T.R | Title | User | Personal Name | Date | Lines |
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2552.1 | this brings back old memories... | AQUA::GRUNDMANN | Bill DTN 297-7531 | Thu Jan 17 1991 11:25 | 25 |
| Years ago, some friends and I used to write and tape fake "radio shows"
(just for fun) in a basement. We used to hang old blankets on the walls
to dampen the room. Without the blankets, it was so echoey as to be
useless. It made a big difference for voice recordings -
intelligibility was much improved.
You MUST keep the recording equipment sonically isolated from the
microphones. That was a problem for us, because back in those days, we
had little equipment or cash - our microphone cables were not very
long... It was disappointing to play back a recording somewhere else
and hear the cooling fan of the tape deck humming away in the
background... And if you're playing back stuff with the same deck, you
don't notice that the deck's sounds have gotten on the tape.
Don't use fluorescent lights - they create electrical and physical
noise. Also, don't use light dimmers on incandescent lights - the
dimmers create rfi.
If you put a wall between the recording area and the recording
equipment, you'll want a double pane window for visual signalling
between the engineer and the performer. We were rather aware that
blankets are opaque ;)
I wonder if the basement underneath could cause acoustic trouble...
echoes? Would thick carpetting help?
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2552.2 | | KEYS::MOELLER | Stressed ? Just say 'Damitol'-I do! | Thu Jan 17 1991 12:16 | 19 |
| I see the basic decision is whether to have two acoustically separate
spaces or one. Since I do 99% of my recording electronically, I need a
control room slash performance space. Occasionally I do record
acoustically, and have never noticed hum or hiss or background noise
from recorder or computer fans/disks.. close miking with a
unidirectional mic takes care of it. You'd be running back and forth
like a maniac. Perhaps just a baffle between the louder equipment and
your acoustic recording space.. I take it you're talking about acoustic
guitar and vocals.. you could easily set up a baffled space in a corner
for that (also cutting down on the work involved in deadening the
entire building).
FWIW: When I have a music project I don't want to get to, suddenly cleaning
the studio and rewiring or rerouting cables becomes a high priority. OR:
..labelling tapes.. recataloging my sample diskettes.. reading up on
new equipment.. sorting thru old music comix for specific articles..
.. you get the idea..
karl
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2552.3 | a suggestion | UPWARD::HEISER | news: 71 shopping days til no PNO | Thu Jan 17 1991 12:30 | 7 |
| With the investments going inside, would it be wise for you to consider
a security alarm?
Of course it depends on your area, but it might be a good idea for a
separate building.
Mike
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2552.4 | cut to the quick | DYPSS1::SCHAFER | Say yer prayers, varmit! | Thu Jan 17 1991 13:51 | 26 |
| Okay, Karl - you nailed me. But the studio is something that's not
just "busy work" ... I'm currently stuck in a 6x10 room that's in the
corner of the top of our house - the ceiling is only 6 ft high at the
roof peak! Not conducive to group practice or any sort of moving
about, for that matter. It's a real problem.
As for "work space" ... what I'd hoped to do was to isolate the control
room from the rest of the place. That way, I could use the "practice
room" for group practice and acoustic recording when necessary, while
limiting traffic in the ctl room (which would contain most of my MIDI
gear, recording gear, computers, etc). Traffic control is very
important to me at this point.
I fully intend to put in a burglar alarm, Mike ... crime isn't a real
big problem around these parts, but one never knows.
Are fluorescent fixtures going to be a problem if they're on a separate
circuit? Given the light quality and low heat emission, I'm tempted to
get a couple of good fixtures - as long as I can be certain that they
won't introduce any noise. BTW - I know all about dimmers and that
sort, and don't intend to use them at all.
Am I going to have to be concerned about the "big open space" with the
lofts? I'd sure like to avoid having to enclose it.
+b
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2552.5 | | DCSVAX::COTE | Edd, 18.5 - Mousies, 15 | Thu Jan 17 1991 13:59 | 8 |
| > Big open space...
Why not build some portable panels ("gobos") that you can set up at
will? They can lie against a wall when not in use.
I wish I had a room with some bigly natural ambience...
Edd
|
2552.6 | | STROKR::DEHAHN | No time for moderation | Thu Jan 17 1991 14:18 | 34 |
|
If you can afford to isolate the control room, it will pay off during
mixdown. If the rest of your band wants to take a break and goof off
for a few minutes, you can listen to the tracks undisturbed by
extraneous noise. It will also help keep the monitor levels down.
You would definitely want to build some gobos. I wouldn't worry as much
about the ceilings, rather the configuration of the walls. I would
deaden the wall against the control room wall, creating a dead end and
also damping resonances that would pass through to the control room.
Like Carl says, if you are worried about the reverb time of the room
affecting acoustic music, you can surround the musician(s) with gobos
and close mike. Natural, controllable reverb can be a blessing.
