Conference terri::cars_uk

Replacing the oil pump on a Ford x-flow engine shouldn't take you more than
30 minutes - including swarfega-cleaning your hands afterwards  8-) 8-)

Last one I did was on a 1600 x-flow ..... and it was SIMPLE.  basically just
3 bolts and a bit of spilt oil ...

    My MGB is guzzling the old oil.  As mentioned in the small questions
    note, I think the engine needs re-conditioning.
    
    Currently,  she's using nearly a gallon per week ( approx. 500 miles).
    
    At the moment I'm using pretty cheap oil #4.99 a gallon.
    
    My question is :-
    
    If I buy a more expensive/better quality iol, will it last me any
    longer? Or will I still use as much as I am already??
    
    Thanks,
    
    Kris.

    Try adding STP it may cut down the consumption a bit or maybe try
    a bit of REDEX first in case anything is sticking that
    shouldn't........
    Pete

       You really ought to find the cause of the problem. You're not
       going to fix it using different oil. Is it leaking, or burning?

       By the way, �4.99 a gallon isn't cheap! I pay �2.99 for mine in
       the local Hypermarket!

       Ian.

    With that sort of consumption, it doesnt matter what you put in it, it
    wont get appreciably better.  Over the years, I've tried most of the
    proprietary compounds that are supposed to cure leaks/stop burning -
    none of them work in severe cases.
    
    You've really got no option but to rebuild - but dont worry, its the
    sort of job that sounds worse than it is.  If you have a reasonalbe
    tool kit, access to a hire shop for the specialised bits and are
    scrupulously clean during the rebuild, its really not difficult - just
    follow the manual and ask in here if you get stuck.  Beware of the line
    in the Haynes manual that says "undo the two retaining bolts..." - it
    doesnt mention that one is inaccessible to all known tools and can only
    be loosened 1/32 of a turn at a time, and the other one is rounded off
    and rusted in.
    
    Good luck,
    
    
    John

    Reasons for first off trying REDEX is in B's that are well used
    the oil scraper rings can occaisionaly stick, REDEX has a better
    chance than most of freeing them without great damage to the bank
    manager. If oil leak I guess the question would not have bben raised
    here in the way it was. STP also recommended if as it helps keep
    the viscosity of the oil high at higher temeratures. A couple of
    cheap things you can do to start diagnosis. Look at the colour of
    the exhaust pipe. If nice and light or dark grey you are OK, if
    it is dark like black you either have an over fuel supply problem
    or you are burning oil, rub your finger in the deposits and you
    will soon feel and smell if it is oil. Secondly get a compression
    test and that should also tell you if you have problems etc.
    
    
    All this without jumping in to spend spend until really necessary......

    I could be wrong but I thought that a white exhaust meant your fuel
    mixture was too lean - which is worse for your engine than too rich.
    
    Ric

    True but light to medium grey OK if mixture really is too lean you
    will be able to tell by lack of performance, etc. The exhaust check
    is really looking for oil and is a good rule of thumb.
    
    Pete

    
    I was just wondering why garages and Service Station mechanics like to
    over-tighten the oil filter. Maybe they reckon the poor customer has to
    go back to them fo rthe next oil change. I have done oil changes for 2
    other colleagues and it was a real pain to undo the filter. During one
    instance, I had my right palm literally skinned!
    
    Mike

...makes it easy to remove oil filters, and saves your skin!

Scott

	I usually use brute strength and ignorance: I punch a screwdriver
	through the filter and start it turning and then use my hands.
	Note that you must be totally confident that you have the correct
	filter, otherwise you're stuck.  I usually use a marker pen to
	note the change mileage on the filter, otherwise I forget...

	Dave

    My advise would be to only use the screwdriver as a last resort.
    Apart from the mess, I've also found that the can of the filter
    can rip, leaving sharp edges everywhere.
    
    If you havn't got access to a strap-wrench, a trick that is used
    in boats on marine engines, where space is *really* tight, is to
    use a length of cord, wrapped around the filter, and used like a
    capstan.
    
    To try and explain :- get your length of cord/rope, and wrap it
    tightly round the filter *anti-clockwise*. Tie one end to something
    solid, e.g.engine mount, then you wrap the other end round a bar, and
    'sweat' the rope tight using the bar as a lever, usually on top of the
    engine.
    
    So...take the slack on the bar, lever up holding the free-end of
    the cord so that the rope around the oil-filter, and the bar, tightens.
    Next, as you relieve the pressure on the bar, take up the slack on the
    free end of the cord, so that you keep the rope tight. By continuing
    to tighten the cord, by this method of 'sweating', eventually the
    can of the filter should turn rather than the rope stretching.
    
