| Well, I can answer a couple of those (does this mean I'm becoming
an expert?):
> I like the idea of assembling it myself.
That's good, because as far as I know, all such models are kits,
and I imagine half of the enjoyment is derived in customising your
vehicle. Note, however, that you should follow the directions
explicitly, jumping ahead caused me most of my problems.
Batteries I can't help you with, I've just converted to 12 volt
Gates cells at 2.5 amp-hours for my Clod Buster, though you need
a rather large vehicle to carry them around. I'm using different
motors, though, an RS-540 type motor would probably destroy any
gear train with those batteries. 6 Volts might give a lot of push,
but the weight/size might still be a problem. Check out Radio Shack's
cellular phone batteries ($9.99 ea) if you are interested.
> what is meant by "3 Step FWD/REV" speed control?
It's a rotary switch on a piece of phenolic board that is driven
from a linkage to a servo. Kind of a kludge, mine tends to be:
1) barely crawling
2) too slow
3) too fast to control
I'm currently in the market for an electronic speed control....
Some other hints:
If you think you want to get bearings, get them before you assemble
the kit. I wanted bearings but they were unavailable, so I assembled
the kit anyway, and I estimate it would take at least as long to
tear it all down and put the bearings in as it did to build the
kit in the first place. I'm told that plastic bearings don't last
too long, but I'll burn that bridge when I come to it. I'm not
too impressed with the quality (or the price) of the 4 ball bearings
that came with the kit..... Never seen so much play, and I need
16 at $3 each to redo my Clod Buster.
I used a tube of Lithium grease that I had lying around and
a couple of small paintbrushes to lubricate everything instead of
the supplied 'ceramic grease'. Note that every exposed surface
with grease on it is going to pick up sand and other abrasives,
so go easy on the lubrication of exposed parts.
Get an appropriate set of metric tools and a metric ruler, I
wished that I had the tools and the rular came in very handy in
telling the difference between 10 and 12 mm screws. Make sure you
use the right hardware at every step, if you use 12 mm where you
should have used 10 mm, sometime later you will need the 12 and
only have a 10..... Be careful of overtightening!!! I broke a
couple of rare 6 mm ball joints and had to do some creative machining
to finish the model.
I can't help you with painting, as I'm not using the stock body,
but you probably want to plan ahead so the body is dry when you
are ready for the final assembly.
Willie
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| IF I MAY, I PERSONALY WOULD RECOMMEND TAMIYA CARS, THEY SEEM TO BE
RATHER DURABLE, WELL BUILT, AND THEY MAKE ALOT OF REPLACMENT AND
HOP-UP PARTS.
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| Get a car that you can buy parts for, as in what does your local
hobby shop stock? I raced an Associated RC10, parts are individually.
As for Tamiya, they use a lot of plastic and most parts are bought
in sets. I can say that I never broke the chassis (its aluminum)
and the Tamiya cars seem to have weak plastic chassis'. I saw alot
of front ends broken in offroad racing.
Chris
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