Conference unifix::sailing

    
    rer: 1172.0
    
    Brian:  Be very careful at this point.  Whether you use epoxies,
    glues (waterproof) or sealers depends upon whether you have veneers
    or solid wood, flexing, wood expansion, etc.  If you would like,
    feel free to give me a call on 282-1669.  I do not profess to be
    an expert, but I have had to do a lot of wood work, from my wood
    boat days through to today's fiberglass boats with wood trim.    
    

    There is not a lot of information in the base note but here are
    some suggestions anyway (you'll want to disregard any thing that
    is based on bad assumption on my part).
    
    First, give some real thought to why the original split ocurred.
    Make sure the underlying reason is not being overlooked or it will
    split again for sure and take more wood with it.
    
    Do not under any circumstances use 'ordinary' carpenter's glue.
    I assume you mean the yellow glue like Elmer's Glue.  It won't survive
    humidity of a boat never mind getting soaked like hatches are prone
    to do.
    
    From your wording it sounds like you have routed a "cavity" which
    I assume to be not all the way through the hatch.  This will take
    an inlay of exactly the dimensions that you routed.  If you inlay
    this cavity flush with the existing material I would think epoxy
    would be suitable.   Epoxy is best for most woodworkers because it 
    doesn't require precise fit nor does it require heavy clamping.
    An alternative, resorcinal, requires precision fit and high pressure
    to be succesful.
    
    You could use a flexible adhesive/caulk but with these you have
    to be careful of compatability with the chosen finish.  5200 is
    not compatible, and will lose strength in contact with, some varnishes
    and wood sealing oils.
    
        

    
    The advice in reply .2 is sound advice concerning glues.  
    
    	I'm curious though, if you routed out teak, why do you want
    to inlay mahogany?  Why not inlay another piece of teal?  Different
    woods expand and contract at different rates, so mixing wood where
    so much flexing goes on is something you may want to consider. 
    If you seal the entire hatch, it may not matter.  Also, ask yourself
    what will it look like with two kinds of wood?  If you are a good
    woodworker, the glue lines should be thin hairlines, and not distract
    from the apopearance.
    
    	The other good advice was to find out why it cracked.  Look
    for impact dents, unfinished surfaces which let moisture in, stress
    from mot being properly framed, etc.  You may not ever find out
    why it cracked, so don't be disappointed if you don't.  Do a good
    repair job, otherwise, you'll be back to fix it again.
                     
    Eric

The hatch itself is constructed of solid teak slats approx. 1"thick 
and varying widths.  There are teak slats attached perpendicular to the 
grain of the main part of the hatch to prevent warpage as illustrated below.  
The hatch is slightly curved side to side to allow for runoff.  The whole 
hatch is also supported from underneath by at least two pieces running 
parallel to the end pieces for greater rigidity.  Needless to say it is 
a heavy hatch.

    	      REAR	
    _________________________
    |			    | <---- end piece not affected	
    ------------------------- <---- material removed to this line
    |	|   |	|  |	|   |
    |	|   |	>  |	|   |
    |	|   |	|  |	|   |
    |	|   |	<  |	|   | <---- main part of hatch  
    |	|   |	|  |	|   | 
    |	|   |	>  |	|   |
    |	|   |	|  |	|   |
    |	|   |	<  |	|   |
    ------------------------- <----- material removed to this line
    |=======================| <----- handle attached here
    -------------------------	

    	     FRONT
    |
    <
    | <---line where hatch is cracked. Material removed from 
    >	  either side including cracked area.

The reason we selected mahogany is simple.  That's what my partner had on 
hand.  We are not locked into the selection for any other reason.  In fitting 
the piece in, we thought the contrast in woods was attractive.  Didn't even 
think about the different expansion coefficients.  This we will rediscuss. 
We have routed a cavity out the length of the hatch between the two end 
pieces approx. 5/8" deep.  The crack itself is not that large, but it is 
noticeable. 

We intend to inlay the chosen piece (could be teak at this point) flush with 
the rest of the hatch to make it as insivible as possible.  We are shooting 
for a tight fitalong the length of the repair.  From the recommendations, we 
will probably go with epoxy.  

We cannot figure out why the piece cracked in the first place as there are 
no obvious impact marks.  The hatch is not subject to great stress either 
since it is not really part of any structure.  It is not real convenient to 
stand on either except occasionally.  Being 20 years old, I think it just 
separated along a glue line after many years of expansion and contraction, 
weather etc.
 
Thanks for the advice, will post results here after the weekend.

Brian

Well, the operation was a success.  I cleaned out the hole real well with my 
chisel to square off the corners and laid the piece in.  I had to plane the 
piece to almost the correct thickness prior to laying it in to reduce the 
amount of sanding necessary.  I bedded the piece in with West epoxy making 
sure the crack was filled in real well.  I had to leave it until Monday 
because of the rain in Rhode Island Saturday and Sunday.  It fit real well, 
the joints came out almost invisible after sanding smooth.  With any amount of 
luck, it will hold for a good long time.  Now if only I could wish the bottom 
to be scraped clean....

    You can certainly wish...
    
    How much good that will do is another matter...
    
    ;)