Conference noted::woodworking_and_tools

    I am thinking its time to build a real router table. I am contemplating
    laminating my own top using 3/4 hardwood playwood, then cementing
    3/8" hardboard on both sides, then cementing a laminate top to both
    sides.  The question is will I be able get this top really flat or not. 
    Or is it worth the money to buy an aftermarket top like a woodhaven.
    
    Brian
    

    If I understand what you're trying to do....
    
    I built a simple table out of 'scrap' counter top. I found a local
    discount home-center that had new counter tops for $1 per foot. You're
    limited to about 20" deep if you have to cut off the rolled backsplash.
    It was much cheaper than buying laminate sheets and hardboard stock.
    
    ~jeff

RE: -.2

So I suppose using corian or Melamine is out of the question? Just
hom much stability do you need? Do you expect the table to have a large
span?

I'm curious more than anything.

bill

    
    I'm about to do the same.
    
    I went to Home Depot (ya, I know YUK!!!) and bought 2 pieces of 2x4
    Melamine with an OAK formica like veneer.  The plan is to glue these
    together and band with 3/4 Oak.  Included is a 1/4" (??) plexiglass
    router insert from Woodworkers Warehouse.
    
    I've got the New Yankee Workshop router table plans and I taped Norm
    building his.  The thing I liked about his is the cabinet under and the
    dust collection 'built in'.
    
    I've since bought an Incra ultimate 24" (I guess I'd call it an
    adjustable fence) I forget the exact term.  Scott at Woodcraft
    suggested the 2x4 dimension table and the fence goes parallel with the
    2' side.  This way the fence 'arm' is not hanging in mid-air.  So, I've
    got some redesigning to do.  It may not be 2x4' when I finish. 
    Hopefully, it will be smaller than that.  I'm running out of room in my
    shop.
    
    Norm got his plans from a modification to a set of plans from American
    Woodworker.  These are the best I've seen for a really good table. 
    There are hundreds of plans for router tables out there.  You can
    certainly make a simpler table than this one.
    
    My end goal, if I ever get there, is to get a PC 3HP var speed
    router(7518?? or 7538).  That's another $300 but now I've got a router
    AND a shaper.
    

    To be honest I don't know how stable counter top materials will be for
    my needs on a router table.  I am using the plans from American
    Woodworker, which is where Norm Abrams got the plans for his table.
    
    I know one thing, the table top must be absolutely flat, thats why the
    lamination process is important.  I won't even cut a track into the top
    for a mitre gauge, because many people feel that routed track will
    allow movement and some warpage.  I have a friend who ordered an
    aftermarket top with this slot and it has buckled slightly where the
    mitre slot is.
    
    Brian

    
    Good point.  I plan on cutting that slot.
    
    What about a piece of 1/8 x 3/4 or 1/2" aluminum angle bolted to the
    top from the underside every 3 or 4 inches ??  That would prevent
    buckling.  The banding I add to the outside should help prevent warping
    as well.

I just wanted to share my experiences with router table insert 
materials. I have the Rebel router table which is cast aluminum and 
so is the router insert. The insert is 10" x 10" and is about 3/8" or 
5/16" thick. I had to send it back to have it remachined, so I built 
a temporary insert out of 1/4" acrylic.

That was a mistake. Even with my little 1 1/2 hp router, the 1/4 
acrylic sagged in the center, making it just about useless. 

I guess the message here is that you can make your table top 
perfectly flat, but if your insert material shows any flex, you will 
lose the benefit of your nice, flat table top. The second message is 
to make the insert as small as you can and still get your router 
through it. 10" x 10" is asking a lot of plastic.

I have the aluminum insert plate back now and I'm glad to be rid of 
the acrylic.

Art

I just finished making a router table extension  for my Delta contractors 
saw last week.  I used the plans in Woodsmith Vol. 18 / No. 103 as a guide.
I found 1" particle board at a local store, it was listed as table top 
material, the particles are very fine (I don't have a source for MDF which 
I would have preferred).  I laminated two layers using titebond glue.  I 
then attached oak banding via biscuits.  I finished it off by covering the 
top AND the bottom with formica.  The table turned out absolutely flat!  

I too chose not to make a groove for the miter gauge thinking that it may 
cause a problem.  I don't plan on storing my routers there either.  
The weight causing problems for both the router base and the table.  I 
made an extra insert that I keep in the table.  I got the 3/8" phenolics 
insert material from trendlines, which seems to be very sturdy.

I got some templates from Woodhaven which made routing the hole in the 
top VERY easy and VERY precise!  I used their templates to drill the mounting
holes in the phenolics to mount my routers (Ryobi RE600 and a DeWALT 610) 
The holes aligned perfectly! 

Frankie

    Thats Great news Frankie.  Did you actually make the fence that slips
    over your saw fence too?  
    
    I looked at this as a possible, but decided to make the enclosed table
    instead, I am not limited by space.
    
    I guess I will build the table top after all.  I was planning on buying
    the template from Woodhaven.  Did you buy their levelers for the
    phenolic insert?
    
    Brian

I made the fence, however I did not enclose the ends for a dust pickup.  I may
do that later.  I made it out of 3/4" plywood and covered it all with 1/4"
hardboard.  I did not make the removable inserts.  The hardboard seemed to
"fuzz up" on the edge of the bevel.  I didn't think it would hold up so well.

I made a shorter solid fence out of the 1" partical board,  2 pieces glued
together, that I will dedicate to my raised panel bit.

It is real nice using the existing fence on the table saw.  Very accurate,
locks down solid, etc...

I did purchase the levelers as a backup plan in case the depth of the rabbit
for the insert was not exact.  It turned out just right so I did not use them.

Frankie

If you guys are concerned about the amount of flex you'd get from cutting 
a miter guage guide in two inches of laminated hardwood or composite board,
why aren't you just building a router table from a surplus table saw
or band saw table?  A nice cast aluminum or cast iron table should
solve all these problems.  A little machining underneath to build a mount
would be needed, and surely there's enough room to get a bit up through 
a reasonably sized insert.
Defunct saw tables must be common enough to allow this method to 
work economically.

- tom]

    Tom
    
    I have an aluminum table now and while it is ok, it's too small.  I
    don't think there are too many iron table saw beds to be had because
    you buy them for life and if the motor burns out you buy a new motor. 
    At the cost of 500+ for a table saw, most folks do not junk the table.
    Machining cast iron or a heavy enough aluminum bed would be very
    difficult for most of us woodworkers.  I haven't any idea how one would
    machine, cast iron to mill a router insert cutout in the top.  Besides,
    I nearly got a hernia 8^) trying to lift my Delta Table Saw top when I
    assembled it.  I cannot see myself trying to move that beast around my
    shop whenever I want to use my router stand 8^).
    
    Brian