Conference noted::bicycle

    
    There are a couple of bike-shop veterans in this conference,
    so I'm sure they'll give good advice.  I can only conjecture,
    but here goes...
    
      o       brakes: cables - check and adjust - replace if needed (RIN)*
                      brake blocks - check and adjust (align with rims) - RIN*
                      
                      
      o  drive train: chain - clean and lubricate - check chain length - RIN*
                      rear derailleur - lubricate, adjust (high/low range,
                      front derailleur - same                    alignment)
    	              shifter cables - check and adjust - RIN*
                      freewheel - check for smoothness, tooth-wear - RIN*
                      chainrings - check for smoothness, tooth-wear - RIN*
      
      o       wheels: rims - true if necessary, replace spokes as needed*
                      tires & tubes - check - RIN*                  
                      hubs - check for smoothness, adjustment - overhaul if
                                                                needed*
    
      o bottom bracket: check for smoothness, adjustment - overhaul if needed*
    
      o       cranks: check for tightness
    
      o       saddle: check position (height, level)
    
      o       pedals: check for wear
    
      o       handlebars, stem: check for position, tightness
                      (replace handlebar tape if needed and requested*)
    
      o      headset: check for smoothness, adjustment - overhaul if needed*
    
    * extra charge if parts/labor required

    An hours work? ;-)
    
    It takes me an entire day to completely strip the Trek 1200 down
    to the bearings, gas everything to remove the big clumps of grease,
    Dawn everything again to remove the gas film (that collects dirt
    like crazy), rinse everything, blow dry everything, reassemble it,
    and tweak it back into shape.
    
    OK, ok, I know... a severe case of anal retentive cleaning, but it's
    a new bike afterwards!  (P.S. .0, I'll do it for $55, but you'll also
    need to provide a very wet, cold weekend day!)  -kb 

    
    Bearings are a big job - takes time and you must be careful
    reassembling.  The checklist in .1 doesn't include any disassembly,
    bearings or otherwise, for that reason (except for chain cleaning).
    
    -j

>    It takes me an entire day to completely strip the Trek 1200 down
>    to the bearings, gas everything to remove the big clumps of grease,

Just a note on the above - if, by 'gas' you really mean gasoline, it's really 
not recommended for parts washing. There's a fairly poignant story entered
by a fellow DECcie (in HOMEWORK, maybe..) detailing how his son and the 
neighbor boy were washing dirtbike part in gasoline. Someone lit a cig almost 20
feet away, and the neighbor boy died in the burn hospital about 4 months and
20 operations later. There are lots less dangerous solvents available. Just
say NO to gasoline....
                             ken

I've been using "Citra-solv" on my most recent bike-cleaning endeaver.  It works
very well indeed, better in some ways than petrol-based solvents.  For example, 
it leaves no film.  It also smells good (if you like oranges), and it is 
bio-degradable, though, the oily gunk disolved in it isn't...  I've seen it in 
some of the catalogs, and in health food stores.  In the south (in FL at least), 
Home Depot sells it, but I couldn't find it in H.D. in Nashua.

Barry

Slight tangent but, this notes string reminded me of something.

This past weekend I overhauled the hubs on a friends Trek 1100.  They were rough
and noisy.  Upon disassembly I noted that the grease was somewhat dry.  I cleaned 
and checked all parts and they looked ok.   I regreased, reassembled, and 
adjusted everything.  They now roll better but are still noisy.  I've tried every 
adjustment setting from too tight to too loose and its still noisy.

The only thing that I can think of is that maybe the ball bearings are not
completly round and need to be replaced.  Is this possible?  

Thanks,
Mark 

    
    Mark,
    
    I don't know whether the Trek 1100 still features Biopace
    BB bearings - a bike shop might be able to tell you...
    
