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Conference vmszoo::rc

Title:Welcome To The Radio Control Conference
Notice:dir's in 11, who's who in 4, sales in 6, auctions 19
Moderator:VMSSG::FRIEDRICHS
Created:Tue Jan 13 1987
Last Modified:Thu Jun 05 1997
Last Successful Update:Fri Jun 06 1997
Number of topics:1706
Total number of notes:27193

1024.0. "flaps for plug-in wings" by ZENDIA::REITH (Jim Reith DTN 226-6102 - LTN2-1/F02) Mon Jan 28 1991 09:29

    Well, I'm finally building an older standard class glider that I've
    held onto the plans for 15 years for. The one thing that the plans
    don't show is the method used for the disconnect mechanism for the
    flaps with the plug in wings. They discribe a torsion bar within the
    panel that hooks up at the fuselage. I've got a plan in mind and I'd
    like some opinions and/or alternate methods.
    
    The plans show a long brass tube with a horn soldered onto the end that
    the flap linkage hooks to. I can get some square brass to fit into the
    tube and another piece of squre to fit into that one and use this as a
    key between the fuselage and wing tubes. This will allow me to locate
    my servos all under the canopy and keep all the weight at or in front
    of the CG. I don't want to put servos in the wings. Does this sound
    like a reasonable approach?
T.RTitleUserPersonal
Name
DateLines
1024.1Flap drive systemNAMBE::TTOMBAUGH20/20 Vision&walkin'round blindMon Jan 28 1991 10:0333
    Jim,
    
    I don't know if the fuselage will be built up balsa or fiberglass
    but the flap drive method that Dodgson uses in his kit works well
    and can be used in either type of fuse.
    You have to have a method that will allow for slop and misalignment,
    wing movement, etc. Dodgsons' does that, the square tube system
    may not.
    
    Dodgsons system uses two pieces of 1/16" music wire bent at 90 degrees.
    One leg from each piece runs through a brass tube inside the fuse.
    The other legs project outside the fuse. and have a short length
    of wire coiled around them. The free end of the wire is inserted
    into a tube in the inbd. end of the flaps. The wire is free to move
    on the rod and free to slip in and out of the flap tube( which it
    can't do when the wings are plugged on.)
    
    A nylon control horn with a metal sleeve and allen head set screw,
    Du Bro makes several sizes, is slipped over the brass tube in the
    fuse. , and the set screw is tightened down on the music wire through
    a small hole drilled in the tube. The flap servo is hooked to the
    horn with any convenient length pushrod.
    
    In the event of a hard landing the wings are free to move outbd.
    without damaging the flap drive, or if the flaps hit the ground
    hard the set screw will slip on the drive wire, if not torqued too
    tight, saving the servo gears and flap structure.
    
    This is about 10 times more complicated to read about than it is
    to do.
    
    Terry
    
1024.2Sounds interesting but I can't quite picture itZENDIA::REITHJim Reith DTN 226-6102 - LTN2-1/F02Mon Jan 28 1991 10:2311
    Thanks Terry.
    
    It IS pretty difficult to read/understand. ;^)
    
    The fuselage is built up and there isn't any access built in below the
    wing. If I understand you correctly, the wires go into the flaps and
    the ends cross under the horn so that the horn set screw holds them
    together once the wings are in place? I suppose I'd need a hatch on top
    to access the set screw during assembly?
    
    Thanks for the help but as usual, I think I'm confused...
1024.3More flap driveTULA::TTOMBAUGH20/20 Vision&walkin'round blindMon Jan 28 1991 11:0119
    You've got the basic concept Jim. Both wires go inside the brass
    tube. One wire is CA'ed into the tube permanently. The other is
    captured by the set screw. When the horn rotates the tube , both
    wires rotate with it. The horn is set off center to be over the
    unglued wire.
    
    The set screw is set at an angle pointing down and a small hole
    is drilled in the bottom of the fuse. to allow access with a long
    allen wrench.
    
    This method was intended for a fiberglass fuse. where no access
    to the wing t.e. area is possible inside the fuse. With a built
    up fuse. the flap drive mechanism could be installed before the
    top is slapped on.
    
    I could send you a copy of the relevant portion of the plans I
    have, if you'd like.
    
