Conference vmszoo::rc

    First, although you describe a "G" series connector, the Futaba
    MC112B is a "J" series controller - the MC12B is a 'G" series
    controller.  Second, the MC12B/112B is designed to operate within
    the 7.2/8.4 volt range (100A continuous/400A surge) - if the 
    controller did indeed burn up, send it back to Futaba - they are 
    an outstanding consumer oriented company and will probably replace 
    your speed controller free - something I've seen done several times!
    
    FUTABA CORPORATION of America, ATTN: Service Dept, 555 W Victoria
    Street, Compton, CA 90220
    
    The Novak speed controllers have developed a good reputation in
    a short time - they market essentially 3 different models from the
    top unit NESC1X - $220.00 list, the NESC1 Deluxe - $180.00 list,
    to the NESC4 Economy - $99.00 list (which can be had mail order
    at about $30.00 less).  The NESC4 is able to work with 4 to 10 cell
    packs and operates at 120A continous.  Since the Novak controllers
    are marketed primarly as "race" hardware, they do not have reverse,
    which is a NO NO in racing anyway.  I'll verify that and if it's
    different, I'll get back to you.
    
    Before replacing the controller, you should closely examine your
    entire electrical circuit - motor and wiring and battery - for any
    damage which may have contributed to the "burning out" of your speed
    controller - or which may have resulted from the "burning out".
    A good way to check the battery is to quick-charge it - after the
    initial draw of 4.5-5 amps, if it fails to drop after 3/5 min of
    charge, then there is probably a damaged/shorted cell.
    
    Hope this helps...

    
    <follow-up to .2>
    
    My information is that NO Novak speed controller has reverse - all
    models are targeted at racing enthusiasts.  I am also told that
    when used in off-road racing, the controller requries an optional
    heat-sink (retails for $14.00)
    
    

    Dan,
    	I have heard of several Futaba 112 series speed controls blowing
    up.  The story I heard was that Futaba got a bad bunch of mosfets.
    They most likely will replace it for you, but if you have to buy
    a new one, I would stay away from the Futaba due to poor reliability.
    Ed Acciardi, my expert source on the subject went through at least
    two of them before switching brands.
    
    Charlie
    

    As an owner/user of 3 112Bs, the first one being over 12 months
    old and one of the first in the UK (we reviewed it for a magazine)
    my experience is that it is one of the most reliable controllers
    I have ever had.  Price in the UK is �49.95 list and compares
    favourably with others.  I accept that 3 is not a very representative
    sample so I just phoned my friend at the local shop.  Of the top
    of his head he thinks he has sold in excess of 200, 12 the last
    month (not a very busy time of year).  Of these about 8 have failed
    due to abuse (shorting the motor connectors or reversing the cell
    connectors) and maybe 2 through pure failure.  Experience at club
    level is that all other makes of speed controller fail from time
    to time, usually due to heat build up.  Over the years I have seen
    some very poor quality electrical connections in cars, which is
    the usual cause of controller failure.  So from these figures I
    would conclude that the 112B is reliable with about 1% failure rate,
    compared with near 100% for the competition.  Most UK suppliers
    of controllers advertise the repair cost as well as the purchase
    cost.  Due to the high relative cost of Novak equipment it is not
    widely used, so I cannot comment.  My overall experience is that
    the better the driver the more reliable the controller (they do
    not hit solid objects head on at high speed and cause motors to
    pass stall current while trying to push the solid object out of
    the way).  Novak equipment is used by experts while 112Bs is used
    by all levels.
    
    As an aside our local club has a rule that says all drivers under
    14 years should be accompanied by an adult due to dangers of electrics
    among other things.  Re marshals, we occasionally run races with
    no marshals.  This has a surprising effect on driving skill and
    serves to remind the drivers that primary responsibility for keeping
    their car on the track rests with their fingers.  Having said that
    I would never race off road without reverse.  Unlike ROAR (I believe),
    BRCA allows reverse, but not into the path of other cars.  It is
    the sign of a well adjusted driver to wait while several cars pass
    before rejoining a race.  The ones that forever yell marshal (usually
    before their car has got stuck, but when they realise they are on
    a bad line) are just a pain in the neck!
    
    Prost for World Champion (sorry, wrong notes file)
    
    Rob   bbk Racing
       

    I have been using an MC112B for about three months now without any
    problems. In fact, I'm pleasantly suprised that it has not died
    from the abuse and frequent use I've given it.
    
    Make sure you check that the motor hasn't been fried. I've seen
    other people blame the speed control before when it was the motor.
    
    Todd
    

    In RCM there's an ad for something with a silly name
    like Pee-Pee or PP or something.  Anyway, that is a device
    that cuts off power to the motor so you will always have
    enough juice left to operate the radio.  I think it cuts the
    power to the motor at a certain voltage drop, I have no
    idea if it is adjustable.
    
    					Roger
    

    
    
    	AH HA !!
    
    	"Without a little PeePee your R/C car will probably
    	 run away !"
    
    	Cost  26.95 $$$$$
    	
    	Cobra international
    	Dept CA03
    	1235 Lowery Dr 
    	Norfolk, Va 23502
    	804 855-0202
    
    	Now that I review the add it sounds more like a surge supressor/
    	voltage stabilizer than what I originally thought.  Plus it
    	weighs 1.4 OZ !!  Oh well ...
    
    					Roger

    One solution I used with Tycho for a while was to pull (and tape
    off) the red lead from the speed controller to the receiver, and
    use a normal RX battery.  The red lead is the one that feeds power
    back into the rx from the built-in BEC, and if it's not connected.....
    
    To get it out, use a pin to push in the lock on the side of the
    pin and pull it out the back.  That's for the 112, with the FM
    connectors, if the 12 isn't similar and won't come off, leave enuf
    slack to repair it and just cut the silly wire.
    
    Willie