    Hope that all makes sense, it does work, but doesn't sound as if
    it will from my description.
    
    
    Alternatively, take a large, flat, screwdriver....
    
    AMS

Re: .28
    
>    I was just wondering why garages and Service Station mechanics like to
>    over-tighten the oil filter. Maybe they reckon the poor customer has to

I would rather have difficulty in changing the filter than have it shake
loose and all the oil run out with the inevitable consequences.

jb

    OK, I'm bracing myself for some bad news here.
    
    My vehicle has the following symptoms.  Would anyone like to comment on
    the possibilities?
    
    
    The first I noticed was a nasty smell of oil burning and smoke coming
    from under the bonnet.  This was not constant but seemed to come and
    go during journeys.  I guessed somehow that oil was getting onto the 
    exhaust manifold.
                                                                   
    I then noticed a flicker of my oil warning light when taking a
    roundabout corner fairly fast.  Needless to say, I filled up with oil
    and it took a fair bit.
    
    So, I was getting foul smells and losing oil.  I then examined the rear
    of the car and found the hatch speckled in oily deposits.
    
    Then, on a short trip last week I noticed for the first time a plume of
    smoke behind me.  Again from time to time.  On the return trip
    yesterday the smoking was a lot worse.  But yet again it only seemed to
    happen at intervals.  Needless to say I crawled back home to Reading.
    
    Looking under the bonnet more closely, it looked as though the dip
    stick had been pushed out of it's snug fitting.  It looked like oil had
    been spraying out of there.
    
    Filling up with oil again, I noticed around the inside of the cap, 
    some off-white gunk.  Traces of water in the oil?
    
    So, to summerise...
    
    Nasty smell when driving
    Smoke from under the bonnet
    Dropping bits of oil after a trip
    Getting through a lot of oil on long trips up M'way say.
    Oily deposits on back hatch
    Intermittent blasts of smoke plus longer spells of continued smoking
    Off-white gunk inside filler cap
    Dip stick displaced from snug fitting
    Signs of oil blowing out of dip stick hole
    
    
    The car - Fiat Uno, 39000 miles.
    
    Cheers,
    
    Kris

    Kris,
    
    Sounds like the engine breather is blocked. If the breather is blocked
    any gasses that get by the piston rings will pressurise the crank case.
    This will force oil into the other bores on their induction/exhaust stroke,
    hence the oil on the hatch. The dip stick will also be blown out of its
    tube. ( I lost an expensive race engine this way). The white sludge in
    the engine is a emulsion of oil vapour and water this may be what is 
    blocking the breather and is usually caused by too many short journeys 
    not allowing the engine to reach normal temp and evaporating the water 
    vapour that collects as the engine cools down.
    
    
    
    Or it could be something totally different!!
    
    Simon.

    I have an E reg XR2,and for most of the time I've had it I get sort of
    coffee cream all up the dipstick.Anyone know what causes this,and what
    I could do to cure it?
    
    Tyrone
    

    Tyrone
    
    This would indicate condensation or water is mixing with the oil.
    
    CHeck your coolant level. Do you get white smoke from the exhaust ?
    If so this could mean the head gasket has gone.
    
    Royston

    Actually, the CVH Ford engines are very fussy about their oil. You are
    using 10/40 aren't you? Preferably Ford's own... It makes a difference.
    
    Laurie.

    Thanks for the replies.I always get a lot of what I would think is blue
    smoke from my exhaust when I start up from cold,but I understand it is
    common with fords.My car did come close to failing the emmision test on
    its last MOT,I'll dig out the report and see what it said.I do use Ford
    oil which to the best of my knowledge was the correct type.I have
    noticed the coolant level seems to be dropping,but it's difficult to
    say wether its alot,but after pointing it out I'll keep a better eye on
    it.I don't do very long journey's,I travel from Henley to Winnersh
    which isn't really enough to get the engine warm enough so I've been
    told?
    
    Tyrone
    

My Mini 1275GT has a habit of chucking out first blue smoke from the exhaust,
and then white smoke for about 30 seconds to a minute when started from cold.
It also does this to a lesser extent whenever I start it up.  I have recently
had both the head gasket and cylinder head replaced after similar symptoms
revealed that they were broken.  Obviously I would rather this didn't happen
again, so does anyone know what other "problem" could be causing this.

Mark

    I'll chuck in my twopennorth :-)
    
    My guess is that it could be worn valve guides and/or worn/broken
    piston rings, that is assuming it isn't a blocked breather or leaky
    head gasket as someone mentioned before.  Did  you say the engine had
    done a LOT of miles ?
    
