Conference vicki::boats

    RE .0
    
    Did you look at the allen heads that go on a 3/8" drive ratchet,
    instead of the standard L shape? I have a several large allen heads
    like that,I got at sears, I am not sure of the exact sizes though.
    
                              Jeff
    

Jeff,
	Check your local auto parts store or hardware store.  You may
pay a little more but...

				O R

	You could look in the flea markets around. From the Marlboro area there
is one on Rt 68 in Hubbardston Ma, a couple others on Rt 101?? in Hollis NH
every Sunday.  You may not agree that these are local to Marlboro, but they are
worth the trek...

Al

    
    	If you're around Nashua, there is a place on Amherst St called
    NH Tool Outlet that certainly would have it. It's on the right
    headed toward Milford in one of the little malls.
    
    Rick

    
    
    I got stuck one time trying to remove a large sockjet head cap screw on
    a Mercedes I was repairing- it was a Sunday afternnon and at that time
    I lived in the "boonies"
    
     I found a metric bolt with a head that would fit the socket- bent the
    bolt into an "L" shape and i was in business. THe only problem is that
    the real wrenches are high strength hardened steel and the bolts are a
    little on the weak side- I'd give it a shot- all you can do is ruin a
    50� bolt!
    
    

    I found the wrench I needed at a hardware store down the road from the
    Mill in Maynard.  It cost me a $1.50.
    
    thanks to everyone for their help.
    
    tim

	It just happens to be the same size for GM disk brakes, go to
any parts store, they'll almost certainly have the cheapo L style and
the 3/8 inch socket drive type too.

	R	{GMC owner/self_maintainer}

The zinc fin on my Mercruiser outdrive is loose. It is an older stern drive, the
888 model. Do they all use the 3/8" allen wrench. I swear that I saw a regular
bolt head under one the plastic cover of on outdrive I looked at. I couldn't get
a good look at mine when I got the cover off, but I figured I just keep trying
sockets till I found one that fit. Surprise! The access hole was to small to 
allow the sockets to pass though. So that it takes an allen wrench may explain
that. 

I should have looked it up in my repair manual before I left the boat, but
forgot, and the manual is on the boat. I'd like to get the tool I need before
heading down to the Cape to save a trip. Can you help?

One other related question. When I first saw my used sterndrive installed, it
was installed without the little plastic cover that covers the access hole to
the zinc-retaining-bolt. I questioned the dealer and he said it was no big deal,
that most people have lost theirs long ago and run without it. I insisted (my
old original I/O had one) and it was there when I picked it up. When I pried
it off however I found that in order for it to stay in (either the hole is too
big or the cap was the wrong size) that they had to glue it in. As a result of
its poor fit it wouldn't stay in when I tried. So I had to leave it off. I'd
like to get one that fits, or maybe I have to glue it too, but in the meantime
is this going to cause any problems?

john

I discovered that the allen head bolt that hold my zinc fin uses a 5/16" allen
wrench. So not all Mercruisers use the 3/8" variety. I suppose that is normal
and the size you will need will depend on the size and model of outdrive you
have.

I also discovered that the little plastic cap does nothing but cover the hole to
the bolt. I am sure that having it in place will help keep all sorts of crap
from finding its way into the hole, but having the cap off can't, in my opinion,
cause any problems in normal operations since no water or exhaust passes through
that cavity.

john

    I just replaced a zinc fin on one of my Merc outdrives last weekend.
    Same problem that you are running into, it was obviously not tightened
    well enough to begin with and the vibration caused the bolt to back
    out. Mine used a 3/8 wrench, but it is relatively new. The man in the
    repair shop said this happens all the time. 
    
    before I started the job of replacing the zinc, I also asked him if he
    had any of the little snap-in caps (for over the bolt). His reply was
    as I expected, "No, don't worry. It doesn't do anything anyway."
    
    After doing the work, I would tend to agree with him. If it's not
    there, or needs to be glued in, don't worry about it.
    
    Harlan

Just a question or two. 

Did the zinc fin become loose enough to cause a noticable difference in the way
the boat handled? I ask because I first noticed hard steering, as you might
expect. Then two things happened on the last trip out� (remember every time I 
went over to the boat I thought I was giong to tighten it but either didn't have
the right tool or forgot it). Cavitation, 3000 rpm yielded only 15 MPH (yes,
I backed off to an idle-me-home speed), and toward the end of the trip a 
vibration that got worse. It was pretty loose when we got back. At first I 
blamed both problems on the fact that I hit a sandbar and figured I bent a blade
on the prop. I did�, but there weren't any bends, and even if bent the vibration
wouldn't change from slight to quite noticable.