    -john

    re.  bad bearings:
    
    
    	You bet!  Bad cones or bearing will roar like a train!
    
    re:  Unsafe solvents:
    
    	I have used mineral spirits; it has a MUCH lower flash point
    	than gasoline.  I'll have to try that citrus based stuff someone
    	mentioned.  The chief drawback to the petrol based stuff is not
    	only the messy film, but the fact that it can run down your spokes
    	and into the rim eyelets--you guessed it!  ...drying out your
    	rubber/butyl tubes & tires.
    
     2
    r

    re:  Landry's....
    
    it's a very good shop.  they're very helpful, they'll explain 
    everything they're doing to you, etc
    
    they're prices are fair, and the quality of the work they do is very
    good.
    
    Landry's lists everything that is included in each type of tune-up that
    they offer on a board in front of their repair area, so you can check
    against the lists you've gotten in this string.
    
    /Cheryl

re .8

Thanks, I'll get some bearings.  The cones looked fine.  No obvious pitting.

re. John

Biopace bearings, eh.  What a feature!  I'll have to get some for the headset
and bottom bracket too.  :)

    RE: .4
    
    I soak my chain in nitroglycerin - it's the only way to get *all* the
    dirt off.  Safety is irrelevant in the interest of a clean chain.
    
    
    				-David

    Right and if there are little cakes of cement that won't come off, you
    just light it!
    
    ed

     Nitro... I like it! I'll have to try it. Personally, I use paint
    thinner. It's relatively inexpensive (by the gallon). It destroys
    the grease and leaves the part squeaky clean (no film). 
    
     Yup, it's flammable, but hell, you got to build some excitement into
    a mundane activity, right?   :-)
    
       Chip

For cleaning parts I either use Acetone or Gumout carb. cleaner.  Both do a good
job.

Mark

All the shots I've seen of the pro mechanics show them using brushes and buckets
of hot soapy water.  I find it hard to believe but they just seem to slosh it
over the whole bike, dry it off and then re-oil as required.  Of course they do
renew handlebar tape every day, chains every week........

My velo has been on the car-roof in the VBO carpark all day with the rain lashing
down - I took the precaution of a Carrefour plastic bag on the faithful Brookes
but I'll keep you posted, it might just be an easy way of getting a clean-up..

    Raining in the South of France.  Gee I *am* sorry to hear that.  It's a
    lovely sunny day here...
    
    /rod

We sacrificed a couple of U*IX stations to the Sun God and I'm pleased to say
it's OK again this morning.  8 a.m. 10 deg C, blue sky with max forecast of
18 deg and fine for the weekend (at last!!).  The bike spent the day out in the
rain and looks fine, I think I shall patent this overhaul procedure.........

    
    
    	Ha! You're not the only one with the good weather! The sun is
    breaking through the mist and is on target to be the warmest day so far
    this year. Hell, it may even break freezing point....
    
    Graham. :*)
    
    

    RODE W/O TIGHTS YESTERDAY!!!!
    
    ed

    
    
    	Global warming, I luv ya!
    
    Graham :*)
    

    
    
    And I only wear my Blades because of the ozone hole.
    
    ---Alan

    at the moment we have a "chilling" due to the volcanic eruption in the
    Philipines.  At least that's one thoery.
    
    ed

There is also Bicycle Barn in Westboro.  They've been in business much
longer than Landry's.

Tim

Talking about tuneups.  I have breaks which squeak.  I tried replacing the
breaks a year ago but it still squeaks.  I figure I either have something on
the rims or the breaks I'm buying are not good.

Any ideas will be appreciated.  I'd definitely use the bike a lot more if it
wasn't so loud....

Thanks in advance!
/T

    
    Do you mean the brakepads squeak against the rims or that the
    brake mechanism (the levers, calipers, or cable) squeak?
    
    If the former (brakepads), this is a common enough problem.
    The common remedies you should try are:
    
      1. Clean the rims thoroughly - remove any oil, grime, or
         built-up rubber (from brake pads) from the rim.
    
      2. Toe-in the brake pads slightly.  (That would mean the front
         end of the pads would be closer to the rim than the back
         end of the pads.)  Generally check to make sure the pads
         are oriented correctly vis-�-vis the rims - i.e., not above
         or below the rims, and basically parallel to the rims (not
         angled up or down).
    