    Steve.

    
    Blocked engine breather/oil seperator is a good reason for oil to be
    forced from the engine.  If a piston ring is bust, you might get the
    same result.  A good clean up seems in order.  
    
    Mini 1275:  I thought blue/white smoke and oil burning where a feature
    of Minis...  
    
    The head can warp if you let the engine overheat, and 1275 Mini engines
    can do so quite easily, especially if the wrong radiator has been
    fitted.  The 1000 Mini and 1275 mini radiators look the same but...
    
    Ian
    

So what's involved in cleaning up the engine then.

I've only had the car a month or so, and have never been very good with engines
anyway, so I don't have a clue really.  What sort of costs are invloved.

Add to that a jammed vacuum plate in the distributor, and the car is a bit slow
at the mo.

I have been reading the Alf Francis book (Moss' mechanic in the 50's - thanks 
Nigel!) and he talks about curing an oily plug problem by using vegetable oil 
in the engine.

They used alchohol based fuel and the petroleum based oil that leaked into the 
cylinders didn't burn off quickly enough and fouled the plug.  So they 
switched to vegetable oil and whatever oil leaked into the cylinder burned off 
nicely and didn't foul the plugs.

My question is - what type vegetable oil did they use?  Was there a vegetable 
based motor oil or was this cooking oil???

Dave

    I vaguely recall hearing something about Duckhams being a vegetable
    oil...
    
    Laurie.

    Bean oil?
    Castor oil? (Castrol?)
    
    Richard
    

    
    re: vegie oil,
      
         Castrol is probably the largest suppier of vegitable oil that
    comes to my mind. The most common is Castrol "R X0", the X being the
    grade 
       ie: R30 is primarily for low reving engines (mainly older engines)
    and    R40 is for higher reving engines.
    
      Having used R40 in a 2stroke motorcycle engine I'm slightly sceptical
    of it's ability to burn better than petrol/synthetic based lubricants.
    However it does smell sweeter and is widely used in 2stroke racing.
    
    
    Alan.
     

	I remember the time when that beautifull smell of Castrol R pervaded
most car racing scenes!

	Fellas, what ever you do, don't mix Castrol R with any other type of
oil!  It don't arf gum up de piston rings if you mix the oils!  You must clear
out ALL the old oil before refilling with Castrol R, just draining it off isn't
enough.  Three sets of Pistons and Rings I had to buy for my old Jaguar one and
a half litre (1946 vintage)!

				Malcolm.

    Malcolm, is that also true for suspension units? On the advice of an
    old racer, I'm about to replace the oil in the front shocks of my
    Frogeye with R40...
    
    Laurie.

    
    Laurie,
          Alittle check that you can do is remove a small amount of oil
    from the damper and put it into a sealable jar, add a more than equal
    amount of castrol "RX0" and seal the jar. store the jar high enough in
    the garage to prevent interest and look at it after 30 days have
    elapsed, if its still fluid then you will be alright, if not, imagine
    removing the solidified gunk that is in the jar from 4x suspension
    dampers......not nice..
    
    
    Alan.

    Laurie
    
    As an apprentice in the early ?0s I worked on racing motorbikes.  We
    used Castrol R but always drained and flushed after each practice and
    race session.  The problem was the deterioration under conditions of
    heat and time.
    
    It's a brilliant lubricant, but lacks the detergents and other
    ingredients to have a long life in use.
    
    I'd suggest a call to Castrol's technical department WRT your shocks.
    
    Nick 

    Good points there lads... any idea of the number?
    
    Laurie.

    This may seem a daft question,but I'd be interested in your thoughts.
    I have a Fiesta with a 1300 engine.I travel 20 miles to and from work
    each day,with occasional trips in the evenings and weekends etc,not
    usually more than 60 miles.
     I have had my car for just over a year,and I have not had to top up
    the oil once.Now I had a similar situation with my old XR2 but it did
    burn oil as it got older.My question is,do you think it is because of
    the size of the engine and the small amount of miles I do,or is it my
    style of driving that stops it from burning oil.
     The reason I ask is that I wonder if I should get a smaller engined
    car?
    
    Tyrone
    

    Apart from one cavalier which had a small leak that was never found,
    though the oil was visible around the engine, I have never had to add
    oil to a car in the last 10 years. Old cars will use oil as they wear
    seals and rings and things.
    
    Don't worry.
    
    Andrew

    I'm not worried,just curious to the relationship between engine size
    and the miles you use it for.
    
    Tyrone