| T.R | Title | User | Personal
Name | Date | Lines |
|---|
| 782.1 | zapping | LEDS::LEWIS | | Wed Nov 30 1988 09:53 | 9 |
|
For zapping I would recommend you charge a big cap, say 10,000 uF,
to a few volts and use the cap to zap the battery. Increase the
voltage in small steps and rezap until the short is cleared. Seems
like this would help avoid overzapping and the resulting open circuit.
I assume Milwaukee wants a small fortune for a replacement battery?
Bill
|
| 782.2 | Nicad source - MR NICAD | WRASSE::FRIEDRICHS | Where's the snow?? | Wed Nov 30 1988 11:33 | 30 |
|
I found this the other day in another notes file... Might be a
good general source for all of our nicads!
enjoy,
jeff
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Note 93.15 NiCad questions 15 of 23
CHFV03::SCHULDT "Larry Schuldt - WA9TAH" 14 lines 15-JUL-1987 11:56
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I entered this info in another note on a dead cordless phone, but
I'll add it here, too. At the Dayton Hamvention this year there
was an exhibitor calling himself Mr. Nicad. I bought a couple of
his pre-built packs for a hand-held transceiver to replace the original
battery pack which had a couple dead cells. Worked great! He had
all sorts of other stuff and I think could match just about anything.
Mr. Nicad
E. H. Yost and Co.
7344 Tetiva Rd.
Fox City, WI 53583
(608) 643-3194
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| 782.3 | Just hoping for a box of loose cells... | CTHULU::YERAZUNIS | I can add, test, and branch; therefore I am. | Fri Dec 02 1988 11:22 | 13 |
| The Spag's price for the pack is $40; I went for it since there
didn't seem to be much response here. Besides, now I have two packs
(or rather, I _will_ have two packs when I re-cell this one) and
will be able to swap them back and forth to minimize heat loading.
Oh well... guess it's time to call Tower and get a Royal pack for
parts... :-(
I wonder if I can chuck a starter cone in the drill and use it as
an engine starter? Is 600 RPM and infinite torque enough to kick
over a glow-engine? :-)
-Bill
|
| 782.4 | In case you weren't kidding... | LEDS::LEWIS | | Fri Dec 02 1988 13:14 | 7 |
|
You probably could use a cordless drill to start the smaller engines
but I doubt if they have anywhere near the startup torque of a
12v electric starter. Worth a try if you want to save some money
though!
Bill
|
| 782.7 | Sounds good to me! | CTHULU::YERAZUNIS | Why are so few of us left healthy, active, and without personali | Fri Dec 02 1988 17:20 | 19 |
| Fourteen bucks, eh? Sounds good. I'll try it... The Milwaukee
plastic casing is in fine shape (it isn't glued together, it bolts
together. All I need is the cells.
-----
Don't worry about the torque. As long as 600 RPM's is enough, it'll
put out enough torque that you _cannot_ restrain the chuck (a full-size
jacobs chuck) with your hand. It will strip out 2" drywall screws,
strip the wood that is, unless you dial the screwdriving clutch
down. The clutch can be set to "lock" for drilling... or maybe
for cranking...:-)
Like I said, this isn't one of those horrid Taiwanese "power
screwdrivers", it's a Milwaukee heavy duty 3/8 commercial unit.
Thanks all. I'll try to hit BJ's soon.
-Bill
|
| 782.8 | It might be a bit slow | LEDS::WATT | | Sun Dec 04 1988 21:06 | 5 |
| I think that 600 RPM might be too slow to be an effective starter.
The regular commercial ones turn over 2000 rpm, I'm sure. Your
drill might start the bigger motors, but I don't know how well it
would work on a 40 or smaller one. Try it. You'll have to buy
or make a rubber cone to engage the spinner.
|
| 782.10 | Thumbs down on "Condor" 7.2V 1400mAH packs. | CTHULU::YERAZUNIS | I don't want to rule the Universe, I just want to see it. | Mon Dec 05 1988 18:31 | 20 |
|
Well, I re-celled the pack over the weekend with cells from a $14.00
"B.J.'s Wholesale Club" (trade name "Condor") 7.2v 1400 mAH RC car
pack...
It works. Not great. I'd say that the cells are about 60% as
powerful as the brand-name Milwaukee cells. The cells averaged
being able to put 6 amps (per cell) at a dead short into my ammeter.
The one good cell in the old Milwaukee pack was able to put out
over 12 amps (it off-scaled, don't know by how much. I wear safety
glasses when I check this, by the way. :-) ) !
The re-celled pack also heats up much more than the old Milwaukee
pack during charge (higher internal cell impedance?)
Oh well. Next time I'll go for the good Sanyo or G.E. Gold-top
cells.
Don't bother with "Condor" 7.2v racing packs for any sort of serious
use. They aren't worth it compared to Sanyo or even Tamiya packs.
|
| 782.11 | Sullivan drive cone measurements | GUSHER::RYDER | | Tue Dec 13 1988 12:29 | 13 |
| Prompted by notes 782.3 to 782.9 about possibly using an electric drill
to drive a starter cone, I examined a new Sullivan starter with the
aluminum "cone". Anyone with access to a lathe can easily make their
own hardware and then buy the rubber inserts, etc.
The cone is a cylinder --- inside diameter 1 7/16 inches, depth 7/8ths.
The shaft is 5/16ths, stepped down to an ordinary 1/4-20 right hand
thread. The cone screws on this shaft and is secured by a jam nut.
I hope Bill reports on his success with the drill. Besides the
speed and torque issues, the direction of rotation will tend to
loosen the drill chuck.
|