Conference vicki::boats

    
    I made a couple of moorings that work great.  I use one for a seaplane,
    and one for my boat.
    
    I start with a trip to Spags.  One good size plastic wastebasket.
    One eyebolt.  Three cheap 10 to 13 pound Danforth lookalike anchors.
    Three length's of 50' long nylon rope.  One length of rope for the
    mooring line.  At the lumber yard, one 80 lb bag of Sackcrete.
    
    Mix the Sackcrete in the wastebasket, put in the eyebolt, and let
    it harden.  Put on the mooring line and float, sink it where you
    want.  Attach the ropes to the anchors.  Put a loop at the end of
    the anchor lines around the mooring line, then sink the anchors
    one up shore, one down shore, one off shore.  In my case I never
    worried about an offshore wind as it is so well sheltered.
    
    The concrete will drag a little in a strong wind, then the anchors
    will hold it fast.  It is easy to haul up and move.
    
    I just sink the mooring line in the winter, and run a line close
    to shore to a concrete block to locate it in the Spring.
    
    I first got the idea from Chapman's book.  It cited a couple of
    people doing it on Long Island.  These were the only people that
    still had boats after a hurricane went through.
    
                               
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    It sounds like your on a lake ? right? Not any current?
    
    Your wellcraft must wiegh in at around 1600 lbs? depending on the size
    engine.
    
    This should do it.  Go to Veryfine Apples and pick up 2 55gal Blue poly
    barrels for about $2 bucks each, They ship fruit juise in them so there
    clean. ie: No nasty Chemicals!
    
    Cut one barrel in half with a skill saw using a combination blade.
    
    Go to Spag's and purchase 15 additional feet than your water depth of
    Galvenized 3/8 proof coil chain. ie: Water depth 10ft get 25 ft chain.
    Also purchase 20 ft of 5/8 to 3/4 inch Nylon Line 3 strand twisted will
    do, no need to buy double braid unless you want to.
    While your there pick up a 3/8 to 1/2in shackle, a 1/2" eye bolt 3"long
    and nut. Make sure this stuff is Galv!
    
    Drill a few small holes 1/8 in is good in the half of the barrel in
    rendom places. Use twine and tie 2-3 ft of chain suyspended in the
    barrel using the small holes to hold the twine.
    
    Fill the barrel with concreate! 
    
    Attach the other end of the chain to the whole barrel using the eyebolt
    and shackle. Be sure to use washers and back up the eye bolt with a
    scrap of wood on the inside of the barrel, The access whole is about 2" 
    dia. So it will be a bit tricky.
    
    Seal the access holes in the "Float" Barrel with silicone calking and
    the plugs that came with the barrels (Make sure you get these when you
    pick up the barrels)
    
    Attach your Painter Line to the shackle by braiding a loop in both ends
    of the line. Drop the whole shebang in the water where your going to
    moor. and loop the painter around your forward cleat or shackle it to
    your bow eye.
    
    You can get fancy and paint your mooring bouy with your name if its
    required where you will be.
    
                                    Have fun!?
                                      Walt
    

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Note 373.0               from the block to the surface?               No replies
CGVAX2::CLARK_J                                      19 lines  11-MAY-1989 16:25
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    another question on moorings
    
    if the depth is 15 ft and the boat is a 17ft i/o,you would need
    15 ft of 5/16/chain and 15 ft of 5/16 to 3/8  nylon rope attached
    to the eyebolt on the bottom and the bottom of the float at the
    top.
    and probably 5-6 ft of pennant.
    
    may be a silly question but do you tie the nylon to the chain and
    to the float ofr do you secure it in some other way.tying it
    seems,somewhatno permanent.
    
    i probably should have entered this in the other mooring question
    but i wasn't sure if it would be seen.
    
    thanks,
    
    
                   Q

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Note 373.1               from the block to the surface?                   1 of 1
AD::GIBSON "Lobst'a Ayh'a I'm the NRA"               13 lines  11-MAY-1989 17:01
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    I'm sure the modeator will move this back to the mooring question
    anyway, so. 
    
    The Nylon line ( rope if you will) is spliced back into itself using a
    thimble to reduce abrasion on both ends. The line is then shackled to
    the chain.
    
