must have a spun metal 
spinner for the strength at speed. Plastic spinners are not safe above 
15-18,000 RPM.

John.

    Yes, how many you want? 50 or 60??
    
    					Tom
    
    P.S. The conical apinner has been discontinued

    John,
    
    A minor point you were likely already aware of, but Fox spinners
    are machined from aluminum bar stock on a lathe, not spun from sheet
    stock. That's what makes `em so tough, true and popular (as well as 
    expensive).
    
    Adios,	Al

Thanks guy's, I don't think the bank balance could stand 50-60 though. I pay 
the equivalent of US$35 (thats as of 0800 Fri. Our dollar is slipping badly so 
it could be $40 by tonight.)

Could you give me the name and address of a mail order store that takes Amex or 
Visa and I will drop them a line.

Al,

I have always thought they were a spun spinner, did not realize they were 
machined. The sure are tough, I have found the spinner still usable when the 
engine is has been scrap.

Thanks

John.
    

  FYI - I just got a copy of the Hobby Lobby cat. and they offer aluminum
backplate-less spinners.  
  This is a copy of the text:

  The Kavan Spinner.

  These are polished aluminum - attractive on your airplane, perfectly
balanced, and can't be skinned up by an electric starter!  And, the 
forward section of the spinner acts as the prop washer so there's no
backplate to fiddle with.  When you break a prop you just pull off the
soft end cap, stick the Kavan extended prop wrench inside and
unscrew your prop nut.  Off comes spinner and prop.


  End of text:

  They appear to be aluminum with a black rubber tip.

  The prices (as of the October catalog) are:

  1 1/2" aluminum spinner ....$7.75
  1 3/4"    "       "     ....$8.15
  2"        "       "     ....$8.55
  2 1/4"    "       "     ....$8.90
  2 1/2"    "       "     ....$9.30



  Jim 

    Dan,
    
    The day _will_ come, sooner or later, when that el-cheapo Goldberg
    spinner will "pick on _you_," biting the hand (or worse) that feeds
    it!!  Do yer'self a favor: sh*tcan that piece of potentially dangerous
    junk before it nails you...as Marc says Fox, Tru-Turn, C&B (now
    Tatone) and others make very nice, true running and SAFE spinners.
    I'd sure hate to see you or anyone else get hurt by one of those
    time-bomb spinners.    

      |
      | |      00	 Adios,      Al
    |_|_|      ( >o
      |    Z__(O_\_	(The Desert Rat)

    RE: < Note 538.11 by PNO::CASEYA "THE DESERT RAT (I-RC-AV8)" >
    
    OK, Al.  I'll bite.  Since I'm fairly new to this notes file, I
    don't remember seeing WHY you don't like the Goldberg spinners.
    Could you please explain why or point me to the note(s) that tell
    why?
    
    FYI - I'm using one on my newly finished Electrostreak (from plans 
    in Nov. 1987 Model Aviation) that has an Astro Cobolt 05 in it. 
    (It flys great - I'll put a report in the electrics note soon...)
    Thus, I'm not using the spinner to start the motor (obviously).
    
    Is a Goldberg spinner OK for this kind of application (about 8000
    RPM)?  If you say "No way!", like I think you will, then what would
    you recommend to use with a folding prop?  I'm asking because the
    folding prop poses some problems (for the Goldberg anyway).  The
    place where the prop leaves the spinner is rectangular in shape
    and is thicker from front to back than a normal prop.  Thus, the
    spinner needs to be modified.  What other brand of spinner do you
    (or anyone else in the notes file) recommend for this?
    
                       _____
                      |     \
                      |      \                          Silent POWER!
      _        ___________    _________   |
     | \      |           |  |         |  |
     |--------|-  SANYO  + ]-|  ASTRO  |--|            Happy Landings!
     |_/      |___________|  |_________|  |
                      |       /           |
                      |      /                           - Dan Miner
                      |_____/

    Dan,
    re -.1, where do you fly ? I'de love to see the 'streak do its stuff.
    I myself have been into electric for two years now (its all I fly)
    but I have yet to try a "performance" plane.  I use the master airscrew
    12-8 folder on one of my planes, and have a goldberg spinner attached.
    I have never had a problem with it (aside from getting it on the
    plane without breaking anything), and I simply "dremeled" out the
    blade holes in the spinner to accomodate the square centerpiece
    on the folding prop.

