T.R | Title | User | Personal Name | Date | Lines |
---|
177.1 | Tried it twice and liked it | BRUTWO::COUTURE | | Mon Jul 14 1986 11:07 | 16 |
| Tom...
I poured 2 sets of cement stairs last year and had
reasonable luck. Although they weren't as big as what your pouring.
Mine were 4' wide and 3 steps high. treads were 10"" (i think) and
a 7 1/2" rise. I dug a 4' footing and filled it with washed rock,
made the forms with 2x8's and braced them real good. Also I mixed
the concrete with a mixer. I also put in some steel fencing near
the upper portion of the stairs. As far as your application goes
I would think that as long as you had enough concrete around the
old staris you should be ok. (assuming that the footing is solid)
And as long as the forms are braced correctly you should be able
to complete it in one pour.
Steve
|
177.32 | Footings under stairs?? | MAXWEL::BROSNIHAN | BRIAN | Mon Oct 20 1986 12:28 | 14 |
| ----------- I am thinking about building
|___ new stairs next weekend.
porch--> | |___ there are five stairs that
| |___ are there now. I will replace
| |___ them with wood. Right now
| | there are patio blocks
------------- under the bottom steps.
| | Should I pour footings this
| |< footing? time? Are there any other
- helpful hints to doing this?
I plan on buing the already
cut stringers.
Thnx in advance.........../BB
|
177.33 | probably overkill | EXODUS::SEGER | this space intentionally left blank | Tue Oct 21 1986 09:57 | 18 |
| There are at least 2 major reasons why you want footings, namely to keep
the wood off the ground (damp=rot) and to prevent heaving when the
ground freezes and thaws.
Setting the steps on cinder blocks will certainly solve the first
problem. As to the heaving, how critical are the stairs? Are they part
of the main enterance in which case appearance might be very importaint?
In my house there are 2 sets of steps in the back set in cinder blocks.
They have shown very little damage from heaves and when I replace them
(someday), I probably won't bother with footings either.
As I write this, a thought just occured. Steps do not take up a large
surface area. Therefore, the amount of effect cause by freezing/thawing
is probably minimal. At least it explains why my steps have help up.
-mark
|
177.47 | Help - slippery stairs | BARNUM::BROUILLET | Don Brouillet @ MRO | Thu Nov 06 1986 08:54 | 4 |
| Is there some kind of non-skid coating that can be applied to exterior
(wooden) stair treads? For some reason, they seem a lot more slippery
in a cold rain, and will get worse when cold rains turn to freezing
rains.
|
177.48 | Idea | FSTVAX::HARDEN | | Thu Nov 06 1986 09:30 | 6 |
| How about this.
If the stairs are painted, repaint them and while the paint is wet
sprinkle some fine sand on them.
-boB
|
177.49 | Anti-Skid Grit | POP::SUNG | Al Sung (Xway Development) | Thu Nov 06 1986 10:28 | 11 |
| There is a specific anti-skid material that I used to use on boat
decks. You can buy this stuff at a boat supply store (probably
BLISS marine). It probably isn't more than glorified silica (or
sand), but it holds up much better than sand.
The way it is applied is to paint the surface and while it is still
wet or tacky, use something like a salt shaker filled with this
anti-skid material and shake it onto the paint. After it dries,
go over the surface again with another coat of paint.
-al
|
177.50 | most all paint stores have it! | DRUID::CHACE | | Thu Nov 06 1986 10:34 | 5 |
| That anti-skid grit can be added to normal floor paint. It is
available in small bags from most normal paint stores. All you do
is pour it in and mix it up then paint away!
Kenny
|
177.51 | What we've done | CSCMA::JOHNSON | CSC/MA Advanced Technology Systems Support | Fri Nov 07 1986 08:52 | 4 |
| We've been mixing sandbox sand (no salt) with Spag's utility paint
(greyish, a mixture of what's left in the bottoms of somebody's
vats) and painting stairs at apartments for years. It's cheap and
really stands up.
|
177.52 | don't "tread" on me | FSTVAX::FOSTER | Frank Foster -- Cincinnati Kid | Fri Nov 07 1986 14:44 | 6 |
| Another thing you can do is buy no-skid treads -- they are sort of like
long narrow peices of sandpaper with adhesive on the back. It
may be easier to get them down quick than find a decent day for painting
in the near future.
Frank
|
177.53 | Source? | BARNUM::BROUILLET | Don Brouillet @ MRO | Mon Nov 10 1986 10:24 | 7 |
| RE: .5
That's really more like what I had in mind. Where do you find these
glue-down no-skid treads? (and, before everybody shouts SPAG'S,
where in SPAG'S?).
-db
|
177.54 | SPAGS 101 | BINKLY::WINSTON | Jeff Winston (Hudson, MA) | Mon Nov 10 1986 17:06 | 6 |
| SPAGS IS on Route 9 in Shrewsbury. Most straight forward way is
495 to rt 9 west (though you can get there from I 290 - get off at
lincoln street, go SE (left if coming from E), make right at light,
and you will come to rt 9 at the corner of Spags)
See ZEPPO:: CONSUMER for 'what not to buy (And what to buy) @ spags
|
177.55 | Need a graduate course - finding unusual items | BARNUM::BROUILLET | Don Brouillet @ MRO | Tue Nov 11 1986 11:41 | 11 |
| RE: .7
Thanks, but I've been there 10^6 times, and can easily find the
building. My question was, where INSIDE Spag's would I find these
things, if they have them?
It's enough of a problem to find clearly categorized items in Spags.
I can't imagine where to look for stick-on stair tread anti-slip
devices, or whatever they're called (assuming Spags has them).
-db
|
177.56 | | AUTHOR::WELLCOME | Steve | Tue Nov 11 1986 13:18 | 8 |
| If all else fails, try the fishing tackle counter. :-)
Seriously, I've never seen the stuff there but that is no guaranatee
they don't carry it. I've generally found the staff to be pretty
helpful - best way to find out is probably to go and ask. Or maybe
another Spag's zealot will know.
Steve
|
177.57 | Try an industrial supplier | CSCMA::JOHNSON | CSC/MA Advanced Technology Systems Support | Wed Nov 12 1986 07:03 | 14 |
| If you go to any good industrial supplier you'll find what you need
in several widths.
I think they're listed in the yellow pages under "industrial supplies"
or such.
As a side note, these places are usually row upon row of steel shelves
filled with stuff and salesmen come in to check or add stock and
often leave "free sample" boxes of stuff like glue, lubricants,
tap oil, etc. The free samples I have picked up have been plenty
to provide me with what I need when I need it (which isn't very
often for products like these).
Pete
|
177.58 | skid-no-skid | FSTVAX::FOSTER | Frank Foster -- Cincinnati Kid | Wed Nov 12 1986 17:41 | 7 |
| RE .6 .5
Sorry, I don't know where to buy them; I've never actually bought them
(though I need to, so let me know if you find them anywhere). I just
know they exists cuz I've seen them installed places.
Frank
|
177.59 | Guess Where???? | USMRM2::CBUSKY | | Thu Nov 13 1986 13:05 | 5 |
| I saw the stick-on anti-skid things at Spag's today. There are
in the plumbing department to the left of the door leading into
the back room.
Charly
|
177.60 | Replace outside flight of stairs | VINO::WEINER | Sam | Fri Apr 03 1987 14:56 | 20 |
| I have an offer on a house that needs some work as a result of some
problems found during the inspection (by Hallmark, good job).
The sellers have offered to replace the back outside stairs which
are rotting as opposed to my lowering the price. This is fine with
me but I want to make sure that a good job is done, not just something
which is cosmetically pleasing.
We are talking about a full flight of wood stairs since the land
slopes such that the basement is at ground level in back. Also,
the back of the stairs are enclosed to form a storage area under
the porch.
What materials, techniques, etc. should I specify or check for to make
sure that the stairs last for more than a year or two? The location
is Worcester so there will be lots of snow and probably several freeze
and thaw cycles each winter.
Thanks, Sam
|
177.2 | need front steps | ZEN::WINSTON | Jeff Winston (Hudson, MA) | Sun May 10 1987 16:27 | 14 |
| Similiar Question:
The house I'm fixing up has a rather ugly and rotting front deck of
untreated wood. I intend to tear the deck down. After I'm done, I
will need some way to connect the walk to the front door, which is
about 3' above the ground. Stone steps would be nice, but I assume
they're quite a project. (any comments from experience?) I'm looking
for suggestions, both for a permanent solution, and for a temporary
one (assuming I can't tear down the deck and put up the stairs in the
same day).
thanks muchly
|
177.3 | I've done it | FROST::SIMON | Blown away in the country...Vermont | Tue May 12 1987 14:14 | 22 |
|
I built a of stone front steps for my house two summers ago.
It wasn't really that hard a job. I did have a little masonry
experience, but not a lot. There are lots of books that tell
you the basics.
What I did was first dig a four foot deep hole so that I could
put in a footing for the steps below the frost line. Next I
formed a frost wall and top slab and had the ready mix truck
come with a couple yards of concrete. Then with a careful selection
of stones and mortar it took me about two days to put in the stones.
The stone work was about 6-8 hours of work, the digging was about
the same since I was digging hardpan.
The stairs were really just two steps including a landing. They
came out quite nicely actually. The nice thing is you don't have
to worry about them rotting out.
-gary
|
177.61 | ideas for front steps | MORMPS::WINSTON | Jeff Winston (Hudson, MA) | Wed Jul 22 1987 13:25 | 12 |
| Ok, fixer-uppers - I need some creative advice:
The front door of my house is about 4' from the ground. Currently,
there is a large, untreated-wood, ugly, rotting deck with some stairs
for the egress. This is coming down. I am looking for ideas to
replace it. Prefab concrete steps with railings seem to be about
$800 and are alsoe somewhat unattractive. Wood steps would be good,
but I'm not enough of a carpenter to build them from scratch, and with
carpenter labor - this may also run into $ (but it would be
aesthetically pleasing).
Any ideas? thanx /j
|
177.62 | One of these days I'll fix MY stairs... | KELVIN::RPALMER | Half a bubble off plumb | Wed Jul 22 1987 13:39 | 10 |
| Jeff,
You can buy precut stair stringers at Grossmans or Summerville.
Or, take down the old steps carefully and use them as templets to construct
the new steps.
