Conference vmszoo::rc

Hi Marc!

Welcome to the world of R/C flying!

>> o Before I cover the model could someone take a look at it to check it out 
>>	to make sure it's ~"OK"?

I'd be glad to look it over for you.  Send me mail (ROCK::MINER) and we
can arrange a time and place to meet.

>> o Eventually I will _need_ an instructor.  If there is _anyone_ willing to 
>>	help *another* rookie get off the ground _please_ let me know!

I'm glad to see that you have the wisdom to ask for an instructor.  It
*DOES* mean the difference between learning to FLY and learning to
CRASH!!  I'm an instructor at the CMRCM field and would be glad to help
you out.  Other "DECies" that are instructors there are Charlie Watt and
Bill Lewis.  (Although Bill might be in Germany now???)

I'm not much help on some of the finer points of your engine questions,
so I'm going to leave most of your engine questions the the experts.  As
far as break-in goes, I'd recommend you just follow the instructions
that come with it.  You do not need to mix anything in with the
off-the-shelf fuel.  It already contains the necessary oil.

>> o Also, can anyone please provide any starting or break-in tips.  I don't 
>>	think I fully understand running "lean" vs "rich" vs. fast RPMs vs. 
>>	low RPMS.  Should it be broken-in at low RPMS while running rich?  
>>	Since the engine has never been run how do I know the _relative_ 
>>	setting of the needle valve?  I don't want to fiddle with the 
>>	_factory_ settings - do I???

I can help you out here a little.  It's a good idea to try to start it
with the factory settings, but it's very likely that it will be required
to adjust the settings to get the proper RICH setting for break-in.
There are a lot of factors that effect the needle valve setting.  Some
of these are: air temperature and humidity, brand and type of fuel, and
prop size.  That is why the factory setting can't possibly always be
correct.

                       _____
                      |     \
                      |      \                          Silent POWER!
      _        ___________    _________   |            Happy Landings!
     | \      |           |  |         |  |
     |--------|-  SANYO  + ]-|  ASTRO  |--|              - Dan Miner
     |_/      |___________|  |_________|  |
                      |       /           |     " The Earth needs more OZONE,
                      |      /                       not Caster Oil!! "    
                      |_____/

A very big welcome to the hobby -- I would guess that either
you've done your homework or made a lucky buy because you've got
the best combination on the market.  Even I, veteran of many
wonderful crashes, cannot bash that baby.

On the muffler -- OS does make an adapter to the stock muffler
that is supposed to quiet it down.  I've not tried it, though I
will one of these days.  Be careful on the power.  I've found
that the engine is only marginal, especially while its running
in, for that plane.

Also, while building it be sure to keep the tail as light as
possible since the OS will require some nose weight to balance. 
I substituted built up tail surfaces as in rubber model type for
the solid surfaces and still require an ounce or two to balance
-- others have required 5 or more ounces.

>I'm just starting out in RC and am building my first plane.  Since I'm a 
>*beginner* I've decided on a PT40 with an OS.40FP ABC and Airtronics 6ch 
>FM.  (from Tower)  I've gotten my AMA license and have joined the CMRCM so 
>that I can watch the _real_ flyers at lunch time!  (work in Marlboro, MA - 
>live in RI)

I gotta say Marc - you really did your home work.  This note should serve
as a good example for every beginner.  Your choice of starting equipment
is excellent.  There are several good trainers and one could argue the
merits of each but I notice you also watched our DEC video on "How to
build and fly a PT40".  Most would agree there is not a better engine
for the money than the OS 40FP and your Airtronics 6 channel has plenty
of features for future growth in the hobby.  Joining the AMA and CMRCM
ahead of time and looking for an instructor - WOW.  

If you ever crash a plane I'll be surprised because I just can't imagine
anyone being more prepared.  So many of us ask for advice then don't
follow it (Sound familiar guys?).

Too bad we didn't have the DECRCM meeting last Tuesday - you could have
brought your PT40 in for show and tell.  Maybe next month.

My only advice is about the engine break in.  It sounds like you have
never fiddled with one of these before so the best thing to do is
after it is ready to run in the airplane (or if you build a test stand)
bring it in to work and ask someone from this notes file to spend a lunch
hour at some local field with you.  If you brought it to CMRCM at
lunch time I'm sure the HTA guys would be glad to show you the ropes.

