| T.R | Title | User | Personal
Name | Date | Lines |
|---|
| 970.18 | a Scooter II just for Phoenix | ROCK::MINER | Electric = No more glow-glop | Tue Nov 15 1988 19:31 | 23 |
| Hey Al:
FYI - I've ordered a Skooter II (by Flite Line ?) for flying in
Phoenix at Christmas time. I figured for $25. I couldn't go wrong
with an (almost) prebuild plane. I'll just build and sand the fuse,
sheet the foam wings, then cover everything and ship it UPS to
Phoenix. When I get there, I'll glue on the tail feathers, install
a radio and engine, and I'll be ready to fly at Pucker Brush
International Airport with y'all!!
When I leave, I'll take out the engine and radio and leave the
Skooter II in AZ for next time!! (whenever that is...)
_____
| \
| \ Silent POWER!
_ ___________ _________ | Happy Landings!
| \ | | | | |
|--------|- SANYO + ]-| ASTRO |--| - Dan Miner
|_/ |___________| |_________| |
| / | " The Earth needs more OZONE,
| / not Caster Oil!! "
|_____/
|
| 970.10 | SKOOTAH TOO | CURIE::ANKER | Anker Berg-Sonne | Fri Mar 31 1989 14:02 | 21 |
| The Scooter II pylon races at the CRRC are really picking
up again. Unfortunately, there is a severe shortage of Scooter
II kits from the manufacturer, so the CRRC board has decided to
do the membership a big favor and manufacture a new plane kit,
called the SKOOTAH TOO, as long as the shortage is acute. These
will be made available to the CRRC membership at cost (materials,
beer, pizza) which will be close to $20 a piece. The first run
will be 12 kits and be available in just over a week. About 4 of
them are still available, so those of you that are interested in
pylon racing have an opportunity to get into it.
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O
Hang in there! o_|_
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Anker \_|_/
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| 970.1 | wing construction suggestions | SA1794::TENEROWICZT | | Wed Apr 19 1989 08:17 | 24 |
| Dan, First off this is a throw away plane so don'r go overboard.
I find that glueing the leading edge/training edge of before
sheeting is a pain. I'd go with the sheeting(epoxied on),trim
,block sand the edged and then install the leading/trailing edges.
Get yourself a piece of pine board 3/4"x3"x18'. Cut a belt piece
of sanding paper at the seam and lay it out. Glue this paper to
the piece of pine. What your making is a big sanding block. It will
help in getting the trimmed edges flat.
What size ebgine are you guys running?
If it's smaller than a .40 then I'd suggest an alternative. Get
eight pieces of carbon fiber strip .007 x 1/4"x36". Cross laminate
these in an "X" on the top and bottom of each foam core from leading
edge to training edge. Then sheet the wing with only leading/trailing
edge sheeting,centersection and cap strips. 1/16"wing tip caps,3/16"
trailing edge and 3/8" leading edge stock. Should cut wing weight
by 25%.Only this allows you to get the wing done using only six
sheets of 1/16x3x36"balsa. 1/16x3x25 leading edge sheeting,1/16x1.5x25
trailing edge sheeting.
Tom
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| 970.2 | good suggestion, illegal result | CURIE::ANKER | Anker Berg-Sonne | Wed Apr 19 1989 12:07 | 21 |
| Re:< Note 970.1 by SA1794::TENEROWICZT >
Tom,
Your advice is good, butt will result in an illegal
Scooter. The wing MUST have a minimum thickness, which is foam
plus two pieces of sheeting. We are running a one-class
competition and the rules are based on minimum dimensions and
weight. (Don't worry about the weight Dan)
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| | o \
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O
Hang in there! o_|_
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Anker \_|_/
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| 970.3 | spinner suggestions | SA1794::TENEROWICZT | | Wed Apr 19 1989 13:41 | 16 |
| Ya, measuring minimum thickness would ge a little tricky. It would
depend on where on the wing to measured...
A hint, For Q500 racers (type) frontal is of minimal importance.
If your allowed to run a spinner get a FAI style spinner. One with
a blunted round nose section. they actually penetrate the air better
than pointy spinners for the speeds our planes travel. Also if the
firewall is 2"square a 1.5-1.75" sipiiner is sufficient to direct
the air around the fuse and not onto the firewall.
Gee this would be a good time for John Chadd to jump in and add
some helpful hints on designingto go fast.
Tom
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| 970.7 | Yes, use spider mount... | ROCK::MINER | Electric = No more glow-glop | Thu Apr 20 1989 18:21 | 3 |
| The ones I've seen usually use the spider mount.
- Dan M.
|
| 970.8 | A spider here and there.... | PTOMV4::MATSCHERZ | | Thu Apr 20 1989 23:42 | 8 |
| Dan,
I used the spider mount on the Windy swamp boat I brought to the
meeting. It works well and looks nice. The spider mount was the
reason I bought the K&B engine instead of the Enya.