    RE: .-2, Dan,
       
    My objection to the Goldberg (and any other "snap-on") spinner deals
    with its use on gas/glo engines only.  Being constantly subjected
    to starteripmact ant torque in addition to high operating RPMs, this
    type spinner all too frequently fails, throwing the spinner cone
    into the prop arc and sending shards of plastic shrapnel exploding
    ito the face of the pilot and nearby onlookers.
    
    I can't imagine any such hazard using this spinner on electric motors
    where starters and high RPMs are not the norm.
    
    I should mention here that there's little intention on the part
    of spinner mfgr.'s to make the cut-outs in the cone such that they'll
    fit any application or prop.  In fact, often the cutout is merely
    a "starter-hole" from which to make your own cutout.  Don't expect
    to be able to purchase a spinner specifically for any particular
    engine/prop/application.  
    
    See note 465 for the discussin(s) that took place regarding snap-on
    versus "safe" spinners.

      |
      | |      00	 Adios,      Al
    |_|_|      ( >o
      |    Z__(O_\_	(The Desert Rat)

Any body tried these TruTurn spinners. What are they like compared to Fox and 
CB.

The reason I ask is we had a race meeting at the weekend and buried a model 
due to an exploding spinner and could have lost a second had we not noticed a 
crack on the start line. What happened is the vibration from an engine at 
27,000 caused the radio to go off air and bury a model.

On the positive side our slowest time was 1:20 the best was 1:17. The fastest 
time of the weekend (get this Bob Greer) 1:14. We had 31 entries in F3D, how 
many did you get at the 87 Nats?, 4 was it.

John

    Re: .-1, John,
    
    I know of Tru-Turn by reputation and advertising only but they're
    supposed to be turned from bar-stock like a Fox and employ tongue-
    in-groove cone-to-backplate mating a'la CB Associates (now Tatone).
    
    That sounds like a winning combination to me, though I'm not too
    likely to use one since no commercial spinners come in the sizes/shapes
    required for most scale applications, particularly 1/6 and larger
    scale models.   

      |
      | |      00	 Adios,      Al
    |_|_|      ( >o
      |    Z__(O_\_	(The Desert Rat)

    Anyone familiar with the process of producing a SPUN aluminum spinner?
    
    I'm particularily interestes in producing a light-weight strong unit in
    the 6" diameter range.
    
    My understanding of the process, is the aluminum plate is spun at high 
    speed and molded around a blank form through pressure applied to the
    plate. I'm not sure if this is 100% accurate, or if the metal must be 
    heated first, or if in fact this is feasable at home on standard
    light-weight machine tools.  Has anyone ever attempted this?
    
    
    
    Regards
    Rod
    
    P.S. I realized that a spinner can probably be purchased for $60-70
    	U.S., but with the Canadian dollar in the gutter, and with
    	shipping, taxes, duty and Postage handling charges, it will likely
    	end up costing twice that.  It would be cheaper to have one made at
    	a local machine shop.
    
    

I have seen the process used to make cookware/bowls on TV. No heating of the
material was used/apparent. The plate was spun up with a plug chucked in the
tailstock (I believe it needed to be free to spin) and then a tool was used to
press the plate towards and over the plug. The movement of the plate in the
process appeared to be almost like it was made of pottery clay (as seen on the
Discovery channel)

If you want to find out the REAL answer, I'd suggest asking the machinists in
BROUGH::ENG_IN_MINIATURE. You might even find someone local willing to try doing
the job. Remember, the cone is merely part of the job, you still need to form
and attach a backplace that will hold on at typical prop speeds and stand up to
starter torque.

Jim

    I'm going to set up a test of this process in the near future. 
    Presently I'm kitting the plans, and am up to my armpits in sawdust and
    patterns.  I post here what I find out, and let everyone know if this
    is feasible with non-production equipment.  If successful, I will
    explain the tools and details of how to complete it.  If I'm not, I'll
    give you my rendition of how I converted my garage into a scrap metal
    recycling facility.
    
    
    Regards
    Rod