    For how-to splice. get a copy of chapmans at the libary. It has vey
    good directions. It's not difficult once you learn, just follow it step
    by step.
    
                                 Walt
    

    I'm confused in this discussion between the use of chain and nylon
    rope.
    
    Which is preferred for salt water for the mooring line (the big line
    between the sunk and floating parts of the mooring)?
    
    You can see how much I know about this!

I dunno about lakes and stuff, but ocean harbors have harbormasters and 
(usually) mooring regulations that specify exactly what mooring 
equipment must be used. My Marblehead mooring has a 2500 lb concrete 
block, 35' of 5/8" bottom chain, 35' of 3/8" top chain, and a 15' 1" nylon 
pennant plus a second, backup 1" nylon pennant. This is only slightly
more than required by the harbor regulations for a 32' boat. And the top
chain must be replaced every two years. And all the chain must be
US-made. And the entire mooring must be hauled and inspected every three
years. Of course, Marblehead does get some severe gales spring and fall.

The pennant goes from the float to the boat, the 3/8 chain goes 
from the float to the bottom chain, and the bottom chain to the concrete 
block. I personally would never, ever, under any circumstances use 
anything but chain under water. Nylon under load will chafe though very 
quickly, and who know what rocks, logs, beer cans, and other trash are 
lurking on the bottom. Nylon is for short-term anchoring, chain is for 
more than overnight anchoring and mooring.

    Are the earlier replies directing us to Spag's for these mooring parts
    because:
    
    1) Spag's has a heavy duty marine hardware department and these
       things are hard to find?
    
    or
    
    2) Lots of places have these things but Spag's is cheap.
    
    or
    
    3)?
    
    Spag's is a long drive for me.
    
    Jim
    

RE: .7

Jim, I noticed your location is LKG which isn't too far from the Mill (that's
where I'm at).  I live about 5 minutes from Spag's so if you can describe
exactly what you want I'd be glad to check out availability and prices.  I
usually get to Spag's about once a week for my old-ladie's-elbows-to-the-ribs
treatment.  :-)  I'm sure we can work out some sort of payment/delivery
arrangements should you decide to buy.

...Roger...

    It takes me 45 min, but I do go once in a while.  I just never knew
    they had any marine stuff.  I'll probably take a look see myself - what
    department do I go to?   (I know, halfway between the fishing tackle
    and the ladies shoes :-)
    

    95.672% of the moorings in the Parker River in Newbury Ma. are
    constructed with heavy chain from the mushroom anchor (or concrete
    block)...to nylon line with the obvious thimbles in place to the
    bouy. After conversations with people over the winter...(Norm Burbine
    for one)...I decided to change my nylon over to 3/8" chain for the
    upcoming season. This is consistent with my original intentions
    for a mooring set-up as described in Chapmans. I was swayed into
    using the nylon last year cause...if everyone else does, why not?
    Or as another put it:When in Rome(Newbury)...do as the Romans(Newburys)
    do.
    
    Norm had a good point...in my River, where the low water around
    my mooring can be 2.5 to 4ft. deep, the nylon rope may not hang straight
    down from the bouy and may easily come in contact with a
    propeller !@#!$%!  The chain would always hang straight down and is
    less apt to be severed by a propeller blade.

   /MArk

    If I want to buy a 150lb mushroom anchor as opposed to 2 bags of
    concrete and DIY,
    
    	where would I go for one?
    	about what would it cost?
    
    Jim
    

    Roughly, the mushrooms cost $1.00/pound. Baert Marine has 'em in
    Danvers Ma...Marine Speculator in Salem Ma...Marine Exchange in
    Peabody Ma.
    
    Stay away from the mushroom anchors which are made outside the U.S.
    These type are shipped over in 2 pieces. The retailer screws the
    shaft into the heavy dish when received. Word has it that this 
    type have sustained many failures as compared to the MAde In USA
    ones. Some insurance companies will suggest against using the foreign
    mushrooms if they know (and ask) you are planning to moor your boat.
    Mine did.

Jim...