Keep in mind that messing with the steps gets the inspectors
interested and may have an effect on your occupancy permit.
=Ralph=
|
177.63 | How 'bout a plank for a ramp | USMRM2::CBUSKY | | Wed Jul 22 1987 13:45 | 9 |
| You have already mentioned three common alternatives and ruled them
all out! 1. Concrete pre-fab steps, 2. Rebuild the wooden deck and
steps yourself, 3. Hire someone to rebuild the wooden deck and steps.
If the thought of cutting the stair stringers is what's stopping
you, you can buy these pre-cut at most lumber stores. They are
expensive, but convient if you don't want to DIY.
Charly
|
177.64 | | AUTHOR::WELLCOME | Steve | Wed Jul 22 1987 14:49 | 12 |
| When I fixed my porch last year I discovered two giant granite slabs
underneath that had been steps until somebody about 50 years ago
decided to extend the porch and thought it was too much work to
move the rocks. I did move them out and used them for the steps
again. I don't know where you'd go about buying 8"x3'x6' slabs
of granite, but if it turned out to be less than $800 it might be
worth thinking about. They will last longer than either wood or
concrete.
Surprisingly, they wern't too bad to move. I pulled them out with
a chain and my truck, and put them back with the help of a friend
and nothing more than a couple of big crowbars and a vast assortment
of planks and blocks.
|
177.65 | Possible source for slabs | DSSDEV::AMBER | | Thu Jul 23 1987 10:18 | 5 |
| If anyone is looking, the Baretto Brothers quarry in Milford NH has
(or at least had) slabs suitable for steps. I think the price was
$60 for 6" x 2' x 5'.
|
177.4 | PREFAB CONCRETE STEPS??? | ZEN::WINSTON | Jeff Winston (Hudson, MA) | Thu Aug 20 1987 00:54 | 13 |
| Has anyone has experience with having PREFAB CONCRETE STEPS delivered
to their front door? I shopped around, and a place called Wachusett
Precast has offered to deliver a 5' wide 5-step unit with 42"
platform, with 2 iron railings, for about $500. Says after a year you
can even use rock salt on it - though i shouldn't need it cause its
built to have water runoff to the side.
anyone have experience or comments to share?
(i'm doing this to replace the old rotted untreated, infested, wood
deck left by the last owner)
|
177.5 | Yea vote | EPOCH::JOHNSON | Whoever dies with the most toys, wins. | Tue Aug 25 1987 09:02 | 6 |
| We replaced several rotting step sets at an income property with
these from the same company and have no complaints after several
years of use. As a rule, we don't salt them, though (and never
had to).
Pete
|
177.6 | It's yours, take it! | WELFAR::PGRANSEWICZ | | Tue Aug 25 1987 12:14 | 6 |
| RE: .4
Geez, and I've got similar stairs I'm dieing to get rid of!
Unfortunately, you would need a fourty foot crane to lift the sucker.
Seems like us DIY'ers are paying an arm and a leg for either buying
something or getting rid of it!!
|
177.7 | | HOBBIT::RIDGE | | Fri Aug 28 1987 14:02 | 3 |
| I've had these steps for 9 years and no problems. We try not to
use salt.
|
177.8 | | MORMPS::WINSTON | Jeff Winston (Hudson, MA) | Thu Oct 08 1987 19:24 | 10 |
| Just thought I'd let you all know how it came out:
Tore the deck down Labor day. Steps were delivered 2 days later - but
they didn't realize til that morning that there were no rails in
stock. Rails were delivered today. Final product looks great. The
workmanship and detail work of the steps is much better than I've seen
in standard, builder-installed steps. Wachusett Precast in Sterling
did a good job, and were reasonable. I would recommend them with the
single warning that they promise long notice before coming out, but
actually give you only 1-2 days.
|
177.140 | Source for outside railing/ballisters needed | BPOV09::KALINOSKY | yeah | Tue Jan 05 1988 11:04 | 10 |
| I have on old colonial with a wrap-around porch, which has no railing.
I would like to put one on, but only the fancy "old-style" type
railing with ballisters, which would fit the period of the house.
Can anyone name or recommend a local (Central Mass/Southern NH)
or mail-order suppier, who carries this type of wood railing sets?
Thanks,
Ian
|
177.141 | | AUTHOR::WELLCOME | Steve Wellcome (Maynard) | Wed Jan 06 1988 12:42 | 7 |
| Try checking at some lumberyards. I was at Coldwell's in Berlin,
Mass. a while ago and picked up a brochure for some outfit that
is distributing plastic-moulded filigrie stuff that is copies of
old designs. A competent lumberyard (Coldwell's in Berlin, Larkin
in Hudson, Concord Lumber in Concord, etc.) can order all kinds of
oddball things from their suppliers; you just have to ask.
You may find such things to be fairly pricy, however....
|
177.142 | Channel | SALEM::MOCCIA | | Wed Jan 06 1988 12:57 | 5 |
| I've found railings, banisters, newel posts, and such at Channel.
There are about eight or ten stores in the Boston metro area.
pbm
|
177.143 | Fairview and Architectural Millworks | PSTJTT::TABER | Transfixed in Reality's headlights | Wed Jan 06 1988 13:19 | 18 |
| RE: moulded trim
Fairveiw Millworks in Amhearst (sp?) NH carries the Fylon brand of
moulded trim. They're out on 101A, you might stop by and see if you
can cadge a catalog from them. I've recently ordered some Victorian
crown & dentil cornice from them, and the price ($53/16' length)
certainly beats milled wood (~$80/16'.) I won't know how it compares
structurally until it arrives, but it's reputed to be good.
They have some pretty stuff in the lines of cornice, brackets, vents and
so on. More Victorian stuff, of course, but there were some Colonial
newels and stuff like that. I think I saw railings in the catalog, but
I'm not sure.
If you want something in milled wood, then give Architectural Millworks
in Pepperell MA a call. My neighbor uses them and likes them a lot.
>>>==>PStJTT
|
177.144 | Concord Lumber | SYSENG::MORGAN | | Wed Jan 06 1988 13:20 | 5 |
| Just saw what you're looking for at Concord Lumber about 2 months
ago. I don't know what they keep in stock but you can give them
a try.
Steve
|
177.145 | | TOOK::CAHILL | Jim Cahill | Wed Jan 06 1988 15:08 | 8 |
|
Speaking of Concord Lumber, their new yard in Littleton should be
opening soon. Unfortunately, it's almost directly across the street
from LKG. In fact, I can see it from my office!
Sigh......
(:>
|
177.146 | | 3D::BOOTH | Stephen Booth | Thu Jan 07 1988 07:39 | 10 |
|
I looked at one time for the old spindles to put on my porch
and had no luck in the normal places. I looked in the yellow pages
under wood-millwork...(I'm not sure) but there are many places in
Mass that make them. When I called he said about $12 to $15 per
piece !!!!!!!
-Steve-
|
177.87 | Moving Granite Slabs | SAGE::DERAMO | | Mon Jun 20 1988 14:16 | 35 |
| Last year, a neighbor gave me 4 granite steps that he removed
from his bulkhead. I plan to use them for my back entry steps. The
steps measure approximately 1 foot square by 4 feet long. They're
very heavy -- probably close to 400 pounds each. Right now, they're
75 feet from my back entry.
I'd like to devise a creative way for moving the stones to where
I want them. Since I only have one friend that willingly does this
kind of manual labor, the method has to be manageable by just two
people.
I've thought of, and attempted, the Egyptian pyramid method (with the
stone on rollers, slaves pulling). This was pretty difficult because
of the uneven ground, and slight incline. I need more people, or a way
to make this easier to do.
Another idea I considered was renting a U-Haul appliance dolly, strapping
the stone to it, and trying to pull it that way. I don't have a
lot of faith in this because, *if* we could lift the dolly to a semi-
upright position, the wheels would probably sink into the ground,
making it difficult to roll.
My latest idea was to buy a 12 foot 2"x10," roll a stone on to one end
of it, lift up the opposite end (which should be easy with all that
leverage) and drag it. Admittedly, this would be easier in the winter
time when I'd be dragging across snow, but I can't wait until then.
Any comments on these ideas? Any other advice?
Joe
|
177.88 | | GORDON::GORDON | | Mon Jun 20 1988 14:31 | 23 |
| look into how it was done manually 100+ years ago. for that distance,
some form of a sled would fit the bill. I would take a couple of
2x4 or 2x6, cut one end at 45 and put them parallel under a platform
(plywood) upon which the stone would rest. pulling that weight
shouln't be very hard if you take you time.
*----------*
| 400# |
| |
I *----------* I
==================
--------------------------/
|________________________/
I would suggest some form of low side rails around the platform
to keep the stone from sliding off. Pull with a strong rope tied
low on the sled near the front. Use a come-a-long if the going
gets really tough.
Bill G.
|
177.89 | or something to this effect... | VAXWRK::BSMITH | Carnival Personnel Only...DAMN! | Mon Jun 20 1988 14:38 | 4 |
| Tie'm to the bumper of your car and drag them as close to the entry
as possible, then bar them into place.
Brad.
|
177.90 | Money can move anything | PSTJTT::TABER | Touch-sensitive software engineering | Mon Jun 20 1988 14:38 | 11 |
| Is using money to move them considered cheating? For example, hiring a
couple of riggers from some local stone yard? It won't be cheap, but
the job will get done, and nobody will get hurt.
Or try talking your local service station into using their tow truck to
sling load them in to a pickup or trailer (and sling them off again...)?
Maybe get the smallest U-Haul truck with a hydraulic gate?
Small fork lift?
>>>==>PStJTT
|
177.91 | Plywood + Block and Tackle | CURIE::BBARRY | | Mon Jun 20 1988 15:10 | 9 |
| .1 has the right idea, but I would skip the treads if you are
dragging it across grass. Just roll the slabs onto a sheet of
3/4" plywood. Drill two holes in the other end about 6" from
the end and 6" from the sides. Now you could drag this all around
your backyard with a pickup. Or you will need a block and tackle
with 300 ft of rope(4 to 1 advantage should be enough). If your
insurance is payed up try two blocks at a time.
