Conference unifix::sailing

    The Endeavor 42 is the boat Sonny Crocket lives on in Miami Vice.
    
    (the following sounds a bit like I dont like the boat - actually
    I did like what I saw - but not for our "around the world" boat)
    
    We saw one at the Newport show last year, being shown by Wayne Burdick
    of Hellier Yachts. We trust Wayne, having known him for years and
    bought 2 boats from him.  He said it was a substantial coastal and
    island cruiser, and the speed wasnt bad for the bulk. Most come
    equipped with minimal sailhandling gear and the rig doesnt look
    up to hard use.  
    
    The interior is beautifully finished (the aft stateroom is the second 
    nicest I recall - the Tayana 55 is better). This may be where
    Endeavor's collective head is at. The term floating condo applies
    here as the boat looks to be layed out to be lived in at anchor.
    This is not a put down - since for the most part, island sailing
    is daysailing/night anchoring - just an opinion of where the boat
    is most at home.  There are no sea births, few hand holds, and a long
    straight galley, all of which would be awkward at sea. The spaces
    are just great when on even keel though.

    I dont know anything about the CYC - except that they have advertised
    for years in Sail and Cruising world.
    
    October. Isnt that near the height of the hurricane season ? 

    Walt

    
    Its a great time if you are prepared and know what to expect. I'm not
    sure whether you are chartering out of the BVI or just sailing into the
    BVI, so some possible non-issues are below. Additionally, if you are
    bareboating or having a crewed charter then some may be in your control
    and some not. 
    
    I went in May and a few things I noticed or would do differently
    are listed below. Some may sound pessimistic, but I'd call it 
    careful and just being prepared.
                           
       - Check the safety equipment of your boat *before* you take it
         out.  Some boats do not have TYPE-1 PFD's, flares or other
         things you might take for granted.  They may have type-2's
         or no first aid kit, etc.
                     
       - Have them show you as much as possible about the things which
         could break (throttle cables, auxillary tillers in case the
         wheel jams,etc). You never need to know these until you need
         to know them badly. 
    
       - There is almost no tide, so thats not a problem, but the sun
         sets very quickly.  Most charter companies want you at anchor
         by 4:00pm.  It set around 7:30 when we were there.
    
       - Bring gloves unless your hands are quite calloused.  Some charter
         boats have wonderfully thin, salty lines (like on furling gear)
         that can really ravage hands used to working with soft
         fuzzy stuff.
    
       - Bring a hat or stay under the Bimini.  The sun can really get
         to you otherwise.  Especially in the water.  Sun block as well
         as tanning oil is a must.
    
       - Bring a barometer.  The weather reports down there are for
         "the caribbean".  From the north coast of South America to 
         Puerto Rico!  Even worse, its out of Bedford, Massachusetts.
         They were never of any use.  In October I'd bring the National
         Weather Service with me. :-)  Seriously though, the reports
         are lousy and I'd do all I could to forecast myself.
    
       - Winds are about 15 to 25 knots, but most charter boats down
         there are "short-rigs", so you don't feel overpowered.  We
         did most of our sailing between 9 and 1 in the afternoon when
         things weren't quite so hot or breezy.
    
       - There are few real snug anchorages.  Each is open to some
         direction in a dangerous manner.  Always pick out a couple
         when planning.  For example, Caneel Bay is open to the West
         and Southwast, while Redhook Bay is open only to the east and
         Northeast.  We had to run from one to another a couple of times
         to escape a blow.
    
       - If sailing into the BVI from the VI (or elsewhere) there is a
         stiff duty levied on the boats entering and each person.  Not
         sure about the VI from the BVI.
    
       - When in the USVI most communication is usually done via 
         a relay setup called "VI Radio".  The BVI has the same via
         "Tortola Radio".  Both are necessary due to the high mountains
         in the area.  If you want to get in touch with your charter
         outfit you normally have to have them patch you through. Similar
         to a ship to shore call. They play marine operator.
    
       - The only places you can buy provisions at a decent price are
         in Road Harbor (Tortola) or Virgin Gorda.  Don't count on the
         smaller islands having 7-11's.  On food prices, Chicken and
         seafood abound are are OK, but beef is high.  Produce is out
         of sight (flown in).  Beer is OK, alcohol (rum) is dirt cheap.
         Restaraunts are not bad, especially if you are out of the bigger
         cities like Charlotte Amalie (Bluebeards castle, etc).   Pussers
         Landing (used to be "Bananas") on the west end of Tortola (Sopers
         Hole) lets you dingy in and gives away a free quart of rum
         with each dinner (my wife and I had a $24 dinner and got a
         $10.00 bottle to go).   Another good place is "Sandcastle" on Jost
         Van Dyke.
    
       - Depth on charts is marked in fathoms (just in case you wonder
         for the first few minutes whether your sounder is working).
    
       - Do not (repeat *NOT*) anchor for the night any less than 500
         feet off the beach.   There are incredibly hungry bugs in the
         mangrove and after it rains they hold a convention.  Bring
         lots of Cutter to be safe.   A boat with screens on all hatches
         is a great help.
    
       - The nearest coast guard is in San Juan, so don't count on them
         coming to help you.  Ask the charterer who an emergency contact
         would be at any hour of the day.  Some only will be available
         for VI Radio from 8-5.
                   
       - Do not miss "the baths" on Virgin Gorda, Norman Island, "the
         Bight", or any of the smaller islands.  I found the smaller,
         less populated islands to be the nicest, spending days anchored
         and swimming on beaches where we were the only ones.  
                                                      
       - Be careful where you anchor.  They have quite a bit of trouble
         with charter boats ripping up the coral and all it takes is
         a look down (the water is crystal clear) to see whats below.
    
    Hope it helps.  
    
    Rick
    
    

THANKS FOR THE REPLY'S BOTH .1 AND .2. YES, OCTOBER IS THE "HURRICANE SEASON" 
PROBABLY WHY OUR RATES ARE SO *CHEAP*? OH WELL, YOU PAYS YOUR MONEY AND TAKES 
YOUR CHANCES.  REALLY APPRECIATE THE LITTLE POINTERS THAT WILL PROBABLY PAY OFF 
BIG IN THE LONG RUN, FIRST AID, SAFETY EQUIPMENT AND THE LIKE AS WELL AS THE 
RECOMMENDED THINGS TO DO AND SEE. I JUST HOPE OUR STORIES ARE ONES OF MEMORABLE
SUNSETS ETC. AND NOT MEMORABLE EMERGENCIES (ALWAYS PAYS TO BE PREPARED THOUGH). 
ANYONE ELSE CARE TO ADD TO COMMENT ON THE WEATHER OR WEATHER EXPERIENCES AT THIS
TIME OF YEAR? 








BRIAN






  

    I'm going down on 10/4 till 10/18... usually go @ end of Jan.
    
    We carry breakfast and lunch with us..canned brie,summer sausage,
    beer and crackers etc for lunch and english muffins,jam and coffee
    for bkfast... costs about $100 for four folks for 10 days, even
    with goodies like dry roasted peanuts etc each day.
    
    Jost van Dyke is great, white bay and the two harbors, be at great
    harbor for Rudy's pig roast and dancing if you can.
    
    The bitter end, up in North Gorda sound is fun, and one can dinghy
    to great snorkling from there..really shouldn't miss that.
    
    We agree on Norman island...anchor about 100 ft off the caves in
    50 feet of water...you can check your anchor by putting on a face
    mask and looking at it.. stay close to the boat, as the holding
    ground is uncertain. 
    
    Magan's bay on the north side of St Thomas is nice and never busy.
    One of the prettiest spots down there is at the cut at the end of
    St Thomas, east of red Hook, called Christmas Cove.
    
    One of the better protected harbors is the Marina at the Virgin
    Gorda Yacht Harbor, just north of the Baths.
    
    It has to be the easiest place in the world to sail, you agonna
    love it. I've been told not to worry about hurricanes in Oct.
    Between us, we shall see.
    
    Another beautifull place is up in North Gorda Sound, called Biras
    Creek. It is up on a hill and has about the best sunset view in
    the islands, along with Skyworld on top of Tortola, accessible
    via cab from Roadtown. Both have great food, but expensive..
    Good resturants are about $100 for wine and dinner for two. Bad
    ones are about $20 less, but what the heck...once a year...
    
    Best of luck, good sailing.. pete d.

Rather than start a new note on this subject I thought I should reopen
    this note.
    
    I will be chartering with the MooringS in Tortola for my first time next
month.  The two women on board like to get off the boat every evening for
some shore time along with a meal.  (They don't want to cook)  If anyone 
can recommend any places to eat in the Tortola area  (one week itinerary),
it would be greatly appreciated.  Also any other comments about such a
charter are welcome.

    Pussers Landing at the West End of Tortola (Sopers Hole) is a nice
    restaraunt.  They give you a free bottle of Pussers Rum as a gift
    and the food is pretty good.  Just dingy up, and have at it.  Happy
    hour drinks are huge, if that matters.  It used to be called Bananas,
    if anyone remembers that.
    
    Sandcastle on Jost Van Dyke is also quite good. 
    
    Rick
    
    * Order anything but dolphin and grouper :-)

    RE: .6  Pusser's Landing now serves the 'Painkiller'.  It's Pusser's
    Rum. coconut, pineapple, orange, nutmeg on top.  Sweet but deadly.
    
    I spent last week sailing in the USVI-BVI.  We got a bareboat charter
    from Island Yachts in Red Hook on St. Thomas.  There is some question
    as to if the fridge was working properly (we are total novices so
    it's possible we didn't have all the right switches flipped while
    running it...but, all of our frozen meats and lunch meats were bad
    by Wednesday pm) but, other than that the boat was in very good
    shape and the people at Island Yachts were very helpful.  The arranged
    SCUBA rental and the half-provisions we bought we fantastic.  I
    can also recommend 'Binimi' which charters out of Red Hook.  The
    Moorings our of Tortolla had beautiful boats but they're several
    hundred dollars more expensive than the charters out of Red Hook.
    
    We went to: Francis Bay on St John, nice overnight with some snorklin
    and good hiking.
    
    Sandy Cay off of Jost Van Dyke is really beautiful for an afternoon.
    We didn't stay there very long because a huge boat that we assumed
    was a day ferry was coming in to anchor.  We headed out to Sandy
    Spit off of Green Cay to avoid the people.  We later realized that
    the day ferry was just a very large yacht - with about 5 vacationers
    on it.
    
    Great Harbour on Jost Van Dyke is a great place to anchor for the
    night.  We were there on Sunday night so we missed Rudy's Monday
    Night Pig Roast, but we went to Happy Laury's Sunday night all-you-can
    eat Bar-B-Q.  And, then for after dinner there's Foxy's.  It's a
    great place to spend the evening (have a few Painkillers.)
    
    We spent a night in Roadtown on Tortolla because we had to cut our
    days sailing short due to one very seasick sailor.  Go to Roadtown to get
    some hot sauce and Hangover Cure at Sunny Caribbee Herb and Spice Shop,
    go to Roadtown to buy provisions.  DO NOT get water and DO NOT stay the
    night.  I suppose some would like it because it's a big town but I really
    preferred the more isolated anchorages and the coves with one or
    two nice bars ashore.
    
    Go to Cooper Island!!  They have moorings for $10/night, and air
    for SCUBA tanks, great snorkling, great SCUBA, and the Cooper Island
    Beach Club!   About six people live on the island and everybody
    else is from the boats.  Drink Painkillers in beach chairs under
    the palm trees and munch on the best conch fritters.  I think that
    Cooper Island has the best sunset - Painkiller in hand as the sun
    sets over the Sir Francis Drake Channel and St. John.  Going to
    Virgin Gorda was going to be too much sailing for our seasick pup
    so we stayed at Cooper Island for a day and a half.  I took the
    dinghy over to Salt Island.  Clementine shows you around on Salt
    Island - I could only understand every fifth word he said.  Salt
    Island is worth a quick stop but not much more than that.
    
    I agree with the praise for the Bight at Norman Island.  The snorkling
    was fantastic and the caves are cool.  There's also an old clipper
    (I think) anchored there that has been converted into a bar and
    restaurant.  Converted is kind of a strong word to use here - they
    threw a kitchen on one end and a bar on the other and two tables
    inbetween.  They served what everybody served - hamburger, grilled
    chicken, dolphin was the special..  But, they also had chicken roti
    which is kind of a curried chicken crepe.  Pretty good. 
    We went diving through the Indians (rocks off of the Bight) and
    that was really fun.  Lots of fish and coral.
    
    The morning before we had to return the boat to Red Hook we went
    to Christmas Cove on Great St. James.  Christmas Cove is really
    beautiful.  Christmas Cove, the Bight, and Cooper Island had the
    best snorkling/SCUBA.  I wish we had had more time to spend there.
    On the southern end (around the Stragglers) the snorkling is great.
    
    Other recommendations:
    
    DON'T go through customs.  Everybody had told me that and from what
    I saw down there, it's no problem avoiding it.  I walked through
    the customs building in Frenchmans Bay (yum, Pusser's Landing!)
    and I didn't even see any customs people.
    
    The BVI uses U.S. money.  We brought some pounds left over from
    a trip to London and nobody would take it.  Everything is in dollars.
    
    The Street's Guide to the Virgin Islands won't be out until the
    end of the month so we didn't have that with us.  But, our boat
    had a copy of the Cruising Guide to the Virgin Islands aboard. 
    It's great.  It has desciptions of most of the anchorages, navigation
    information, suggestions on where to anchor, things to do ashore,
    misc. info (don't wear bathing suits ashore on Roadtown,  the hotel
    at Caneel Bay does not welcome you ashore with open arms...)
    
    I'm already planning my trip back next year (no people prone to
    seasickness on board, straight up to Cooper's Island, see Virgin
    Gorda, on the way back Roadtown for spices, Jost Van Dyke for Foxy's,
    Christmas Cove for the last day.)
    
    -Eileen
    
    

    Well I guess its time to open this topic again.  Since its of great
    interest to me.  I am going to the BVIs in late July 89. This will
    be my first experience in the warm waters, all the info in this
    note will be very helpful. My question, some time has elapsed in
    this note, are there any updates due to this?
    
    re .0    Brian,  how did you like using Ed Hamilton's company (I
    have just contacted him)?  And what can you tell me about CYC?
    
    I'm looking at the CYC 44, any info on this particular boat?
    
