Conference vicki::boats

    ?? I feel like I came in at the middle, somewhere.  Is the brown slime
    referred to, in "heads" or what?  Oxalic eats iron, that's why it gets
    rid of rust so nicely. But is it o.k. for heads?
    

    Forget 538.1
     I just found out you jumped from 528.

    I am not sure what happended to Walt's original note in 528.0, but
    538.0 seems to be in the same vein...
    
    One thing I like about Slimy Grimy is that it is non-caustic. That
    means that it is NOT acid based. The directions do not require you
    to wear gloves, worry about spills, etc. And from my perspective,
    it works as if it were acid based - the slimy stuff just come right
    off!

    Hi Bill.
    My note in 528.0 was deleted by myself. Seems some aynonomus complainer
    didn't like the idea of shareing Slimy Grimy. I'm going to try the
    stuff anyway like I mentioned. I'll call you guys when I get it. Hope
    it's easier than cleaning the hull last year was.
    
                                    Walt
     

    Now i know what happened to 528 note.
    
    No i don't!!
    

    Has anyone tried everyday bleach. Thats all I use as long as the
    growth is still wet. The price is right.
    
    Steve

    Steve.
    Back in 80 while awaiting discharge from uncle sams canoe club, I
    rebuilt a fellows 48 ft mahogany cruiser for him. New hull planking,
    cabin repair and refinish all the teak (Lots of Teak!)decking. I used
    good old clorox to bleach out the deck wood and then sanded it all down
    to a fine finish. Using bleach tends to raise the grain in wood as well
    as clean it. So you had better be prepared for lots of sanding if you
    use it on your teak. Then seal the wood with a good canuba wax for
    protection. I like both the dark & light teak look , but prefer the
    dark on a white glass hull.
    
    As far as cleaning scum off the bottom goes, using bleach may help? but
    you still need to mix it with a soap of some kind and SCRUB!
    
    I guess what I'm looking for is a new fangled wizbang no work cleaner.
    
    It took me 2 hours just to clean the bottom of my 12 ft rubber raft a
    couple of weeks ago, but it did not have bottom paint on it. The boat
    should be easier as I have been scrubbing the bottom after every few
    dives this summer with a hand brush. It only takes a few min's and I
    use up any extra air in my bottles.
     
                                     Walt
    

    Now up in Maine where I do my boating, the water is so cold that
    there is hardly any growth at all, at all!
    
    When the boat is hauled and pressure washed, all there is  is a
    very thin layer of scum (1/32 to 1/16 in thick). This comes right
    off with the pressure wash. 
    
    I never have to do anything but lightly sand and then pain in the
    spring.
    
    I never have anything elso growing on the bottom.
    
    I'm sure glad that I don't have to boat in those warmer waters.
    %^)
    
    If I have any problem it the teak, lots of teak that has been
    varnished. This is now peeling and I will have to redo it also in
    the spring. I'm thinking of putting on four coats of Deks Olaj (sp)
    number 1 followed by four coats of Deks Olaj number 2.
    
    Has anyone used this product on their teak? Comments
    
    Paul

    re : .7
    
    Walt,
    
    I'm very confident that Slimy Grimy will please you when you use it on
    your rubber raft. My experience the first time opened my eyes so wide
    that I was blinded by the glare from my white hull! 8*)
    
    re : .6
    
    I don't like the idea of working with bleach - because it requires
    such delicate care - don't get it on the fabric, don't get it on
    your pants, don't .... you get the picture!
    
    Bottom line - I tried the green stuff - no good. I tried elbow grease
    on my first boat (1970 Evinrude - never cared for). to much work
    for the little improvement I saw. Then I discovered Slimy Grimy! 
    I applied it to the bottom of the 1970 Evinrude with a sponge, and
    all the slime just rinsed away! I am converted!
    
    
    
    

    
    RE:8
    
    Deks Olje (sp?) works quite well on teak - and it doesn't dry out
    and flake off like a varnish.
    
    I use the non-glossy version (can't remember if that's 1 or 2) almost
    like an oil. just apply several coats (until it stops being absorbed)
    and I'm done until it looks like it's time for more (usually several
    months go by).
    
    Plus, no need to sand between applications.
    
    (actually, I'll stop here...I sound like a paid commercial for the
    stuff).
           
    
    Mitchell
    

re .8 and .10:

I tried Deks Olje #1 once years ago. It wasn't very satisfactory and I never 
used it again. Practical Sailor was also unimpressed in their testing. I have 
yet to find a satisfactory teak oil. As a result, I am considering drastic 
measures: thoroughly cleaning and sanding all of my teak, applying multiple 
coats of epoxy (eg, System 3) until the grain is filled, and then either 
varnishing or clear Awlgripping. Based on the results of a small test (a 
varnished dorade box), maintaining epoxied/varnished teak will be less time 
consuming than maintaining oiled teak.

Gosh, boating sure is fun -- when there's time left over from maintenance!

    I also tried Deks Olje and was not please with the results and have
    never used it again. I now use Marvels Mystery Oil!!!!  I know it
    sounds crazy but ....IT WORKS!!!  The slightly redish tint to it
    that really brings out the grain and is also waterproofs the wood.
    I put it on about twice during the year....takes all of 10 minutes
    to do. The oil sinks right into the wood and leaves no residue.
    And, the best part is the a quart costs $1.89 vs. 8-9 for teak oil
    the does the same thing.  A friend of mine has also tried automatic
    transmission fluid...that works too.
    
    Frank

    
    re: < Note 538.12 by GYPSY::CISZEK >

    	Just a word of warning.... Don't get automatic transmission
    fluid on any painted surfaces as it will remove the paint in 
    short order....
    
    Rick

    I've tried a lot of different "Teak Oils" and the very best one I've
    found is "Teak Treat". I keeps a nice rich finish on the wood with a
    couple of applications a year ( the boarding ladder uses about 4 coats)
    and it does not get all over your cloths if you lean against it. This
    is a real big feature with my wife.
    
    Price is $15.99 a quart, but a little goes a long way!
    
    For my money this is the way to go.
    
                                  Walt
    
    

    Are you trying to clean the bottom of a fiberglass boat?  Around
    here the marinas charge $20 a foot to clean the bottom.  I watched
    this process as they were spraying something on the hull, scrub
    with a brush and rinse off.  Turns out it is toilet bowl cleaner
    with 15% acid.  Works good, removes slime and mineral deposits.
    Plus the price is right at four bucks a quart, enough for twenty
    feet of boat.

Has anyone used soft scrub?  Will it hurt the finish on the boat?
I have a 93 Four Winns.. and the bottom of it is dark brown!  but,
it's supposed to be white.  I tried soap & water, and simple green, and
that doesn't seem to be doing much of anything!

Thanks

I use it very carefully on tough spots.  It's an abrasive and it will scratch -
it boils down to your eyesight!  Given the gloss of gelcoat, you'll end up
giving the finish a dull look if you use it too much.

I get the grunge off with oxalic acid.  You can find it in Spag's (or equiv.)in
the paint dept.

I use two tablespoons/gallon in my garden sprayer.  Use the hottest water you
can get.

/chris

    See 1087.6 ... Zing worked wonders for me with very little effort.
    
    /Steve