Brian
|
177.92 | | FILMOR::THOMS | | Mon Jun 20 1988 15:14 | 2 |
| Rent a bobcat for a day and move them without ripping your car bumper
off or throwing your back out!
|
177.93 | Good vibrations? | INK::BURNS | | Mon Jun 20 1988 15:30 | 5 |
| Joe, I've heard that if you remove the muffler from a '86 Camaro
and rev the engine, the noise will levitate dense objects, making
them easy to move.
Bob
|
177.94 | log on! | CLYPSO::BELLEW | | Mon Jun 20 1988 15:35 | 12 |
|
Two weeks ago I moved four 8 x 11 12' railroad ties about the
same distance. Two small (but nicely shaped) pieces of cord wood
did the trick. Each was about 10" in diameter. I used a lever
to raise one end of the mass and slipped one of the logs under.
I could then roll the tie on the log until the log was at the
near end - so I used my weight to "teeter-toter" the timber and
a helper placed the next log at the far end. (PS. took about an
hour to move them, but saved my lawn from tire tracks or sled
damage)
db
|
177.95 | The plywood did the trick ! | GWYNED::MCCABE | | Mon Jun 20 1988 16:51 | 6 |
| 2405.4 has the right idea, I moved several boulders in exactly this
manner, the 4x8 sheet of 3/4" plywood distributed the load enough
that there was no damage to the lawn. Use a come-along or winch
and save your back. I nailed a 2x4 to the end closest to the ground
to prevent the rock from sliding off. You may want to drill a couple
of hand holes, or holes to loop a rope handle through, in the plywood.
|
177.96 | I vote for wheels | FANTUM::BERRY | On my way to Heaven, guaranteed | Tue Jun 21 1988 10:14 | 7 |
| First, I'd ask my neighbor how he pulled these out of the ground
and see what ideas come out of that.
My vote is for the two wheel hand truck. Just lay down a couple
boards to run it on. The U-HAUL ones are pretty rugged, should be
able to take the abuse.
John
|
177.97 | | MTWAIN::WELLCOME | Steve Wellcome (Maynard) | Tue Jun 21 1988 12:24 | 10 |
| General guideline: don't try to rush it. I think nowadays we tend
to have a mindset that demands instant results, and if something
takes a while, thinks that there is a real problem. A friend and
I moved two very large stone slabs (6" x 3' x 6' into position as
my porch steps, using only a couple of crowbars and a good assortment
of wood blocks and planks and some 2" pipe as rollers. It took us
an afternoon, going slowly and carefully so nobody got squashed.
You ought to be able to drag the stones on a sheet of plywood or
a more elaborage sled with little trouble, and it won't mark up
the ground at all. Low-tech is fine.
|
177.98 | Bobcat$$$ | CURIE::BBARRY | | Tue Jun 21 1988 12:54 | 16 |
|
< Rent a bobcat for a day and move them without ripping your car bumper
< off or throwing your back out!
Big bucks for a Bobcat, but you could probably do it in very little
time. If you know exactly where and how you want to set the block,
and it is ready, then rent the bobcat and do it all in one day. If
you are not ready to set the blocks, wait until you are to rent the
Bobcat.
Related question: I am ready to move a wood shed that is on
a sled. It weighs about 400 lbs(estimate). Does anyone have a
block and tackle or a come-along I could borrow?
Thanx, Brian
|
177.99 | Similar story | STAR::BECK | Paul Beck | DECnet-VAX | Tue Jun 21 1988 13:04 | 17 |
| I moved a piece of bluestone which must have weighed in at 400
pounds a few years ago with one other person (the mason). It
measures about 18"x4"x6' and showed up in the back of his pickup.
(The top has a well carved out of it; it's the basin for an indoor
fountain in our conservatory.) We stared at it for about 15 minutes,
but it didn't move. So we convinced it to slide out of the truck (it
was sitting in sand) crosswise on the top of his mondo wheelbarrow,
then rolled it around to the slider we were going to bring it
through. From there I got my hand truck and took off the handle,
leaving the wheeled bed. We tipped it off the wheelbarrow until one
end was on the hand truck bed, then eased the other side onto some
kind of support, and kind of walked it into the room. We finally
used some 2x4s to ramp it up in place.
Another four or five people would have made it a lot easier. Why not
start up the grill and invite some (big) friends over for hot dogs
and hernias?
|
177.100 | Fence posts as rough ground rollers, better than pipes. | MENTOR::REG | I fixed the boat; So, who want to ski ? | Tue Jun 21 1988 17:31 | 9 |
| re .0 Well, if they're ONLY 400 lbs you should be all set.
Just lift up one end and shove a piece of broken fence post or fence
rail underneath it, lift up the other end and do the same. Have
a third length of post or rail waiting to slip under the front before
it gets front heavy. If they're much more than 800 lbs it might
take 3 people to get the first roller under.
Reg
|
177.101 | | NETMAN::SEGER | this space intentionally left blank | Tue Jun 21 1988 21:01 | 14 |
| Apparently .-1 didn't read where you DIDN'T want the Egyptian method because
you lawn is uneven. Hoever, I believe it is very doable that way. I once
hauled a 16' 6X10 green oak beam a couple of hundred feet uphill on rollers.
The simple trick is a couple of planks (as in 2X10's) that you can use for a
base for the rollers.
This is a piece of cake.
-mark
btw - there have now been a BUNCH of suggestions by a lot of us who all KNOW
we're right and everyone else is wrong. 8-)
let us know how YOU finally do it.
|
177.102 | Halfway there! | SAGE::DERAMO | | Wed Jun 22 1988 10:17 | 29 |
| My neighbor and I moved two of the four slabs the other night.
Working from a number of ideas gained from this note, I made a plywood
sled from a 3/4" sheet, nailed a 2x4 along one of the short sides (as a
stop for sliding slab), and drilled two holes near the other end for a
rope. I rolled a slab on top of it so that it was centered and against
the 2x4 stop. I then tried to pull it, thinking it might slide across
the leaf-covered ground. It didn't budge.
My neighbor saw me playing with this, and came over to watch --
and then decided to help. I had some 1 1/2 to 2' pieces of (round)
cedar fencepost that we put under the sled. With a little grunting
and sweating, we got the thing to roll! After 20 feet or so, we
developed a good system for moving the trailing rollers to the front,
and continuing on. The incline was a little difficult, but no great
obstacle.
We moved another one, and my neighbor said that he would help another
night with the other two.
It's a great feeling to look out my back door and see the slabs
that will eventually become my stairs. Getting them into place will
be the easy part.
Thanks for all the help!
Joe
|
177.103 | Pleased to hear its "working out" (pun) | MENTOR::REG | I fixed the boat; So, who want to ski ? | Thu Jun 23 1988 12:02 | 8 |
| re .14 I did note that he had said he was avoiding the rollers
due to uneven ground. I was making the point that larger diameter
rollers, i.e. fence posts vs pipes, might make the method feasible.
Also the 400lb estimate brings them into the "one person can lift
one end up" category.
Reg
|
177.35 | How to make the *cuts* | ERLANG::BLACK | | Mon Oct 03 1988 12:19 | 21 |
| I'm making stairs to go between two decks. They will have a rise
of about 6" and a tread of about 15" -- the rule for outdoor steps
says R + 2T = 27. (I'll calculate the exact dimensions after the
upper deck is in place.)
I've read the stuff about the framing square, and have even bought
a pair of the little brass nuts. My question is: once it is all
marked out, how do I cut the stringers? My stairs will be over
4ft wide, so I'm figuring on four stringers. There will be only
thress steps on each, but presumably they have to be cut pretty
accurately if the steps are going to sit right.
Sure, I can use a handsaw -- but I'm concerned about getting the steps
exactly flat and even. Maybe I could take a bevel cut on the radial
arm saw to start off each cut, but a 10" saw will only get me a couple
of inches in at the angles I'm using. Is there a trick to this, or do
I just use a handsaw, care and patience?
Andrew
|
177.36 | TOH did it this way | CSSE32::NICHOLS | HERB | Mon Oct 03 1988 12:54 | 8 |
| A recent episode of This Old House showed Norm doing exactly what
you want done. He started the cut with a hand-help power circular saw
and finished the cut with a hand saw.
He held the hand-saw "upside down" to finish off the cut. I didn't
understand why at the time but am now guessing it was
1) to avoid walking around to the other side of the board
2) complemented the kerf made by the circular saw
|
177.37 | Use a circular & jig saw, don't forget decking thickness | PALMER::PALMER | half a bubble off plumb | Mon Oct 03 1988 13:09 | 26 |
|
I used my old handy circular saw to make the majority of the
cut. I stopped the cut at the point where the top of the blade
was at the corner. I then finished up with a jig saw. I suppose
you could use a jig saw for the whole cut, but the circular/jig
combination was faster.
A couple of additional suggestions: First use 2x12's for the
stringers. 2x10's are OK but you get more wood in the critical
area with a 2x12. The additional cost is not that big. Second
I'd definitely use the 'measure twice, cut once' method here. I
first made my measurements on an old piece of plywood. I cut the
plywood, checked to see that it indeed was the right size, then
used the plywood as a template for the other stringers. Remember
to figure in the thickness of the decking on your rise calculation
and the thickness of the kick plate in your tread number. The first
and last steps are the once two pay the most attention to. If you
are using a 6" rise the first step will be 6-5/4 decking = 4.75"
high. The second will be 6" high and the hight of the top depends
on how you attach the stairs to the deck.
I'd double check the figures that you are using for the stair
tread/rise. The source I used had three formulas that I'm afraid
to quote without checking.
=Ralph=
|
177.38 | "Upside down?" | ERLANG::BLACK | | Mon Oct 03 1988 18:35 | 47 |
| Re: .10: Could you please explain this a little more?
>> He held the hand-saw "upside down" to finish off the cut. I didn't
>> understand why at the time but am now guessing it was
>> 1) to avoid walking around to the other side of the board
>> 2) complemented the kerf made by the circular saw
What do you mean by "upside down". And what do you mean by
"complemented the kerf"
Re: .11: I already have my 2x12s. The idea of making a plywood
pattern first seems good. 5/4" decking is of course 1" net, but
I agree, that is the tricky part.
How to fix the stringers to the band joist of the upper deck? That
is discussed in .1, but I didn't follow it.
>> The top the stair is typically hung by nailing a short piece of 1x2 to
>> the vertical plane at the top of the stringer and then nailing this to
>> the joist the stairs are hung from.
