Conference vicki::boats

    
    
    	This is a judgement type of question and everyone has different
    opinions. So here's my $0.02 worth.
    
    	I trailer mine in the down position (16.5' Steury 1979 fiberglass),
    I believe that it transfer less twisting force to the transom, as long
    as it does not hit the road while travelling ;-)....
    
    	Norm
    
    

    It is a judgement call. I've seen a number of people damage the skeg as
    the trailer bounces or going up a steep incline. I vote for the up
    position. They have trailering brackets on the engines that lock it in
    the up position, therefore I use them. That's my opinion for what it's
    worth.
    Jim

    I vote for down.  The bouncing puts a lot of strain on the transom.

I also think it's a judgement call. My 235 Johnson rides _up_ when I
trail my 24' HydraSports, primarily because the (all roller) trailer is a
drop-axle trailer to lower the profile. On the other hand, my 15 Johnson
rides _down_ on my 14.5' Sea Nymph, because the skeg is considerably
higher than the axle, and even when the (carpeted bunk-type) trailer
springs compress, the skeg is still safely high.

Those things considered, Overtons, E&B, etc. sell "transom savers" that
support your tilted engine against the trailer crossbar (provided that
your trailer crossbar is close enough to the transom). 

Hope this helps,

Art

    Actually, most of this depends on the CG of the motor.  If
    the CG is over the transom when the motor is up then it's not 
    an issue.     Try to bounce the trailer with the motor up 
    and notice if the front(tilted into the boat) and the bottom(tilted
    away from the boat) move up and down together.  If they do,
    then it's ok and it don't matter if it's up or down(it may react
    with more torque if its down).  IMO, what is more critical is that
    the motor not be allowed to bounce in either position while being
    trailered.
    
    Dale

    I recommend:
    
    - if you can tow with the engine down, and it doesn't hit the road, do
     it
    
    or if it does hit the road
    
    - put the engine up
    - wedge a large block of wood between engine and transom
    - lower the engine until it rests on the wooden block, ensuring that
      you still have ground clearance
    - tie the engine leg down to brace against the block

    I think transom savers are the way to go.  They keep the outboard from
    bouncing around and let the trailer support some of the weight.  I've
    used them on 40hp and 200hp and have been very happy with them. 
    
    -donmac

Is a transom save the same as a motor bracket ?  I think they are,
and if so, I agree.

With my boat, motor and trailer, the motor rides too low (a 65 hp)
to drive in the down position.  I looked into buying a motor bracket/ts,
but I couldn't find one long enough, so I made one.  I needed about
36" or so of length.  Since I had just made an entirely new transom at 
the time, there was no way I was taking any chances with my transom,
never mind the motor.

It was easy to make.  Started with a stock square steel tube.  One one
end, I put a V shaped rubber block used for the front end of trailers
(looks just like what's sold with transom savers), a steel bracket 
(from a trailer supply shop) to hold it on one end of the tube, and
nut bolt and a ton of washers.  The V fits the upright motor, secured
with bungy and rope.  The other end I made to fit the crossbar of the
trailer using a couple of angle brackets on the trailer, with a hole
in the tube.  It fits the brackets and is secured using a cleavis pin/bolt.

When I get to a ramp, I just remove it in about 5 seconds.

Not only is it *much* stronger than the flimsy adjustable motor bracket/ts,
but it was about half the cost.

/Ken