| T.R | Title | User | Personal Name
 | Date | Lines | 
|---|
| 305.7 | Cordless drill for starter? | SNOC01::BROWNTONY | Tony Brown Sydney, Australia | Sun Jan 29 1989 22:33 | 11 | 
|  |     For what it's worth, I thought I would test the cordless drill
    approach. I machined a metal cup the same size as my Sullivan and
    turned a 10 mm shaft on the other end. Then I borrowed my brother's
    Makita 7.2 v cordless drill and went at it on my OS FS120.Turned
    1 3/4 turns very well until it reached the point of compression.
    And then........it stalled! No amount of recharging, swearing, change
    in technique etc would get it past compression. Seemed like a good
    idea at the time.................
    
    Tony
    
 | 
| 305.8 | Quite different | LEDS::COHEN |  | Mon Jan 30 1989 12:47 | 7 | 
|  | 
    There's much more torque and power in a handheld starter.  Rmember, the
    Cordless drills have the equivalent of an 05/075 sized electric airplane
    motor, geared down from 12-13K RPM to about 600 RPM.  Hand starters have
    a motor that's as large, or larger than a 60 sized Cobalt motor, and
    they're not geared down.  I'de guess that the diameter of the armatures
    differs by as much as 2 inches.
 | 
| 305.12 | More test details | SNOC01::BROWNTONY | Tony Brown Sydney, Australia | Mon Jan 30 1989 23:50 | 12 | 
|  |     The cordless drill I used was a large two speed drill, not a cordless
    screwdriver. The Sullivan deluxe (12v) I have was SUBSTANTIALLY superior
    in torque terms.
    
    I have seen cordless drills with the following voltage ratings: 9.6v,
    7.2v, and 4.8v (those numbers sound familiar?) which I assume give
    some indication of the relative torque ratings. My experience was
    trying to start a 120 four stroke with a 7.2v drill. "Your mileage
    may vary".
    
    Tony
    
 | 
| 305.13 | Starter 1 Drill 0 | LEDS::WATT |  | Tue Jan 31 1989 17:42 | 8 | 
|  |     To start a big motor like a 1.2 with a starter, the trick is to
    turn it backward until it hits compression and then use the starter.
    This gets things moving and the inertia will get it through compression
    if it doesn't kick back too hard.  You need the RPM's of a good
    starter to get a 1.2 through compression and you need the head start
    of the one turn before compression. (4-stroke)  A slow turning drill
    will not get the inertial help through compression and it won't
    turn fast enough to prevent back kicking.  Ouch!
 | 
| 305.14 | Use a decent battery | CURIE::ANKER | Anker Berg-Sonne | Wed Feb 01 1989 08:01 | 18 | 
|  |         Re:< Note 305.13 by LEDS::WATT >
                The problem is usually caused by attaching a wimpy little
        motorcycle battery to  the  starter.  I  use a regular automotive
        battery and it's amazing  how  much  more  power you get out of a
        regular Sullivan starter.  I  have  yet  to run into an engine my
        starter won't turn over.
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         Hang in there! o_|_
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             Anker      \_|_/
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