    Any helpful hints on provisioning and/or cooking on board, recipes?
    
    Thanks 
    Don
    

    1) I am not Brian but I used Ed Hamilton last year.  He treated
       me very professionally and I will use him again.  You can do
       do it yourself but it was easier to let him handle things.  He
       went to the trouble to call me just before I left to make sure
       everything was ok.  He also called a couple of weeks after I
       got back to find out things went, and to get a report on the
       charter company.
    
    2) Food we did almost all of our own provisioning in St Johns at
       the local super market.  The bill for four came to $200, and
       another $30 for drinks we got from the charter comapny.  The
       drinks were cheaper through them and I did not have to haul a
       couple of cases from the store.
    
    3) You will need to pick up a couple of things during the week.
       We ran out of milk, ice, bottled water, and meat.  We knew we
       would run out of meat but did not want to run the risk of it
       going bad.  The food prices in the BVI were much higher that
       in St Johns at the super market.  Also the ice was more expensive
       and was not nearly as good.
    
    4) We had a hard time finding whole milk in the BVIs and I could
       not stand the taste of LONGLIFE milk.  We did not run out of
       water in fact we returned with 90 gallons of the 200 we started
       with.  We used it sparingly and we stopped twice and used shore
       facilities.  
    
    5) Biggest mistake of the going into road town instead of going to the
       Bitter End.  One person wanted to go shopping in Road Town.  Then all
       she did was complain about it, the cost, the crowd, the noise, etc.
    
    6) Have fun, I had hoped to back this spring but the person I was
       going with backed out at the last minute.
    
    
    Forrest
    
    Ps.  Do not know much about CYC except that I saw an awful lot of
         CYC boats.

    re .8
    >    I'm looking at the CYC 44, any info on this particular boat?
   
I can't comment now about the CYC 44, but I will be chartering
one in March, and can give you a report then.

I'm quite satisfied with CYC.  The CYC 47 I chartered two
years ago was an excellent boat - contemporary design and equipment
with very good performance and in perfect condition (it was new).

The 44, 47 and 52 are a new(er) series of boats for CYC.  The
older part of the fleet consists Morgans and Endeavours that
do not appear to sail as well and are not in the best condition.

--gerry
    

    
    3 other people and myself are bareboat chartering out of Tortola
    in April.  I have read all the appropriate BVI chartering notes
    in this file.. which have been very helpful, thank you. 
                  
    I read several comments on the food issue but I wonder if anyone
    can supply me with a little more.  We did give the charter company
    our menu for split provisioning and were quite blown away by a $400 
    figure.  I've been to several islands and know food costs are very 
    high but was taken aback by their total.    Now we're exploring
    doing a mix of bring our own and shop just before we leave port.
    We wonder what Customs allows.  One persons earlier note does
    confirm some food can be brought in, but does it all have to be
    canned or be relatively unthreatening...like crackers, peanut butter,
    etc.  Can we bring in wine?  coffee? tea? honey? sugar? boxed cereal?  
    I would think fruit and meat would be forbidden, but does anyone know for
    sure?
    
    Also,  we'll be arriving late Saturday night and would have to
    do food shopping in Road Town, Tortola on a Sunday morning.  Anyone
    know if grocery stores are open Sunday morning?  (Most of the
    islands are pretty conservative about stuff like that.)
    
    Thanks,
    
    Kathy

    Kathy, we will be chartering thru The Moorings in February.  It
    will be our second time with them.  Two years ago we brought cereals,
    can goods, snack stuff, etc.  We had to declare the value of the
    foodstuffs with customs in Tortola.  We declared about $40 and were
    taxed only a few dollars.  We will be bringing more this trip as
    food prices are HIGH.  We plan on eating out almost every night.
    My wife and her sister like to get off the boat for awhile each
    day and also neither like to cook very much while on vacation. 
    Restaurant prices were on the expensive side but the meals were
    all very good.  Brandywine Bay brings back some good dining memories,
    for one.  Wine and hard liquor are priced quite resonably.  Beer is on
    the expensive side but too heavy to carry from the states.  Friends
    of mine chartered last year and brought a cooler of steaks packed
    in dry ice.  So I think you can bring just about anything though
    you will be asked to declare its value.
    
    There was/is a grocery store in walking distance for the moorings
    docks.  I can't recall our arrival day so you should call you chartering
    company and ask about the shopping on Sunday.
    
    If I come across any specific restrictions either before or during
    my trip, I will post them here on return.
    
    Sun, here we come!
    
    Frank 

    RE: .-2
    
    	We bought food and ice at grocery store that was a short walk from
    where we put in for the night.  I did not make the trip to the store so
    I cannot give directions, but it was open sunday morning.  It was alot
    cheaper than the store in the marina where we spent the night.  I will
    never go into Road Town again short of a major emergency.
    
    
    
    Forrest

    
    re: .12 and .13   
    
    Thanks for your replies!   The information is very helpful and tells
    me that we can successfully bring as much as is reasonable from
    home and then buy the rest in Road Town. It does surprise me that
    perishable foods are allowed..like steaks or fresh fruits and
    vegitables?  I really don't want to set myself up for carrying 5 boxes 
    of food with me, but it's nice to know for sure if there are some
    restrictions which will automatically rule out certain things.   I'll
    have to check with the charter company for an absolute answer if we
    decide to get into perishable foods and will post my findings.
    
    We're using BVI Tortola Marine Management. My friends have been doing
    all the dealing with them which they report has been very smooth
    and efficient.  I must say they got us the best deal for our flight.
    I had uncovered every possible stone trying to get the best airfare
    deal.  We're going April vacation week and even in December most flights
    were booked and there were very few deals available.  The Management
    Co's agent got us the best rates and choices of flights.  Obviously
    some sort of "arrangement" goes on down there to get air transportation
    for the charter customers cause we wouldn't have been able to go had we
    been unable to secure the flight.
    
    .12  Pascucci
         Would certainly appreciate your comments when you return from
         your trip.
    
    .13 Kenney  
         Is there a particular reason  Road Town was so horrible?  Other
         than it being big and crowded in comparison to all the other islands.
         If you've been to Charlotte Amalie would you classify Road
         Town like that?             
         
    Kathy
               

    
    Road Town, no, it is not like Charlotte Amalie very different in fact.
    Alot of factors play in my not liking Road Town.  Part of the group
    urged us to go to Road Town so she could do some shopping.  Before we
    even tied up she started to complain, it started about the cost of a
    mooring and it escalated from there.  It was not where I want to spend
    1 precious evening (my plan was to go to the Bitter End for the
    evening). It was not overly clean, pretty, nothing in town I really
    wanted to do. It was busy enough that I had to wait for the town and
    the local bar to shut down before I got any sleep. Please do not let my
    being down on it keep you from exploring.  I would pick up and drop a
    boat off in Road Town if that was where it was. I would not bother to
    make it a stop if I were looking for a place to spend a night.
    
    I asked my sister who went food shopping in Road Town the place to go
    was Bobby's.  She said that he prices were the best in town about the
    same price as the large grocery store in St Thomas.  We did not find it
    ourselves, in fact the marina recommended someplace else that was much
    more expensive.  The nicest thing that happened while in Road Town (in
    fact the whole trip) was a family we met that showed her this store. 
    They had fled from South Africa and were headed for TEXAS when their
    boat broke down outside of Road Town (they had been stuck in the harbor
    for 2 months waiting for repairs).  They showed us the store, offered
    us a hot shower on their boat for free.  Not a small favor when water
    from the marina was 12� a gallon.  The marina charged something
    like a $1.00 for 60 second shower.  
    
    
    Forrest
    
    Ps. I really did not care for Charlotte Amalie either but I did not
        spend a night in the harbor.  I stopped off on the way home did 
        my gift shopping and then went to the airport.
    
    PPs.  Have a good trip keep your sense of humor and remember things
          work at a different pace in the Islands.  Would I do it again, in
          instant at least once a year for the next couple of years.  By
          then I would be looking for a new place to explore.

    
    -1  Thanks for your reply. That's exactly what I wanted to hear.
        I spent a week on Virgin Gorda. I believe I understand your
        disappointment at spending time in Road Town vs. Bitter End.
        I was hoping you didn't have any horror story of incredibly
        harbor, etc..  Our plan is to leave Road Town as soon as we
        can get ourselves ready.
    
        The tip to go to Bobbies was wonderful.  Thanks very much for 
        taking the time to check it out!
    

    
    re: .12 OZZAIB::Pascucci
    
    You mentioned you were chartering in the BVIs in February.  So..how
    was it?  Do you have anything good/bad to share?  I'm going April
    15 which is why I'm so very very interested.
    
    Thanks,  
    
    Kathy
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    

Sorry for the delayed report.  After starting this on my "state of the art"
VT180 I found someone had deleted Polyxfr from my node and I couldn't find
a way to transfer this until today.  Beware, even though it is long there 
are probably things I have left out that may bring up questions.  I'll
try to answer any in the future.
*****************************************************************************


         The vacation is over and the tan is fading fast.  We had quite a
         few different experiences during this charter in comparison to our
         trip in 1987.  If you have no interest in the BVI's  I recommend
         you hit next new as this may be long.
         
         Background:  This is the second charter we have had with The
         Moorings in Tortola.  Two couples, my wife and I and my wife's
         sister and her husband made up the charter party.  As couples
         we traveled separately to Tortola as one couple left from
         Philadelphia and we left from Kennedy.
         
         First, information about bringing food into Tortola.  Going thru
         customs in Tortola my wife and I were asked "what was in the box."
         We answered "food".   The inspecting officer said "ok, have a nice
         visit."   My wife's sister and husband arrived several hours later
         and were asked the same question and "what is the value".  They
         were charged about $2.00 for the value declared (~$40.00).
         I would highly recommend bringing light (weight) munchies.  In
         Tortola "Pringles" averaged $3.50 a can!  We also brought a 5lb
         canned ham that didn't require refrigeration.  This was dinner one
         night and lunch another day.  We only ate onboard two nights, as
         we prefer to check out the restaurants.
         
         The Boats:  We again chartered the Moorings 43.  In 1987 the boat
         we had was one year old and in very good condition.  This year we
         had the same vintage 43 but now it was 3 years old.  It was in
         good shape though it showed the the added two years of service.
         The engine (Perkins 4-108) had 3,300 hrs.  It ran great, no oil
         was consumed in our use.  The Mooring's instructed us not to bring
         the revs above 1800.  That was supposed to be 6 knots but was
         actually about 4.6.  But we had LOTS of wind and really only used
         the engine for hot water and battery charging.
         
         The Charter:  Our itinerary was very loose.  We started out about
         1400 on Saturday the 18th of February.  The late start was due to
         a problem with the refrigeration before we left the dock.  More on
         that later.  We left for Peter Island, about 7 miles.  Here we had
         to anchor bow and stern as there is no swinging room.  After we
         were at anchor for about an hour we helped fend off another
         chartered boat and instructed and assisted him in the art of bow
         and stern anchoring.  (Now we have done it twice)!  Peter Island
         is really beautiful and the yacht club / resort is very plush.
         Dinner that night was very good, at the Peter Island Beach restaurant
         was very good.
         
         The second day we left for St John but first had to stop at Soper's
         Hole to check out of the BVI's thru customs.  Soper's Hole was a
         very busy port, lots of ferry traffic.  CUSTOMS! They can't be
         understood, they are nasty, and SLOW!  Being second in line, it
         only took us about 45 minutes to check out.  All crew had to be
         present.  Dress properly, ie: shoes, shirts, etc.  Shorts are ok.
         The sail from Soper's Hole to Cruz Bay, St John was great.  The
         wind was between 15 and 20 and we broadreached all the way.
         For some reason we could only register 3.5 knots on the knotmeter.
         After anchoring I found the knotmeter transducer was installed
         backwards!  This was easily corrected and later 5 to 7 knots was
         usually seen on the knotmeter.
         
         Cruz Bay:  Cruz Bay is the home of many liveaboards.  It was very
         crowded and while looking for a place to drop the hooks we passed
         in front of a very old, very large, very ugly boat that had been
         unattended for some time.  To our dismay we found it had THREE
         anchors down.  Two all chain and one nylon.  It was the unseen
         nylon that grabbed our rudder.  As we were going very slowly and
         my brother in law (Joe) realized the problem immediately we were
         able to raft along side until I was able to remove the line from
         our rudder.  Some tension, but really not as bad as expected.
         Unfortunately while diving for the line I grabbed the rudder and
         found it was covered with sharp barnacles.  The cuts were
         superficial but prevented me from exposing my right hand to salt
         water for two days.  (This meant NO ANCHOR DUTY)!!!  After getting
         free we anchored in the shallowest water of the trip, 10 feet,
         right next to the channel.  The channel we soon found out was used
         hourly by a seaplane.  It was very impressive and LOUD, but
         terminated at dusk.  That evening we ate in town, another good
         meal.
         
         Great Cruz Bay:  On our third day we went "around the corner" to
         Great Cruz Bay.  The winds were ~ 20 knots and the seas about 8
         feet.  The 43 handled it just fine.  Great Cruz Bay is the
         location of a resort hotel the name of which, slips by at this time.
         I will find it and add it later as it should not be missed if you 
         go to St John's.  Again the anchorage was crowded with liveaboards, 
         not many chartered boats here.  The holding ground was grassy and
         two attempts to latch up the 45 lbs CQR failed.  The 35 lbs Bruce 
         bit the first time though.  After being sure the Bruce was set we 
         carried out the CQR in the dink and lowered it into a sandy hole. 
         Using the electric windlass we  were able to set it.  Depth was 
         42 feet and the bottom could be seen very clearly!  Just like home -).
         
         We all went ashore to the resort and explored a little.  While we
         were on the beach we watched an empty passenger ferry (about 90
         ft) apparently practicing docking.  The operator didn't give us
         the impression he would ever learn.  He made a few high power
         aborts.  But before he gave up we watched him catch the anchor
         line of a visiting sailboat.  He towed it a little ways before his
         prop cut the line.  Luckily someone was aboard the sailboat and
         was able to get the engine going before it drifted back into the
         rest of the anchorage.  About this time Joe and I decided to go
         back to our boat and check things out.  We got back to the boat in
         time to meet "Harvey" in a GO VACATIONS trawler.  After pointing
         out to him that he was too close to our anchor lines and was going
         to drag over them, HE DID!  Apparently Harv is not used to
         anchoring. He was trying to anchor with short scope in 40+ feet of
         water.  When his port prop was on our anchor line a person from
         his boat went overboard to pull the line out.  We yelled at the
         top of our lungs to get Harv to shut down the engines while the
         man was in the water.  He yelled back that it MIGHT be a good idea
         and finally shut down.  After getting a lot more "advise" from us
         he finally moved to a spot that he could fit in.  The GO VACATIONS
         trawler fleet is opening up the chartering world to inexperienced
         people.  I won't go into it any deeper here.
         