      3. Try another brand of brake-pads.
    
    Note: A bike shop can help with these measures, especially #2.
    You really have to play around sometimes to get rid of squealing.
    
    -john

Thanks John, #2 is probably my problem.  (Yes it's the pads squeaking)
I could try that.  I'm assuming from your description that toe in means
to have the front end be the first part of the pad to hit the rim.  I've
considered giving it to a shop but I'll give your suggestions a shot first!

Thanks again,
/T

    Cleaning the rims is a good idea.  For aluminum rims, use
    one of those green "Scotch-Brite" polishing pads.  It will take
    some of the anodizing off, but the brakes have probably
    done this already.

    It also helps to resurface the brake pads.  Take them off, and
    sand away the surface, especially if it looks glazed.

    Adjusting toe-in is probably the last thing to try.
    The reason is that the brake flexes under load, so that as
    the pads wear, they develop their own amount of toe-in.

    -Jeff Bell

    
    Over the pass two weeks I've been doing some tune up work on my girl-
    friends bike and have a couple questions on fine tuning the rear 
    deraliurer (sp?).  I had to replace the cables in both front and rear
    not to mention clean the dirt and grim that had gathered.  Well yesterday
    I put, everything back together and can't quite figure out how to adjust
    the cables and the back deraliurer properly.  The front one shifts 
    properly but the back one tends to make a skipping noise when you shift
    it like its not in the right gear??  Is this a problem with the
    adjustment on those two screws in the deraliurer that sem to adjust how
    far it moves or with the cable not being tight enough / to tight etc.??
    
    Thanks,  Dan

    If it worked fine before and the cable is firm, not tight you should be
    able to correct it with those screws.
    
         Chip
    
      

    
    Hmmm... I'm not so sure I know what the problem is.  Dan,
    you say it makes skipping noises when shifting.  
    
    - Do you mean, after you've shifted, or when the shift is underway?
    
    - In all gears, or just when settling into either the smallest or
      largest cog?  (If just in smallest & largest, *then* the high & low
      range-limiting screws would have some effect.  Otherwise not.)
    
    - Just to be sure... is this Indexed?  It sounds like a problem you'd
      have with maladjusted Indexed Shifting... but I detect your friend's
      bike may be older than that?
    
    -john

    
    John,
    
       It is making the skipping noise when its on the smallest cog and 
    I'm turning the cranks.  It is not index shifting.  
    
     Dan

    
    Dan, then it looks like Chip has it right: you should play with the
    screw that limits travel at that end of the cluster (the small gear
    end).  That's simple to try out.  If that doesn't work, we'll have
    to think of something else...
    
    cheers,
    -john

    
    Thanks John and Chip,   I'll give it a shot this weekend and let you
    know the results...
    
      Dan

    Unfasten the shifter cable and shift the rear derailleur by hand while
    turning the crank.  This will show if it is a limit adjustment problem.
    The limits can be adjusted if needed.  Then check the shifter cable
    freedom and clean and lube, or replace, if any binding or drag cannot be
    fixed.  Tight shifter cables can restrict derailleur travel in one
    direction so the limit screw is not the limit.

    
    Well the problem was fixed with just a turn or two of those limit screws
    on the rear derailleur.  I also had the shift handles to loose, not
    sure if this was part of the problem but, the bike ran like a top when
    I took it for a ride yesterday.... Even taping up the handle bars
    wasn't that bad.   Thanks agian for the help.
    
     Dan

    I'm having a different problem.  Because I have no time, I had my bike
    tuned up at a shop which I'll allow to remain nameless.  Now I appear
    to be overshifting (on the way up) on two of the five middle gears but
    on neither of the two outside gears.  I know what I should do is take
    it back and have the shop retune the derailleur.  Unfortunately, I
    don't have time for that either. (As you might guess I also haven't
    been riding much lately.)  
    