    Terry
1024.4Guess I'm just missing the simplicity of it.ZENDIA::REITHJim Reith DTN 226-6102 - LTN2-1/F02Tue Jan 29 1991 08:0413
    Now I'm MORE confused ;^)
    
    Is there a total of two wires or a total of 4 (2 per panel)? With the
    wings  plugging in with some dihedral the wires from opposite sides
    aren't able to join like you specify and in order for the wings to be
    removed I would think I need to release the set screw to withdraw the
    wing wire. I think I need the picture...
    
    Jim Reith
    LTN2-1/F02
    
    Or I can find out the number for the Fax machine in the next office if
    that's convenient.
1024.5More on Dodgson Flap linkageKAY::FISHERStop and smell the balsa.Tue Jan 29 1991 08:49164
>    Now I'm MORE confused ;^)

I'll try add to the confusion.  I consider myself an expert on the Dodgson
flap mechanism since I put my Lovesong flap mechanism together the last few
days.

Now to try and draw some things.

End view of flap looking from the center of the wing towards the tip.
                
           __-~|<----- Hinge point
       __-~    |
   __-~        |
_-~0___________| 
   
   ^  This is the hollow brass tube inserted into the flap.

Front view of Flap, Left is the inside edge, Right is towards the tip (Aileron).


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
   |                                                                          |
   |                                                                          |
   |                                                                          |
   |=========_________________________________________________________________|

      ^ There is that brass tube again but notice that the top of the flap
        skin (Balsa and Fiberglas) hangs over the edge.  This is to allow room
        for the flap mechanism but hide it from the top view of the wings
        when mounted on the fuselage.

Simplified top view of the fuselage, Left is forward, Right is aft.
                                   ______________
                                  /  ____________|
----------------------------------| |-------------------------------------------
                                  | |
                                  | |
                                  |_|
                                   _ 
                                  | |
                                  | |
                                  | |
----------------------------------| |-------------------------------------------
                                  \  ------------
                                   --------------|

These are two thick (maybe 3/16" on a large glider (Lovesong) pieces of
music wire bent to 90 degree angles and not shown are the brass bushings.
You drill two holes in your fuselage and stick small hollow brass bushings
in the holes then stick the 90 degree music wires thru them.

Now you put a sleeve of brass in the center to fasten the whole works together.

Top view of the fuselage, Left is forward, Right is aft.
                                   ______________
                                  /  ____________|
----------------------------------| |-------------------------------------------
                                 || ||
                                 || ||
                                 ||_||
                                 | _ | <-Hollow brass tube holds flaps arms
                                 || ||
                                 || ||
                                 || ||
----------------------------------| |-------------------------------------------
                                  \  ------------
                                   --------------|
Now my directions differ from the previous ones in that Dodgson says to solder
the brass in the middle - this of course leaves no adjustment but you could
always unsolder to adjust a tad.

But we forgot to add the control arm - so before we solder we must also
slip on a control arm.  This is a nose wheel steering arm.

Top view of the fuselage, Left is forward, Right is aft.
                                   ______________
                                  /  ____________|
----------------------------------| |-------------------------------------------
                                 || ||
                                 || ||
                                 ||_||
                                _| _ |_
                       ________/ || || |
                      |________  || || |
                               \-|| ||-
----------------------------------| |-------------------------------------------
                                  \  ------------
                                   --------------|

Now in reality the flap arms are mounted kinda high in the wing and the flap
control arm (nose wheel steering arm) actually hangs more straight down
and you adjust for correct throw.  In fact it actually will end up pointing
aft quite a bit if the flaps are raised as they are in the above diagram.
However the diagram is correct because it is assumed that you haven't tightened
the set screw on the control arm yet.

Now lets talk about the arm sticking out the side of the fuselage.

Top view of the fuselage, Left is forward, Right is aft.


----------------------------------| |-------------------------------------------
                                  \  ------------
                                   --------------|

                                        ^ just this part now is all we want
                                          to be concerned with.

We want to put a piece of music wire on the end of this arm that is the same
diameter as the inside diameter of the hollow brass tube in the flap
and we want it to be free to rotate up and down and travel forward
and aft on the control arm.

So we take a piece of music wire and bend the end in a circle so that
it looks like an eye hook.

So you have a piece of music wire maybe 1.5 to 2 inches long with a loop
at one end.  Slip the loop over the flap control arm above.

Top view of the fuselage, Left is forward, Right is aft.


----------------------------------| |-------------------------------------------
                                  \  ---------#--
                                   -----------#--|
                                              #
                                              #
                                              #  <-- Music wire hooked on end
                                              #      of flap arm
                                              #

Since it slipped on the arm so easy it is free to travel forward and aft.
(Left and right on this drawing) and to pivot up and down.