Only part of Spag's that I know of with marine equipment is down by the
automotive section (just after the phone/TV parts and video tapes).  That would
be at the end furthest from the Rt. 9 side.  I've seen line, winches, bilge
pumps, trailer lights, and other assorted marine equipment there.

...Roger...

I just thought before I left for sunny FLA today that I would put
some of the Bourne mooring regs in on the size of moorings
required there.
See ya all in about a week. Going south to look at moorings there.
norm

************************************************************************
TOWN OF BOURNE WATERWAYS RULES AND REGULATIONS 

Under the authority of Massachusetts General Laws Chapter 90B ,Section 15B and
Chapter 102 ,Sections 21 thru 26 and the by-laws of the Town of Bourne the
following rules and regulations are promulgated effective February 5 1990. 

2.5 RECOMMENDED MINIMUM STANDARD 
The scope and size of chain on moorings shall be at least the vertical
height above sea bottom to four (4) feet above the mean high water. Maximum
length of chain shall be no more than two(2) times the minimum length above
prescribed, except where the Harbormaster determines otherwise. All chain,
shackles and associated hardware shall be of USA manufacture. Foreign
manufactured chain and hardware is not permitted. 

Length/boat 	Mushroom 	Commercial Grade 
		Anchor 		Concrete Block 		Chain size 	
Less than 15' 	100 pounds 	500 pounds 		3/8" 	
at least 
	less than 
15'      20' 	200 		1000 			1/2"
20'      26' 	300 		2000 			1/2" 
26'      30' 	350 		2500 			1/2" 
30'      35' 	400 		3000  			5/8 
35' 	 40' 	500		4000 			5/8 
Other than the above minimum systems must be submitted to the DNR in
writing and approved by the DNR prior to installation. All chain,
shackles, swivels must be of USA manufacture and all floats(buoys) must
have a minimum of forty(40%)) of thier volume above the surface of the
water at all tide levels. It should be noted that the above weight
standards are "minimum" required and heavier anchors in certain
waterways may be necessary in during severe storm conditions. Greater
than minimum standards may also be required by the Harbormaster in
congested areas. 
2.6 Each mooring buoy, both summer and winter shall be
painted white and have a one (1") inch blue  band visible above  water
and shall be marked with numbers assigned by the Harbormaster's
department. The numbers and/or letters shall be a minimum of two(2")
inches in height and be clearly visible at all times. Spar buoys shall
be upright at all times and not less than forty (40�) degrees at any
period of tide and not less than eighteen (18") inches exposed when no
boat is secured to the mooring. Mooring spar buoys shall be removed on
or before the fifteenth day of May and shall not be set until on or
after the fifteenth day of September, of each calendar year. The top
part of all mooring buoy spars and mooring must be easily visible at any
tide level. Any mooring buoy spars not removed by 15 May may be
considered an abandoned mooring and may be removed by the Harbormaster.
No space may be reserved unless a spar or buoy is present at all times.
Mooring chains dropped to the bottom are considered abandoned by the
Harbormaster's office. 
2.7 Permits shall be valid for a period of one
(1) year. Applicants for moorings in areas deemed by the Harbormaster to
be overcrowded shall be placed on a waiting 
list maintained at the office of the Harbormaster. 
2.8 No person shall place a
mooring buoy, lobster pot, eel pot or other obstacles that will cause or create
a hazard to navigation in areas usually used as channels for navigation. In
cases of doubt, the Harbormaster shall be consulted in advance before setting
them in place. Hazards to navigation shall be subject to summary removal by the
Harbormaster, without notice or hearing, and neither the Harbormaster nor the
Town shall be responsible for any losses to the owners thereof caused by such
removal. 
2.9 Tampering with moorings: No person other than the rightful owner,
his or her representative or the Harbormaster shall pull or otherwise tamper
with any mooring within the waterways of the Town. Abandoned and/or
unregistered moorings that cannot be identified shall be confiscated by the
Harbormaster or his assistants and disposed of in the best interest of the
Town. 