         We spent two days and nights in Great Cruz Bay.  We voted St. John
         as the most scenic island we visited.  We took a tour by taxi that
         was very reasonable and informative.  Choose your taxi driver with
         care.  Cost should be about $10 per person plus tip.  If you inquire 
         among the drivers you should be able to get a tour in a small tour-
         bus (converted pickup) for just your group.
         
         We left Great Cruz Bay on Thursday the 23rd.  As we motored in and
         out of the many bays of St John on our way to Jost Van Dyke we
         came across the U.S. Coast Guard.  What a surprise when they asked
         permission to come ABOARD!  The inspection took about 45 minutes.
         An officer came aboard and stayed in the cockpit with us and very
         slooooowly wrote out his "Report of Boarding" while his assistant
         did a "safety check" below.  He even asked for a screw driver so
         he could remove panels over tankage areas.  The boarding party was
         very courteous but heavily armed.  The hard bottom inflatable they
         arrived in followed at a distance with even heavier artillery.
         The boarding officer wore a headset and was always in contact with
         the inflatable and their cruiser.  Our charter boat boat had three
         failures.  The expiration date on the flares was March 88.  The
         charter company should not have let that happen.  The boat was
         also cited for not having seals over the safety pins on the fire
         extinguishers?  Pretty picky stuff.  The third violation was " the
         head thru hulls are closed, so I know your using the holding tanks
         but the Y valves should be wired in the holding tank position and
         they are not."  After they left I went below to recheck my
         thoughts.  The boat doesn't have either a Y valve or a holding
         tank.  Sure the thru hulls were closed as the heads are below
         waterline and the boat tended to sink if we left them open.
         Anyway I am glad to have experienced it on a charter rather than
         my own boat as the owner of the boat will be contacted by the
         coast guard.  They explained these problems were his problems, not
         ours?
         
         Jost Van Dyke:  Another visit to Customs was needed to check back
         into the BVI's.  Another somewhat unpleasant experience.  Being
         next in line, after a twenty minute wait, the customs officer
         announced "LUNCH".  "All come back at 1330".  It was 10 minutes to
         12 when he did this.  We got back in line at 1320 and were first
         in line.  We were thru in 10 minutes but the line was out the
         door.  I am sure there were some people that had to spend the
         night because they were not processed before closing.
         
         That evening we had dinner at "Foxy's".  The dinner was really
         good and to top things off a Barber Shop Quartet sat at our table
         and really brought the place to life.  We retired to a calm quiet
         night about 2330.  Oh! If a local child offers to start your dingy
         for a buck, let him.  If not be sure to take the motor out of gear
         and put the throttle back to idle (instead of wide open throttle)
         before pulling the starter cord!  Also check to be sure the motor
         cover is locked down before you try to tip the outboard up.
         
         The next day we left for our longest sail of the trip, only about
         20 miles, to Cooper Island.  It was a beat most of the way with
         several tacks needed to get through the channel.  We really wanted
         to get to Cooper early so we could pick up a mooring.  Overnite
         cost is $10.00.  The anchorage is deep, greater the 40 feet, and
         the current can get you spinning around your anchor so a mooring
         is advisable.  Well as we were entering the mooring area we only
         saw one mooring available.  Joe was on the bow with the boat hook
         as we approached the mooring and we watched a dingy launch from
         the shore, race over to the mooring and claim it as already taken.
         We then decided to anchor, at least for a short time to see what
         would develop.  A "Go Vacations" charter boat that was at anchor
         was then moved over to the mooring in question.  A few minutes
         later we saw another boat leave a mooring and before we could even
         start the diesel, said dingy had attacked that mooring and was in
         the process of moving another "Go Vacations" boat over to it.  We 
         finally launched our dink and tied up to a mooring with two day
	 sailers attached that we found would be leaving in an hour or so.
	 After the day sailors left my wife had to stay in the dink, attached
	 to the mooring and almost fend off two boats tha ttried to pick it up
 	 as I motored over.  I actually had to abort a turn to the mooring as
	 another boat cut me off to get to it!  Moral-- Get TO COOPER ISLAND
	 EARLY (about noon) if you want a mooring.  Also, if possible chose
	 a mooring further out from the beach as the waves get steeper near
	 beach and will cause an uncomfortable night.  The resturant at Cooper
	 is the only thing on the Island.  We had another very good meal
	 there.

I could go on and on so I'll try to some it up.  

We decided that we will not go through customs again.  Meaning we will stay
within British islands.  Customs was a real time waster on such an expensive
week.  We would not go to American Islands without clearing as we would have
been turning green when we were boarded if we hadn't cleared properly.

The fix for the Refrigeration!  It was engine driven and had a switch to turn
it on and off in conjunction with a timer switch so you wouldn't run it for
more than one hour.  We found, on our last day out, the timer was wired
backwards!  If you left it off (timed out) the compressor would run!

Anchorages are deep (to me). 30 to 40 feet is common and people will try to 
anchor close to you on short scope. Beware!

BUT>>>>  It was great!!!!  The water, weather, wind, sights, sounds everything
was very enjoyable.  I wish I were going back tomorrow.  Meanwhile back to 
getting my boat back into the water.

Caution:  This is pretty long.

Bare boat chartering in BVI is now history.  A great time was had by
all.  We were traveling school vacation week so started off with a wild
adventure at the airport which ultimately netted us with $2000 worth of
ticket vouchers per couple. Made us feel like the rest of the week was free.
Now we're trying to figure just how we'll use the ticket vouchers!

The notes in this file were very helpful to us.  In fact, after a few
days my husband cursed himself for not paying attention to the guy who 
suggested bringing gloves for the ropes.  My thanks to those who planted the 
seed to bring your own food. The idea worked so well we each brought two boxes 
filled with non perishables like soups, tuna, cereal, beer, soda, water, 
snacks, misc. canned goods, condiments, briquettes for bbq. Beforehand we did 
check with the airline on baggage weight maximums through to Tortola. (which 
was: via American/BVI Air 3 bags, 2 @ 70 lbs. 1 @ 40 lbs.) The boxes were very 
sturdy, taped and tied for rough handling and sent as luggage so we had very 
little carrying to do. Our boxes were ~ 60 lbs and 35 lbs. and our friends 
were similar. At Customs we each declared total value of $50. The agent didn't 
want to believe us but also didn't want to open the  boxes and check. He 
charged us a few dollars each. The contents really weren't worth much more 
than $50 just lots of stuff was bulky. It wasn't convenient to go food shopping 
when we arrived at the marina and we wanted to leave as soon as we could which 
turned out fine since we brought enough food for 1 full dinner, most of our 
lunches and breakfasts.  The next morning in Sopers Hole we bought the 
perishables and were all set for the week.  Most dinners we ate out.

We rented a 38 ft. Beneteau through Tortola Marine Management. Apparently TMM 
purchases (or their customers purchase) their boats from the Moorings.  The 
boat we had was built in 1984 and in very good condition. Their charter
prices are considerably cheaper than Moorings and, I think, most others. 
We went with them because when we checked last December, they were about the 
only company with any boats left for April 16 week. TMM's marina is tiny in 
comparison to Moorings (which we went over and checked out) but none of us 
were there to hang out at a marina so we felt it wasn't important. We would 
rent from TMM again.  Our only complaint was the refrigerator (a Frigoboat) 
was not working properly and we had to add ice every two days. Also while the 
38 ft boat for 4 was adequate, a 42-44 would be much more comfortable.  In the 
38, only the forward birth was comfortable enough for 2. We had paid for a 
windsurfer for the week which Boardsailing B.V.I messed up so we never got it. 
No hassles with the refund tho.

The charts they gave were only adequate but our friend brought complete 
navagation charts he borrowed from someone who had done this last year.  This 
was a terrific package. It included a video which we watched before we left, a 
huge map inside a zipped plastic pouch, and a smaller booklet with all the 
possible mooring/anchor/docking spots in the BVI's. The smaller booklet 
visually showed an overhead shot of the harbor with white anchors drawn to 
indicate where you'll go, pointed out the cautions like depth and coral 
locations and also interesting local tidbits.

Day 1 We didn't leave Tortola til late afternoon and sailed to Sopers Hole.
      Had  a very nice dinner at Pussers Landing. (Little note: we had
      to ask for our bottle of rum.) Sopers Hole has a grocery store where we 
      purchased our perishables the next a.m. The store is quite small but had 
      a little of everything and the prices weren't as outrageous as I'd 
      expected. I believe they do provisioning too.

Day 2 Spent the day at Sandy Cay. Nice beach, good snorkeling, nice to walk
      around. I do believe this was the place my legs were bitten to pieces.
      The bites ended up huge, some got infected and took 2 weeks to
      disappear.  

      First went to Great Harbour on Jost VanDyke and found out Rudy's changed
      their Monday Pig Roast to Tuesday.  Foxy's was sort of dead so we 
      anchored at Little Harbour. Had a decent dinner at Harris and right next
      door a wild and fun evening at Sydney's Peace and Love.  I think Sydney's
      is so nuts because the customers mix their own drinks and than pay $2 to 
      the owner/bartender/whatever regardless of what you get. Most people 
      were pouring straight booze for themselves.  

Day 3 Norman Island caves.  Fantastic snorkeling here. It's a rocky shore and 
      I don't recall any beach. You mainly stop for the caves. We left there 
      about 2 p.m. and it had just gotten crowded with tour boats emptying 
      groups of people into the water.

      Sailed up to Cooper Island where we moored in Manchioneel Bay. We got 
      there late afternoon and only got a mooring because someone left. We 
      didn't eat at the one restaurant, Cooper Island Beach Club, but heard 
      it is very good.  There are only a few residents and the Beach Club is 
      the only thing on the island open to tourists.  It seemed like a island 
      you would moor overnight but wouldn't hang around for sightseeing during 
      the day. The guys cooking/running the Beach Club also take the mooring 
      fee, fill SCUBA tanks and arranged for our scuba diving the next 
      morning. They have some deal going on with Dive BVI which is out of The 
      Moorings in Roadtown. Many people SCUBA diving around the ship wreck 
      made Cooper Island their overnight spot. In fact there was a hugh dive 
      vacation ship anchored in Manchioneel Bay while we were there.
 
Day 4 Had an intro lesson in SCUBA diving which was enough to do a 30ft. dive
      in order to see The Rhone ship reck (shot the movie The Deep here)
      which is off Salt Island.  We did this through Dive BVI. One could
      also snorkel and see the wreck.

      Then sailed to Virgin Gorda and stayed at Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbor.
      At this point it was mid week and we needed water and ice. While we
      did have showers on the boat, the marina had real showers. My husband
      and I had been to Virgin Gorda so we rented a jeep for 24 hrs. and showed
      the other couple the sights.  Had a wonderful dinner at Chez Michelle
      right in town. Wednesday night was live local music at Bath and Turtle 
      so our timing was good.   

Day 5 Drove to The Baths on Virgin Gorda. Heard from several it can sometimes
      be tricky anchoring off the Baths so many boaters anchored/docked and
      taxied or rented jeeps.  Baths are definitely required to visit but I
      was very disappointed. I had been there in December 3 years ago and 
      noone was there.  We didn't get there til around noon and it was jammed.
      I know it's a lousy attitude to have but I do hate mobscenes at 
      beautiful nature spots. It sort of wrecks the picture.  So get
      there early morning if you hate the crowds or go off season. I do think
      I had read that advice in here before I went.

      Instead of going up to Bitter End the other couple wanted to go to
      Trellis Bay. We had been to Bitter End area before so this request was 
      quite agreeable.
      
      Anchored at Trellis bay and had a delicious dinner at The Last Resort.
      This was a crazy place. During the winter season a British guy manages
      the restaurant and is also the entertainment..  a smallish cabaret. In 
      the summer it changes hands.  The place is on a tiny island which you 
      dingy up to. The non human residents include several dogs, cats, goats, 
      geese, chickens and a donkey.  Everybody seems to get along. The donkey 
      is tied outside but there is a hole cut in a door so he can stick his 
      head inside to see what's going on. They also have a small gift shop. 
      Dinner is a buffet and was quite good.  Entertainment is after dinner.  
      You can go for entertainment only.  
      
Day 6 Stayed the day at Trellis Bay and rented windsurfer. Our friends went
      mainland and took a taxi to Roadtown. (Trellis Bay is right behind
      Beef Island Airport.)  Late afternoon motored over to Marina Cay which
      is a 5 minute motor ride from Trellis Bay.  It is a very small coral
      island. We didn't do it but heard there is nice snorkeling there. We 
      anchored here for the evening.  There is a resort, which looked like 
      several cottages sprinkled in the hills, restaurant, bar, few shops, 
      Dive BVI shop and beach bar. The lodgings had just closed for a month or 
      two but it looked very nice. I think it's at least a few hundred per 
      night.They had a BBQ and entertainment on the beach the night we were 
      there. We didn't eat but went for the entertainment. Unfortunately, 
      2 folk singers from the Mid West weren't the right mood music for us so 
      we didin't stay long.

Day 7 Next day we anchored at Great Harbor on Peter Island. This is a private
      island with a very nice and very expensive resort. Can't use their
      toys but can use the beach and restaurant . Spent the day on the very 
      beautiful beach and shorkled. It also provided nice walking 
      scenery too.. via the long stretch of beach or along the roads.
      
      Spent the final evening docked at the marina in Roadtown and went out
      around town for the evening.

Day 8 Our friends went home and my husband and I rented a car and headed off 
      for one day in Tortola.  We stayed at Cane Garden Bay Hotel which is 
      actually Rhymer's.  The price was good but we wouldn't have enjoyed 
      staying more than 1 night here. It is a nice beach tho a bit too crowded 
      for my preference. They have windsurf, cat, sunfish, jet ski rentals. 
      Were lots of boats anchored here also. In the evening ate right next 
      door at Quito's Gazebo. They had buffet which was decent and guitar 
      and singing by Quito after dinner.