Does this mean to put blocks inside the corners that are formed by the
stringers and the joist? So, in the figure below, there would be
nails going up and to the right from the block on the right hand
stringer? I was wondering about using joist hangers fitted into a saw
kerf instead.
============================================joist at top of stairs
|| | block| ||
||___| |___||
|| ||
|| ||
|| ||
|| ||
stringer || || stringer
|| ||
|| ||
|| ||
|| ||
|| ||
~~~~~~ ~~~~~~
I figure that at the bottom I can just toe-nail the stringers to
the lower deck.
Andrew
|
177.39 | Cut vertically for precision | AKOV75::CRAMER | | Tue Oct 04 1988 10:23 | 42 |
|
When cutting stringers the easiest way is, as previously described,
with a circular saw and hand saw.
The steps are:
1) Cut ALL the steps with the circular saw so that the kerf for
the riser and the tread meet. Due to the curve of the saw blade
this will not cut all the way through.
2) Take a hand saw and finish the cuts. The saw should be held so
that the teeth cut vertically rather than on an angle. This is
easier to do (for such short distances and thin wood) by holding
the saw with the teeth pointing away from you. Make sure that
the kerf of the hand saw mathches the kerf of the circular saw
on the side of the step. ( Say what?? ) The kerf of the hand saw
is significantly narrower than the kerf of the circular saw.
Tread
--------------------------------+
<--+----- Hand saw kerf
--------|
Circular Saw ker | |
| | Riser
| |
--------------------- | <---- Hand Saw kerf
| |
Waste | |
| |
| |
| |
As far as accounting for the thickness of the treads and risers
it is only important for the bottom step. (The stringer should be
short by the thickness of a tread) Since all the risers are the
same thickness you need not make allowances when cutting the
stringers (What you lose in the back, you gain in the front
with the riser from the next step down)
Alan
|
177.40 | Aha! Light has dawned! | ERLANG::BLACK | | Tue Oct 04 1988 13:03 | 11 |
| Aha! Light has dawned!
If the stringers are laid horizonatlly across my sawhorses, I hod
the saw with the curring edge vertical, and pointing away from me.
I can stay on the same side of the stringer as I stood when using
the circular saw.
Thank you all for being so patient in explaining this. All I need to
do now is to get that 200 lb boulder out of the bottom of my 4ft
foundation hole, and I can start the job!
|
177.41 | the granite state | NSSG::FEINSMITH | | Tue Oct 04 1988 13:44 | 4 |
| RE: .14, I'll trade you the 200 lb boulder for the 28" x 36" block
of granite I hit digging footings last week.
Eric
|
177.42 | Use it as part of the footing | FREDW::MATTHES | | Tue Oct 04 1988 13:59 | 6 |
|
Suddenly light dawns. I had read that in another note somewhere
but I just realised - "Why not use that as part of the footing ??"
As you probably know by now - it ain't going anywhere. It also
is probably deep enough. In all probability, you couldn't ask for
a better footing.
|
177.43 | Buy 'em pre-cut | NRADM::BROUILLET | Don Brouillet, NRO5, 234-4696 | Tue Oct 04 1988 14:21 | 3 |
| If you're concerned about keeping the cutouts in all stringers
absolutely identical, you can buy pre-cut stringers. They should
match up exactly.
|
177.44 | Pre-cut ain't all they're cracked up to be | FREDW::MATTHES | | Tue Oct 04 1988 16:18 | 12 |
|
re .-1
Sorry, it may be where I saw them but if you want them done well
... well do them yourself and take your time. The pre - manufactured
ones I saw weren't all that straight. Sorry, but I don't remember
where it was. I was not that impressed.
The biggest problem with cutting stringers is that you don't want
to invest the time it takes to do it right - myself included. That's
the way I used to be. I've tried several shortcuts and none work
as well as taking your time hacking up a 2x12.
|
177.45 | Not hard, not long | AKOV75::CRAMER | | Wed Oct 05 1988 10:06 | 7 |
| re: .17 & .18
Ah com'on guys! We're not talking major time here. It shouldn't
take much more than 15 - 20 minutes to finish a ten step stringer,
including layout.
Alan
|
177.46 | a little drafting | OFFHK::SCANLAND | Insurance-Write your Legislator! | Wed Oct 05 1988 10:45 | 12 |
| Re: somewhere back
I rebuilt a 12-tread, three-stringer, outside stairway last year from
scratch (ie. the ground up - much simpler than the other way around)
I found that after calculating rise and run and carefully measuring
overall rise and run, the project was made much simpler up front by
drawing everything out to scale on engineering graph paper. This
allowed me to "see" how the whole thing would line up and to make any
minor adjustments before the saw ever met wood.
Chuck
|
177.138 | Cap weather-pitted cement steps with vinyl cement? | DELNI::MHARRIS | Mark Jay Harris, DSS & Integ'd Prd Mktg | Mon Apr 10 1989 18:04 | 10 |
| Does anyone have recommendations for using Vinyl Cement to 'cap'
the surface of a pre-cast cement steps unit? I use it for my front
door and this year (4 years old) it pitted and flaked the surface.
(Maybe the ice melt stuff?)
I thought about putting a 1" layer of Vinyl cement on it.
Will it work?
Mark
|
177.139 | Eroding Steps and Garage Floor | MEIS::WALKER | Derek Walker | Wed Aug 23 1989 13:39 | 11 |
| I have a problem similar to what was stated in .0 both on my
front steps and on the garage floor. The previous owner used
a gray paint or similar substance to finish the surfaces. Now
they're both pitted, and much of the paint has worn off. I'd
guess that salt, either applied to the steps or carried into
the garage on the car, has caused much of the damage.
Does anyone have ideas for smoothing these surfaces, and preventing
further salt damage?
- Derek
|
177.68 | Installing a Concrete Stair | FNATCL::QUEDOT::DVORAK | dtn 297-5386 | Sun Jun 10 1990 20:45 | 47 |
| I am in the final stages of installing a prefabricated concrete stair
and could use some advice.
I have estimated the weight of the stairs at 1100 lbs. The stairs have
4 treads with the top tread a 4' by 4' platform. For my application I
need to bury the stairs about 18", and I have dug the hole and placed
the stairs above it on 6" square timbers. What can I use to grip the
stairs so that I can remove the timbers and lower the stair into the
hole? I cannot damage the timbers by cutting. The inside of the
stairs is hollow, and the concrete is wire reinforced.
|
|exterior house wall
|
|
|
---------- |
| | |
----- | |
| | |
----- | |
| | |
----- | |
|_____________________| |
# # |
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx |
x |
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx|
|
x= ground level
#= 6"square timbers, (the length of the timbers goes in and out of the screen)
the ends of the timbers rest on the sides of the hole.
I do have lifting tripod and 1/2 ton chain hoist, but unless I drill
holes in the stairs to pass a chain through, or get some sort of giant
ice tongs to grip the side of the stair with I don't see how to get a
hold of them to lower them.
Any ideas?
|
177.69 | | DICKNS::WELLCOME | Steve Wellcome (Maynard) | Mon Jun 11 1990 11:21 | 24 |
| Why can't you just gradually dig away the dirt from the ends of
the timbers and let the whole thing sink gracefully (one hopes!)
downwards? You'd need to dig two trenches in the bottom of the
hole for the timbers to eventually go down into, and a longish hole
out one side so you could pull the timbers out when the stairs were
sitting on the bottom of the hole, but it seems reasonably
straightforward.
Of course, with the stairs sitting there you may not be able to
dig the two trenches in the bottom of the hole....
Another thought: I set a couple of rather large stone slabs as steps
with nothing more than a good assortment of blocks of wood, a
couple long pieces of pipe as prybars, a friend's help, and some patience.
Remember, Archimedes was right. Set the steps on four piles of
boards, one pile at each corner, then go around and with a lever and
fulcrum, pull one board at a time from each pile, and gradually
work your way down. Prudence dictates that you *never* put your
hand under anything, and go slowly, but this ought to work. You
need somebody to lean on the lever while you remove the blocks,
or vice/versa. You may be able to put the lever under the center
of the stairs on each side and take out both blocks on one side
at the same time. You'll probably need to dig out the hole a bit
on each side to give you room to work, but I assume you can do that.
Think primiative! After all, they built the pyramids that way.
|
177.70 | idea stolen from a murder mystery story | RAMBLR::MORONEY | How do you get this car out of second gear? | Mon Jun 11 1990 13:55 | 13 |
| How about:
1) Get several large chunks of ice.
2) Jack up steps with a jack or lever.
3) Place chunks of ice under steps, lower steps onto them.
4) Remove wood.
5) Wait.
-Mike
|
177.71 | use more timbers | THEJUG::WHITE | Willie White | Tue Jun 12 1990 13:06 | 6 |
| Why not put some additional timbers under the steps and attach the
hoist and tripod to them? Raise the steps enough to remove the 6x6
beams and then lower away. You could place blocks in the hole to set
the steps on so you could remove the timbers used to lower the unit.
-willie
|
177.66 | ?? on railing to concrete | SMURF::AMBER | | Wed Jan 02 1991 13:01 | 14 |
| Those precast concrete steps usually have a metal railing "built-in"
or at least a provision for one. A freind's wife didn't like the
metal rail and wanted a wooden one, so he cut off the old rail flush
with the steps and filled the hole. Building a wooden railing with
PT balisters and attaching almost everything seems straightforward
enough. I asked what he was going to do about what will be the
newel (sp?) post. How can you make the post rigid? Simply blasting
it to the 7 or 8 inch bottom rise would probably cause it to wobble
from side to side. Digging a deep hole and putting more post in the
ground than above would make it fairly rigid, but this is January in
New Hampshire and besides the walk is paved up to the steps. The
handrail will take care of front to back rocking. What would you do
to keep the post from wobbling side to side?
|
177.67 | Use concrete anchors | SALEM::PAGLIARULO_G | Reality is a cosmic hunch | Wed Jan 02 1991 14:06 | 17 |
| I'm not really familiar with precast steps but I would think that
drilling 2 holes into the first riser and then using anchors and
bolts through the newel post into the riser would make it pretty
solid. The holes in the newel can then bne plugged with wood.
