| Richard,
My friend had N20 in his Buick Grand National (like he needed it) :')
The only "problem" he had with it was when he installed the system
he didn't RTFM and aparently had some nitrous pressure built up within
the system, and when he turned the key he "got a surprise". I don't
recall the specifics, but it wasn't anything major. If YOU install
it, read the manual.
As far as "how much power", the system was rated at 100 horsepower,
and the way he applied it was via a button in his ashtray. He never
hit the button and kept it pressed, he'd always ease into it in little
spurts. Even then it (accelleration) was _noticable_.
Did he break his engine? no. He totalled his car when it had a little
over 100,000 miles on it. He changed the oil routinely, and wasn't
on the nitrous a lot. I was only in the car twice when he "hit the
button". I think 100K is good for the type of driving he did (BANZI).
I wish I could keep a motor together that long. :'|
What brand is best? This system was the NOS "power shot". If you're
going to get a kit, I'd get this one. It's around $322 (US). With
the cheater system it's $388. You're probably not going to need the
additional levels of power available with the cheater, unless you
modify your engine some more. I'd go with the Power Shot since it is
common, cheap, offers 125 horse, and is geared towards average stock
hp cars.
Some things to note when running nitrous is to have a good, well
performing ignition system, and fuel system. If you lack either of
these, you could cause yourself some serious grief. Sounds like
the rest of your drive train will take the additional power.
Traction will probably be a big problem for you until you figure
out how your car will perform with nitrous, like when to turn it
on and at what times. My friends GN would run 12.7 without the
nitrous, since most of the times at the track he was afraid of
walking home, and he wanted to be consistant. Even still, one
night when we lined up I still blew his doors off... ;')
Finally, read the instructions when you install the kit.
Regards,
Mike
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| .1
Mark,
That was interesting info, thanks. I can still see a couple of
advantages for "the Cheater", the first is that it is versatile.
I agree that I don't need more power at the moment but knowing
myself I guess I may be in the need of more in a couple of years.
The other advantage is that I think it is much easier to sell
second-hand since it is versatile.
Keep your NOS tips coming.....
Richard
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| Richard,
If you do decide to use NOS, I'd be real interested in your (or anyone elses)
experiences. I too am considering the use of NOS. I was only thinking of
the addition of about a 50 hp kit. After reading the response by m_maciolek
(Mike?), I may just have to use the 125 hp kit. When I built my 327, I used
ARP rod bolts, forged pistons, a forged steel crank, and stainless steel
intake and exhaust valves so everything should be stout enough to handle a
little giggle gas.
I'd really like to run low 13s/high 12s in the quarter and at this altitude
NOS is the only way that I am going to be able to do it with out tearing my
engine apart again and getting radical with it.
Mark
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| My experience with the 125 horse nitrous kit is that it is
not very hard on an engine when used correctly. I had it on
a stock Chevy 350 in an Impala with very high mileage, and
everything held together o.k.. Make sure you have adequate
fuel pressure, as the nitrous needs lots of fuel when it is
used.
Rich
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|
I bought a Swedish made Nitrous progressive control system a
couple of weeks ago. There are two types of NPC boxes, one
"Inital Power version" and one "Inital Delay version".
The way it works is that You use a full throttle switch to
trigger the NPC box. Then You have three possibilities two control
the NOS with. On the "Initial Delay" box You choose first of all
the time 0-3 seconds (0.2 seconds interval) when You start to
give the engine giggle gas (You start at 30% of the total amount
of Nitrous Oxide). Second You choose the time 0-3 seconds (0.2
seconds interval) for the power build up time. That is the time
from when You start to give the engine Nitrous Oxide until You
give the engine 100%. Third You can control the total amount of
Nitrous Oxide You want give Your engine (50-100%).
The "Initial Power version " works exactly the same way except
that instead of having the possibility to choose a delay before
You start feeding giggle gas You choose how much in % You start
to feed with (30-100%).
I choose the "Inital Delay" box since I don't have a pure race
chassie, another reason to choose the delay box is to spare my
poor, severly punished C4 and my tiny little 28 splines axles ;^).
I went racing the other day on a 1/8 mile track. My previous best
1/8 mile time was 7.8 and that was when I used Nitrous Oxide on
second and third gear. I started out with a 1.2 second delay,
1.4 second build up time and 100% power level (I use the 150hp
NOS cheater jets). I got 1.92 at the 60 foot and ended at 7.63
97 mph. Worked just great.... Since I am racing in ET Sportsman
where there is a breakout at 7.50 I had to try a tougher setup.
This time I used 1.0 as Initial delay, 0.8 as build up time and
still 100% power level. This time the run ended at 7.498 seconds.
Breakout by 0.002 seconds...... Still I was very satisfied. It was
20 cars entering the race and I made it to the semi-finals where
I lost partly because of lost Nitrous Oxide pressure. It was a nice
race.
Since everything has been working great when I have used Nitrous
Oxide I can only recommend the stuff. My car is a totally diff-
erent car with NOS. According to Shiftmaster my car gives approx.
370 hp without NOS and 500 hp with the 150 hp Cheater kit. According
to Shiftmaster my 7.498, 97 mph slip points down to 11.5-11.6
on the 1/4 mile. Sounds great to me.
The Nitrous progressive control box seems to be a great thing. I
think that it can save a lot of parts and make You much more consistent
using NOS.
Have a nice day, Richard
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