Day 9 The restaurant at Rhymers couldn't get their act together to open for
      breakfast so we found something on the way which was Sabastian's On
      The Beach at Little Apple Bay.  Rhymers never would have been so good.
      This was a wonderful breakfast out on the porch facing the water.
      The food was delicious, the service was excellent and the cost quite
      reasonable for the locale.  Looked like a nice place to stay overnight.
  
      Turned our car in. TMM arranged for us to get ride to Beef Island. We
      checked our bags in and headed the next street over to Trellis Bay
      for 2 more hours of beach and lunch.   What a way to end.       
        

Kathy

    Can any of you experienced BVI'ers answer either of the following
    questions.
    
    	1) Am I likely to be able to get disposable nappies ( diapers )
    	   and baby food at the provisioning points ??
    
        2) What is a GO45 ?? We are probably chartering one of these
           in February. Have an interior layout, but nothing to indicate
    	   rig, what its like to sail, etc.
    

        Any answers appreciated,
    
        Chris
    

    >	1) Am I likely to be able to get disposable nappies ( diapers )
    >	   and baby food at the provisioning points ??
    
    	You should be able to find them I remeber seeing them in a pharmacy
    in St Johns.  I did not do any shopping in the BVI's personnally so I
    cannot state for a fact that they are available.
    
    
    >    2) What is a GO45 ?? We are probably chartering one of these
    >       in February. Have an interior layout, but nothing to indicate
    >	   rig, what its like to sail, etc.
    
    
    	All I know for sure is that they list it as a sloop.  Like many of
    the charter companies they have a house named boat.  In most cases
    these are boats from a big name company built for the charter company.  
    
    	I was trying to set up a charter back in april and the charter
    broker I dealt with was very down on GO.  They were the cheapest but he
    had received several complaints about them.  I had dealt with him in 
    the past as have others in this notes file.  He was always very honest
    and helpful so I decided against GO.  In the end the trip fell through
    and I did not go.
    
    	If you have not already done so read all of the entries alot of
    good information is here.
    
    
    
    Forrest

    Here's another source of info that will be helpful in the initial
    planning stages and as a reference:  The BVI Tourism Directory,
    published quarterly by the BVI Tourist Board.  Offices in the U.S.A.
    located at: 
    
    Eastcoast			Westcoast 
    BVI Tourist Board 		BVI Information Office 
    370 Lexington Ave		1686 Union St. 
    Suite 412			San Francisco, CA  94123 
    NY, NY  10017 		                    
    212/696-0400		415/775-0344 
    
    Both those addresses are from a 1986 directory.  Most information in
    the directory is in tables with just a little bias toward the big bucks
    (Moorings is first in the chartering list!). Here's what my directory
    contains: 
    
    1. How to get there.  Inter-island plane and ferry schedules.
    2. Hotels & Guest houses.  Rates, facilities, contact info
    3. Sort of a map (Captain Hook style!)
    4. Marinas.  Location & facilities.
    5. Sailing by charter agent.  Boat types, rates, facilities.  
    6. Diving & fishing.
    7. Taxi rates, very helpful!
    8. Car rental agencies.
    9. Customs.  (You can bring unlimited amounts of food and liquor
       into the BVI according to my 1986 directory).
    10. Miscellaneous facts.
    
    Rose and I were able to quickly cut down our options by using the
    directory and follow up in detail with what was left.  We stayed on
    Virgin Gorda for a week in December, 86, just before high season. Oh do
    I regret not having sailed then.  Sigh.  Next time!  The Baths do get
    very crowded by about 11:00, the best time seemed to be early morning
    and late afternoon.  They are amazing and worth seeing, even if
    crowded.  However, maybe not if a cruise ship pulls up, opens its sea
    door, and lets out launches filled with beef, American tourist variety!
    (Yes, we did see that happen! Took a few Heinies to deal with that!) 
    
    I'd be interested in staying at the Guavaberry Spring Bay houses if we
    were to stay on Virgin Gorda again.  Just in from the Baths, small
    detached "townhouses" in-between guavaberry trees with a view west
    across the channel.  But I'll probably charter next time we get
    down that way.  I wonder what Hugo did to VG...?

    I am surprised to see this note has grown so much over the last few
    years.  At least I learned NOT TO SHOUT in notes since then.  We will 
    not be going down this year as we have the previous three due to finances, 
    sigh.  Possibly in the spring.  In understand the fleets took a beating 
    with Hugo passing through.  There was another note in the conference that 
    listed some of the damage done to the BVIs.  Anyway the last when we went 
    down last year we moored at North/South for a change.  The moorings are 
    (were) free and they insisted on people using the shore facilities for 
    showers and toilets to try and keep the pollution in the sound down.  We 
    did not argue.  Garbage drop off on shore was $1.00 per bag.  Access to 
    the pool and all resort facilities was also allowed.  We did not eat there 
    so no report.  Some recommendations:
    
    CYC - CYC 44 was the boat we had.  Sailed okay, good shape, CYC staff
    friendly and helpful.  Better layout IMO than the 47.  Fairly flexible
    on destinations.  Would allow us to go to Anegada if desired, many
    won't.  
    
    Places visited.  
    
    Marina Cay - Quiet, good snorkeling, great view from top of the island. 
    Yachties are free to roam around the island.  Dinner was so-so, conch
    fritters not so good.  
    
    Little Harbor Jost Van Dyke - Got crowded, backwinding common if deep
    in.  Deep water anchorage, buggy close in.  Ate at Harris', conch stew
    was excellent!
    
    Bitter End - Moorings $15.00 included garbage pick up.  Most expensive
    water in the islands.  One passenger took the SCUBA excursion to
    Anegada and thoroughly enjoyed it.  
    
    Baths - Spectacular as usual.  Anchored as close to Devil's Cove as
    possible.  Usually less crowded.  
    
    Cooper Island - Always go here.  Understand extensive damage done
    during Hugo.  Mooring almost a must!  Conch fritters the best.  Pain
    killers rival the best (everyone has the best).  View from the top is
    spectacular, well worth the hike, take a frosty with you and watch the
    goat droppings.  
    
    Cane Garden Bay - Crowded but a pretty harbor.  Quito's Gazebo fun at
    night.  Catch the song "She's so ugly!" if you can.  Rhymer's
    Bushwacker is a killer.  Sailboard rentals etc. are available.  
    
    St. John - Several spots
    
    - Leinster Bay and Francis Bay are good over night
    - Trunk Bay for the beach and snorkeling, daytime only.  
    - Caneel Bay can be rough, alot of ferry traffic passes by/through,
      good to anchor here for a trip to Cruz Bay
    - Cruz Bay is crowded and dingy IMO.  Careful of approaching the dock
      near the park service in your dinghy.  Water is SHALLOW, experience 
      speaking.
    
    If anyone goes down this year, would like a first hand report of the
    damage from Hugo.  
    
    Brian

    My brother got back last night from Bitter End YC.  Spent a week down
    there and had a ball.  Said Hugo damage was minimal or non-existant.
    BVI's did well.
    
    Dave

    
    Hello everyone, from Des Moines, Iowa, USA.  Well, I hope this will
    encourage some of you readers (avg. 420 accesses/day?!) to just
    DO IT!  Go sailing in the Virgins.
    
    We did.  May 9 - 17, 1989 which got us 10 "for the price of 7",
    and was a great idea because we practically (and relative to Dec
    - Mar) had paradise to our selves.
    
    WHAT I WOULD CHANGE
    
    We left/returned from St. Thomas.  We toured down to Virgin Gorda
    and back.  Basing out of Tortola could have saved us most of two
    whole days.  The only two days of rough sailing were in/out of Charlotte
    Amalie.  By the way, we put a reef in the main the first day, and
    never shook it out.  Heel angle was just right.
    
    Find out how to "hot wire" the auxilliary, bypassing the ignition
    switch and its cockpit wiring, which are prone to corrosion.
    
    BLAME IT ON GENE!  Blame me for the few extra minutes it will take,
    but DO NOT attempt to enter/exit ANY slip on your own unless your
    crew AND you (you can't do it all by yourself) are old hands at
    using spring-lines, and at handling the unknown-unknowns of docking
    crusing boats.  Avoiding proximity of less than 10 feet between
    your boat and anything else is easy to do down there -- except for
    tieing up to docks.  WHICH I HIGHLY RECOMMEND YOU DO, but just request
    help via VHF, etc. and you will enjoy the experience.
    
    WHAT I WOULD KEEP
    
    We were five married-sans-spouses men aboard a Gulfstar/Hirsch 45
    footer.  That was just right.  The 40 and up boats have accomodations
    which hardly give us landlubbers pause for thought.  Smaller boats
    take getting used to for most of us.  Not a thing to waste time
    on in paradise!
    
    Plan to enjoy yourselves!  Don't adopt a "do without and ration
    -- this is a voyage" mentality.  V.I. is a big lake suited only
    to the best day sailing, relaxing aboard, and partying ashore, anywhere
    close!  Take fresh-water showers (plan to refill your tanks as needed),
    motor sail (or neutral!) to keep your batteries charged so you can
    use all the gadgets aboard, plan to replenish veggies/lunch meats/etc.
    every third day or so, and eat lunch and/or dinner ashore often.
    The locals and the yachties ashore ARE a part of paradise, aren't
    they?
    
    It is typical to haul the anchor between 8 and 9 a.m. in paradise.
    Therefore, by noon or so, you can be at a "stop" and on the hook
    'til maybe 2 to 4 p.m.  Then you can make another hop to your overnight
    anchorage and be settled in ready to go ashore for happy-hour around
    6 p.m.  What you have read elsewhere IS true, though.  If you want
    to be sure of a close-in anchorage/mooring buoy, be there by 2 p.m.,
    or so.
    
    BRIEF ITINERARY & COMMENTS
    
    This is all pre-Hugo, of course:
    
    Coral Bay, St Thomas, was real quiet in May.  Red Beard's Saloon
    and Quickies "fast food/dirt floor/thatch roof" hovel were deserted
    except for locals.  So, we had a ball!
    
    It took two trips into Red Hook, St. Thomas, to get our starter
    replaced.  Treatment met our expectations, and went beyond.  We
    had to spend one night there awaiting parts/repairs.  We asked for
    a slip, and got it no charge.  Hooked the shore power up, closed
    all hatches, fired-up the A/C(!), and had a great meal at the
    restaurant at the shore-end of the docks.  Slept like babies that
    night!  You got troubles?  Get on the VHF to your charterer.  If
    it makes sense to go there, you can count on their experience and
    concern for getting your vacation re-started ASAP.
    
    We overnighted at Great Harbor on JVD, and Foxy's was a treat for
    dinner and entertainment.  Clearing customs there is a good idea,
    I think.  This will sound strange to some of you, but Great Harbor
    is a laid-back place.  Cost us 10 cents/ea. for four days in BVI,
    without any worries.  Since we planned ahead to swim/snorkel/dine
    there, clearing customs "cost" us no time.
    
    We planned ahead to "do a Saturday night in Roadtown."  Again, we
    did the slip/shore power/AC bit.  Again, we had a ball.  Water (100
    or so gallons), KWH's for A/C and VCR, etc. cost us less than $20.
    Roadtown harbor IS noisy and crowded, as you can read elsewhere
    in the notes.  But, our expectations were that Roadtown would be
    a unique experience, and it was.  Sunday morning we did a walking
    tour of the town (recommend the area around the Pusser's store)
    while we waited for the supermarket(s) to open (commercial power
    was down until about 10 a.m., and don't recall whether markets open
    before then or not).  As I said earlier, next time I will be tempted
    to charter out of Roadtown.  It is in the middle of paradise to
    my way of thinking.
    
    Avoid Cruz Bay, St. John, at all costs!  It is a busy commercial
    operation with few redeeming features.  If you must clear customs
    here, dingy-in from the anchorage around the corner to the left.
    Watchout for Piti Bleu II and the Admiral II work barges.  They
    care not!  The seaplane even stays out of their way!
    
    We dined Sunday nite, May 14, at the Bitter End Yacht Club.  I would
    consider a day-sail/nites ashore vacation there with my wife sometime
    (she hates sailing).  I think it is a unique place.  Sort of "open
    air uptown" atmosphere, I guess.  Again, it was semi deserted, the
    service was sudden, and we all stayed late.  We VHF'd one of their
    moorings.  Oh, yes!  We topped-off ook ten gallons) since our fuel
    tank had no gauge.
    
    Do try to make Cane Garden Bay, VG.  It is beautiful.  And, Stanley's
    (of tire swing fame) is a good place for "lobster!"
    
    Well, in summary, I plan to go back.  Definitely will bareboat again.
    Do try it.  The new fleets, post Hugo, should be delightful.  Please
    let us all know!
    
    
    

    Request for Advice:
    Hi! I am chartering bareboat with 3 others early feb.'90 with CYC,
    a 38' Beneteau out of Jersey Bay. This is my first charter in VI/BVI,
    and I am looking for advice, recollections, and references from
    all readers. I especially interested in sailing conditions, anchoring
    tips, and wind and distance info. This will help me figure out an
    itinerary -- so advice about how far you can reach in a few hours,
    and where to go for overnight anchoring would be appreciated. Also
    comments on weather in Feb, if anyone has been there then. Or send
    to Csteam::mcgann. Thanks a lot. I will report back, too.

    
    I just returned (yesterday!) from 10 days in the Virgin Islands spent
    on a CYC 44' bareboat out of St. Thomas with 5 others (including my 6
    year old daughter).  I was a sailing novice, so I cannot provide much in 
    the way of anchoring tips or other knowledgeable advice.    We had
    an absolutely marvelous time and if I get the chance, I'd love to
    repeat the same vacation with some variation in the islands
    visited.
    
    The period we were there was during the 'Christmas winds' and the seas
    were fairly choppy - those times we anchored in various bays,
    especially the 'Bight' off of Norman Island, we were quite concerned
    about swinging into other boats (or more likely, vice versa). 
    Our skipper, an experienced Lake Michigan racer, helped a 45 foot 
    Morgan out of a crisis there, when a boat crossed their anchorline
    and the line wrapped around the prop.  They were drifting, motorless,
    past us towards the shore when our captain took charge and helped 
    them raft their boat to ours (invalidating our CYC insurance, 
    apparently, a word to the wise). Our captain had some strong opinions
    about a GO VACATIONS charter boat that dropped bow and stern anchors
    to prevent swinging - he felt that provided some element of risk
    to both themselves and others in the windy conditions we had. We
    followed all the advice in the Yachtsman's Guide about where to
    anchor and had no problems.
    
