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Conference vmszoo::rc

Title:Welcome To The Radio Control Conference
Notice:dir's in 11, who's who in 4, sales in 6, auctions 19
Moderator:VMSSG::FRIEDRICHS
Created:Tue Jan 13 1987
Last Modified:Thu Jun 05 1997
Last Successful Update:Fri Jun 06 1997
Number of topics:1706
Total number of notes:27193

449.0. "questions about a first car" by JAGUAR::HARRIS () Fri Jan 29 1988 15:47

    I'm interested in getting a RC car.  I've been looking around and
    figure that I'll have to spend about :
        75 - 150 for the car
        50 - 75  for the radio and servos
        30 - 50  for battery and charger
        --------
       155 - 275 total ???
    
    I have no problem with spending the 275.00 as long as I don't end
    up with junk.  What I want is a Buggy that I can eventually race and
    I like the idea of assembling it myself.  My problem is I know nothing
    about RCing can someone(S) give me suggestions as to what I should
    be looking for as far as car, radio and battery.  The car that I
    like so far is the Tamiya Porsche 959 4wd it seems to have most
    options and I like the way it looks.  It is called an on/off road
    car, I wonder how it compares to some thing like the Fox for off
    roading?  I saw this car for 250.00 at a hobby shop but Tower has
    it for 120.00(at least in an ad).  Also how do the trigger radios
    compare to the conventional ones?  Another question I have is exactly
    what is meant by "3 Step FWD/REV" speed control?  Lastly I want to
    know if when people race do 1/10 and 1/12 cars race together?
    
    Thanks in advance
    -Bruce     
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449.1SNDCSL::SMITHWilliam P.N. (WOOKIE::) SmithSat Jan 30 1988 09:5861
    Well, I can answer a couple of those (does this mean I'm becoming
    an expert?):
    
    >    I like the idea of assembling it myself.
    
    That's good, because as far as I know, all such models are kits,
    and I imagine half of the enjoyment is derived in customising your
    vehicle.  Note, however, that you should follow the directions
    explicitly, jumping ahead caused me most of my problems.
    
    Batteries I can't help you with, I've just converted to 12 volt
    Gates cells at 2.5 amp-hours for my Clod Buster, though you need
    a rather large vehicle to carry them around.  I'm using different
    motors, though, an RS-540 type motor would probably destroy any
    gear train with those batteries.  6 Volts might give a lot of push,
    but the weight/size might still be a problem.  Check out Radio Shack's
    cellular phone batteries ($9.99 ea) if you are interested.
    
    >    what is meant by "3 Step FWD/REV" speed control?
    
    It's a rotary switch on a piece of phenolic board that is driven
    from a linkage to a servo.  Kind of a kludge, mine tends to be:
    
    	1)	barely crawling
    	2)	too slow
    	3)	too fast to control
    
    I'm currently in the market for an electronic speed control....
    
    Some other hints:
    
    	If you think you want to get bearings, get them before you assemble
    the kit.  I wanted bearings but they were unavailable, so I assembled
    the kit anyway, and I estimate it would take at least as long to
    tear it all down and put the bearings in as it did to build the
    kit in the first place.  I'm told that plastic bearings don't last
    too long, but I'll burn that bridge when I come to it.  I'm not
    too impressed with the quality (or the price) of the 4 ball bearings
    that came with the kit.....  Never seen so much play, and I need
    16 at $3 each to redo my Clod Buster.
    
    	I used a tube of Lithium grease that I had lying around and
    a couple of small paintbrushes to lubricate everything instead of
    the supplied 'ceramic grease'.  Note that every exposed surface
    with grease on it is going to pick up sand and other abrasives,
    so go easy on the lubrication of exposed parts.
    
    	Get an appropriate set of metric tools and a metric ruler, I
    wished that I had the tools and the rular came in very handy in
    telling the difference between 10 and 12 mm screws.  Make sure you
    use the right hardware at every step, if you use 12 mm where you
    should have used 10 mm, sometime later you will need the 12 and
    only have a 10.....  Be careful of overtightening!!!  I broke a
    couple of rare 6 mm ball joints and had to do some creative machining
    to finish the model.
    
    	I can't help you with painting, as I'm not using the stock body,
    but you probably want to plan ahead so the body is dry when you
    are ready for the final assembly.
    
    Willie
449.2MY VOTEAISVAX::JONEILLMon Feb 01 1988 07:273
    IF I MAY, I PERSONALY WOULD RECOMMEND TAMIYA CARS, THEY SEEM TO BE
    RATHER DURABLE, WELL BUILT, AND THEY MAKE ALOT OF REPLACMENT AND
    HOP-UP PARTS.
449.3Go rugged and good parts availabilityMDVAX1::SPOHRMon Feb 01 1988 12:289
    Get a car that you can buy parts for, as in what does your local
    hobby shop stock?  I raced an Associated RC10, parts are individually.
    As for Tamiya, they use a lot of plastic and most parts are bought
    in sets.  I can say that I never broke the chassis (its aluminum)
    and the Tamiya cars seem to have weak plastic chassis'.  I saw alot
    of front ends broken in offroad racing.
    
    
    Chris
449.4Trigger/wheel prefered hereVINO::PALMIERIMon Feb 01 1988 12:3812
Re: Trigger radios

My son has both types of radios for his cars and likes the trigger much
better.  His trigger radio is the Futaba magnum (I think) and you get more
controls to customize the operation of the trigger and the wheel.  Also,
the wheel seems to have a much better feel for steering than a joystick.

One other comment.  Unless you plan to run the car on a smooth clean
surface I would suggest not getting a car that is too low slung for it will
be scraping the bottom often.

Marty
449.51/10th scale for offroad3D::COMINSTue Feb 09 1988 08:3815
    Since you seem to be interested in off road racing I would seriosly
    recommend you don't buy a 1/12 scale car (i.e. the Tamiya 959 Porsche).
    Most of the offroad cars are 1/10 scale.  The longer/wider wheel
    base makes a big difference in off road.  Also, changing bodies
    on your car is a relatively simple thing to do.  There is an incredible
    selection of body styles from many different manufacturers.  The
    point is that if like the features of a car but don't like it's
    looks I would buy the car and get a body I like.
    
    If you are interested in racing go to your local track(s) and see
    what is popular.  You might totally change your mind on what you
    were going to buy.
    
    Todd