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Conference vmszoo::rc

Title:Welcome To The Radio Control Conference
Notice:dir's in 11, who's who in 4, sales in 6, auctions 19
Moderator:VMSSG::FRIEDRICHS
Created:Tue Jan 13 1987
Last Modified:Thu Jun 05 1997
Last Successful Update:Fri Jun 06 1997
Number of topics:1706
Total number of notes:27193

341.0. "Canopy Polish" by TALLIS::FISHER (Battery, Mags, & Gas Off!) Mon Oct 26 1987 10:49

Well - I was just going to hold down a piece of the canopy on the
Jeep with a touch of Zap-A-Gap and I shot it with Zap kicker.

Held fine - but I fogged up the canopy.  Now - I'm not going to
take the canopy apart Sooooooooo

How do I polish it up.  Do I buy one of there buffing wheels for
my electric drill?  Do they make buffing wheels for Dremel moto
tools?  What about buffing compound?  Where do you buy it and what
kind do I need?  Maybe I could just use a cloth on the drill
and no compound?  I've never done anything like this but I know
that you can shine up plastic.

              _!_      
Bye        ----O----   
Kay R. Fisher / \     

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341.1NO-NO-NO!! DON'T USE A POWER-TOOL....MAUDIB::CASEYATHE DESERT RAT RC-AV8RMon Oct 26 1987 12:1218
    Kay,
    
    DO NOT use a drill, Dremel tool or any other motorized method of
    trying to polish yer' canopy...the heat generated is more than enough
    to permanently disfigure or even melt the plastic!!  The only way
    to polish a canopy is by hand with a FINE rubbing compound...you might
    start with toothpaste; depending on the severity of the fogging,
    this might well be all you'll need to restore the clarity.  Be patient,
    it may take some time.  If toothpaste doesn't work for you, there's
    a very fine, reddish colored rubbing compound used by draftsmen
    and model-makers to polish plexiglas that works great on canopies
    and leaves absolutely NO scratches.  Call around to the local drafting
    supply houses to locate a source for this.  Good luck and let us
    know how you make out.  BTW, that's one of the "real" benefits of
    using Willhold RC-56 glue for attaching canopies/windscreens; it
    sticks like crazy, remains flexible and will not fog the plastic.
    
    Adios,	Al
341.6Tape and RC56LEDS::WATTTue Oct 27 1987 09:3518
    When glueing canopes, I avoid CYA glues totally because they can
    run and ruin the inside of the canope.  They do attack the plastic
    as well before setting.  Any attempt to use kicker will really
    add to the mess.  I have been having good luck using tape to hold
    the canope in place while using RC56 adhesive.  This takes time
    and several applications.  I tape the thing on both sides and glue
    the front and rear first.  When this has set, I remove part or all
    of the tape depending on whether it will stay flat against the
    fuse.  I then add RC56 on the sides.  After making a mess of the
    first ship with CYA, I have done two with RC56 with excellent
    results.  By the way, Tower does have RC56 in their new big
    catalog, but I am not sure whether it is in stock or not.  It
    seems to me that I saw some comments in notes about availability
    problems with the stuff.
    
    Happy Glueing,
    			Charlie
    
341.7plastic polishing stuff from Aircraft Spruce & SpecialtyTONTO::SCHRADERTue Oct 27 1987 18:1216
I don't know if it will work on the type of plastic that model
canopys are made of but Aircraft Spruce & Specialty (a supplier of
materials for homebuilt aircraft) sells something called
"poly-sand scratch remover". This is a series of cloth abrasives that
will restore the finish of plastics. I guess that the way it works is
that you progress to gradually finer grits and eventually polish the
surface. Their catalog has all sorts of nifty stuff. Tools, hardware,
fiberglass cloth, resin, etc, etc, etc. (all aircraft grade, of course).
In case anybody is interested ...

Aircraft Spruce & Specialty
210W. Truslow Ave
Fullerton, CA 92632
(800)824-1930

GES