    The CYC 44 boat was mostly in great shape, and pretty comfortable,
    given that we had 6 of us, 2 staterooms, plus sleeping in a pullout
    birth in the center of the boat.  We rented a windsurfer which was
    defective and had to be returned on Day 2, and there were a few
    minor problems (main hatch door not fitting properly for locking,
    a dinghy engine with a clogged fuel filter), but compared to the
    Morgan 45 we saw (I believe from Island Winds Charters, next to
    CYC) that had been beaten up in Hugo and not fully repaired, we
    were very happy with CYC and would use them again.
    
    Our itinerary, which was developed spontaneously from day to day
    with the help of the Yachtsman's Guide that CYC provided, included
    sailing from St. Thomas to Francis Bay on St. John (beautiful)
    near Maho Bay Campgrounds, to Jost Van Dyke in the BVI where we
    VERY SLOWLY cleared customs (3 hours waiting around for the customs
    guy to return from lunch...), to Tortola (West End Harbor near Pusser's
    Landing), to Maya Cove (not much there, skip it) to Virgin Gorda
    Yacht Harbor (talk about services...) to Norman Island, back to
    Pusser's Landing for New Year's Eve.  We were dropped off at
    Caneel Bay on St. John for the ferry back to St. Thomas.  Jost Van
    Dyke has been much praised for the fabulous Foxy's in this conference.
    I think Hugo must have done the place in - because it looked pretty
    bleak.  
    
    The longest sail was 4 hours (Maya Cove on Tortola to Virgin Gorda)
    with 3.5 hours from West End to Maya Cove, 3 hours from Virgin Gorda
    to Norman Island, etc.  We saw a number of people motoring, but
    our boat had all the sail power up that the 3 who knew their stuff
    could manage (My brother-in-law, his wife and their friend the
    skipper).
             
    The committed snorkeling among us found the caves on Norman Island
    the absolute peak of the trip, followed closely by the Baths on
    Virgin Gorda.  The Baths were the only crowd-jammed place we saw,
    and you are advised to go early in the a.m. to avoid being run over
    by a dinghy full of people with drinks in one hand and flippers
    in the other.
    
    For sheer charm, I found the West End of Tortola (and Tortola in
    general) extremely appealing and the most enjoyable land visit of
    the trip.  I agree with other noters about Road Town - skip it.
    Near the West End, Smuggler's Cove and Long Bay Beaches were gorgeous.
    Lots of surfers (and surf!) at Cane Bay Beach.
    
    As for Hugo damage, the greatest amount was on St. Thomas, and we
    got out of there fast.  St. Thomas has become very crowded and
    overbuilt and the people seem (maybe this is a false impression)
    somewhat hostile compared to the friendliness we found in the BVI.
    
    I don't know if that was helpful...
    
    - Laurie
    
    
    
    
    

    sailed BVI in '87
    
    WE (3 kids and 4 adults)chartered a Moorings Beneteau 39 for a week in
    April.We started at Road Town ,went over to Cooper Island for the
    night(I think it was Cooper)THe next day sailed to Salt island where we
    snorkled and saw the wreck of the Rhone.Then to the baths-great
    playground for kids and nightmare for parents trying to find them,but
    beautiful.Just get there before the crowds.we spent the night at BItter
    End.Had a good dinner ashore with all you can drink rum coffee.We lost
    our dingy but found it the next morning across the bay.From there we
    went to Marina Cay -in back of the Beef Island Airport.THe longest sail
    which was around 4 hours was from there to Cane Garden which you
    shouldn't miss.Beautiful palm tree lined bay.We then went to Jost Van
    Dyke and ate and danced at Sydneys Peace and Love Bar.The bar was help
    yourself-honor system and good food picnic style.we spent a day at
    Leinster Bay in St John,had dinner and slept at Pussers Landing.Our
    last morning was breakfast at Peter Island.It was an all you can eat
    for around $13.Delich.I would leave tomorrow and do the whole trip over
    again the same way.It was fantastic.

    
    THE NOTES IN THIS CONFERENCE HAVE BEEN VERY HELPFUL IN DOING SOME
    PLANNING FOR AN UPCOMING BAREBOAT CRUISE IN MARCH. I AM PLANNING ON
    GOING TO THE BVI MAR. 15-24. WE WILL HAVE 6 PEOPLE (THREE
    COUPLES) WITH THE FOLLOWING ITINERARY:
    
    MAR 16 ARRIVE ST. THOMAS-STAYING AT THE RAMADA FOR 1 NIGHT-ANYONE
           STAYED HERE? OR IS THERE BETTER OPTIONS?
    MAR 17 CHECK OUT BOAT-SAIL TO SOPERS TO CLEAR CUSTOMS
    MAR 18 SAIL TO NORMAN ISLAND
    MAR 19 SAIL TO MAYA COVE, TAKE A CAB INTO ROADTOWN IF AVAIL?
    MAR 20 SAIL TO VIRGIN GORDA YACHT CLUB/BATHS
    MAR 21 SAIL TO BITTER END
    MAR 22 SAIL TO ST. JOHN
    MAR 23 SAIL TO CHRISTMAS COVE
    MAR 24 CHECK IN BOAT/FLY HOME
    
    WE ARE CHARTERING THROUGH CYC AND WILL BE ON A FREAR 44'
    
    HAVING BEEN "LANDLOCKED" IN KANSAS CITY WITH COLD,SLEET, AND GENERAL WINTER
    DRUDGE I AM LOOKING FORWARD TO THE SAIL. I WOULD APPRECIATE ANY
    INPUTS/COMMENTS ON THE PROPOSED ITINERARY. ONE COUPLE HAS EXTENSIVE
    SAILING EXPERIENCE...THE REST OF US ARE COMPLETE NOVICES AND HAVE NOT
    BEEN TO THE BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS BEFORE.
    
    AFTER THE TRIP, I'LL REPORT HOW IT WENT...
    
    TOM

The first time I went, we had an agressive itinerary like yours.  What I found
was that this turned out to be alot of hard sailing, especially beating to
the Bitter End.  Don't get me wrong, we loved it.  But, in subsequent trips we
have "optimized" - picking our favorites and staying a bit longer in each 
spot.

My recommendation: see as much as you can.  You'll find the places you liked
for the next time.  You'll be tired, but who cares!


/Chris

    Tom,
    
    I can empathize with your plight.  Though not landlocked, the winter is
    having an effect even though skiing keeps me occupied.  I dream of warm
    breezes and cool drinks on a boat somewhere.  You do have an extremely
    aggressive itinerary.  Here are my suggestions FWIW.  I would suggest
    looking at a chart and measuring your daily sails to keep the legs
    reasonable.  The cruising guide you should have received from CYC will
    suffice.  My suggestions are to be taken with a grain of salt.  Have a
    great time (it'll be hard not to) and maximize the relaxation
    potential.  The boat is real nice and a good choice for three couples
    though there are only two heads and two enclosed cabins.  The main
    salon will not have much privacy but it will be well ventilated.  
    You will have a challenge keeping the stuff stowed properly with 6.  
    Emphasize limiting the amount of stuff you take and pack everything in 
    duffels or collapsible luggage.  You will not need an outfit for every 
    day and every evening.  
    
    1. The Ramada is okay.  Depending upon your arrival time, you may get
       to do some shopping in Charlotte Amalie.  If you are looking to do
       shopping, do it here. 
    
    2. Skip Roadtown altogether.  There are better places to visit (IMO) like
       Marina Cay/Trellis Bay (more relaxing) and Jost Van Dyke.  I'd check 
       the charts but Marina Cay may even be closer to the baths than Maya 
       Cove.  Cabs are available though if you really want to do this.
    
    2. We have found that we enjoyed getting to Virgin Gorda ASAP since it
       allowed us to sail pretty much down wind and get all of the windward
       work out of the way.  The sail from Virgin Gorda to St. John is
       LOOONG and may not leave you time to clear customs that day in Cruz
       Bay.  Much easier if you are at Norman, Cooper or Peter islands.  
    
    3. The sail to Christmas Cove is an easy one from St. John.  We opted
       to spend a night on St. John instead as there is alot of traffic
       that goes through Current Cut and can make the anchorage rolly.  
       Beware of getting backwinded in there as well.  The snorkeling is
       pretty good around Christmas Cove though. 
    
    4. The Virgin Gorda Yacht Club is not real exciting but you can take a
       taxi from there to the baths if you get there late (past 10:00 AM).  
       I would not recommend staying there.  You can do the baths and get 
       to the Bitter end by curfew easily enough.  Though it makes a 
       longish day.  An alternative is to go to the Bitter end first and
       sail down to the baths on your way downwind.  
    
    With a 7 day itinerary I would suggest the following.  
    
    Day 1:  St. Thomas to Sopers or Jost Vandyke to clear customs.
    	    Sopers to Cooper Island for night #1 
    
    	    Alt: Stay at Jost or Cane Garden Bay.
    
    Day 2:  Cooper to the Baths early or straight to the Bitter End.
     
            Alt: Jost to Marina Cay/Trellis Bay stooping at Sandy Cay or
            Green Key or South side of Great Camanoe Island before going
            through Monkey Cut.  Stay at MC/TB.
    
    Day 3:  Bitter End to Marina Cay/Trellis Bay (

Come to think of it, we spent two days in Lamshur bay (south east end of
St. John) and only saw one boat!  That's what I call a vacation!


/C

    I have just returned from BVI and all I can say is that it was
    wonderful. I will write it up more when I have time.
    
    I agree with a previous comment about strict itineries. Whilst we were
    there, the wind was strong enough on a couple of days ( i.e. force 6 + )
    to restrict us. Anchoring of the Baths is very difficult except in calm
    weather ( some charter companies forbid it ), so get a taxi from Virgin
    Gorda Yacht Harbour. Go Early or very late to avoid the crowds,( if
    there is a cruise ship in, forget it ) but make sure you go !.
    
    Clearing customs is important, don't let anybody tell you otherwise,
    our papers were checked by a roaming ( British ) customs boat and
    there are big fines for uncleared boats
    
    One thing you must be prepered for in the British part, is that the
    pace of life is SLOW, and there ain't nothing you can do about it.
    Once you are used to that, no problem. 
    
    Don't bother taking any food with you, the only thing that's really
    expensive is fresh meat. The beer is a bit pricey, but all spirits, not
    just local rum, are really cheap, both in St Thomas & the BVI. Don't
    even bother with the airport duty-free shop.
    
    Do expect rain at any time of year, and it can get cool enough to
    justify a thin sweater in the evenings, but all you really need is
    shorts and tee-shirts ( buy some out there, they are about the only 
    ( non-alcoholic ) souveniers worth buying )
    
    There are a couple of good cruising guides available, and if you can
    get it there is an excellant book of ariel photos. This is published by
    Moorings, and may be available from them ( $27 ).
    
    Stand by for more details.
    
    Chris
    
    

	A few more comments on my recent cruise, for the benefit of anybody
	going to the BVI.

	We had decided to sail only for a couple of hours in the morning
	and a couple in the afternoon, and this didn't really limit us
	on our two week trip. Our itinery, with comments on the locations
	was as follows...

        Sun P.M. Picked up boat in Fat Hogs Bay ( I can't think of any other 
		 reason for going there ). Sailed to Cooper Island. Ate ashore
		 in the Beach Club ( recommended ). This your real desert 
		 island. Make sure you take the walk to the top of the hill.
		 Moorings available.

	Mon A.M. Sail to Marina Cay for lunch. Wonderful snorkelling off the
		 beach and on the reef. I think that this was my favourite
		 spot. Moorings Available, but there is lots of good anchoring
		 space.

	Mon P.M. Sailed round Great Camanoe and back to Marina Cay

	Tue A.M. Sailed to Great Dog for lunch. We didn't mange to get ashore
	      	 here due to coral heads, so not very interesting.
	
	Tue P.M. Sailed to Drakes Anchorage, North Sound Virgin Gorda. 
		 This was a very well protected anchorage with a reef
		 protecting the Entrance. This reef was marked with 2 buoys,
		 the second of which wasn't there, which made the approach 
		 difficult. We later found the offending buoy on the Beach
		 on Mosquito Island.

	Wed.	 No sailing due to excess winds ! Mosquito Island had a couple
		 of walks around it, which were worth doing, and what looked
		 like a nice restaraunt, which was fully booked both nights.

	Thu A.M. Sailed to Vigin Gorda Yacht Harbour. This is a lovely marina
		 with a very interesting but well marked entrance. Good shops,
		 for food, drink and souveniers.

	Thu P.M. Taxi to the Baths ( late to avoid the crowds ). We ate
		 ashore in Chez Michelle, which is highly recommended, except
		 that it was the only indoor restaraunt we ate in. To find
		 it, Turn left out of the road exit and its about 300yds on
		 the Right.

	Fri A.M. Sailed to Dead Mans bay on Peter Island. This is really nice,
		 for a quiet day, but not very well protected unless you get
		 very close to the shore. Half of the beach is reserved for 
		 Peter Island Yacht Harbour Hotel, but the other half is
		 public, and deserted.

	Fri P.M. Sailed to The Bight, on Norman Island. Very nice, but 
		 suprisingly windy. 

	Sat A.M. Sailed to Little Harbour, Jost Van Dyke. Another lovely
		 anchorage. Lunched ashore at Abe's, which was fairly basic,
		 and the service was very laid back. Who cares ?

	Sat P.M. Sailed to Sopers Hole. This was pretty crowded, with not much
		 anchoring space left. Ate ashores in Pussers Landing, which
		 was excellant, and drunk a Painkiller or two. ( Recipe :
		 2 oz of Pussers Rum ( dark ), 1 oz Orange Juice, 1oz 
		 coconut cream, 4oz pinapple juice, served with ice )
	                                
	Sun A.M. Sailed to Cane Garden Bay, which is really idyllic, except
		 that it is now rather crowded. The day we were there, there
		 was a large party from a cruise ship which was moored in
		 Roadtown, and a lot of rowdy young American lads. We were
		 recommended NOT to eat at Rhymers by two seperate parties who
		 had suffered stomach problems.