I was upset with myself for having forgotten the wrenchs, so I went back over to
the boat at 6 AM to tight down the thing afterall, but didn't have time to take
it out for a test run. I'll find out when I go on vacation next week if I am
right or if something is screwed up, but I'd be interested if you noticed any-
thing unusual (or anyone else with similiar experience) running with a loose 
fin. (no jokes, I am a loose Swede :-)

jlg

�I had forgotten the allen wrenches I had at home but decided that since in the
past that only noticable problem with having a loose zinc fin was harder 
steering and since we were only going over to Nauset Beach that there shouldn't
be any more problem this time than the other times I headed out with a loose 
fin. 

�It wasn't a jarring, hard on the bottom hit, but one of those moments you feel
as a slight bump when you know that the outdrive scraped through some sand. And
there was no immediate symptoms immediately after the contact, it started a
little while later.

    
    	In my opinion this was a poor design by Mercury for two reasons. 
    	First the "FIN" is used to trim the steering, by adjusting the fin
    	it can reduce pull on the steering wheel, if you've wonder why your
    	steering wheel pulls harder to the right or left it's do to the
    	adjustment to the "FIN". Secondly Mercury uses it as an "Anode". So
    	if your in salt water this will slowly disappear, thus making it 
    	harder to steer. On other outdrives, they use a horse-shoe shape
    	anode and/or a zinc block.
    	If the "Fin" does nothing then why is it there?
    
    
    	my .02
    
    	Mike

    Make sure the fin (trim tab) if tight.  Last year I had one loosen up
    and didn't tighten it right away.  It fell off and put a good nick in
    the prop on its way by.  Cost me $55 to get the prop reconditioned plus
    the cost of a new zinc.
    
    Gordon
    

    re .-1...same thing happened to me.
    
    

Well, when I returned to the boat and took it out for a test run both symptoms
had disappeared - the vibration and cavitation. The loose zinc trim fin was 
responsible for both. So now I had no problems right? Of course not. In all my
pride and confidence I took some guests out. On the way back noticed a problem.
Lifted the outdrive and discovered, zinc gone, and, yes, a chip in a blade. So
much for the perfect day.

I had tighted it, and it was tighter than it had been for the last four outings,
but managed to fall off on this one. I think that the slight overlap of the 
Dole-fin on its base had held it on and when that area wore through (due to 
loose fin rubbing) it allowed it to fall off. New fin. My allen was a regular
L shaped job, and you have to stick the long end in in order to reach the bolt
head, given you only the short end for leverage. Figuring that that didn't allow
me to tighten it enough I used my prop wrench, which was out anyway :-( , as an
"torque extender" and found that I could tighten it a good � turn more. Seems to
be staying on now.

john

    I'm not sure if this is in the correct  note, but it's close.  
    
    I bought a new 150hp Mariner outboard for my boat this past summer not
    by choice but necessity.  The problem is that when I raise the engine
    out ot the water, the mounting bracket is still in the the water. 
    Since the zinc trim tab is out of the water I am worried galvanic
    corrosion.  I have a couple pieces of zinc connected to wire and
    clamped to the engine which I remove before starting the engine.
    
    I would like to have something permanent and still raise the engine out
    of the water.  I was thinking of bolting a piece of zinc to the
    engine mounting bracket.
    
    Does anyone have any ideas?  I really don't want to drill holes in the
    bracket if I can help it.
    
    I leave the boat in the water all summer and would like to keep the
    engine out as much as possible (creatures living on it, crud, etc.)
    
    Thanks in advance for your response and Ideas.
    
    Gordon
     

      You don't HAVE to bolt the zinc to the bracket, but the zinc must
    have an EXCELLENT *electrical* connection to the part(s) you wish
    to protect.
    
       You do not need a big zinc, but the smaller it is, the more often
    it will have to be replaced.
    
      You may not want to drill holes in the bracket, but it is undoubtedly
    the best way to protect the bracket. Maybe a 1/4 or 5/16 hole that's
    tapped for an appropriate Stainless bolt to hold the zinc on. 
    
       Just remember, the zinc does NOT have to be attached directly
    to the part you want to protect, but it must have *perfect* electrical
    contact with it (that means bare metal to bare metal somewhere)
    AND the zinc must have a good electrical connection with the water.
    THat means that must NOT paint the zinc.
    
      Using the zinc with the wire attached to the engine somewhere
    works fine but, as you found out, is a pain.
    
    				Kenny

    After a close examination of the bracket while winterizing the
    boat/motor I discovered that the bracket does have a zinc attached to
    it.  I guess all that worring was for nothing.  Thanks for your help.
    
    Gordon