X-section of step and newel
| |
---- | |
|| |
|======O|\
|| | ---- bolts screwed through newel into anchors in riser
|======O|/
|| |
---- |___|
|
177.9 | Phone number for Wachusett Precast? | BEAGLE::REZUCHA | Tom, Valbonne TSCG SNA PI Support | Fri Jan 18 1991 07:54 | 9 |
| The prefab steps by Wachusett Precast sound like just the thing for me.
Unfortunately I live in France and need to have my house in Maynard fixed.
I have an old (1986) phone book for Marlboro and Concord but Wachusett Precast
is not listed.
Would you please list their phone number?
Thanks for your help!
-Tom Rezucha
|
177.10 | | MEWVAX::AUGUSTINE | Purple power! | Fri Jan 18 1991 12:02 | 13 |
| Tom,
My 1989-1990 Concord/Marlborough phone book lists:
Wachusett Precast Inc
Residentail and Commercial, free estimates
508-756-0239 or 508-422-7544
72 Pratts Junction Road, Sterling MA
-- Liz
|
177.11 | Prep work needed for precast? | CHIEFF::MACNEAL | ruck `n' roll | Mon Feb 11 1991 16:30 | 2 |
| Do you need to do anything with the precast steps besides positioning
them in front of the door?
|
177.12 | A few things | WESTVW::LEE | 105 and counting | Mon Feb 11 1991 16:56 | 29 |
| A long time ago I used to help install them. The only thing we did was install
a footing out of 4" solids. They help to reduce the effect on the steps due
to weather (rain and winter mostly), and they
provide a base when/if in the future the steps have to be leveled again.
Dig a trench 5 inches deep and 8 inches wide where the risers of the precast
will rest. Dig a shallower ditch in the front. And, center the ditches and the
risers.
Place 4" solid concrete blocks into the trench. Make sure that they are pretty
much flat. And pack down the dirt as hard as possible. It is best if both sides
are as level as possible
Lift the precast steps with your handy-dandy hydrolic lift arm :^). Place
the steps onto the 4 inch solids. If you don't have the luxury of the lift, I'm
not sure the best way to manuever the steps.
Let the steps settle.
Level the steps. We would use slate chips, believe or not. Lift the steps with
a long bar and a fulcrum. Slide the chips underneath. Be careful of the fingers!
This step requires a helper.
Backfill the ditch.
If any side of steps will be resting on something solid, like a blacktop
walkway, then adjust the trench as needed (during design phase of course :^).
However, this situation makes leveling much more difficult.
|
177.13 | Step into doorway almost 10 inches | ASDG::SBILL | | Tue Feb 12 1991 12:30 | 11 |
|
I have a small problem with my front steps. They settled unevenly
and now the step into the front door is way too high. How should I go
about re-leveling my steps? I don't think they're precast, the house is
thirty years old. Also it's small (only two steps). I'm not sure but I
think I may even have to raise the whole thing a bit in order to get
that step into the door down to six inches or so. Anybody done this
before?
Steve
|
177.14 | | ARCHER::FULTZ | ED FULTZ | Thu Feb 14 1991 14:51 | 6 |
| Also, I need to level my granite front steps. How should I go about this?
Are these usually one piece of granite for each step? Or are they multiple
pieces for each step? Right now, I have 2 spots where the water (and ice)
get deposited.
Ed..
|
177.15 | Lots of muscle | WESTVW::LEE | 105 and counting | Thu Feb 14 1991 15:51 | 22 |
| One way to figure out if the steps are part of a riser:
Dig along one side of the steps until you find the footer or the bottom.
Usually, risers or steps don't go too deep into the ground.
If you found the footer then you should be able to lift the steps will longbars
and elbow grease. If you find the bottom then dig a little deeper
and then dig underneath the steps. Normally a riser is only 3 - 4 inches wide.
Decide if it is a riser or not.
If the first "test" was inconclusive, I'd take a longbar and see if I could feel
any lift on the steps.
If you decide that can lift the steps, then with more longbars
(and more help) you should be able to lift the steps enough to shove slate
chips, or other suitable hard materials (granite chips?).
This discussion assumes that you can make the steps level by raising 1 side.
And I'd do the digging on the "lower" side, since that is where all the work
will be done.
dave
|
177.16 | One more thing | WESTVW::LEE | 105 and counting | Thu Feb 14 1991 15:57 | 6 |
| If the back of the steps are lower than the fronts, then you can raise the
back. You have to work on both sides. A little more more work.
If possible, the back of thesteps should be a little higher. You want a little
bit of a slope so that water drains off towards the front of the steps and
away from your house.
|
177.17 | 2 ton hydrolic jack??? | SENIOR::HAMBURGER | Whittlers chip away at life | Sun Feb 17 1991 22:34 | 12 |
|
RE>Back a few....
I need to raise the back of my front steps to level them and get the
drainage correct. I thought digging out a corner and using a hydrolic jack
would get me exactly what I want without a lot of backbreaking labor. Then
I can use patio block to set the heigth and then backfill.
Anyone ever try this approach?
Vic
|
177.18 | Jack should be fine | WESTVW::LEE | 105 and counting | Mon Feb 18 1991 10:44 | 10 |
| re: -1
I can't see a problem with the jack.
As for the patio block, they don't handle stress very well. The block will crack
if not placed on a good base. Yet, the fact that the block breaks into pieces
doesn't mean that patio block would be a bad base, as long as it doesn't
break into too many pieces.
Maybe you could condsider a natural paver brick made of granite.
|
177.19 | A car worked worked fine | KAYAK::GROSSO | Prevent & Prepare or Repent & Repair | Mon Feb 18 1991 19:59 | 7 |
| re -.2
Yup, I used a hydrolic car jack and lifted my 3 step precast with
no trouble. I had the porch floor open to replace some rotten flooring so
access was trivial and I figured, why not. I used brick and slate to support
it.
-Bob
|
177.104 | wooden step collects water | CSCOA1::CONNER_C | | Wed Apr 03 1991 18:43 | 13 |
|
I checked through the notes on steps and stairs and didn't see this
so...
On of the wooden steps leading down from my front porch has cupped
and collects water everytime it rains. In order to flip over that
plank I would pretty much have to disassemble the stair railings and I
am wondering if there is not a simpler method to correct the problem.
Craig
|
177.105 | here are a few ideas... | CIMNET::LUNGER | These R not dark days;these R great days | Thu Apr 04 1991 08:07 | 8 |
| You could drill a few small holes at the low point of the cupping.
You could sand the board down to remove the twirled up edges, and
make the board flat again.
You could take a small file, and file a canal from the low point
to an edge to allow drainage.
|
177.106 | Plane and repaint | ZENDIA::REITH | Jim Reith DTN 226-6102 - LTN2-1/F02 | Thu Apr 04 1991 09:03 | 3 |
| You could take a hand/power plane to the front/back deges to level out
the step. You might just want to do the front so that the water doesn't
settle against the kickplate in the back and rot it
|
177.20 | Loose flagstones on front steps. | HPSRAD::BUSCH | Dave Busch, MRO1-2/S10 | Fri Apr 12 1991 16:34 | 7 |
| My outside front steps are surfaced with a layer of flagstones, one or two of
which have become dislodged. How can I "cement" them back in place? Do I use
some form of masonry mortar or perhaps an epoxy or silicone rubber or mastic
type of material?
Dave
|
177.80 | Repairing brick stairs | NOTIME::SACKS | Gerald Sacks ZKO2-3/N30 DTN:381-2085 | Fri May 03 1991 13:22 | 5 |
| We have brick stairs going up to our front door. A piece has broken off one
of the bricks at the front edge of a step. A few more bricks are cracked.
How can I remove and replace the broken brick without damaging other bricks?
What kind of brick should I use? How can I guard against breakage in the
other cracked bricks?
|
177.81 | | BROKE::LOMME | And now... for something completely different... | Tue May 07 1991 12:41 | 37 |
|
Hi,
I did just this job last summer. I had never done brick work before.
I found it pretty easy, but like any job you jut got to take your time.
I used a stone chisel/cold chisel and a 2 1/2 to 5 lbs sledge hammer to chisel
the mortar out. Just take you your time and do not force it. I don't know
if you can do anything about the cracked bricks. But if they are cracked,
they will break sooner or later. You can decide if they need to be replaced
now or later.
Chisel all/most of the mortar out from around the brick. In the mist of
this process the brick may loosen up on it's own. If the brick is on the
edge of the stairs, try to work the chisel under the brick from the side.
If the brick is surrounded by bricks on all four sides use the chisel
and sledge hammer to break the brick up. Clean all the mortar out.
When laying the bricks back in, make sure you wet the bricks. Dry bricks will
wick the water our of the mortar and weaken it. I bought a special tool
the help compact the mortar between the bricks and to smooth and bevel the
surface. Be careful with getting the mortar all over the brick. You will have
to use muric acid to clean it up. One tip. Spread liquid dish soap
on the brick where you do not want mortar. The mortar will not adhere to these
areas.
As far as what kind of bricks? I would use pavers. The are extremely hard
and long lasting. However when I did mine, I didn't want to redo everything,
so I located the same type of brick and used that. Beware that not all bricks
are the same size/width/color. In my case the mold was changed a few years
ago. It was very difficult locating what I needed, even in a small quantity.
Some people recommend sealing the bricks with Thomasons or some such
water proofer(sp?) to avoid cracking. Others say the once the bricks are
sealed moisture cannot escape, causing the to crack, because of the sealer.
Take you pick?
-bob
|
177.21 | Looking for USED granite stairs | RICKS::WARREN | | Tue Jul 09 1991 18:06 | 15 |
| I am restoring a 100+ year old victorian and would like to
know if anybody has access to "used granite stairs". The
option of buying new is cost prohibitive.
I am not interested in the prefab stairs and will settle
for wood if I have to but I would really like granite.
NO vinyl-siding, replacement windows, drop ceilings, or the
like for us thanks,
cheers
Mike
WHY55::WARREN
|
177.72 | Where to buy? | KRULES::FORSBERG | | Fri Aug 30 1991 09:42 | 4 |
| Where in the Acton/Littleton area may prefab concrete steps be
purchased?
Thanks \ Erik
|
177.73 | | AKOCOA::SELIG | | Fri Aug 30 1991 10:47 | 14 |
| You might try:
Foster Masonry Products
Lawsbrook Rd.