	Sun P.M. Sailed to Great Harbour, Jos Van Dyke. This looked nice, but
		 one of the beach bars decided that everybody needed to be
		 treated to a bit of local culture in the shape of Reggae
		 music, blaring out so loud that it was intrusive half a mile
		 across the bay. As we had heard that this can go on until
		 2 a.m., we decided to go back to Little harbour.

	Mon A.M. Returned to Great Harbour to clear customs, and walk along the
		 beach. This really is a nice place, so it was a real shame
	         about the previous evening. From here we went to Cruz Bay,
		 St. John, to Clear into, and out of ( at the same time ) U.S.
		 waters. You have 48 hours to leave after clearing out of U.S.
		 so if you only intend on spending a couple of days, then this
		 is the sensible option. There is a little shopping in Cruz
		 Bay, and Caneel (SP?) Bay is just round the corner. This
		 looked very nice, but rather man-made in comparison with the
		 rest of the Islands. We didn't stop there.

	Mon P.M. Sailed to Leinster Bay. This is well worth a visit, with
		 excellant snorkelling off Waterlemon Cay, wild Turtles and
		 the restored remains of the Annaberg Sugar mill, which are
		 worth the walk.

	Tue A.M. Sailed to Round Bay, which is just to the east of Hurricane
		 Hole. This area was really deserted, I don't know why, and
		 had nice beaches all around.

	Tue P.M. Motored round to Coral Harbour. This was a rather drab and
		 run down place, which still showed signs of Hurricane damage,
		 but we did find a great Restaraunt called Shipwrecks Landing.
		 It is a little way from the Harbour, but they will collect you
		 by arrangment. Be warned, the Conch Fritters are HOT. Good
		 Cocktails too. Nice atmosphere with inobtrusive live music 
		 most nights.

	Wed A.M  Looked into Hurricane Hole. This is wonderfully sheltered 
		 from all directions except South-east, but is all mangroves
		 with no beaches, so not very attractive. When Hurricane Hugo
		 came, it blew from the South East, so all the boats which
		 had been brought here as a precaution, were lost. After this
		 we went to Roadtown where we spent the afternoon. This was
		 good for shopping ( More T-shirts, spices, pictures, books,
		 food and drink but not much else ) and restaraunts. We moored
		 at Village Cay which was a bit expensive ( 90 cents a foot )
		 and the water we took on there was too salty to drink.

	Thu A.M. Sailed to Salt Island. The anchorages were not very
		 sheltered, but there were moorings in the western bay,
		 which is where the wreck of the RMS Rhone is. There is a 
		 lot of diving activity here so be careful. We didn't go
		 ashore.

	Thu P.M. Back to the Charter base at Fat Hogs Bay to replace the
		 outboard which was hit by some idiot who misjudged trying
		 to duck our stern. He very nearly sunk the dinghy in the
		 process !. From here we went on to Trellis Bay, which was
		 nice but rather crowded. Beware the reef which extends south
		 from the Island in the middle ( Bellamy Cay ). The English
		 run restaraunt ( The Last Resort ) is supposed to be good
		 with a Cabaret, we didn't try it.

	Fri A.M. Sailed to Cooper Island again, for Lunch. As the weather was
		 very windy and squally, we stayed all afternoon and night as
		 well.

 	Sat A.M. Sailed to Maya Cove, which is a small bay just to the east
		 of Fat Hogs. The entrance is tight, with only a small gap
		 through the reef, marked with very small buoys. Not much
		 in here, except a bar.

	Sat P.M  Back to Marina Cay, for more snorkelling off the beach, and
		 a last night meal at the Restaraunt, where the Lobster was
		 wonderful, as were the Cocktails. Thoroughly recommended.

	Sun A.M. Sailed round to the west side of Guana Island, where there
		 are a couple of good anchorages, which are a well away from	
        	 the other areas, so are very quiet.

	Sun P.M  Sailed back to Fat Hogs Bay to finish.

	We chartered an Irwin 45 from Go Vacations, who were very
	professional. The boat was in good condition and immaculately clean,
	and I would use them again. Their staff were very friendly and helpful
	and knew how to make their customers happy. The criticisms about their
	trawler fleet in an earlier note surprise me, as their experience
	requirements are fairly high ( I guess the guy could have lied to them)
	and anyway, most of the large charter companies have trawlers to rent
	now. GO were considerably cheaper than some of the other companies.
	
        The only criticism was of their collision insurance, which we took
	out, which did not cover the first $500 of damage to Dinghies & 
	outboards. This left us with a $300 bill for the damaged outboard,
	although we felt that this should have been covered under the
	accidental damage clause ( only the first $100 to pay ). This left
	a slight shadow over the end of the holiday, but I don't reckon that
	we can do much about it.

	If anybody needs any other info, please contact me,

	Chris.
		 	
    

        Since this topic has ranged into the area of general information
    on BVI trips, how about any reports anyone might have on some nice
    secluded anchorages, off the beaten track, in the BVI.
    
         Some people like parties every night, others, nice quiet
    semi-private anchorages (quite often a mixture though).
    
         When I was down there for a week, last December (also GO Vac.)
    on an Irwin 32, I found one nice spot, on the back side of Peter
    Island called White(s?) Bay (another one).  It seems a bit open,
    but between Peter island, and Normans island, the area is actually
    fairly well protected.
    
         When we were there, the resorts hadn't opened yet after Hugo,
    so the beach was available (not sure if it's normally private or
    not?).  A little bit along the shore there was some nice snorkeling.
    
         Anyway, taking into account the quite important precautions
    about coral (this area was clear), what other anchorages have other
    people "discovered"?
    
    Bob Halsey

    Some of the southern anchorages on St. Johns are secluded simply
    because they are not on on or near the channel.  Most of the anchorages
    "allowed" by the charter companies are the popular ones and also the
    safer ones to get into and out of.  Many of the day anchorages may be
    suitable in calm weather but I'd be cautious with these.  The anchorage
    in question on Peter Island I believe has restrictions due to the
    private residence there.  There is a nice anchorage on the south west 
    side of Guana? or Great Camanoe? just before you go through Monkey Cut 
    from Cane Garden Bay that is usually pretty deserted even in the day.  
    There are scattered anchorages in Gorda Sound away from the resorts but
    not well protected from all points.  The sand bar as you make the turn 
    to go to the Bitter End may provide a nice quiet spot for the night.  
    Necker Island which is privately owned,  has some nice secluded spots 
    but, they are not easily gotten to and some companies may not allow you 
    to go there.  White Bay on Jost Van Dyke is nice, quiet, but there is a 
    restaurant there which is supposedly very good.  The pass through the 
    reef is marked by a transit.  There is more than one anchorage on Great
    St. James if you need to stay close to St. Thomas.  There are two
    anchorages on Cooper Island though the holding ground is not very good
    due to it being grassy. 
	
    If you are looking for "the only boat in sight" seclusion,  I think
    that is hard to find these days unless you are there off season.  
    
    Enjoy,
    
    Brian 

    Of my three BVI charters, the most enjoyable involved a side trip
    to Anegada.  I was chartering from Tortola Yacht Charters, who have
    since gone belly up, in an Endeavor 33. Somehow they got their
    insurance to permit me to do this.  In their last year, probably out of
    desperation, they were advertising this authorization to qualified
    charterers.
    
    I don't remember the exact distance now, but it was about 20 miles or
    so, including crossing the open-water seas coming through the Channel
    between Horseshoe reef and  the small island just north of Virgin
    Gorda.   These waves were about six feet high for about a third of the
    leg.
    
    The approach had to be done with care:  first you had to stay West of a
    range line from a particular feature on the island to avoid coral heads
    that are part of Horseshoe reef.  And it took a few hours of sailing
    before you could see the low island (on which to see the feature that
    you took the range from) in the first place.  It was interesting that
    the first thing one saw was a line of coconut trees coming out of the
    sea across the horizon.   The highest elevation on the island is about 25
    feet.
    
    Following this range line to the island, we came to what were to have
    been two marker buoys through the reef.  Unfortunately, one was on the
    beach (!)   but at that point we could figure it out.  We followed the
    channel in until it looked like I was trapped by black features that
    looked like coral.  I had my wife circle the boat while I radioed in to
    the hotel we were outside of.  They told us then that were already in,
    and that the dark features were only seaweed!   We went into a nice
    sandy anchorage in about 9 feet of water.
    
    One of the nice aspects  is that there were only four other charter
    boats there, and they all came with hired skippers.   I took great
    pride in the fact that every one of them ran aground to some degree as
    they came in!
    
    The snorkeling on the reefs was spectacular, and there was not the
    ambience of the other BVI anchorages -- I didn't feel as threatened by
    duffers dragging anchors into me in the middle of the night.  There was
    a comeraderie between all the people there that didn't exist at any
    other anchorages.
    
    Next time I go I will charter from a company that will let me do that
    trip again;  and also, I will stay for three days so that I can do some
    scuba on the spectacular reefs.
    
    Don
    

    A couple of other favorites come to mind, evoked by .-2.  
    First, the island north of Virgin Gorda whose name I couldn't recall
    (in .-1) was Necker Island.
    
    One of my favorite anchorages is Marina Cay.  I hate to broadcast this
    since one would not expect it, being near the Beef Isl airport.  I have
    a book, "My Little Island" by the couple who bought the Island and
    built it up.  It has an interesting story about a German armed boat
    that came to the island and tried to commandeer it (around 1940).  The
    German commander was about to take the author's wife, when the black
    servant came running up shouting "Master, master, their boat is
    adrift!!)  He ordinarily did not call the author by the title
    "Master"...   The germans ran off to swim to retrieve the boat, and
    they were not heard from again.
    
    The other favorite place I've always gone to is White Beach (Bay??) on
    Jost Van Dyke, (mentioned by .-2)  at which there is an excellent
    Cordon Bleu chef (or at least there was then) who ran a restaurant, the
    Soggy Dollar Bar.  It's not a good place to anchor overnight, and
    getting in is a little complicated as there is a pair of range marks
    you line up, one on the roof of the restaurant to go in through a
    narrow cut in the reef, in 10 feet of water.  The second time I went
    there, one of the range marks was obscured by tree branch which had
    grown too large.  So I found a second (of the three that exist) opening
    in the reef.
    
    When we stayed for dinner late in the evening, we anchored our boat in
    Great Bay (Harbor??) and took our dinghy around the point to the
    restaurant (about a mile) in the dark.
    
    The food was always excellent, (usually the best of the trip) and it
    was a fixed price, no-choice meal, although one could do some
    negotiation on would be served.
    
    Don
    

    Anegada is one of the places that "most" companies will not let you go
    to.  CYC was rather nonchalant about it with us, don't know why
    particularly.  The manager on duty even suggested we go there but
    recanted after remembering the hotel/restaurant was closed.  To get
    there, it is a straight shot almost due North from the entrance to
    Gorda Sound.  We did a day sail in this direction since it was a reach
    out and a reach back and saw the trees in about an hour after leaving
    the entrance to the sound.  It is a hazardous place to approach and
    more than a few charter boats go hard aground out there each year.  As
    we came back to CYC, they were working on one that did just that during
    the same week we were there.  Needless to say the folks at CYC were not
    amused.   

    I'm in the planning stages for my second charter in BVI. Does anyone
    have any current info as to which nites are the best to be in different
    anchorages? For example, when do the different places have bands, pig
    roasts, etc. From reading this note, it seems as though things change
    as to which days/nites are the best at diffeent hot spots.
    
    I'll be going down the end of May for 10 days.
    
    Thanks
    
    Joe C.

    Ok, I as well as Joe Carrera (re: .40) have some questions. So how bout
    all you lucky dogs who have been to the isles talk to us.  :^)    
    
    Joe, we may get some more up to date responses after this winter's
    sailing season.
    
    I had planned a trip a few years ago that fell through. But I'm glad to
    say I'm in the planning stages again. I'm planning an early June trip
    mostly cause of the better prices availible. This will be my first time
    to the BVI's and I have tons of questions. So you will be seeing several 
    notes in here, from me.
    
    I have grown up and learned how to sail in the North East. I do not
    know what warm water is, except my bathtub. So I'm looking forward to  
    this very much. I've heard all the stories. I cant imagine looking at
    my anchor to see if its set! 
    
    For now some general questions then more specific as time draws near.
    1- Any comparisons of the following Charter Companies?
	CYC
	Caribbean Sailing Charters
	Moorings

    2- How much importance do you place on, where you base out of?
    
    Thanks much. I'll be talking to you!
    Don

    This is not my first time in the BVI. We spent 1 week at the Bitter End
    Yacht Club on Virgin Gorda, and have chartered a 42' boat from CSY and a
    38' from CYC. My preference for a base is the BVI due to the difference
    in cruising taxes, and I prefer to sail in the BVI as opposed to USVI.
    Basically, I don't care for crowds, and BVI is much more remote, in my
    opinion (except for the BATHS).
    
    The water is clear, constand breeze, warm sum, good rum.
    
    Joe
    

    RE: H20 temps,  they will be very warm even when snorkeling deeply. 
    Figure mid 80's.  
    
    I can only vouch for CYC from first hand expeience but we did spend a
    night at the Moorings base in Tortola unexpectedly.  CYC is a
    professional outfit albeit a little on the laid back side.  We had the
    option of leaving the afternoon we arrived which would have been
    pushing it since it was about 3:00 and we needed to provision yet. 
    They also suggested we visit Anageda but we had also chartered with
    them before and with another company so we sort of knew the area.  
    
    They give nothing away including the arrival night sleep aboard.  It's up 
    to you but you will probably pay as much to stay on the boat as a hotel 
    room would cost if a party of four were to share a room.  If two couples 
    go and each get a room, it is cheaper to stay aboard.  CYC has retired
    their old boats and replaced them with Hylas 44,47,51 and a few Tayana
    52's.  The 44 has the best two couple layout with about equal sized
    state rooms.  The dinghy comes with the boat but they hit you with a
    $4.00/day motor rental fee.  Wind scoops can be rented also for some
    silly little fee.  Seems silly to me but that's how they do it.  I would 
    charter with them again and have recommended them to others with good 
    results.
    