Now it would be nice if this music wire wouldn't keep falling off the flap
arm so we take the 90 degree flap arm over to our anvil and whack a flat
spot in the end of it so the music wire cannot come off the end.

Remember there are 3 brass bushings not shown.  Two are in the fuselage sides
where the 90 degree flap arms pass thru.  Be careful not to let any solder
get to this area!  The third one is between the music wire hooked onto
the control arms (shown) above.  The way Dodgson does this is the music wire
is actually bent around a brass eyelet (probably purchased from a notions
store or salvaged from the shoelace eyelets from some old boots).

So to put this all together you have to sorta do things in reverse order from
my description.  That is you better put the music wire on the 90 degree arms
and flatten the end before you put the arms in the fuselage.

You also have to put the control horn on the brass center section and place
it in the fuselage before you slide the 90 degree arms into the fuselage.
Don't forget the two extra bushings here.  They slide the control horn off
the center section temporarily till after you solder it.  Just before
you solder - you have to mount wings and make sure everything is aligned.

After you solder the center section then epoxy the brass bushings in place
that hold the flap control arms.

Did I make it more complicated or less?

Bye          --+--
Kay R. Fisher  |
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1024.6Dodgson flap linkage correctionsKAY::FISHERStop and smell the balsa.Tue Jan 29 1991 08:5918
Corrections already...

>You also have to put the control horn on the brass center section and place
>it in the fuselage before you slide the 90 degree arms into the fuselage.
>Don't forget the two extra bushings here.  They slide the control horn off
                                            ^^^^ Then

>the center section temporarily till after you solder it.  Just before
>you solder - you have to mount wings and make sure everything is aligned.

Warning - take the wings and everything else that you don't want to burn
out now when you solder.  

Bye          --+--
Kay R. Fisher  |
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1024.7Dawn breaks over MarbleheadZENDIA::REITHJim Reith DTN 226-6102 - LTN2-1/F02Tue Jan 29 1991 09:1011
    A picture AND a 1000 words!
    
    Now I understand (if Terry concurs with your description)
    
    I was picturing something similar to standard aileron linkage with the
    hinge line rods split. This makes perfect sense and I think I can even
    build it ;^)
    
    Your showing your hinge line on top rather than on the bottom? Are these
    spoilers rather than flaps in your setup (pop up rather than extend
    below?)
1024.8Obscene flap artNAMBE::TTOMBAUGH20/20 Vision&amp;walkin&#039;round blindTue Jan 29 1991 09:5414
    Kay's pictures are exactly what I meant.
    Thin CA can be used to hold the rod in the tube, and avoid the solder
    danger. In fact it must be used in one piece fuselages where no
    top access is possible, ie, Sealy designs. Also a small piece of
    tube can be CA'ed on the rear of the coiled wire to prevent it falling
    off the rod, rather than whacking a flat on it. And lastly, a large
    paper clip can be used rather than music wire, to coil around the
    rod. Much easier to bend coils in.
    Oh yes, the drive tube in the flap needn't be right at the trailing
    edge. By moving it forward into the thicker part of the flap, you
    gain some strength. This is the area that will break first if the
    flaps are able to drag on the ground in the full down position.
    
    Terry
1024.9Thanks for the valuable techniqueZENDIA::REITHJim Reith DTN 226-6102 - LTN2-1/F02Tue Jan 29 1991 10:2312
    I had expected that the tubes in the flaps wanted to have a little more
    meat around them. I'm considering using nylon tubes in the flaps and
    slipped over the rods to avoid electrical (scrape scrape) noise. The
    eyelets can be found in C/L leadout sets which is also a good source of
    heavy braided cable for pull-pull rudders. Some of the old parts
    packages used to have an eyelet where they hung on the wall (Perfect?)
    that worked well.
    
    I must say that I appreciate Kay's effort to put the 150+ lines into
    the file to share since he and I will be flying at lunchtime today.
    
    This series of notes might be easier found if moved to the FLAPS topic
1024.10Dodgson Flap linkage correctionKAY::FISHERStop and smell the balsa.Tue Jan 29 1991 14:5710
>    Your showing your hinge line on top rather than on the bottom? Are these
>    spoilers rather than flaps in your setup (pop up rather than extend
>    below?)

You caught a mistake - they should have been hinged at the bottom.

Bye          --+--
Kay R. Fisher  |
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