Acton
263-8571
Chase Precast
N Brookfield MA
800-242-7314
Wachusett Precast
Worcester, MA
508-756-0239
|
177.74 | | HPSRAD::RIEU | Read his lips...Know new taxes! | Tue Sep 03 1991 12:01 | 2 |
| Does San-Vel do them? They're right in Littleton.
Denny
|
177.75 | | VERGA::WELLCOME | Steve Wellcome (Maynard) | Tue Sep 03 1991 13:15 | 2 |
| Is San-Vel still in business? I thought they went bankrupt or
something a while back.
|
177.76 | The ties that bind | CIMNET::MOCCIA | | Tue Sep 03 1991 16:26 | 9 |
| Re .7
San-Vel's main business was producing reinforced concrete railroad
ties for Amtrak and, among others, the MBTA. The ties didn't work
out too well, and I believe the company - a division of a larger
company (Lonestar?) - went bust.
pbm
|
177.77 | Also Ideal Concrete Block, Westford | ROYALT::PORCHER | Tom, Terminals Firmware/Software | Fri Sep 06 1991 13:26 | 4 |
| There's Ideal Conrete Block on Power(s) Road in Westford, too.
Just a stone's throw from your house, too, Erik!
--tom
|
177.78 | Railing repair | GIAMEM::RIDGE | the trouble w/you is the trouble w/me | Thu Feb 13 1992 12:14 | 16 |
| Has anyone ever replaced/repaired the wrought iron rails on a
precastset of stairs? I guess you might say that I have rot iron
railings. ;^) The railings are attached in three places but two of the
three places have broken where the iron and cement meet. Can this be
repaired. or should I go with replacement?
I got a price on a single 5 step rail of $135 not including instalation.
($270 for a set) Since I only have one broken I would only replace it.
I have never seen the underside of a precast set of stairs so I am not
sure how they are attached.
Any help is paareciated.
Steve
|
177.79 | As good or better than replacing | JURAN::LAFORTE | | Thu Feb 13 1992 12:44 | 14 |
|
Hi Steve,
Why don't you repair it...You could get some angle brackets and mount
them to the side. The only real work you'd have to do is drill the
holes for mounting to the rail and then a few holes for the step mount.
Be sure to buy a drill bit that is suited for this purpose(cement or
concrete bit). Alot cheaper than replacing a rail and stair and should
be as good as the original rail if not better. Let us know how you make
out.
Hope this helps, Al
|
177.22 | resurface cement steps | STRATA::PROWELL | | Tue Feb 02 1993 15:53 | 6 |
| My back cement steps are breaking up on the surface.
What I would like to do is cold chisel to a level surface and then use
something on top the bases already there. Say brick, or slate. Any
suggestions, and how to information would be appreciated.
-laura
|
177.23 | No blisters... | LUDWIG::CASSIDY | Aspiring conservationist | Wed Feb 03 1993 00:07 | 11 |
|
> My back cement steps are breaking up on the surface.
> What I would like to do is cold chisel to a level surface and then use
> something on top the bases already there. Say brick, or slate.
It might be easier and more feasible to replace the steps.
Hollow (prefab) concrete replacement steps are available. I
don't know how cheap (or expensive) they might be.
Cutting and/or chiseling can be slow, messy and difficult.
Tim
|
177.24 | how high are the current steps? | SMURF::WALTERS | | Fri Feb 05 1993 13:57 | 12 |
|
You'd have to cut back a lot to add a half-height paving brick plus
a good bed of concrete without making the step higher than a
comfortable 7.6 inch rise. Even if you can cut out all that, chances
are you'll hit some reinforcing steel bar.
Simpler to just cut out the loose stuff and patch it in the spring.
Regards,
Colin
|
177.25 | How do I anchor posts. | RANCHR::GIFFORD | A pair of 45's beats 4 Aces | Wed Feb 10 1993 11:47 | 7 |
| I had a 3 step unit installed last year in E. Brookfield, Ma. I got it
from Chase Precast in N. Brookfield, Ma. and I think it was around $300
installed. I have an awning from the previous porch and I want to
install wooden posts to hold it up. I was planning on using 4x4 pt
lumber. How do I anchor the posts to the step unit??
Tom G.
|
177.26 | | JUPITR::HILDEBRANT | I'm the NRA | Wed Feb 10 1993 15:34 | 6 |
| RE: .25
Drill holes in the concrete. Install lead inserts, and then use lag
bolts.
Marc H.
|
177.27 | deck supports? | SMURF::WALTERS | | Wed Feb 10 1993 16:38 | 16 |
|
How about the "Silver" post supports used for decks? These are
normally bolted down on a J-bolt that was inserted in the wet concrete.
However, you can pin them down with masonry nails (predrilled the holes)
or drill out for a masonry anchor bolt.
These supports keep the timber off the ground and reduce the risk of
rot. They cost but a few dollars each.
Regards,
Colin
|
177.34 | old note, new question | CNTROL::STOLICNY | | Wed Mar 17 1993 16:08 | 9 |
| This seems as good a place as any to ask this question. Could any
of you knowedgeable readers provide me with information, preferably
a pointer to applicable sections of the Mass bldg codes, as to
what is required for a foundation (crushed stone, sonatubes, whatever)
under a set of precast stairs that is attached by columns to a
portico (which is in turn attached to a house)?
Thanks in advance,
Carol
|
177.110 | Help/Advice needed on repair/replacement of poured concrete stair | WHYNOW::NEWMAN | Alpha Personal Systems Marketing | Tue Apr 06 1993 13:41 | 29 |
| I need some advice having to do with the repair/replacement of my front steps
that are made out of concrete. They are starting to crumble along the face and
in one of the front corners. A side view looks something like:
|
|
|
Front Door -->|
| +--- Concrete platform approx 6'w x 4'd
| | +--- Corner where it is crumbling
| v v
+---------------+
| |<-- Face is crumbling
Poured ------->|CONCRETE STEPS +---+
Concrete | |
Foundation +-------------------+ <--- Ground
I believe that the steps were made on-site and poured directly on the ground.
They are about 20 years old. I am sure that the winters and chemical ice
removers have contributed to their decay.
I am wondering if it is worth repairing the stairs or if they should be
replaced. Can anyone recommend a contractor in the Greater Maynard Area who
could repair and/or replace them?
Any other advice?
Thanks
|
177.111 | Cover it | JUPITR::HILDEBRANT | I'm the NRA | Tue Apr 06 1993 16:45 | 3 |
| How about adding bricks as facing?
Marc H.
|
177.112 | TWO WAYS.. | NEMAIL::EAGAN | | Wed Apr 07 1993 10:55 | 8 |
|
I have seen the problem fixed in two ways.. Break up as much as
possiable.. Then build a form around the remainder and pour new steps.
What I think is a better option is build a pressure treated set of
steps.. They seem to be more durable.. I know mine have outlasted the
cement steps, both with a northern exposure!!
Ron
|
177.113 | Repair or replace | TLE::LIONEL | Free advice is worth every cent | Wed Apr 07 1993 10:58 | 24 |
| You can repair the steps - a recent issue of The Family Handyman
had an article on the subject. You use a special concrete patching
compound.
If you choose to replace the steps, budget between $1000 and $1500,
depending on the size of the steps and what you replace them with.
You can go for plain poured concrete, like you have, or fancy it
up with embedded bluestone or bricks. However, if you're considering
this, also look into going with granite steps. We did, and found
that they not only look much nicer than concrete, they are virtually
maintenance-free and will long-outlast concrete. On top of that,
they are no more expensive than poured concrete steps, possibly
even cheaper! We got quotes of $1200-$1500 to replace our old
poured concrete steps (which were sagging) with a new set (including
removal of old steps), but the total cost of granite steps,
including removal of old steps, pouring pad and installation, was
only $1200. We're VERY happy with this choice.
The granite steps are made up of custom-cut slabs for the step
surfaces, top landing and sides.
We got ours from Swenson Granite in Milford, NH.
Steve
|
177.114 | | REFINE::MCDONALD | shh! | Wed Apr 07 1993 15:18 | 12 |
|
Also consider:
The cast (hollow) cement steps that arrive complete
and are lifted into place.
And the (dare I say it) molded fiberglas variety that
have been so popular at home shows the past couple of
years. The half round faux-brick steps were pretty
amazing. Faux-brick, faux-stone, faux-concrete... all
of them were impressive.
|
177.156 | Looking for granite slabs | DCEIDL::CLARK | Ward Clark | Mon Apr 19 1993 11:55 | 12 |
| Our circa 1870 house has a foundation made of rough-cut granite slabs.
Some of the more regular pieces (about 1' x 2' x 4') were used as two
steps up to several outside doors.
Last summer, we moved the two granite slabs from a former side door to
create steps in a new front walk. We'd now like to get some similar
granite slabs to create some steps in another new walk.
Can someone recommend a supplier for rough-cut granite? Somewhere near
Townsend, MA would be a plus.
-- Ward
|
177.157 | | QUARK::LIONEL | Free advice is worth every cent | Mon Apr 19 1993 12:12 | 7 |
| I'm not exactly sure where Townsend is, but I can highly recommend
Swenson Granite Works in Amherst, NH. High quality and low prices.
They installed granite slab steps for our house last summer - they'll custom-
cut the slabs to your requirements, deliver and install them. A variety of
stone colors and finishes are available. 603-672-7827.
Steve
|
177.158 | Precourt | STAR::BECK | Paul Beck | Tue Apr 20 1993 01:23 | 1 |
| Check out Precourt in Stow (I think) MA.
|
177.115 | an update on .0 | WHYNOW::NEWMAN | Alpha Personal Systems Marketing | Tue Apr 20 1993 13:49 | 7 |
| an update on .0
Someone highly recommended a contractor to us (the name slips my mind at the
moment) who will remove the old steps and pour a new set. Total cost to
demolish the old steps, remove the debris, and pour a new set of steps is $500.