    CYC is out of St. Thomas which some folks seem put off by.  It is an
    easy sail to Jost Van Dyke or even Cooper, Norman or Cane Garden Bay. 
    Regardless of where you leave from, St. John's is a nice place to visit
    and should not be overlooked.  Provisioning on St. Thomas is slightly
    cheaper than the BVI's but availability is better.  The only real place
    to do any major provisioning other than St. T. is Road Town.  St.
    John's has some provisioning but not to the level of either St. Thomas
    or Road Town.  CYC is on the eastern end of the island so getting to
    St. John's or the BVI's is easy and straight forward through Current
    Cut near Great St. James island.  
    
    The Moorings has also been upgrading their fleet but they continue to use 
    Beneteau's predominately.  The boats are nice and well maintained.  
    They are the most expensive but also the most attentive with chase boats 
    available to bring you ice and other necessities.  They have a very 
    regimented check out procedure, everyone goes out at the same time and 
    the chart checks are all at the same time etc.  You can pretty much 
    guarantee things will work which is something I would value while on a 
    vacation.  I believe they include the windsurfer and windscoops etc.  
    The Mooring's is also the most restrictive with all sorts of rules that
    need to be followed like taking the dinghy motor off the dinghy and
    storing it on the rail at all times the dinghy is not being used.  They
    are very strict about where you can go.  I don't know what sort of
    penalty they hit you with but the warnings are apparently stern.  
    
    Carribbean Sailing Charters is an unknown and I cannot comment except I
    did see one of their boats in trouble and they were unable to hail the
    charter base.  I believe they are out of Charlotte Amalie which is kind
    of inconvenient from the recommended destinations.  I do not know
    about their service.
    
    As for where to leave from,  most popluar charter base is Road Town,
    Tortola.  A vast majority of the fleets are there and this is the usual
    intended destination for everyone.  The usual route is to head East and
    North to get to Virgin Gorda and sail down wind on the way back.  We
    usually go North around the outside of Tortola and get to Virgin Gorda
    in two days and bounce around from there.  I prefer leaving from St.
    Thomas for the following reasons.
    
    Flights in are usually earlier and therefore you spend less time
    travelling allowing for more time vacationing.  
    
    If anyone in your party wants to do major shopping, St. Thomas is the
    place for it.
    
    If you are provisioning all or part of your trip yourself, St. Thomas
    is more convenient in hours, and variety and prices are generally
    cheaper.  
    
    St. Thomas is farther from the usual cruising grounds but depending
    upon where you are, not much.  It also means you must plan to be near
    by on the morning of your return home.  We have made it back from Jost
    Van Dyke in time by leaving around 8:00 to get back in time for Noon.  
    This is not possible if you leave from Charlotte Amalie however. 
    
    Leaving from the USVI requires you to clear into the BVI's.   This can
    be done in several places and does not need to occur immediately upon
    arrival.  There is a visitation tax levied for the time of your stay.  
    
    You are more likely to have problems in St. Thomas with theft and
    possibly physical violence if travelling alone in town at night.  
    
    All in all, I still prefer to leave from St. Thomas as long as it is
    not from Charlotte Amalie.  
    
    Brian

    I had great luck with SunSail Stevens. Read 1652.9. I'd strongly
    recommend them. They went out of their way in every way to insure our
    stay was enjoyable. Pussers landing is next door, which is a very
    enjoyable place to begin your vacation.  Starting from there leaves you
    easy access to St John (less than 1-2 miles away) or Norman Island.
    It's an easy destination at the end of the trip should you do a
    counter-clockwise or clockwise tour of the BVI islands. Jost Van Dyke
    is at most 90-120 minutes away in a gentle breeze.
    
    Have fun and be prepared to see if your anchor is set from Deck. When
    we went we had 85 foot visibility from Deck. It's almost spooky at
    first...You have to figure if that coral head is 5 ft or 50 feet below
    you... You can see both!
    
    Robert

I chartered a boat in the BVI's this past July... undoubtedly one of the best 
weeks of my life.  However, I do not share the same glowing reviews of 
Stevens/SunSail with some of the other Noters.  Although they have a very 
beautiful and convenient location, I felt like they got all of the big things 
right and all of the little things wrong.  The service and attitude was
lacking.

The person who checked us out was almost impossible to understand and not at
all familiar with the boat.  He was unable to answer the most rudimentary 
questions, like "Where is the off-1-2-all battery switch?" (There wasn't one.)
None of the engine gauges worked.  We slept aboard the night before, so they 
told us to use the restrooms and showers that were ashore.  This was
reasonable, but they were the filthiest that we saw the entire trip, and
completely void of toilet paper.  When we went to leave the next day we noticed
that the binnacle compass was missing, thus delaying our departure.  The anchor
windlass gave  a serious electrical shock every time it was used.  The sink in
the aft head had a nifty  fold-into-bulkhead arrangement, but they neglected to
tell us to close the through-hull every time we sailed or expect the bilge to
quickly overflow.   The bilge pump did not work until I removed all of the (now
floating) floor boards and found an in-line filter that look as though it had
never been cleaned.

Anyway, you get the idea.  There were several other little problems, but none
that kept the boat from moving, the sun from shining, or the beer from staying
cold.  The one thing that irritated me the most though was the way they treated
us when we checked-in.  We spent 20 minutes with a woman who inventoried the
entire boat.  She was all ready to make out a bill when we finally found 
the pillow case the had secretly hidden in the bottom drawer.  Think about the
irony of this, I had just spent a week sailing this $150,000 boat through
coral reefs and now was being treated as though I was Blackbeard himself
for misplacing a plastic butter knife.

Maybe I'm overly picky or maybe it's just that my only other experience was
with Abaco Bahama Charters.  I considered ABC to be as close to perfect as a
charter company gets.

One comment on the boat.  We had a Centurion 40, this was a beautiful boat with
a luxurious double cabin.  This luxury came at the cost of cockpit, it was
smaller than any I've seen on a boat over 20 feet LOA.  Barely room for four
adults.

And now the good news...

If your going to the baths (You are going to the baths), I recommend spending
the previous night at Marina Cay or Cooper Island.  Leave your mooring at the
crack of dawn and be the first one there.  That's what we did, the rest of my
crew was able to explore the area when it was completely deserted.  I was
unsure of the anchorage so I waited until they were back, meanwhile another
fifty boats arrived (This was off season.)  My wife said the snorkeling was
unbelievable before the crowd arrived (Merely amazing when I went.)  By the
time we left around 10:30 or 11:00 the water looked like a mall parking lot.

Another great lunch stop is at Monkey Point, which is at the south end of the
private island (I forget it's name) that is just west of the Camanoe's. 
Although it wasn't on my chart, there are two or three day moorings there
provided by the park service.  Great snorkeling, neat rock formations and
caves.  Deserted when we were there.

Have fun. Feel free to call if I can answer any questions. (dtn 352-2132)

-Dan  

October 28-NOvember 9 will be our fifth charter from the Moorings out of 
Tortola.

We have been very pleased with their service on our four previous trips.  

We've never been at this season.  We expect rain and some blustery weather, 
but it's past most of the danger of hurricanes.  And, the area can't be beat.

My wife and I are relatively new sailors, having started three years ago.
Each of our charters has taught us more, both about sailing, and the area.

Our best experiences:

1. Lobsters at the Anegada Reef Hotel.
2. Sailing from Anageda to Cane Garden Bay in a series of July squalls -- my
first bad weather experience.  Winds 25-30 knots at times, zero visibility, 
perhaps tame for some, but not for us at the time.
3. Any time at the Bight at Norman Island.
4. Dinner at Abe's in Little Harbor, JVD.
5. Finding a VAXCluster in Road Town running the wholesale food business!
(And giving serious thought to a career change to being an on-site Services
resident).

At any rate, never chartered from anyone else, so I can't really compare.  

But we decided from the start to pay the small amount more for what many
consider the best of the outfits in the BVI.

The Moorings does now have some boats other than Beneteaus in their fleet.

Their new 433 is made by Hunter.  The new 50 is made by Morgan.  Having taken
a Morgan 50 last Spring, I wouldn't again.  It is not a simple boat.  It has an
inverter, a microwave, and lots of other things to break.  Next time the size
of the party demands a big boat, I'd go with the 500 ( a Beneteau).

We've had great luck with the 432's, a nice, simple, and very fast boat, the 
only flaw in which is a lack of handholds below.

Bruce

If anyone is interested, I have lots of information on where to go, where to
stay away from, and so forth.

    RE: -.2:
    
    Monkey Pt. is on Guano Island.  The moorings there are new within the
    last few years.  There is a resort (exclusive) on the island and the
    beaches are private but I think visitation is tolerated as long as you
    do not venture too far inland.  
    
    RE: -.1:
    
    Your weather should be just as nice as at any other time of the year
    though you may experience slighlty more rain.  Fall if the rainy
    season.  Most of the precipitation we experienced was at night which is 
    an inconvenience only from the standpoint of having to get up to close 
    hatches etc.  The winds can be fluky at this time of year also and
    generally do not pick up until December.  
    
    Brian
    

>    Monkey Pt. is on Guano Island.  The moorings there are new within the
>    last few years.  There is a resort (exclusive) on the island and the
>    beaches are private but I think visitation is tolerated as long as you
>    do not venture too far inland.  
    
    Iguana Island - (Guano is some other s**t.) The Island is so called
    because of a rock sticking out of one of the cliffs, that looks like
    the head of an Iguana.
    
    We spent the last day of our cruise anchored off there, it was very
    quiet, apart from the hundreds of pelicans. The beaches were deserted,
    ( in February - supposedly high season ) but we didn't try and land.
    
    Chris
    
    

    	I have chartered twice with Island Yachts out of Red Hook on 
    St. Thomas.  The boat I chartered was an S2 9.2C, and while the 
    center cockpit layout does cause greater windage the aft cabin is
    quite comfortable.  Both trips were 2 weeks during the Aug,Sept,Oct
    time period.  I enjoyed the off-season pace, and if your timing is
    right you may even catch the wooden boat race sponsored by Foxy's
    Here are a few of my favorite off-season anchorages.
    
    		Leinster bay, St John: I have had the bay to myself
    several times.  The swimming/snorkeling off Waterlemon cay is nice,
    as is the walk around the Anenberg sugar mill ruins.  The anchorage
    is well sheltered.
    
    		The Bight, Normans Island is nice, but I think it was 
    quieter before the floating bar anchored there.
    
    		The conch fritters and Pussers pain killers were the 
    best at the Cooper Island Beach Club
    
    		Jimmy Buffet was right when he sang "I hear things get
    better, thats what they say, as soon as we sail out of Cane Garden
    Bay".
    
    
    	Has anyone made the trip to St Croix?  I got the OK from
    Island Yachts, but not from the weather service.  I was told that
    one should leave from Norman Island.  I think a larger (faster) boat may 
    make the trip more reasonable.
    
    
    	My last trip was in 1986, so some of my information may be
    out of date.  Next year the kids will have enough water under 
    thier keels to make the trip and we will return.
    
    	

    The trip to St. Croix is chronicled in the conference somewhere. 
    Unless there is an overwhelming desire to do open water sailing, St.
    Croix does not have a whole lot to offer for cruising (IMHO).  Nice
    place but there are fewer good anchorages there.  The sail to Culebra
    may be of more interest and it is much closer than St. Croix.  Figure a
    good 10 hours both ways from/to Norman Island.  You need to stand well
    to the west of Buck Island to avoid the reefs as you approach St.
    Croix.  I would personally would not spend two days of a charter
    getting to and from St. Croix by boat.  
    
    Brian

    
    	Much to my surprise I find myself acting as skipper/guide for a
    couple of friends.  After much debate we ended up with a Benneteau
    (sp?) 35S5 for the three of us.  It is going to be just big enough, no
    space to burn this trip.  On the other hand it fit well within the
    budget limits set for the trip.  We are using SunSail out of Sopers
    Hole.  Does anybody know much about them.  The folks I used last time
    have gone out of business as far as I can tell.  Also to keep things
    simple we are planning to stay in the B.V.I's.
    
    
    Forrest

I spent a week on a First 35s5 last spring with four other people and
didn't really find it crowded.  Of course this is all subjective, but
why do you say it's "just big enough."  Are you going for more than a
week or are you planning on bringing lots of scuba gear or other stuff?
With three aboard, you'll have a cabin each which should keep things
from being too terribly crowded.

Tom

    
    	We have three aboard and not a ton of gear.  We are only going for
    a week.  This has to be a charter vacation on a low budget.  The last
    time I went we had a 42 footer for 4 people.  It was not big enough on
    the other hand 100 footer may not hav been big enough with one person
    we had.  I was really more trying to find out more about SunSail..... 
    Horror stories etc we can still change companies have not sent the
    deposit in.
    
    
    Forrest

    Forrest, 
    
    If you haven't already, try calling Ed Hamilton Yacht Charter Agents
    (call 800 info for toll-free number.)  I've just recently concluded
    dealing with them, and very much appreciated their input in selecting
    which company from which to charter a Nonsuch 30.  They pointed out all
    the price differences, location advantages/disadvantages, and most
    importantly (since I based my decision on it) what the boat ownership
    scheme is.  One company had a $200/week lower price, but buys their own
    boats and grinds them into the BVI charter ground by avoiding all but
    absolutely necessary maintenance.  The other BVI company charters only
    private owner boats, and enjoys the best reputation in the area *among
    boat owners* for keeping their vessels in tip-top condition.  Ed said
    the biggest difference in in being able to expect everything to work,
    plus aesthetics.  You might find some similar differentiating info on
    the Beneteau you're interested in.  Different companies sometimes buy
    different versions, and knowing the average age of the fleets may also
    help you decide.
    
    Having worked through an agent, I will never again do otherwise.  They
    don't charge the charterer any commission, they take personal checks or
    plastic without hesitation (even when the charter companies don't), and
    they provide a great deal of helpful information as well.  
    
    John.

    
    	I am using Ed this time just like in the past.  I was just looking
    for a second source of data.  I am hoping to talk to Ed next week on
    some other things like an update to my sailing resume they have on
    file.  I would talk to him now but he is in Tortola at a charter
    show....  Must be tough.....
    
    
    Forrest

    I don't know any about the company, but we were in BVI in April/May
    this year, and visited sopers hole for three times. The boats seemed to be
    in very good condition, I think they have quite a lot down there. And
    they had 3 people there to look after the fleet. We had to ask for help
    for our engine of the dingi, they were very friendly.
    
