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Conference 7.286::golf

Title:Welcome to the Golf Notes Conference!
Notice:FOR SALE notes in Note 69 please! Intros in note 863 or 61.
Moderator:FUNYET::ANDERSON
Created:Tue Feb 15 1994
Last Modified:Fri Jun 06 1997
Last Successful Update:Fri Jun 06 1997
Number of topics:2129
Total number of notes:21499

481.0. "Shaft Power" by ISTG::BLACKMAN (It's crackers to slip a rozzer...) Tue Dec 27 1988 10:54

    A simple question on golf shafts.  I borrowed a Taylor Made Burner Plus
    driver (9.5 deg. loft, S300U shaft) at a friendly tournament and
    proceeded to hit four drives both straight and long.  My own driver is
    a Taylor Made "Strong One", with 10 deg. loft and a Taylite stiff
    shaft.  Drives hit with my SO find obscure places, pushed or pulled
    with relative equality, when I'm loose-brained enough to use the
    driver.  My three-metal is a Spalding executive with an R-shaft;
    it's my club of choice off the tee.
    
    What is a dynamic gold S300U shaft, and why do I want one?  My guess
    is it's something like the old Hogan N-shaft: stiffer than R, but
    not quite a full S.  Anybody have any real knowledge?
     
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481.1 Shafted againMSEE::KELLEYgot to get the short game togtherTue Dec 27 1988 11:5715
    
    The Dynamic Gold comes in flexes such as S100, S200, S300, S400,
    S500 - R100, R200, R300, R400, R500 - etc. The S is for stiff the
    R is for regular the 300 is average the 100 less stiff, the 500
    more stiff... In other words they have broken the stiffnesses down
    into even smaller differences than just the general Regular, Stiff,
    etc... The U in the S300U you mentioned just means that it is a
    unitized shaft (talking about a unitized tiff diameter)...
    
    The Taylite shafts I am not familiar with, but I assume it would
    be quite similar in stiffness to the Dynamic Gold S300U. It could
    have a different flex point or the difference in results that you
    saw could also be due to a different swingweight, length, or....

    Gene...
481.232214::BURKEJeff BurkeThu Dec 29 1988 11:516
I asked Dave Trull (Trull Brook, Tewksbury) the same question last summer. 
He said that the the "X" in SX00U indicates the kick-point.  The 300 is
supposed to be medium, 400 high, 200 low, etc. 

Jeff

481.3Kick point is another story...!MSEE::KELLEYgot to get the short game togtherThu Dec 29 1988 12:2618
    
    RE: .2
    
    	Hi Jeff,
    
    	Are you saying that the 300 means a medium kick point and the
    	400 has a high kick point etc....? If so, then I beg to differ.
    	The 300 indicates an average stiffness (S300 is an average stiff
    	shaft, R300 is an average regular flex). This has nothing to
    	do with the kick point (otherwise known as the bend point).
    	The bend point on all Dynamic Gold shafts is high as are all
    	the Dynamic shafts. The TTLite shafts have a mid-shaft bend
    	point. The True Temper Jet Step has a low bend point. BTW,
    	the lower the bend point the easier it is get the ball in the
    	air...
    
    	Gene (who_would_like_to_hear_from_others_on_this_point) 
    	
481.4dir32214::BURKEJeff BurkeThu Dec 29 1988 14:3015
Gene,

	If that is true it explains a problem I've been having.
I bought the Taylor Made Burner series (9.5, 13.0, 15.0, 21.0)
and had difficulty getting the ball up.  All clubs seemed to
produce a low shot, especially the driver.  I then traded the 13.0
for a 10.5 driver, but I still hit a low drive.  I never really 
liked the clubs and still have them all, even though I'm playing 
my old PowerBuilt Citations.  Perhaps I need a shaft with a lower 
kick-point.

Jeff

    	

481.5Yup...MSEE::KELLEYgot to get the short game togtherThu Dec 29 1988 15:3513
    
    	Jeff,
    
    	Are all of the shafts on your Taylor's Dynamic Gold?
    	If you went from 13 degree lost to a 10.5 you should
    	expect to hit it lower...
    
    	What kind of shafts are on your Power Builts? If you
    	think the shaft is the problem you could always have
    	the shaft changed in one of the clubs and see if it helps.
    	If so, then you could change the other shafts too...
    