Absolutely no way on flourescents or dimmers. With a combination of
track lighting and overhead drop lighting on seperate circuits you can
vary the feel of the room without resorting to the risks associated
with dimmers etc. While building the control room, consider building a
double wall by staggering the studs and in between putting a wire mesh
tied to ground. This creates a Faraday cage which can lower the EMI/RFI
in the control room dramatically, for little extra bucks. A retail
store liquidation/auction may get you a nice double pane glass window
for little bucks, or you could use half of a sliding door and frame
around it. As for running all those signals in one cable, I've never
done it before, and would consider it a risk.
Control room acoustics are another matter of concern.
Good luck and have fun
CdH
CdH
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2552.7 | sound damp using sheetrock | SALISH::EVANS_BR | | Thu Jan 17 1991 17:57 | 19 |
| One of my friends was a carpenter, and he remarked on building studios
for his friends by using the technique of building a room inside a
room, or,
strip all rock off walls to studs. Place new studs between and
inside existing studs, insulate like mad. mount metal "z" strips
horizontally on wall *loosely*, then attache 1st sheetrock layer to
that *loosely*. Mount second sheetrock layer (perpindicular to first)
firmly to first layer. Do not allow any "wall" to touch against
another, (ceiling or floor).
Ultimately, he says, each wall will be a little "spring-y", which damps
sound within, and without the room. Upon the wall, I guess you'd want
to put your particular sound dampening layer on top of the sheetrock
(or paint it! :-)
Made me decide headphones were cheaper!!! :-)
Bruc Evans
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2552.8 | studio construction | DOPEY::DICKENS | What are you pretending not to know ? | Fri Jan 18 1991 11:03 | 42 |
| Well, since I'm not a home-moaner yet, I haven't had any first-hand experience
yet, but here are some of the things I've seen, heard, etc. about studio
construction.
First, I've heard some say that any space smaller than 30x50x15 is too small
for a good ambient recording space. You have to deaden it as completely as
possible, or all the short echos will give you mud. I'm sure some will argue
that it could be smaller; maybe so if you really know what you're doing.
The tascam guide to home recording I got years ago has loads of information on
deadening rooms in very few pages. Like hanging rugs in multiple folds from
clotheslines on the ceiling, hanging rugs a few inches from the walls, using
pieces of various diameters of sono-tube cut to various lengths to trap certain
problem resonances, etc, etc.
I guess that egg-crate looking acoustic foam is good, but it's real expensive.
As far as sound-insulation, I've heard, as .-1 said, that sheet-rock "clips"
are the way to go. The ones I've seen were made of resilient plastic, though.
Other things you can do are:
Stagger the (2x3) studs in a partition wall so the studs that support one side
aren't supporting the other side. Weave fibreglass insulation inbetween the two
sets of studs.
Use two layers of sheetrock with overlapping taped joints. Glue on the second
layer instead of nailing it. By making a room literally air-tight you can
drastically reduce sound leakage in and out.
Use regular styro-foam sound insulation in the walls between the studs (less
effective).
Also, homosote or bracewall board (celulose sheathing board) is a great sound
insulater.
If you want real quiet in a big basement or something, you can even "float" a
room on elastomer shock absorbers on it's own set of isolated 2x6 floor joists.
When I do buy a house, I'm going to be dangerous.
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2552.9 | X'over from other interests | ULTRA::BURGESS | Mad man across the water | Fri Jan 18 1991 11:39 | 9 |
|
In response to a similar request I once copied out an article
on building music studios from Fine Homebuilding magazine and
circulated a few copies. I'll try to dig it up again, it might give
you some ideas on what else to consider, how to actually do it, etc.
Lessee, 3 or 4 years ago maybe...... I'll look.
Reg
|
2552.10 | Interior wall cabling | PAULJ::HARRIMAN | Do not annoy the monkeys. | Tue Jan 22 1991 11:56 | 29 |
|
Re: running cables
You can use multiconductor cable to run a "snake" between the two
rooms. I would not carry ac lines anywhere near signal lines,
and I would make all signal lines balanced. But you could, for instance,
run intercom/talkback lines in your multiconductor cable lines.
Judging by the diagram, you could make a snake run under the floor with
less than 25 feet of multiconductor wire.
re: room size
I tend to agree with Karl - if you're doing mostly direct-to-tape,
i.e. you use a sequencer and no as many mikes, then make the control
room big enough to handle your keyboards. If you work alone, it beats
running between rooms ;^) I don't agree with opinions on "large
rooms being better" for recording quality. Most directional mikes
used in home recording won't pick up that kind of nuance anyway, unless
you're planning on shelling out for a U-47 or something. So your
studio room size should be big enough to be useful, but not so big
as to make your control room too small. To me, "useful" is big enough
to put either a 3-4 piece acoustic band, or at a minimum, big enough
to fit a drum set into.
We won't get into the shape of the room right now...
/pjh
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