Conference vmszoo::rc

    Kay, One thing I have seen on a few cubs in the ares is a safety
    securing system that saves the strut. From what I've seen they drill
    into the wood of the strit and insert a piece of rubber tube. Then
    a spade try bolt with a hole in it is pushed into the tubing. The
    spade end is bent to fit to the fuse attachment. What they get is
    a strut that is shock mounted from the fuse and will pull out if
    struck. They use the same attachment method on the wing.
    
    
    Tom

    Kay,
    
    On the ol' Yeller' Peril, the interplane struts are attached as
    follows:
    
    Goldberg nylon hatch fastener brackets are buried in the wing surfaces
    with only the "keyhole" cutout protruding above the surface.  Bicycle
    spokes are buried in both ends of the struts with an immediate
    90-degree bend where the spoke exits the strut...the flared end
    of the spoke is approx 1/16" (or the width of the nylon bracket)
    from the bend.
    
    To install the strut, you simply snap the spoke ends into the brackets
    of both upper and lower surfaces.  Yes, these break on occasion
    but, working carefully with a Dremel tool and a router bit, they
    are easy to dig out and replace.  Frankly, I'd rather the brackets
    break under stress than stay rigidly attached and tear up the wing
    structure.
    
    This is kinda' tough to describe...hope I did it well enough for
    you to remember how it looked on the Peril. 

      |
      | |      00	 Adios,      Al
    |_|_|      ( >o
      |    Z__(O_\_	(The Desert Rat)

re .-2 Tom - you idea sounds very interesting but I can't really figure
	out exactly what your saying - one picture is worth a 1000 words.
	Could you describe in detail please.

re .-1 Al    
>    Goldberg nylon hatch fastener brackets are buried in the wing surfaces
>    with only the "keyhole" cutout protruding above the surface.  Bicycle

There Goldberg nylon hatch fasteners are only available as 90 degree bends
right?

>    spokes are buried in both ends of the struts with an immediate
>    90-degree bend where the spoke exits the strut...the flared end
>    of the spoke is approx 1/16" (or the width of the nylon bracket)
>    from the bend.

See - I have never changed a Bicycle spoke - do they come stock with
90 degree bends?  Are all bicycle spokes the same diameter?

There is no scheme here for adjustment - right?

============================================================
Now about flying wires...
I was planning on installing little "dress maker" hooks from
the material section of K-Mart.  Then attaching this elastic
stringy stretchy chrome stuff (what is it called?) that they
sell in the material section.  Chrome rubber bands (sort of).

What do others do?

    Kay,
    	You can buy scale flying wire material and all of the connectors
    that you will need from Proctor.  Might be more scale like?
    
    
    Looking at a strut from the butt end they drill a hole into the
    strut and insert a small piece of tubing. THe spade bolt is then
    pushed/threaded into the tubing. A spade bolt is manufactured
    as a bolt/threaded with the head end flattened and a hole drilled
    into the flattened end. I can be bent to fit against a mounting
    tab.
    
    
    Tom

>>    Goldberg nylon hatch fastener brackets are buried in the wing surfaces
>>    with only the "keyhole" cutout protruding above the surface.  Bicycle

>There Goldberg nylon hatch fasteners are only available as 90 degree bends
>right?

*  The hatch fastener brackets from Goldberg come in several styles.  The kind 
I use are totally flat...I trim them to desired length before use.

>>    spokes are buried in both ends of the struts with an immediate
>>    90-degree bend where the spoke exits the strut...the flared end
>>    of the spoke is approx 1/16" (or the width of the nylon bracket)
>>    from the bend.

>See - I have never changed a Bicycle spoke - do they come stock with
>90 degree bends?  Are all bicycle spokes the same diameter?

*  Yep, the spokes come with the flared end pre-bent to 90-degrees.  Yep again,
standard bicycle spokes are pretty much identical except for special purpose 
racing spokes, etc.

>There is no scheme here for adjustment - right?

*  Correct, no provision was made for adjustment though it shouldn't be too dif-
ficult to thread the spoke into the strut instead of epoxying it so it could be
adjusted for length kinda' like a clevis.  (This might require threading the 
spoke shaft as it's only threaded on the end opposite the flare and, at the 
length we're talking about, no threads would exist.  However, spokes are made
from relatively soft wire so threading them by hand with an appropriately sized
die should present no problem.)

>Now about flying wires...

*  Can't help you much here as I've never fooled with wires but what you suggest
sounds reasonable...I've seen it done this way before and it appears to be one of
the simplest ways.

    Kay
    I assume the rigging is meant to be non-functional! These methods
    may not work otherwise.
    There is a book called Scale Model Aircraft by Gordon Whitehead
    which gives excellent examples for rigging .25 to .60 size biplanes.
     It is a British book, so you may not be able to obtain it. If you
    can wait for company mail from Australia, mail me your address and
    I'll copy some of the relevant parts for you.
    
    
    Tony
    

    While I'm thinking of this, I worked out a non-scale way for my
    Lazy Ace a while ago. I made the N struts out of 1/32 ply with balsa
    on each side that was sanded to shape. The struts are attached
    permanently to the upper wing with large hinges. The bottom of each
    strut has a short piece of 1/8 music wire glued through it,
    horizontally. This goes through a hole in a small piece of aluminium
    (sorry, aluminum for some of you!) angle that is screwed to the
    lower wing. A rubber band is looped around the bottom to hold it
    in place. Strictly for non-functional use and probably not pretty
    enough for scale but it looks effective in flight and it is FAST
    to rig. No flying wires.
    
    Clear?
    
    Tony
    

>    While I'm thinking of this, I worked out a non-scale way for my
>    Lazy Ace a while ago. I made the N struts out of 1/32 ply with balsa
>    on each side that was sanded to shape. The struts are attached
>    permanently to the upper wing with large hinges. The bottom of each
>    strut has a short piece of 1/8 music wire glued through it,
>    horizontally. This goes through a hole in a small piece of aluminium
>    (sorry, aluminum for some of you!) angle that is screwed to the
>    lower wing. A rubber band is looped around the bottom to hold it
>    in place. Strictly for non-functional use and probably not pretty
>    enough for scale but it looks effective in flight and it is FAST
>    to rig. No flying wires.
>    
>    Clear?
    
Tony - the hinge part is clear - I'm surprised that you didn't use hinges
on the bottom also and just insert a hinge pin to install/remove the struts.

Not clear which way the 1/8 inch wire is facing - it is horizontal but is it
facing for and aft or port-starboard?

Al - here is the dumb question of the week.  I found the Goldberg hold-down
brackets in the tower catalog and there is indeed 2 types.  90 degree and
flat.  I called my local hobby shop and intend to pick some up tonight.

The question is - which direction did you face the gap in the bracket?
Forward or Aft?

Bye          --+--
Kay R. Fisher  |
---------------O---------------
================================================================================


    

    Kay, 
    
    The gaps face forward on the Yeller Peril but I doubt it matters
    much which way they're installed.    

      |
      | |      00	 Adios,      Al
    |_|_|      ( >o
      |    Z__(O_\_	(The Desert Rat)

    Kay
    
    You're right, having hinges on the bottom would probably work very
    well.
    
    The pieces of music wire lie spanwise.
    
    Tony