Sounded reasonable to us
|
177.159 | Location of Swenson's | SEIC::DFIELD | | Wed Apr 21 1993 10:24 | 5 |
|
Swenson's is approximately 12-16 miles from Townsend
center if you come up 13 and over 101 to 101A. It is
across the street from Wal-Mart on 101A.
|
177.160 | Curbing Cost ? | VISIBL::BUCK | Andrew G. BucK | Wed Apr 21 1993 11:06 | 6 |
|
How expensive is granite curbing? I'ld like about 60 ft of it to
line the edge of a brick patio along a driveway?
ps The stuff in piles along rt 2 has had my eye for about a year now!
|
177.161 | Call! | XK120::SHURSKY | If you're not lead dog, the view never changes. | Wed Apr 21 1993 11:41 | 17 |
| If I had known you were interested, I would have asked. I have been
frequenting rockyards lately. I suspect that it is going to cost more
than you want to pay. You can call and get prices from any rockyard.
As a WAG I'd say a minimum of $75 per 4 foot length. Of course, I
could be all wet.
I have had my eye on a bunch of stuff in our town recycling area. I
suspect the town plans on using them at a later date. Besides, I
would need some serious equipment to make off with them.
I have been looking for flat rocks for a wall. All that stuff is
pretty pricey. A lot of the cost is in the handling.
The only thing I ever bought like that was a grave marker. It had my
street number in it in 6" numbers. Now ensconced in one of my walls.
Stan
|
177.162 | | QUARK::LIONEL | Free advice is worth every cent | Wed Apr 21 1993 12:52 | 4 |
| Swenson sells granite curbing as well as flat pieces for walks, etc. Prices
vary depending on size and thickness, so call and ask.
Steve
|
177.163 | granite works on rte 3 | SMURF::WALTERS | | Wed Apr 21 1993 13:25 | 10 |
|
Apologies in advance for sketchy information, perhaps someone who
knows the area can fill in the details. There's a very big granite
works that is near Westford on rte 40 about 10 mins of rte 3. I drive
past it on the way to Forge Village Pond (one of my boardsailing haunts).
This place has acres of material cut to different shapes and what looks
like heaps of "rejects" that you might be able to get cheap.
Colin
|
177.82 | DYI product to repair cement stairs | STOWOA::DOONAN | | Mon Apr 26 1993 10:19 | 17 |
| I've got 5 or 6 cement stairs leading up to the back door of my house,
and at least three of stairs and landings going from one stair to the
other are in dire need of repair. The stairs have whole chunks of the
corners knocked off, and the landings are chipping away near where they
meet the stairs.
My neighbor told me of a product (thought he said something like 'Top
and Bom') which does the trick nicely in lieu of having a mason come in
and rebuild the stairs at considerable expense. Apparently this
product is not cement per se, which is why it works to well, because he
said that you can't get cement to stick to cement. Is that right?
Anyway, you just apply this product to rebuild the corners and smooth
out the landings, and you're done.
Anyone ever heard of this? It sounds like the answer to my prayers,
but I wanted to check it out here first.
|
177.83 | | QUARK::LIONEL | Free advice is worth every cent | Mon Apr 26 1993 11:13 | 7 |
| Your neighbor is correct, though I don't know what the name of the product
is. I've seen it for sale in various mail-order catalogs, but I imagine
you can find something similar at a building supply store. It is not
cement-based. (NB: Technically, what you have are concrete, not cement,
stairs. Cement is the primary ingredient in concrete.)
Steve
|
177.84 | What we got! | LUNER::DREYER | Camping Time!! | Tue May 25 1993 11:41 | 6 |
| We went to the hardware store (Pauls in Leominster) yesterday to get such
a product. The guy recommended hydrolic cement over the patch, so we picked
up a can of UGL for $10.99. He said all we have to do is chisel the cracks
out to 1/2" width and fill it.
Laura
|
177.85 | | VERGA::WELLCOME | Steve Wellcome PKO3-1/D30 | Tue May 25 1993 14:52 | 6 |
| If possible, undercut the edges of the crack, like so:
------------------------+ +-----------------
/ \
+------------+
|
177.86 | Cold water gives time. | MPGS::MASSICOTTE | | Tue May 25 1993 15:24 | 6 |
|
Be sure to use ice cold water too.
Use warm and your stirrer will come to an abrupt halt.
Fred
|
177.107 | Expansion Joint For Brick Steps? | NIOMAX::QUATTROCHI | | Tue Jul 06 1993 12:37 | 13 |
| I'm in the process of repairing my front steps, they were granite
stones with cement caps on top. The cement caps were going, so I
broke them off, re-pointed between all of the underlying stones,
and am now putting a layer of paver bricks to replace the cement.
I've already put in a layer of bricks on the top platform but I'm
wondering if I should have the mortar right against the house since
it's bound to crack due to expansion. The joint is about 1/2 to
1 inch thick. Any ideas on what I should use for an expansion
joint?
Thanks in advance,
Doug
|
177.108 | | QUARK::LIONEL | Free advice is worth every cent | Tue Jul 06 1993 12:42 | 7 |
| First of all, you must install some flashing between the steps and the wood
of the house or you WILL get rot. (If the steps don't come up against wood,
this is not necessary.) You don't want to physically join the steps with
the house, as the two may move independently. Leave a small gap to let water
drain through.
Steve
|
177.109 | Already Joined | NIOMAX::QUATTROCHI | | Mon Jul 12 1993 11:55 | 9 |
| The steps were already joined to the foundation of the house, granite
foundation and granite base for the steps. I'm just concerned about
the mortar I filled in between the bricks and the house. I did put
flashing in to protect the main beam (whatever it's called) that
runs along the side of the house. I'm going to break out the mortar
I put in but I still have about a 1" gap between the bricks and
house. Maybe my wife can put some plants along there to hide it?
Doug
|
177.164 | Scraps | NOVA::MICHON | | Fri Sep 03 1993 10:23 | 2 |
| Any body have a name or number for -.1
I need some granite scraps for a wall.
|
177.165 | MMS | REFINE::MCDONALD | shh! | Wed Sep 08 1993 10:33 | 31 |
|
I don't have the number for the place in Westford, plus they've changed
their name enough to leave me confused. It's something like "MMS" these
days.
As far as scraps go (not square cut slabs... not sure what you want)
they DO NOT deliver small amounts. You can pick from their scrap pile
and load yourself for a nominal fee... but even a full size pick-up
will not carry much... it is VERY dense material.
I decided it wasn't worth the zillion trips and the wear and tear on
my truck to save a few bucks.
I ended up buying 25 tons of sorted "wall stone" (chunky granite, not
field stone or blue stone) from Powell Stone and Gravel in Lunenberg
for about $800 delivered. Bring the dimensions of your wall and they'll
tell you how much you need. My wall was about 75' long x 3' deep
ranging from 4'high down to 2' high. Yecch.
Telephone for Powell: (508) 537-8100 or 1-800-640-8102
If you decide to go with the folks in Westford, be sure and tell
them to "Go pound sand" for me. I don't think I've ever dealt with
a less helpful or RUDER person in a looong time. The guy there
seems to treat people who are buying small amounts as if they are
a real pain-in-the-butt.
-Mac
|
177.117 | Replacing concrete steps | STRATA::MACALLISTER | | Wed Mar 16 1994 10:07 | 13 |
|
If my questions have been answered in a previous note(s) please
direct me there. The front concrete steps on our home have sunk a good
8 inches and are in need of replacing. I was wondering how much
replacement would cost and if anyone knew a good company for the job.
We live in Townsend, MA.
Any help would be appreciated..........Thanks..
Sean
|
177.118 | | NOTIME::SACKS | Gerald Sacks ZKO2-3/N30 DTN:381-2085 | Wed Mar 16 1994 11:37 | 1 |
| Note 3857. For contractors, see note 2000.
|
177.119 | Unlcear from the basenote | TOOK::DELBALSO | I (spade) my (dog face) | Wed Mar 16 1994 11:59 | 7 |
| re: .0
Is the replacement necessary because they are damaged or otherwise unacceptable
or do they only need to be raised and reset?
-Jack
|
177.120 | Clarifying basenote | STRATA::MACALLISTER | | Thu Mar 17 1994 06:31 | 10 |
| re: .2
The steps definitely need to be raised/supported and reset...They
are also badly cracked, pitted and weather worn....I have heard that
pre-fab hollow concrete stairs are affordable (?) and would like some
estimates on new rather than repaired..
Sean
|
177.121 | | QUARK::LIONEL | Free advice is worth every cent | Thu Mar 17 1994 10:25 | 6 |
| Look into getting granite steps instead. I found them to be cheaper than
poured concrete replacements, they look better and will last "forever".
We frequently get compliments on how nice our steps look (and they were called
out as an advantage in a recent refinancing appraisal.)
Steve
|
177.122 | Sounds good. Who does it? | ASDG::SBILL | | Thu Mar 17 1994 11:12 | 4 |
|
Who did your granite steps? Was it a masonry contractor or a lanscaper?
Steve B.
|
177.123 | | QUARK::LIONEL | Free advice is worth every cent | Thu Mar 17 1994 13:18 | 4 |
| Mine were from Swenson Granite Works in Amherst, NH. They did the
installation. I had a separate contractor pour the necessary concrete pad.
Steve
|
177.124 | more granite info | MIYATA::LEMIEUX | | Fri Mar 18 1994 13:00 | 27 |
|
The only other thing you might run into with Granite is if the granite folks
can't get close enough with the truck to where the steps will be set. In that
case they put the slab/fillers/treads as close a they can and you have to hire
someone to install the steps by hand or do it yourself...it's alot like building
the pyramids at Giza only with a lot less help :')
I do them with pinch bars, pipe, planks for rolling across the yard and 4x4 for
cribbing the top slab up to the right height so that it rolls right into place
on the top fillers. It ususally takes 2 of us. Largest one so far has been a
top slab that weighed about 2500lbs. We moved that one 50' up an incline on a
lawn to where it we had to raise it up 2 steps high to put it in place.
If you decide to go with granite, a concrete pad is the best foundation but you
can use a good 12" deep, compacted bed of stone dust as an alternative. It's
certainly cheaper to do. Make sure there isn't any topsoil left under the stone
dust and it shouldn't heave or settle. and make sure that you get the slab level
side to side with a slight pitch away from the house. Then you won't have to
mess very much with shimming the granite to get them set right. You'll only have
to shim a little to keep them from rocking when you walk on them.
I also think you will be amazed that granite isn't as expensive as it looks.
It's most definetly cheaper than Brick steps.
