T.R | Title | User | Personal Name | Date | Lines |
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481.1 | Shafted again | MSEE::KELLEY | got to get the short game togther | Tue Dec 27 1988 11:57 | 15 |
|
The Dynamic Gold comes in flexes such as S100, S200, S300, S400,
S500 - R100, R200, R300, R400, R500 - etc. The S is for stiff the
R is for regular the 300 is average the 100 less stiff, the 500
more stiff... In other words they have broken the stiffnesses down
into even smaller differences than just the general Regular, Stiff,
etc... The U in the S300U you mentioned just means that it is a
unitized shaft (talking about a unitized tiff diameter)...
The Taylite shafts I am not familiar with, but I assume it would
be quite similar in stiffness to the Dynamic Gold S300U. It could
have a different flex point or the difference in results that you
saw could also be due to a different swingweight, length, or....
Gene...
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481.2 | | 32214::BURKE | Jeff Burke | Thu Dec 29 1988 11:51 | 6 |
| I asked Dave Trull (Trull Brook, Tewksbury) the same question last summer.
He said that the the "X" in SX00U indicates the kick-point. The 300 is
supposed to be medium, 400 high, 200 low, etc.
Jeff
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481.3 | Kick point is another story...! | MSEE::KELLEY | got to get the short game togther | Thu Dec 29 1988 12:26 | 18 |
|
RE: .2
Hi Jeff,
Are you saying that the 300 means a medium kick point and the
400 has a high kick point etc....? If so, then I beg to differ.
The 300 indicates an average stiffness (S300 is an average stiff
shaft, R300 is an average regular flex). This has nothing to
do with the kick point (otherwise known as the bend point).
The bend point on all Dynamic Gold shafts is high as are all
the Dynamic shafts. The TTLite shafts have a mid-shaft bend
point. The True Temper Jet Step has a low bend point. BTW,
the lower the bend point the easier it is get the ball in the
air...
Gene (who_would_like_to_hear_from_others_on_this_point)
|
481.4 | dir | 32214::BURKE | Jeff Burke | Thu Dec 29 1988 14:30 | 15 |
| Gene,
If that is true it explains a problem I've been having.
I bought the Taylor Made Burner series (9.5, 13.0, 15.0, 21.0)
and had difficulty getting the ball up. All clubs seemed to
produce a low shot, especially the driver. I then traded the 13.0
for a 10.5 driver, but I still hit a low drive. I never really
liked the clubs and still have them all, even though I'm playing
my old PowerBuilt Citations. Perhaps I need a shaft with a lower
kick-point.
Jeff
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481.5 | Yup... | MSEE::KELLEY | got to get the short game togther | Thu Dec 29 1988 15:35 | 13 |
|
Jeff,
Are all of the shafts on your Taylor's Dynamic Gold?
If you went from 13 degree lost to a 10.5 you should
expect to hit it lower...
What kind of shafts are on your Power Builts? If you
think the shaft is the problem you could always have
the shaft changed in one of the clubs and see if it helps.
If so, then you could change the other shafts too...
Gene (who_knows_where_you_can_get_the_shafts_changed...!)
|
481.6 | | 32214::BURKE | Jeff Burke | Thu Dec 29 1988 16:34 | 14 |
| Gene,
I hit the entire Taylor Made set low, and they all have DG S300U
shafts. I was particularly having a problem with the 9.5 driver, which I
traded for a 10.5 (since I already had the 15.0 3W). My PowerBuilt clubs
have stiff "Dynasty" shafts.
Gene, You've given me a good idea -- I'll have the shaft changed on
the 9.5 (I still have it) to see what happens. Any suggestions for a pro
that can help me out?
Jeff
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481.7 | Don't shaft it again, yet! | ISTG::BLACKMAN | It's crackers to slip a rozzer... | Thu Dec 29 1988 16:49 | 12 |
| Jeff,
If you still have the 9.5 Burner Plus with the S300U shaft, and
it has some reasonable SwingWeight (and total weight), would you
want to sell it before you reshaft it? Even though Gene thinks
it should flex something like my 10 deg. Strong One with the old
Taylor Stiff shaft, it seems to kick harder, lower, and (it feels) slower
that the Taylite. The ball seemed to stay on the clubhead a fraction
longer.
/elliot (who ought to break down and buy a matched set)
|
481.8 | | SA1794::TENEROWICZT | | Fri Jan 06 1989 14:50 | 8 |
| I like to expand this discussion..... I have a problem with getting
the driver square on impact. I don't have this problem with any
of my other wood or irons. Typically I'm 2- 4 degrees off square.
Is there anything I can do with different shafts,flexpoints etc
to help me get the head square? I have no problme getting the ball
airborn.
Tom
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481.9 | off how? | MJOSWS::FAGLEY | beat the resident | Mon Jan 09 1989 11:11 | 8 |
| RE:.8
Which way off square? Clubhead lag(open), or closed? Sure, shaft
makes a difference. Example; open face... if you use a regular
shaft the clubhead may lag. A stiffer shaft might close the face
down a little.
Rick
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481.10 | | SA1794::TENEROWICZT | | Mon Jan 09 1989 13:22 | 3 |
| The club head will be open
Tom
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481.11 | sounds familiar | MJOSWS::FAGLEY | beat the resident | Mon Jan 09 1989 14:04 | 31 |
| RE:.10
Tom,
An open clubface will generally cause the ball to fade/slice.
I learned to play using a regular shaft driver and would fade
every tee shot in varying degrees (read ugly slice action now
and then). If you find your tee shots producing the same results,
and are generally happy with your swing, try what I did before
changing drivers.
(This advice is courtesy of our course pro, not my ideas!)
Be sure to play the ball forward in your stance (off the heel
of your front foot), and try flattening your swing a little.
