| Title: | Welcome To The Radio Control Conference |
| Notice: | dir's in 11, who's who in 4, sales in 6, auctions 19 |
| Moderator: | VMSSG::FRIEDRICHS |
| Created: | Tue Jan 13 1987 |
| Last Modified: | Thu Jun 05 1997 |
| Last Successful Update: | Fri Jun 06 1997 |
| Number of topics: | 1706 |
| Total number of notes: | 27193 |
I am in the process of building a PILOT Piper Tomahawk-20.
I should start by saying I am very disappointed in this kit. The
balsa and hardwood are good and di-cut partsd fall out easy. But
if I had not had alot of model experience I would have given up by
now on it. The reason is the model can't funtion according to the
plans. It has a T tail and the linkage that they show is IMpossible.
I am going to install a cable instead of pushrod.
Another impossible is the nose gear stearing. The gear bolts
onto the firewall and if done according to plans the stearing arm
is right up against the wall. They should of mage it longer to put
the arm under the firewall.
The plastic cowling is a joke it is made out of the same stuff
that little rubber jobs cowlings are made of. This I need help on.
How do I make this piece strong enough for me?
I would rather scratch build than make another one of these kits,
Well almost;-(
Tom @marlboro
| T.R | Title | User | Personal Name | Date | Lines |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 250.1 | Pilot: Piper Tomahawk-20 cowl | SPKALI::THOMAS | Thu Aug 06 1987 11:23 | 7 | |
Build the plastic cowl per plan. Then lay up (on the inside
of the plastic cowl) two thin layers of fiberglass. I like two
layers as opposed to one thick layer because it seem to reduce/
eliminate any deformities.
Tom
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| 250.2 | TRY THESE | GHANI::CASEYA | THE DESERT RAT RC-AV8R | Thu Aug 06 1987 12:21 | 32 |
I echo Tom's advise about laying up fiberglass cloth on the inside
of the cowling, however, be VERRRY careful what kind of resin/glue
you use!!!! Polyester resin (like K&B) will melt the plastic into
a ball of plastic mush. CYA's might also. Epoxy resin is probably
your safest bet but, WHATVEVER you try, test it on a piece of scrap
BEFORE using it on the cowl...you'll save yer'self a LOT of grief!!
Also, be careful (wary) of using cable for elevator linkage on your
T-tail. It'd be REAL easy to end up with a sloppy elevator, some-
thing you REALLY can't afford. Skinny Ny-rod might be a better
alternative.
On the steering link; try adjusting the tiller away from the firewall
about 30 degrees when the nosewheel is in neutral (straight ahead).
Then run your pushrod from the side of fuselage OPPOSITE the tiller,
e.g. tiller on left-pushrod on right. The clevis end of the pushrod
will angle across to the tiller such that (in this example) full-
right nosewheel will push the tiller parallel with (or against) the
firewall...adjust so it doesn't quite touch. This is really pretty
common to ships with internally mounted steering linkages and the
solution I've suggested is widely used. The only slight drawback
is that it takes up a little more space in the tank compartment
but this can usually be overcome by locating the linkage near the
floor or near the top of the compartment.
Finally, don't be surprised if the model has a noticeable tail-walk
(wiggle) in flight...so does the real one and EVERY model I've ever
seen.
G'luck with yer' Traumahawk,
Al
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