    OK, one more stupid mooring question  (I'll buy a copy of Chapman's
    when I get over the price :-)
    
    What's a pennant?
    What's a painter?
    

pennant:

1. A long, tapering flag used for signalling or identification.

2. The line from the boat to the mooring bouy.


painter:

1. Someone who applies protective coatings (usually called paints) to 
   boats. 

2. The line used to tow a dinghy (often found wrapped around a
   propeller). 

    I have a question regarding mooring construction. My father has a 19
    foot power boat which is moored in fresh water (Lake Champlain, Vermont
    side). The mooring is in about 9-10 feet of water. The chain from the
    anchor (a tractor engine block and transmission case chained together)
    needs to be replaced due to wear on the links, not necessarily due to
    corrosion. In the Fall, the buoy is removed and the chain is connected
    to a wire which is fastened to a tree on shore to prevent ice damage,
    so the anchor and chain are in the water year-round. The bottom is
    muddy so the anchor sinks into it and has never had a problem dragging.
    
    My question concerns the replacement of chain. Since chain wear seems
    to be the primary problem, then corrosion, I am considering replacing
    it with stainless steel cable, probably 1/4 inch, using thimbles where
    it connects to the anchor and buoy. A contractor friend of my father's
    has had great luck with this cable using it to reinforce permanent wood
    and stone docks. It looks like new after a few years in the water.
    Given the 9-10 foot depth I would probably use about 20 feet of cable
    net after the connections. What do you think of this idea? Any
    suggestions? I have a scuba-diver friend who check the bottom every
    year so I can keep an eye on it, but I do not want to have to pull it
    regularly to maintain it. Thanks for your input.
    
    Larry

    I have one concern with that arrangement.  S.S. is fine as long as the
    surrounding environement is not OXYGEN POOR because S.S. builds a
    protective (and maintains) the protective film as long as O2 is
    available.  The anchor is under the mud (oxygen poor area?).  Perhaps
    oversize chain from the anchor with a swivel and thimble to match the
    new chain to the S.S. cable?  That would insure that the cable didn't
    spend too much time under the mud attached to the anchor.  I used S.S.
    wire rope on my boat mooring once and I found after a thunderstorm that
    all but ONE stand had snapped.  One advantage to the chain is that it
    acts as a catenary (spring) to absorb the shock load of wave action via
    the chains weight.  I did not have any chain to act as dead weight to 
    absorb shock when my wire rope almost snapped completely.  Also, I may
    have had too small wire rope for the shock loads.  Wear in mooring gear
    is unavoidable... the trick as you are trying is to minimize it. 
    
    Another thought is what about winter when you let that wire rope sink
    into the mud?  S.S. prop shafts pitting between the shaft O.D. and the
    I.D. of the propeller hub is a classic example of S.S. corroding in an
    oxygen poor area.  Another place S.S. should not be used would be S.S.
    screws driven into constantly wet wood... that creates an O2 poor
    area between the screw O.D. and the wood.
    
    S.S. should be used in open areas when under water... not in situations
    where is is trapped away from oxygen.
    
    Stress corrosion in S.S. would be a concern under oxygen poor
    conditions too... that is... the wire rope spends much of its life
    burried in the mud... then suddenly during a storm its stretched out
    tight with shock loads when it already was pitted when under the mud...
    that scenerio sets it up for failure.
    
    So... I suggest the chain leader from the block to the rope... and
    keeping the wire rope out of the mud during the winter.
    
    Jeff

    Well, I took everyone's advice and rebuilt my father's mooring with
    US-made 1/2" and 3/8" galvanized chain and shackles last weekend. I
    appreciate the advice which also came off-line. With the help from some
    friends, I hauled the whole works out of the water and re-rigged it.
    In true Vermont yankee tradition the anchor is not exactly high-tech!
    It consists of two 36"diameter mowing machine wheels of unknown vintage
    but very stout, and a tractor transmission case. I would guess the
    whole thing weighs about 125 lbs. and was sunk about 6-8" into the mud.
    It was all two of us could do to drag it the last few feet out of the
    water. Anyway, I wrapped about 7 ft. of the 1/2" chain around and
    through the anchor parts and left 6 ft. of it extending from the
    anchor. I then connected 15 ft. of 3/8" chain to the 1/2" with a swivel
    between, and the 3/8" to the buoy. I safety-wired all the shackles with
    stainless wire. I rigged the anchor so that the transmission case sits
    on top of the wheels. I put the whole works back in the water, in a
    depth of about 10'. About the only visible change is that the buoy
    floats about 1" lower than before but the blue stripe is still above
    water. BTW, the old chain was some well-worn 1/4". This whole rig
    should last quite a while. Thanks again.
    