I wouldn't worry too much about the exhaust residue on the Aircraft.
If covered properly it should last a long time and no matter how hard
you try to divert your exhaust you will still have to bring and use
cleaning supplies on your plane after every flying session.  Hey - I've
had to wash a glider because some guy's Dog kept chasing it down and 
drooling all over it!

Good luck Marc - I think we'll be hearing more from you for a long time.

Bye          --+--
Kay R. Fisher  |
---------------O---------------
################################################################################

    Marc,
    
    As Kay says in .-1, exhaust residue on the airplane is relatively
    harmless, though messy.  Take Kay's advice and don't worry about it;
    include a bottle of 409 (or whatever) and a roll of paper towels in
    yer' field gear and you've got it covered.
    
    I guarantee you trying to run a tube any length more than an inch or so
    off the end of the muffler _WILL_ cause naught but grief, the last
    thing you need as a beginner.  I speak from experience as I once tried
    to do almost exactly what you suggest on an Aeromaster bipe and the
    engine's performance went right in the dumper due to the increased back
    pressure created by the tube.  Tuned pipes accomplish what yer' after
    to a certain degree but that's a subject best left 'til well _after_
    you've learned the ropes and gotten some experience under yer' belt.
						 __
				|      |        / |\	   	       
      	         \|/		|______|__(o/--/  | \	   	       
      | |        00	       <|  ~~~  ____ 04 ---- | --------------------
    |_|_|        (O>o		|\)____/___|\_____|_/	   Adios amigos, Al
      |     \__(O_\_	        |	  |___/	 o	   (The Desert Rat)

Marc, you sure don't lack enthusiasm.

On the PT tail feathers.  Probably not a good idea to put holes
in them, as it weakens the structure greatly. The tail will take
a surprising amount of "hits" while you're learning to fly.  I'd
cut/carve an airfoil or elongated diamond shape into them
instead.  Leave the leading edge about 1/8" or slightly less
thick and put the high point at about 30% of the chord.  This
goes for both the fin and stablizer.

On the air cleaner.  I had one on my OS but removed it when I
started having engine problems.  I have the engine problems
straightened out now (knock on wood) and will put the air cleaner
back on soon (as soon as I find it!).

Please see the Engine questions topic(s) for a discussion of glow
plugs -- I've been using a K&B plug since they were were
recommended there and have been having good engine runs.  

I had problems with an older Perry carb with an air cleaner. I got a different 
muffler and the pressure bypassed the needle valve. During this discussion it 
was noted that the air cleaner CAN choke the intake slightly and richen your 
mixture. In my case that wasn't my only problem but it is something to consider.


I wasn't chastising you, it was Kay who "missed" the meeting and claimed it 
wasn't held ;^)

    Re: .9, Marc,
    
    Generally, air-cleaners are of most benefit on engines used in surface
    vehicles (e.g. cars) where dirt levels are high.  On aircraft, unless
    flying from _very_ dirty/dusty fields, their usefulness is questionable
    and they _DO_ rob rpm.  Even flying from a dirt field as I do, I use no
    air cleaner (tried them years ago and didn't like 'em...too much hassle
    for the little benefit they provide; makes it difficult or impossible to
    choke the engine, etc.).  I _*DO*_, however, keep the engine, i.e. carb
    intake, covered at ALL times when the engine is not in use.  The
    muffler suffices to protect the exhaust port from blowing dirt/dust.
    
    As to crashing, take my word for it, the engine won't continue running
    long enough after impact to ingest enough dirt to cause any harm.  The
    IMPACT itself is the BIG concern.  Careful disassembly and cleaning
    will completely remove any dirt which may've found it's way in.
    
    As you'll learn the more you read into this file, I'm a strong advocate
    of simplicity and abhor "attachments" that may potentially cause more
    trouble than they prevent.  I especially dislike and recommend against
    almost ANY gizmo that's intended to be hung on the engine where it can
    shake loose into the prop or cause myriad other difugleties...among
    these most hated accoutrements are fuel-pumps, air cleaners, CD
    electronic ignitions, snap-on plastic spinners and, IMHO, probably the 
    biggest rip-off "attachment" ever foisted upon the modeling public, the 
    [so called] 4-cycle engine.  But, that's another subject I'll avoid
    getting off on again....... 
						 __
				|      |        / |\	   	       
      	         \|/		|______|__(o/--/  | \	   	       
      | |        00	       <|  ~~~  ____ 04 ---- | --------------------
    |_|_|        (O>o		|\)____/___|\_____|_/	   Adios amigos, Al
      |     \__(O_\_	        |	  |___/	 o	   (The Desert Rat)