    The Marina, sure with Pusser's is a very nice, but a little expensive
    place, but you forget about the prices after the second pain killer.
    
    Sigh, have to stay here, Bianca             

    Forrest,
    
    I've used Sunsail Stevens out of Sopers hole before. My wife and I
    charted a 32S5 from them for 10 days. They were great! The people were
    very helpful, the boat was perfect. We were so impressed with how they
    treated us, we chartered from them again in St. Lucia.
    
    Sunsail Stevens is a quality outfit, from my experience and I will use
    them again when I go to the BVI's.
    
    Call me if you want more info after turkey day. dtn 486-6496.

    	Thanks, we have opted to do the shopping for food ourselves rather
    than use their service.  We are going to let them provide drinks simply
    because we have decided we do not want to haul cases of drinks.   This
    leads to the question about food shopping at Sopers hole.  I know we
    can trek into town at a price if it comes to that.  Also curious about
    state of misc. items like fins, masks etc.  I want to haul as little as
    possible down....  
    
    
    Forrest

    I suggest you take your own fins and mask to insure the best possible
    fit.  I like to do this but it does add to the carry on load.  DO NOT
    pack them in a soft bag and check them in.  I bought four masks this
    way :-(.   The best place was the big supermarket/warehouse place near
    the Moorings which is the other side of Road Town.  Shouldn't be more 
    than a $5.00 ride each way.  Do you have a cruising guide yet?  If so,
    they are pretty good when it comes to recommendations for provisions
    etc.  If not, I can look it up for you tonight.
    
    Brian

    Brian,
    
    	We have a guide but I have it going between the various folks going
    with me.  I knew about going into Rhode town but had hoped to avoid it. 
    I just got our flight schedule and we will be getting in later than I
    had hoped for.  Will make getting into town the first afternoon almost
    mission impossible.  As for mask and fins I largely do not care, almost
    never use fins, and I get along fine with swim goggles.....  I will let
    the others make their own choices....
    
    
    Forrest

    If you are flying into St. Thomas first, you can opt for the ferry to
    Soper's Hole or Road Town which may be more convenient than your
    flight time wise.  I think the ferry ride is only like 20 minutes but I 
    don't know the schedule.  If you are flying into Puerto Rico first this
    is a moot point.  It was cheap though if I remember correctly.  This
    may give you a few extra hours buffer to provision up on your arrival. 
    I also like to get this done as soon as I get there so the first full
    day is not taken up with running around looking for things.  Since
    you arrive at Beef Island and have to drive past Road Town, you may be
    able to provision on your way to the boat but this will be a hassle
    with all of your luggage.  They may stay open into the evening though. 
    One attraction about leaving from St. Thomas is that the supermarkets are 
    open later but you are farther from wherever you want to go. 
    
    Have a blast in any event.  I am more than a little envious with all this 
    talk about chartering!  Last night as I was replacing the exhaust header on
    my car, in the rain, in the dark, I was thinking how much nicer it would 
    be to be sitting in the Wm B. Thornton in the Bight at Norman's Island 
    sipping pain killers and pasting decorated dollar bills to the ceiling :-)!
    Have a great time!  
    
    Brian

    	Flights are Boston to San Jaun with one stop, and then over to 
    Beef Island.  If something is open in the evening provision that
    evening.  If not send one of the group in, in the morning, and get
    checked out while they shop.  I can then fill the shopper in about
    proper use of the head etc. later.....  But with getting into Beef
    Island at 15:20 factoring the speed of customs, and the ride to the
    Sopers Hole I expect to get there about 17:00..  Not much of a chance
    to shop that evening.....  We are not planning on buying all that much
    food.  Simple stuff for breakfast, some lunch meats and bread, and some
    burgers and dogs for dinner.  None of us are into cooking and expect to
    eat dinner ashore every other night....  We are going to whimp out and
    pay a little more to have the charter folks put soda, juices, etc. on
    board instead of hauling it ourselves.

    Forrest

    
    Hey ! its not the BVI ...but...
    	
    	We still have two slots left for our SAIL93 trip!
    
    	FOUR BOATS !    NO WAITING !!!
    
    	28 people are going as it stands right now...we haveoom for
    	 2 more!   
    
    	Boat 1	Southern Cross	75' Ketch
    	Boat 2	Vanassa Rose	47' Sloop
    	Boat 3  Neuva Vida	48' Ketch
    	Boat 4  Bold Response   38' Sloop
    
    	Jan 8 - Jan 18   $800 covers it all  ! including transport down
    	to lauderdale !  
    
    	We will be visiting Southern Florida and the northern bahamas !!
    
    				for more info call 
    				or write today !!!
    
    				Georgia Hilton
    				BTOVT::HILTON_G
    
    				DTN 266-4077
    

Forrest,

I chartered from SunSail a couple summers ago.  I have a previous note that 
describes a few minor complaints with SunSail.  When I think back about it
though, I think that most of them had to do with the boat.  It was a Wauquez
Centurian 40' that they had acquired from La Vida when they went out of business.
It was different from and older than the standard models in their fleet, and I 
think its state of repair reflected that.  Like I said before, none of it kept
me from smiling continuously.  I doubt that you'll similar problems with the
B 35.5.

For provisioning I would strongly reccomend The Ample Hamper.  They are 
located immediately next door to SunSail and specialize in custom provisioning
for a charter boats. If you'd like I'll try to find their phone number.  Call 
and have them send you their 10+ page menu/shopping list.  They'll deliver 
your order right to your galley.  They also have a retail store with an even 
wider selection.  Even the fresh steak looked terrific (honest.)  They may have 
been slightly pricey but the quality and service was second to none.  If I were
to do it again (oops, I mean when) I would do all of my provisioning with The
Ample Hamper, some ordered in advance and some purchased the morning we pull out.

Have fun.  Feel free to call me 352-2132 if you want more info.

-Dan

    
    	I have their grocery list for premade packages.  We have decided
    that we are going to shop instead.  If they are located right there and
    the prices are not out of sight then we will probably use them.  I have
    never been into Sopers Hole so had no idea what was there.....
    
    	I know the condition of the boat can make a big difference.  The
    last time we ran into folks who used the boat we had in the past.  They
    had trouble with the heads clogging we had none....  They had vowed to
    never use the boat or the charter company again.  We had a water pump
    impeller pack it up.  I just treated that as part of life and made and
    watched the windsurfing race while waiting for the repair person to
    show up.  No big deal but others in our group were mightly pissed.... 
    Some other things were less than perfect on the boat but it was the end
    of high season and the boat was going out of service when we returned
    it for a major cleaing and painting.  We ran into the owners and they
    wanted to look it over to see if what they were paying for in the way
    of repairs were being done.  They left muttering that it was not up to
    the standard they expected but that nothing major had been overlooked
    that they could tell.
    
    Forrest

    Forrest,
    Sunsail has two large lockers of masks and snorkles. Even my wife (who
    is next to impossible to fit with a mask) found one. It all depends on
    who digs into the pile prior to you. 
    I second the ample hamper. Their prices weren't greatly different than
    road town- they were ever so slightly higher (for the convenience I
    guess). Their stuff was fresh, but a more limited selection than in
    Road town.
    
    Have fun!
    Robert

    Well, We've decided to go back to the BVI's and go sailing Next week.
    We are going to add the USVI's into the itinerary this time. We plan on
    sailing to St. Croix from St John's after the 4th of July festivities-
    Does anyone have any input on things to do/avoid on St Croix? I've read
    the cruising guides and Birbaum's Caribean travel book - they list
    quite a bit, but I'm looking for first hand knowledge.
    
    I'm also looking for advice on where the best place to clear customs is
    back in the BVI's. Jost Van Dyke is soooo slooowww. Anyone have
    experiece with Sopers hole vs. Road Town?
    
    Thanks,
    Robert

    
    Re: .67 Clearing customs in Tortola.
    
    If I remember correctly Sopers Hole is the west end of Tortola, yes?
    It's a small, quiet place.  Should be no problem.
    
    Steve
    

    
    Well, St. Croix may seem a bit tame after the 7/4 activities on St.
    John.  I was in St. John for the Carnivale a couple of years ago, and
    it was pretty wild (but then again, so _was_ I)
    
    If you don't have a particular place to go on St. Croix, it may
    actually seem like there's not much to do.  Visit Christiansted, which
    is rather rich in history, or go out to Fredericksted, which will seem
    a bit slummier.  Normally, the cruise ships dock at F-sted, so there's
    plenty of T-shirt shopping around.
    
    Besides that, the diving can be pretty good, especially on the north
    shore near Kane Bay, although I've heard that their reef was
    significantly damaged in a hurricane several years back.
    
    One stop you'll want to make is to Buck Island.  They have pre-set
    anchorages there, and an underwater snorkeling trail.  That's always
    good for a day's picnic and beach activities.  
    
    FWIW,
    Bob
    

    You can clear back in on Virgin Gorda also at the yacht haven,
    Northwestern end near the baths.  Soper's has usually been relatively
    efficient especially compared to Jost.  There are some gunkholes around
    St. Croix but I seem to remember that their wasn't the variety and
    quality of anchorages compared to the other islands.  Buck Island is
    the big attraction as stated previously.  Personally, I would recommend
    spending more time on and around St. John versus spending a day down
    and a day back to get see St. Croix.  Christanstead is rich in history
    but there wasn't anything really unique about it that would make me
    want to go there by boat on a charter.  In any event, have a blast!
    
    Brian

    Thanks for the feedback. I'll let you know how things go when I get
    back.
    

    Just got back from a one week charter with the Moorings in the BVI. If
    you are planning a BVI charter, not to worry about lingering hurricane
    damage. Except for Saba Rock missing its kitchen and part of its deck
    (the bar was open) and except for a  missing WB Thornton in The Bight
    at Norman Island, everything seemed quite normal and unaffected by the
    storms. Unfortunately  a couple that visited St. John the day before
    our charter started, did not  find the same there. Some beaches they
    planned to visit were closed. Their tour guide did say things were
    starting to return to more normal conditions.

    A quick summary of my charter follows:

    - Travel: American Airlines Boston to San Juan, American Eagle to
      Tortola.

    - Hotels: Treasure Isle two nights before the charter, Mariner Inn one
      night after. Both are owned or affiliated with the Moorings but after
      discovering upgraded rooms (new air conditioning) at the Mariner we
      changed to the Mariner for the last night. Especially at charter end,
      I think it is a great convenience to stay at the Mariner.

    - Yacht: Moorings 445, very nice boat and I only wished for a larger
      genoa. 

    - Day One: After the charter briefing, checklist work, lunch and last
      minute provisioning we motored to Deadman's Bay, Peter Island. Before 
      the trip I was told the Peter Island Hotel and beach had been damaged. 
      From a distance I did not notice any hotel damage and the beach at 
      Deadman's Bay was fine, but Big Reef Bay Beach on the opposite side of 
      the island had a couple trees down and heavy equipment had apparently 
      been working on the beach. Saw my first sea turtles.

    - Day Two: Sailed to the Baths for snorkeling and lunch. From there we
      sailed to the Bitter End Yacht Club, Virgin Gorda. Windsurfing,
      dinner at the BEYC and after dinner drinks at Saba Rock. 

      Note: Moorings did not have the windsurfer we had reserved (several
      were on the rack but none were usable) so we got one from Boardsailing 
      BVI. Moorings is a great charter company, but they would do themselves 
      and their customers a favor by outsourcing the windsurfing business. If 
      I rent a windsurfer again, I will rent directly from Boardsailing BVI. 
      Better equipment (same brand but in excellent condition) plus great 
      service. 

    - Day Three: Dinghied around and snorkeled off Prickly Bear Island in the 
      morning then met up with two other boats for a sail to Anegada with 
      dolphins as company for a short time. More snorkeling and Caribbean 
      lobster at the Big Bamboo at Loblolly Bay. Maximum elevation of this 
      coral island is only 28 feet. I expected to see hurricane damage, but 
      none was evident. Of course there is little to damage either.

    - Day Four: Woke up in the pre-dawn in time to catch sunrise over Horseshoe
      Reef. Don't miss this. Sailed back to Gorda Sound, this time mooring at 
      Pusser's Leverick Bay. More snorkeling, this time at Anguilla Point and 
      more windsurfing. Dinner on board, but Painkillers at Pussers. Flying 
      fish provided more entertainment.

    - Day Five: Sailed to Great Dog for lunch and snorkeling then sailed 
      to Marina Cay. Dinner on board. At Great Dog, a sea turtle cooperated by 
      swimming directly under me. At Marina Cay, small fish were attracted by
      our dinner lantern and then several very large fish were attracted by 
      the small fish. 

    - Day Six: Sailed to White Bay, Guana Island for lunch and more snorkeling.
      Motored to Cane Garden Bay for dinner and dancing at Quito Rymers and
      late night dancing at Myetts. The Moorings 445 was nice, but I might
      have preferred the Oyster 68 that moored next to us. 

    - Day Seven: Sailed around Tortola West End and up Sir Francis Drake
      Channel to some pre-dinner snorkeling at Pelican Island and the
      Indians. From there, motored a short distance to The Bight, Norman 
      Island. The WB Thornton is gone, but rumor has it that another ship 
      will replace it. Too bad, because the area around The Bight is totally 
      undeveloped and quiet.

    - Day Eight: Back to the Indians for more snorkeling and then 
      back to Road Town. The boat had to be back by 12 noon. Watching the 
      sunset from poolside was the only sad part of the trip.
      
      At night we had a superior, moderately expensive but easily worth it, 
      dinner at Brandywine Estates Restaurant overlooking Brandywine Bay. 
      Dinner on the windscreened dinner porch, then we adjourned to another 
      porch with unscreened views for coffee and dessert. 

    Sunny every day with a few night showers. Average day time temperature
    in the high 80s, comfortable sleeping temperatures, and consistent
    12-18 knot winds. 

    I'd do it again in a minute. If you are lucky enough to be going this year 
    and have any questions, feel free to call.

    - Bob

    PS. Please note that I updated this note to correct a couple references.

    I am sorry ot hear about the apparent demise of the Willie T.  We had
    the chance to close the bar on two occasions last May.  The rotis were
    excellent and the drinks generous.  We also enjoyed Saba Rock and the
    Priates Pub.  The food there was delicious as well.  Sorry to hear of
    the loss of the kitchen.  Hopefully they will rebuild as well. 
    
    Brian