To help you flatten the swing, drag your driver away from the ball
the first foot of your backswing. This changes the swing arc and
may help.
The pro advised me to go to a stiff shaft driver because I swing
very aggressively and was suffering some clubhead lag. Since changing
drivers my fade is not as severe and I even draw the ball now and
again. If you use a regular shaft and swing HARD, the problem could
be in the driver you use. Bear in mind flexpoints are related to
how quickly you get the ball up and don't sound like a solution
for you. (The closer the flex point to the ground, the faster the
ball rises, -right Gene?-).
I'm a relative newcomer to the sport but am successful off the
tee due to the above concepts. Take it for what it's worth!
Rick
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481.12 | a little weight here..... | DACT6::DEADY | | Tue Jan 10 1989 13:05 | 12 |
|
Tom,
Try adding some weight, lead tape for starters, to the toe of
the club. This will help to close the face during inpact.
You're not, by chance, using one of the new hitech, low torque
shafts are you? This can also cause open club faces if a golfer's
hands are not fast enough to square the club face at impact.
fwiw,
Fred Deady
|
481.13 | | SA1794::TENEROWICZT | | Wed Jan 11 1989 08:02 | 7 |
| Fred. I'm pretty sure that my hands are fast enough. No I'm not
using a hitech shaft. I was thinking of going to a metal driver
with some other shaft than steel. If I were to try the lead idea
where on the club would I put it and what amount of weight would
be a good starting point?
Tom
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481.14 | shaft qusetions...HELP | DECSVC::CARBONE | | Fri Jan 12 1990 12:13 | 14 |
| I have a couple questions on shafts that I hope someone can set
me straight on. A friend of mine who runs a golf course in R.I
has 2 sets of Wilson Staffs Fluid Feels for sale. One set has dynamic
gold S400 shafts and the other has Dynamic shafts. My question
is how different are the S400 from S300? I have been playing with
blades with S300 and am wondering if going to the S400 will cause
any problems.
The other question is does anyone have any information on the Dynamic
shafts? Are they as good as dynamic gold? etc.
I would appreciate any info as soon as possible as he is holding
these 2 sets for me. At a price of 289.00 for 2 - pw I want to
act on them FAST!!!
Thanks....Mike
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481.15 | Hope this helps... | MSEE::KELLEY | Golfoholic - club maker | Fri Jan 12 1990 12:29 | 15 |
|
Hi Mike,
You mould not have ANY problem going from S300 to S400. The
difference between Dynamic and Dynamic Gold is the tolerences.
Dynamic Golf having closer tolerances, thus more of the same
feel through the set. Dynamic Gold shafts are bought at a specific
flex and can be bought as specific sub-flexes (S100, S200, S300, S400
and S500 for sub-flexes of a stiff shaft). The Dynamic comes in
combination flexes R/S (regular/stiff) A/L (Amateur(senior)/lady) and
the amount of shaft that is trimmed from the tip determins which of
the the flexes you get from a given shaft.
Hope this helps
Gene
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481.16 | | DECSVC::CARBONE | | Fri Jan 12 1990 13:12 | 5 |
|
Thanks Gene, that is what I was looking for. Looks like I'll be
picking up my new irons tonight!!! Come on spring!!
Mike
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481.17 | Let's SPRING into Mike's wallet. | AIMHI::CORRIGAN | | Fri Jan 12 1990 15:34 | 7 |
|
Hey Mike,
S300??? S400?? You can get S5000, it ain't gunna matter!! Let's get
your "S" on the course and let the scorecard do the talkin' :*)
Joe
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481.18 | Any time , any place | DECSVC::CARBONE | | Mon Jan 15 1990 11:43 | 4 |
|
Okay Joe, you name the date and the place and I'll be there!!!
Mike (who is impatiently waiting to hit his new irons)
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481.19 | GRAPHITE QUESTIONS | BOGUSS::COOPER | MAD HACKER | Fri Jan 26 1990 12:26 | 15 |
| Gene,
I have a 3-wood head [stainless steel]and I was thinking
of having a graphite shaft put into it. Having never used
this type of shaft, I was really confused by the variety
that is available through some of the major suppliers now.
I have heard that you should get a stiffer flex than the
steel shaft usually used due to characteristics of the
material. Also, I am wondering about the torque factor as I
don't get a lot of hand action through the ball and might
have problems with an extremely low torque shaft. I have a
swing speed of 90-95 mph with my woods if this helps. Do you
have any thoughts on this or anyone else reading this reply have
feelings about using graphite shafts? I would enjoy hearing them.
THE MAD HACKER
|
481.20 | Kunnan nice price too! | GRANPA::RFAGLEY | | Fri Jan 26 1990 12:37 | 9 |
| 90 to 95 mph is pretty good clubhead speed! According to Apollo
that puts you in the "club pro" range! I have tried several
different graphite drivers, and found I need a firm shaft or I have
to wait too long on it. I'd suggest you stay away from the cheaper
shafts and try to find something around 3 degrees torque with a
mid to high bend point. Kunnan has a new 1460TFB that plays well
for a good to excellent golfer accustomed to steel.
Rick
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481.21 | Try'em... | MSEE::KELLEY | Golfoholic - club maker | Fri Jan 26 1990 12:55 | 14 |
|
Mad Hacker,
The best advise I can give you is to go try some demo clubs with
graphite shafts. I think you have a good enough knowledge of shaft
specs on your own and from info that has already been hashed over
in here. Now it is a matter of taking that knowledge and trying out
some of the clubs that you THINK would be good for you and see how
they feel and work for YOU. The cheapest way to do that is to find
a place that has demo clubs and try them or try some of your buddies
clubs that might have graphite shafts...
Good luck...
Gene
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