Conference unifix::sailing

    How about varnish? A good 3 coat varnish job with fine sanding
    between coats will last for ever, provided the varnish does not
    get chipped during use. Use a high quality UV resistant varnish
    for exposed finish.
    
    /Dimitri
    

    	
    	3 coats of varnish last forever? EEEyow what brand is that? I'll
    	take a 50 gallon drum!!
    
    	Seriously, you will have to seal it with something since you have 
    	that wood-putty on it; oil won't be enough. UV is apparently the 
    	big killer; it eats our wood, gelcoat, dacron, clear mylar, rods
    	and cones. Bob Murray owns/runs Hingham Boat works, and I admire
    	his woodwork. Anyway, he puts a few coats of West over the wood as
    	a sealer, then a few + coats of varnish with UV inhibitor in it, 
    	so the epoxy won't dry and crack so soon. I think I saw a can of
    	varnish made by the International Paint folks- not cheap I'm sure.
    
    	Anyway, I like the sound of `toughening-up' the wood with epoxy;
    	this may keep water out longer. Over that, varnish or paint,
    	whatever will look better.
    
    	Well, grab some bronze wool and develop that upper-body strength!
    	
    	Scott.

    Re : .2
    
    I stand corrected. "For ever" is somewhat of an overstatement. What
    I meant is that it will give you a couple of seasons between light
    maintenance. With such a regime it will indeed last for ever.
    
    Sealing with epoxy is certainly going to improve the protection of
    the wood. However, there is a real danger of the varnish pealing
    off the epoxy if not done properly. The uv resistance of the final
    coat, whatever it is, is a must for exposed surfaces.
    
    /Dimitri

    We had several pieces of plywood that were exposed to the elements
    which we successfully refinished with a lasting results.  After taking
    the existing varnish off right down to the bare wood, we applied a
    sanding sealer (just like Norm!).  Over this went 3 or more coats
    of quality varnish.  The varnish adhered real well.  So well in fact,
    the areas we did this way we did not have to refinish the following
    season.  
    
    Brian

    
    Sanding sealer, like from the normal-priced hardware store? I like the
    sound of that... 
    
    Another avenue- I have teak strips (raised- sorta bolted onto) on the
    cockpit seats. Practical Sailor said, a few issues back, either do a
    good, complete varnish job or just lightly sand every year. Varnish is
    out; human bumper cars make no sense, and oi would probably suck right
    out of the wood, into the jeans. Any other teak-sitters out there? I'm
    tempted to just let `em go, but part of me says that's too easy...
    Any input?
    
    Scott.

    Yup, that's right.  Sanding sealer right from the hardware store.  Same
    as Norm uses on the New Yankee Workshop.  Seemed to work out fine.  

    I have had excellent results with DEKS OLE on the teak cockpit coming
    and floor boards on my Rhodes 19.  The nice thing about it is the
    quality of the finish and the ease of maintenance.  If you only want a
    matte finish apply successive coats of #1 until it will absorb no more. 
    Gloss finish is achieved by subsequent use of #2.  If it gets scuffed
    or faded varnish is nearly impossible to get looking nice again without
    lots of work.  With DEKS OLE wood in bad condition can be rejuvinated
    with DEK RINS + light steel wool -> flush with water, dry and put on
    more.  Year after year.  No real noticable build up and after dry it
    looks nearly as nice as varnish. 
    
    

    I just got done stripping the paint off my leeboards the other night.
    I was intending to varish the suckers, but I noticed that the marine
    catalogs now carry a water based polyurathane (z-spar I believe).
    
    Having used water based polyurathane in the house, I know this stuff is
    tough as nails indoors and a peice of cake to apply compared to varish 
    (Cheaper too as you can use foam brushes). But has anyone used this
    stuff outside? I am wondering if the standard stuff from a hardware
    store will do the job, or are there UV blocks in the "marine" stuff.
    
    john
    
    john

    I tried water-based Z Spar on my table (interior) and was unable to get
    it to penetrate the wood as an oil based varnish would have.   The effect 
    was one of incomplete coverage, slightly white-ish look.   I suspect that
    the old finish had found a home and was not goin to be removed!!  
    On new wood, life was a lot easier and the finish was uniform.   I would
    be cautious on older wood that was previously finish, probably a good
    place for a test spot.   Clean up was a snap!!
    
    Good luck,
    
    Lee