    I have indexed shifting.  Is this a problem with the adjustment on the
    indexing?  If so, is there an adjustment to the indexing on the
    shifter that I can perform easily?

     Sounds like it... It's also the easiest and most inexpensive thing to
    try yourself (before doing anything else). Just because it might seem
    fine in other gears doesn't mean that adjusting into the gears that
    are giving you a problem isn't required - nor will an adjustment hurt
    the other gears (if that's all it is).
    
     If you have barrels at the shifter, try those. Just keep track of how
    many rotations you're doing while "settling" into a gear. Go both ways
    if necessary. They should be another barrel at the derailleur as well.
    You might try this one - same process. If this doesn't work it's
    something else... I'd let the shop know anyway.
    
      Chip

    This note is a few year out of date so.....
    
    I'm about to take my bike for a tune up.  The place quoted me two
    prices.  The normal basic turn up is $44 and the complete overhaul is
    $99 (regular price - $130).  
    
    I need the overhaul done...is this a good price?  Can anyone suggest
    bike shops that they trust and prices for an overhaul?
    
    Thanks!
    Linda  

Hi Linda,

What do you feel you need done to the bike?  What type of bike is it and how
old is it?  A price of $99 sounds very high to me.  I hope they repack all
of your bearings, remove and clean the derailleurs, install new cables, and
change the winter air to summer air in the tires :-) for that price.  Chances
are, you don't need all of that stuff.  I know Naults in Nashua (used to be
Tony's) is running a coupon special of $19.99 (regular $39.99) for a tuneup.
My wife handed me the coupon so I don't know where she got it.

Jim

An overhaul is not a tuneup.  At Belmont Wheel Works, an "overhaul" means you
give them a complete bike.  They turn it into a frame, fork and a pile of
components.  Components go through the degreaser bath, frame gets washed and
waxed.  Everything gets reassembled, packed, lubed, greased.  New parts are
extra.  Cost is around $125, but they were running a special for about $95.  I
think it ended in mid-February.  I have never had anything but excellent service
there.  "DELNI" I think implies LKG.  Belmont may or may not be feasible.  I
have had good luck with Pedal Power as well (Great Road in Acton.) 
Tony's/Nault's sponsored my club last year and I know the mechanics, but I never
had them work on the bike so I can't really speak to their ability.  They often
don't have anything of use to me in-stock.

In general, a tune-up will tighten, inspect, true and lube things.  Generally
does not include bearing changes, inspections, or re-packings (head set, wheels,
BB if non-cartridge).  Be sure to ask them exactly what they do for each price
and compare that with what another shop will do for their quoted price.

Consider also what kind of bike it is, how old it is, what kind of care it
receives, how many miles, etc.

A complete overhaul on my racing bike would be a waste of money, since I
maintain it weekly.  I spent a good part of the winter doing the wheel bearings
and replacing other parts do to breakage, wear, more money [;-)]

Good Luck!  Wheelworks is my shop of choice for everything.
Tim

p.s. I live and work in Nashua, and I still go to Belmont for my bike needs.

    Tim is correct. The price you quoted is in line with most bike shops
    for an overhaul. Just make sure that an overhaul is what you are
    getting for that price.
    
    Chip

    If you are local to Acton/Littleton, I suggest calling Peter White,
    666 Mass Ave, Acton 635-0969.  Basically a one man shop with years
    of experience.  I would bet that his overhaul would be more exacting
    than one done at a volume bike shop...and probably cheaper.
    
    steve

    hi Tim,
    
    The shop that I was talking about IS Belmont Wheelworks and I agree, I
    think that place is great for everything but I've never had them do
    work.  With that glowing recommendation, I think I'll give them a shot
    but I just called to confirm the price and the overhaul is back up to
    $130.  Darn!  Bike really needs work since I don't lift a finger to
    it all season long....
    
    I ride a Trek 2200.  I think its about 5 years old.
    
    Linda