Steve M in the Pitts...
PS I am trying to decide on the next plane project. Got any ideas?
|
| 970.11 | Lots of "kits" available | CURIE::ANKER | Anker Berg-Sonne | Mon Apr 24 1989 17:10 | 17 |
| Re:< Note 970.0 by THOTH::SNOW >
Last time I checked the CRRC had 3 "complete" kits, and
has materials for 12 more. I also saw that Bill's Hobby Barn has
two K&B .20 engines in stock. (Charlie - I haven't forgotten
your second kit).
_
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| | o \
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Hang in there! o_|_
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Anker \_|_/
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| 970.14 | K&B 20 crankcase leaks | PTOMV4::MATSCHERZ | | Thu Apr 27 1989 17:42 | 11 |
| re .13
Dan,
When I had the Boat at the meeting, I said that with my K&B 20
they had given me a spare o-ring that went between the mounting
plate and the crankcase housing. Did you get a spare with your engine
as well?
You know, you were the one that told me to put RTV on my
K&B 20 to ensure I didn't get any leaks!
Steve M in the Pitts......
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| 970.16 | Head and cylinder | CURIE::ANKER | Anker Berg-Sonne | Fri Apr 28 1989 10:36 | 15 |
| Re:< Note 970.13 by THOTH::SNOW >
The red O-ring goes between the head and the cylinder.
There's a recess in the head that it fits into.
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| | o \
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O
Hang in there! o_|_
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Anker \_|_/
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| 970.17 | K&B O-ring | CLOSUS::TAVARES | John -- Stay low, keep moving | Fri Apr 28 1989 11:17 | 19 |
| Anker: on my .20 that O-ring is white. I think the red one goes
at the back of the case when you're using the spider mount -- I
don't recall getting one with my engine. To come to think of it
you might be right; that could be a spare head ring, since that's
been the place I've had the most trouble.
Dan, the Sportster takes a lot longer to break in than that!
Mine needed closer to an hour, maybe more before it started
running cool.
BTW -- thanks for all that info on the engine a few weeks back.
I had previously put gasket compound on all joints -- you
remember I commented that it did not seem to stand up to the
alcohol fuel. I put a couple of tanks through it, even extended
the engine run by filling the tank while it was running and it
behaved itself. Took quite a while to get the idle and high
speed mixture controls right. They're very touchy -- K&B
should've used the idle air adjustment like OS does; its a lot
better.
|
| 970.19 | get a Scooter | 7983::WALTER | | Thu Apr 26 1990 14:02 | 40 |
| Re: .198 Dave Hughes need for a new .20 size plane...
I don't know if CRRC still has the scooter kits, but if they do, buy one!
I finally flew my scooter this weekend and I couldn't have been more pleased.
I was all prepared for a real handful, what with reports of fast response,
small size (tough to see), and difficult landings, not to mention nose-overs
on takeoff. Instead, what I was confronted with was a beautiful flying airplane!
Takeoffs were straight and true (no tail wheel, just a skid), the plane went
exactly where I wanted it to go, and landings were a snap. It was a real
pleasant change from the Kadet. However, I will attest to a tendency to nose
over, but I think that's mainly due to my landing gear placement; it needs to
be farther forward.
And as long as I'm on the subject, a comment on the K&B .20 that pulls the
plane. It's a brand new engine, which I ran slobbering rich for one tank on
the ground. I initially had difficulties with it during breakin keeping fuel
in the inlet hose, and just keeping it running. Not to mention it leaked fuel
from virtually every possible spot. On advice from a CRRC'er, I did the
following 3 things:
1. I took apart the engine and used blue RTV on every metal to metal
joint. I also noticed that there were voids in the casting inside
the carb; poor workmanship.
2. Instead of having the fuel exit the fuse out the top, I drilled holes
in the firewall to give a smaller distance to the carb. It also
seemed to stop the fuel from sucking back into the tank problem.
3. I put a piece of fuel tubing around the needle valve screw to stop
airleaks.
The result: the engine ran beautifully! It only gave me one dead stick landing,
and after richening it up a few clicks, ran like a charm. I was amazed! It's
also quite powerful; the CRRC'er felt it could be very competative for racing as
is.
I'm sold on it.
Dave
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| 970.20 | make your own Scooter from templates | CURIE::ANKER | Anker Berg-Sonne | Fri Apr 27 1990 14:31 | 9 |
| Re: <<< Note 929.204 by 7983::WALTER >>>
Dave,
We don't have any kits, but we have some templates that
allow you to cut your own. Its incredibly simple. In addition,
we will cut your wing cores for you!
Anker
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