    	Gene (who_knows_where_you_can_get_the_shafts_changed...!)
481.632214::BURKEJeff BurkeThu Dec 29 1988 16:3414
Gene,

	I hit the entire Taylor Made set low, and they all have DG S300U
shafts. I was particularly having a problem with the 9.5 driver, which I
traded for a 10.5 (since I already had the 15.0 3W).  My PowerBuilt clubs
have stiff "Dynasty" shafts. 

	Gene, You've given me a good idea -- I'll have the shaft changed on
the 9.5 (I still have it) to see what happens.  Any suggestions for a pro
that can help me out?

Jeff


481.7Don't shaft it again, yet!ISTG::BLACKMANIt's crackers to slip a rozzer...Thu Dec 29 1988 16:4912
    Jeff,
    
    If you still have the 9.5 Burner Plus with the S300U shaft, and
    it has some reasonable SwingWeight (and total weight), would you
    want to sell it before you reshaft it?  Even though Gene thinks
    it should flex something like my 10 deg. Strong One with the old
    Taylor Stiff shaft, it seems to kick harder, lower, and (it feels) slower
    that the Taylite.  The ball seemed to stay on the clubhead a fraction
    longer.
    
    /elliot (who ought to break down and buy a matched set)
    
481.8SA1794::TENEROWICZTFri Jan 06 1989 14:508
    I like to expand this discussion..... I have a problem with getting
    the driver square on impact. I don't have this problem with any
    of my other wood or irons. Typically I'm 2- 4 degrees off square.
    Is there anything I can do with different shafts,flexpoints etc
    to help me get the head square? I have no problme getting the ball
    airborn.
    
    Tom
481.9off how?MJOSWS::FAGLEYbeat the residentMon Jan 09 1989 11:118
    RE:.8
    
    Which way off square?  Clubhead lag(open), or closed?  Sure, shaft
    makes a difference.  Example; open face... if you use a regular
    shaft the clubhead may lag.  A stiffer shaft might close the face
    down a little.
    
    Rick
481.10SA1794::TENEROWICZTMon Jan 09 1989 13:223
    The club head will be open
    
    Tom
481.11sounds familiarMJOSWS::FAGLEYbeat the residentMon Jan 09 1989 14:0431
    RE:.10
    
    Tom,
    
      An open clubface will generally cause the ball to fade/slice.
    I learned to play using a regular shaft driver and would fade
    every tee shot in varying degrees (read ugly slice action now
    and then).  If you find your tee shots producing the same results,
    and are generally happy with your swing, try what I did before 
    changing drivers.  
    
    (This advice is courtesy of our course pro, not my ideas!)
      Be sure to play the ball forward in your stance (off the heel
    of your front foot), and try flattening your swing a little.
    To help you flatten the swing, drag your driver away from the ball
    the first foot of your backswing.  This changes the swing arc and
    may help.
    
      The pro advised me to go to a stiff shaft driver because I swing
    very aggressively and was suffering some clubhead lag.  Since changing
    drivers my fade is not as severe and I even draw the ball now and
    again.  If you use a regular shaft and swing HARD, the problem could
    be in the driver you use.  Bear in mind flexpoints are related to
    how quickly you get the ball up and don't sound like a solution
    for you.  (The closer the flex point to the ground, the faster the
    ball rises, -right Gene?-).  
    
      I'm a relative newcomer to the sport but am successful off the
    tee due to the above concepts.  Take it for what it's worth!
    
    Rick
481.12a little weight here.....DACT6::DEADYTue Jan 10 1989 13:0512
    
    Tom,
    
    	Try adding some weight, lead tape for starters, to the toe of
    the club. This will help to close the face during inpact.
    	You're not, by chance, using one of the new hitech, low torque
    shafts are you? This can also cause open club faces if a golfer's
    hands are not fast enough to square the club face at impact.
    
    					fwiw,
    
    						Fred Deady
481.13SA1794::TENEROWICZTWed Jan 11 1989 08:027
    Fred. I'm pretty sure that my hands are fast enough. No I'm not
    using a hitech shaft. I was thinking of going to a metal driver
    with some other shaft than steel. If I were to try the lead idea
    where on the club would I put it and what amount of weight would
    be a good starting point?
    