Have fun
Paul
|
177.125 | | QUARK::LIONEL | Free advice is worth every cent | Fri Mar 18 1994 13:14 | 11 |
| The only thing I can add to all the excellent advice in .7 is to make
absolutely sure that you have metal flashing between the steps and any wood
of the house. This applies to steps of any material. If you omit this,
you're setting yourself up for rot and insect damage.
The truck Swenson used to install my steps was amazing; sort of looked like
one of my son's Transformer toys with the telescoping and folding boom
and the stabilizer feet that came out. The installer was very careful to
use plywood to protect the lawn and asphalt walkway.
Steve
|
177.126 | | MIYATA::LEMIEUX | | Fri Mar 18 1994 13:38 | 7 |
|
Thanks for mentioning the flashing Steve. I guess I took it for granted that
everyone would use flashing....
I really have to second Steve's recomendation for Swensons. The company and the
drivers are great to deal with.
|
177.127 | | LEZAH::WELLCOME | Steve Wellcome MRO1-1/KL31 Pole HJ33 | Fri Mar 18 1994 14:01 | 7 |
| Re: .7
It's amazing what you can move with a couple of long prybars and some
assorted blocks of wood. A friend and I jacked up about 18" and moved
into place a stone slab that's about 6"x2'x4', just using a couple
of bars and lots of blocks. Two caveats: go slowly; keep your fingers
out from under!
|
177.128 | How about this one...PVC roller pipes | MIYATA::LEMIEUX | | Fri Mar 18 1994 14:29 | 12 |
|
Steve,
Whats really amazing is that I've been using 3" PVC schedule 40 for
rollers! First time I tried it I was amazed. I never would have tried if I
hadn't run out black pipe because I never thought it would hold the load under
motion. I tried it out on a 7" x 4' X 5' slab the first time and gave it the
ultimate test last fall with the 2500 pounder. Haven't crunched a piece yet.
Later
paul
|
177.129 | traditional methods | SMURF::WALTERS | | Mon Mar 21 1994 08:28 | 4 |
| That's how my tribe built stonehenge 5000 years ago. ;-)
Another tip - a couple of old car jacks can be very useful in spaces
where you can't wield the bar.
|
177.130 | another data point on granite vs precast | XLSIOR::OTTE | | Tue Mar 22 1994 13:41 | 13 |
| Just as a side note, I called Swenson's yesterday and in our case,
granite steps were looking to be about 2x as much as precast concrete
or putting up a 4x6 wooden deck/stair.
We're looking at replacing our current poured steps (32" high, 4 ft
wide) with something else and investigated swenson's as an alternative.
Since we're looking at such a large step, the granite was going to run
us about 1000.00 as opposed to 400-500 for precast with railings or
having someone build us a wooden deck.
Just another data point.
-randy
|
177.131 | | QUARK::LIONEL | Free advice is worth every cent | Tue Mar 22 1994 14:51 | 4 |
| I never said granite was cheaper than precast; I said it could be cheaper
than poured steps.
Steve
|
177.132 | wishful thinking... | XLSIOR::OTTE | | Tue Mar 22 1994 16:54 | 5 |
| re .14, my mistake--too much wishful thinking I guess ;-)
On the other hand, granite steps are certainly something to consider here
in the Granite state (NH) --the price isn't *too* prohibitive...
-randy
|
177.133 | | LEZAH::WELLCOME | Steve Wellcome MRO1-1/KL31 Pole HJ33 | Wed Mar 23 1994 08:54 | 4 |
| Another thought - consider looking at a building salvage place for
granite slabs. That's where my uncle got his granite front steps.
He got them cut to size by a monument (i.e. gravestone) company.
It might be cheaper.
|
177.134 | Amazing, never would have thought of PVC | STAR::KAYAK::GROSSO | Prevent & Prepare or Repent & Repair | Thu Mar 24 1994 11:41 | 9 |
| re: .11
I never would have thought to try PVC. I've been using cast off end
cuts from 4" concrete filled lally collumns which of course were strong enough
they served as rollers when I moved my garage. But they are heavy to heft
around, and pinch fingers and squash toes if you're not careful so I'm very
eager to try PVC. Did you experiment with 4" PVC? I've been terracing my
yard and garden with granite for several years now and am eagerly awaiting
the end of mud season so I can continue my latest project. Thanks for the great
suggestion.
|
177.135 | 2" and 3" sched 40 | MIYATA::LEMIEUX | | Thu Mar 24 1994 12:45 | 8 |
| Nope, never tried 4"inch. I've tried 2" and 3". The 3" flexes quite bit more
than 2" but it holds up OK. I might mention that I don't just run them over the
ground, I usually put 8' staging planks or plywood on the ground and roll the
pipe and slab on top of that. Staging planks work better than plywood by the
way.
Watch those downhill runs though, the slab can get awawy fom you pretty easily.
Haven't had to chase one too far yet :')
|
177.28 | Adjusting Awkward Last Riser on Porch Stairs | WMOIS::FERRARI_G | | Fri Jun 10 1994 11:33 | 22 |
| I plan on replacing the flooring on the front porch soon. I should be
able to save most of the old boards and save vs. spending $300 for PT
wood. I've checked the joists and they're all in good shape. My
question is around the last rise on the concrete stairs leading to the
porch. Each rise on the 3 steps is approximately 7.5", for a
"comfortable" step. However, the last riser to get onto the porch, is
about 10", making that last step awkward.
The porch length to the front door is about 10', with a 1" inch slope
to the stairs to allow for water to drain off. I could cut about 2"
out of last joist to allow for a more comfortable rise to step onto the
porch, but would a 3" drop over 10' be too much? Also, I could only
cut the section where the stairs and porch meet, because there's a
solid wall (not a railing and ballusters) around the outside. That may
make the 10' walkway to the front door lower than the rest of the
porch. Short of replacing the stairs, which are in good shape, or
adding an inch of concrete to every tread, anyone have any other ideas,
or do I just live with it?
approximately 2" out of the last joist, where the porch meets
|
177.29 | use PT? | SALEM::LAYTON | | Fri Jun 10 1994 13:06 | 4 |
| I suppose you might make a pressure treated "cap" of 2 by's to lay on
the concrete steps; this would make the top step 8.5.
Carl
|
177.30 | | NOTIME::SACKS | Gerald Sacks ZKO2-3/N30 DTN:381-2085 | Fri Jun 10 1994 15:12 | 1 |
| Some kind of stone laid of top would look nice. Slate maybe?
|
177.31 | Don't slope it more than 1/4" per foot | WMOIS::ECMO::SANTORO | Greg Santoro | Mon Jun 13 1994 10:24 | 1 |
| Any slope more than 1/4" per foot will seem strange to walk on.
|
177.116 | Who was the one who did the work? | TUXEDO::COZZENS | | Tue May 09 1995 16:06 | 4 |
| I know this is a couple years old, but did anyone find the name of the
person?
Lisa
|
177.136 | Pre-cast? | 10035::HOLT | at least I'm enjoying the ride | Thu Jun 08 1995 11:50 | 6 |
|
Looks like an earlier reply states $400-500 for pre-cast concrete steps
with railings. Any ideas on where I could call or go to price the
things local to the Ayer, MA area?
|
177.137 | | QUARK::LIONEL | Free advice is worth every cent | Thu Jun 08 1995 12:36 | 3 |
| Look in the Yellow Pages. Prices will vary depending on size.
Steve
|
177.166 | Craaaaaaaaaaaack! | TLE::WENDYL::BLATT | | Tue May 21 1996 10:08 | 42 |
|
A well-meaning (?!?) friend of mine, when told of my plans for
masonry steps (actually, a 4 X 6 landing and one step), said to me:
"you're doing WHAT??? I don't think you want to do that!"
He then told me of a story that his father told him. Dad was
sitting around the house one February day, when he heard this
horrendous noise coming from the basement. It was the foundation
cracking from stone steps suffering from frost heaves! He said
the foundation moved 2 inches!!! My friend said that the job had
been done by a professional and he dug down 4' (perhaps he maybe
stretched the facts to me a bit, to make the point of his story ???)
Could this stuff really happen when done by a quality professional?
Anyhow, I haven't yet talked to my mason about this newfound fear
of mine, but this is from the proposal:
"All steps will have a footing of 3 ft deep. 2 ft of crushed
stone. 1 ft cement rebar will be drilled into foundation
and put in cement pad."
I thought the worst thing that frost heaves could do, if installed
inadequately, is crack the mortar in between the stones (which I
assumed could be repaired if and when needed).
Should I request digging down 4'? Is there anything else I should
be asking or doing or checking? I don't really understand the method
of construction. I didn't think I was going to have to concern
myself with the details (for a change!). But I guess I don't have
that luxury now that I am worried about my foundation cracking.
I also thought the mason discussed cinder blocks somewhere along the
way, but now I'm not sure. The outside is going to be covered with
a 1 - 1 1/2 inch fieldstone flagging material. Sides and risers to
be cobblestone.
The mason comes with high recommendations and seemed very competent
(not that I really know how to judge masonry expertise...)
-Wendy
|
177.167 | Repair Ideas | DELNI::SALLET | | Mon Jun 10 1996 13:06 | 14 |
| I hope this is the right note. We need to do some repairs to our front steps
before the postman kills himself. The top landing and stairs are bluestone.
The little old lady who lived in the house prior to us buying it use to pour
salt on the landing and stairs in the winter and thus it has eaten away at
the bluestone. We already have 2 estimates for replacing the stairs but due to
other projects receiving priority with our cash, we need to do some sort of
interim fix. Not just so the postman doesn't hurt himself but also because in
a few areas it has literally crumbled and my kids are always tracking in little
pebbles into the front hallway and sratching the hardwood floors. Does anyone
have any suggestions (i.e, inexpensive suggestions) on how to shore these up
until next spring? Not sure if it matters but our staircase is double wide.
It's really only 2-3 areas that are in tough shape. We don't care if this
interim fix looks pretty or not, we just want something to fill up what has
broken away. Thanks.
|
177.168 | Try patching | BIGQ::ACKERMAN | | Mon Jul 01 1996 14:00 | 8 |
|
We had the exact same situation. My husband 'patched' it with some
do it yourself concrete he got at the hardware store. He did this
every year for at least three years. It does hold the bluestone in
place, it DOES crumble again every spring. Redoing our stairs was
extremely expensive ~$2K.
Michelle
|