    Larry

    After rebuilding my father's mooring (mentioned in .21) and using it
    quite successfully this past season (thanks again for everyone's input)
    the boat engine died at the end of the season and we wound up replacing
    the boat (it was 25+ years old anyway) with a new 21' I/O runabout this
    Fall. I intentionally built the mooring on the heavier-than-needed side
    for the old boat since the inevitable could have happened at any time
    so I think it will be fine for the new boat (about 2800 - 3000 lbs). I
    do, however, need to replace the pennant on the mooring since the old
    one was worn anyway and is no longer the right configuration. The old
    on has a braided loop which fit on a deck cleat, the through a chock to
    a spring clip which attached to the mooring. The new on will be
    permanently attached to the mooring with a spring clip which will
    attach to the bow eye on the boat.
    
    My question is this: I have all the hardware but need to get a pennant
    braided with loops and thimbles braided on both ends, with the spring
    clip attached at one end. I know that it has been mentioned in this
    notes file that braiding is not that difficult with a manual, but I am
    very wary of committing a brand new boat to a pennant which is my first
    braiding effort. I would like to find some place or someone experienced
    to accomplish this and am willing to pay for this service. Any ideas?
    Also, how long should the finished pennant be? Thanks in advance. I have
    the whole Winter to accomplish this but know if I do not get started
    now I will be scrambling in May!
    
    Larry 

    
    I have a friend who is well qualified, and will do it for you 
    
    reasonably...
    
    pls. call me a dtn 275-3743..
    
    JIm

RE: .22,

Jim B's suggestion is most likely to be least expensive.  If done 
basically the right way, strength in a braided loop is less an issue than 
appearance -- it's easy to make it strong enough, but neatness takes some
work and/or experience. 

Another alternative is to call any marine rigger (usually connected with
the larger full service yards on the shore) or a sailmaker. 

J.

    I can do the splicing you need... Have many years of experience with
    splicing.  Phone (603) 898-4755
    
    Jeff

HI LARRY!

You might want to stop in at BOAT U.S. (Waltham - Waverly Oaks Road) 
and see if they 1) have some pre-spliced braided pennants made up in a 
length that suits your needs, 2) persuade one of the salespersons to 
splice the ends in his spare time (for a nominal fee of course), or 3)
buy the line there and have a go at it yourself  (they sell marlinspike
literature too).

Then again, you could consider 3 strand nylon which is easier to splice and
the weavings are exposed so that you can readily detect any hint of failure 
(rare).  Nylon will also act better as a shock absorber than dacron. However,
I agree that braided line looks better.

bc

    
    Nylon has more stretch than braid. Braid is much stronger
    than nylon.
    
    HOWEVER, the downfall of the braid is chafing, it looses
    its strength rapidly as chafing begins.
    
    For a mooring the goal is too keep the tension off the 
    mooring as much as possible, nylon is the perfect candidate
    for this application.
    
    JIm.

re .27:

Er, nylon rope is made in many configurations, including twisted 
three-strand and braided. Braid is somewhat stronger (around 10%) than 
three-strand. 

The major problem with ANY mooring pennant is chafe. An unprotected 
pennant, regardless of its construction, can chafe through very quickly. 
Pennants are typically quite short and thus won't stretch much under 
varying load. However, any stretching will aggravate chafe as it will
cause the pennant to move against the chock. I'd recommend using the 
largest pennant possible for two reasons: There is more of it to chafe 
through and it will stretch less, minimizing chafe. The length of chain 
from the mooring float to the mooring block/mushroom anchor/whatever 
should be long enough to compensate for waves and tide. We use two 1" 
braided nylon pennants on our boat in Marblehead. They are led through 
two well-rounded chocks. So far our boat has survived two hurricanes and 
several gales with no chafe on the pennants at all. 

There are several notes in the SAILING conference (MSCSSE::SAILING) that 
discuss moorings and pennants in detail.

Alan