    Tom
481.14shaft qusetions...HELPDECSVC::CARBONEFri Jan 12 1990 12:1314
    I have a couple questions on shafts that I hope someone can set
    me straight on.  A friend of mine who runs a golf course in R.I
    has 2 sets of Wilson Staffs Fluid Feels for sale.  One set has dynamic
    gold S400 shafts and the other has Dynamic shafts.  My question
    is how different are the S400 from S300?  I have been playing with
    blades with S300 and am wondering if going to the S400 will cause
    any problems.
    The other question is does anyone have any information on the Dynamic
    shafts?  Are they as good as dynamic gold? etc.
    I would appreciate any info as soon as possible as he is holding
    these 2 sets for me.  At a price of 289.00 for 2 - pw I want to
    act on them FAST!!!
                                                                    
    	Thanks....Mike  
481.15Hope this helps...MSEE::KELLEYGolfoholic - club makerFri Jan 12 1990 12:2915
    
    Hi Mike,
    
    You mould not have ANY problem going from S300 to S400. The
    difference between Dynamic and Dynamic Gold is the tolerences.
    Dynamic Golf having closer tolerances, thus more of the same
    feel through the set. Dynamic Gold shafts are bought at a specific
    flex and can be bought as specific sub-flexes (S100, S200, S300, S400
    and S500 for sub-flexes of a stiff shaft). The Dynamic comes in 
    combination flexes R/S (regular/stiff) A/L (Amateur(senior)/lady) and
    the amount of shaft that is trimmed from the tip determins which of
    the the flexes you get from a given shaft.
    
    Hope this helps
    Gene
481.16DECSVC::CARBONEFri Jan 12 1990 13:125
    
    Thanks Gene,  that is what I was looking for.  Looks like I'll be
    picking up my new irons tonight!!! Come on spring!!
    
    	Mike
481.17Let's SPRING into Mike's wallet.AIMHI::CORRIGANFri Jan 12 1990 15:347
    
    Hey Mike,
    
    S300??? S400?? You can get S5000, it ain't gunna matter!! Let's get
    your "S" on the course and let the scorecard do the talkin' :*)
    
    Joe
481.18Any time , any placeDECSVC::CARBONEMon Jan 15 1990 11:434
    
    Okay Joe,  you name the date and the place and I'll be there!!!
    
    	Mike (who is impatiently waiting to hit his new irons)
481.19GRAPHITE QUESTIONSBOGUSS::COOPERMAD HACKERFri Jan 26 1990 12:2615
    Gene, 
      I have a 3-wood head [stainless steel]and I was thinking
    of having a graphite shaft put into it. Having never used
    this type of shaft, I was really confused by the variety
    that is available through some of the major suppliers now.
    I have heard that you should get a stiffer flex than the
    steel shaft usually used due to characteristics of the
    material. Also, I am wondering about the torque factor as I
    don't get a lot of hand action through the ball and might
    have problems with an extremely low torque shaft. I have a
    swing speed of 90-95 mph with my woods if this helps. Do you
    have any thoughts on this or anyone else reading this reply have
    feelings about using graphite shafts? I would enjoy hearing them.
    
    THE MAD HACKER
481.20Kunnan nice price too!GRANPA::RFAGLEYFri Jan 26 1990 12:379
    90 to 95 mph is pretty good clubhead speed!  According to Apollo
    that puts you in the "club pro" range!  I have tried several 
    different graphite drivers, and found I need a firm shaft or I have
    to wait too long on it.  I'd suggest you stay away from the cheaper
    shafts and try to find something around 3 degrees torque with a
    mid to high bend point.  Kunnan has a new 1460TFB that plays well
    for a good to excellent golfer accustomed to steel.
    
    Rick
481.21Try'em...MSEE::KELLEYGolfoholic - club makerFri Jan 26 1990 12:5514
    
    Mad Hacker,
    
    The best advise I can give you is to go try some demo clubs with
    graphite shafts. I think you have a good enough knowledge of shaft
    specs on your own and from info that has already been hashed over
    in here. Now it is a matter of taking that knowledge and trying out
    some of the clubs that you THINK would be good for you and see how 
    they feel and work for YOU. The cheapest way to do that is to find
    a place that has demo clubs and try them or try some of your buddies
    clubs that might have graphite shafts...
    
    Good luck...
    Gene